CN103541102B - CM800 stretch worsted fancy suiting - Google Patents
CM800 stretch worsted fancy suiting Download PDFInfo
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- CN103541102B CN103541102B CN201310488623.3A CN201310488623A CN103541102B CN 103541102 B CN103541102 B CN 103541102B CN 201310488623 A CN201310488623 A CN 201310488623A CN 103541102 B CN103541102 B CN 103541102B
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Abstract
The invention discloses CM800 stretch worsted fancy suiting made by interweaving warps (1) and wefts (2). The warps (1) are made of high-count wool-polyester blended yarns (3). The wefts (2) are made by alternately arranging and beating up high-count wool-polyester blended yarns (3) and 75D/1CM800 stretch filaments (4). The invention further provides a production method of CM800 stretch worsted fancy suiting. The high-count wool-polyester blended yarns and 75D/1CM800 stretch filaments are perfectly combined in the suiting, the problems in the process of adding the CM800 stretch filaments into fabric are solved, fine features of the CM800 stretch filaments are fully protected and embodied in the suiting, the product is soft and smooth to touch, elegant in texture, high in elasticity, and less prone to wrinkling, also has good drapability, thermoplasticity, size stability and gloss elegance, and is ideal suit fabric.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of smart wool spinning fabric, particularly relate to a kind of CM800 elasticity fancy worsted and production method thereof.
Background technology
Along with the development of society, improving constantly of people's living standard, fabric is not only required attractive in appearance, generous, magnificent, the more important thing is environmental protection, health, comfortable, especially for formal dress fabric, each side requires harsh especially, therefore requires that we must increase the style characteristic of product on the basis of original fabric, improves the scientific and technological content of product.
At present, in this area, adopt du pont company's technical support, the method of composite spinning arranged side by side is utilized by PTT and PET two kinds of raw materials to produce and obtained a kind of new polyester elastomer CM800, have another name called PTT/PET bicomponent fiber, which overcome the shortcoming that spandex bag stamen yarn stockinette easily shows money or valuables one carries unintentionally, fabric is made to have good elasticity and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, clothing is comfortable and easy to wear simultaneously, easily arrange, but, but a lot of difficult point is had being joined by this elastomer CM800 in the production technology in fabric, such as CM800 elastic filament is different from worsted yarn, very easily broken end is produced in weaving process, in Final finishing process, fabric very easily produces scratch, non-refractory, simultaneously because CM800 elastic filament belongs to high-elastic product, door width is very difficult to the problems such as control.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to overcome CM800 elastic filament and will join difficulty in fabric, there is provided a kind of soft smooth, quality is graceful, good springiness, do not crease easily, and also has the Novel elastic fabric of good drapability, thermoplasticity, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, gloss gracefulness simultaneously---CM800 elasticity fancy worsted.
A kind of CM800 elasticity fancy worsted, is formed by warp thread and weft yarns, and warp thread is a high wool-polyester yarn, and the high wool-polyester yarn of weft yarn employing and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament are spaced to beat up and form, and wherein, it is by 90 that described height props up wool-polyester yarn
saustralia's hair and 2.2D blend polyester are made; In this fabric 90
sthe weight ratio of Australia's hair is 60%, the weight ratio of 2.2D terylene is 26%, the weight ratio of 75D/1CM800 elastic filament is 14%.
Another object of the present invention is to provide the preparation method of above-mentioned CM800 elasticity fancy worsted.
