CN102560930B - Production method of wool/Coolmax/mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended fabric - Google Patents

Production method of wool/Coolmax/mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102560930B
CN102560930B CN 201210049227 CN201210049227A CN102560930B CN 102560930 B CN102560930 B CN 102560930B CN 201210049227 CN201210049227 CN 201210049227 CN 201210049227 A CN201210049227 A CN 201210049227A CN 102560930 B CN102560930 B CN 102560930B
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China
Prior art keywords
coolmax
dyeing
mulberry silk
wool
temperature
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CN 201210049227
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Chinese (zh)
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CN102560930A (en
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张建刚
胡蓉
庞志红
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江苏华西村精毛纺织有限公司
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Publication of CN102560930A publication Critical patent/CN102560930A/en
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Abstract

The invention relates to a production method of a wool/Coolmax/mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended fabric, which is characterized in that the blended fabric is made of 60% of Australasian wool, 20% of Coolmax fibers, 15% of polyester fibers, and 5% of mulberry silk by dyeing, recombing, spinning, weaving and dyeing and finishing. The fabric has good color fastness, is non-fading and is breathable.

Description

The manufacture method of wool/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of underwear fabric, relate in particular to the manufacture method of a kind of wool/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric, belong to the new textile technical field.
Background technology
The fiber that conventional senior suiting great majority are selected is all take wool and terylene as main, wherein wool warming, refuse water, terylene is powerful high but gas permeability is poor, is unsuitable for the dress in summer.Now people have had again higher demand to the comfortableness aspect of garment material, wears not only comfortablely, and activity is freely, and is elegant in appearance, winter warming, and also will can reach moisture absorbing and sweat releasing summer, the fabric that changes with the space temperature environment change.The hygroscopic fibre Coolmax fiber that du pont company provides.The characteristics of Coolmax fiber are the hollow polyester fibers, it is the special-shaped polyester fiber with four grooves, after utilizing these groove-shaped fiber spun yarns and weaving, can form more capillary channel between fiber and fiber, bring into play better core sucting action (capillary effect) and produce moisture absorption sweat discharging functions.But the fibre structure of Coolmax is because be I shape and cross composition, the dyestuff that molecule is large enter do not adhere to fully after fiber firm, in later process, can be because be subject to the impact of extraneous friction, washing and temperature (high temperature), make the part dyestuff break away from fiber, or at high temperature break away from fiber in the mode that distils, cause changes of shade and fugitive color phenomenon.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to overcome above-mentioned deficiency, provide a kind of COLOR FASTNESS good, colour-fast, have the manufacture method of the wool of moisture absorption sweat discharging functions/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric.
The object of the present invention is achieved like this:
The manufacture method of a kind of wool/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric, described blended yarn woven fabric manufacture method is take Australia's hair 60%, Coolmax fiber 20%, polyester fiber 15% and mulberry silk 5% as raw material, dyes recombing, spins, weaves with the dyeing and finishing technology step and make through bar;
Described is dyed in recombing technique, respectively Australia's hair, Coolmax fiber, polyester fiber and mulberry silk are dyeed during dyeing, wherein:
Wool fibre adopts 90 ℃ of dyeing of low temperature;
During mulberry silk fiber adopts, Resist Reactive Dyes is in 60 ℃ of dyeing, and controlling the pH value is 8-9, time 60min;
The Coolmax stock-dye adopts the high temperature modification DISPERSE DYES to add the diammonium hydrogen phosphate that accounts for fabric 3%-6% mass percent in the time of 40 ℃-50 ℃, regulate dyeing acid basicity and remain on neutrality, 130 ℃ of temperature, time 60min, pressure 1.96Mpa, dyeing washes away loose colour and oligomer with the caustic soda sodium hydrosulfite after finishing;
Described dyeing and finishing technology flow process is: green compact mending → singly fall → singly boil → braying → two boils → dries → singe → singly fall → dry by the fire → softness → middle inspection → ripe repairing → and brush and cut → dewing → scald light → tank steaming → finished product, wherein: the braying time is that 25-35 divides, and temperature is 45-55 ℃;
Singly boil with double boiling procedure and all adopt the low temperature cooking method, temperature is 45 ℃-75 ℃, number of times 4-6 time;
It is 100-115 ℃ that tank steams temperature.
In described dyeing and finishing technology, add hydrophilic finishing agent in described baking operation.
In described dyeing and finishing technology, before described baking operation, the fabric that will contain the COOLMAX fiber cleans with the water of 25 ℃-45 ℃.
Described spinning technological process is: silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove one → rove two → spun yarn → automatic winding → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; Control relative humidity 70%-75%, temperature 26-30 ℃ in described spinning process process.
95 ℃ of described yarn steaming temperature, time 60min.
Described warp thread adopts 94/2, and weft yarn adopts 52/1.
