CN105200621B - A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric - Google Patents
A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN105200621B CN105200621B CN201510684256.3A CN201510684256A CN105200621B CN 105200621 B CN105200621 B CN 105200621B CN 201510684256 A CN201510684256 A CN 201510684256A CN 105200621 B CN105200621 B CN 105200621B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric, using 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 60～70%, Sorona fiber 30～40%, through dyeing, spinning, weaving and finishing process, new elastic fabric is obtained.This product is the new fabric of elastic environmental-protection type, and product is formed by Pilus Caprae seu Oviss/Sorona fiber blend, has the characteristics that Pilus Caprae seu Oviss are soft glutinous smooth, elastic sufficient, and comfortable and easy to wear not tight.Addition due to Sorona fiber, both remained the primary characteristic of raw material, embody the quality of Pilus Caprae seu Oviss again, improve flexibility and the skin-friendly of fabric, increased drapability and fabric sheen, give the natural soft feel of fabric, replacement spandex has preferable stretching and elastic recovery, cold-proof comfort, dry and comfortable ventilative and washability is good, pendency is crease-resistant environment friendly and pollution-free, is the preferable fabric making high-grade leisure clothing.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to weaving face fabric preparing technical field, particularly to a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric.
Background technology
With the continuous lifting of wool quality and the successive optimization of process technology, China's wool textile enterprises have proceeded to high-end product
The competition situation of product.The hair that the ecology arisen at the historic moment, environmental protection, functionalization worsted fabric substitute routine increasingly washs main road product, root
According to strengthening the needs that independent brand is built, by the abundant investigation of domestic and international market it has been found that Sorona fiber is numerous
There are in apparel applications excellent combining properties：Outstanding soft feel, comfortable elasticity and unique recoverability, Yi Jise
Color bright-coloured, anti-chlorine/uvioresistant etc..Sorona fiber can be with any other fiber blend or intertexture-inclusion staple fibre
(such as terylene, nylon, spandex etc.) and natural fiber (such as cotton, fiber crops and Pilus Caprae seu Oviss etc.).Product is widely used in shirt, trousers, west
The fields such as clothes, overcoat, cowboy, underwear, sportswear.Become textile with Sorona fiber process, comfortable, wear-resisting, elastic, anti-
The aspect of performances such as wrinkle, protection are significantly better than existing other textile fabrics, and Sorona fiber dyeing performance is good, thus designs and varieties
More rich and varied, enjoy consumers, Sorona advantage unique is its superior natural elasticity and recyclable, again
Usability, becomes " environmental protection century " the most valued project.
In addition, through market survey, according to the continuous reinforcement of present consumer environmental protection ideas, Environmental-protecting elastic fabric oneself become existing
Modern consumption is new to be guided, and by the analysis of like product and research, and consults related data, elastic fabric in the market is many
Elastic effect is reached using a certain proportion of spandex of addition or Lycra, but adds the fabric of this kind of raw material with the time of wearing
Extend be also easy to produce plastic deformation, the disadvantage such as elastic recovery is poor, spandex easily exposes.And a high proportion of Sorona elastic fiber plus
Enter, overcome the drawbacks of spandex, Lycra fabric has splendid elasticity again, and because its raw material sources is in Semen Maydiss, advantage unique is
Its recyclable, recycling property.The Product Green that produced, ecological, environmental protective.
But, Sorona fiber belongs to improved elastic terylene, and high-temperature dyeing is also easy to produce larger aberration, easily loses intrinsic bullet
Property, and the easy red change of fabric Final finishing high-temperature shaping produced, low temperature can lead to poor dimensional stability again, and elastic elongation is not
Enough, production difficulty is larger.
Content of the invention
The invention aims to providing a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric, there is soft glutinous smooth, elastic abundance
Feature.
