CN110699807A - High-proportion worsted velvet product and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

High-proportion worsted velvet product and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN110699807A
CN110699807A CN201911031519.5A CN201911031519A CN110699807A CN 110699807 A CN110699807 A CN 110699807A CN 201911031519 A CN201911031519 A CN 201911031519A CN 110699807 A CN110699807 A CN 110699807A
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wool
needle
weight
yarn
drafting
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CN110699807B (en
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陶前兵
薛正利
蔡贤红
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NINGBO KANGSAINI TEXTILE PRODUCT CO Ltd
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NINGBO KANGSAINI TEXTILE PRODUCT CO Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/042Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from natural material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01CCHEMICAL OR BIOLOGICAL TREATMENT OF NATURAL FILAMENTARY OR FIBROUS MATERIAL TO OBTAIN FILAMENTS OR FIBRES FOR SPINNING; CARBONISING RAGS TO RECOVER ANIMAL FIBRES
    • D01C3/00Treatment of animal material, e.g. chemical scouring of wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01GPRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G13/00Mixing, e.g. blending, fibres; Mixing non-fibrous materials with fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01GPRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G15/00Carding machines or accessories; Card clothing; Burr-crushing or removing arrangements associated with carding or other preliminary-treatment machines
    • D01G15/02Carding machines
    • D01G15/10Carding machines with other apparatus, e.g. drafting devices, in integral or closely-associated combination
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01GPRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G21/00Combinations of machines, apparatus, or processes, e.g. for continuous processing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01HSPINNING OR TWISTING
    • D01H13/00Other common constructional features, details or accessories
    • D01H13/30Moistening, sizing, oiling, waxing, colouring, or drying yarns or the like as incidental measures during spinning or twisting
    • D01H13/306Moistening, sizing, oiling, waxing, colouring, or drying yarns or the like as incidental measures during spinning or twisting by applying fluids, e.g. steam or oiling liquids
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Husbandry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Wood Science & Technology (AREA)
  • Zoology (AREA)
  • Preliminary Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a high-proportion worsted velvet product and a preparation method thereof, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps: the first step is as follows: a: cashmere raw material → muzzle wool; b: silk short fiber → stifling wool; the second step is that: wool → cotton carding → three-needle carding → first combing → two-needle carding → second combing → six-needle carding → roving → fine yarn → first yarn steaming → doubling → twisting → second yarn steaming → finished yarn inspection. According to the invention, through improving the quality of raw materials, improving the wool oil and the antistatic agent added by wool and selecting a better production route flow, the product has less wool particles and small static electricity in the production process, and finally the velvet product with higher proportion is spun.

Description

High-proportion worsted velvet product and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to a high-proportion worsted velvet product and a preparation method thereof.
Background
With the global warming, people pay attention to light weight, thick overcoat woollen cloth and women's fancy suiting are all subjected to cold falling in the past, and the yield of wool fabrics is reduced by 20% in nearly ten years. The silk is light and slender, the fabric luster is good, the wearing is comfortable, the hand feeling is smooth and plump, the heat conduction is poor, the moisture absorption and the air permeability are realized, the silk velvet product has the luster of the silk, the soft hand feeling and the gorgeous and noble appearance of cashmere, and the effect of the pure velvet product is difficult to achieve.
The mixed spinning of the silk and the cashmere can reduce the using amount of the cashmere, and reduce the harm caused by excessive grazing to a certain extent, which is an important opportunity for improving the environment in a plurality of arid areas in China.
The worsted high proportion velvet product is limited by the equipment and raw material of worsted wool spinning, the biggest difficulty is the control of wool particles, the worsted wool particles are formed again under the carding of a needle plate after the worsted wool particle is fed into a combing machine and oil is added through four needles of a complex comb, especially the high proportion of the clipped velvet product, but the wool particles can be controlled in a smaller range through the optimization of the process so as to improve the appearance quality of the yarn.