The production method of above-mentioned CM800 elasticity fancy worsted, it comprises following steps:
(1), first by 90
saustralian wool, 2.2D polyster fibre make bar through the recombing of bar dye, then make a high wool-polyester yarn through spinning; Described bar dye recombing technique comprises: dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → secondary silver mixing → last grilling → the first two grilling → combing → rear grilling → rear two grillings → rear three grillings → slivering; Described spinning process comprises: silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → bis-pin → tri-pin → tetra-pin → rove → spun yarn → from winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming;
(2), by the height made prop up that wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament adopt that warp thread is a high wool-polyester yarn, weft yarn adopts high wool-polyester yarn and the 75D/1CM800 elastic filament of propping up to be spaced to beat up to form and to weave, obtain the grey cloth of fancy worsted; Wherein:
Weaving process comprises: warping → gait, denting → weave → base inspection → life are repaiied; Wherein, warping technology state modulator is: linear velocity 300m/min, general linear velocity is 380m/min, because CM800 elastic filament is different from worsted yarn, in weaving process, very easily produces broken end, therefore the reduction of this place's Negotiation speed, thus avoid broken end serious, weaving efficiency is improved, beaming linear velocity 50m/min, yarn tension 3.5 degree, beaming tension force 1kg; Meanwhile, adjustment Warp line is back rest front and back position 105cm, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm, tension force 200KG; The adjustment of this Warp line can solve fault such as latitude bow yarn, skips etc.In addition, because CM800 elastic filament very easily abrades fluffing, therefore need in process of production to keep CM800 elastic filament bobbin, weft accumulator, tension piece, weft detector, color selection box rifle head and the equal impulse-free robustness of each porcelain eye passage; In order to reach better effect, controlling left and right tucking machine, the travelling scissors edge of a knife is sharp, prevent the long filament cut off from forming flyings and inweave cloth cover; Left sword head jaw can not have flyings, and weft-sending sword head yarn gripper suitably adjusts before and after machine, and keep the air draught state of left rail plate intact, in the middle of cloth cover sword head, junction cloth cover hair adjusts in time; Weft accumulator all makes of wool hairbrush, form because weft yarn adopts a Gen Gaozhi wool-polyester yarn and a CM800 elastic filament A1B1 to beat up, beat up i.e. a Gen Gaozhi wool-polyester yarn and a CM800 elastic filament of a so-called Gen Gaozhi wool-polyester yarn and CM800 elastic filament A1B1 is spaced and beats up, so weft tension mainly regulates on hairbrush, during production, to guarantee that wool yarn is consistent with CM800 elastic filament even tension.The loose thread breaked end in process of production will be cut on cloth cover, and cloth cover can not have loose thread.The loom speed of a motor vehicle should control at about 330 revs/min.
(3), by fancy worsted grey cloth through row dyeing and finishing, its technique is: base examines → singes → and flatly boil → wash contracting → open-width → flat and boil → shape and softly → ripe to repair → bristle → singe → put down and boil → dry → dewing → high pressure steaming → tank steaming → boiling hot steaming → tank steaming → finished product; Wherein, because CM800 elastic filament is different from worsted yarn, in Final finishing process, fabric very easily abrades, therefore in whole production process, fabric needs in open width shape, without rope form, prevents fabric from abrading.In addition, because CM800 elastic filament is not easily high temperature resistant, for preventing the damage of CM800 elastic filament, whole production process temperature can not be too high, normal hair washs the setting temperature of kind should at T=195 DEG C, but CM800 temperature under the prerequisite meeting washing shrinkage should control at T=160-170 DEG C.Meanwhile, because CM800 elastic filament belongs to high-elastic product, door width is very difficult to control, in Final finishing production process, for obtaining the finished door width needed smoothly, before sizing softness and roars of laughter two-step process, can first measure wet width, determine the door width of open-width again, between dry blowing, measure wet fabric width according to wet whole institute narrow for tank steaming process, then determine tank steaming whether weft straightener production, if a door wider weft straightener that needed is produced, if door width is partially narrow just do not need weft straightener, reach required finished door width thus.Singeing: positive and negative respectively once, adopts 2 singeings that the face of product can be made brighter and cleaner.Bristle: 2 positive 1 is anti-, can give appropriate steam simultaneously.
CM800 elasticity fancy worsted of the present invention is spaced to beat up by the high wool-polyester yarn of weft yarn employing and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament and adds CM800 elastic filament, and by accurately controlling to weave, dyeing and finishing technology, overcome CM800 elastic filament in process of production and very easily produce broken end in weaving process, in Final finishing process, fabric very easily produces scratch and belongs to high-elastic product due to CM800 elastic filament, door width is very difficult to the difficult point controlled, CM800 elastic filament joins in fabric by success, what make CM800 elastic filament overcomes the shortcoming that spandex bag stamen yarn stockinette easily shows money or valuables one carries unintentionally, the good elasticity of fabric and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY can be supplied to, clothing is comfortable and easy to wear simultaneously, the good characteristic easily arranged is adequately protected and is embodied in fabric, make product good springiness, do not crease easily, there is good drapability, thermoplasticity and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, prop up after wool-polyester yarn is combined with height, product is allowed to embody especially soft smooth, quality is graceful, the feature of gloss gracefulness.
