CN103126143A - Pearl fiber shirt fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Pearl fiber shirt fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN103126143A CN103126143A CN2013100810466A CN201310081046A CN103126143A CN 103126143 A CN103126143 A CN 103126143A CN 2013100810466 A CN2013100810466 A CN 2013100810466A CN 201310081046 A CN201310081046 A CN 201310081046A CN 103126143 A CN103126143 A CN 103126143A
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Abstract
The invention provides a pearl fiber shirt fabric which has silky luster and is less in hairiness and anti-pilling. Warps and weft yarns of the pearl fiber shirt fabric are all 120 Ne two-fold yarns which are formed by compact spinning of 30% pearl fibers, 20% spun silks and 50% long stapled cottons. The invention further provides a preparation method of the pearl fiber shirt fabric. The preparation method of the pearl fiber shirt fabric includes the following steps: a, spinning; enabling part of combing long stapled cottons to be mixed with the spun silks and the pearl fibers and rolled in the process of opening picking, then drawing after cotton carding, mixing with other combing long stapled cottons and then through the processes of roving, fine spinning, spooling and two-for-one twisting; b, cheese dyeing; including the steps of cheese loosing, preprocessing, dyeing, hot washing, acid-washing, soaping, hot washing, cold washing, color fixing, softening, cylinder discharging, drying and cheese fastening, the preprocessing includes bleaching and enzyme treatment; c, weaving; including the steps of beaming, drafting, slashing and weaving; and d; post-processing, including the steps of desizing, softening, sizing and preshrinking.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of shirt fabric, specifically, a kind of pearl fiber shirt fabric of the present invention and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Pursue today of health, environmental protection, fashion people, pursuit becomes inevitable to the dress-goods high-grade.Traditional shirt fabric mostly is greatly the common ring ingot and spins cotton textiles or polyester-cotton blend fabric, has used on a small quantity tencel, particularly has the functional fibers such as health, nutrition skin, antibacterial deodourizing and uses seldom.Analyzing its reason, is on the one hand that functional tencel manufacturer is less, and market supply is not enough, and expensive; Be that general tencel spinnability is relatively poor on the other hand, development cost are higher, and difficulty is larger, cause the finished product price higher, reduced consumer's consumption wish.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of gloss as silk that has, filoplume is few, the pearl fiber shirt fabric of anti pilling.
Pearl fiber shirt fabric of the present invention, warp thread is with weft yarn 120 English that 30% pearl fiber/20% spun silk/50% long-staple cotton adopts compact spinning for spinning to become and props up doublet cord.
Above pearl fiber shirt fabric, total quantity of warps is 21498/2, and Side End Number is 60 * 4, and fabric tissue is/31 twill left to right tissues.
Develop 120 English and prop up the fiber that yarn need fiber is long, intensity is high, fineness is thin, make yarn have certain brute force, therefore raw material employing specification is the pearl fiber of 1.33dtex * 38mm, and specification is the spun silk of 1.18dtex * 38mm, and long-staple cotton adopts 17 "/16 U.S.'s pimas.