The silk is one of ancient Chinese civilization products, the invention production of Chinese workers is a very early thing, the Feixiao of Huangdi handed to each other is used for teaching people to breed silkworms, the silk is mainly used for weaving silk fabrics such as a silk, a damask, a silk, fine silk fabrics, yarn, crape, silk, brocade, embroidery and the like, and the spinning time of the short fiber of the silk is short. The original velour product is produced on roving, the count is lower, the grade is not high, and the velour blended product has breakthrough development until semi-worsted appears. In the processing process of worsted velvet products, fibers need to be repeatedly carded and stretched, in the process, due to the fact that the strength of the filaments is high, the filaments are easy to be formed into filament particles and need to be strongly carded, but the strength of the velvet is low, the velvet is easy to break into ultra-short fibers and fall, the velvet cannot be strongly carded, and a carding balance point needs to be found, so that the velvet products are not common in worsted production, particularly the velvet products with high proportion, and the process technology is not mature.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the technical problem of overcoming the technical defects of the background technology and provides a high-proportion worsted velvet product and a preparation method thereof. According to the invention, through improving the quality of raw materials, improving the wool oil and the antistatic agent added by wool and selecting a better production route flow, the product has less wool particles and small static electricity in the production process, and finally the velvet product with higher proportion is spun.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows:
a method for preparing a high-proportion worsted velvet product comprises the following steps:
the first step is as follows:
a: cashmere raw material → muzzle wool;
b: silk short fiber → stifling wool;
the second step is that:
wool → cotton carding → three-needle carding → first combing → two-needle carding → second combing → six-needle carding → roving → fine yarn → first yarn steaming → doubling → twisting → second yarn steaming → finished yarn inspection.
Preferably, in the first step, in the step a, wool blending oil, an antistatic agent and water are added during wool blending, and the wool is subjected to storehouse blending for 24 hours.
Preferably, in the first step, step B, the length of the silk staple fibers is 52 mm.
Preferably, in the first step, step B, antistatic agent and water are added during the hair-sealing, and the chamber is sealed for 24 hours.
Preferably, the cashmere raw material and the silk short fiber raw material after the first step of stifling are mixed and beaten during the wool blending.
Preferably, the two gill combs have a uniform belt.
Preferably, the method for preparing the high-proportion worsted velvet product comprises the following steps:
(1) blending: adding special wool oil, antistatic agent and water into cashmere raw materials according to the weight ratio of 1: 10, and sealing the cashmere raw materials in a warehouse for more than 24 hours; according to the weight ratio, adding special DK and wool oil, an antistatic agent and water into the silk short fibers according to the proportion of 1: 10, after the mixture is sealed for at least 12 hours, mixing and opening the mixture with the cashmere raw material, and putting the mixture on a machine after the mixture is placed for 24 hours; wherein the average length of the cashmere raw material is 38.3 mm, and the short rate is 5.2%; the average length of the silk short fibers is 44.1 mm, and the fineness of the silk short fibers is 2.4 dtex;
(2) carding cotton: mixing the cashmere raw material subjected to wool blending with the silk short fibers, and feeding the mixture into a carding machine for carding;
(3) three-pass gilling: carrying out a sliver making procedure, wherein sliver making needs three times, twelve carding slivers are combined and fed into a gilling machine in the first step, the drafting is selected to be 3.6 times, and the front gauge is 26 mm; 4 second tops are fed in a combined mode, the drafting selection is 4.08 times, and the front gauge is 26 millimeters; feeding 4 wool tops, wherein the drafting is selected by 5 times, and the front gauge is 26 mm;
(4) combing for the first time: conveying the wool tops subjected to the wool top making process to a combing machine, wherein the gap between the jaws of the combing machine is 27 mm, and then, 24 wool tops are fed in a combining way;
(5) two needle combs: conveying the wool tops combed for the first time to a gilling machine with automatic leveling, performing two-pass gilling treatment, wherein the first-pass front gauge is 26 mm, feeding 6 wool tops in a combining manner, and drafting by 5 times; the distance between the second front gauge and the second front gauge is 26 mm, and the drafting is selected to be 4 times;