Compared with prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects as follows:
The present invention solves coolmax fabric changes of shade fluctuating, the problem of dyefastness fugitive color.To add diammonium hydrogen phosphate when woolen dyed under normal circumstances, and do not add when dyeing terylene, add diammonium hydrogen phosphate in the present invention when the Coolmax stock-dye, reach the effect of demineralized water, simultaneously by regulating dyeing acid basicity, buffering is because the variation of pH value causes dyefastness easily to rise and fall, and coloured light changes.
The structure of COOLMAX fiber selects dye molecule little, the high temperature modification disperse dyeing that dyefastness is good by I shape and cross the composition.From the fibrous molecular structure analysis, the dyeing course of terylene (comprising modified dacron COOLMAX) is a physical process, rather than chemical process.80 ℃-88 ℃ of the vitrification points of fiber are utilized this characteristics, and fiber at high temperature begins expanded, and ultra-fine dyestuff enters in fiber, reaches the dyeing purpose.The fibre structure of COOLMAX is because be I shape and cross composition, the dyestuff that molecule is large enter do not adhere to fully after fiber firm, in later process, can be because be subject to extraneous friction, washing, and the impact of temperature (high temperature) make the part dyestuff break away from fiber, or at high temperature break away from fiber in the mode that distils, cause changes of shade and fugitive color phenomenon.Adopt the high temperature modification dyestuff, and add a certain amount of diammonium hydrogen phosphate to solve dyestuff to adhere to insecure and problem fugitive color.Make up simultaneously COOLMAX fiber in the colorant match process more responsive and produce the changes of shade of chromatic series to coloured light.
Coarse in order to prevent the product face, feel is stiff, postfinishing process is adjusted as follows:
1. grey cloth is not singed, and strengthens the cropping operation, the requirement that the face that reaches is bright and clean;
2. according to the characteristic of Coolmax fiber, short time, low temperature braying technique are adopted in braying;
3. the low temperature cooking method is adopted in crabbing;
4. increase the clear water matting before baking, remove impurity, and then the use hydrophilic finishing agent, purpose is three kinds, wool, mulberry silk and polyester fiber to be refused water cellulose carry out hydrophilic treatment, reaches the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing effect of product.
5. to steam temperature low for tank, reduces the damage of wool fibre, Coolmax fiber and mulberry silk fiber, prevents that the dyestuff that adheres in COOLMAX fiber (modified fibre) from due to the temperature variation that distils, affecting product coloured light.
The fabric that the present invention makes takes full advantage of wool fibre feltability, warmth retention property preferably, and the humidity absorption and release of Coolmax fiber, the soft and gloss of mulberry silk fiber, polyester fiber are powerful preferably.Embody the design style of fabric, warp thread adopts 94/2, and weft yarn adopts 52/1, embodies the top grade of product.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1:
Described blended yarn woven fabric is raw material by Australia's hair 60%, Coolmax fiber 20%, polyester fiber 15% and mulberry silk 5%, dyes recombing, spins, weaves with dyeing and finishing and make through bar;
One, described technological process of dying recombing is as follows: the pinecone → dyeing → after backwashing → B411(silver mixing one time) → B412(silver mixing two times) → B303(grilling one time) → B304(grilling two times) → B311(combing) → B305(recombing one) → B305(recombing two) → B306(recombing three), respectively Australia's hair, Coolmax fiber, polyester fiber and mulberry silk are dyeed during dyeing, wherein:
Wool fibre adopts 90 ℃ of dyeing of low temperature, to increase the cohesive force of fiber, improves fiber strength, reduces wool damage.
Mulberry silk fiber adopts Japanese import REACTIVE DYES (middle warm type) (as the She Malong dyestuff of Japanese import) to adopt 60 ℃ of dyeing, and controlling the pH value is 8-9, time 60min; Reach bright-colored, dyefastness is good, and fiber is felt effect also not.
Coolmax stock-dye employing High Temperature Disperse dyestuff adds 3%-6% diammonium hydrogen phosphate in the time of 40 ℃-50 ℃, regulate dyeing acid basicity and remain on pH value 7 left and right, buffering is because the variation of pH value causes dyefastness easily to rise and fall, coloured light changes, 130 ℃ of temperature, time 60min, pressure 1.96Mpa, dyeing washes away loose colour and oligomer with the caustic soda sodium hydrosulfite after finishing; In addition, the DISPERSE DYES high-temperature and high pressure dyeing process is adopted in the Coolmax stock-dye, adds diammonium hydrogen phosphate, plays the effect of demineralized water in dyeing, and when guaranteeing to dye, change color rises and falls, and reaches the dyeing equilibrium effect.
Carry out recombing after dyeing, the quality of recombed top is to guarantee to spin to have spun the prerequisite of yarn.Because the Coolmax fibre cohesion is poor, select Henkel Corp. and crude oil from silver mixing, refuel mode with spraying.Adopt front twice silver mixing of combing, guarantee that wool and other three kinds of fibers mix.The recombing 26mm that will space strengthens combing; Strengthen cleaned at regular intervals work, then after combing, three grilling back zone, road tension drafts suitably reduce, and adjust between 7.5 times-8.4 times, make heavy irregular being controlled in 1.5% of lower machine wool top.
