CN104514071A - Wool/cattle fluff fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Wool/cattle fluff fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104514071A
CN104514071A CN201410809608.9A CN201410809608A CN104514071A CN 104514071 A CN104514071 A CN 104514071A CN 201410809608 A CN201410809608 A CN 201410809608A CN 104514071 A CN104514071 A CN 104514071A
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China
Prior art keywords
fiber
mulberry silk
copper ammonia
wool
dyeing
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CN201410809608.9A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
孙云丰
张建刚
胡蓉
李敏芳
庞志红
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JIANGSU HUAXI VILLAGE WORSTED TEXTILE CO Ltd
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JIANGSU HUAXI VILLAGE WORSTED TEXTILE CO Ltd
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Priority to CN201410809608.9A priority Critical patent/CN104514071A/en
Publication of CN104514071A publication Critical patent/CN104514071A/en
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  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a wool/cattle fluff fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabric. The fabric comprises the following material components in percentage by weight: 30% of wool fibers, 24% of cattle fluff fibers, 26% of mulberry silk and 20% of copper ammonia fibers. The preparation method includes the steps of: top dyeing and re-combing, spinning, weaving and dyeing and finishing; the top dying and re-combing process includes, dying separately, dehydrating and backwashing, and mixing the wool fibers, the mulberry silk and the copper ammonia fibers by B412, gilling for three times during the mixing process, adding the mulberry silk for three times, gilling by B303 and B304, and combing by B311, adding the cattle fluff fibers during the gilling process of B305, then gilling by B305 for a second time, and at last combing by B306. The prepared product is gentle in gloss, soft, fine and smooth and good in drapability, has the texture and style of silk fabric, and is low in cost.