(6) combing for the second time: combing the carded wool tops for the second time, wherein the gap of a jaw of the combing process is 26 mm, and 24 wool tops are selected and fed in a combining way;
(7) six needle combs: selecting 5 pieces in the first needle procedure, feeding the pieces together, and enabling the weight of wool tops to be 22 g/m, the drafting multiple to be 5.00 times, and the unevenness rate of the weight of the produced wool tops to be 0-1%; the two-needle and three-needle working procedure selects 4 pieces of wool to be fed in a combined mode, the weight of wool tops is 8.6 g/m, the drafting multiple is 5.15 times, the yield CV is 0-2.6%, and the yield weight unevenness is 0-1%; selecting 4-6 needles in the four-needle and five-needle process, and feeding the selected needles in a combined manner, wherein the weight of wool tops is 4.7-5.8 g/m, the drafting multiple is 5.50-5.53 times, the yield CV 0-2.8% and the yield unevenness is 0-0.8%; in the six-needle process, 6-8 slivers are selected and fed in a combined manner, the weight of wool tops is 2.7-4.2 g/m, the drafting multiple is 5.20-5.50 times, the sliver yield CV is 0-2.8%, and the sliver yield irregularity is 0-0.7%;
(8, selecting the roving yarn with the drafting multiple of 9-9.7 times, and enabling the weight of the roving yarn to be 0.3-0.44 g/m;
(9) spinning: the drafting multiple is 19.2-23.7 times;
(10) steaming yarn for the first time;
(11) and (3) doubling: the doubling process needs to control the tension and the forming of the yarns, 3 tension pieces are used, and the speed is 380-420 m/min;
(12) twisting: the speed is 5500-6000 r/min, the design twist is 350T/M-380T/M, the number of tension beads is 3# or 4#, the direction of twist is 3# or 4, S;
(13) steaming the yarn for the second time;
(14) and (5) inspecting finished yarn.
Preferably, in the step (1), the cashmere raw material accounts for 15-30% of the total weight, and the silk short fibers account for 70-85% of the total weight.
Preferably, in the step (1), the moisture regain is up to 20% based on the amount of water.
Preferably, in the step (10), the temperature of the first yarn steaming is 80 ℃, and the steaming is continued for 60 minutes.
Preferably, in the step (13), the temperature of the second yarn steaming is 80 ℃, and the steaming is continued for 70 minutes.
A high proportion worsted velvet product is prepared by the preparation method.
In the above technical solution, in the value range represented by the symbol "-", when the lower limit end point is 0, the end point value is not included; when the lower endpoint is not 0, the endpoint value is included.
In the technical scheme, the percentage is mass percent.
The basic principle of the invention is as follows:
the high-proportion worsted velvet product of the invention has four technical problems:
1. silk particle: the problem that the wool particles are comprehensively considered from three aspects of card clothing, gauge and speed ratio, and small gauge and strong carding are required is solved;
2. the static electricity in the manufacturing process is serious: the static problem is solved by starting from the wool combining process and strictly controlling the temperature and the humidity of a workshop in the production process;
3. the characteristics of the two fibers create a contradiction in the processing technology: in the velvet processing process, the silk has high strength, is easy to be agglomerated into silk grains, needs strong carding, has low strength and is easy to be broken into ultra-short fibers. When the velours are combed together, a balance point needs to be mastered, namely, the velours do not need to be combed excessively and strongly on the premise of not generating hair grains; before the combined wool carding, the dyed yarns should be opened, so that the carding state can be improved;
4. and (3) velvet falling: the twist degree plays a great role in improving fluff falling, the twist coefficient is too high, the fabric is hard, the twist coefficient is too low, and the fabric is easy to fall fluff.
The principle of producing high-proportion velvet products is to select a more optimal production route flow and the like by improving the quality of raw materials, improving the wool-added wool oil and the antistatic agent. Therefore, the product has less wool particles and small static electricity in the production process, so that a velvet product with higher proportion can be spun.
Therefore, there are several key steps in the selection of the process route:
the first step is to reasonably select raw materials. Because spun silk is thin and is easy to be tangled and conglobated in the spinning process, the spun silk with proper fineness, softness, smoothness and good hygroscopicity is selected to ensure that the spun silk has better strength, elasticity and luster.
The cashmere matched with spun silk has high short staple rate due to large length dispersion of cashmere fibers during material selection, the short staple rate is easy to generate hair particles in the carding process, the short staple rate is generally controlled within 8 percent, and the short staple rate is controlled within 5 percent during high count yarn spinning.