Beneficial effect of the present invention: pearl fiber shirt fabric of the present invention, adopt pearl fiber.Pearl fiber is to adopt high-tech means that nano-glass pearl powder and gentle wire protein fiber co-blended spinning are formed, gentle wire protein fiber is the modified milk protein fiber cellulose fiber take plant as raw material, contain amino acid whose smalls pearl powder owing to having added, make fiber have more health, the advantages such as the cellulose fibre light is soft, moisture adsorption and releasing good, dyeing is bright-coloured, fabric fall is good have been kept simultaneously, and have anti-ultraviolet function, be the excellent raw material that substitutes cashmere, improves the wool product flexibility.Therefore the present invention is with the first-selection of pearl fiber as shirt fabric.Silk flock is elongated, gloss is graceful, slim and graceful softness, have good hygroscopicity, good hand feeling, the characteristics such as smooth, can spin high grade cotton yarn, weave various noble dress materials comfortable and easy to wear, spring, summer, autumn and winter, all-ages desirable garment material, the laudatory title of tool " natural fiber queen " is described as " artificial skin ".With spun silk, pearl fiber and long-staple cotton three blending, both improved the characteristic that the spun silk product is wear-resisting, moisture absorption effluxes, increase again close skin, supported the functional of skin, the total content of pearl fiber and spun silk accounts for 50% ratio in order to bring into play largely the functional of two kinds of fibers, and while U.S.'s pima accounts for 50% can make again the certain brute force of yarn assurance be convenient to the follow-up processing of weaving.The good wearability of the existing natural fiber of pearl fiber shirt fabric of the present invention, the excellent appearance characteristic that silk fabrics is smooth, elegant, gloss is gorgeous is arranged again, have more the health nutrient function of functional fiber, cloth cover is bright and clean, and filoplume is few, anti pilling, and has beauty care, moisture absorption is ventilative, uvioresistant, warming softness, the function of antibacterial and deodouring is a very outstanding health environment-friendly fabric.
The present invention provides a kind of preparation method of pearl fiber shirt fabric simultaneously, and it comprises the steps:
A, spinning; The part combed long staple cotton is mixed with spun silk, pearl fiber, in the opening and cleaning step rolling, then carries out drafting after comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, with all the other combed long staple cotton mixed and after pass through again rove, spun yarn, winder, double twisting operation;
B, cheese yarn dyeing; Comprise metal, pre-treatment, dyeing, hot water wash, pickling, soap, hot water wash, cold wash, fixation, softness, go out cylinder, oven dry, tight cylinder step;
Pre-treatment comprises bleaching, and enzyme is processed;
C, weave: comprise warping, gait, sizing, the step of weaving cotton cloth;
D, rear arrangement; Comprise destarch, soft, typing, preshrunk step.
Spun silk belongs to natural protein fibre, and fiber is without bending, and too smooth, and coefficient of friction is little each other, and cohesive force is low, separately the rolling difficulty.Pearl fiber, cotton fiber are all cellulose fibres, and fiber bending is many, and cohesive force is good, and easily rolling, mix three kinds of fibers by a certain percentage, and rolling smoothly is for following process provides condition.
The preparation method of above-mentioned pearl fiber shirt fabric mixes with pearl fiber spun silk before spinning in the 2:3 ratio, add antistatic finish and carry out pretreatment, and the oiling ratio is 6% of composite fibre quality, and sealing was preserved one day.Spun silk and pearl fiber are carried out pre-treatment can further promote the silk flock rolling.
Adopt band to lead the carding machine of cotton apron during comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning.In carding step, because fibre cohesion is poor, for guaranteeing web quality, reduce the damage of fiber, guarantee that slivering is smooth, therefore select tape is led the carding machine of cotton apron.
During rove, rove is wet is quantitatively 3.0g/10m, and flier speed is 900r/min, apron nip spacing block 4.5mm.Rove is very crucial operation, strengthens the twist, and reduction ingot speed adopts positive rear guide strip roller, reduces back area draft, and adjustment bar bucket is arranged and reduced the misdraft of yarn, can guarantee that rove has suitable brute force, elongation and bar is dried uniformly.
Spun yarn adopts compact spinning, quantitative dry weight 0.452g/100m, twist factor 375, wire loop udr16/0, ingot speed 15500rpm.Mostly spinning end breaking is one of Main Problems in spinning process, have a strong impact on particularly weave cotton cloth the carrying out of operation of subsequent handling, the configuration of spinning process Optimization Technology, select suitable grid ring specification, model and cleaning cycle, carry out three of winding unit and work with one heart, select the import wire loop, the cleaning of reinforcement to each draw zone and winding unit, reduce the speed of a motor vehicle, can reduce the generation of fault, effectively reduce the generation of broken end.Spun yarn adopts compact spinning, more effectively reduces Yarn filoplume.Compact spinning is to have increased a fibre deposition district before the ring throstle draw-gear, has substantially eliminated front roller to the spinning twist triangle zone between the twisting point.Fiber strip is after the output of front roller prosopyle, first pass through special-shaped aspiration channel overcoat mesh apron, yarn moves on the mesh apron, contraction and polymerization due to air-flow, air draught groove by special pipe makes strand integrated composite, rotation, progressively transfers cylinder to from flat belt-like, and the termination of fiber is all twisted with the fingers in yarn, therefore resultant yarn is very tight, and yarn appearance is bright and clean, filoplume is few.