The present invention's beneficial effect is compared with prior art:
Warp thread of the present invention is a high wool-polyester yarn, weft yarn forms for a high wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament are spaced to beat up, height is propped up wool-polyester yarn and the perfect adaptation of 75D/1CM800 elastic filament, make the product that obtains soft smooth, quality is graceful, good springiness, do not crease easily, also there is good drapability, thermoplasticity, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, gloss gracefulness simultaneously, be a desirable formal dress fabric, be relatively applicable to making popular weight reducing version western-style clothes at present simultaneously.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the structural representation of CM800 elasticity fancy worsted of the present invention.
Wherein 1 is warp thread; 2 is weft yarn; 3 is a high wool-polyester yarn; 4 is CM800 elastic filament.
Detailed description of the invention
Embodiment 1
First by 90
saustralian wool, 2.2D polyster fibre make bar through the recombing of bar dye, then prop up wool-polyester yarn through the spinning height made as shown in Figure 1; Described bar dye recombing technique comprises: dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → secondary silver mixing → last grilling → the first two grilling → combing → rear grilling → rear two grillings → rear three grillings → slivering; Described spinning process comprises: silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → bis-pin → tri-pin → tetra-pin → rove → spun yarn → from winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming;
Again the height made is propped up that wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament adopt that warp thread 1 is as shown in Figure 1 a high wool-polyester yarn 3, weft yarn 2 adopts a high wool-polyester yarn 3 to be spaced to beat up to form with 75D/1CM800 elastic filament 4 and to weave, obtain the grey cloth of fancy worsted; Wherein: weaving process comprises: warping → gait, denting → weave → base inspection → life are repaiied; Wherein warping technology parameter is: linear velocity 300m/min, beaming linear velocity 50m/min, yarn tension 3.5 degree, beaming tension force 1kg; Meanwhile, adjustment Warp line is back rest front and back position 105cm, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm, tension force 200KG; Need in production process to keep CM800 elastic filament bobbin, weft accumulator, tension piece, weft detector, color selection box rifle head and the equal impulse-free robustness of each porcelain eye passage; In order to reach better scratching effect, left and right tucking machine can be controlled, the travelling scissors edge of a knife is sharp, prevent the long filament cut off from forming flyings and inweave cloth cover; Left sword head jaw can not have flyings, and weft-sending sword head yarn gripper suitably adjusts before and after machine, and keep the air draught state of left rail plate intact, in the middle of cloth cover sword head, junction cloth cover hair adjusts in time; Weft accumulator all makes of wool hairbrush, guarantees that wool yarn is consistent with CM800 elastic filament even tension during production.The loose thread breaked end in process of production will be cut on cloth cover, and cloth cover can not have loose thread.The loom speed of a motor vehicle should control at 330 revs/min.
Finally, by fancy worsted grey cloth through row dyeing and finishing, its technique is: base examines → singes → and flatly boil → wash contracting → open-width → flat and boil → shape and softly → ripe to repair → bristle → singe → put down and boil → dry → dewing → high pressure steaming → tank steaming → boiling hot steaming → tank steaming → finished product; In whole production process, fabric needs in open width shape, without rope form, temperature controls at T=160-170 DEG C.In Final finishing production process, for obtaining the finished door width needed smoothly, before sizing softness and roars of laughter two-step process, can first measure wet width, then determine the door width of open-width, between dry blowing, to measure according to wet whole institute the fabric width that wets narrow for tank steaming process, determine tank again and steam whether cross weft straightener production, if a door wider weft straightener that needed is produced, if door width is partially narrow just do not need weft straightener, reach required finished door width thus.Singeing: positive and negative respectively once, adopts 2 singeings that the face of product can be made brighter and cleaner.Bristle: 2 is positive 1 anti-.
90 are had in this finished product
saustralia's hair 60%, 2.2D terylene 26%, CM800 elastic filament 14%; Warp count: 466/10cm, weft count: 490/10cm, fabric width: 152cm, weight per square meter: 161. 2g/m2, meter Chong: 245g/m.
