CN104611800A - High-count combed camel hair woven yarn - Google Patents
High-count combed camel hair woven yarn Download PDFInfo
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- CN104611800A CN104611800A CN201510049767.8A CN201510049767A CN104611800A CN 104611800 A CN104611800 A CN 104611800A CN 201510049767 A CN201510049767 A CN 201510049767A CN 104611800 A CN104611800 A CN 104611800A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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Abstract
The invention relates to high-count combed camel hair woven yarn. The high-count combed camel hair woven yarn is formed by blending 50% of camel hair fiber and 50% of water-soluble vinylon fiber, wherein the metric count of actually-spun yarn is 100 Nm/2, the metric count of vinylon-dissolved yarn is 200 Nm/2, the single yarn twist coefficient is 105, and the doubled yarn twist coefficient is 87. A manufacturing method of the yarn includes the steps that oiling and life preserving are conducted on camel hair fiber and pile, combed camel hair strips are formed through the carding procedure, the gilling procedure, the combing procedure and the gilling procedure, the camel hair strips are mixed, oiling and life preserving are conducted on the mixed strips, and drawing silver suitable for spinning production is manufactured after the strips and 50% of vinylon strips are mixed, combined and combed; the camel hair and vinylon fiber blended yarn is manufactured through the other seven procedures of pre-spinning, the spun yarn procedure, the spooling procedure, the doubling procedure, the two-for-one twisting procedure, a product is formed by the yarn through beaming and weaving, and the high-count combed camel hair woven yarn is obtained after water-soluble vinylon fiber is dissolved and removed in the normal washing and contracting process. The input-output ratio of the produced vinylon-treated high-count camel hair blended woven yarn is higher than that of normal pure camel hair yarn, and fabric is lighter and thinner.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, particularly an a kind of high combing camel's hair weaving yarn.
Background technology
Camel's hair is the abbreviation of camel hair, and camel's hair is the fine hair taking from camel belly, and, soft fluffy apricot yellow through point camel's hair color and luster that comb is made is one of important source material making high-grade wool textile.The feature of camel's hair is: matte is plentiful, attractive in appearance, and quality is soft, high resilience, and feel is abundant, and bright in colour, warmth retention property is good, laterally, longitudinally all has larger retractility, and warp-wise extends can reach 30 ~ 45%, and broadwise extends can reach 60 ~ 85%.But its limits throughput, a peak camel can only produce the clean suede of 0.3 kilogram, relatively more precious than goat cashmere.
Camel wool fiber is animal protein fiber, and surface is made up of scale layer and cortical layer closely, and fiber is very thin, below average fineness 20um; Between length 40mm ~ 135mm, average length is about 60mm.Camel's hair contains native protein composition, not easily produces electrostatic, not easily inhales dust, to the non-stimulated allergic phenomena of skin.Camel wool fiber is hollow form structure, is conducive to the storage of air, is cold-resistant the strongest in animal suede, very desirable natural cold defense and health care product.
Based on the characteristic of camel wool fiber, be applied in carded spinning engineering as textile raw material, its product is carded camel hair yarn and end product camel's hair sweater and woven camel's hair scarf, tippet, flannelette blanket etc., and added value of product is relatively low more.In recent years, along with the development of textile technology technology, camel wool fiber is widely used in, in combing spinning engineering, achieving the highly-branched of camel hair yarn.Combing camel hair yarn is widely used in knitting and woven engineering, and end product is spinning camel's hair sweater, woven spinning camel's hair scarf, tippet.Due to shift in product mix, added value of product significantly promotes.Soluble polyvinylalcohol is utilized to accompany the camel's hair product spinning and produce a high light and thin type, on the basis of existing high-quality camel's hair raw material, add polyvinyl companion in spinning process to spin, breach the problem that yarn cross section number of fiber does not reach requirement, turn improve the spinning property of yarn; The research and development of polyvinyl companion spinning technique and application, have good development prospect in Down Fiber spinning engineering.Notification number be CN 103437014 A patent discloses one " the ultra-fine spinning camel hair yarn of 160Nm and manufacture method thereof ", be that the polyvinyl of 50% and the camel's hair of 50% produce the ultra-fine camel hair yarn of 160Nm by tatting method by mass percent, in fact spinning number is 80Nm/2, through moving back after dimension removes polyvinyl alcohol fibre, realize the ultra-fine spinning camel hair yarn of 160Nm/2, this camel's hair spins and has given full play to natural camel wool fiber fluffy insulation, gloss is soft, the feature that matte is plentiful, although meet the primary demand of people to camel hair cloth, but, for making fabric more lightening, in the urgent need to developing the higher camel hair yarn of number.
