CN105586687A - Cotton-covered spandex T400 twin-core elastic series shell fabric - Google Patents
Cotton-covered spandex T400 twin-core elastic series shell fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN105586687A CN105586687A CN201610039997.0A CN201610039997A CN105586687A CN 105586687 A CN105586687 A CN 105586687A CN 201610039997 A CN201610039997 A CN 201610039997A CN 105586687 A CN105586687 A CN 105586687A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 89
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 44
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 44
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- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 10
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- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 29
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- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims description 23
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- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 14
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- 238000011109 contamination Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- COHYTHOBJLSHDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N indigo powder Natural products N1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C1=C1C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2N1 COHYTHOBJLSHDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 claims description 12
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- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 108010059892 Cellulase Proteins 0.000 claims description 9
- 229940106157 cellulase Drugs 0.000 claims description 9
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- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
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- 235000015097 nutrients Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- SUKJFIGYRHOWBL-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium hypochlorite Chemical compound [Na+].Cl[O-] SUKJFIGYRHOWBL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002002 slurry Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000007667 floating Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000009999 singeing Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 240000007594 Oryza sativa Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000007164 Oryza sativa Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 3
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- 239000010903 husk Substances 0.000 claims description 3
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- 238000009736 wetting Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 206010013786 Dry skin Diseases 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 abstract description 3
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- 239000000806 elastomer Substances 0.000 description 4
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- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
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- PJKVFARRVXDXAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-naphthaldehyde Chemical compound C1=CC=CC2=CC(C=O)=CC=C21 PJKVFARRVXDXAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KXDHJXZQYSOELW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Carbamate Chemical compound NC([O-])=O KXDHJXZQYSOELW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dioxygen Chemical compound O=O MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 206010020112 Hirsutism Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 240000003183 Manihot esculenta Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000016735 Manihot esculenta subsp esculenta Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 230000002779 inactivation Effects 0.000 description 1
- COHYTHOBJLSHDF-BUHFOSPRSA-N indigo dye Chemical compound N\1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C/1=C1/C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2N1 COHYTHOBJLSHDF-BUHFOSPRSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000000629 knee joint Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
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- JVBXVOWTABLYPX-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium dithionite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)S([O-])=O JVBXVOWTABLYPX-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a cotton-covered spandex T400 twin-core elastic series shell fabric. Polyester T400 fibers serve as core yarn, cotton fibers serve as fasciated yarn, cotton-covered spandex T400 twin-core elastic yarn integrates all characteristics of the cotton fibers, spandex and T400 fibers to make up deficiencies, the shell fabric has ultrahigh elasticity and ductility of the spandex and excellent heat resistance, fatigue resistance and oxidization resistance of the polyester T400 fibers, and after the outmost layer is wrapped by the cotton fibers, the shell fabric has hand feeling and a moisture absorbing property of the cotton fibers.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of fabric, be specifically related to a kind of bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core elastic force series fabric.
Background technology
Textile industry is developed so far the history of existing more than one thousand years, and the troop of textile garment material is up to now also constantlyNo matter grow, be the exploitation of natural fiber material, or the continuous breakthrough of chemical fibre product technology and performance and perfect,More fibrous material is applied to garment industry and meets people's various demands, still, traditional garment material no matter whatKind of weaving mode, bullet or without bullet, no matter its product is trousers, shirt or T-shirt substantially less, after the time of dress grown,All can there is distortion to a certain degree at some movable more positions, as ancon, knee joint position etc., its reason is, passesThe fabric lining of system is not had elasticity substantially, because External Force Acting makes, after fabric distortion, cannot restore to the original state completely, and day long-pending moonTire out and just produced obvious deformation, in addition, the clothing wearing next to the skin for some, does not have elasticity can allow people feel next to the skin not and relaxesSuitable, therefore, exploitation elastic fabric has application prospect very widely, and traditional elastomer, as spandex, polyamide fibre etc., due to itFatigue durability is poor or heat resistance is inadequate, no longer can satisfy the demands of consumers, novel PBT, PTT and ordinary polyesterAlthough the elastomers such as T400 make moderate progress in combination property, elasticity ductility can not show a candle to spandex, in this project, to haveThe terylene T400 fiber of superior elasticity ductility and superior elasticity recovery is heart yarn, and cotton fiber is fasciated yarn, exploitation twin-core bulletPower yarn, not only has the ductility of similar spandex, also can obtain the recovery of terylene T400 fiber, also has cotton feel simultaneously,The fabric comfortable feel softness being made into, and elasticity is splendid, and good endurance, has vast potential for future development.
