CN105401307A - High-elastic denim fabric and production process thereof - Google Patents
High-elastic denim fabric and production process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
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- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8223—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups
- D06P3/8228—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups using one kind of dye
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Abstract
The invention provides a high-elastic denim fabric, wherein PTT fiber filaments and spandex filaments are adopted as core yarns. Fasciated yarns are spun into double stretch yarn core-spun yarns, and then the double stretch yarn core-spun yarns are weaved in a three-upward one-downward right twill-weave mode to form cotton roves. After that, the high-elastic denim fabric is prepared successively through the steps of spinning double stretch yarn core-spun yarns, warping, starch dyeing, singeing, desizing, mercerising and washing finished products. The tensile elastic elongation rate of the high-elastic denim fabric prepared by the above method is up to 53.5% and the tensile elastic recovery rate thereof is up to 92.7%. Meanwhile, through setting the ratio of two types of stretch yarns, stretch yarns of different elastic performances can be obtained to meet different elastic requirements. The current situation that the conventional male denim fabric is not elastic can be changed. Meanwhile, the physical and chemical properties and the wearing comfortness of male denim clothes are improved to a certain degree. The fabric is soft and comfortable in hand feeling, good in shape-retaining ability, high in degree of dyeing and good in color fastness, thereby meeting the moderate sport requirement of men when wearing denim clothes. At the same time, the fabric does not unduly fit, thus having a good development prospect and a large value space.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of fabric, particularly a kind of high-elastic jean and production technology thereof.
Background technology
As a kind of leisure series fabric of classics, denim is used in and Men's Wear fabric has passed on it is the most original rough, air, succinct style, but the improvement of spinning, weaving mode, and the optimization of raw material is selected and configures, allow the more comfortable softness of the feel of man's jean, color is also not limited only to initial coffee color and indigo, and the blueness of various different depth degree, gradient color etc. has all appeared on jean.Although relatively initial the having in feel and style of man's jean is significantly improved, from fabric itself, man's jean still remains the effect without bullet or micro-bullet.But, on clothes to fashion with motion with the today that need ask altogether, greatly limit the range of movement of man when wearing cowboy's dress ornament without playing jean.Develop high-elastic jean for man's jeans, not only can change the present situation of traditional man's jean without bullet, improve the comfortableness of cowboy's man dress ornament to a certain extent, make feel more soft, also the demand of man's modest movement when wearing jean can be met, and don't as the high-elastic jean of Ms because elastic force crosses the too next to the skin and close-fitting effect of containing and bringing, good development prospect and value space can be had.
Summary of the invention
Main purpose of the present invention is the shortcoming overcoming prior art, there is provided a kind of soft comfortable, shape-retaining ability is good, dye uptake is high, and COLOR FASTNESS is good, and elasticity is moderate, the present situation of traditional man's jean without bullet can be changed, improve physical and chemical performance and the wearing comfort of cowboy man dress ornament to a certain extent, and the demand of man's modest movement when wearing jean can be met, and don't high-elastic jean too next to the skin and production technology thereof.
The present invention adopts following technical scheme:
A kind of high-elastic jean, with ptt fiber long filament and spandex thread for heart yarn, cotton rove is that wrapped yarn is spun into two elastic filament cladded yarn, then to be woven on three twill left to right institutional framework once by two elastic filament cladded yarn and to be formed.
Further, described cotton rove adopts 40 ~ 45tex100% combed cotton rove, and spandex thread adopts 30 ~ 50D spandex thread, and ptt fiber long filament adopts 50 ~ 100D/24 ~ 72FPTT fiber filament, adopts SEILE textile technique to be spun into two elastic filament cladded yarn.