In order to realize the purpose of the present invention, employed technical scheme comprise that：
A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric is it is characterised in that include step：
1), dyeing process
Due to using 70 Australia's hairs, injury-free for protection fiber, it is easy to rear road and produces, therefore select environment-friendly type import
Reactive dye for wool orchid receives plain red 6G, yellow 4G or black CE, and using low temperature dyeing, dyeing temperature controls at 85 DEG C, is incubated 55 points
Clock.It is to reduce color flower simultaneously, improve chromatic light effect, and adopt import levelling agent Ah's BAIGE B, bath raio adopts 1:10；Save
Water, electricity, vapour, production energy-saving, substantially reduce Enterprise Integrated production cost, improve spinning row yielding and yarn strength simultaneously, and then
Improve feel and the style of fabric.
Sorona fiber carries out low temperature dyeing with disperse dyes, temperature retention time controls at 110 DEG C it is ensured that fiber color yield,
Dyefastness and special elasticity.
During after backwashing, for ensure strip easily dry, easy grilling, after backwashing groove temperature control is in 65 DEG C of 1 groove, 2,3 40 DEG C of grooves, 4 grooves
55 DEG C, under after backwashing, machine wool top reaches refreshing, clean, suitable feel.Using the mixed comb of stamp wool top collocation adding 40%, color during mixed comb
Pure, finished product face is clearly fine and smooth.
2), spinning process
During recombing, for reducing fibre damage, it is easy to combing, close setting is taken in each road, little drawing-off (B306 gauge
45mm, 6 times of drawing-offs), recombing ensures that fleece is straight, clearly, concrete measure：Control the feed quantity 50mm/ minute of profit, silver mixing
When add 0.3%～1% environmental protection and crude oil agent, each procedure of front spinning all adopts small tension receiving coil, reducing the damage of fiber it is ensured that
Spinning efficiency spinning process follows light feeding, little drawing-off, the principle of low speed：Spun yarn walks 7000 revs/min of compact spinning speed, winder
750 revs/min, tension pulley 100cN, Temperature and Humidity Control, 23 DEG C of temperature, humidity 75%, resultant yarn strand is uniformly bright and clean, and filoplume is few.
3), weaving process
Guarantee during warping that yarn path is smooth, piece yarn tension uniformly, prevents cloth cover to be produced from and hangs.Using compounding during beaming
The cold slurry agent of macromolecule HG106 warp thread, wax, than control 8%, improves the wearability docile filoplume of yarn.
Using import Italy SMIT rapier loom, 320 ms/min of speed, tension force, in 230N-250N, reduces for weaving
Misdraft, for ensureing fabric quality, for further adjustments on back rest opening on equipment, using isostension opening, (back rest water
Flat 2 grades, vertical 313 degree of+2 tension force 280N heald level time), face lines is clearly fine and smooth, and grey quality is good.
Loom knitting technology：Upper machine weft density：194*194 root/10cm, upper gate width 183.5cm, porter 97#, fabric group
Knit 1/1 plain weave.
Further, also include finishing process：
Open washing connection boil → dry inspection in fixed → braying → bis- boil singe → height washes → bis- boil → absorb water → dry → middle inspection → ripe
Repair → roll soft → middle inspection → dewing → KD tank steaming → finished product
What this kind mainly projected is Comfortable elastic and softness, the fine and smooth feel meeting Human Physiology demand, dyeing and finishing
Technique open washing connection of singing after walking boils strengthening process route (usual processing route is not walked open washing connection and boiled, and only walks double boiling), each road broadwise
Small tension receiving coil prevents from destroying elastic elongation, the gloss of prominent fabric, soft.It is fixed to dry：160 DEG C of * 20m/min, middle overfeeding；Double
Boil：80 DEG C * 30,1,3,4,6 pressurizations, 200ml HAC, decatizing：WPF 7# technique, turn around to stand up, (control stress point：Wet cloth is shaped,
Strengthen wearability, pH value controls 6-7, decatizing naturalness is entered machine, is not added with tension force, and 120s room temperature decatizing twice, prevents head
Tail aberration).
Improve crabbing temperature and carry out abundant pre-setting, reduce setting temperature prevention red change, not only ensure fabric dimensionally stable
Property, and not complexion changed.Final finishing, through low-temperature shaped arrangement, makes fabric have superior elastic, splendid wrinkle resistance, comfortable
Feel, pure color wearability excellent, added value of product is high.
