CN101130912B - Machine-washable pure wool shirt fabric and processing method thereof - Google Patents
Machine-washable pure wool shirt fabric and processing method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN101130912B CN101130912B CN2006100685536A CN200610068553A CN101130912B CN 101130912 B CN101130912 B CN 101130912B CN 2006100685536 A CN2006100685536 A CN 2006100685536A CN 200610068553 A CN200610068553 A CN 200610068553A CN 101130912 B CN101130912 B CN 101130912B
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a machine-washable pure wool shirting face fabric and processing method thereof. It is characterized by that it adopts Australian merino wool whose average fiber fineness is 18.5 plus or minus 0.3 micron and average staple length is greater than 85mm and makes said Australian merino wool undergo the traditional processes of water-washing, wool carding, recombing, rubbing and drawing, spinning, single yarn weaving and physically finishing so as to obtain the invented product. The processing method has the advantages of no chemical auxiliaries, no pollution to enviroment, low processing cost; the relaxation retraction size, weft area shrinkage is less than or equal to +/--2%(TM31-1X7A), felting warp and weft shrinkage is less than or equal to +/--3(TM31-5X5A), area shrinkage is less than or equal to +/-5.9%, the face fabric can be washed by domestic washing machine, the shrinkage resistance is strong, the size is stable, and the face fabric accords with International Wool Secretariat TWC TM31 standard.
Description
One, technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of wool worsted face fabric, especially a kind of process is not used chemical assistant used in the conventional processing technology, and this lining is used machine-washable pure wool shirt fabric and processing method thereof that washing machine washing post-shrinkage ratio can be controlled at commercial acceptable requirement.
Two, technical background
Wool worsted fabric occupies the one seat in high-grade formal dress lining market for a long time, but because wool fibre has the characteristics of scale package structure, scale under the effect of bi-directional friction motion, especially moist, high temperature and outside under the force conditions, very easily produce the felting phenomenon.This has limited to a certain extent when woolen clothes wear and can not wash with water easily, has restricted the market of worsted fabric to a certain extent.
In order to improve the anti-felting ability of pure woolen fabric, present way mainly can be divided into two kinds of decrement method and dosage methods.The method that the decrement method is traditional is that wool is shelled the squama chloridized, and this method has been destroyed the natural characteristic of wool, simultaneously serious contaminated environment; The dosage method is actually a kind of face coat and handles, though be better than the decrement method aspect environmental protection, has contained the natural characteristic of wool equally, and the cost that adds auxiliary agent simultaneously is higher.
Three, summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is provides a kind of Machine Washable wool shirt fabric and processing method at the deficiencies in the prior art, and this lining can wash with washing machine, and anti-felting ability is strong; This processing method adopts pure physical property finishing technique technology, and the lining of producing can reach the TWC TM31 of International Wool Secretariat standard-required.
Technical scheme of the present invention is: a kind of machine-washable pure wool shirt fabric, it is characterized by and adopting fibre fineness is 18.5 ± 0.3 μ m, staple length〉Australian beautiful slave's wool of 85mm, through traditional handicraft, adopt single yarn weaving, pure physical property finishing technique to be processed into.
A kind of processing method of machine-washable pure wool shirt fabric, comprise the steps: material choice, washing, carding, recombing, spinning, finalize the design, weave grey cloth, wet whole, do whole, multiple decatizing typing, finished product, it is characterized in that in carding adding 0.5% Selbana2001A, in grilling and combing process, add 0.5% Selbana2001A and the AL antistatic additive of 0.5-0.1%.
Wherein, spinning process is to carry out spun yarn processing on the fine spining machine that the Mark-1 roller annex that New Zealand CANESIS company provides is housed.
Setting process is the two circulating vacuum twist decatize typings within 100 ℃.
The beaming process after warping is finished in the grey cloth technology of weaving adds the cold slurry amount of 6-7%, and yarn is from applicator roller even speed process, and the pure wool single-warp single-abb on loom is weaved and made bad cloth.
Piece dyeing technology is to take short time, low temperature, repeatedly counts the dyeing of mode piece dyeing, and grey cloth also will be through dyeing after wet whole the processing; Lining overfeeding length is about 6% in the stoving process, and stretched width is about 2 centimeters, uses the curling lining of crimping machine of active type feeding; What multiple decatizing setting process adopted is, after the cylinder decatizing of pressurizeed decatizing in 6 minutes 120 ℃ of following decatizes, taking to face down again, to carry out jar and steamed 3 minutes after 2 minutes at forevacuum.