Summary of the invention
The technical problem to be solved in the present invention overcomes existing defect, and a kind of bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core elastic force series is providedFabric, the set of the bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core stretch yarn various characteristics of cotton fiber, spandex and T400 fiber in one, get long benefitShort, not only there is the superelevation elasticity ductility of spandex, but also combine excellent heat resistance, the fatigue durability of terylene T400 fiberAnd non-oxidizability, after outermost layer is coated, also there is feel and the hygroscopicity of cotton fiber through cotton fiber, can effectively solve backgroundProblem in technology.
In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, the invention provides following technical scheme:
The invention provides a kind of bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core elastic force series fabric, terylene T400 fiber is heart yarn, cotton fiberFor fasciated yarn.
The spinning technique flow process of bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core stretch yarn:
Yarn raw material preparation: 100% combing sliver 21.3g/5m, spandex thread 40D, terylene T400 long filament 50D/24F.
Process: first by spandex thread and terylene T400 long filament after drawing-off, carry out and and, boundling is as heart yarn, add in advanceTwist with the fingers 120 sth. made by twisting/m, then adopt the method for Two strand Yarn Spinning, on traditional ring throstle, install a filament feeding device additional, make long filamentKeep certain distance with the yarn through normal drawing-off, control heart yarn tension force 30cN, 3 times of pre-draft multiple. The design twist approximately 620Sth. made by twisting/m, twist factor 440.
Weaving of twin-core elastic force series fabric:
Yarn configuration: warp thread is 100% cotton 16s, weft yarn is that bale of cotton spandex/T400 is two, stretch yarn is 48tex, weft densityFor 90*53.
Warping: the object of warping is that tension force, arrangement and the coiling three in order to make yarn sheet or rope bundle is even, and by someCheese, with the tension force of uniformity length in accordance with regulations, be evenly closely wound on warp beam or special ball journal, underRoad dyeing and starching processing are prepared. When warping, require tension force moderate, sheet yarn tension is even, reduces yarn head, strand head, waveHead, improves the good axial ratio of warp beam.
Dyeing and starching: adopt the method for pendant formula dyeing, make warp thread repeated multiple times dyeing cycle in staining bath, until obtainTill obtaining required color.
Concrete technology flow process is: warp thread → soda boiling → washing → indigo dyeing → starching → ventilative oxidation → washing is dried.
Weave: the Weave parameters of design fabric is twill left to right once on three, owing to being elastic fabric, in order to prevent volumeThe appearance of limit phenomenon, in the time of design selvedge, need add one page heald frame contrary with the comprehensive direction of motion of one page of ground tissue, utilizes these two pagesHeald frame selvedge, when denting, ground organizes every reed 2 to enter, and limit organizes every reed 4 to enter, and selvedge is neat like this, closely, attractive in appearance.
The rear arrangement of twin-core elastic force series fabric:
According to the postfinishing process of traditional denim, the rear arrangement that designs this project twin-core elastic force series jean is basicTechnological process is: singe → starching → whole latitude → preliminary drying → preshrunk.
Singe: the object of singing is to remove the filoplume on the floating grey cloth of denim surface, makes finished product outward appearance reach smooth bright and clean, lineRoad is effect clearly. If uneven singeing is unclean, cloth cover can produce organic cooperation of shaded bar figured cloth speed.
Starching: in order to improve the stiffening quality of denim, improve its thickness and weight, need carry out sizing finish to fabric.What we adopted is that the tank that original squezzing drying is used is adapted as stock tank, sets up the input unit of sizing mixing. Skewing before oven dryDenim is carried out to two to be soaked two and rolls starching.
Whole latitude: the object of whole latitude is keep the stability of fabric and eliminate potential skew of weft stress so that fabric outsideShape dimensionally stable. It is mainly because yarn count is thicker that denim produces skew of weft, knitting the internal stress producing in twill-weave process processedAfter washing, in relaxed state, the concentrated reaction of internal stresses release, therefore must skew antitorque.
Preliminary drying: what this operation adopted is three post vertical cylinder drying machines, clothing in contact metal drying cylinder surface, by heatTransmit and dry fabric, drying cylinder origin of heat is in steam. This operation is in order to coordinate the shrinkproof operation in rear road, by regulating each drying cylinderSteam pressure, makes the moisture control of fabric after drying in 30% left and right. Drying, starching and whole latitude are to interconnect, its operating speed is 30m/min.
Preshrunk: shrunk finish be that fabric is shunk in advance through broadwise, thereby greatly reduce the washing shrinkage of final finished cloth,To meet the requirement of clothes crudy, in order to reduce the washing shrinkage of denim, must carry out anti-shrinking, this operation adopts the U.S.The three roller rubber blanket preshrinking machines that produce, this machine front end is furnished with wetting apparatus, increases elasticity in the time of preshrunk of fiber and slurry and plasticProperty, be conducive to shrinkproof. After preshrunk, fabric enters the blanket collator that this machine rear end is equipped with, and arranges by blanket, and fabric is reducedPercentage elongation after preshrunk has larger effect.