Preferably, in the raw material using, containing 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 60～70%, Sorona fiber 30～40%.
For fiber properties, Sorona stock-dye adopts 110 DEG C of low temperature dyeings of hollow ball, so that dye molecule is fully permeated
To fibrous inside, it is adsorbed onto fiber inner surface it is ensured that coloured light accurately, is fully unclogged and readjusted mixed with stamp wool top after Sorona stock-dye
Close, make each component fibre mix homogeneously, pure color.
Final finishing workshop section mainly around complexion changed and elastic selection process route, for the easy red change of high-temperature shaping, Low-Temperature Size
Stability difference does not reach elastic effect, takes each road broadwise small tension receiving coil, and open washing connection is singed to firing technique after singing after boiling again, boiled
At 100 DEG C about, softening agent usage amount is reduced to 1% to temperature control, and setting temperature controls very regular at 160 ± 5 DEG C
Reason process route, to ensure the pure and good wearability of fabric color.
The device have the advantages that：
This product is the new fabric of elastic environmental-protection type, and product is formed by Pilus Caprae seu Oviss/Sorona fiber blend, has the soft glutinous cunning of Pilus Caprae seu Oviss
Feature refreshing, that elasticity is sufficient, and comfortable and easy to wear not tight.Due to the addition of Sorona fiber, both remained the original of raw material
Characteristic, embodies the quality of Pilus Caprae seu Oviss again, improves flexibility and the skin-friendly of fabric, increased drapability and fabric sheen, gives
The natural soft feel of fabric, replace spandex there is preferable stretching and elastic recovery, cold-proof comfort is dry and comfortable ventilative and resistance to
Washing property is good, and pendency is crease-resistant environment friendly and pollution-free, is the preferable fabric making high-grade leisure clothing.
Because the characteristic of Sorona fiber gives the elasticity that this fabric meets Human Physiology demand, Sorona fiber in addition
It is to generate PDO using the method for primverose fermentation, carry out section after adding TPA reaction and make, raw material sources are in renewable money
Source rather than petrochemical material, not only energy saving but also ecological, environmental protective, meet ecological, green, environmental protection, the reproducible reason that the whole world is advocated
Read, can significantly alleviate oil crisis.
Specific embodiment
With reference to embodiment, the invention will be further described, but protection scope of the present invention is not limited solely to implement
Example.
From raw material parameter as follows,
Embodiment 1
A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric is it is characterised in that include step：
1), dyeing process
Pilus Caprae seu Oviss receive plain red 6G from environment-friendly type import reactive dye for wool orchid, and dyeing temperature controls at 80 DEG C, are incubated 55 points
Clock；And adopt import levelling agent Ah's BAIGE B, bath raio adopts 1:10；
Sorona fiber carries out low temperature dyeing with disperse dyes, and holding temperature controls at 100～110 DEG C,
During after backwashing, for ensure strip easily dry, easy grilling, after backwashing groove temperature control in 65 DEG C of 1 groove, 2 grooves, 40 DEG C of 3 groove, 4
55 DEG C of groove, mixes using the mixed comb of stamp wool top collocation adding 40% during comb,
2), spinning process
During recombing, close setting is taken in each road, little drawing-off (B306 gauge 45mm, 6 times of drawing-offs), and recombing ensures
Fleece is straight, clearly, concrete measure：Control the feed quantity 50mm/ minute of profit, during silver mixing, add 0.3% environmental protection and crude oil
Agent, each procedure of front spinning all adopts small tension receiving coil, to reduce the damage of fiber it is ensured that spinning efficiency spinning process follows light feeding,
Little drawing-off, the principle of low speed：Spun yarn walks 7000 revs/min of compact spinning speed, 750 revs/min of winder, tension pulley 100cN, humiture
Control, 23 DEG C of temperature, humidity 75%,
3), weaving process
Using the compounding cold slurry agent of macromolecule HG106 warp thread during beaming, wax than control 5%,
Using import Italy SMIT rapier loom, 320 ms/min of speed, tension force, in 230N, reduces unexpected leading for weaving
Stretch, for ensureing fabric quality, for further adjustments on back rest opening on equipment, using isostension opening, (horizontal 2 grades of the back rest,
Vertically 313 degree of+2 tension force 280N heald level time).
