CN113005580A - Tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN113005580A
CN113005580A CN202110241275.4A CN202110241275A CN113005580A CN 113005580 A CN113005580 A CN 113005580A CN 202110241275 A CN202110241275 A CN 202110241275A CN 113005580 A CN113005580 A CN 113005580A
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China
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flax
tencel
fiber
speed
fibers
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
王黎明
李瑛慧
覃小红
权震震
吴霄
黄敏
李向东
刘明哲
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DEZHOU HUAYUAN ECO-TECHNOLOGY CO LTD
Zhejiang Jiushun Textile Co ltd
Zhejiang Xinlan Textile Co ltd
Donghua University
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DEZHOU HUAYUAN ECO-TECHNOLOGY CO LTD
Zhejiang Jiushun Textile Co ltd
Zhejiang Xinlan Textile Co ltd
Donghua University
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Priority to CN202110241275.4A priority Critical patent/CN113005580A/en
Publication of CN113005580A publication Critical patent/CN113005580A/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01HSPINNING OR TWISTING
    • D01H4/00Open-end spinning machines or arrangements for imparting twist to independently moving fibres separated from slivers; Piecing arrangements therefor; Covering endless core threads with fibres by open-end spinning techniques
    • D01H4/02Open-end spinning machines or arrangements for imparting twist to independently moving fibres separated from slivers; Piecing arrangements therefor; Covering endless core threads with fibres by open-end spinning techniques imparting twist by a fluid, e.g. air vortex
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/04Linen
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions

Abstract

The invention relates to tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn and a preparation method thereof, wherein the core-spun yarn consists of a central T400 composite elastic filament and an outer wrapping fiber, and the outer wrapping fiber consists of tencel and flax. The tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn and the subsequent fabric prepared by the method have the advantages of hanging, elegance, moisture absorption, air permeability, smooth silk quality, bacteriostasis, mould prevention, greenness and environmental protection, and the core-spun yarn integrates the advantages of the elastic core yarn, is comfortable to wear and has good shape retention; compared with the traditional flax blended product, the problem that the dyed flax fiber is lighter in color than tencel fiber and the problem that the flax fiber blending ratio of the final product is reduced can be obviously improved.

Description

Tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of core-spun yarns and preparation thereof, and particularly relates to tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The air-jet vortex spinning is the latest spinning technology in the current spinning system, and since 2005 in China, a few enterprises introduce air-jet vortex spinning equipment and obtain good economic benefits. The air-jet vortex spinning is directly wound into cone yarn by cotton sliver spinning, and the spinning process flow is short; the spinning speed is very high and is 15-20 times of that of ring spinning; the automation degree of the equipment is high, and the labor is reduced.
Compared with natural textile raw materials, the tencel has more scientific and technological innovation significance and better fashion value. The fabric has the advantages of cotton comfort, terylene strength, luxury aesthetic feeling of wool fabric, unique touch feeling and softness and drapability of real silk, and has toughness under dry and wet conditions. The hundred percent pure natural raw materials and the green and environment-friendly manufacturing process completely meet the current concept and life style of pursuing environment protection. Flax belongs to bast fiber of plants, and has main components of hydrophilic cellulose, hemicellulose and colloid with stronger moisture absorption performance, and more importantly, has a unique pectin inclined flat hole structure, and the structure can generate excellent capillary effect to ensure that the fabric has better moisture absorption, sweat releasing, air permeability and heat conductivity, the air permeability ratio is up to more than 25 percent, the heat conductivity and the air permeability are excellent, and the skin surface temperature can be quickly and effectively reduced by 4-8 ℃. The aerobic property of the hollow structure of the anaerobic reactor can prevent anaerobic bacteria from surviving, thereby having the functions of bacteriostasis and antibiosis. In addition, the flax fiber also has good ultraviolet resistance, antifouling and antistatic properties. But the flax fiber has higher initial modulus, high orientation degree and thicker fiber. The tencel and the flax blended fabric not only overcomes the defect of coarse and hard flax fabrics, but also plays the advantages of soft hand feeling, good luster and good strength and elongation of the tencel fabrics, and achieves the effect of complementary advantages.
The T400 composite fiber is a novel elastic composite fiber, does not contain spandex, has good elasticity, and solves the problems of difficult dyeing, excessive elasticity, complex weaving, unstable fabric size, aging of spandex in the using process and the like of the spandex. The prepared fabric has light elasticity, is comfortable and lasting; the fabric is soft, stiff and smooth and has good drapability; the cloth surface is smooth and the wrinkle resistance is good; moisture absorption and quick drying, and smooth hand feeling; the size stability is good, and the cleaning is easy. The excellent wearability makes it widely used in the fields of trousers, jeans, sportswear, high-grade women's wear, etc.