Ready-made clothes washing: the look dying on jeans, be indigo be main, it is a kind of non-firm look, indigo is can not be directly moltenCan not be directly with what to dye on cotton yarn in water, the mode that can only restore by initial oxidation reaches the object of dying. So justDetermined indigoly can not have absolutely dye-uptake in upper process of dying, and can cause a large amount of loose colours, this part loose colourIn the process of pulp, before crossing stock tank, wash part off by several clear water cylinder, but also have many remaining on yarn, soThrough weaving, after in the finished fabric that arranges, still contain a large amount of loose colours. By wash water factory, wash the loose colour of jeans off, beA very important job.
This product is finally determined and is adopted ferment granite-wash, combines ENZYME WASH and STONEWASH, in the process of ENZYME WASH, addsEnter a small amount of float stone, the fabric style of acquisition is soft fine and smooth, has again the style of stone mill.
Ferment selection: about the selection of ferment, according to using pH value to divide, ferment has dividing of acid and neutrality at present; To useTemperature is divided, and has dividing of cold water enzyme and normal temperature enzyme; Divide with form: have at present aqueous enzyme, ferment, low side rice husk meal, aqueous enzyme andFerment powder has acid kind and neutral kind, and ferment aqua is by component groups such as cellulase, nutrient solution, anticorrisive agent, bleeding agentsBecome; Ferment powder is made up of components such as cellulase, nutrient solution, anticorrisive agent, bleeding agents; The pH value of wearing away water-bath directly affects and wears awayEffect: the bipseudoindoxyl dye while wearing away under mill is emitted in the aqueous solution, and these dyestuffs have powerful anti-contamination blueing trend to clothes,The inclination to soiling that returns of this bipseudoindoxyl dye to a certain degree depends on water washing bath pH value, returns contamination phenomenon in the time that water washing bath pH value is neutralMinimum, in the time of water washing bath pH value slant acidity, returns contamination phenomenon and is tending towards seriously, and bath temperature is higher in addition, returns contamination more serious,Join Bu Seze and return the decorative pattern definition, contrast, three-dimensional degree, background color, the ornaments suture that stain blueing phenomenon and directly affect productEtc. apparent effect, reduce the basic demand that this phenomenon is high-grade jeans, in addition, because this project raw material cotton occupies main one-tenthPoint, not acidproof, therefore pH value should select neutrality comparatively suitable, and in sum, we select the neutral ferment powder of wide temperature to grindWash to provide good resist printing to wear away effect, can be by clorox or hydrogen peroxide for the anti-contamination phenomenon having producedGently float and remove.
Technological process is as follows: the denim of destarch drops into water machine (jet overflow dyeing machine) → waterproof to suitable water level and (addsEnter float stone, glueballs) → add resist agent → start turn round → be warming up to applicable temperature → adjustment or check pH value → add ferment →Wear away certain hour and to version → discharge water to higher liquid level, 60 DEG C of above (adding soda ash deactivation) → clorox or hydrogen peroxide heat upRinsing → washing. .
The beneficial effect that the present invention reaches is: a kind of bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core elastic force series fabric, spandex is poly-ammoniaThe abbreviation of carbamate fiber, is a kind of elastomer, and it has high flexibility, can elongate 6～7 times, but disappearing with tension forceAnergy returns to rapidly original state, and its molecular structure is picture polyurethanes chain, softness and extensibility,By linking together and strengthen its characteristic with hard segment, spandex can produce larger deformation under low-tension, and heat resistance,Solvent resistances etc. are all better, but fatigue durability and non-oxidizability are poor, and therefore high strength multi-drawing can relax, and under being exposed to the sun, also holdEasily aging, generally do not use separately, but marginally mix in fabric, produce spandex core-spun yarn, not only can rely on surface bagThe performance that twines yarn makes up the performance shortcomings of spandex itself, can also obtain excellent elasticity, and terylene T400 is that a kind of novel elastic is multipleCondensating fiber, by having the PET of different percentage elongations and PTT and adopt the form of bilateral distribution, obtains as spring-like itEffect, containing spandex and there is good elasticity, solved spandex not easy dyeing, elastic force surplus, weave complexity, fabric sizeThe problems such as spandex unstable and in use is aging, its fabric of making has following characteristics: elastic force is light, easyproSuitable, lasting; Fabric softness, well-pressed, drapability good; Cloth cover is smooth, wrinkle resistance good; Hydroscopic fast-drying, feel is smooth; Dimensional stabilityGood, be easy to answer, compared with spandex, T400 is the rising star in elastomer, has higher elastic recovery and good clothesBy performance, but the too late spandex of elastic extension, covering yarn claims again composite yarn or wrap yarn, it is by two or moreA kind of new type yarn that fiber combinations forms, covering yarn generally taking powerful and elastic force all good filament of synthetic fibre as core silk,The short fibers such as outsourcing cotton, hair, viscose rayon are twisted and the yarn that is spun into together, and covering yarn has long filament heart yarn and outsourcing short fiber concurrentlyPremium properties, more common covering yarn has polyester-cotton blend covering yarn, it is taking polyester filament as heart yarn, outsourcing cotton fiber also has ammoniaSynthetic fibre covering yarn, it is taking spandex continuous yarn as heart yarn, the yarn that other fibers of outsourcing are made, the knitted fabric of being made up of this covering yarnOr cowboy's trousering, capable of expansion and contraction while dress, comfortable fittingness.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core elastic force series fabric organization chart that the embodiment of the present invention provides.
