CN101962850B - Production method of moisture-absorbing and sweat-discharging fabric - Google Patents

Production method of moisture-absorbing and sweat-discharging fabric Download PDF

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CN101962850B
CN101962850B CN2010102517349A CN201010251734A CN101962850B CN 101962850 B CN101962850 B CN 101962850B CN 2010102517349 A CN2010102517349 A CN 2010102517349A CN 201010251734 A CN201010251734 A CN 201010251734A CN 101962850 B CN101962850 B CN 101962850B
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yarn
speed
cotton
moisture
absorbing
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CN2010102517349A
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CN101962850A (en
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谭徽
刘望清
陈益人
陈传谥
鲁利斌
刘渊明
余胜
张国群
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际华三五零九纺织有限公司
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Abstract

The invention relates to a production method of a moisture-absorbing and sweat-discharging fabric. In the method, the moisture-absorbing and sweat-discharging fabric is produced by using 80 percent of honeycomb moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fibers and 20 percent of cotton fibers as coating fibers and 20D common polyester filaments as core yarns. The method comprises the following steps: subjecting moisture-absorbing and sweat-discharging fibers to cotton opening and cleaning, cotton carding and primary combination, subjecting cotton fibers to cotton opening and cleaning, cotton carding and fine carding, and combining the moisture-absorbing and sweat-discharging fibers and cotton fibers primarily; combining secondarily; spinning a coarse yarn; spinning a fine yarn; winding single yarn; twisting; yarn strand winding; and producing T/JC80/20(60s+20D) single yarnbs and T/JC80/20(60S+20D)/2 yarn stands, wherein the breaking strengths of the single yarn and the yarn strand are 18.4cN/tex and 20.5cN/tex respectively, the strength CV values of the single yarn and the yarn strand are 10.5 percent and 6.4 percent respectively, the lowest strength of the single yarn and the yarn strandare 148cN and 361cN respectively, and the yarn levelness of the T/JC80/20(60S+20D) single yarn is 14.0 percent; and weaving the yarn and yarn stand by warping, sizing, denting, weaving, finishing andproducing a T/JC80/20(60s+20D)/2*T/JC80/20(60s+20D)/2 76*71 70.5''1/1. In the invention, the fabric produced by reasonable cotton cleaning and carding processes and proper sizing and weaving processes and by combining two combined yarns has high moisture-absorbing and rapid-drying effects and offers an excellent skinny effect.

Description

A kind of production method of moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of production method of moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining.
Background technology
Along with improving constantly of living standards of the people; People require increasingly high to comfortableness, health, security and the feature of environmental protection etc. of garment material; Following clothing will develop towards comfortable, healthy direction with fabric, and moisture absorbing and sweat releasing and related functionality textiles will become a main trend of future market consumption.
As everyone knows, natural fabric is example with the cotton, and its moisture pick-up properties is good; Comfortable and easy to wear, but when people's volume of perspiration was big slightly, cotton fiber can be because of moisture expantion; Its gas permeability descends and sticks on the skin, and the moisture content divergence speed is also slower simultaneously, thereby causes a kind of cold wet sense to human body; Synthetic fiber are example with the terylene, and its water imbibition is little, and water vapour permeability is poor, cause the trouble that generation is tangled when wearing easily owing to its accumulation of static electricity, especially when activity, are easy to generate feeling of oppression and heat.Hygroscopic fibre is that the capillarity of utilizing fiber surface minute groove and inner hole etc. to produce makes sweat through effects such as wicking, diffusion, transmission; Migrate to rapidly fabric the surface and disperse; It can be volatilized fast, thereby keep the dry feeling of human body skin.Simultaneously, when moisture state, can as cotton fiber, not lodge yet, can remain micro climate state comfortable between fabric and skin, reach the purpose that improves comfortableness.