A production technology for high-elastic jean, comprises the following steps:
1. the two elastic filament cladded yarn of spinning, with ptt fiber long filament and spandex thread for heart yarn, cotton rove is that wrapped yarn is spun into two elastic filament cladded yarn;
2. warping, by warping machines by two elastic filament cladded yarn close wind in warp beam;
Two elastic filament cladded yarns after warping are carried out refining, dyeing, oxidation, washing, oven dry, starching by 3. pulp successively;
4. weave, the base weaving yarns after pulp is become the grey cloth of twill left to right institutional framework once on three;
5. singe, adopt gas singeing technique to remove the filoplume on grey cloth surface;
6. destarch, carries out destarch process to grey cloth, removes the slurry of fiber surface;
7. mercerising, carries out mercerization finish to the grey cloth after destarch, and in mercerization finish process, carry out the whole latitude of tentering;
8. finished product washing, washes the fabric after mercerization finish, washes post-drying.
Further, in the two elastic filament cladded yarn technique of described spinning, described cotton rove adopts 40 ~ 45tex100% combed cotton rove, spandex thread adopts 30 ~ 50D spandex thread, ptt fiber long filament adopts 50 ~ 100D/24 ~ 72FPTT fiber filament, adopts SEILE textile technique to be spun into two elastic filament cladded yarn.
Further, in the two elastic filament cladded yarn technique of described spinning, ptt fiber long filament and spandex thread are by the ratio machine bag of 2:1 ~ 1:5, and the twist 50 ~ 70 sth. made by twisting/10cm, twists with the fingers to Z sth. made by twisting, drafting multiple 3 ~ 4 times.
Further, in described pulp technique, the refining liquid be first placed in by two elastic filament cladded yarn containing the stabilizing agent of the refining agent of 3 ~ 5g/L, the NaOH of 6 ~ 10g/L, the alkali-resistant penetrant of 2 ~ 4g/L and 1 ~ 3g/L carries out refining, and refining temperature is 30 ~ 50 DEG C; Then, dyeed by the dyeing liquor that two elastic filament cladded yarns after refining are placed in containing the bipseudoindoxyl dye of the NaOH of 2 ~ 4g/L, the sodium hydrosulfite of 0.6 ~ 0.8g/L and 1 ~ 3g/L, dye bath amount is 1000L, and dyeing temperature is 20 ~ 40 DEG C, the speed of a motor vehicle is 20m/min, and repeated multiple times dyeing; Ventilative oxidation 80 ~ 100s is at room temperature carried out after dyeing, and repeated multiple times; Wash after oxidation, washing temperature is room temperature, washing post-drying; Finally, starching is carried out to two elastic filament cladded yarn, two elastic filament cladded yarns after washing being dried are placed in sizing material and carry out starching, sizing material is containing the wax disk(-sc) of the converted starch of 50 ~ 200 weight portions, the acrylic size of 0 ~ 20 weight portion, the butter of 0 ~ 10 weight portion and 0 ~ 5 weight portion, and sizing material viscosity is 6 ~ 10Pas.
Further, in described weaving process, when weaving selvedge, one page heald frame organized by ground and one page heald frame contrary with one page integrated box movement direction of ground tissue carry out selvedge, and during denting, ground organizes every reed 2 to enter, and the every reed 4 of Selvage Stitch enters.
Further, in described singeing, the speed of a motor vehicle is 60m/min, and number of times two positive of singing is anti-, and burner and cloth cover distance 3 ~ 4cm, flame temperature 1200 ~ 1300 DEG C, adopt steam smoothering, quality requirement of singing at least reaches 4 grades.
Further, in described mercerization, grey cloth through two to roll, two to wash, two steamings, pressure roll pressure 2 ~ 4kN, speed of a motor vehicle 40m/min, steam box temperature 30 ~ 50 DEG C, and in mercerization finish process, carry out twice whole latitude of tentering.
Further, in described finished product washing process, adopt leaven washing, bath raio 1:15, cellulase consumption is 2 ~ 4% of fabric weight, and pH value is 6 ~ 8, and temperature is 50 ~ 70 DEG C, and washing time is 30 ~ 60min.