Detailed description of the invention
Below the preferred embodiments of the present invention are described, should be appreciated that preferred embodiment described herein only usesIn description and interpretation the present invention, be not intended to limit the present invention.
Embodiment 1:
1, a bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core elastic force series fabric, terylene T400 fiber is heart yarn, cotton fiber is fasciated yarn.
2, the spinning technique flow process of bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core stretch yarn:
2.1 yarn raw material preparations: 100% combing sliver 21.3g/5m, spandex thread 40D, terylene T400 long filament 50D/24F.
2.2 processes: first by spandex thread and terylene T400 long filament after drawing-off, carry out and and, boundling is as heart yarn, pre-Twist 120 sth. made by twisting/m, then adopt the method for Two strand Yarn Spinning, on traditional ring throstle, install a filament feeding device additional, make longSilk keeps certain distance with the yarn through normal drawing-off, controls heart yarn tension force 30cN, 3 times of pre-draft multiple, the design twist approximately 620Sth. made by twisting/m, twist factor 440.
2.3 performance indications
| Fineness/TEX | Dan Qiang, CV% | Disconnected strong, CN/TEX | Bar is done CV% |
| 48 | 10.12 | 16.40 | 9.54 |
3, weaving of twin-core elastic force series fabric:
3.1 yarn configurations: warp thread is 100% cotton 16s, weft yarn is that bale of cotton spandex/T400 is two, stretch yarn is 48tex, warpFilling density is 90*53.
3.2 warpings: the object of warping is that tension force, arrangement and the coiling three in order to make yarn sheet or rope bundle is even, and will be certainThe cheese of quantity, with the tension force of uniformity length in accordance with regulations, is evenly closely wound on warp beam or special ball journal,Wei Xia road dyeing and starching processing are prepared, and require tension force moderate when warping, and sheet yarn tension is even, reduce yarn head, strand,Wave, improves the good axial ratio of warp beam.
Warping technology: speed 450m/min, single thread dynamic tension 26cN, tension force configuration: 5.6-9.6cN, warp beam density0.69/cm3。
3.3 dyeing and starchings: adopt the method for pendant formula dyeing, make warp thread repeated multiple times dyeing cycle in staining bath, straightTill obtain required color.
Concrete technology flow process is: warp thread → soda boiling → washing → indigo dyeing → starching → ventilative oxidation → washing is dried.
Process conditions are as follows:
Soda boiling:
Indigo dyeing:
Because indigo dye uptake on cotton fiber is low, and fastness is poor in the time of high-temperature dyeing, the high and look of sodium hydrosulfite consumptionLight is compiled dark red, thus adopt room temperature repeatedly to dye, this coloring characteristics that is denim, ventilative oxidizing temperature is room temperature, carries out 80～100s, in order to obtain pure coloured light, adopts ventilative autoxidation without oxidant after indigo dyeing, have easily due to indigoReduce not oxidizable characteristic, so also adopt repeated multiple times oxidation, washing temperature is room temperature, in water-washing process, goes on the one handExcept loose colour, remaining alkali and impurity, can also continue on the other hand oxidation, make its oxidation fully.
Sizing adopts ZZD-GM type denim slurry, suitably adds acrylic size, sizing butter, wax disk(-sc), dense in employingDegree, low viscous size mixing technology improves the pressure of sizing roller in the time of starching, obtained good osmotic effect, improves yarnPowerful; Reduce coating roller pressure simultaneously, strengthen coating, the surface hairiness of docile yarn. Concrete technology parameter is as follows:
3.4 weave: the Weave parameters of design fabric is twill left to right once on three, owing to being elastic fabric, for anti-The only appearance of edge-curl phenomenon, in the time of design selvedge, need add one page heald frame contrary with the comprehensive direction of motion of one page of ground tissue, utilizes thisTwo pages of heald frame selvedges, when denting, ground organizes every reed 2 to enter, and limit organizes every reed 4 to enter, and selvedge is neat like this, closely, attractive in appearance.