And the lining with moisture absorption sweat discharging functions such as the Cooldry that develop in the market; Cooplus etc.; Because its polyster fibre cross section of selecting for use is cross structure, the groove of fibre section is rule, and the capillary effect is not fairly obvious; Lining functional has certain limitation, and the effect of moisture absorbing and sweat releasing can not further satisfy takes requirement.
The great strong honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber in Zhejiang is because the honeycomb microporous structure state that fiber runs through inside and outside being; Specific area is big; Micropore in the fiber and micropore are to connect each other; And with atmosphere, so it has good capillary wicking principle---inhale soon, loose soon, do real soon hydroscopic fast-drying function.Simultaneously because added the flexible factor in the fiber,, and have good resilience, crease-resistant easy-care properties so the lining flexibility of being processed by this fiber is splendid.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to above-mentioned present situation, aim to provide a kind of production method that good moisture absorption is done the effect and the moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining of better bony soon that has.
The implementation of the object of the invention does, the production method of moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining is done covered fiber with 80% honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber and 20% cotton fiber, and 20D is common, and the long filament of washing is that heart yarn is produced T/JC80/20 (60 S+ 20D)/2 * T/JC80/20 (60 S+ 20D)/276 * 71 70.5 " and 1/1 moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining, concrete steps are following:
One, spinning is produced, and its concrete steps are following:
1) opening picking of cotton fiber, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, combing,
2) opening picking of honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, in advance also,
1. opening and cleaning step
Grab cotton hired roughneck's speed 880r/min, running efficiency is more than 90%, and kirschner beater speed is 380r/min, the comprehensive hired roughneck's speed of rolling 850r/min, and the dirt rod that respectively falls to mixing spaces and is transferred to minimum, cotton rolling quantity 382g/m, length 36m, lap elongation<1.5%,
2. carding step
Cylinder speed 290r/min, licker-in speed 780r/min, doffer speed 20r/min, cover plate speed 160mm/min; 1.13 times of tension force, cylinder~cover plate space 0.20mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.20mm, the front knife plate~cylinder 0.78mm that spaces; Cotton strip quantity 16.2g/5m
3. in advance also
The quantitative 17.48g/5m of honeycomb hygroscopic fibre pre-drawing,
3) mixing in doubling step
Honeycomb hygroscopic fibre pre-drawing strip is carried out two road draftings with the combing sliver mix, head and quantitative 14.8g/5m, 6 of number of doubling; Wherein 5 hygroscopic fibre pre-drawing add 1 combing sliver, 1.67 times of back area drafts, roller gauge 10*18mm; Two also quantitative 12.2g/5m, 7 of number of doubling, 1.30 times of back area drafts; Roller gauge 10*18mm, sliver exporting speed 200m/min
4) rove operation
Regular roving feeding 2.3g/10m, roving twist factor 98, back zone drafting multiple 1.25, roller gauge 23.5*37mm, nip gauge 5.0mm, the rove elongation is controlled in 1.0%,
5) spinning process
Jaw before long filament gets into through godet roller, 1.12 times of the drafting multiples of long filament, spun yarn spindle speed 12047r/min, spun yarn design twist factor 402; Roller gauge 18*35mm, 1.3 times of back area drafts, actual measurement yarn quality: powerful 180.57cN, powerful CV%10.5; Minimum powerful 148cN, Heavy Weight get damp again 2.1% partially+2.5%, and bar is done CV%14.0; Km details 9, km slubbing 30, km cotton knot 82, resultant yarn actual twist 126.9, twist factor 397
6) twist thread and winding procedure
The twist with different is spun into twine, tests its brute force, the clear excision of winding procedure electricity major defect, particularly short slub, and the clear parameter of short and thick economize on electricity is 150%, 2.0cm,
Two, weave production method, its concrete steps are following:
1) warping process