Two, the technological process of spinning process is: the B412(silver mixing) → B423(scalp acupuncture) → B432(two pins) → B442(three pins) → B452(four pins) → FB441(rove one) → FB441(rove two) → spun yarn → automatic winding → doubling (oiling) → double twisting → yarn steaming;
Because four kinds of fibre properties differ greatly, particularly Coolmax fiber humidity absorption and release is fast, the easy overdrying of yarn, be wound around roller for producing in preventing from producing, around the roller phenomenon, bring yarn evenness quality influence and yarn card nailing neps, workshop moisture temperature is controlled relative humidity 70%-75% in production, temperature 26-30 ℃.
Improve the rove evenness quality, rove adopts 2 road dandy roving techniques, feeds 8 of quantitative silver mixings, and 7 of scalp acupunctures are adjusted between all the other operation 3-2 roots.Each operation is spaced and is adjusted between 25mm-50mm, and 19.5 times of the drafting multiples that spun yarn is selected are avoided misdraft, does to keep Yarn, and the speed of a motor vehicle 8000 turns, and selects the 31# steel traveler.Select the darker apron of the smooth groove of apron, reduce the control at apron rear portion, prevent that drafting force is excessive and when causing drawing-off yarn skid, produce elephant skin yarn and hardhead.95 ℃ of yarn steaming temperature, time 60min, and require to cover clean cloth on yarn, prevent the water droplet wool yarn, cause the yarn adhesion.Yarn after yarn steaming at normal temperatures, natural air drying was placed 24 hours, when guaranteeing after yarn steaming that the yarn doubling of 1 meter long naturally droops, automatic number of twists is no more than 10/meter.
Three, the weaving process flow process is: warping → gaiting, plug in reed, inserted sheet → arrow shaft are weaved
Carry out in order to make to weave smoothly, during warping, warp tension is 18-20 gram/root, and speed is 320 m/mins; Beaming tension force is 2000g/m, and speed is 60 m/mins, reduces the beam of a loom end breakage rate.
The loom speed of a motor vehicle is controlled 330 rev/mins, and tension force is controlled at 150-160kg, and weft tension suitably increases, back rest position 0, and warp stop frame-2, weaving efficiency is more than 89%.
Four, the dyeing and finishing technology flow process is: green compact mending → singly fall → singly boil → braying → two boils → dries → singe → singly fall → dry (hydrophilic finishing agent) → softness → middle inspection → ripe repairing → and brush and cut → dewing → scald light → KD tank steaming → finished product
Wash the postfinishing process of product according to hair, coarse in order to prevent the product face, feel is stiff, postfinishing process is adjusted as follows:
Grey cloth is not singed, and strengthens the cropping operation, the requirement that the face that reaches is bright and clean;
According to the characteristic of Coolmax fiber, short time, low temperature braying technique are adopted in braying, and the braying time is 35 minutes, and temperature is 45 ℃;
The low temperature cooking method is adopted in crabbing (singly boil, two boiling), and temperature is 45 ℃, number of times 6 times;
Increase the clear water matting before baking, the fabric that will contain the COOLMAX fiber cleans with the water of 25 ℃-45 ℃, and the use hydrophilic finishing agent, purpose is three kinds, wool, mulberry silk and polyester fiber to be refused water cellulose carry out clear water and process, and reaches the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing effect of product.
It is 115 ℃ that tank steams temperature, reduces the damage of wool fibre, Coolmax fiber and mulberry silk fiber.
Fabric specification:
Warp thread yarn count: 94/2 Australia's hair 60%; Coolmax fiber 20%; Polyester fiber 15%; Mulberry silk 5%
Weft yarn yarn count: 52/1 Australia's hair 60%; Coolmax fiber 20%; Polyester fiber 15%; Mulberry silk 5%
Finished product warp/filling density: 324*285 root/10cm
Weight per square meter: 125g/m 2
Finished door width: 154-2cm.
Embodiment 2:
The difference of the present embodiment and embodiment 1 is:
In dyeing and finishing technology, the braying time is 25 minutes, and temperature is 55 ℃; The low temperature cooking method is adopted in crabbing (singly boil, two boiling), and temperature is 75 ℃, number of times 4 times; It is 100 ℃ that tank steams temperature.
Embodiment 3:
The difference of the present embodiment and embodiment 1 is:
In dyeing and finishing technology, the braying time is 30 minutes, and temperature is 50 ℃; The low temperature cooking method is adopted in crabbing (singly boil, two boiling), and temperature is 70 ℃, number of times 5 times; It is 110 ℃ that tank steams temperature.
With the fabric that the present invention makes, cut the square sheet of 50 * 50mm, drip clear water to its surface with dropper, all scatter in 5s, and conventional fabric can form the globule on its surface, is difficult to scatter, and proves that fabric of the present invention has fabulous moisture absorbing and sweat releasing effect.
The test of COLOR FASTNESS result:
1, Washing: standard determination method can see the GB5713-85 standard for details.
2, soaping fastness: standard determination method can see the GB3921-83 method standard for details.
3, dried, fastness to wet rubbing: the mensuration colour fastness to rubbing of GB3920-83 method, relatively the raising degree of fastness before and after fixation.
4, perspiration fastness: standard method of test can see the GB3922-83 method standard for details.
The performance test results summary sheet:
? Embodiment 1 Embodiment 2 Embodiment 3 Contrast (common thread water absorben perspiring shell fabric)
Washing The 4-5 level The 4-5 level The 4-5 level 3 grades
Soaping fastness The 4-5 level 4 grades 4 grades The 2-3 level
Dry fastness 4 grades 3 grades 4 grades The 2-3 level
Fastness to wet rubbing 3 grades 3 grades 3 grades The 2-3 level
Perspiration fastness 4 grades 4 grades 4 grades 2 grades