Because the warp thread of denim is different with weft yarn color and luster, so the yarn defects such as weft yarn evenness fault can obviously be exposed to cloth coverUpper, in addition, weft yarn raw yarn sometimes, because yellowish-white yarn also can cause weft bar, in order to prevent that this phenomenon from occurring, and can adopt mixedWeft handling device, or weft yarn is dyed to light gray, weave and adopt large warp beam, batch greatly, this is that volume of the circular flow is large because yarn count is thick,The machine cycle is fast, so must adopt large warp beam, general diameter is 800mm, and cloth beam is generally 560mm.
4, the rear arrangement of twin-core elastic force series fabric:
According to the postfinishing process of traditional denim, the rear arrangement that designs this project twin-core elastic force series jean is basicTechnological process is: singe → starching → whole latitude → preliminary drying → preshrunk.
4.1 singe: the object of singing is to remove the filoplume on the floating grey cloth of denim surface, makes finished product outward appearance reach smooth lightClean, lines effect clearly. If uneven singeing is unclean, cloth cover can produce organic cooperation of shaded bar figured cloth speed.
Adopt gas singeing, process conditions are as follows:
The speed of a motor vehicle 75-80m/min
Burner, the uniformity and make the intensity 75-80m/min of flame with two positive two countercharges
The number of times two of singing is positive two anti-
(burner requires evenly strong, and firepower should not be too high, especially will note connecing of cloth cover apart from 3.5cm for burner and cloth coverTouch temperature)
Singe in the mode front of singing
Steam smoothering, the result of singing requires to reach 4 grades.
4.2 starchings: in order to improve the stiffening quality of denim, improve its thickness and weight, need carry out starching to fabric wholeReason, what we adopted is that the tank that original squezzing drying is used is adapted as stock tank, sets up the input unit of sizing mixing, and is skewing oven dryBefore denim is carried out to two soak two and roll starching.
Its sizing technique is as follows:
(1) prescription
Tapioca 15g/L
Sizing paste 3g/L
Beta naphthal 0.04g/L
(2) process conditions
97 DEG C of sizing temperature
Slurries relative viscosity 15PaS
Pick-up 85%.
4.3 whole latitudes: the object of whole latitude is keep the stability of fabric and eliminate potential skew of weft stress, so that fabricAppearance and size is stable, and it is mainly because yarn count is thicker that denim produces skew of weft, knitting the planted agent who produces in twill-weave process processedPower after washing in relaxed state, the concentrated reaction of internal stresses release, therefore must skew antitorque, adopt multi roll wholeWeft handling device, in the time not there is not skew of weft, is parallel to each other between roller and roller; While there is skew of weft, make the product of asking of roller and roller by dedicated motorRaw not parallel, in denim production process, not parallel between appropriate dancer rools and roller, does not make fabric tension not etc., produces symbolClose the skew of weft of technological requirement.
4.4 preliminary dryings: what this operation adopted is three post vertical cylinder drying machines, and clothing in contact metal drying cylinder surface, by heatAmount transmission and dry fabric, drying cylinder origin of heat is in steam, this operation is in order to coordinate the shrinkproof operation in rear road, by regulating each bakingThe steam pressure of cylinder, makes the moisture control of fabric after drying in 30% left and right, and drying, starching and whole latitude are to be interconnected on oneRise, its operating speed is 30m/min.
4.5 preshrunks: shrunk finish be that fabric is shunk in advance through broadwise, thereby greatly reduce the shrink of final finished clothRate, to meet the requirement of clothes crudy, in order to reduce the washing shrinkage of denim, must carry out anti-shrinking, and this operation adoptsThe three roller rubber blanket preshrinking machines that the U.S. produces, this machine front end is furnished with wetting apparatus, increase fiber and the elasticity of slurry in the time of preshrunk andPlasticity, is conducive to shrinkproofly, and after preshrunk, fabric enters the blanket collator that this machine rear end is equipped with, and arranges, to fabric by blanketThe percentage elongation reducing after preshrunk has larger effect.
Its shrink-proof process condition is:
Speed of a motor vehicle 28-30m/min
The rubber 7/16-8/16 inch that spaces
More than steam pressure 7.0kg/cm
By above-mentioned technique preshrunk, preshrinking rate can reach 13～l4%, and filling density can improve 6～7 pieces/inch.