The second step is the quality control in the dyeing step, and in order to reduce the carding load of the carding machine and enhance the carding effect, the loose and smooth state of the fibers should be kept as much as possible. Before dyeing, the spun silk needs to be opened by an opener so as to ensure that felt is formed after dyeing of the dyed spun silk after the colloid content of the dyed spun silk is increased, and the subsequent processing and the yarn quality are influenced. Naturally, degumming of spun silk by dyeing is also thorough, hardening, hard lumps and the like which are formed because of incomplete degumming are avoided, but excessive degumming is also avoided, so that the surface of the spun silk is rough and has burrs, small hair grains are easily formed in the spinning process, and the small hair grains are very obvious in color and luster.
In the dyeing process, pretreatment and aftertreatment are enhanced, wherein the pretreatment is to thoroughly remove dirt and impurities in raw materials, the dyed color is pure and bright, the fiber state is soft, smooth and loose, the aftertreatment is to re-wash the dyed silk clean, has no floating color and is not sticky, and the color fastness and the smoothness of a spinning link are ensured. In addition, compared with spun silk, cashmere is loose and smooth in fiber, easy to comb and low in probability of generating wool particles, so that in general, the spun silk is used as a main color, the cashmere is used as a color matching, the wool particles are good in visual performance, such as 75/25 velvet, deep flower ash, black and white 2 colors, the proportion of black is high, the silk can be dyed into black, and white color matching is left on the cashmere.
And thirdly, optimizing a blending process. Wool oil is required to be added into the spun silk and the cashmere respectively, the cashmere is generally controlled to be about 2%, the cashmere fibers are mutually adhered due to excessive wool oil, and due effects cannot be achieved due to insufficient wool oil. The silk static electricity is big, should add about 2 ~ 3% electrostatic agent to with opener opening, stifle storehouse 24 hours, the loose degree of various fibre in the raw materials is unanimous basically, the dyeing fibre should be opened in advance, to the big variety of shade phase proportion difference, need adopt the mode of falsely closing, make the raw materials intensive mixing, need strictly control the degree of consistency of adding the oil water, guarantee stifle storehouse time.
And fourthly, optimizing a spinning process route. Adopts a process route combining cotton spinning and wool spinning equipment. The speed ratio between the cylinder and the doffer and between the cylinder and the needle roller is reasonably selected once through a cotton spinning carding machine, a process route with tight spacing and strong carding is adopted between a cover plate of the carding machine and the cylinder, the carding capacity is improved, fiber entanglement is reduced, the fibers are fully carded and form a single fiber state, the ration of carding is slightly controlled, generally within the range of 13-15 g/5 m, the carding effect of the carding machine is facilitated, the drafting multiple of a later process is reduced, and the evenness is improved. And in the needle combing process, a needle is added with water according to the ratio of 1: 12, the spraying is mainly uniform, meanwhile, the smoothness of a yarn channel is kept, the fibers are prevented from being tangled, the temperature and the humidity of a workshop are properly controlled, the fibers are prevented from generating electrostatic aggregation, and the continuous generation of wool particles is reduced. Combing, namely combing two sides, oiling the four needles of the compound comb according to the proportion of 1: 12 after oiling, and standing for 24 hours after oiling to ensure that oil and water are fully absorbed.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) according to the invention, through improving the quality of raw materials, improving the wool oil and the antistatic agent added by wool and selecting a better production route flow, the product has less wool particles and small static electricity in the production process, and a velvet product with higher proportion is finally spun;
(2) the invention develops two new products with different hand feelings from different proportions:
firstly, the method comprises the following steps: 85% silk 15% wool product;
secondly, the method comprises the following steps: 70% silk 30% velvet product.
Detailed Description
For a better understanding of the present invention, reference is made to the following examples. It is to be understood that these examples are for further illustration of the invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. In addition, it should be understood that the invention is not limited to the above-described embodiments, but is capable of various modifications and changes within the scope of the invention.