Speed of beaming is 400 meters/minute, and the speed of a motor vehicle is stable, and hundred myriametre broken ends of warping are controlled at below 1.2, and the warping tension pulley weighs 6 grams, nine sections of before, during and after Tension Control adopts and upper, middle and lower, and limit portion warp tension ratio proparea increases by 2 grams,
2) sizing operation
Slurry: PVA-1799 20Kg/ bucket, cornstarch 62.5Kg/ bucket, solid content 8.5%,
Sizing speed 45m/min, squeezing pressure precompressed/master's pressure/side pressure-8/16/4KN, drying tube temperature preliminary drying/master dries by the fire-110/100 ℃, unwinding tension 400N; Do district tension force 1200N, coiling tension 1500N, holder yarn power 1700N; Slurry bucket viscosity 9~13S, 93 ± 3 ℃ of temperature, stock tank viscosity 6~8S; The rate of sizing 9~11%, regain 2 ± 0.5%
3) weaving process
Adopt 40 ring temples, relative humidity 78--82%, tieing yarn tail length is 0.3--0.4 centimetre during the cracked ends joint; Loom speed 640r/min, warp tension 2000N, 1.2 pages-280,3.4 pages-300 of heald level times; Back rest position front and back/height № .4/12, warp stop frame position front and back/height № .-3/0, heald frame height 116; The big blade a of opening amount value-100.90.80.70, staplings<10CMPX, cracked ends<3CMPX.
The present invention takes following measure for the brute force that improves yarn:
1,, wants the few row of many pines in the scutching cotton operation because hygroscopic fibre length regularity is good, free from foreign meter; Thin layer is fed soon; Reduce the damage that pound causes fiber, economize on cotton, carding process should adopt light quantitatively, in space, the principle of low velocity, few noil, small tension receiving coil.
2, for reducing irregularity, hygroscopic fibre is carried out earlier together in advance also, carry out two road draftings with the combing sliver then and mix.Technological principle be heavily pressurize, space greatly, in quantitatively, low velocity.
3, the rove operation adopt gently quantitatively, heavily pressurize, space greatly, low-tension, the technological principle of middle low twist.Spinning process adopt space greatly, the heavy principle of pressurization, low velocity.
4, for increasing the brute force of twisting thread, twisting process is tested its brute force with the different twists, the preferred best twist.
5, warping is a principle with " medium velocity, small tension receiving coil, low elongation, guarantor's elasticity ".
6, owing to hygroscopic fibre moisture absorption and desorption property extra-heavy, suction slurry speed is fast, is easy to soak into; Also be easy to oven dry, thereby and its cellular aperture be prone to be blocked and lose moisture absorption sweat discharging functions by siliceous material, so we are when sizing; It is main only adopting with starch, and PVA is the prescription of assisting.
7, the cloth machine adopts the Process configuration of " small tension receiving coil, split shed, the high back rest ".
The present invention is through rational scutching cotton, carding process, and two road draftings mix, and suitable formula of size and sizing and weaving process, the fabric of production have good hydroscopic fast-drying effect and bony preferably.
The fabric of producing with the present invention has good hydroscopic fast-drying effect and bony preferably.The fabric of producing with the present invention can be used as military underlinen fabric, sportswear lining, business wear lining, knitted underwear, sportswear etc.
The specific embodiment
The present invention selects for use 80% honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber and 20% cotton fiber to do covered fiber, and 20D is common, and the long filament of washing is that heart yarn is produced the polyester-cotton blend cladded yarn, produces T/JC80/20 (60 thus S+ 20D)/2 * T/JC80/20 (60 S+ 20D)/2 76 * 7170.5 " 1/1 moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining.Honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber adopts the great strong honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber in Zhejiang.Concrete steps are following:
One, spinning is produced, and its concrete steps are following:
1, the opening picking of cotton fiber, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, combing, identical with common cotton yarn production method.