5, ready-made clothes washing: the look dying on jeans, be indigo be main, it is a kind of non-firm look, indigo is can not be directWater-soluble can not be directly with what dye on cotton yarn, the mode that can only restore by initial oxidation reaches the object of dying, like thisJust determined indigoly can not have absolutely dye-uptake in upper process of dying, and can cause a large amount of loose colours, and this part is floatingLook was washed part off by several clear water cylinder in the process of pulp before crossing stock tank, but also had many remaining on yarn, instituteWith through weaving, after in the finished fabric that arranges, still contain a large amount of loose colours, by wash water factory, wash the loose colour of jeans off,A very important job.
5.1, this product is finally determined and is adopted ferment granite-wash, combines ENZYME WASH and STONEWASH, in the process of ENZYME WASHIn add a small amount of float stone, the fabric style of acquisition is soft fine and smooth, has again the style of stone mill, common several method for washing haveDestarch is washed, STONEWASH, ENZYME WASH, sand washing etc., and ferment is a kind of cellulase, and he can be at certain pH value and temperature, rightFibre structure produces degradation, and cloth cover can more leniently be faded, unhairing, and obtain lasting soft effect, with stone millWash and compare, ENZYME WASH can make fabric have decrement effect and permanent soft feel; Can make fabric improve degree of dangling and produce temptingGloss; The not burnt hair of decorative pattern exquisiteness washing out.
5.2 ferment selections: about the selection of ferment, according to using pH value to divide, ferment has dividing of acid and neutrality at present; So thatDivide by temperature, have dividing of cold water enzyme and normal temperature enzyme; Divide with form: have at present aqueous enzyme, ferment, low side rice husk meal, aqueous enzymeHave acid kind and neutral kind with ferment powder, ferment aqua is by components such as cellulase, nutrient solution, anticorrisive agent, bleeding agentsComposition; Ferment powder is made up of components such as cellulase, nutrient solution, anticorrisive agent, bleeding agents; The pH value of wearing away water-bath directly affects millWash effect: the bipseudoindoxyl dye while wearing away under mill is emitted in the aqueous solution, and these dyestuffs have powerful anti-contamination blueing to become to clothesGesture, the inclination to soiling that returns of this bipseudoindoxyl dye to a certain degree depends on water washing bath pH value, returns contamination in the time that water washing bath pH value is neutralPhenomenon minimum, in the time of water washing bath pH value slant acidity, returns contamination phenomenon and is tending towards seriously, and bath temperature is higher in addition, returns and stains moreSeriously, return the decorative pattern definition, contrast, three-dimensional degree, background color, the ornaments suture that stain blueing phenomenon and directly affect product and join clothThe apparent effect such as color and luster, reduces the basic demand that this phenomenon is high-grade jeans, in addition, and because this project raw material cotton occupies masterWant composition, not acidproof, therefore pH value should select neutrality comparatively suitable, and in sum, we select the neutral ferment powder of wide temperature to enterRow wears away to provide good resist printing to wear away effect, can pass through clorox or dioxygen for the anti-contamination phenomenon having producedGently the floating and remove of water.
Technological process is as follows: the denim of destarch drops into water machine (jet overflow dyeing machine) → waterproof to suitable water level and (addsEnter float stone, glueballs) → add resist agent → start turn round → be warming up to applicable temperature → adjustment or check pH value → add ferment →Wear away certain hour and to version → discharge water to higher liquid level, 60 DEG C of above (adding soda ash deactivation) → clorox or hydrogen peroxide heat upRinsing → washing.
Process conditions:
Float stone consumption: 0.35kg/kg clothing (determining according to general old degree)
Points for attention
1) consumption of enzyme: the consumption of cellulase should be determined according to effect. Consumption very little, does not reach enzyme and washes stonewashed effect;Consumption too greatly can damage fabric, fabric strength is declined excessive. Can be at cellulase place for thick and heavy, wear-resisting denimWhen reason, add a small amount of float stone, can improve like this effect.
2) bath raio: bath raio is comparison key factor in stone mill process, and bath raio is too little, makes webbing liquid very little,Rub inhomogeneous, affect enzyme and wash effect; Bath raio is too large, and the consumption of enzyme will be high, increase cost, and amount of liquid easily floats fabric moreFloat over liquid level, not tight with being in contact with one another of enzyme, rub also insufficient, enzyme is washed weak effect. So should control the size of bath raio well.
3) temperature: enzyme is class protein material, bring into play enzyme to cellulosic hydrolysis, will ensure the work of enzymePower. The vigor of enzyme only could keep best under specific temperature conditions. Under the vigor that all can make enzyme too high or too low for temperatureFall even and lose activity.