Example 1 (85% silk 15% velvet product)
According to the weight ratio, the cashmere raw material is added with special wool oil, antistatic agent and water (moisture regaining is up to 20 percent according to the water content) according to the proportion of 1: 10, and the cashmere raw material is sealed for more than 24 hours. According to the weight ratio, adding special DK and wool oil, antistatic agent and water (moisture regaining according to the water content of 20%) into the silk short fibers according to the proportion of 1: 10, after the silk short fibers are sealed for at least 12 hours, mixing the silk short fibers with cashmere raw materials, opening the fibers, standing the mixture for 24 hours, and then loading the mixture on a machine. Wherein the average length of the cashmere is 38.3 mm, and the short rate is 5.2%; the average length of the silk staple fibers was 44.1 mm and the fineness was 2.4 dtex. The cashmere accounts for 15% of the total weight, and the silk accounts for 85% of the total weight. Mixing and feeding wool blended cashmere and silk into a carding machine for carding, then carrying out a sliver making process, wherein sliver making needs three processes, twelve wool slivers are combined and fed into a gilling machine in the first process, the drafting is 3.6 times, and the front gauge is 26 mm; 4 second tops are fed in a combined mode, the drafting selection is 4.08 times, and the front gauge is 26 millimeters; 4 wool tops in the third path are fed, the drafting is selected by 5 times, and the front space is 26 mm. The tops after the top making process are conveyed to a combing machine, the gap between the jaws is 27 mm, and at the moment, 24 tops are fed in a combining way. Conveying combed wool tops to a gilling machine with automatic leveling for secondary gilling treatment, wherein the first front gauge is 26 mm, 6 wool tops are fed in a combined manner, and the drafting is selected by 5 times; the second front gauge was 26 mm and the draft was selected to be 4 times. And (3) combing the carded wool tops for one time, wherein the gap of a jaw of the combing process is 26 mm, and 24 wool tops are selected and fed in a combining manner. Then 5 pieces of wool are selected and fed in a first needle procedure, the weight of wool tops is 22 g/m, the drafting multiple is selected to be 5.00 times, and the unevenness rate of the weight of the produced wool tops is below 1%; the two-needle and three-needle working procedure selects 4 pieces of wool to be combined and fed, the weight of wool tops is 8.6 g/m, the drafting multiple is selected to be 5.15 times, the yield CV is below 2.6 percent, and the yield weight irregularity is below 1 percent; 6 pieces of wool tops are selected in the four-needle and five-needle procedures and are fed in a combined mode, the weight of the wool tops is 4.7 g/m, the drafting multiple is 5.50 times, the yield CV is below 2.8%, and the yield weight unevenness is below 0.8%; in the six-needle process, 6 yarns are selected and fed in a combined mode, the weight of wool tops is 2.7 g/m, the drafting multiple is 5.20 times, the sliver discharging CV is below 2.8 percent, and the sliver discharging unevenness is below 0.7 percent. The roving process was then carried out with a draft factor of 9 selected and a sliver weight of 0.3 g/m. In the spinning step, the draft ratio was 23.7 times. And then carrying out yarn steaming operation, wherein the yarn steaming adopts high-temperature yarn steaming at 80 ℃, and steaming is carried out for 60 minutes continuously. And after yarn steaming, performing a doubling process, wherein the doubling process needs to control the tension and the forming of the yarn, 3 tension pieces are used, and the speed is 420 m/min. And a two-for-one twisting process, wherein the speed is 6000r/min, the designed twist is 380T/M, the number of tension beads is 4#, and the twisting direction of the tension guide wheel 4 and S is adopted. The two-for-one twisting was followed by a second steaming, here again at a high temperature of 80 ℃ for 70 minutes.
According to the detection of the industrial standard, the fiber content in the yarn is 85 percent, the yarn is 15 percent cashmere, the twist of the plied yarn is 500T/M, CV in physical indexes is less than 13 percent, the strength of the plied yarn is more than 900CN/tex, and the specific standard refers to the combed cashmere knitting yarn standard.