2, the opening picking of honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, in advance also:
1) opening and cleaning step
Because hygroscopic fibre length regularity is good, free from foreign meter, want the few row of many pines in the scutching cotton operation, thin layer is fed soon, reduces the damage that pound causes fiber, economizes on cotton.The main technique configuration: grab cotton hired roughneck's speed 880r/min, running efficiency is more than 90%; A036B type porcupine opener adopts kirschner beater, and speed is 380r/min; The comprehensive hired roughneck's speed of A076C type lapper 850r/min.The dirt rod that respectively falls to mixing spaces and is transferred to minimum.Cotton rolling quantity 382g/m, length 36m, lap extends in 1.5%.
2) carding step
Carding process should adopt light quantitatively, in space, the principle of low velocity, few noil, small tension receiving coil.In order to guarantee the definition of web, the spacing under with the situation that does not twine cylinder of cylinder and cover plate is with grasp less than normal.Reduce the noil and the flat strips rate of comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, adopt chord length to be the little leakage of 200mm at the bottom of, setting angle is strengthened in the position of suitably raising mote knife.Suitably reduce doffer's speed.Main technique configuration: cylinder speed 290r/min, licker-in speed 780r/min, doffer speed 20r/min; Cover plate speed 160mm/min; 1.13 times of tension force, cylinder~cover plate space 0.20mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.20mm, the front knife plate~cylinder 0.78mm that spaces.Cotton strip quantity 16.2g/5m.
3. in advance also
The quantitative 17.48g/5m of hygroscopic fibre pre-drawing.
3) mixing in doubling step
Moisture absorbing and sweat releasing pre-drawing strip is carried out two road draftings with the combing sliver to be mixed: head and quantitative 14.8g/5m, and 6 of number of doubling, wherein 5 hygroscopic fibre pre-drawing add 1 combing sliver, 1.67 times of back area drafts, roller gauge 10*18mm; Two also quantitative 12.2g/5m, 7 of number of doubling, 1.30 times of back area drafts, roller gauge 10*18mm, sliver exporting speed 200m/min.
4, rove operation
The rove operation adopts gently quantitatively, heavily pressurizes, spaces greatly, low-tension, the technological principle of middle low twist.Consider that in the spun yarn production process, the proportion that the FDY long filament is incorporated into is bigger, the drawing-off ability of spun yarn; The light partially control of regular roving feeding goes out hardhead for preventing spun yarn, satisfies ordinary production; For preventing that unexpected elongation from appearring in rove, roving twist suitably reduces simultaneously, and tension in the roving control is little.Back area draft is with grasp less than normal, and roller gauge is scalable.The main technique configuration: regular roving feeding 2.3g/10m, roving twist factor 98, back zone drafting multiple 1.25, roller gauge 23.5*37mm, nip gauge 5.0mm, the rove elongation is controlled in 1.0%.
5, spinning process
Spinning process adopts the principle of low velocity of heavily pressurizeing of spacing greatly.Jaw before long filament gets into through godet roller, doubly 1.12 times of the drawing-offs of long filament, guide wire apparatus will pass through certain transformation just can reach this drawing-off.Main technique configuration: spun yarn spindle speed 12047r/min, spun yarn design twist factor 402, roller gauge 18*35mm, 1.3 times of back area drafts.Yarn quality: powerful 180.57cN, powerful CV%10.5, minimum powerful 148cN, Heavy Weight get damp again 2.1% partially+2.5%, and bar is done CV%14.0, km details 9, km slubbing 30, km cotton knot 82, resultant yarn actual twist 126.9, twist factor 397.
6) twist thread and winding procedure
The twist with different is spun into twine, tests its brute force, and brute force is the highest during strand twist 92 sth. made by twisting/10cm.The clear excision of winding procedure electricity major defect, particularly short slub, the clear parameter of short and thick economize on electricity is+150%, 2.0cm.
7, become the yarn index to see table 1.
