CN102560930A - Production method of wool/Coolmax/mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended fabric - Google Patents

Production method of wool/Coolmax/mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102560930A
CN102560930A CN2012100492276A CN201210049227A CN102560930A CN 102560930 A CN102560930 A CN 102560930A CN 2012100492276 A CN2012100492276 A CN 2012100492276A CN 201210049227 A CN201210049227 A CN 201210049227A CN 102560930 A CN102560930 A CN 102560930A
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coolmax
dyeing
mulberry silk
wool
temperature
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CN2012100492276A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN102560930B (en
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张建刚
胡蓉
庞志红
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江苏华西村精毛纺织有限公司
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Abstract

The invention relates to a production method of a wool/Coolmax/mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended fabric, which is characterized in that the blended fabric is made of 60% of Australasian wool, 20% of Coolmax fibers, 15% of polyester fibers, and 5% of mulberry silk by dyeing, recombing, spinning, weaving and dyeing and finishing. The fabric has good color fastness, is non-fading and is breathable.

Description

The manufacturing approach of wool/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of underwear fabric, relate in particular to the manufacturing approach of a kind of wool/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric, belong to the new textile technical field.
Background technology
The fiber that conventional senior suiting great majority are selected for use all is to be main with wool and terylene, wherein wool warming, refuse water, the powerful height of terylene but gas permeability is poor is inappropriate for wearing summer.Now people have had higher demand again to the comfortableness aspect of garment material, wears not only comfortablely, and activity freely, and is elegant in appearance, and winter is warming, and also will can reach moisture absorbing and sweat releasing summer, the lining that changes with the space temperature environment change.The hygroscopic fibre Coolmax fiber that du pont company provides.The characteristics of Coolmax fiber are the hollow polyester fibers; It is the special-shaped polyester fiber with four grooves; After utilizing these groove-shaped fiber spun yarns and weaving; Can form more capillary channel between fiber and the fiber, bring into play core sucting action (capillary effect) better and produce moisture absorption sweat discharging functions.But the fibre structure of Coolmax is because be I shape and cross composition; The big dyestuff of molecule get into do not adhere to fully behind the fiber firm; In later process, can make the part dyestuff break away from fiber because receive the influence of extraneous friction, washing and temperature (high temperature); Or at high temperature break away from fiber with the mode that distils, cause changes of shade and fugitive color phenomenon.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to overcome above-mentioned deficiency, provide a kind of COLOR FASTNESS good, colour-fast, have the manufacturing approach of the wool/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric of moisture absorption sweat discharging functions.
The objective of the invention is to realize like this:
The manufacturing approach of a kind of wool/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric; Said blended yarn woven fabric manufacturing approach is to be raw material with Australia's hair 60%, Coolmax fiber 20%, polyester fiber 15% and mulberry silk 5%, dyes recombing, spins, weaves with the dyeing and finishing technology step and process through bar;
Said is dyed in the recombing technology, respectively Australia's hair, Coolmax fiber, polyester fiber and mulberry silk are dyeed during dyeing, wherein:
Wool fibre adopts 90 ℃ of dyeing of low temperature;
The warm type REACTIVE DYES were in 60 ℃ of dyeing during mulberry silk fiber adopted, and control pH value is 8-9, time 60min;
The Coolmax stock-dye adopts the high temperature modification DISPERSE DYES in the time of 40 ℃-50 ℃, to add the diammonium hydrogen phosphate that accounts for fabric 3%-6% mass percent; Regulate dyeing acid basicity and remain on neutrality; 130 ℃ of temperature; Time 60min, pressure 1.96Mpa, dyeing finishes the back with caustic soda sodium hydrosulfite flush away loose colour and oligomer;
Said dyeing and finishing technology flow process is: green compact mending → singly fall → singly boil → braying → two boiling → dry → singe → singly fall → dry by the fire → softness → middle inspection → ripe repairing → brush and cut → dewing → boiling hot light → jar steaming → finished product; Wherein: the braying time is the 25-35 branch, and temperature is 45-55 ℃;
Singly boil with double boiling procedure and all adopt the low temperature cooking method, temperature is 45 ℃-75 ℃, number of times 4-6 time;
It is 100-115 ℃ that jar steams temperature.