The preparation method of above-mentioned pearl fiber shirt fabric, during sizing, slurry adopts PVA and esterification starch to mix slurry, and formula of size is:
| Title | Weight |
| PVA | 25kg |
| PVA-205MB | 15kg |
| Esterification starch/converted starch | 25/25kg |
| Polyacrylic acid size | 20kg |
| Wax disk(-sc) | 3kg |
| Oil emulsion (piece) | 2kg |
The slashing technique parameter:
The rate of sizing: 15 ± 2%
Mixing cirtern constant volume: 700L;
Supply barrel temperature: 98 ℃;
Supply barrel temperature/viscosity: 98 ℃/10 ± 1 seconds;
Slurry groove temperature/viscosity: 〉=90 ℃/9 ± 1 seconds;
Stock tank pH value: 7～8.
The sizing operation is crucial, improves weavability by sizing, makes yarn sheet through sizing at tension force, arrangement, rolling density uniformity, makes good beam of a loom, reach the some wearability, the surface hairiness that increase warp thread paste lie prostrate, the yarn body is bright and clean.The characteristics relatively low according to yarn strength, starching is mainly stretched as main take enhancing and guarantor, select tough and hard wear resistant, intensity high, extend, PVA slurry and modified starch paste that adherence is good mix slurry, the ratio of PVA and esterification starch is transferred near 1:1, can guarantee that like this serous coat has certain pliability and permeability, improved the brute force of warp thread, guaranteed that warp thread has certain percentage elongation, the elastic wear-resisting of warp thread is guaranteed.Stretch as main take coating and guarantor.Clear for guaranteeing opening, reduce broken end, the rate of sizing is controlled between 15 ± 2%.
The present invention had both improved with spun silk, pearl fiber and long-staple cotton three blending the characteristic that the spun silk product is wear-resisting, moisture absorption effluxes, and had increased again close skin, had supported the functional of skin; Adopt the compact spinning technology can effectively reduce the filoplume of yarn, glossiness and the anti-pilling property of raising cloth cover improve product specification, can strengthen yarn strength simultaneously, improve weaving efficiency; The fabric cloth cover that obtains is bright and clean, and gloss as silk is arranged, and filoplume is few, anti pilling, and class is high, and has beauty care, and moisture absorption is ventilative, uvioresistant, warming softness, and the function of antibacterial and deodouring is a outstanding health environment-friendly fabric.
The specific embodiment
One, the technological process of production
Warp thread, weft yarn: pearl 30/ spun silk 20/ long-staple cotton 50CF120
S/ 2
Two, processing parameter and key problem in technology
1, spinning:
Warp thread, weft yarn: pearl 30/ spun silk 20/ long-staple cotton 50CF120S/2
Pima: (blowing)
1. carded sliver dry weight 19.6g/5m, sliver exporting speed 70m/min, the cylinder-cover plate 8*7*7*7*8 that spaces ";
2. pre-and quantitative dry weight 20.3g/5m, 6 of number of doubling;
3. bar and roll up quantitative dry weight 65g/m, number of doubling 24;
4. combing type E62, quantitative dry weight 20.5g/5m, linters rate 15%.
Pearl fiber, spun silk, part combed long staple cotton (blowing):
1. comprehensive Beater Speed 750r/min, comprehensive hired roughneck～dirt rod: advance～go out 8*18mm, cotton rolling quantity 336g/m;
2. carded sliver dry weight 24.5g/5m, sliver exporting speed 60m/min, the cylinder～cover plate 12*10*10*10*12 that spaces ";
3. pre-and quantitative dry weight 19.34g/5m, 8 of number of doubling.