Claims (6)

1. the manufacture method of wool/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric, it is characterized in that: described blended yarn woven fabric manufacture method is take Australia's hair 60%, Coolmax fiber 20%, polyester fiber 15% and mulberry silk 5% as raw material, dyes recombing, spins, weaves with the dyeing and finishing technology step and make through bar;
Described is dyed in recombing technique, respectively Australia's hair, Coolmax fiber, polyester fiber and mulberry silk are dyeed during dyeing, wherein:
Wool fibre adopts 90 ℃ of dyeing of low temperature;
During mulberry silk fiber adopts, Resist Reactive Dyes is in 60 ℃ of dyeing, and controlling the pH value is 8-9, time 60min;
The Coolmax stock-dye adopts the high temperature modification DISPERSE DYES to add the diammonium hydrogen phosphate that accounts for fabric 3%-6% mass percent in the time of 40 ℃-50 ℃, regulate dyeing acid basicity and remain on neutrality, 130 ℃ of temperature, time 60min, pressure 1.96Mpa, dyeing washes away loose colour and oligomer with the caustic soda sodium hydrosulfite after finishing;
Described dyeing and finishing technology flow process is: green compact mending → singly fall → singly boil → braying → two boils → dries → singe → singly fall → dry by the fire → softness → middle inspection → ripe repairing → and brush and cut → dewing → scald light → tank steaming → finished product, wherein: the braying time is that 25-35 divides, and temperature is 45-55 ℃;
Singly boil with double boiling procedure and all adopt the low temperature cooking method, temperature is 45 ℃-75 ℃, number of times 4-6 time;
It is 100-115 ℃ that tank steams temperature.
2. the manufacture method of a kind of wool according to claim 1/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric, is characterized in that: in described dyeing and finishing technology, add hydrophilic finishing agent in described baking operation.
3. the manufacture method of a kind of wool according to claim 1/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric, it is characterized in that: in described dyeing and finishing technology, before described baking operation, the fabric that will contain the Coolmax fiber cleans with the water of 25 ℃-45 ℃.
4. the manufacture method of a kind of wool according to claim 1/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric, it is characterized in that: described spinning technological process is: silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove one → rove two → spun yarn → automatic winding → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; Control relative humidity 70%-75%, temperature 26-30 ℃ in described spinning process process.
5. the manufacture method of a kind of wool according to claim 4/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric, is characterized in that: 95 ℃ of described yarn steaming temperature, time 60min.
6. the manufacture method of a kind of wool according to claim 1/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric, is characterized in that: warp thread employing 94/2, weft yarn employing 52/1.
CN 201210049227 2012-02-29 2012-02-29 Production method of wool/Coolmax/mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended fabric CN102560930B (en)

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