CN101736483B - Preparation method of kuralon fiber finely woven fabric - Google Patents
Preparation method of kuralon fiber finely woven fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN101736483B CN101736483B CN200910232343XA CN200910232343A CN101736483B CN 101736483 B CN101736483 B CN 101736483B CN 200910232343X A CN200910232343X A CN 200910232343XA CN 200910232343 A CN200910232343 A CN 200910232343A CN 101736483 B CN101736483 B CN 101736483B
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Abstract
A kuralon fiber finely woven fabric is characterized by comprising the following components by weight percent: 70-80% of wool or wool and other fibers and 20-30% of kuralon fiber; and the preparation method comprises the following steps: 1) selecting raw materials; 2) recombing; 3) spinning; 4) weaving; and 5) dyeing and finishing. The kuralon fiber finely woven fabric produced by the method of the invention has bulky and soft hand feeling and the hollowness is up to 20-30%. The selection of kuralon is reasonable, the mixing method ensures that the kuralon fiber finely woven fabric can be smoothly spun, the spinnability is good, the fiber is easy to draw, the evenness is good, the fault is less, the weaving efficiency is high, and the characteristics that the fabric is hollow and the handfeeling is bulky and soft, of the kuralon fiber finely woven fabric can be better embodied after finishing.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the wool textile technology field, grand fiber worsted fabric of particularly a kind of cola and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Worsted fabric is the clothing lining of high-grade Western-style clothes, leisure, fashionable dress, jacket and uniform, and present the development trend of top grade, light book, comfortable, fashion, therefore need spinning high grade yarn, single-warp single-abb yarn etc., but, for high grade yarn, use the raw wool fineness thin first, cost height, raw material resources are limited, and spinning, difficulty of weaving are big etc.; For single warp thread kind, be difficult to especially weave.Simultaneously, existing market, especially Japanese market, the quality in kind plentiful, soft to worsted fabric is popular especially.For improving spinnability, the weavability of single-warp single-abb kind and high grade yarn kind, for spinning more high-count yarn, for reducing the raw material use cost, adopt the wool yarn of higher of low-grade raw wool spinning, obtain a kind of worsted fabric of special plentiful, soft quality in kind simultaneously, wool industry adopts the soluble polyvinylalcohol companion to spin, to satisfy the requirement in market.Laughable grand fiber is a kind of soluble polyvinylalcohol fiber that Japanese Kuraray company produces, and this polyvinyl alcohol fibre is a solubilized in the water of uniform temperature.Can adopt that mixed with fibers such as laughable grand fiber and wool are spinned, weaved, the back arrangement, and when the arrangement of back, cola be swelled fibrolysis and fall.
But, the water moisture regain is big because laughable grand fiber is met, moisture absorption manyly can be dissolved, expansion, contraction etc., be difficult to spinning, and laughable grand fiber spinning is difficult to drawing-off, therefore spinning difficulty, and spinnability is poor, the spinning bar is done and is worsened, fault is many, and difficulty of dimension is moved back in dyeing and finishing sometimes, and dyeing and finishing technology can not embody and bring into play special plentiful, the soft quality in kind that laughable grand fiber companion spins worsted fabric well.
Summary of the invention
At the deficiency of the grand fiber worsted fabric preparation method of above-mentioned cola, the object of the present invention is to provide the spinning, weave and the cola of back arrangement swells fiber worsted fabric and preparation method thereof of a kind of plentiful, soft, hollow by the grand fiber companion of cola.
Purpose of the present invention realizes by following technical solution:
A kind of cola swells the fiber worsted fabric, and by weight percentage: wool or wool add other fibers 70-80%, laughable grand fiber 20-30%.
Other above-mentioned fibers are natural fabric, chemical fibre or string; Wherein: natural fabric is cashmere, spun silk; Chemical fibre is terylene, polyamide fibre, day silk, viscose glue, Lycra; String is ramie, flax.
Above-mentioned cola swells the fiber worsted fabric, and the diffusive degree of hollowness is fine in the yarn, and degree of hollowness reaches 20-30%.Laughable grand fiber worsted fabric feel is plentiful especially, soft.
A kind of preparation method of soluble polyvinylalcohol fiber worsted fabric may further comprise the steps: 1) material choice, 2) recombing, 3) spinning, 4) weave, 5) dyeing and finishing.