For the characteristics of silk flock, for increasing the spinnability of fiber, improve the cohesive force between fiber, on the one hand silk flock is carried out pre-treatment, suitably spray loose electricity spirit, do not carry out independent rolling simultaneously, and select and cotton and the three-in-one rolling of pearl fiber; In the technological principle of opening and cleaning step with " how comb is few is beaten, receives less more ", reduce each hired roughneck's speed, suitably amplify corresponding spacing; In carding step, because fibre cohesion is poor, for guaranteeing web quality, reduce the damage of fiber, guarantee that slivering is smooth, select tape is led the carding machine of cotton apron, and take " jogging speed, large quantitatively, reclaim more, small tension receiving coil " technological principle, increase spacing between licker-in and feed plate, reduce licker-in, cylinder, doffer's rotating speed, simultaneously the tension draft grasp less than normal in proparea.
Mix also:
1. head and quantitatively dry weight 15g/5m, 3 of number of doubling (2 also+1 long-staple cotton essence bar) in advance;
2. two and quantitative dry weight 13.5g/5m, 8 of number of doubling;
3. three and quantitative dry weight 12g/5m, 6 of number of doubling.
Mixing in doubling step take " suitably space, small tension receiving coil, light quantitatively, jogging speed, many and close " technological principle, underspeed, reduce tension draft, selects suitable drafting unit, what guarantee to drive carries out smoothly, improves the bar solid carbon dioxide of ripe and puts down.
Rove: the rove quantitative 3.0g/10m that wets, flier speed is 900r/min, apron nip spacing block 4.5mm.
Roving Frames is taked the technological principle of " suitably pressurization, the large twist, light quantitative, jogging speed ", strengthen the twist, reduce ingot speed, adjust suitable rolling density, in order to reduce the misdraft of yarn, except adopting positive rear guide strip roller, reduce back area draft, adjust the bar bucket and arrange, guaranteed that the suitable brute force of rove, elongation and uniform bar are dried, for spinning process is laid a good foundation.
Spun yarn:
Quantitative dry weight 0.452g/100m, twist factor 375, wire loop udr16/0, ingot speed 15500rpm.
The compact spinning operation is taked the technological principle of " suitably pressurization, close setting, jogging speed, the large twist ", counter extensioin technique is carried out orthogonal test, the Optimization Technology configuration, select suitable grid ring specification, model and settle accounts the cycle, carry out three of winding unit and work with one heart, select the combination of suitable ring-traveller, to roller particularly front leather roller regularly process, to strengthen especially the cleaning to each draw zone and winding unit, reduce the generation of fault in production process.
Winder:
N:400%; S:140%, 1.4cm; L:35%, 35cm; Driving speed: 600m/min.
Double twisting:
Quantitative dry weight 0.904, twist factor 438, the double twisting twist 140 sth. made by twisting/10cm, ingot speed 7500rpm.
Cylinder and twist with the fingers is taked the technological principle of " low velocity, subject matter insured matter, joint good, be shaped good ", reduces to greatest extent cotton knot, filoplume and the powerful phenomenon that worsens and guarantees the stable of yarn quality.
2, the bleaching of cylinder yarn and dyeing:
Cylinder yarn bleaching process flow process:
Metal-dress yarn-concise-bleach-brighten-hot water wash (80 ℃, and 10min)-cold wash (normal temperature 10min)-acetic acid neutralization (40 ℃, 10min)-soft-go out cylinder-tight cylinder.
Bleaching process: hydrogen peroxide 15g/l, caustic soda 12g/l(regulate pH value 10～11), waterglass 3g/l, calgon 0.5g/l.90～95 ℃ of temperature, the time: 20～30min.
Whitening process: brightening agent VBL1g/l.90～95 ℃ of temperature, the time: 2～3min.
The cheese yarn dyeing technological process:
Metal-(80 ℃ of dress yarn-pre-treatment-dyeing-hot water wash, 10min)-pickling (70 ℃, 10min)-soap (XC-W25g/l, 100 ℃, 20min)-hot water wash (80 ℃, 10min)-cold wash (normal temperature 10min)-fixation-softness-go out cylinder-tight cylinder.