CN 112064159A discloses a flax fiber blended yarn and a production process thereof, the method aims to uniformly mix flax fibers, stretch yarns and tencel fibers by using wet spinning, and due to the difference of dyeing properties of the flax fibers and the tencel, the problem that the flax fibers are lighter than the tencel after dyeing of the tencel and hemp blended fabric is solved, and a cloth cover crosspiece is presented. The colors of the flax fibers, the stretch yarn fibers and the tencel are selected and matched according to the yarn requirements, and the problem of different fiber dye-uptake rates is not solved.
According to the invention, the dyeing catalyst is added in the flax pretreatment stage, so that the dye uptake of flax fibers is improved, and cloth cover crosspieces generated by different dye uptake after dyeing of the tencel and ramie blended fabric are overcome.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn and a preparation method thereof, overcomes the technical defects that the existing flax fiber is poor in spinnability and the dyed flax fiber is lighter in color than tencel fiber, solves the problem of lowering the blending ratio of the flax fiber of a final product, and optimizes the blending process of the flax and the tencel fiber.
The tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn disclosed by the invention is composed of a central T400 composite elastic filament and an outer wrapping fiber, wherein the outer wrapping fiber is composed of tencel and flax.
The mass ratio of the wrapping fibers to the T400 composite elastic filament is 4:1-6: 1; the outer wrapping fiber comprises tencel fiber and flax fiber according to the mass ratio of 8:3-7: 4.
The invention relates to a preparation method of tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn, which comprises the following steps:
(1) pretreating flax fibers by using an emulsifier and a dyeing catalyst to obtain pretreated flax fibers;
(2) carrying out raw drawing on flax fibers and tencel fibers, and carrying out drawing process to obtain mixed cooked slivers;
(3) feeding the mixed drawn sliver obtained in the step (2) into an air-jet vortex spinning machine, and feeding the T400 filament from a front roller through a filament guide device to obtain the tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn.
The preferred mode of the above preparation method is as follows:
the pretreatment in the step (1) is specifically as follows: spraying emulsifier on the flax fiber layer by layer, piling up and preserving for 18-24h, wherein the dosage of the softening agent is 3% -5% of the mass of the flax fiber, uniformly spraying the emulsifier for 5-6h, and then uniformly spraying dyeing catalyst layer by layer, wherein the dosage of the dyeing catalyst is 0.03% -0.08% of the mass of the dye solution.
The flax fiber is pretreated, and the emulsifier and the dyeing catalyst are added to improve the spinnability and the dye uptake.
Furthermore, the flax fiber is prepared by fully separating and uniformly mixing the flax fiber raw materials by using a mechanical action.
The softening agent in the step (1) is prepared from amino silicone crude oil, an emulsifier, HAC and water according to a mass ratio of 40:20:1: 272. Firstly, stirring the amino-silicon crude oil and the emulsifier at a low speed for 20-30min, adding 2/3 water for stirring for 10-20min for the first time, adding 1/2HAC for stirring for 10-20min for the first time, adding the rest 1/3 water for stirring for 20-30min for the second time, adding the rest 1/2HAC for stirring for 20-30min for the second time until the mixture is uniform and transparent liquid; wherein the low-speed stirring is 800-.
The dyeing catalyst in the step (1) is prepared by the following method: mixing a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution and a saturated ferric chloride solution, uniformly stirring, heating to 75-80 ℃, continuously stirring for 40-45 minutes, standing to 23-25 ℃, filtering, washing to obtain a product, mixing the obtained product with a titanium dioxide sol, heating in a water bath at 40 ℃ for 3-4 hours, transferring to a vacuum drying box for drying, preheating a tubular furnace for 1-180 ℃, introducing nitrogen, heating to 520-530 ℃ at the speed of 2-2.5 ℃/minute, and carrying out heat preservation and calcination for 5-6 hours to obtain the dyeing catalyst.
The washing is carried out for 2-3 times by using secondary distilled water, and then is carried out for 3-4 times by using absolute ethyl alcohol.
The mass ratio of the sodium hydroxide solution to the saturated ferric chloride solution is 1:3-1: 4; the mass ratio of the product to the titanium dioxide sol is 1: 1.7-2; the mass concentration of the titanium dioxide sol is 35-40%.
The flax fiber has high short fiber rate, more coarse and hard fibers, certain amount of residual gum and impurities, and fragile and hard fibers, high rigidity and poor spinnability, so the flax fiber needs to be softened. The optimized process for emulsification pretreatment can increase the softness of the fiber, reduce the generation of static electricity, improve the spinnability, separate most of the flax fiber more finely and reduce the color difference between the degummed fibers. Because the problem that the linen fiber is dyed less deeply than the tencel fiber can occur after the tencel/hemp blended fabric is dyed, the dyeing rate of the linen fiber is increased by adopting the optimized process for dyeing and catalyzing treatment, and the problem of uneven dyeing in the subsequent dyeing process of the linen fiber and the tencel fiber is solved.