The advantage that the present invention compared with prior art has is: (1), available washing machine wash, and anti-felting ability Hauteur length and less dispersing strong, that have than length reach undercoat coefficient; (2), processing method adopts pure physical property finishing technique technology not need any chemical assistant, environmentally safe, processing cost is low; (3) relaxation shrinkage behind steam ironing footpath, broadwise and area contractions≤± 2% (TM31-1X7A), felting shrink radially, broadwise≤± 3 (TM31-5X5A), area contraction≤± 5.9%.
Four, the specific embodiment
A kind of machine-washable pure wool shirt fabric, adopting fibre fineness is 18.5 ± 0.3 μ m, staple length〉85mm, scopular intensity〉Australian beautiful slave's wool of 40N/Ktex, through traditional handicraft, adopt single yarn weaving, pure physical property finishing technique to be processed into.
A kind of processing method of machine-washable pure wool shirt fabric, comprise the steps: material choice, washing, carding, recombing, spinning, typing, weave grey cloth, wet whole, do whole, multiple decatizing typing, finished product, for guaranteeing to obtain long Hauteur length, also to control the discrete and short fiber index of Hauteur length simultaneously to greatest extent, material choice average fiber fineness 18.5 ± 0.3 μ m, average staple length〉85mm, average scopular intensity〉beautiful slave's wool of 40N/Ktex, after traditional washing processing, use conventional method that scoured wool is carried out carding, and then, the wool top that obtains is carried out recombing according to the common process of ramuscule wool; Technological process is: the raw wool → scouring of wool → carding → three road preparing → combing → multiple preparing → recombing in comb → three roads, twice end → twice end pin.
In to ramuscule beautiful slave's wool carding and system bar process, the spinning assistant and the antistatic additive that add standard dose, the Selbana2001A of adding 0.5% in the carding, add 0.5% Selbana2001A and the AL antistatic additive of 0.5-0.1% in grilling and the combing process, average Hauteur length is greater than 72mm, CVH is less than 45%, length less than 35mm short fiber content less than 13.5%.Behind the recombed top process rubbing rove, obtain the rove of following index: coarse yarn density 450tex, UsterCV%＜5.2%, 5/meter of afterturn degree.The confidential index of asking is Hmm under the pin of recombing end〉72mm, CVH＜42%, the short fibre content of＜35mm%＜10%.
On the fine spining machine that the Mark-1 roller annex that New Zealand CANESIS company provides is housed, carry out spun yarn processing, the technical indicator of yarn reaches through/weft yarn props up 50/1/55/1, and the twist 850 is twisted with the fingers to all being that S twists with the fingers, n index warp/latitude respectively is 58/53, and a index warp/latitude respectively is 120/115.The spun yarn quality index reaches respectively: CV%16.2%, Thin (50%) 150/Km, Thick (+50%) 40/Km, Neps (+200%) 15/Km.
By twist factor optimization is selected, obtaining intensity is 6.82CN/tex, the high-quality wool yarn that elongation 13% and warp yarn abrasion resistance average out to are 4818.4 times.Yarn requires within 100 ℃ through two circulating vacuum twist decatizes typings according to the yarn steaming of spinning pure wool yarn afterwards,, satisfies essence fully and knits and use the yarn requirement in 10 through the every meter number of twists of yarn after the setting.Adopt the warp thread auxiliary agent that yarn is carried out cold starching, the beaming process after warping is finished adds the cold slurry amount of 6-7%, and yarn is handled thereby finish cold starching from applicator roller even speed process, helps yarn weaving smooth; The speed of weaving cotton cloth is generally 360rpm, and the warp thread radical of every dent adopts 2 as far as possible, during single yarn weaving according to through close 28/cm, 27/cm of filling density selects reed for use No. 140, every dent 2 one threads, fabric tissue is a plain weave structure, and minimum 170cm of fabric width or suitable shirt fabric width carry out.Weaving process flow process: warping → beaming → wear palm fibre → mistake reed → go up axle → weave and produce bad cloth.
Carry out back arrangement processing by following operation again: each singes repairing → braying → oven dry → positive and negative for one time → braying → crabbing → squezzing → piece dyeing → oven dry → bristle → cropping → dewing → multiple decatizing typing, produces finished product.
Wherein, piece dyeing dyeing is taked in dyeing and finishing processing, and grey cloth will be through wet whole the processing before the dyeing.
Take short time, low temperature, repeatedly count modes, make lining that the sufficient stress restore cycle be arranged, handle, make the shirt fabric can Machine Washable and dimensionally stable in the process of taking by high temperature and normal temperature typing in the decatizing process and suitable technologies such as relaxation processes.
The crabbing stage purses up deciding factor to whether rising after the lining arrangement, so the effect of crabbing must be abundant.Want suitable control lining overfeeding in the oven dry stentering, overfeeding length is about 6%, and stretched width is about 2 centimeters, uses the curling lining of crimping machine of active type feeding, should avoid any stretching action in all production processes.