4) time: the time is too short, stonewashed effect is poor; Overlong time, easily causes the damage to fabric.
5) inactivation of enzyme: enzyme can or add caustic soda to stop the vigor of enzyme by rising temperature after washing. General temperature exists80 DEG C or the above enzyme of PH10 have just lost activity.
6, finished product index:
It should be noted that, the present invention is a kind of bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core elastic force series fabric, adopts Revolving cup spinning thisAdvanced Spinning Technologies spins bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core stretch yarn, spin yam surface bright and clean, filoplume is few, be difficult for fluffBall, and can realize the uniform looping of cotton yarn in heart yarn outside, yarn elastic force is good, soft handle, bale of cotton spandex twin-core elastic force seriesFabric has easy dyeing, soft, abundant, comfortable flexible, and the multiple high added value such as elasticity is lasting, not yielding, isThere is very much a fabric fabric for market prospects, adopt three roller rubber blanket preshrinking machines of the U.S., carry out shiinkproof finish, arrangeBy blanket collator, reduce the percentage elongation after preshrunk afterwards, ready-made clothes adopts the method for ferment granite-wash to select the neutral ferment powder of loose temperatureWash, combine ENZYME WASH and STONEWASH a little, make fabric feel more soft, color and luster is finer and smoother, unique style.
Finally it should be noted that: the foregoing is only the preferred embodiments of the present invention, be not limited to the present invention,Although the present invention is had been described in detail with reference to previous embodiment, for a person skilled in the art, it still canSo that the technical scheme that aforementioned each embodiment was recorded is modified, or part technical characterictic is wherein equal to replacement.Within the spirit and principles in the present invention all, any amendment of doing, be equal to replacement, improvement etc., all should be included in of the present inventionWithin protection domain.
Claims (5)
1. a bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core elastic force series fabric, terylene T400 fiber is heart yarn, cotton fiber is fasciated yarn.
2. the spinning technique flow process of bale of cotton spandex T400 twin-core stretch yarn:
2.1 yarn raw material preparations: 100% combing sliver 21.3g/5m, spandex thread 40D, terylene T400 long filament 50D/24F.
2.2 processes: first by spandex thread and terylene T400 long filament after drawing-off, carry out and and, boundling is as heart yarn, twisting in advance120 sth. made by twisting/m, then adopts the method for Two strand Yarn Spinning, installs a filament feeding device on traditional ring throstle additional, make long filament withYarn through normal drawing-off keeps certain distance, controls heart yarn tension force 30cN, 3 times of pre-draft multiple. The design twist approximately 620 sth. made by twisting/M, twist factor 440.
3. weaving of twin-core elastic force series fabric:
3.1 yarn configurations: warp thread is 100% cotton 16s, weft yarn is that bale of cotton spandex/T400 is two, and stretch yarn is 48tex, and weft density is90*53。
3.2 warpings: the object of warping is that tension force, arrangement and the coiling three in order to make yarn sheet or rope bundle is even, and by someCheese, with the tension force of uniformity length in accordance with regulations, be evenly closely wound on warp beam or special ball journal, underRoad dyeing and starching processing are prepared. When warping, require tension force moderate, sheet yarn tension is even, reduces yarn head, strand head, waveHead, improves the good axial ratio of warp beam.
3.3 dyeing and starchings: adopt the method for pendant formula dyeing, make warp thread repeated multiple times dyeing cycle in staining bath, until obtainTill obtaining required color.
Concrete technology flow process is: warp thread → soda boiling → washing → indigo dyeing → starching → ventilative oxidation → washing is dried.
3.4 weave: the Weave parameters of design fabric is twill left to right once on three, owing to being elastic fabric, in order to prevent volumeThe appearance of limit phenomenon, in the time of design selvedge, need add one page heald frame contrary with the comprehensive direction of motion of one page of ground tissue, utilizes these two pagesHeald frame selvedge, when denting, ground organizes every reed 2 to enter, and limit organizes every reed 4 to enter, and selvedge is neat like this, closely, attractive in appearance.
4. the rear arrangement of twin-core elastic force series fabric:
According to the postfinishing process of traditional denim, design the rear arrangement basic technology of this project twin-core elastic force series jeanFlow process is: singe → starching → whole latitude → preliminary drying → preshrunk.
4.1 singe: the object of singing is to remove the filoplume on the floating grey cloth of denim surface, makes finished product outward appearance reach smooth bright and clean, lineRoad is effect clearly. If uneven singeing is unclean, cloth cover can produce organic cooperation of shaded bar figured cloth speed.
4.2 starchings: in order to improve the stiffening quality of denim, improve its thickness and weight, need carry out sizing finish to fabric. IWhat adopt is that the tank that original squezzing drying is used is adapted as stock tank, set up the input unit of sizing mixing. Skew dry before rightDenim carries out two and soaks two and roll starching.