The mixed cooked strips in the step (2) are specifically as follows: and (3) carrying out a first opening picking procedure and a first cotton carding procedure on the flax fibers and the tencel fibers to prepare a first mixed sliver, then carrying out a second picking procedure and a second cotton carding procedure to prepare a second mixed sliver, and carrying out three drawing procedures on the prepared second mixed sliver to prepare the mixed drawn sliver.
Preferably, the first opening picking process in the step (2): the dosage of the flax fiber is 10-12% higher than that of the tencel fiber, the distance of the extending rib of the plucker beater blade is 5.5-6.5mm, the distance of each time the trolley descends is 1.5-2.5mm, the plucker beater speed is 950 plus 1050r/min, the plucker speed of the porcupine opener is 490 plus 510r/min, the rotational speed of the carding beater is 480 plus 520r/min, the comprehensive beater speed of the lap former is 950 plus 1100r/min, the spacing distance of dust rods is 10-12mm, the rotational speed of a lap roller is 10-12r/min, the ration of lap is 390 plus 410g/m, and the length of the lap is 30-32 m; a first cotton carding process: the cylinder speed is 285-315r/min, the licker-in speed is 660-690r/min, the doffer speed is 16.5-20r/min, the cylinder-cover plate five-point spacing is 0.25mm, 0.23mm and 0.25mm, the cylinder-doffer spacing is 0.18-0.2mm, the cotton feeding plate-licker-in spacing is 0.18-0.2mm, and the sliver ration is 22-25g/5 m.
More preferably, the first opening and picking process adopts the process principle of 'more loose and less beating, early falling and less crushing, slow speed and large gauge length'; in the first opening and picking process, due to the fact that the flax fibers are high in rigidity, brittle and hard and easy to break and high in impurity rate short fiber rate, the process principle of 'more loose, less beating, early falling, less breaking and low speed' is adopted, excessive beating on the fibers is avoided, and fiber damage is reduced. The large-spacing distance is adopted to meet the requirement of impurity falling, harmful impurities are removed before being hit as much as possible, and the impurities are prevented from being broken. In addition, as the impurity falling in each process is mainly hemp impurity, in order to ensure the proportion, the dosage of the flax fiber is 10 to 12 percent higher than that of the tencel fiber.
And (3) subjecting the prepared first mixed cotton roll to a first cotton carding process to prepare a first mixed sliver.
More preferably, the first carding process adopts the process principle of 'strong carding, large speed ratio and heavy basis weight'.
In the first cotton carding process, because the flax fibers still contain more impurities, hemp grains and short fibers, the carding of the fibers is further enhanced, on the basis of ensuring the carding effect, the speed of the licker-in is properly reduced, and a larger speed ratio is adopted, so that the fibers can be smoothly transferred, and the generation of neps is reduced. In addition, the flax fiber is thicker and brittle, the cohesion force is poor, and the 'weight ration' is adopted to increase the compactness of the fiber in the cotton sliver so that the cotton net does not float and becomes compact.
Preferably, the second opening picking process in the step (2): the distance of the plucker beater blade extending out of the rib is 5.4-6.4mm, the distance of each descending of the trolley is 1.5-2.0mm, the plucker beater speed is 940-; a second cotton carding process: the cylinder speed is 280-310r/min, the licker-in speed is 650-680r/min, the doffer speed is 16-19r/min, the cylinder-cover plate five-point spacing is 0.22mm, 0.20mm and 0.22mm, the cylinder-doffer spacing is 0.17-0.2mm, the cotton feeding plate-licker-in spacing is 0.17-0.2mm, and the raw sliver ration is 19-22g/5 m; the three drawing processes comprise a first drawing process, a second drawing process and a third drawing process.
Optionally, the first mixed sliver is further manually torn and then packaged, and a second mixed cotton roll is manufactured by adopting a second opening and picking process. The second opening and picking process adopts the process principle of more loosening and less beating, early falling and less breaking. In the second opening and picking process, because the color difference between the flax fibers and the tencel fibers is very large, the first mixed raw strips are manually torn and then packed, namely, the raw strips are rewound into strips by the bale plucker once again, so that the mixing between the flax fibers and the tencel fibers is increased, the color difference is reduced, and the yarn quality is better.
More preferably, the second carding process adopts the process principle of 'strong carding, slow speed and tight spacing'.