Table 1
Two, it is following to weave production method:
1, warping process
Warping is principle control with " medium velocity, small tension receiving coil, low elongation, guarantor's elasticity ".Warping process requires to accomplish that tension force, arrangement, coiling three evenly are crucial.Discrete method is adopted in the tension force configuration, and the limit yarn suitably increases the weight of.Because the hygroscopic fibre brute force is less than normal, filoplume regeneration, so warping process is taked following measure and requirement:
The warping machines speed of a motor vehicle is with control on the low side, and the whole degree of the warping of moisture absorbing and sweat releasing polyester-cotton blend Bao Xin is 400 meters/minute, and the speed of a motor vehicle must accomplish to stablize, to reduce elongation and broken end;
The pure bamboo that breaks end is controlled at below 1.2 hundred myriametres of warping.
Warping tension force adopts the strength loss of yarn after stressed that be configured to reduce less than normal; Tension pulley weight is 6 grams; Before, during and after Tension Control adopts and upper, middle and lower are divided nine sections; Come evenly control tension force with the tension force scale, and limit portion warp tension ratio proparea increase by 2 grams, so that adapt to the slack list phenomenon that the little unwinding tension of sizing is prone to.
2, sizing operation
Because hygroscopic fibre moisture absorption and desorption property extra-heavy, suction slurry speed is fast, is easy to soak into; Also be easy to oven dry, thereby and its cellular aperture be prone to be blocked and lose moisture absorption sweat discharging functions by siliceous material, so we are when sizing; It is main only adopting with starch, and PVA is the prescription of assisting.
Slurry: PVA-1799 20Kg/ bucket, cornstarch 62.5Kg/ bucket, solid content 8.5%,
Sizing speed 45m/min, squeezing pressure precompressed/master's pressure/side pressure-8/16/4KN, drying tube temperature preliminary drying/master dries by the fire-110/100 ℃; Unwinding tension 400N does district tension force 1200N, coiling tension 1500N; Holder yarn power 1700N, slurry bucket viscosity 9~13S temperature 93 ± 3 degree ℃, stock tank viscosity 6~8S; The rate of sizing 9~11%, regain 2 ± 0.5%.
3, weaving process
Consider that moisture absorbing and sweat releasing grey cloth lining broadwise shrinkage is big, occur polishing scratch and temple mark easily, adopt 40 ring temples.The cloth machine adopts the Process configuration of " small tension receiving coil, split shed, the high back rest ", and warp tension control less than normal helps cloth style like this.Relative humidity is controlled between the 78--82%.Tieing yarn tail length is controlled between 0.3--0.4 centimetre during the cracked ends joint; Tieing must be beaten the mosquito knot, prevents to disconnect to produce once more to stop.
4, loom knitting technology and the situation of weaving are seen table 2.
Table 2

Claims (4)

1. the production method of moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining is characterized in that
Do covered fiber with 80% honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber and 20% cotton fiber, 20D is common, and the long filament of washing is that heart yarn is produced T/JC80/20 (60 S+ 20D)/2 * T/JC80/20 (60 S+ 20D)/276 * 7170.5 " and 1/1 moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining, concrete steps are following:
One, spinning is produced, and its concrete steps are following:
1) opening picking of cotton fiber, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, combing,
2) opening picking of honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, in advance also,
1. opening and cleaning step
Grab cotton hired roughneck's speed 880r/min, running efficiency is more than 90%, and kirschner beater speed is 380r/min, the comprehensive hired roughneck's speed of rolling 850r/min, and the dirt rod that respectively falls to mixing spaces and is transferred to minimum, cotton rolling quantity 382g/m, length 36m, lap elongation<1.5%,
2. carding step