(1) pre-treating technology: NaCO3 12g/l, sodium hydrosulfite 2g/l, scouring agent 1g/l, calgon 0.5g/l.Temperature: 90～95 ℃, the time: 20～30min.
(2) dyeing: dyestuff, leveling agent d Y 2g/l, glauber salt 80g/l, soda ash 20g/l, bath raio 1:10.
Add dyestuff and levelling agent in 35 ℃ of dyeing liquors, add glauber salt after 10min, add 15g/l soda ash after 10min, be warming up to 60 ℃ with the speed of 1 ℃/min, add residue soda ash after dying 20min, check colors after insulation 30min.
(3) fixation: color-fixing agent 4g/l, temperature 50 C, time 20min.
(4) softness: add acetic acid and softening agent during normal temperature, be warming up to 40 ℃ after 5min, draining after insulation processing 20min.
Above-mentioned technique acid base concentration, bleaching concentration and processing time are wanted appropriateness, reduce the injury to pearl fiber and spun silk when guaranteeing to reach the dyeing bleaching effect as far as possible.
3, weave:
(1) warping
Type: Benniger high-speed warping machine;
Total warping radical: 21498/2, wherein Side End Number 60 * 4;
The number of axle: 24 (shallow orchids: 2328 → 776*3; Deep blue: 670 → 670*1; White yarn: 18680 → 925*20 is totally 24 warp beams);
Winding speed: 600m/min;
Rolling density: 0.5g/cm3;
Tension force: segmentation is controlled.
Shallow orchid is the A yarn, and bobbin is coated with edible haematochrome, and not in identification, deep blue is the B yarn, and white yarn is the C yarn, three kinds of independent warpings of yarn, i.e. three axles of A yarn, axle of B yarn, 20 axles of C yarn, totally 24 axles.Press warp thread radical, the length warping of process stipulation during warping.600 m/mins of the speed of a motor vehicle, adopt lower speed of beaming, be to control the tension difference between resultant yarn, with warping creel be divided into, under, forward and backward 5 sections, formation 15th district, respectively to the different tension value of each district's configuration, dwindle the tension difference between warp thread, guarantee that the sheet yarn tension is even, reel evenly, yarn and yarn are arranged evenly, guarantee simultaneously the yarn path clean, smooth, lay the first stone for improving weaving efficiency.
(2) sizing
Type: Benniger high speed warp sizing machine;
Starching form: tandem sizing box;
The rate of sizing: 15 ± 2%;
Regain: 8 ± 2%;
Percentage elongation :≤1%;
Sizing China ink seal length: 44.6m;
Winding speed: 60m/min;
Slurry groove temperature/viscosity (℃/S): 〉=90/9 ± 1;
Stock tank pH value: 7～8.
The formula (unit: kilogram) of sizing mixing:
PVA：25；
PVA-205MB：15；
Esterification starch/converted starch: 25/25;
Polyacrylic acid size: 20;
Wax disk(-sc): 3;
Mixing cirtern constant volume (L): 700;
Supply barrel temperature/viscosity (℃/S): 98/10 ± 1.
The sizing operation is crucial, improves weavability by sizing, makes yarn sheet through sizing at tension force, arrangement, rolling density uniformity, makes good beam of a loom, reach the some wearability, the surface hairiness that increase warp thread paste lie prostrate, the yarn body is bright and clean.Preferred slurry adopts PVA and esterification starch to mix slurry, stretches as main take coating and guarantor.Clear for guaranteeing opening, reduce broken end, the rate of sizing is controlled between 15-16%, and notes controlling and respectively distinguish tension force, accomplishes both to be conducive to starching, has avoided again tension difference excessive and increase elongation; Adopt the process route of " in high, is low ", follow enhancings, protect stretch, wear-resisting, the principle that infiltration and coating are laid equal stress on, press layering preliminary drying, low temperature drying after first high temperature baking is protected in middling speed, protect serous coat, high moisture regain, little elongation, after waxing, the tight coiling, with the infiltration that increases yarn and the coating effect of laying equal stress on, and paste and lie prostrate filoplume, make the yarn fiber adhesiveness of starching good, the good film-forming property of slurries is laid good basis for guaranteeing to weave smoothly.Sizing file leader: (strictly by the technique file leader)
60C+〔24C+1A+24C+1B+(1C1A)*6+1C+1B〕*166+60C+60C+〔24C+1A+24C+1B+(1C1A)*6+1C+1B〕*166+60C+4A+6B。
(3) gait
(4) weaving process technical parameter
(5) arranging process
Finished product lump length: 120m;
Folding length: 1m;
Check Baling Length: 600m.