1), material choice: by weight percentage, get 20-30%, fibre length is 51-78cm, fineness is that wool or the wool of grand fiber of the cola of 1.5-2.5 DENIER and 70-80% adds other fibers, wherein: wool adds in other fibers, wool accounts for 20-80%, other fibers account for 80-20%, and is standby;
2), recombing:
(1), silver mixing: the silver mixing of laughable grand fiber and wool blended product: wool carries out silver mixing earlier, add and crude oil and water, and silver mixing is after fully deposit more than 24 hours, treat that water and crude oil evenly spread, permeate after, again with the grand mixed with fibers silver mixing of the cola of above ratio;
Laughable grand fiber and wool add the silver mixing of other mixed with fibers products: official regain is carried out silver mixing greater than 2% other fibers and wool, add and crude oil and water, and silver mixing makes water and crude oil evenly spread, permeate after fully deposit more than 24 hours; Official regain is carried out silver mixing smaller or equal to 2% other fibers and laughable grand fiber, do not add and crude oil and water; Again above-mentioned official regain is mixed with the blended sliver of laughable grand fiber smaller or equal to other fibers of 2% greater than the blended sliver of other fibers of 2% and wool and official regain, do not add and crude oil and water.Form mixed bar;
(2) recombing shopwork humidity is controlled at 65-70%, and adopts negative ion humidification device, controlled humidity;
(3) add and crude oil employing anion fuel loading system, add, fully atomize with crude oil, water;
3), spinning:
(1) spinning does not add and crude oil and water;
(2), rove is deposited: the silver mixing rove is put into the rove storehouse, and the rove storehouse is humidification not, deposits naturally 7-9 days, fully eliminates the static and the internal stress of rove;
(3), yarn steaming: dress falls to insert with the yarn bobbin concentric reducer during cheese, and every layer of yarn cover with demittons, uses the yarn steaming machine yarn steaming under the condition of 70 ℃ of temperature, time 80-120 minute;
4), weave:
(1), not starching of warping;
(2), weave under the grey cloth behind the machine not doff cloth rewinder roll, and directly carry out the back arrangement to dyeing and finishing.
5), dyeing and finishing:
(1), weaves the direct decatizing of grey cloth: open type decatizing or jar steaming;
(2), HEAT SETTING: the grey cloth for containing chemical fibre such as terylene, after grey cloth decatizing, carry out HEAT SETTING, or adopt grey cloth elder generation HEAT SETTING again through above-mentioned grey cloth decatizing;
(3), open washing connection boils (one): after above-mentioned two step operations, adopt the open washing connection to boil, add chemical style-setting agent 342,95-100 ℃, speed 15-25m/min; And can not singly boil or two boiling;
(4), move back dimension: the grey cloth after the open washing connection boils (1) is in rope dyeing machine, and 80-85 ℃ is moved back dimension, dissolves laughable grand fiber;
(5) braying: make clean fabric, and more plentiful, soft.
(6), open washing connection boils (two): add chemical style-setting agent 342,95-100 ℃, speed 15-25m/min, the open washing connection boils;
(7), baking: big overfeeding 10-15%;
(8), decatizing: adopt little decatizing cloth tension force, little decatizing pressure carries out decatizing, prevents that the fabric degree of hollowness from reducing;
(9), preshrunk: carry out preshrunk after the decatizing, vapour amount 50-100%, speed 10-20m/min make yarn, its expansion, shrink, and feel is further plentiful, hollow.
The present invention, the cola of institute's Development and Production swells the fiber worsted fabric, and good hand feeling, softness, degree of hollowness reach 20-30%.Laughable grand the selection rationally, the method for sneaking into has guaranteed the smooth spinning of laughable grand fiber worsted fabric, good spinnability, be easy to drawing-off, bar makes a good job of, the yarn defect is few, the weaving efficiency height, by back arrangement, embodied laughable grand companion better and spun worsted fabric hollow, plentiful, soft characteristics.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1:
Present embodiment production be that the grand fiber worsted fabric of a kind of cola is the laughable grand fancy suiting of full wool, its preparation method is: 1, material choice: wool fineness 18.5um, 70%, laughable grand 2.5D, 30%, the finished product quality in kind is very plentiful, soft, and yarn diffusive degree of hollowness reaches 30% in the fabric.