What multiple decatizing setting process adopted is, after the cylinder decatizing of pressurizeed decatizing in 6 minutes 120 ℃ of following decatizes, taking to face down again, to carry out jar and steamed 3 minutes after 2 minutes at forevacuum, and last decatizing should take lax formula under minimum tension, near open type decatizing.
By the processing of above-mentioned technology, the lining that makes through New Zealand's Canesis NetworkLimited testing result is: the relaxation shrinkage behind the steam ironing radially 1.5%, and broadwise 0.6%, area shrinks-1.4%; Felting behind the steam ironing is shunk radially-2.0%, broadwise 0.5%, and area shrinks-1.4%.Finished product meets the TWC TM31 of International Wool Secretariat standard-required.
Claims (1)
1. the processing method of a machine-washable pure wool shirt fabric, comprise the steps: material choice, washing, carding, recombing, spinning, finalize the design, weave grey cloth, wet whole, do whole, multiple decatizing typing, finished product, the Selbana2001A of adding 0.5% in carding, in grilling and combing process, add 0.5% Selbana2001A and the AL antistatic additive of 0.5-1.0%, it is characterized in that piece dyeing technology is to take short time, low temperature after grey cloth is through wet whole the processing, repeatedly counts the dyeing of mode piece dyeing; Lining overfeeding length is about 6% in the stoving process, and stretched width is about 2 centimeters, uses the curling lining of crimping machine of active type feeding; What multiple decatizing setting process adopted is, after the cylinder decatizing of pressurizeed decatizing in 6 minutes 120 ℃ of following decatizes, taking to face down again, to carry out jar and steamed 3 minutes after 2 minutes at forevacuum.
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| CN2006100685536A CN101130912B (en) | 2006-08-24 | 2006-08-24 | Machine-washable pure wool shirt fabric and processing method thereof |
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| CN2006100685536A CN101130912B (en) | 2006-08-24 | 2006-08-24 | Machine-washable pure wool shirt fabric and processing method thereof |
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| CN101130912A CN101130912A (en) | 2008-02-27 |
| CN101130912B true CN101130912B (en) | 2011-07-13 |
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Families Citing this family (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102230264B (en) * | 2011-06-02 | 2012-12-05 | 罗莱家纺股份有限公司 | Processing method of water washable wool fabric |
| CN102618993B (en) * | 2012-04-09 | 2013-06-19 | 张家港市华鹿毛纺有限公司 | Method for preparing cashmere fabric |
| CN102965796B (en) * | 2012-12-10 | 2014-07-30 | 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 | Production method of wool spun flame retardant fabric |
| CN103526401B (en) * | 2013-10-18 | 2015-01-14 | 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 | Tasmania wool machine washable fabric and production method thereof |
| CN103726162B (en) * | 2014-01-06 | 2015-01-07 | 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 | All-wool high count velour selvage |
| CN104404763B (en) * | 2014-12-04 | 2016-10-12 | 东华大学 | A kind of preparation method of the wool fabric of antistatic, felt proofing and good dyeability |
| CN106108188A (en) * | 2016-08-05 | 2016-11-16 | 江阴市天艺礼品有限公司 | A kind of pearl embroidery shirt fabric with antibiotic antistatic function |
| CN107268141A (en) * | 2017-06-30 | 2017-10-20 | 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 | A kind of spinning three layers of scarf and its processing method |
| CN109338578A (en) * | 2018-11-02 | 2019-02-15 | 嘉兴港恒针织有限公司 | Ultra-fine soft close wool fabric and its processing technology |
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| CN1396334A (en) * | 2001-07-12 | 2003-02-12 | 上海裕丰毛纺织服饰有限公司 | Technology for finishing fabric of spun wool yarns or wool-rich fabric in order to mechanically washing it and preventing shrinkage |
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Effective date of registration: 20080926 Address after: Nanshan Industrial Park, Longkou City, Shandong Applicant after: SHANDONG NANSHAN FABRIC AND GARMENT Co.,Ltd. Address before: Science and technology development center of Nanshan Industry Park, Dongjiang Town, Shandong, Longkou City Applicant before: SHANDONG NANSHAN INDUSTRY Co.,Ltd. |
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Address after: 265706 Nanshan Industrial Park, Dongjiang Town, Longkou City, Yantai City, Shandong Province Patentee after: SHANDONG NANSHAN ZHISHANG TECHNOLOGY Co.,Ltd. Address before: 265706 Nanshan Industrial Park, Shandong, Longkou City Patentee before: SHANDONG NANSHAN FABRIC AND GARMENT Co.,Ltd. |