Description

Wool/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics and preparation method
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of wool/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics and preparation method.
Background technology
The features such as cashmere product belongs to garment material expensive goods, ventilative, warming, moistureproof, soft flexible, good hand touch, gloss are natural are well received by consumers.But the output of cashmere fiber is subject to the restriction of natural environment and ecological factor, growing high consumption demand can not be met.Therefore, need to develop there is certain technology content, weaving face fabric containing high added value, substitute cashmere product, make the outward appearance of its product, feel reaches effect same.In wearability with take advantage in price.Adopt ox Down Fiber to replace cashmere fiber to be the Normal practice of the industry, but ox Down Fiber length is short, average length is about 28mm, and crimpness, Curl are poorer than wool fibre, dye after decolouring again, and the spinnability of ox Down Fiber is poor, and pure to spin difficulty large.
In addition, in order to increase glossiness, the slipping of fabric, improving drapability, usually in fabric, using mulberry silk, but because mulberry silk fiber is long and sliding, difficult combing, common addition is all less than within 15%, when reaching 15% is, be all employing wool fibre and mulberry silk and and the mode of twisting, or when weaving, the manufacture method of hair, a rhizoid, the fabric feel style that this kind of method is made is stiff, glossiness is poor, not soft.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to overcome above-mentioned deficiency, provide a kind of product gloss soft, soft fine and smooth, drapability is good, has the quality of silk fabrics and style, wool/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics that cost is low and preparation method.
The object of the present invention is achieved like this:
A kind of wool/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics, the raw material composition mass ratio of described fabric is: wool fibre 30%, ox Down Fiber 24%, mulberry silk 26%, copper ammonia fibre 20%.
Described fabric specification is:
Warp thread yarn count: 98/2
Weft yarn yarn count: 98/2+60/1
Finished product warp/filling density: 424 × 339/10cm
Weight per square meter: 155g/ ㎡
Finished door width: 155-2cm.
The preparation method of a kind of wool/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics, described method comprises bar dye, recombing operation, spinning process, weaving process and dyeing and finishing process, contaminate at bar, in recombing operation, adopt dyeing separately, dehydration, after after backwashing, by wool fibre, mulberry silk and copper ammonia fibre are through B412 silver mixing, grilling three times in silver mixing process, mulberry silk divides three times and adds, again through B303 grilling, B304 grilling, after B311 combing, ox Down Fiber is added in B305 grilling process, then second time B305 grilling is passed through, the most laggard B306 grilling excessively.
Through desolventing technology before the dyeing of ox suede: comprise slaine preliminary treatment, cleaning and bleaching.Slaine preliminary treatment: a certain amount of fiber is put into the copperas solution containing reductant, processes at a certain temperature.Cleaning: hot water cleaning is at 70 DEG C of washing 20min; Auxiliary agent cleaning adds a certain amount of WP-803 auxiliary agent 70 DEG C washing 20min in cleaner bath.Bleaching: by the sample through preliminary treatment and cleaning process, put in the hydrogen peroxide solution containing stabilizing agent.After decolouring, the colouring of ox Down Fiber is fast, and when ox Down Fiber dyeing temperature rests in 80 DEG C, dye-uptake is very fast, and when 80 DEG C, held for some time heats up again, strengthens boiling dye temperature retention time, guarantees dyefastness, reduces fibre damage.Add appropriate bleeding agent during the dyeing of ox Down Fiber, improve dyeing uniformity, strictly control dyeing temperature, prevent uneven dyeing phenomenon.Add appropriate brightening agent during dyeing, the yellowing of the rear fiber of ox Down Fiber decolouring can be reduced.
the main production flow process of preparation method of the present invention is:
(1) bar dye, recombing: the pinecone → dyeing → dehydration → after backwashing → B412(grilling three times) → B303 → B304 → B311(combing) → B305 adds ox Down Fiber () → B305(bis-) → B306
(2) spin: B412 silver mixing → B423 scalp acupuncture → B432 bis-pins → B442 tri-pins → B452 tetra-pins → FB441(thick) → FB441(thick two) → spun yarn → automatic winding → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming
(3) weave: warping → gait, plug in reed, inserted sheet → arrow shaft are weaved
(4) dyeing and finishing: flat to boil → braying → bis-ly boil → roll baking → middle inspection → ripe and repair → brush and cut → HEAT SETTING → dewing → KD → voltage → KD → finished product.
Compared with prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects as follows:
This product selects wool fibre, ox Down Fiber, copper ammonia fibre and mulberry silk fiber four kinds of raw material compositions.Sliding soft plentiful, the fineness of ox Down Fiber, wool fibre feel evenly, excellent spring, copper ammonia fibre is soft, gloss is soft, and sericeous texture, mulberry silk fiber reaches 26%, good luster, and feel is smooth.Product gloss is soft, and soft fine and smooth, drapability is good, has quality and the style of silk fabrics.