Preferably, in the first drawing process, 7 mixed raw slivers are adopted for drawing, the linear speed of a front roller is 170-180m/min, the gauge of the roller is 15mm and 19mm, the total draft multiple is 6.65-7.7 times, the draft multiple of a rear zone is 1.73 times, the first drawing ration is 20g/5m, and the diameter of a bell mouth is 3.4 mm; in the second drawing process, the linear speed of the front roller is 160-170m/min, 8 head passes are drawn and combined, the gauge length of the rollers is 15mm and 19mm, the total drafting multiple is 8.42 times, the drafting multiple of the rear zone is 1.54 times, the second drawing ration is 19g/5m, and the diameter of a bell mouth is 3.2 mm; in the three drawing processes, the linear velocity of the front roller is 150-160m/min, 8 secondary drawing is combined, the gauge length of the rollers is 14mm and 19mm, the total drafting multiple is 8.68 times, the drafting multiple of the rear zone is 1.36 times, the quantitative amount of the mixed drawn slivers is 17.5g/5m, and the diameter of a bell mouth is 3.0 mm.
More preferably, the three drawing processes all adopt the process principle of light weight, slow speed and smooth drawing.
In the three drawing processes, because the fibers are fluffy and poor in cohesion, the straightening parallelism of the fibers in the raw sliver is poor, a large number of hooks exist in the fibers, the straightening of the fibers of the rear hooks and the improvement of the fiber straightening are facilitated by adopting the process principle of 'forward drafting', and the front drawing adopts a larger back zone drafting multiple, so that the front hooks are facilitated to be straightened. The drafting multiple of the back zone of the three drawing processes is gradually reduced, the drafting multiple of the main zone is gradually increased, and the concentrated front zone drafting is beneficial to further improving the straightening parallelism of the fiber and the evenness of the drawn sliver. Because the color difference between the flax fibers and the tencel fibers is very large, three drawing passes are adopted for uniform mixing, 7 drawing passes are adopted for the first drawing pass, and 8 slivers are adopted for the second drawing pass and the third drawing pass for mixing, so that the improvement of the fiber mixing uniformity and the reduction of the uneven weight are facilitated.
Preferably, the specific process of the air-jet vortex spinning in the step (3) comprises the following steps: the method comprises the steps of feeding a mixed cooked sliver as an outer coating fiber into an air-jet vortex spinning machine, feeding a T400 filament as a core filament from a front roller through a filament guide device, wherein the fineness of the T400 filament is 30-150D, the filament feeding ratio is 0.94-1.05, the number of weights of a tension regulator is determined by adding 3-4 thin tension weights on two columns respectively, the total drafting multiple of a vortex spinning process is 260 times, the main drafting multiple is 30-35 times, the air pressure of a nozzle is 0.55-0.65 Mpa, and the air pressure led out of the nozzle is 0.25-0.35 Mpa.
The filament feeding ratio range is obtained after a preferable experiment, if the feeding ratio is smaller, the tension of the filament in a spinning section is small, and the filament is exposed greatly; if the feed ratio is too high, the tension of the spinning section is large, and the filaments can be kept in the center of the outer layer fiber, but the coating fastness of the outer layer fiber is not enough and the filaments are easy to fall off, so that the proper filament feed ratio is selected.
Advantageous effects
The tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn provided by the invention fully exerts the advantages of the tencel, the flax and the T400 composite filament, overcomes the defect of poor wrinkle resistance of the tencel and the flax, improves the spinnability of the flax fiber and the problem that the dyed flax fiber is lighter in color than the tencel fiber, solves the problem of reduction of the blending ratio of the flax fiber of the final product, and optimizes the blending process of the flax and the tencel fiber. The yarn forming structure is optimized, the yarn quality is better, and the economic value of the product is greatly improved under the condition of short-flow process of air-jet vortex spinning.
The invention relates to a production method of tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn. The method uses tencel and flax as the outer fiber after blending, combines the characteristics of soft hand feeling, soft luster and elegant suspension of tencel and the advantages of moisture absorption, ventilation, antibiosis, ultraviolet resistance and the like of flax, and overcomes the defect of rough and hard hand feeling of the flax. The T400 is used as the core yarn, so that the advantages of comfortable elasticity and good shape retention are fully exerted, and the defect of poor wrinkle resistance of tencel and flax is overcome. The dyeing catalyst and the softening agent are added in the flax fiber pretreatment stage, so that the spinnability of the flax fibers and the problem that the dyed flax fibers are lighter in color than tencel fibers are solved. In the step of preparing the first mixed sliver by the flax fiber and the tencel fiber through the first opening and picking process and the first cotton carding process, the dosage of the flax fiber is 12 percent higher than that of the modal fiber in proportion, and the problem of reduction of the blending ratio of the flax fiber of the final product is solved. The first mixed raw strips are manually torn and then packaged, namely, the first mixed raw strips are re-fed into a bale plucker and are coiled into strips again, so that the mixing between the flax and tencel fibers is increased, the problem of uneven dyeing is reduced, and the yarn quality is better. The whole flax/tencel blended yarn process is optimized, the yarn structure is optimized, the yarn quality is better, and the tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn with excellent performance is prepared. The air-jet vortex spinning process has the advantages of short flow, extremely high spinning speed, good evenness, high spinning efficiency and good economic value.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the production of tencel/flax vortex spun stretch core-spun yarn.