Loom knitting technology：Upper machine weft density：194*194 root/10cm, upper gate width 183.5cm, porter 97#, fabric group
Knit 1/1 plain weave.
Finishing process：
Open washing connection boil → dry inspection in fixed → braying → bis- boil singe → height washes → bis- boil → absorb water → dry → middle inspection → ripe
Repair → roll soft → middle inspection → dewing → KD tank steaming → finished product
It is fixed to dry：160 DEG C, 20m/min, middle overfeeding；Double boil：80 DEG C * 30,1,3,4,6 pressurizations, 200ml HAC, decatizing：WPF
7# technique, turn around to stand up, (control stress point：Wet cloth is shaped, and strengthens wearability, and pH value controls 6-7, and decatizing naturalness enters machine,
It is not added with tension force, 120s room temperature decatizing twice, prevents head tail aberration).
In the raw material using, containing 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 60%, Sorona fiber 40%.
Embodiment 2
A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric is it is characterised in that include step：
1), dyeing process
Pilus Caprae seu Oviss select environment-friendly type import reactive dye for wool Huang 4G, and dyeing temperature controls at 85 DEG C, is incubated 60 minutes；And
Using import levelling agent Ah's BAIGE B, bath raio adopts 1:20；
Sorona fiber carries out low temperature dyeing with disperse dyes, and holding temperature controls at 110 DEG C,
During after backwashing, for ensure strip easily dry, easy grilling, after backwashing groove temperature control in 65 DEG C of 1 groove, 2 grooves, 40 DEG C of 3 groove, 4
55 DEG C of groove, mixes using the mixed comb of stamp wool top collocation adding 50% during comb,
2), spinning process
During recombing, close setting is taken in each road, little drawing-off (B306 gauge 45mm, 6 times of drawing-offs), and recombing ensures
Fleece is straight, clearly, concrete measure：Control the feed quantity 50mm/ minute of profit, during silver mixing, add 0.6% environmental protection and crude oil
Agent, each procedure of front spinning all adopts small tension receiving coil, to reduce the damage of fiber it is ensured that spinning efficiency spinning process follows light feeding,
Little drawing-off, the principle of low speed：Spun yarn walks 7000 revs/min of compact spinning speed, 750 revs/min of winder, tension pulley 120cN, humiture
Control, 23 DEG C of temperature, humidity 75%,
3), weaving process
Using the compounding cold slurry agent of macromolecule HG106 warp thread during beaming, wax than control 10%,
Using import Italy SMIT rapier loom, 320 ms/min of speed, tension force, in 250N, reduces unexpected leading for weaving
Stretch, for ensureing fabric quality, for further adjustments on back rest opening on equipment, using isostension opening, (horizontal 2 grades of the back rest,
Vertically 313 degree of+2 tension force 280N heald level time).
Loom knitting technology：Upper machine weft density：194*194 root/10cm, upper gate width 183.5cm, porter 97#, fabric group
Knit 1/1 plain weave.
Finishing process：
Open washing connection boil → dry inspection in fixed → braying → bis- boil singe → height washes → bis- boil → absorb water → dry → middle inspection → ripe
Repair → roll soft → middle inspection → dewing → KD tank steaming → finished product
It is fixed to dry：160 DEG C, 20m/min, middle overfeeding；Double boil：80 DEG C * 30,1,3,4,6 pressurizations, 200ml HAC, decatizing：WPF
7# technique, turn around to stand up.(control stress point：Wet cloth is shaped, and strengthens wearability, and pH value controls 6-7, and decatizing naturalness enters machine,
It is not added with tension force, 120s room temperature decatizing twice, prevents head tail aberration).