In the said dyeing and finishing technology, add hydrophilic finishing agent in the said baking operation.
In the said dyeing and finishing technology, before the said baking operation, the fabric that will contain the COOLMAX fiber cleans with 25 ℃-45 ℃ water.
Said spinning technological process is: silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove one → rove two → spun yarn → automatic winding → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; Control relative humidity 70%-75% in the said spinning process process, temperature 26-30 ℃.
95 ℃ of said yarn steaming temperature, time 60min.
Said warp thread adopts 94/2, and weft yarn adopts 52/1.
Compared with prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects as follows:
The present invention solves coolmax fabric changes of shade has fluctuating, the problem of dyefastness fugitive color.Be when woolen dyed, to add phosphoric acid hydrogen two ammoniums under the normal condition; And when dyeing terylene, do not add; When the Coolmax stock-dye, add diammonium hydrogen phosphate among the present invention, reach the effect of demineralized water, simultaneously through regulating dyeing acid basicity; Buffering is because the variation of pH value causes dyefastness to be prone to rise and fall, and coloured light changes.
The structure of COOLMAX fiber selects dye molecule little, the high temperature modification disperse dyeing that dyefastness is good by I shape and cross the composition.From the fibrous molecular structure analysis, the dyeing course of terylene (comprising modified dacron COOLMAX) is a physical process, rather than chemical process.80 ℃-88 ℃ of the vitrification points of fiber are utilized this characteristics, and fiber at high temperature begins expanded, and ultra-fine dyestuff gets in the fiber, reaches the dyeing purpose.The fibre structure of COOLMAX is because be I shape and cross composition, the dyestuff that molecule is big get into do not adhere to fully behind the fiber firm, in later process; Can be because receive extraneous friction; Washing, and the influence of temperature (high temperature) make the part dyestuff break away from fiber; Or at high temperature break away from fiber with the mode that distils, cause changes of shade and fugitive color phenomenon.Adopt the high temperature modification dyestuff, and add a certain amount of diammonium hydrogen phosphate and solved dyestuff and adhere to insecure and problem fugitive color.It is responsive and produce the changes of shade of chromatic series to coloured light to remedy COOLMAX fiber in the colorant match process simultaneously.
Coarse in order to prevent the product face, feel is stiff, with the postfinishing process adjustment as follows:
1. grey cloth is not singed, and strengthens the cropping operation, the requirement that the face that reaches is bright and clean;
2. according to the characteristic of Coolmax fiber, short time, low temperature braying technology are adopted in braying;
3. the low temperature cooking method is adopted in crabbing;
4. before baking, increase the clear water matting, remove impurity, and then use hydrophilic finishing agent, purpose is wool, mulberry silk and polyester fiber to be refused water cellulose for three kinds carry out hydrophilic treated, reaches the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing effect of product.
5. it is low jar to steam temperature, reduces the damage of wool fibre, Coolmax fiber and mulberry silk fiber, prevents that the dyestuff that adheres in the COOLMAX fiber (modified fibre) from owing to the temperature variation that distils, influencing product coloured light.