FIG. 2 is a fitting curve graph of the linen fiber dye uptake rate corresponding to different amounts of dyeing catalyst.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to the following specific examples. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
The flax fiber is purchased from the Hidecounty Rassilia Spiriferis industry Co Ltd, the bleached flax fiber has the first grade of product, the fiber length is 30-35 mm, the fiber fineness is 1.0-1.5mm, the impurity content is less than 1.0, the fiber strength is more than 255cn, and the moisture regain is about 12%. Tencel fiber is purchased from Lanjing company, white short fiber, and has the advantages of excellent product grade, 38mm fiber length and 1.3dtex fiber fineness. T400 spandex was purchased from DuPont and was 78dtex/32 f.
The softening agent is prepared from amino silicone crude oil, an emulsifier, HAC and water according to the mass ratio of 40:20:1: 272. The amino silicone crude oil is purchased from Guangzhou Honghua chemical industry Co., Ltd, model H8002, and execution standard GB-900128, and the content of effective substances is more than 99.9%. The emulsifier is purchased from the Federal Fine chemical Co., Ltd in Guangdong, model T60, and the content of effective substances is more than 99%. HAC sodium acetate trihydrate is purchased from diversified plastics Co., Ltd, Dongguan city, model 0505, and the content of effective substances is 58-60%.
The titanium dioxide sol is purchased from Hangzhou Zhi Ti purification science and technology limited company, model VK-TA33, and the crystal form is anatase.
Dye: reactive black, dye type: 150% of active black KN-B (strength 150), purchased from the Ronggang region Lyon dye business of Shenzhen city;
the test apparatus and method: the USTER TESTER-5 type yarn evenness TESTER tests the details, the slubby, the cotton knots and the yarn evenness of the yarns, the testing speed is 400m/min, and the testing time is 1 min. The YYG068C type full-automatic single yarn strength tester is used for testing the elongation at break and the breaking strength, the stretching speed is 5m/min, the clamping distance of the sample is 500mm, and the pre-tension is 0.5 cN.
Example 1
Taking the example of producing 19.7tex tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn on an MVS861 type vortex spinning machine additionally provided with a filament feeding device, the core-spun yarn consists of a central T400 composite elastic filament and outer-coated short fibers, the outer-coated short fibers consist of tencel and flax according to the mass percentage of 7:3, the mass ratio of the outer-coated fibers to the T400 composite elastic filament is 5:1, and the final product needs to be dyed black.
The specific scheme of the production is as follows: the flax fiber is pretreated to improve the spinnability; carrying out opening and picking process and cotton carding process on the flax fiber and tencel fiber to prepare a mixed sliver; the prepared mixed raw slivers are subjected to three drawing procedures to prepare mixed cooked slivers; feeding the prepared mixed drawn sliver into an air-jet vortex spinning machine, and feeding T400 filament from a front roller through a filament guide device to prepare tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn.
The method specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) pretreatment of flax fibers: adding softening agent and dyeing catalyst to raise its spinnability and dyeing rate, mechanically separating and mixing flax fiber material, and adding softening agent and dyeing catalyst. Softening agents are uniformly sprayed on the flax raw materials layer by layer to be piled up for curing for 18 hours, so that the spinnability of the flax fibers is improved. The dosage of the softening agent is 4% of the mass of the flax fiber, after the emulsifier is uniformly sprayed for 6 hours, the dyeing catalyst is uniformly sprayed layer by layer, and the dosage of the dyeing catalyst is 0.07% of the mass of the dye liquor.
Preparation of a softening agent: the softening agent is prepared from amino silicone crude oil, an emulsifier, HAC and water according to a mass ratio of 40:20:1: 272. Firstly, stirring the amino-silicon crude oil and the emulsifier at a low speed (800-.
Preparation of dyeing catalyst: mixing a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution and a saturated ferric chloride solution according to a mass ratio of 1:3.5, uniformly stirring, heating to 75 ℃, continuously stirring for 45 minutes, standing to 25 ℃, filtering, washing for 2 times by using secondary distilled water after filtering, washing for 3 times by using absolute ethyl alcohol, mixing the obtained product with titanium dioxide sol, heating in a water bath at 40 ℃ for 4 hours, transferring to a vacuum drying box for drying for 6 hours, preheating for 1 hour to 180 ℃ by using a tubular furnace, introducing nitrogen, heating to 520 ℃ at a speed of 2.5 ℃/minute, keeping the temperature and calcining for 5 hours to obtain the dyeing catalyst.