Ox Down Fiber length is short, and average length is about 28mm, and crimpness, Curl are poorer than wool fibre, dye after decolouring again, and the spinnability of ox Down Fiber is poor, and pure to spin difficulty large.According to property of raw material, select wool fibre, copper ammonia fibre and mulberry silk fiber to carry out mixing combing, add ox Down Fiber at B305, namely ox Down Fiber is without combing process, makes up ox Down Fiber too short.
In B412 silver mixing grilling operation, through three grillings, mulberry silk fiber divides three times and adds, and does not need to get final product direct blending through twisting process, and gloss is soft, and smooth, drapability is good, not stiff.
Detailed description of the invention
A kind of wool/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics, the raw material composition mass ratio of described fabric is: wool fibre 30%, ox Down Fiber 24%, mulberry silk 26%, copper ammonia fibre 20%.
Described fabric specification is:
Warp thread yarn count: 98/2
Weft yarn yarn count: 98/2+60/1
Finished product warp/filling density: 424 × 339/10cm
Weight per square meter: 155g/ ㎡
Finished door width: 155-2cm.
A preparation method for wool/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics, its main production flow process:
(1) bar dye, recombing: the pinecone → dyeing → dehydration → after backwashing → B412(grilling three times) → B303 → B304 → B311(combing) → B305 adds ox Down Fiber () → B305(bis-) → B306
(2) spin: B412 silver mixing → B423 scalp acupuncture → B432 bis-pins → B442 tri-pins → B452 tetra-pins → FB441(thick) → FB441(thick two) → spun yarn → automatic winding → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming
(3) weave: warping → gait, plug in reed, inserted sheet → arrow shaft are weaved
(4) dyeing and finishing: flat to boil → braying → bis-ly boil → roll baking → middle inspection → ripe and repair → brush and cut → HEAT SETTING → dewing → KD → voltage → KD → finished product
1, bar dye, recombing technique
(1) dyeing
Ox suede desolventing technology: slaine preliminary treatment, cleaning and bleaching.Slaine preliminary treatment: a certain amount of fiber is put into the copperas solution containing reductant, processes at a certain temperature.Cleaning: hot water cleaning is at 70 DEG C of washing 20min; Auxiliary agent cleaning adds a certain amount of WP-803 auxiliary agent 70 DEG C washing 20min in cleaner bath.Bleaching: by the sample through preliminary treatment and cleaning process, put in the hydrogen peroxide solution containing stabilizing agent.After decolouring, the colouring of ox Down Fiber is fast, and when ox Down Fiber dyeing temperature rests in 80 DEG C, dye-uptake is very fast, and when 80 DEG C, held for some time heats up again, strengthens boiling dye temperature retention time, guarantees dyefastness, reduces fibre damage.Add appropriate bleeding agent during the dyeing of ox Down Fiber, improve dyeing uniformity, strictly control dyeing temperature, prevent uneven dyeing phenomenon.Add appropriate brightening agent during dyeing, the yellowing of the rear fiber of ox Down Fiber decolouring can be reduced.
(2) recombing technique
In recombing process, reduce wool top feed quantity, increase silver mixing and grilling number of times, reduce discrete length between wool fibre and other fiber comparatively large, and the difficult drawing-off produced, difficult combing phenomenon.Silver mixing is selected spray form oiling method, prevents in carding process around hair.Combing machine spaces and selects 26mm, and top comb pin number is 33, and fiber is reached and mixes, Combing Quality is effectively controlled.Control workshop moisture temperature well, make that lower machine wool top is heavy irregularly to be controlled within 1.5%.
2, spinning process
(1) because ox Down Fiber is shorter, in drafting process, easily produce cohesive force poor, affect rove evenness quality, in production process, the hair that flies of ox suede falls the more difficult control of suede situation, according to material performance feature, in process of production by slowing down the speed of a motor vehicle, reducing and space, control workshop moisture temperature.
(2) spun yarn is in process of production in order to ensure that bar is evenly dry, adopts the production technology of little drawing-off, the low speed of a motor vehicle.
(3) control the humiture in workshop well, ensure carrying out smoothly of spinning.
3, weaving process
Weave tension in Warping strictly to control, the pressure of row before, during and after controlling well.Configuration tension ring, accomplishes tension force, arrangement, winding three evenly, ensures that the passage of yarn is smooth, smooth and easy.Strengthen tours of inspection, ensure that flower pattern is errorless, improve grey quality, reduce or avoid unnecessary waste and quality problems.
4, dyeing and finishing technology
In order to make fabric soft glutinous smooth, each procedure of dyeing and finishing is produced for main with small tension receiving coil, low temperature control.
(1) copper ammonia fibre non-refractory, therefore cancels operation of singing, and adopts and strengthens brush shear method, removes the staple fibre of outstanding fabric face.
(2) first boil and wash afterwards (open washing), prevent bar folding line from producing, crabbing temperature controls at 85 DEG C.
(3) dry whole technique adopts KD-voltage-KD technique, and improve the surface evenness of product, internal performance quality stability, makes product embody body bone, hangs down and feels good and sliding glutinous sense.
Wool fibre/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk fiber/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics is through Jiangsu Prov. Textile Inst. Co., Ltd.'s Physico-chemical tests Spot detection, and every inherent index reaches the requirement of FZ/T24002-2006 " combing worsted spinning " Grade A.