Example 2 (70% silk 30% velvet product)
According to the weight ratio, the cashmere raw material is added with special wool oil, antistatic agent and water (moisture regaining is up to 20 percent according to the water content) according to the proportion of 1: 10, and the cashmere raw material is sealed for more than 24 hours. According to the weight ratio, adding special DK and wool oil, antistatic agent and water (moisture regaining according to the water content of 20%) into the silk short fibers according to the proportion of 1: 10, after the silk short fibers are sealed for at least 12 hours, mixing the silk short fibers with cashmere raw materials, opening the fibers, standing the mixture for 24 hours, and then loading the mixture on a machine. Wherein the average length of the cashmere is 38.3 mm, and the short rate is 5.2%; the average length of the silk staple fibers was 44.1 mm and the fineness was 2.4 dtex. 30 percent of cashmere and 70 percent of silk. Mixing and feeding wool blended cashmere and silk into a carding machine for carding, then carrying out a sliver making process, wherein sliver making needs three processes, twelve wool slivers are combined and fed into a gilling machine in the first process, the drafting is 3.6 times, and the front gauge is 26 mm; 4 second tops are fed in a combined mode, the drafting selection is 4.08 times, and the front gauge is 26 millimeters; 4 wool tops in the third path are fed, the drafting is selected by 5 times, and the front space is 26 mm. The tops after the top making process are conveyed to a combing machine, the gap between the jaws is 27 mm, and at the moment, 24 tops are fed in a combining way. Conveying combed wool tops to a gilling machine with automatic leveling for secondary gilling treatment, wherein the first front gauge is 26 mm, 6 wool tops are fed in a combined manner, and the drafting is selected by 5 times; the second front gauge was 26 mm and the draft was selected to be 4 times. And (3) combing the carded wool tops for one time, wherein the gap of a jaw of the combing process is 26 mm, and 24 wool tops are selected and fed in a combining manner. Then 5 pieces of wool are selected and fed in a first needle procedure, the drafting multiple is 5 times, the weight of wool tops is 22 g/m, and the unevenness rate of the weight of the wool tops is below 1%; the two-needle and three-needle working procedure selects 4 pieces of raw materials to be fed in a combined mode, the drafting multiple is 5.15 times, the weight of the wool tops is 8.6 g/m, the CV of the produced slivers is below 2.6 percent, and the unevenness rate of the weight of the produced slivers is below 1 percent; selecting 4 needles in the four-needle and five-needle procedures, and feeding the selected needles in a combined manner, wherein the drafting multiple is 5.53 times, the weight of wool tops is 5.8 g/m, the yield CV is less than 2.8 percent, and the unevenness rate of the yield weight is less than 0.8 percent; the six-needle process has 8 combined feeds, the weight of the wool tops is 4.2 g/m, the draft multiple is 5.50 times, the sliver discharging CV is below 2.8 percent, and the sliver discharging irregularity is below 0.7 percent. The roving process was then carried out with a draft factor of 9.7 and a sliver weight of 0.44 g/m. In the spinning step, the draft ratio was 19.2 times. And then carrying out yarn steaming operation, wherein the yarn steaming adopts high-temperature yarn steaming at 80 ℃, and steaming is carried out for 60 minutes continuously. And (3) after yarn steaming, performing a doubling process, wherein the doubling process needs to control the tension and the forming of the yarn, 3 tension pieces are used, and the speed of the vehicle is 380 m/min. The double twisting process, the speed of 5500r/min, the designed twist of 350T/M, the tension bead 3#, the tension guide wheel 3, S twist direction. The two-for-one twisting was followed by a second steaming, here again at a high temperature of 80 ℃ for 70 minutes.
Detecting according to the industry standard, the fiber content in the yarn is 70% silk and 30% cashmere, and the twist of the plied yarn is 445T/M; CV in physical indexes is less than 13 percent, the strength of strand yarn is more than 800CN/tex, and the specific standard refers to the standard of combed cashmere knitting yarn.
The above description is not intended to limit the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to the above examples. Those skilled in the art should also realize that changes, modifications, additions and substitutions can be made without departing from the true spirit and scope of the invention.