Summary of the invention
The height of a kind of 200 public is the object of the present invention is to provide to prop up combing camel's hair weaving yarn and manufacture method thereof.
Technical scheme taked for achieving the above object is:
An a kind of high combing camel's hair weaving yarn, be that the camel wool fiber of 50% and the soluble vinylon fiber blending of 50% form by mass percent, real yarn metric count 100Nm/2, moves back yarn metric count 200Nm/2 after dimension, single twist multiplier 105, stock yarn twist factor 87;
Described height props up the manufacture method of combing camel's hair weaving yarn, at wool blending step by camel wool fiber and hair, oiling, health, makes combing camel's hair bar through carding, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, combing, four road grillings, finisher gilling; Combing camel's hair bar is premenstrual spins silver mixing 1 operation mixing oiling health; Premenstrually spin silver mixing 2 operation, be the combing camel's hair bar of 50% and the polyvinyl bar of 50% by mass percent and close the ripe bar being carded to applicable Spinning process; Ripe bar is premenstrual spins other 7 procedure, spinning process makes single thread; Again successively through winder, doubling, be doubly twisted into camel's hair and polyvinyl alcohol fibre blended yarn, yarn through warping, weave and make goods, dissolve removing soluble vinylon fiber and obtain high combing camel's hair weaving yarn and manufactured goods normally washing in compression process;
Spin before described and comprise silver mixing 1, silver mixing 2, scalp acupuncture 1, scalp acupuncture 2, scalp acupuncture 3, two pin, four pin 1, four pins 2, rove 9 procedure;
Described camel wool fiber length is 40 ~ 46mm, and fineness is 14.5 ~ 15 μm; Described polyvinyl alcohol fibre is water soluble vinylon bar, and solution temperature is 40 DEG C, and length is 75mm, and fineness is 1.5D, and single fiber does fracture strength: >=4cN/dtex;
It is total inventory 1.0% environment-friendly type wool lubricant CTA-1880C and 0.8% environmental protection type antistatic agent FK-305 that described wool blending step camel wool fiber applies weight, and the raw material after oil supply deposits that health makes raw material oil-containing for 24 hours, moisture regain reaches confidential and asks;
It is total inventory 1.3% environment-friendly type wool lubricant CTA-1880C and 0.8% environmental protection type antistatic agent FK-305 that described combing camel's hair bar applies weight in silver mixing 1 operation, raw material after oil supply deposits health 12 hours, guarantee that ripe bar mixes, fibers parallel is straight, is organized into the ripe bar of applicable Spinning process;
Described fore-spinning adopts 6#, 7#, 8# needle plate to carry out drawing-off combing, select and there is certain degree of hardness, elasticity is high, ABRASION RESISTANCE good and has the special roller of better antistatic property, reduce lap waste, workshop condition requires temperature 24 ± 2 DEG C, relative humidity 70 ± 5%, spins the uniformity that bar is dry before effectively controlling;
Described spinning process selects Italian high Supreme Being's promise fine spining machine, and strengthen reel cage air pressure 5bar, drafting multiple controls at 19 ~ 22 times, twist factor 105, Z twist with the fingers to, 31# steel wire hook, ingot speed 7200rpm, middle spacing block, thousand ingot end breakage rates 25 pieces/hour;
Described double twisting operation twist factor 87, the upper machine twist 618 is twisted with the fingers, and twists with the fingers to S, winding angle 18 ° 41 ', tension knob 5, and ingot speed 30HZ, selects small size tension force bullet, the speed of a motor vehicle 6000 ~ 7000rpm.