The lining that the present invention makes makes full use of wool fibre feltability, warmth retention property preferably, and the humidity absorption and release of Coolmax fiber, the soft and gloss of mulberry silk fiber, polyester fiber are powerful preferably.Embody the design style of lining, warp thread adopts 94/2, and weft yarn adopts 52/1, embodies the top grade of product.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1:
Said blended yarn woven fabric is a raw material by Australia's hair 60%, Coolmax fiber 20%, polyester fiber 15% and mulberry silk 5%, dyes recombing, spins, weaves with dyeing and finishing and process through bar;
One, said technological process of dying recombing is following: the pinecone → dyeing → after backwashing → B411 (silver mixing one time) → B412 (silver mixing two times) → B303 (grilling one time) → B304 (grilling two times) → B311 (combing) → B305 (recombing one) → B305 (recombing two) → B306 (recombing three); Respectively Australia's hair, Coolmax fiber, polyester fiber and mulberry silk are dyeed during dyeing, wherein:
Wool fibre adopts 90 ℃ of dyeing of low temperature, to increase the cohesive force of fiber, improves fiber strength, reduces the wool damage.
Mulberry silk fiber adopts Japanese import REACTIVE DYES (middle warm type) (like the She Malong dyestuff of Japanese import) to adopt 60 ℃ of dyeing, and control pH value is 8-9, time 60min; Reach bright-colored, dyefastness is good, and fiber is felt effect also not.
Coolmax stock-dye employing high temperature DISPERSE DYES add 3%-6% diammonium hydrogen phosphate in the time of 40 ℃-50 ℃; Regulate dyeing acid basicity and remain on pH value about 7, buffering is because the variation of pH value causes dyefastness to be prone to rise and fall, and coloured light changes; 130 ℃ of temperature; Time 60min, pressure 1.96Mpa, dyeing finishes the back with caustic soda sodium hydrosulfite flush away loose colour and oligomer; In addition, the DISPERSE DYES high-temperature and high pressure dyeing process is adopted in the Coolmax stock-dye, adds diammonium hydrogen phosphate, plays the effect of demineralized water in the dyeing, and change color rises and falls when guaranteeing to dye, and reaches the dyeing equilibrium effect.
Carry out recombing after the dyeing, the quality of recombed top is to guarantee to spin to have spun the prerequisite of yarn.Because the Coolmax fibre cohesion is poor, select Henkel Corp. and crude oil for use from silver mixing, refuel mode with spraying.Adopt preceding twice silver mixing of combing, guarantee that wool and other three kinds of fiber mixing are even.The recombing 26mm that will space strengthens combing; Strengthen cleaned at regular intervals work, grilling back zone, three roads tension draft suitably reduces after the combing then, and adjustment makes down heavy irregular being controlled in 1.5% of machine wool top between 7.5 times-8.4 times.
Two, the technological process of spinning process is: B412 (silver mixing) → B423 (scalp acupuncture) → B432 (two pins) → B442 (three pins) → B452 (four pins) → FB441 (rove one) → FB441 (rove two) → spun yarn → automatic winding → doubling (oiling) → double twisting → yarn steaming;
Because four kinds of fibre properties differ greatly; Particularly Coolmax fiber humidity absorption and release is fast, and the easy overdrying of yarn twines roller for producing in preventing to produce, around the roller phenomenon; Bring yarn evenness quality influence and yarn card nailing neps; Workshop moisture temperature is controlled relative humidity 70%-75% in the production, temperature 26-30 ℃.
Improve the rove evenness quality, rove adopts 2 road dandy roving technologies, feeds 8 of quantitative silver mixings, and 7 of scalp acupunctures are adjusted between all the other operation 3-2 roots.Each operation is spaced and between 25mm-50mm, is adjusted, and 19.5 times of the drafting multiples that spun yarn is selected for use are avoided misdraft, does to keep the spun yarn bar, and the speed of a motor vehicle 8000 is changeed, and selects the 31# steel traveler.Select the darker apron of the smooth groove of apron for use, reduce the control at apron rear portion, prevent that drafting force is excessive and when causing drawing-off yarn skid, produce elephant skin yarn and hardhead.95 ℃ of yarn steaming temperature, time 60min, and require on yarn, to cover clean cloth, prevent the water droplet wool yarn, cause the yarn adhesion.Yarn behind the yarn steaming at normal temperatures, natural air drying was placed 24 hours, automatic number of twists is no more than 10/meter when guaranteeing behind the yarn steaming that 1 meter long yarn doubling is sagging naturally.