2, recombing: silver mixing 1-silver mixing 2-silver mixing 3-slubbing grilling-two road grilling-combing-three road grilling-extreme trace: silver mixing 1:18.5um wool list comb adds and crude oil, adopt the anion fuel loading system, the spraying of refueling is vaporific thin especially, add with crude oil after build with cloth and to deposit more than 24 hours; Silver mixing 2: will add and the laughable grand hair of piecing together of the wool adding of crude oil; Silver mixing 3: the hair behind the assembly hair, the fully silver mixing mixing again of laughable grand bar; The negative ion humidification device is adopted in the workshop, and controlled humidity is at 65-70%.General recombing method is adopted in other recombing.
3, spinning: VSN silver mixing-VSN scalp acupuncture-VSN two pins-SH24 DSN-SHS24-RF5 RF4 spun yarn-from doff-doubling-double twisting-yarn steaming
A, silver mixing do not add and crude oil;
The negative ion humidification device is adopted in b, workshop especially, controlled humidity 65-70%;
C, rove storehouse be humidification not, fully deposits naturally 7 days, eliminates static and internal stress;
70 ℃ of d, yarn steaming temperature, 90 minutes time;
The bobbin concentric reducer fell to insert when e, yarn steaming inserted yarn, laughable grand fibrolysis when avoiding the yarn concentric reducer near the water droplet of collision chance mutually, the cooling after coagulation forms the hard thing of white, secondly every layer of yarn covers with demittons, the water droplet that anti-plastic tube is met cold generation directly splashes in the yarn, make laughable grand fibrolysis, solidify the hard thing of formation white; General spinning method is adopted in other spinning.
4, weave:
A, warping can not starching.
Doff cloth rewinder roll not after b, grey cloth are weaved, and directly carry out the back arrangement to dyeing and finishing;
C, other technologies can adopt general known weaving technology.
5, dyeing and finishing: grey cloth decatizing-open washing connection boils (1)-move back dimension-braying-open washing and joins and boil (2)-baking-middle inspection-ripe repairing-cropping-softness-decatizing-preshrunk;
A, grey cloth decatizing: open type decatizing, interior vapour 8 minutes, outer vapour 3 minutes was taken out cold 10 minutes;
B, open washing connection boil (1): add 342,95 ℃ of chemical style-setting agents, 20m/min;
C, in rope dyeing machine, 85 ℃, move back dimension;
D, open washing connection boil (2) and add 342,95 ℃ of chemical style-setting agents, 20m/min;
E, baking, overfeeding 10%;
Little decatizing cloth tension force is adopted in f, decatizing, and little decatizing pressure carries out decatizing;
Carry out slight preshrunk after g, the decatizing, vapour amount 50%, speed 10m/min.
Other technologies can adopt general dyeing and finishing technology.
Embodiment 2:
The grand fiber worsted fabric of a kind of cola of present embodiment production is washed laughable grand valetin for hair, wool fineness 19.5um, 39%, terylene 2.5D, 36%, laughable grand 2.5D, 25%, the finished product quality in kind is very plentiful, soft, and yarn diffusive degree of hollowness reaches 24% in the fabric.
Laughable grand fiber is sneaked in recombing and is carried out.
The recombing technological process is: silver mixing 1-silver mixing 2-silver mixing 3-slubbing grilling-two road grilling-combing-three road grilling-finisher gilling.
Silver mixing 1:19.5um wool list comb adds and crude oil, adopts the anion fuel loading system, and the spraying of refueling is vaporific thin especially, add with crude oil after with cloth build deposited 24 hours and more than.2.5D terylene and laughable grand mixed with fibers do not add and crude oil.
Silver mixing 2: wool is pieced together the hair silver mixing with the terylene bar that adds laughable grand fiber, does not add and crude oil.
Silver mixing 3: piece together hair behind the hair, wash, the fully silver mixing mixing again of laughable grand bar.
General recombing method is adopted in other recombing.
Spinning is with embodiment 1.
Weave with embodiment 1.
Dyeing and finishing: technological process: grey cloth decatizing-HEAT SETTING-open washing connection boils (1)-move back dimension-braying-open washing and joins and boil (2)-baking-middle inspection-ripe repairing-cropping-softness-decatizing-preshrunk;
Heat setting process: 170 ℃, 45 seconds.
Other technologies are with embodiment 1.