The above, be only the specific embodiment of the present invention, but protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any change of expecting without creative work or replacement, all should be encompassed within protection scope of the present invention.Therefore, the protection domain that protection scope of the present invention should limit with claims is as the criterion.
Claims (2)
1. a CM800 elasticity fancy worsted, be interwoven by warp thread (1) and weft yarn (2), it is characterized in that, wherein warp thread (1) is a high wool-polyester yarn (3), and the high wool-polyester yarn (3) of weft yarn (2) employing is spaced to beat up with 75D/1CM800 elastic filament (4) and forms; It is by 90 that described height props up wool-polyester yarn
saustralia's hair and 2.2D blend polyester are made; In this fancy worsted 90
sthe weight ratio of Australia's hair is 60%, the weight ratio of 2.2D terylene is 26%, the weight ratio of 75D/1CM800 elastic filament is 14%.
2. the production method of CM800 elasticity fancy worsted according to claim 1, it comprises following steps:
(1), first by 90
saustralian wool, 2.2D polyster fibre make bar through the recombing of bar dye, then make a high wool-polyester yarn through spinning;
(2), by the height made prop up that wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament adopt that warp thread is a high wool-polyester yarn, weft yarn adopts high wool-polyester yarn and the 75D/1CM800 elastic filament of propping up to be spaced to beat up to form and to weave, obtain the grey cloth of fancy worsted; Wherein:
Described weaving process comprises warping → gait, denting → weave → base inspection → raw is repaiied; Wherein the parameter of warping technology is linear velocity 300m/min, beaming linear velocity 50m/min, yarn tension 3.5 degree, beaming tension force 1kg, the loom speed of a motor vehicle 330 revs/min; Adjustment Warp line is back rest front and back position 105cm, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm, tension force 200KG; Require CM800 elastic filament bobbin, weft accumulator, tension piece, weft detector, color selection box rifle head and each porcelain eye passage impulse-free robustness in process of production; Control left and right tucking machine, the travelling scissors edge of a knife is sharp, prevent the long filament cut off from forming flyings and inweave cloth cover; Left sword head jaw can not have flyings, and weft-sending sword head yarn gripper suitably adjusts before and after machine, and keep the air draught state of left rail plate intact, in the middle of cloth cover sword head, junction cloth cover hair adjusts in time; Weft accumulator all makes of wool hairbrush, guarantees that wool yarn is consistent with CM800 elastic filament even tension during production; The loose thread breaked end in process of production will be cut on cloth cover, and cloth cover can not have loose thread;
(3), by fancy worsted grey cloth carry out dyeing and finishing, its technique is: base examines → singes → and flatly boil → wash contracting → open-width → flat and boil → shape and softly → ripe to repair → bristle → singe → put down and boil → dry → dewing → high pressure steaming → tank steaming → boiling hot steaming → tank steaming → finished product; Wherein: in whole dyeing and finishing process, fabric needs in open width shape, without rope form, control temperature is 160 ~ 170 DEG C; Before sizing softness and roars of laughter two-step process, the first wet width of amount, determine the door width of open-width again, between dry blowing, to measure according to wet whole institute the fabric width that wets narrow for tank steaming process, determine tank again and steam whether cross weft straightener production, if a door wider weft straightener that needed is produced, if door width is partially narrow just do not need weft straightener, reach required finished door width thus; Positive and negative of singing is each once; Bristle technique is 2 positive 1 anti-.
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| CN104294454A (en) * | 2014-10-18 | 2015-01-21 | 江苏澳洋纺织实业有限公司 | Comfortable and elastic tweed |
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| CN109208153A (en) * | 2018-09-14 | 2019-01-15 | 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 | Gao Zhimei elater permanently plays the production technology of worsted fabric |
| CN110699804A (en) * | 2019-10-16 | 2020-01-17 | 江苏华鹿纺织有限公司 | Sirospun yarn based on CM800 stretch yarn and preparation method thereof |
| CN115491806A (en) * | 2022-10-10 | 2022-12-20 | 山东南山智尚科技股份有限公司 | Method for producing semi-combed windproof fabric by using worsted wool loops |
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