The production method of woolen shiner herringbone
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of production method of woolen shiner herringbone.Be mainly used in the tatting apparel industry.Product terminal market direction is to do the leisure clothing.Belong to field of fabric producing technology.
Background technology
Along with improving constantly of people's living standard, also more and more higher to the requirement of quality of life, also pay attention to comfortable and healthy more to the pursuit of clothing.And existing carded woollen fabric has been not suitable for the demand of higher level of consumption stratum.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to overcome above-mentioned deficiency, the production method of the woolen shiner herringbone of the suitable higher level of consumption of a kind of energy stratum demand is provided.
The object of the present invention is achieved like this: a kind of production method of woolen shiner herringbone, it is characterized in that it is to adopt 80% 70 Australian wools and 20% polyamide fibre to be spun into 20 wool yarns, there is light terylene Fil-Lumiere to be merged into parallel yarn with 150D again with the 30D chinlon filament, through weave, postfinishing process, make woolen shiner herringbone, its concrete technology is as follows:
1) dyeing
150D has light terylene Fil-Lumiere to adopt cone dyeing, selects DISPERSE DYES for use,
Wool, polyamide fibre adopt loose stock dyeing.
2) spinning
Adopt the spinning of ingot equipment, control relative humidity 60-70%, last machine regain 27%, the spinning process main technologic parameters is designed to: carding: feed gross weight 190g/ bucket, waddy rotating speed 20m/min, sliver exporting speed 22m/min, quantitatively 6.4g/m, ingot speed 1800 is changeed 1.36 times of drafting multiples
3) fancy yarns manufacturing
Adopt the wool yarn setting process, 80-85 ℃ of yarn steaming 45 minutes, carry out the fancy yarns manufacturing then, speed of a motor vehicle 8m/min, twist 330T/m, the speed ratio of heart yearn roller and Wound-up roller are 1, the speed ratio of front roller and ornamental thread roller is 1,20 wool yarn ratios 72.4%, 150D has light terylene Fil-Lumiere 23%, and 30D chinlon filament ratio is 4.6%.
4) warping is weaved cotton cloth
Adopt 3/3 twill, reach by the arrangement in 5: 1 of 20 wool yarns of two kinds of color and lusters of warp-wise
1.2.3.4.5.6 3.2.1.6.5.4Gaiting is varied to herringbone effect, and the limit yarn adopts
7.7.8.8* 5 (5 one reeds) basket weave, warp thread adopt 5 150D that light terylene Fil-Lumiere is arranged, and 20 wool yarns of a coffee, weft yarn adopt 20 wool yarns of black to form the heterochromatic effect of longitude and latitude.
5) arrangement
(1) fulling: gently contracted 6 minutes, tune was contracted 6 minutes,
(2) eliminate: soaped 30 minutes, 35 ℃ of temperature are rinsed the back well and are added and to account for raw material gross weight 2% softener HS-265 and 1% smooth agent HS-260, go out cylinder behind pH value=5,20 minute,
(3) dehydration: control moisture content 60%,
(4) baking: following machine contains damp rate 18-22%,
(5) cropping: cutter is apart from 6, and the front cuts twice,
(6) decatizing: wrapped 10 minutes for 80 ℃ with decatizing cloth.
The present invention has following characteristics:
(1) selects DISPERSE DYES for use, increased the colouring glossiness of Fil-Lumiere.
(2) have with 150D and do not produce flash effect in the light terylene Fil-Lumiere fancy yarns resultant yarn process for solving woolen yarn, and in the fault of cloth cover formation ripple.On technology, adopt principles such as slowing down the speed of a motor vehicle, control even tension, overfeeding restriction, improved the flash effect of Fil-Lumiere.
The present invention uses woolen yarn to combine the herringbone effect lining of developing with light terylene Fil-Lumiere is arranged, and lining has fine qualities such as feel is soft, frivolous, the herringbone third dimension is strong.It is the simple and unsophisticated and easy fashion lining of fashion of a kind of external form.This invention grammes per square metre is frivolous, the lining exquisiteness, and stereovision is strong, and comfortable and easy to wear being easy to nursed.