Claims (6)

1. A preparation method of a high-proportion worsted velvet product is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) blending: adding crude oil, antistatic agent and water into cashmere raw materials according to the weight ratio of 1: 10, and sealing the box for more than 24 hours; according to the weight ratio, adding wool oil, an antistatic agent and water into the silk short fibers according to the proportion of 1: 10, after the silk short fibers are sealed for at least 12 hours, mixing and opening the silk short fibers with the cashmere raw material, placing the mixture for 24 hours, and then loading the mixture on a machine; wherein the average length of the cashmere raw material is 38.3 mm, and the short rate is 5.2%; the average length of the silk short fibers is 44.1 mm, and the fineness of the silk short fibers is 2.4 dtex;
(2) carding cotton: mixing the cashmere raw material subjected to wool blending with the silk short fibers, and feeding the mixture into a carding machine for carding;
(3) three-pass gilling: carrying out a sliver making procedure, wherein sliver making needs three times, twelve carding slivers are combined and fed into a gilling machine in the first step, the drafting is selected to be 3.6 times, and the front gauge is 26 mm; 4 second tops are fed in a combined mode, the drafting selection is 4.08 times, and the front gauge is 26 millimeters; feeding 4 wool tops, wherein the drafting is selected by 5 times, and the front gauge is 26 mm;
(4) combing for the first time: conveying the wool tops subjected to the wool top making process to a combing machine, wherein the gap between the jaws of the combing machine is 27 mm, and then, 24 wool tops are fed in a combining way;
(5) two needle combs: conveying the wool tops combed for the first time to a gilling machine with automatic leveling, performing two-pass gilling treatment, wherein the first-pass front gauge is 26 mm, feeding 6 wool tops in a combining manner, and drafting by 5 times; the distance between the second front gauge and the second front gauge is 26 mm, and the drafting is selected to be 4 times;
(6) combing for the second time: combing the carded wool tops for the second time, wherein the gap of a jaw of the combing process is 26 mm, and 24 wool tops are selected and fed in a combining way;
(7) six needle combs: selecting 5 pieces in the first needle procedure, feeding the pieces together, and enabling the weight of wool tops to be 22 g/m, the drafting multiple to be 5.00 times, and the unevenness rate of the weight of the produced wool tops to be 0-1%; the two-needle and three-needle working procedure selects 4 pieces of wool to be fed in a combined mode, the weight of wool tops is 8.6 g/m, the drafting multiple is 5.15 times, the yield CV is 0-2.6%, and the yield weight unevenness is 0-1%; selecting 4-6 needles in the four-needle and five-needle process, and feeding the selected needles in a combined manner, wherein the weight of wool tops is 4.7-5.8 g/m, the drafting multiple is 5.50-5.53 times, the yield CV is 0-2.8%, and the yield unevenness is 0-0.8%; in the six-needle process, 6-8 slivers are selected and fed in a combined manner, the weight of wool tops is 2.7-4.2 g/m, the drafting multiple is 5.20-5.50 times, the sliver yield CV is 0-2.8%, and the sliver yield irregularity is 0-0.7%;
(8, selecting the roving yarn with the drafting multiple of 9-9.7 times, and enabling the weight of the roving yarn to be 0.3-0.44 g/m;
(9) spinning: the drafting multiple is 19.2-23.7 times;
(10) steaming yarn for the first time;
(11) and (3) doubling: the doubling process needs to control the tension and the forming of the yarns, 3 tension pieces are used, and the speed is 380-420 m/min;
(12) twisting: the speed is 5500-6000 r/min, the design twist is 350T/M-380T/M, the number of tension beads is 3# or 4#, the direction of twist is 3# or 4, S;
(13) steaming the yarn for the second time;
(14) and (5) inspecting finished yarn.
2. A method for preparing a high proportion worsted velvet product according to claim 1, wherein in the step (1), the cashmere raw material accounts for 15-30% of the total weight, and the silk short fiber accounts for 70-85% of the total weight.
3. The method of claim 1, wherein in step (1), the moisture regain is up to 20% at said water level.
4. The method of claim 1, wherein said first steaming is carried out at a temperature of 80 ℃ for 60 minutes in step (10).
5. The method of claim 1, wherein said second steaming is carried out at a temperature of 80 ℃ for 70 minutes in step (13).
6. A high proportion worsted velvet product, characterized by being produced by the method of any one of claims 1 to 5.
CN201911031519.5A 2019-10-28 2019-10-28 High-proportion worsted velvet product and preparation method thereof Active CN110699807B (en)

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CN111748894A (en) * 2020-05-22 2020-10-09 北京服装学院 Crepe tissue designed based on tissue point iteration method and fabric thereof
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