From the above-mentioned description of this invention, compared with prior art, the present invention has following beneficial effect:
1. the high-elastic jean tensile elasticity percentage elongation spun can reach 53.5%, and tensile elasticity response rate can reach 92.7%, and can obtain the stretch yarn of different elastic performance by the ratio of configuration two kinds of elastic filament, meets different elastic force needs.By the optimization to technique in process, shorten manufacturing procedure, reduce energy resource consumption, for the development technique of man's elastic force cowboy dress ornament plays positive impetus, not only can change the present situation of traditional man's jean without bullet, improve physical and chemical performance and the wearing comfort of cowboy's man dress ornament to a certain extent, soft comfortable, shape-retaining ability is good, also the demand of man's modest movement when wearing jean can be met, and don't can as the high-elastic jean of Ms because elastic force crosses the too next to the skin and close-fitting effect of containing and bringing, there is good development prospect and value space.
2. adopt room temperature repeatedly to dye, ventilative autoxidation, and repeated multiple times oxidation, room temperature is washed, and oxidation is more abundant, and dye uptake is high, and COLOR FASTNESS is good.
When 3. weaving selvedge, one page heald frame organized by ground and one page heald frame contrary with one page integrated box movement direction of ground tissue carry out selvedge, during denting, organize every reed 2 to enter, the every reed 4 of Selvage Stitch enters, and can prevent edge-curl phenomenon, selvedge is neat, tight, attractive in appearance.
4. by mercerization finish, cotton fiber can be made fully swelling, improve covered effect.And in mercerization finish process, carry out the whole latitude of tentering, stablize to make the appearance and size of fabric.
5. finished product adopts the method for leaven washing, and fabric can be made to have reduced training and permanent soft feel, and fabric can be made to improve pendency degree and produce attractive luster, and the decorative pattern exquisiteness not burnt hair washed out.
Detailed description of the invention
Below by way of detailed description of the invention, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment one
A production technology for high-elastic jean, comprises the following steps:
1. the two elastic filament cladded yarn of spinning, with 75D/48FPTT fiber filament and 40D spandex thread for heart yarn, 42tex100% combed cotton rove is wrapped yarn, adopts SEILE textile technique to be spun into two elastic filament cladded yarn; During cored, two combed cotton rove are positioned on lift spindle, through after, in, front roller feeding; Ptt fiber long filament and spandex thread in after the ratio machine bag of 1:3, then are placed horizontally between two godet rollers, feed from front roller two combed cotton yarns through a godet roller; The twist 60 twists with the fingers/10cm, twists with the fingers and twists with the fingers to Z, drafting multiple 3.5 times.
2. warping, by warping machines by two elastic filament cladded yarn close wind in warp beam, speed 350m/min, tension rail angle 100 °, parking angle 160 °, warping head part 440*10, drum pressure 3800N.
3. pulp, the two elastic filament cladded yarns after warping are carried out refining, dyeing, oxidation, washing, oven dry, starching successively, and concrete technology condition is as follows:
Refining: the refining liquid be placed in by two elastic filament cladded yarn containing the stabilizing agent of the refining agent of 4g/L, the NaOH of 8g/L, the alkali-resistant penetrant of 3g/L and 2g/L carries out refining, and refining temperature is 40 DEG C;
Dyeing: the dyeing liquor that the two elastic filament cladded yarns after refining are placed in containing the bipseudoindoxyl dye of the NaOH of 3g/L, the sodium hydrosulfite of 0.7g/L and 2.05g/L is dyeed, dye bath amount is 1000L, dyeing temperature is 30 DEG C, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 20m/min, and repeated multiple times dyeing;
Oxidation: at room temperature carry out ventilative autoxidation 80 ~ 100s after dyeing, and repeated multiple times;
Washing: washed by the yarn after oxidation, washing temperature is room temperature, can remove loose colour, remaining alkali and impurity in water-washing process on the one hand, can also continue oxidation on the other hand, makes yarn be oxidized fully;
Dry: by the drying yarn after washing;
Starching: the two elastic filament cladded yarns after washing being dried are placed in sizing material and carry out starching, sizing material is containing the converted starch of 100 weight portions and the wax disk(-sc) of 3 weight portions, sizing material viscosity is 8Pas, middle district pressure 3.6Mpa, sizing roller pressure 1.4Mpa, coating roller pressure 3.0Mpa, blowing tension force 120Mpa; Improve the pressure of sizing roller when starching, to obtain good osmotic effect, improve the brute force of yarn, reduce coating roller pressure simultaneously, strengthen coating, the surface hairiness of docile yarn.