Cylinder speed 290r/min, licker-in speed 780r/min, doffer speed 20r/min, cover plate speed 160mm/min; 1.13 times of tension force, cylinder~cover plate space 0.20mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.20mm, the front knife plate~cylinder 0.78mm that spaces; Cotton strip quantity 16.2g/5m
3. in advance also
The quantitative 17.48g/5m of honeycomb hygroscopic fibre pre-drawing,
3) mixing in doubling step
Honeycomb hygroscopic fibre pre-drawing strip is carried out two road draftings with the combing sliver mix, head and quantitative 14.8g/5m, 6 of number of doubling; Wherein 5 hygroscopic fibre pre-drawing add 1 combing sliver, 1.67 times of back area drafts, roller gauge 10*18mm; Two also quantitative 12.2g/5m, 7 of number of doubling, 1.30 times of back area drafts; Roller gauge 10*18mm, sliver exporting speed 200m/min
4) rove operation
Regular roving feeding 2.3g/10m, roving twist factor 98, back zone drafting multiple 1.25, roller gauge 23.5*37mm, nip gauge 5.0mm, the rove elongation is controlled in 1.0%,
5) spinning process
Jaw before long filament gets into through godet roller, 1.12 times of the drafting multiples of long filament, spun yarn spindle speed 12047r/min, spun yarn design twist factor 402; Roller gauge 18*35mm, 1.3 times of back area drafts, actual measurement yarn quality: powerful 180.57cN, powerful CV%10.5; Minimum powerful 148cN, Heavy Weight get damp again 2.1% partially+2.5%, and bar is done CV%14.0; Km details 9, km slubbing 30, km cotton knot 82, resultant yarn actual twist 126.9, twist factor 397
6) twist thread and winding procedure
The twist with different is spun into twine, tests its brute force, the clear excision of winding procedure electricity major defect, and the clear parameter of short and thick economize on electricity is 150%, 2.0cm,
Two, weave production method, its concrete steps are following:
1) warping process
Speed of beaming is 400 meters/minute, and the speed of a motor vehicle is stable, and hundred myriametre broken ends of warping are controlled at below 1.2, and the warping tension pulley weighs 6 grams, nine sections of before, during and after Tension Control adopts and upper, middle and lower, and limit portion warp tension ratio proparea increases by 2 grams,
2) sizing operation
Slurry: PVA-1799 20Kg/ bucket, cornstarch 62.5Kg/ bucket, solid content 8.5%,
Sizing speed 45m/min, squeezing pressure precompressed/master's pressure/side pressure-8/16/4KN, drying tube temperature preliminary drying/master dries by the fire-110/100 ℃, unwinding tension 400N; Do district tension force 1200N, coiling tension 1500N, holder yarn power 1700N; Slurry bucket viscosity 9~13S, 93 ± 3 ℃ of temperature, stock tank viscosity 6~8S; The rate of sizing 9~11%, regain 2 ± 0.5%
3) weaving process
Adopt 40 ring temples, relative humidity 78--82%, tieing yarn tail length is 0.3--0.4 centimetre during the cracked ends joint; Loom speed 640r/min, warp tension 2000N, 1.2 pages-280,3.4 pages-300 of heald level times; Back rest position front and back/height № .4/12, warp stop frame position front and back/height № .-3/0, heald frame height 116; The big blade a of opening amount value-100.90.80.70, staplings<10CMPX, cracked ends<3CMPX.
2. the production method of moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining according to claim 1 is characterized in that honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber adopts the great strong honeycomb hydroscopic fast-drying fiber in Zhejiang.
3. the production method of moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining according to claim 1 is characterized in that A036B type porcupine opener adopts kirschner beater, and speed is 380r/min, the comprehensive hired roughneck's speed of A076C type lapper 850r/min.
4. the production method of moisture absorption sweat discharging functions property lining according to claim 1 is characterized in that on twisting machine, being spun into line with 82 sth. made by twisting/10cm, 86 sth. made by twisting/10cm, three kinds of twists of 92 sth. made by twisting/10cm respectively, and strand twist is 92 sth. made by twisting/10cm.
CN2010102517349A 2010-08-10 2010-08-10 Production method of moisture-absorbing and sweat-discharging fabric CN101962850B (en)

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