(2) A first opening and picking process: the dosage of the flax fiber is 12 percent higher than that of the tencel fiber, the distance of the blade of a beater of a plucker extending out of the rib is 6.0mm, the distance of each descending of a trolley is 2.0mm, the speed of the beater of the plucker is 980r/min, the speed of the beater of a porcupine opener is 500r/min, the rotating speed of a carding needle beater is 510r/min, the comprehensive beating speed of a lap former is 1050r/min, the spacing distance of dust bars is 11mm, the rotating speed of a lap roller is 12r/min, the ration of a lap is 390g/m, and the length of the lap is 32 m.
(3) A first cotton carding process: the cylinder speed is 300r/min, the licker-in speed is 680/min, the doffer speed is 19r/min, the cylinder-cover plate five-point spacing is 0.25mm, 0.23mm and 0.25mm, the cylinder-doffer spacing is 0.2mm, the cotton feeding plate-licker-in spacing is 0.2mm, and the sliver ration is 22g/5 m.
(4) The sliver produced in the first cotton carding process is manually torn and then packaged, and the sliver is opened and cleaned in the second cotton opening process: the distance of the blade of the beater of the plucker extending out of the rib is 5.5mm, the distance of the trolley descending each time is 1.5mm, the speed of the beater of the plucker is 950r/min, the speed of the beater of the porcupine opener is 480r/min, the rotating speed of the carding needle beater is 470r/min, the comprehensive beating speed of the lap winder is 960r/min, the spacing distance of dust bars is 10mm, the rotating speed of a lap roller is 11r/min, the ration of the lap is 380g/m, and the length of the lap is 30 m.
(5) A second cotton carding process: the cylinder speed is 290r/min, the licker-in speed is 660/min, the doffer speed is 18r/min, the cylinder-cover plate five-point spacing is 0.22mm, 0.20mm and 0.22mm, the cylinder-doffer spacing is 0.18mm, the cotton feeding plate-licker-in spacing is 0.18mm, and the sliver ration is 20g/5 m.
(6) Three drawing procedures: the method comprises a first drawing process, a second drawing process and a third drawing process, wherein in the first drawing process, 7 mixed raw slivers are adopted for combination, the linear speed of a front roller is 175m/min, the roller gauge is 15mm and 19mm, the total draft multiple is 7.0 times, the draft multiple of a rear area is 1.73 times, the first drawing ration is 20g/5m, and the diameter of a bell mouth is 3.4 mm; in the second drawing process, the linear speed of a front roller is 165m/min, 8 head drawing lines are combined, the roller gauge is 15mm and 19mm, the total draft multiple is 8.42 times, the draft multiple of a rear zone is 1.54 times, the second drawing ration is 19g/5m, and the diameter of a bell mouth is 3.2 mm; in the three drawing processes, the linear velocity of the front roller is 155m/min, 8 two drawing lines are combined, the roller gauge is 14mm and 19mm, the total drafting multiple is 8.68 times, the drafting multiple of the rear zone is 1.36 times, the quantitative amount of the mixed cooked strips is 17.5g/5m, and the diameter of a bell mouth is 3.0 mm.
(7) Air-jet vortex spinning core-spun yarn: the mixed drawn sliver is used as the outer fiber to feed into an air jet vortex spinning machine, T400 filament as core filament is fed from a front roller through a filament guide device, the fineness of the T400 filament is 30D, the filament feeding ratio is 1.01, the weight number of a tension regulator is determined by respectively adding 3 thin tension weights on two columns, the total draft multiple of the vortex spinning process is 213 times, the main draft multiple is 35 times, the air pressure of a nozzle is 0.6Mpa, and the air pressure led out from the nozzle is 0.3 Mpa.
(8) The dyeing process comprises the following steps: the reactive dye is a two-bath method, the consumption of the dye (reactive black) is 2% of the weight of the fabric, the bath ratio is 1:13, 60g of anhydrous sodium sulphate is added into each liter of dye liquor after the dye and the fabric are soaked for 10min, 20g of sodium carbonate is added into each liter of dye liquor after 30min, the color fixing temperature is 65 ℃, the color fixing time is 60min, and then the fabric is washed, soap boiled and dried.