Three, the weaving process flow process is: warping → gait, plug in reed, inserted sheet → arrow shaft are weaved
Carry out in order to make to weave smoothly, warp tension is a 18-20 gram/root during warping, and speed is 320 meters/minute; Beaming tension force is 2000g/m, and speed is 60 meters/minute, reduces the beam of a loom end breakage rate.
330 rev/mins of loom speed of a motor vehicle controls, Tension Control is at 150-160kg, and weft tension suitably increases, back rest position 0, warp stop frame-2, weaving efficiency is more than 89%.
Four, the dyeing and finishing technology flow process is: green compact mending → singly fall → singly boil → braying → two boiling → dry → singe → singly fall → dry (hydrophilic finishing agent) → softness → middle inspection → ripe repairing → brush and cut → dewing → boiling hot light → KD jar steaming → finished product
Wash the postfinishing process of product according to hair, coarse in order to prevent the product face, feel is stiff, with the postfinishing process adjustment as follows:
Grey cloth is not singed, and strengthens the cropping operation, the requirement that the face that reaches is bright and clean;
According to the characteristic of Coolmax fiber, short time, low temperature braying technology are adopted in braying, and the braying time is 35 minutes, and temperature is 45 ℃;
The low temperature cooking method is adopted in crabbing (singly boil, two boiling), and temperature is 45 ℃, number of times 6 times;
Before baking, increase the clear water matting; The fabric that will contain the COOLMAX fiber cleans with 25 ℃-45 ℃ water; And the use hydrophilic finishing agent, purpose is wool, mulberry silk and polyester fiber to be refused water cellulose for three kinds carry out the clear water processing, reaches the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing effect of product.
It is 115 ℃ that jar steams temperature, reduces the damage of wool fibre, Coolmax fiber and mulberry silk fiber.
Fabric specification:
Warp thread yarn count: 94/2 Australia's hair 60%; Coolmax fiber 20%; Polyester fiber 15%; Mulberry silk 5%
Weft yarn yarn count: 52/1 Australia's hair 60%; Coolmax fiber 20%; Polyester fiber 15%; Mulberry silk 5%
Finished product warp/filling density: 324*285 root/10cm
Weight per square meter: 125g/m 2
The finished product door width of cloth: 154-2cm.
Embodiment 2:
The difference of present embodiment and embodiment 1 is:
In the dyeing and finishing technology, the braying time is 25 minutes, and temperature is 55 ℃; The low temperature cooking method is adopted in crabbing (singly boil, two boiling), and temperature is 75 ℃, number of times 4 times; It is 100 ℃ that jar steams temperature.
Embodiment 3:
The difference of present embodiment and embodiment 1 is:
In the dyeing and finishing technology, the braying time is 30 minutes, and temperature is 50 ℃; The low temperature cooking method is adopted in crabbing (singly boil, two boiling), and temperature is 70 ℃, number of times 5 times; It is 110 ℃ that jar steams temperature.
With the lining that the present invention makes, cut the square sheet of 50 * 50mm, drip clear water to its surface with dropper; All scatter among the 5s; And conventional lining can form the globule on its surface, is difficult to scatter, and proves that lining of the present invention has fabulous moisture absorbing and sweat releasing effect.
COLOR FASTNESS result test:
1, Washing: standard determination method can see the GB5713-85 standard for details.
2, soaping fastness: standard determination method can see the GB3921-83 method standard for details.
3, dried, fastness to wet rubbing: the mensuration colour fastness to rubbing of GB3920-83 method, relatively the raising degree of fastness before and after the fixation.
4, perspiration fastness: standard method of test can see the GB3922-83 method standard for details.