In the raw material using, containing 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 670%, Sorona fiber 30%.
Embodiment 3
A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric is it is characterised in that include step：
1), dyeing process
Pilus Caprae seu Oviss select the black CE of environment-friendly type import reactive dye for wool, and dyeing temperature controls at 82 DEG C, are incubated 58 minutes；And
Using import levelling agent Ah's BAIGE B, bath raio adopts 1:15；
Sorona fiber carries out low temperature dyeing with disperse dyes, and holding temperature controls at 105 DEG C,
During after backwashing, for ensure strip easily dry, easy grilling, after backwashing groove temperature control in 65 DEG C of 1 groove, 2 grooves, 40 DEG C of 3 groove, 4
55 DEG C of groove, mixes using the mixed comb of stamp wool top collocation adding 45% during comb,
2), spinning process
During recombing, close setting is taken in each road, little drawing-off (B306 gauge 45mm, 6 times of drawing-offs), and recombing ensures
Fleece is straight, clearly, concrete measure：Control the feed quantity 50mm/ minute of profit, during silver mixing, add 1% environmental protection and crude oil agent,
The each procedure of front spinning all adopts small tension receiving coil, to reduce the damage of fiber it is ensured that spinning efficiency spinning process follows light feeding, little lead
Stretch, the principle of low speed：Spun yarn walks 7000 revs/min of compact spinning speed, 750 revs/min of winder, tension pulley 100cN, humiture control
System, 23 DEG C of temperature, humidity 75%,
3), weaving process
Using the compounding cold slurry agent of macromolecule HG106 warp thread during beaming, wax than control 5～10%,
Using import Italy SMIT rapier loom, 320 ms/min of speed, tension force, in 230N-250N, reduces for weaving
Misdraft, for ensureing fabric quality, for further adjustments on back rest opening on equipment, using isostension opening, (back rest water
Flat 2 grades, vertical 313 degree of+2 tension force 280N heald level time).
Loom knitting technology：Upper machine weft density：194*194 root/10cm, upper gate width 183.5cm, porter 97#, fabric group
Knit 1/1 plain weave.
Finishing process：
Open washing connection boil → dry inspection in fixed → braying → bis- boil singe → height washes → bis- boil → absorb water → dry → middle inspection → ripe
Repair → roll soft → middle inspection → dewing → KD tank steaming → finished product
It is fixed to dry：160 DEG C, 20m/min, middle overfeeding；Double boil：80 DEG C * 30,1,3,4,6 pressurizations, 200ml HAC, decatizing：WPF
7# technique, turn around to stand up.(control stress point：Wet cloth is shaped, and strengthens wearability, and pH value controls 6-7, and decatizing naturalness enters machine,
It is not added with tension force, 120s room temperature decatizing twice, prevents head tail aberration).
In the raw material using, containing 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 65%, Sorona fiber 35%.
According to standard GB/T/T 26382-2011, being detected, testing result is as follows to prepared fabric：
A. broadwise elastic extension：24%；
B. dry and wet crock fastness：≥4；
C. static size changing rate：≥-0.7；
D. colour fastness to perspiration：4-5 level.
From test result, the indices of product meet GB/T 26382-2011 country examination criteria.
Finally it should be noted that：Above example only not limits technology described in the invention in order to the present invention to be described
Scheme；Therefore, although this specification with reference to each above-mentioned embodiment to present invention has been detailed description, this
Field it is to be appreciated by one skilled in the art that still the present invention can be modified or equivalent；And all are without departing from this
The technical scheme of spirit and scope of invention and its improvement, it all should be covered in scope of the presently claimed invention.