Through detection, the tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn produced by the method has the following indexes:
Figure BDA0002962277030000081
the appearance form of the tencel/flax vortex spun elastic core-spun yarn produced by the method is shown in figure 1 through microscope observation, the coating effect is excellent, and no core leakage exists. The dosage of the dyeing catalyst in the embodiment is 0.07 percent of the mass of the dye liquor, the dye uptake is improved by 20 percent compared with the dye liquor without the dyeing catalyst, the final product fabric is dyed into black, no obvious shade crosspiece exists on the cloth surface, and the product can meet the requirements of customers.
CN 112064159A discloses a flax fiber blended yarn and a production process thereof, the method aims to uniformly mix flax fibers, stretch yarns and tencel fibers by using wet spinning, and due to the difference of dyeing properties of the flax fibers and the tencel, the problem that the flax fibers are lighter than the tencel after dyeing of the tencel and hemp blended fabric is solved, and a cloth cover crosspiece is presented. The colors of the flax fibers, the stretch yarn fibers and the tencel are selected and matched according to the yarn requirements, and the problem of different fiber dye-uptake rates is not solved. According to the invention, the dyeing catalyst is added in the flax pretreatment stage, so that the dye uptake of flax fibers is improved, and cloth cover crosspieces generated by different dye uptake after dyeing of the tencel and ramie blended fabric are overcome. And through a large number of experiments, a curve diagram of the improvement of the dye uptake of the flax fibers after the flax fibers are pretreated by using the dyeing catalyst is obtained, and the optimal use range of the use amount is obtained. The corresponding amount of the dyeing catalyst can be selected according to the shade of the color of the final product.
Comparative example 1
Taking the example of producing 19.7tex tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn on an MVS861 type vortex spinning machine additionally provided with a filament feeding device, the core-spun yarn consists of a central T400 composite elastic filament and outer-coated short fibers, the outer-coated short fibers consist of tencel and flax according to the mass percentage of 7:3, the mass ratio of the outer-coated fibers to the T400 composite elastic filament is 5:1, and the final product needs to be dyed black. The whole spinning process flow and the spinning process parameters are the same as those of example 1, except that in the comparative example 1, the self-made dyeing catalyst is replaced by the dyeing catalyst commonly used in the market, and the dyeing catalyst is purchased from Shanghai Senshi chemical engineering technology Co., Ltd, and the components are benzyl alcohol: butyl acetate is 2:3, and the dosage of the dyeing catalyst is 0.07 percent of the mass of the dye liquor.
Through detection, the tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn produced by the method has the following indexes:
Figure BDA0002962277030000082
the dosage of the dyeing catalyst in the embodiment is 0.07 percent of the mass of the dye liquor, the dye uptake is improved by 13 percent compared with that of the dye liquor without the dyeing catalyst, the final product fabric is dyed into black, and the cloth cover has a secret dyeing depth slub effect.
Compared with example 1, the core spun yarn has basically the same indexes, but the dye uptake is only improved by 13 percent, which is different from the dye uptake obtained by the home-made dyeing catalyst used in example 1 by 7 percent.
Comparative example 2
Taking the example of producing 19.7tex tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn on an MVS861 type vortex spinning machine additionally provided with a filament feeding device, the core-spun yarn consists of a central T400 composite elastic filament and outer-coated short fibers, the outer-coated short fibers consist of tencel and flax according to the mass percentage of 7:3, the mass ratio of the outer-coated fibers to the T400 composite elastic filament is 5:1, and the final product needs to be dyed black. The whole spinning process flow and the spinning process parameters are the same as example 1, except that this comparative example 1 does not use a softener during the pretreatment of the fibrilia.
Through detection, the tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn produced by the method has the following indexes:
Figure BDA0002962277030000091
in the comparative example 2, because a softening agent is not used in the fibrilia pretreatment process, the spinnability of the whole spinning process is reduced, the problems of web breakage, roller adhesion, broken ends increase and the like occur in the spinning process, and finally, the problems of coarse details, obvious neps increase, evenness deterioration and the like on the finished yarn are reflected.

Claims (10)

1. The tencel/flax vortex spun elastic core-spun yarn is characterized by consisting of a central T400 composite elastic filament and an outer wrapping fiber, wherein the outer wrapping fiber consists of tencel and flax.
2. A core spun yarn as claimed in claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the covering fiber to the T400 composite elastic filament is 4:1 to 6: 1; the outer wrapping fiber comprises tencel fiber and flax fiber according to the mass ratio of 8:3-7: 4.
3. A method for preparing tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn comprises the following steps:
(1) pretreating flax fibers by using an emulsifier and a dyeing catalyst to obtain pretreated flax fibers;
(2) carrying out raw drawing on flax fibers and tencel fibers, and drawing to obtain mixed cooked strips;
(3) feeding the mixed drawn sliver obtained in the step (2) into an air-jet vortex spinning machine, and feeding the T400 filament from a front roller through a filament guide device to obtain the tencel/flax vortex spinning elastic core-spun yarn.