The The performance test results summary sheet:
? Embodiment 1 Embodiment 2 Embodiment 3 Contrast (common thread water absorben perspiring shell fabric)
Washing The 4-5 level The 4-5 level The 4-5 level 3 grades
Soaping fastness The 4-5 level 4 grades 4 grades The 2-3 level
Dry fastness 4 grades 3 grades 4 grades The 2-3 level
Fastness to wet rubbing 3 grades 3 grades 3 grades The 2-3 level
Perspiration fastness 4 grades 4 grades 4 grades 2 grades

Claims (6)

1. the manufacturing approach of wool/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric; It is characterized in that: said blended yarn woven fabric manufacturing approach is to be raw material with Australia's hair 60%, Coolmax fiber 20%, polyester fiber 15% and mulberry silk 5%, dyes recombing, spins, weaves with the dyeing and finishing technology step and process through bar;
Said is dyed in the recombing technology, respectively Australia's hair, Coolmax fiber, polyester fiber and mulberry silk are dyeed during dyeing, wherein:
Wool fibre adopts 90 ℃ of dyeing of low temperature;
The warm type REACTIVE DYES were in 60 ℃ of dyeing during mulberry silk fiber adopted, and control pH value is 8-9, time 60min;
The Coolmax stock-dye adopts the high temperature modification DISPERSE DYES in the time of 40 ℃-50 ℃, to add the diammonium hydrogen phosphate that accounts for fabric 3%-6% mass percent; Regulate dyeing acid basicity and remain on neutrality; 130 ℃ of temperature; Time 60min, pressure 1.96Mpa, dyeing finishes the back with caustic soda sodium hydrosulfite flush away loose colour and oligomer;
Said dyeing and finishing technology flow process is: green compact mending → singly fall → singly boil → braying → two boiling → dry → singe → singly fall → dry by the fire → softness → middle inspection → ripe repairing → brush and cut → dewing → boiling hot light → jar steaming → finished product; Wherein: the braying time is the 25-35 branch, and temperature is 45-55 ℃;
Singly boil with double boiling procedure and all adopt the low temperature cooking method, temperature is 45 ℃-75 ℃, number of times 4-6 time;
It is 100-115 ℃ that jar steams temperature.
2. the manufacturing approach of a kind of wool according to claim 1/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric is characterized in that: in the said dyeing and finishing technology, add hydrophilic finishing agent in the said baking operation.
3. the manufacturing approach of a kind of wool according to claim 1/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric; It is characterized in that: in the said dyeing and finishing technology; Before the said baking operation, the fabric that will contain the COOLMAX fiber cleans with 25 ℃-45 ℃ water.
4. the manufacturing approach of a kind of wool according to claim 1/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric, it is characterized in that: said spinning technological process is: silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove one → rove two → spun yarn → automatic winding → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; Control relative humidity 70%-75% in the said spinning process process, temperature 26-30 ℃.
5. the manufacturing approach of a kind of wool according to claim 4/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric is characterized in that: 95 ℃ of said yarn steaming temperature, time 60min.
6. the manufacturing approach of a kind of wool according to claim 1/Coolmax/ mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended yarn woven fabric is characterized in that: said warp thread adopts 94/2, and weft yarn adopts 52/1.