4. weave, the base weaving yarns after pulp is become the grey cloth of twill left to right institutional framework once on three; When weaving, the speed of a motor vehicle is 350r/min, opening time 318 °, back beam height 10mm, rear beam depth 3mm, warp tension 2.8N; When weaving selvedge, one page heald frame organized by ground and one page heald frame contrary with one page integrated box movement direction of ground tissue carry out selvedge, and during denting, ground organizes every reed 2 to enter, and the every reed 4 of Selvage Stitch enters.
5. singe, adopt gas singeing technique to remove the filoplume on grey cloth surface, make finished appearance reach smooth bright and clean, lines effect clearly; When singing, the speed of a motor vehicle is 60m/min, and number of times two positive of singing is anti-, burner and cloth cover distance 3.5cm, flame temperature 1200 ~ 1300 DEG C, and adopt steam smoothering, quality requirement of singing reaches 4 grades.
6. destarch, carries out destarch process to grey cloth, removes the slurry of fiber surface, improves the flexibility of fabric.The process route of destarch is as follows:
Enter cloth → destarch groove → long steam box → short steam box → treatment trough → tri-rolling car → oven dry → cropping
Wherein, the speed of a motor vehicle is 40m/min; Destarch groove: temperature 60 C, 2 roads; Long steam box: temperature 40 DEG C, 1 road; Short steam box: temperature 40 DEG C, 2 roads, room temperature, 1 road; Three rolling car pressure are 3kN.
7. mercerising, carries out mercerization finish to the grey cloth after destarch, makes cotton fiber fully swelling, improves covered effect, and in mercerization finish process, carries out twice whole latitude of tentering, stablizes to make the appearance and size of fabric.Concrete mercerization route is as follows:
Enter cloth → roll alkali → spring cloth cylinder → roll alkali → spring cloth cylinder → prewash tank → cloth gripper expanding → rush alkali and inhale the alkali → straight long steam box → lixiviating of roller lixiviating groove → lixiviating rinsing bowl → lixiviating short steam box → descaling bath → rinsing bowl → tri-rolling car → skew frame → oven dry → cloth gripper expanding → preshrinking machine → cropping
Wherein, speed of a motor vehicle 40m/min, the pressure roll pressure 3kN of three rolling cars, steam box temperature 40 DEG C.
8. finished product washing, carry out leaven washing to the fabric after mercerization finish, wash post-drying, bath raio 1:15, cellulase consumption is 3% of fabric weight, and pH value is 7, and temperature is 60 DEG C, and washing time is 30 ~ 60min.
The high-elastic jean tensile elasticity percentage elongation obtained through above-mentioned technique can reach 53.5%, and tensile elasticity response rate can reach 92.7%; The fineness of yarn 48.2tex of the two elastic filament core-spun elastic yarns spun, fracture strength 12.8cN/tex.
Embodiment two
The difference of the present embodiment and embodiment one is:
1., in the two elastic filament cladded yarn technique of spinning, with 50D/24FPTT fiber filament and 30D spandex thread for heart yarn, 40tex100% combed cotton rove is wrapped yarn, adopts the two elastic filament cladded yarn of SEILE textile technique spinning; Ptt fiber long filament and spandex thread are in the ratio machine bag of 1:2.