The specific embodiment
The production method of a kind of woolen shiner herringbone that the present invention relates to, it is to adopt 80% 70 Australian wools and 20% polyamide fibre to be spun into 20 wool yarns, there is light terylene Fil-Lumiere to be merged into parallel yarn with 150D again with the 30D chinlon filament, through weave, postfinishing process, make woolen shiner herringbone, its concrete technology is as follows:
(1) dyeing
150D has light terylene Fil-Lumiere to adopt cone dyeing, selects DISPERSE DYES for use, has improved the colouring glossiness that light terylene Fil-Lumiere is arranged.
Woolen dyed employing loose stock dyeing and cone dyeing.Because the oil and fat content of wool own is higher, therefore need to carry out preliminary treatment before the dyeing.Its objective is the grease of removing in the wool, promote colouring, improve the Dry Sack rate, also in order to improve spinning property.
(2) spinning
For guaranteeing the bar evenness of yarn, adopt the spinning of ingot equipment.Control relative humidity 60-70%, last machine regain 27%, the spinning process main technologic parameters is designed to: carding: feed gross weight 190g/ bucket, waddy rotating speed 20m/min, sliver exporting speed 22m/min, quantitative 6.4g/m, ingot speed 1800 is changeed 1.36 times of drafting multiples.And adopt and to do knotless yarn from Spooling oquipment further to improve the bar solid carbon dioxide of yarn flat.
(3) fancy yarns manufacturing
Because the ripple yarn that higher and the non-twist tow of slubbing yarn twist forms does not produce flash effect, so adopts the wool yarn setting process, make its single twist not produce untwisting in process of production and feed simultaneously with non-twist tow and then become parallel shape.The wool yarn setting process adopted 80-85 ℃ of yarn steaming 45 minutes.When having light terylene Fil-Lumiere and 30D that the doubling of light chinlon filament is arranged with 150D, require even tension, overfeeding can not be too big, and two kinds of yarn bag jails can not slippage, and makes yarn integral body almost not see the effect of FANCY YARNS.Major parameter is designed to: speed of a motor vehicle 8m, and twist 330T/m, the speed ratio of heart yearn roller and Wound-up roller are 1, the speed ratio of front roller and ornamental thread roller is 1,
(4) warping is weaved cotton cloth
This product is the line face fabric of herringbone flower type.Because long contracting is designed to 94%, the grey cloth grammes per square metre requires to be controlled at 403g/m.Weaving process adopts 3/3 twill, arranges at 5: 1 by 20 wool yarns of two kinds of color and lusters of warp-wise to reach
1.2.3.4.5.6 3.2.1.6.5.4Gait and be varied to herringbone effect.The limit yarn adopts
7.7.8.8* 5 (5 one reeds) basket weave, selvedge is more smooth.Warp thread adopts 5 150D that light terylene Fil-Lumiere is arranged, and 20 wool yarns of a coffee, weft yarn adopt 20 wool yarns of black to form the heterochromatic effect of longitude and latitude.
(5) arrangement
The frivolous exquisiteness of this lining, the lining surface is abundant, and feel is soft, and the herringbone third dimension is strong.For reaching above characteristics, following technology and flow process have been adopted: finished product grammes per square metre: 400g/m, the door width of cloth: 150cm.Technological process: fulling → eliminate → dewater → dry by the fire → cropping → decatizing.
(1) fulling: gently contracted 6 minutes, tune was contracted 6 minutes.
(2) eliminate: soaped 30 minutes, 35 ℃ of temperature add after rinsing well and account for raw material gross weight 2% softener HS-265, and 1% smooth agent HS-260 goes out cylinder behind pH value=5,20 minute.
(3) dehydration: the control moisture content reaches 60%.
(4) baking: following gate width of cloth 155cm, following machine contain damp rate and reach 18-22%.
(5) cropping: cutter is apart from 6, and cut twice in the front.
(6) decatizing: wrapped 10 minutes for 80 ℃ with decatizing cloth.