Height of the present invention props up combing camel's hair weaving yarn, and adopt polyvinyl companion spinning technique to produce, technique is roughly identical with normal kind, and difference is:
1, polyvinyl alcohol fibre does not need dyeing.Remove because polyvinyl moves back dimension in Final finishing process, so do not need dyeing.Do not have dyed polyvinyl in the Final finishing process of non-openpore fabric, it can also be seen that the degree removed.
2, do not need yarn steaming, in order to avoid damp and hot violent contraction met by polyvinyl in yarn steaming process, be unfavorable for the production of later process.
Advantage applies of the present invention is in the following aspects:
1, polyvinyl of the present invention companion spins a high camel's hair blended woven fabric yarn, and to spin camel hair yarn input-output ratio high than normally pure, and yarn limit count increases substantially; Companion's yarn moves back after dimension removes polyvinyl, and weight saving, alleviating degree is pure 0.45 ~ 0.6 times of spinning camel's hair product, makes fabric more lightening.
2, polyvinyl companion of the present invention spins a high camel's hair blended woven fabric yarn, adopts combing cashmere yarn production line equipment ripe at present to produce, does not need introducing equipment or carry out scrap build.
3, polyvinyl companion of the present invention spins a high camel's hair blended woven fabric yarn making process, improves the brute force of fiber, adds the spinnability of yarn; The basis of not improving camel's hair quality decreases and comprehensively uses suede amount, effectively save material, greatly reduce production cost.
The camel's hair raw material of 4, the present invention high-quality, advanced polyvinyl companion spinning technique produce 200 public Zhi Gaozhi combing camel's hair weaving yarns, compensate for the blank of a spinning device fabrication height like product, drastically increase class and the value-added content of product of product, for manufacturing enterprise opens new market, create considerable economic benefit and social benefit.
Detailed description of the invention
Raw material: 40mm camel wool fiber 50%, 75mm polyvinyl bar 50%
(1) bar processed
Combing camel's hair is through wool blending step, make raw material oil-containing, moisture regain reaches confidential and ask, the formula adopted is total inventory 1.0% environment-friendly type wool lubricant CTA-1880C and 0.8% environmental protection type antistatic agent FK-305, health in 24 hours deposited by raw material after oil supply, and profit is fully permeated evenly for machine on combing machine for fur; Carding and grilling want rational allocation combing machine for fur speed ratio and gill box roller gauge in machine process, configures suitable drafting multiple, reduce fibre damage (little drawing-off, close setting, the low speed of a motor vehicle).Combing camel's hair bar bar each procedure technology parameter is as shown in table 1, and combing camel's hair bar index is as shown in table 2.
The each procedure technology parameter list of table 1 combing camel's hair bar bar
Table 2 combing camel's hair bar index table
Shaping weight | Average length | 20mm short fiber content | Regularity | Fineness | Containing rough and careless |
19g/m | 46.42mm | 74.71% | 69.81% | 17.51um | 0.48% |
(2) frontly to spin
Before spin and comprise silver mixing 1 (refueling water), silver mixing 2, scalp acupuncture 1, scalp acupuncture 2, scalp acupuncture 3, two pin, four pin 1, four pins 2, rove 9 procedure.
Combing camel's hair bar arranges refueling water by front spinning silver mixing 1 operation.The formula adopted is total inventory 1.3% environment-friendly type wool lubricant CTA-1880C and 0.8% environmental protection type antistatic agent FK-305, and the raw material after oil supply deposits health 12 hours; Premenstrually spin silver mixing 2 operation, be the combing camel's hair bar (after health) of 50% and the polyvinyl bar of 50% by mass percent and close the ripe bar being carded to applicable Spinning process; Guarantee to mix, fibers parallel is straight.