4. The preparation method according to claim 3, wherein the pretreatment in the step (1) is specifically: spraying softening agent on the flax fiber layer by layer, piling and preserving for 18-24h, wherein the dosage of the softening agent is 3% -5% of the mass of the flax fiber, uniformly spraying the softening agent for 5-6h, and then uniformly spraying dyeing catalyst layer by layer, wherein the dosage of the dyeing catalyst is 0.03% -0.08% of the mass of the dye solution.
5. The preparation method according to claim 3, wherein the softener prepared in the step (1) is prepared from crude aminosilicone oil, an emulsifier, HAC and water according to a mass ratio of 40:20:1:272, and specifically comprises the following steps: firstly, stirring the amino silicon crude oil and the emulsifier for 20-30min, adding 2/3 water for the first time, stirring for 10-20min, adding 1/2HAC for the first time, stirring for 10-20min, adding the rest 1/3 water for the second time, stirring for 20-30min, adding the rest 1/2HAC for the second time, and stirring for 20-30min to obtain a uniform transparent liquid.
6. The method according to claim 3, wherein the dyeing catalyst in the step (1) is prepared by: mixing a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution and a saturated ferric chloride solution, uniformly stirring, heating to 75-80 ℃, continuously stirring for 40-45 minutes, standing to 23-25 ℃, filtering, washing, then mixing the obtained product with titanium dioxide sol, heating in a water bath at 40 ℃ for 3-4 hours, drying, preheating to 180 ℃, introducing nitrogen, heating to 520-phase 530 ℃ at the speed of 2-2.5 ℃/minute, and carrying out heat preservation and calcination for 5-6 hours to obtain the dyeing catalyst.
7. The preparation method according to claim 6, wherein the mass ratio of the sodium hydroxide solution to the saturated ferric chloride solution is 1:3 to 1: 4; the mass ratio of the product to the titanium dioxide sol is 1: 1.7-2; the mass concentration of the titanium dioxide sol is 35-40%.
8. The method according to claim 3, wherein the mixed cooked noodles in the step (2) are prepared by: and (3) carrying out a first opening picking procedure and a first cotton carding procedure on the flax fibers and the tencel fibers to prepare a first mixed sliver, then carrying out a second picking procedure and a second cotton carding procedure to prepare a second mixed sliver, and carrying out three drawing procedures on the prepared second mixed sliver to prepare the mixed drawn sliver.
9. The production method according to claim 8, wherein the first opening picking process: the dosage of the flax fiber is 10-12% higher than that of the tencel fiber, the distance of the extending rib of the plucker beater blade is 5.5-6.5mm, the distance of each time the trolley descends is 1.5-2.5mm, the plucker beater speed is 950 plus 1050r/min, the plucker speed of the porcupine opener is 490 plus 510r/min, the rotational speed of the carding beater is 480 plus 520r/min, the comprehensive beater speed of the lap former is 950 plus 1100r/min, the spacing distance of dust rods is 10-12mm, the rotational speed of a lap roller is 10-12r/min, the ration of lap is 390 plus 410g/m, and the length of the lap is 30-32 m; a first cotton carding process: the cylinder speed is 285-315r/min, the licker-in speed is 660-690r/min, the doffer speed is 16.5-20r/min, the cylinder-cover plate five-point spacing is 0.25mm, 0.23mm and 0.25mm, the cylinder-doffer spacing is 0.18-0.2mm, the cotton feeding plate-licker-in spacing is 0.18-0.2mm, and the sliver ration is 22-25g/5 m; the second opening and picking process: the distance of the plucker beater blade extending out of the rib is 5.4-6.4mm, the distance of each descending of the trolley is 1.5-2.0mm, the plucker beater speed is 940-; a second cotton carding process: the cylinder speed is 280-310r/min, the licker-in speed is 650-680r/min, the doffer speed is 16-19r/min, the cylinder-cover plate five-point spacing is 0.22mm, 0.20mm and 0.22mm, the cylinder-doffer spacing is 0.17-0.2mm, the cotton feeding plate-licker-in spacing is 0.17-0.2mm, and the raw sliver ration is 19-22g/5 m; the three drawing processes comprise a first drawing process, a second drawing process and a third drawing process.
10. The preparation method according to claim 3, wherein the specific process of the air-jet vortex spinning in the step (3): the fineness of the T400 filament is 30-150D, the filament feeding ratio is 0.94-1.05, the weight number of the tension regulator is determined by adding 3-4 thin tension weights on two columns respectively, the total draft multiple of the vortex spinning process is 120-260 times, the main draft multiple is 30-35 times, the air pressure of a nozzle is 0.55-0.65 Mpa, and the air pressure led out from the nozzle is 0.25-0.35 Mpa.
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