4.3 whole latitudes: the object of whole latitude is keep the stability of fabric and eliminate potential skew of weft stress, so that the profile of fabricDimensionally stable. It is mainly because yarn count is thicker that denim produces skew of weft, exists knitting the internal stress producing in twill-weave process processedAfter washing, in relaxed state, the concentrated reaction of internal stresses release, therefore must skew antitorque.
4.4 preliminary dryings: what this operation adopted is three post vertical cylinder drying machines, clothing in contact metal drying cylinder surface, by heatTransmit and dry fabric, drying cylinder origin of heat is in steam. This operation is in order to coordinate the shrinkproof operation in rear road, by regulating each drying cylinderSteam pressure, makes the moisture control of fabric after drying in 30% left and right. Drying, starching and whole latitude are to interconnect, its operating speed is 30m/min.
4.5 preshrunks: shrunk finish be that fabric is shunk in advance through broadwise, thereby greatly reduce the washing shrinkage of final finished cloth,To meet the requirement of clothes crudy, in order to reduce the washing shrinkage of denim, must carry out anti-shrinking, this operation adopts the U.S.The three roller rubber blanket preshrinking machines that produce, this machine front end is furnished with wetting apparatus, increases elasticity in the time of preshrunk of fiber and slurry and plasticProperty, be conducive to shrinkproof. After preshrunk, fabric enters the blanket collator that this machine rear end is equipped with, and arranges by blanket, and fabric is reducedPercentage elongation after preshrunk has larger effect.
5. ready-made clothes washing: the look dying on jeans, be indigo be main, it is a kind of non-firm look, indigo is to be directly dissolved inWater can not be directly with what dye on cotton yarn, and the mode that can only restore by initial oxidation reaches the object of dying. So just certainlyDetermined indigoly can not have absolutely dye-uptake in upper process of dying, and can cause a large amount of loose colours, and this part loose colour existsIn the process of pulp, before crossing stock tank, wash part off by several clear water cylinder, but also have many remaining on yarn, soThrough weaving, after in the finished fabric that arranges, still contain a large amount of loose colours. By wash water factory, wash the loose colour of jeans off, be oneThe very important work of item.
5.1, this product is finally determined and is adopted ferment granite-wash, combines ENZYME WASH and STONEWASH, in the process of ENZYME WASH, addsEnter a small amount of float stone, the fabric style of acquisition is soft fine and smooth, has again the style of stone mill.
5.2 ferment selections: about the selection of ferment, according to using pH value to divide, ferment has dividing of acid and neutrality at present; To use temperatureDegree point, has dividing of cold water enzyme and normal temperature enzyme; Divide with form: have at present aqueous enzyme, ferment, low side rice husk meal, aqueous enzyme and fermentElement powder has acid kind and neutral kind, and ferment aqua is made up of components such as cellulase, nutrient solution, anticorrisive agent, bleeding agents;Ferment powder is made up of components such as cellulase, nutrient solution, anticorrisive agent, bleeding agents; The pH value of wearing away water-bath directly affects and wears away effectReally: while wearing away mill under bipseudoindoxyl dye be emitted in the aqueous solution, these dyestuffs have powerful anti-contamination blueing trend to clothes, thisThe inclination to soiling that returns of kind of bipseudoindoxyl dye to a certain degree depends on water washing bath pH value, returns and stain phenomenon in the time that water washing bath pH value is neutralLittle, in the time of water washing bath pH value slant acidity, return contamination phenomenon and be tending towards seriously, bath temperature is higher in addition, returns contamination more serious, andReturn the decorative pattern definition, contrast, three-dimensional degree, background color, the ornaments suture that stain blueing phenomenon and directly affect product and join Bu Seze etc.Apparent effect, reduces the basic demand that this phenomenon is high-grade jeans, in addition, and because this project raw material cotton occupies main one-tenthPoint, not acidproof, therefore pH value should select neutrality comparatively suitable, and in sum, we select the neutral ferment powder of wide temperature to grindWash to provide good resist printing to wear away effect, can be by clorox or hydrogen peroxide for the anti-contamination phenomenon having producedGently float and remove.
Technological process is as follows: the denim of destarch drops into water machine (jet overflow dyeing machine) → waterproof to suitable water level and (adds floatingStone, glueballs) → add resist agent → start turn round → be warming up to applicable temperature → adjustment or check pH value → add ferment → wear awayCertain hour to version → discharge water to higher liquid level, 60 DEG C of above (adding soda ash deactivation) → clorox or hydrogen peroxide rinsings heat up→ washing.
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