Before spin in each operation, needle plate model adopts 6#, 7#, 8# needle plate to carry out drawing-off combing; Select and there is certain degree of hardness, elasticity is high, ABRASION RESISTANCE good and has the special roller of better antistatic property, reduce lap waste.Technological equipment selects French NSC gill box, Italian Szentendre four pin and Speed frames, and card room's ambient temperature and humidity also will strictly control simultaneously, temperature 24 ± 2 DEG C, relative humidity 70 ± 5%, spins the uniformity that bar is dry before effectively controlling.Before to spin each procedure technology parameter as shown in table 3, the thick Yarn Evenness leading indicator that each operation is made is as shown in table 4.
Each procedure technology parameter is spun before table 3
The thick Yarn Evenness leading indicator of table 4
(3) spun yarn
In order to improve yarn quality, improving bar and doing, reducing yarn defect, especially bead and suede grain, technological equipment selects Italian high Supreme Being's promise fine spining machine, strengthens reel cage air pressure 5bar, drafting multiple controls at 19 ~ 22 times, twist factor 105 (1049 twist with the fingers), Z twist with the fingers to, 31# steel wire hook, ingot speed 7200rpm, middle spacing block, the low speed of a motor vehicle, filoplume, slubbing are few, and life is stable, thousand ingot end breakage rates 25 pieces/hour.Spinning evenness index is as shown in table 5.
Table 5 spinning evenness index
CV% | Details-50% | Slubbing+50% | Cotton knot+200% | Powerful CN | Percentage elongation % |
21.52 | 662 | 288 | 73 | 89.9 | 13.75 |
(4) winder
Setting passage N6.0, DS2.4, LS1.5, DL1.3, LL50 ,-D35 ,-L60, fixed length 800 grams/tin.
(5) doubling
Setting combined roots 2, tension piece 1 ~ 2,25HZ ingot speed, fixed length 800 grams/tin.
(6) double twisting
Double twisting twist factor 87, the upper machine twist 618 is twisted with the fingers, and selects high lay coefficient to improve yarn strength, reduces broken end.Two-for-one twister is twisted with the fingers to being S, winding angle 18 ° 41 ', and ingot speed is set to 30HZ, because yarn count is higher, double twisting tension force is not easily excessive, tension knob 5, selects small size tension force bullet, the speed of a motor vehicle 6000 ~ 7000rpm, reduce Yarn break, use air splicer joint after broken end, guarantee resultant yarn kilometer without junction.Income share Yarn Evenness index is as shown in table 6.
Table 6 burst Yarn Evenness index
CV% | Details-50% | Slubbing+50% | Cotton knot+200% | Powerful CN | Percentage elongation % |
15.29 | 359 | 103 | 28 | 166.1 | 13.31 |
The technical indicator of finished yarn:
Yam count: 100Nm/2 (moving back the rear yam count 200Nm/2 of dimension)
Percentage of count deviation: ± 4.5% percentage of twist deviation: ± 5%
Twist Unevenness: ± 10% yarn fibers content: 100%
Yarn oil and fat content: 1.2 ~ 1.5% single thread strip dry CV values: 21%.
Claims (9)
1. one kind high combing camel's hair weaving yarn, be that the camel wool fiber of 50% and the soluble vinylon fiber blending of 50% form by mass percent, real yarn metric count 100Nm/2, moves back yarn metric count 200Nm/2 after dimension, single twist multiplier 105, stock yarn twist factor 87.
2. a height according to claim 1 props up the manufacture method of combing camel's hair weaving yarn, it is characterized in that: at wool blending step by camel wool fiber and hair, oiling, health, make combing camel's hair bar through carding, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, combing, four road grillings, finisher gilling; Combing camel's hair bar is premenstrual spins silver mixing 1 operation mixing oiling health; Premenstrually spin silver mixing 2 operation, be the combing camel's hair bar of 50% and the polyvinyl bar of 50% by mass percent and close the ripe bar being carded to applicable Spinning process; Ripe bar is premenstrual spins other 7 procedure, spinning process makes single thread; Again successively through winder, doubling, be doubly twisted into camel's hair and polyvinyl alcohol fibre blended yarn, yarn through warping, weave and make goods, dissolve removing soluble vinylon fiber and obtain high combing camel's hair weaving yarn and manufactured goods normally washing in compression process.