The present invention can also have other embodiments, step and equipment, and raw material comprises all textile raw materials, comprises all soluble polyvinylalcohol short fibers, and kind comprises various combing wool weaving products, and various functional treatment lining.And the present invention looks the difference of kind and specification, adjusts production technology, in this not statement one by one.
Claims (3)
1. the preparation method of the grand fiber worsted fabric of a cola by weight percentage, may further comprise the steps: 1) material choice, 2) recombing, 3) spinning, 4) weave, 5) dyeing and finishing, it is characterized in that:
1), material choice: getting the 20-30% fibre length is 51-78cm, fineness is that wool or the wool of grand fiber of the cola of 1.5-2.5 DENIER and 70-80% adds other fibers, wherein: wool adds in other fibers, and wool accounts for 20-80%, other fibers account for 80-20%, and is standby;
2), recombing:
(1), silver mixing: the silver mixing of laughable grand fiber and wool blended product: wool carries out silver mixing earlier, add and crude oil and water, and silver mixing is after fully deposit more than 24 hours, treat that water and crude oil evenly spread, permeate after, again with the grand mixed with fibers silver mixing of the cola of above ratio;
Laughable grand fiber and wool add the silver mixing of other mixed with fibers products: official regain is carried out silver mixing greater than 2% other fibers and wool, add and crude oil and water, and silver mixing makes water and crude oil evenly spread, permeate after fully deposit more than 24 hours; Official regain is carried out silver mixing smaller or equal to 2% other fibers and laughable grand fiber, do not add and crude oil and water; Again above-mentioned official regain is mixed with the blended sliver of laughable grand fiber smaller or equal to other fibers of 2% greater than the blended sliver of other fibers of 2% and wool and official regain, do not add and crude oil and water, form mixed bar;
(2), recombing shopwork humidity is controlled at 65-70%, and adopts negative ion humidification device, controlled humidity;
(3), add and crude oil adopts the anion fuel loading system, add, fully atomize with crude oil, water;
3), spinning:
(1), spinning does not add and crude oil and water;
(2), rove is deposited: the silver mixing rove is put into the rove storehouse, and the rove storehouse is humidification not, deposits naturally 7-9 days, fully eliminates the static and the internal stress of rove;
(3), yarn steaming: dress falls to insert with the yarn bobbin concentric reducer during cheese, and every layer of yarn cover with demittons, uses the yarn steaming machine yarn steaming under the condition of 70 ℃ of temperature, time 80-120 minute;
4), weave:
(1), not starching of warping;
(2), weave under the grey cloth behind the machine not doff cloth rewinder roll, and directly carry out the back arrangement to dyeing and finishing;
5), dyeing and finishing:
(1), weaves the direct decatizing of grey cloth: open type decatizing or jar steaming;
(2), HEAT SETTING:, after grey cloth decatizing, carry out HEAT SETTING for the grey cloth that contains terylene;
(3), open washing connection boils (one): after above-mentioned two step operations, adopt the open washing connection to boil, add chemical style-setting agent 342,95-100 ℃, speed 15-25m/min;
(4), move back dimension: the grey cloth after the open washing connection boils () is in rope dyeing machine, and 80-85 ℃ is moved back dimension, dissolves laughable grand fiber;
(5) braying: make clean fabric, and more plentiful, soft;
(6), open washing connection boils (two): add chemical style-setting agent 342,95-100 ℃, speed 15-25m/min, the open washing connection boils;
(7), baking: big overfeeding 10-15%;
(8), decatizing: adopt little decatizing cloth tension force, little decatizing pressure carries out decatizing, prevents that the fabric degree of hollowness from reducing;
(9), preshrunk: carry out preshrunk after the decatizing, vapour amount 50-100%, speed 10-20m/min make yarn, its expansion, shrink, and feel is further plentiful, hollow.
2. the preparation method of the grand fiber worsted fabric of a kind of cola according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: other fibers in the described step 1) are natural fabric, chemical fibre; Wherein: natural fabric is cashmere, spun silk; Chemical fibre is terylene, polyamide fibre, day silk, viscose glue, Lycra.
3. the preparation method of the grand fiber worsted fabric of a kind of cola according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the HEAT SETTING in the described step 5): for the grey cloth that contains terylene, adopt grey cloth elder generation HEAT SETTING again through grey cloth decatizing.
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| CN103774319B (en) * | 2012-10-18 | 2015-08-26 | 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 | The production method of spun silk wool blend worsted fabric |
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