4, rear arrangement:
Technological process: destarch-softness-typing-preshrunk.
Slurry is converted starch and PVA slurry, and desizing agent uses alpha-amylase 2000L, and normal temperature begins to be warming up to 100 ℃, fully cold wash after hot water wash, then through softness, typing, shrinking processes, the fabric washing shrinkage is controlled in 3%.
Claims (9)
1. pearl fiber shirt fabric is characterized in that: warp thread is with weft yarn 120 English that 30% pearl fiber/20% spun silk/50% long-staple cotton adopts compact spinning for spinning to become and props up doublet cord.
2. pearl fiber shirt fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: described fabric total quantity of warps is 21498/2, and Side End Number is 60 * 4, and fabric tissue is 3/1 twill left to right tissue.
3. pearl fiber shirt fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that: the pearl fiber specification is 1.33dtex * 38mm, and the spun silk specification is 1.18dtex * 38mm, and long-staple cotton adopts 17 "/16 U.S.'s pimas.
4. the preparation method of claim 1,2 or 3 described pearl fiber shirt fabrics, it is characterized in that: it comprises the steps:
A, spinning; The part combed long staple cotton is mixed with spun silk, pearl fiber, in the opening and cleaning step rolling, then carries out drafting after comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, with all the other combed long staple cotton mixed and after pass through again rove, spun yarn, winder, double twisting operation;
B, cheese yarn dyeing; Comprise metal, pre-treatment, dyeing, hot water wash, pickling, soap, hot water wash, cold wash, fixation, softness, go out cylinder, oven dry, tight cylinder step;
Pre-treatment comprises bleaching, and enzyme is processed;
C, weave: comprise warping, gait, sizing, the step of weaving cotton cloth;
D, rear arrangement; Comprise destarch, soft, typing, preshrunk step.
5. the preparation method of pearl fiber shirt fabric as claimed in claim 4, it is characterized in that: before spinning, spun silk is mixed in the 2:3 ratio with pearl fiber, add antistatic finish and carry out pretreatment, the oiling ratio is 6% of composite fibre quality, sealing was preserved one day.
6. the preparation method of pearl fiber shirt fabric as claimed in claim 4, is characterized in that: adopt band to lead the carding machine of cotton apron during comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning.
7. the preparation method of pearl fiber shirt fabric as claimed in claim 4 is characterized in that: during rove, rove is wet is quantitatively 3.0g/10m, and flier speed is 900r/min, apron nip spacing block 4.5mm.
8. the preparation method of pearl fiber shirt fabric as claimed in claim 5, is characterized in that: spun yarn employing compact spinning, quantitative dry weight 0.452g/100m, twist factor 375, wire loop udr16/0, ingot speed 15500rpm.
9. the preparation method of pearl fiber shirt fabric as claimed in claim 3 is characterized in that: during sizing, slurry adopts PVA and esterification starch to mix slurry, and formula of size is:
The slashing technique parameter:
The rate of sizing: 15 ± 2%
Mixing cirtern constant volume: 700L;
Supply barrel temperature: 98 ℃;
Supply barrel temperature/viscosity: 98 ℃/10 ± 1 seconds;
Slurry groove temperature/viscosity: 〉=90 ℃/9 ± 1 seconds;
Stock tank pH value: 7～8.
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