Claims (3)
1. a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric is it is characterised in that include step：
1）, dyeing process
Pilus Caprae seu Oviss receive plain red 6G, yellow 4G or black CE from environment-friendly type import reactive dye for wool orchid, and dyeing temperature controls 80～
85 DEG C, it is incubated 55～60 minutes；And adopt import levelling agent Ah's BAIGE B, bath raio adopts 1:10～1：20；
Sorona fiber carries out low temperature dyeing with disperse dyes, and holding temperature controls at 100～110 DEG C,
During after backwashing, for ensure strip easily dry, easy grilling, after backwashing groove temperature control is in 65 DEG C of 1 groove, 2 grooves, 40 DEG C of 3 groove, 4 grooves 55
DEG C, mix the stamp wool top collocation mixed comb using addition 40%～50% during comb,
2）, spinning process
During recombing, B306 gauge 45mm, 6 times of drawing-offs are taken in each road, and recombing ensures that fleece is straight, clearly, specifically
Measure：Control the feed quantity 50mm/ minute of profit, during silver mixing, add 0.3%～1% environmental protection and crude oil agent, each procedure of front spinning
In, spun yarn walks 7000 revs/min of compact spinning speed, 750 revs/min of winder, tension pulley 100～120cN, Temperature and Humidity Control, temperature 23
DEG C, humidity 75%,
3）, weaving process
Using the compounding cold slurry agent of macromolecule HG106 warp thread during beaming, wax than control 5～10%,
Using import Italy SMIT rapier loom, 320 ms/min of speed, tension force, in 230N-250N, reduces unexpected for weaving
Drawing-off, for ensureing fabric quality, for further adjustments on back rest opening on equipment, using isostension opening, the back rest horizontal 2
Shelves, vertical+2, tension force 280N, 313 degree of heald level time,
Loom knitting technology：Upper machine weft density：194*194 root/10cm, upper gate width 183.5cm, porter 97#, fabric tissue 1/
1 plain weave.
2. a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that also include finishing process：
Open washing connection boil → dry inspection in fixed → braying → bis- boil singe → height washes → bis- boil → absorb water → dry → middle inspection → ripe repair →
Roll soft → middle inspection → dewing → KD tank steaming → finished product
It is fixed to dry：160 DEG C, 20m/min, middle overfeeding；Double boil：80 DEG C * 30,1,3,4,6 pressurizations, 200ml HAC, decatizing：PH value control
6-7 processed, decatizing naturalness enters machine, is not added with tension force, and 120s room temperature decatizing twice, prevents head tail aberration.
3. a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that in the raw material using, contain
There are 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 60～70%, Sorona fiber 30～40%.
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| CN109423742A (en) * | 2017-08-30 | 2019-03-05 | 浙江吉麻良丝新材料股份有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of Sorona/ flax fiber blending fabric |
| CN107447320A (en) * | 2017-09-23 | 2017-12-08 | 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 | A kind of machine washable velvet apple machine knitting yarn and its production technology |
| CN107630285A (en) * | 2017-09-30 | 2018-01-26 | 宿迁市神龙家纺有限公司 | A kind of high-elastic woollen blanket of antibiotic health care type and its production technology |
| CN109355750A (en) * | 2018-09-05 | 2019-02-19 | 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of the wool blended machine knitting yarn of Suo Luona |
| CN109295594A (en) * | 2018-09-24 | 2019-02-01 | 海宁市晶森经编有限公司 | A kind of preparation process of elastic fabric |
| CN112813563B (en) * | 2020-12-31 | 2022-08-02 | 浙江汇纤纺织科技有限公司 | Sorona filament Richcel spun yarn variable-twist covered yarn fabric |
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| CN102797104B (en) * | 2012-08-01 | 2014-04-30 | 劲霸男装（上海）有限公司 | Processing method of Sorona and silk clothes fabric |
| CN103835048B (en) * | 2012-11-27 | 2015-06-03 | 山东沃源新型面料股份有限公司 | Low-wool-content multi-component chemical fiber blended fabric |
| CN103031637B (en) * | 2013-01-11 | 2015-03-25 | 劲霸男装（上海）有限公司 | Sorona/wool semi-worsted spinning yarn as well as manufacturing process thereof and application thereof |
| CN103469436A (en) * | 2013-09-24 | 2013-12-25 | 昆山市周市镇吉盛服装厂 | Preparation method for elastic force weaving shell fabric |
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