3. manufacture method according to claim 2, is characterized in that: spin before described and comprise silver mixing 1, silver mixing 2, scalp acupuncture 1, scalp acupuncture 2, scalp acupuncture 3, two pin, four pin 1, four pins 2, rove 9 procedure.
4. height according to claim 1 props up combing camel's hair weaving yarn, it is characterized in that: described camel wool fiber length is 40 ~ 46mm, and fineness is 14.5 ~ 15 μm; Described polyvinyl alcohol fibre is water soluble vinylon bar, and solution temperature is 40 DEG C, and length is 75mm, and fineness is 1.5D, and single fiber does fracture strength: >=4cN/dtex.
5. manufacture method according to claim 2, it is characterized in that: it is total inventory 1.0% environment-friendly type wool lubricant CTA-1880C and 0.8% environmental protection type antistatic agent FK-305 that described wool blending step camel wool fiber applies weight, the raw material after oil supply deposits that health makes raw material oil-containing for 24 hours, moisture regain reaches confidential and asks.
6. manufacture method according to claim 2, it is characterized in that: it is total inventory 1.3% environment-friendly type wool lubricant CTA-1880C and 0.8% environmental protection type antistatic agent FK-305 that described combing camel's hair bar applies weight in silver mixing 1 operation, raw material after oil supply deposits health 12 hours, guarantee that ripe bar mixes, fibers parallel is straight, is organized into the ripe bar of applicable Spinning process.
7. manufacture method according to claim 2, it is characterized in that: described fore-spinning adopts 6#, 7#, 8# needle plate to carry out drawing-off combing, select and there is certain degree of hardness, elasticity is high, ABRASION RESISTANCE good and has the special roller of better antistatic property, reduce lap waste, workshop condition requires temperature 24 ± 2 DEG C, relative humidity 70 ± 5%, spins the uniformity that bar is dry before effectively controlling.
8. manufacture method according to claim 2, it is characterized in that: described spinning process selects Italian high Supreme Being's promise fine spining machine, strengthen reel cage air pressure 5bar, drafting multiple controls at 19 ~ 22 times, twist factor 105, Z twist with the fingers to, 31# steel wire hook, ingot speed 7200rpm, middle spacing block, thousand ingot end breakage rates 25 pieces/hour.
9. manufacture method according to claim 2, is characterized in that: described double twisting operation twist factor 87, and the upper machine twist 618 is twisted with the fingers, and twists with the fingers to S, winding angle 18 ° 41 ', tension knob 5, and ingot speed 30HZ, selects small size tension force bullet, the speed of a motor vehicle 6000 ~ 7000rpm.
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Cited By (5)
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CN105926090A (en) * | 2016-06-17 | 2016-09-07 | 保定鹿王毛纺有限公司 | Large package non-joint yarn production line |
CN108728961A (en) * | 2018-06-13 | 2018-11-02 | 内蒙古新力纺织科技股份有限公司 | A kind of cashmere water soluble fiber mixing spinning method for genuine |
CN110004543A (en) * | 2019-03-22 | 2019-07-12 | 江苏中孚达科技股份有限公司 | A kind of high Zhi Chunniu hair yarn production technology |
CN110029414A (en) * | 2019-03-29 | 2019-07-19 | 江苏中孚达科技股份有限公司 | A kind of production technology of camel's hair anti-bacterial blended yarn |
CN111876870A (en) * | 2020-07-14 | 2020-11-03 | 江苏申洲毛纺有限公司 | Soluble triacetate fiber companion spinning technology |
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CN110029414A (en) * | 2019-03-29 | 2019-07-19 | 江苏中孚达科技股份有限公司 | A kind of production technology of camel's hair anti-bacterial blended yarn |
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CN111876870A (en) * | 2020-07-14 | 2020-11-03 | 江苏申洲毛纺有限公司 | Soluble triacetate fiber companion spinning technology |
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