2. in pulp technique:
Refining: the refining liquid be placed in by two elastic filament cladded yarn containing the stabilizing agent of the refining agent of 3g/L, the NaOH of 6g/L, the alkali-resistant penetrant of 2g/L and 1g/L carries out refining, and refining temperature is 30 DEG C;
Dyeing: dyeed by the dyeing liquor that the two elastic filament cladded yarns after refining are placed in containing the bipseudoindoxyl dye of the NaOH of 2g/L, the sodium hydrosulfite of 0.6g/L and 1g/L, dyeing temperature is 20 DEG C;
Starching: sizing material is containing the wax disk(-sc) of the converted starch of 50 weight portions, the acrylic size of 10 weight portions, the butter of 5 weight portions and 1 weight portion, and sizing material viscosity is 6Pas.
3. in singeing, burner and cloth cover distance 3cm.
4. in mercerization, the pressure roll pressure 2kN of three rolling cars, steam box temperature 30 DEG C.
5. in finished product washing process, cellulase consumption is 2% of fabric weight, and pH value is 6, and temperature is 50 DEG C.
Embodiment three
The difference of the present embodiment and embodiment one is:
1., in the two elastic filament cladded yarn technique of spinning, with 100D/72FPTT fiber filament and 50D spandex thread for heart yarn, 45tex100% combed cotton rove is wrapped yarn, adopts the two elastic filament cladded yarn of SEILE textile technique spinning; Ptt fiber long filament and spandex thread are in the ratio machine bag of 1:4.
2. in pulp technique:
Refining: the refining liquid be placed in by two elastic filament cladded yarn containing the stabilizing agent of the refining agent of 5g/L, the NaOH of 10g/L, the alkali-resistant penetrant of 4g/L and 3g/L carries out refining, and refining temperature is 50 DEG C;
Dyeing: dyeed by the dyeing liquor that the two elastic filament cladded yarns after refining are placed in containing the bipseudoindoxyl dye of the NaOH of 4g/L, the sodium hydrosulfite of 0.8g/L and 3g/L, dyeing temperature is 40 DEG C;
Starching: sizing material is containing the wax disk(-sc) of the converted starch of 200 weight portions, the acrylic size of 20 weight portions, the butter of 10 weight portions and 5 weight portions, and sizing material viscosity is 10Pas.
3. in singeing, burner and cloth cover distance 4cm.
4. in mercerization, the pressure roll pressure 4kN of three rolling cars, steam box temperature 50 C.
5. in finished product washing process, cellulase consumption is 4% of fabric weight, and pH value is 8, and temperature is 70 DEG C.
Above are only three detailed description of the invention of the present invention, but design concept of the present invention is not limited thereto, all changes utilizing this design the present invention to be carried out to unsubstantiality, all should belong to the behavior of invading scope.
Claims (10)
1. a high-elastic jean, is characterized in that: with ptt fiber long filament and spandex thread for heart yarn, and cotton rove is that wrapped yarn is spun into two elastic filament cladded yarn, then to be woven on three twill left to right institutional framework once by two elastic filament cladded yarn and to be formed.
2. a kind of high-elastic jean as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: described cotton rove adopts 40 ~ 45tex100% combed cotton rove, spandex thread adopts 30 ~ 50D spandex thread, ptt fiber long filament adopts 50 ~ 100D/24 ~ 72FPTT fiber filament, adopts SEILE textile technique to be spun into two elastic filament cladded yarn.
3. a production technology for the high-elastic jean as described in as arbitrary in claim 1 or 2, is characterized in that: comprise the following steps:
1. the two elastic filament cladded yarn of spinning, with ptt fiber long filament and spandex thread for heart yarn, cotton rove is that wrapped yarn is spun into two elastic filament cladded yarn;
2. warping, by warping machines by two elastic filament cladded yarn close wind in warp beam;
Two elastic filament cladded yarns after warping are carried out refining, dyeing, oxidation, washing, oven dry, starching by 3. pulp successively;
4. weave, the base weaving yarns after pulp is become the grey cloth of twill left to right institutional framework once on three;
5. singe, adopt gas singeing technique to remove the filoplume on grey cloth surface;
6. destarch, carries out destarch process to grey cloth, removes the slurry of fiber surface;
7. mercerising, carries out mercerization finish to the grey cloth after destarch, and in mercerization finish process, carry out the whole latitude of tentering;
8. finished product washing, washes the fabric after mercerization finish, washes post-drying.