Claims (5)

1. wool/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics, is characterized in that: the raw material composition mass ratio of described fabric is: wool fibre 30%, ox Down Fiber 24%, mulberry silk 26%, copper ammonia fibre 20%.
2. a kind of wool according to claim 1/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics, it is characterized in that, described fabric specification is:
Warp thread yarn count: 98/2
Weft yarn yarn count: 98/2+60/1
Finished product warp/filling density: 424 × 339/10cm
Weight per square meter: 155g/ ㎡
Finished door width: 155-2cm.
3. prepare the method for wool according to claim 1/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics, it is characterized in that, described method comprises bar dye, recombing operation, spinning process, weaving process and dyeing and finishing process; In bar dye, recombing operation, adopt dyeing separately, after dehydration, after backwashing, by wool fibre, mulberry silk and copper ammonia fibre through B412 silver mixing, grilling three times in silver mixing process, mulberry silk divides three times and adds, again after B303 grilling, B304 grilling, B311 combing, in B305 grilling process, add ox Down Fiber, then pass through second time B305 grilling, the most laggard B306 grilling excessively.
4. the preparation method of wool according to claim 3/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics, is characterized in that, through desolventing technology before the dyeing of ox suede: it comprises slaine preliminary treatment, cleaning and drift;
Wherein:
Slaine preliminary treatment: the copperas solution that ox Down Fiber is put into containing reductant is processed;
Cleaning: hot water cleaning is at 70 DEG C of washing 20min; Auxiliary agent cleaning adds auxiliary agent 70 DEG C washing 20min in cleaner bath;
Bleaching: by the sample through preliminary treatment and cleaning process, put in the hydrogen peroxide solution containing stabilizing agent.
5. the preparation method of the wool according to claim 3 or 4/ox Down Fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabrics, is characterized in that, the main production flow process of described method is:
(1) bar dye, recombing: the pinecone → dyeing → dehydration → after backwashing → B412 grilling three times → B303 → B304 → B311 combing → B305 adds ox Down Fiber one → B305 bis-→ B306;
(2) spin: B412 silver mixing → B423 scalp acupuncture → B432 bis-pins → B442 tri-pins → thick two → spun yarn of the thick one → FB441 of B452 tetra-pins → FB441 → automatic winding → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming;
(3) weave: warping → gait, plug in reed, inserted sheet → arrow shaft are weaved
(4) dyeing and finishing: flat to boil → braying → bis-ly boil → roll baking → middle inspection → ripe and repair → brush and cut → HEAT SETTING → dewing → KD → voltage → KD → finished product.
CN201410809608.9A 2014-12-24 2014-12-24 Wool/cattle fluff fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabric and preparation method thereof Pending CN104514071A (en)

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Cited By (6)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105200792A (en) * 2015-10-22 2015-12-30 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Preparation method of fabric with skin care effect
CN105714445A (en) * 2016-02-23 2016-06-29 江苏工程职业技术学院 Processing method of cashmere-inlaid short-fiber real silk scarf
CN110644110A (en) * 2019-09-11 2020-01-03 山东南山智尚科技股份有限公司 Environment-friendly close-fitting wearable worsted fabric and processing method thereof
CN112617305A (en) * 2020-12-29 2021-04-09 重庆市江北区段记服饰有限公司 Warm-keeping suit and preparation method of suit fabric
CN112981638A (en) * 2021-02-04 2021-06-18 宁波康赛妮纺织品有限公司 Preparation method of worsted cuprammonium cashmere fiber
CN113832587A (en) * 2021-09-26 2021-12-24 纵理想 Worsted wool fabric and manufacturing process thereof

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CN105200792A (en) * 2015-10-22 2015-12-30 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Preparation method of fabric with skin care effect
CN105200792B (en) * 2015-10-22 2017-05-10 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Preparation method of fabric with skin care effect
CN105714445A (en) * 2016-02-23 2016-06-29 江苏工程职业技术学院 Processing method of cashmere-inlaid short-fiber real silk scarf
CN110644110A (en) * 2019-09-11 2020-01-03 山东南山智尚科技股份有限公司 Environment-friendly close-fitting wearable worsted fabric and processing method thereof
CN112617305A (en) * 2020-12-29 2021-04-09 重庆市江北区段记服饰有限公司 Warm-keeping suit and preparation method of suit fabric
CN112981638A (en) * 2021-02-04 2021-06-18 宁波康赛妮纺织品有限公司 Preparation method of worsted cuprammonium cashmere fiber
CN113832587A (en) * 2021-09-26 2021-12-24 纵理想 Worsted wool fabric and manufacturing process thereof

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Application publication date: 20150415