CN 201210049227 2012-02-29 2012-02-29 Production method of wool/Coolmax/mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended fabric CN102560930B (en)

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CN102808277A (en) * 2012-09-07 2012-12-05 江苏鹿港科技股份有限公司 Preparation method of stereoscopic low-carbon fur spun wool
CN102817141A (en) * 2012-07-30 2012-12-12 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Production method of anion tweed fabric
CN103966727A (en) * 2014-04-22 2014-08-06 江阴兴吴呢绒科技有限公司 High-color-fastness wool-polyester blended fabric and manufacturing method thereof
CN104294461A (en) * 2014-10-18 2015-01-21 江苏澳洋纺织实业有限公司 Silk fabric made of fine-denier doubled yarns
CN104397909A (en) * 2014-12-22 2015-03-11 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Production process of multi-component easy-to-care fabric
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CN105648604A (en) * 2016-04-01 2016-06-08 张家港市东亚毛纺织有限公司 COOLMAX SIROFIL yarn and production method thereof
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CN102817141A (en) * 2012-07-30 2012-12-12 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Production method of anion tweed fabric
CN102808277A (en) * 2012-09-07 2012-12-05 江苏鹿港科技股份有限公司 Preparation method of stereoscopic low-carbon fur spun wool
CN103966727A (en) * 2014-04-22 2014-08-06 江阴兴吴呢绒科技有限公司 High-color-fastness wool-polyester blended fabric and manufacturing method thereof
CN103966727B (en) * 2014-04-22 2015-05-27 江阴兴吴呢绒科技有限公司 High-color-fastness wool-polyester blended fabric and manufacturing method thereof
CN104294461A (en) * 2014-10-18 2015-01-21 江苏澳洋纺织实业有限公司 Silk fabric made of fine-denier doubled yarns
CN104397909A (en) * 2014-12-22 2015-03-11 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Production process of multi-component easy-to-care fabric
CN104452002A (en) * 2014-12-22 2015-03-25 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 High-proportion mohair tweed production process
CN104397909B (en) * 2014-12-22 2017-01-18 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Production process of multi-component easy-to-care fabric
CN104452002B (en) * 2014-12-22 2017-02-22 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 High-proportion mohair tweed production process
CN104510055A (en) * 2014-12-24 2015-04-15 江苏华西村精毛纺织有限公司 Wool/crotalaria sp./mulberry silk/cotton/polyester fiber blended fabric and preparation method thereof
CN104514071A (en) * 2014-12-24 2015-04-15 江苏华西村精毛纺织有限公司 Wool/cattle fluff fiber/mulberry silk/copper ammonia fiber blended fabric and preparation method thereof
CN104432892A (en) * 2014-12-27 2015-03-25 江苏华西村精毛纺织有限公司 Wool/cashmere/modal/mulberry silk/antimicrobial polypropylene blended yarn weaved fabric and manufacturing method
CN104674432A (en) * 2015-03-19 2015-06-03 苏州陈恒织造有限公司 Manufacturing method for boiling and sizing copper ammonia fiber/bamboo fiber anti-bacterial blended fabric
CN104695113A (en) * 2015-03-20 2015-06-10 苏州陈恒织造有限公司 Method of producing wool/polypropylene fiber fabrics by aid of liquid all-in-one printing and dyeing process
CN104727170A (en) * 2015-03-20 2015-06-24 苏州陈恒织造有限公司 Preparation method of polypropylene/wool/polyester fiber blended fabric
CN105401295A (en) * 2015-10-21 2016-03-16 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Manufacturing method for fabric with antibacterial and health care effects
CN105200619A (en) * 2015-10-21 2015-12-30 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Cashmere fabric produced through biological enzyme technology, and process of cashmere fabric
CN105200601A (en) * 2015-10-21 2015-12-30 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Preparation method of radiation-proof fabric
CN105544057A (en) * 2016-02-26 2016-05-04 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Preparing technology for mohair and silk tweed easy to care
CN105648604A (en) * 2016-04-01 2016-06-08 张家港市东亚毛纺织有限公司 COOLMAX SIROFIL yarn and production method thereof
CN106987970A (en) * 2017-05-23 2017-07-28 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 The manufacture craft of cuprammonium Silk antistatic spinning fancy suiting
CN107475839A (en) * 2017-08-04 2017-12-15 江苏澳洋世家服装有限公司 A kind of processing technology of elastic wool suiting
CN109355749A (en) * 2018-09-03 2019-02-19 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 A kind of preparation method of the wool blended machine knitting yarn of coolmax ecology
CN111942072A (en) * 2020-08-17 2020-11-17 康兰 Method for making cashmere painting

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