4. the production technology of high-elastic jean as claimed in claim 3, it is characterized in that: in the two elastic filament cladded yarn technique of described spinning, described cotton rove adopts 40 ~ 45tex100% combed cotton rove, spandex thread adopts 30 ~ 50D spandex thread, ptt fiber long filament adopts 50 ~ 100D/24 ~ 72FPTT fiber filament, adopts SEILE textile technique to be spun into two elastic filament cladded yarn.
5. the production technology of the high-elastic jean as described in claim 3 or 4, it is characterized in that: in the two elastic filament cladded yarn technique of described spinning, ptt fiber long filament and spandex thread in the ratio machine bag of 2:1 ~ 1:5, the twist 50 ~ 70 sth. made by twisting/10cm, twist with the fingers and twist with the fingers to Z, drafting multiple 3 ~ 4 times.
6. the production technology of high-elastic jean as claimed in claim 3, it is characterized in that: in described pulp technique, the refining liquid be first placed in by two elastic filament cladded yarn containing the stabilizing agent of the refining agent of 3 ~ 5g/L, the NaOH of 6 ~ 10g/L, the alkali-resistant penetrant of 2 ~ 4g/L and 1 ~ 3g/L carries out refining, and refining temperature is 30 ~ 50 DEG C; Then, dyeed by the dyeing liquor that two elastic filament cladded yarns after refining are placed in containing the bipseudoindoxyl dye of the NaOH of 2 ~ 4g/L, the sodium hydrosulfite of 0.6 ~ 0.8g/L and 1 ~ 3g/L, dye bath amount is 1000L, and dyeing temperature is 20 ~ 40 DEG C, the speed of a motor vehicle is 20m/min, and repeated multiple times dyeing; Ventilative oxidation 80 ~ 100s is at room temperature carried out after dyeing, and repeated multiple times; Wash after oxidation, washing temperature is room temperature, washing post-drying; Finally, starching is carried out to two elastic filament cladded yarn, two elastic filament cladded yarns after washing being dried are placed in sizing material and carry out starching, sizing material is containing the wax disk(-sc) of the converted starch of 50 ~ 200 weight portions, the acrylic size of 0 ~ 20 weight portion, the butter of 0 ~ 10 weight portion and 0 ~ 5 weight portion, and sizing material viscosity is 6 ~ 10Pas.
7. the production technology of high-elastic jean as claimed in claim 3, it is characterized in that: in described weaving process, when weaving selvedge, one page heald frame organized by ground and one page heald frame contrary with one page integrated box movement direction of ground tissue carry out selvedge, during denting, organize every reed 2 to enter, the every reed 4 of Selvage Stitch enters.
8. the production technology of high-elastic jean as claimed in claim 3, it is characterized in that: in described singeing, the speed of a motor vehicle is 60m/min, number of times two of singing is positive one anti-, burner and cloth cover distance 3 ~ 4cm, flame temperature 1200 ~ 1300 DEG C, adopt steam smoothering, quality requirement of singing at least reaches 4 grades.
9. the production technology of high-elastic jean as claimed in claim 3, is characterized in that: in described mercerization, grey cloth through two to roll, two to wash, two steamings, pressure roll pressure 2 ~ 4kN, speed of a motor vehicle 40m/min, steam box temperature 30 ~ 50 DEG C, and in mercerization finish process, carry out twice whole latitude of tentering.
10. the production technology of high-elastic jean as claimed in claim 3, is characterized in that: in described finished product washing process, adopts leaven washing; bath raio 1:15, cellulase consumption is 2 ~ 4% of fabric weight, and pH value is 6 ~ 8; temperature is 50 ~ 70 DEG C, and washing time is 30 ~ 60min.
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| CN108239814A (en) * | 2018-02-27 | 2018-07-03 | 黑牡丹纺织有限公司 | Denim fabric green production process |
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