CN105200621B - A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric - Google Patents

A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105200621B
CN105200621B CN201510684256.3A CN201510684256A CN105200621B CN 105200621 B CN105200621 B CN 105200621B CN 201510684256 A CN201510684256 A CN 201510684256A CN 105200621 B CN105200621 B CN 105200621B
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fabric
elastic
temperature
dry
caprae seu
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CN201510684256.3A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN105200621A (en
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刘伟
姜爱娟
高为顺
陈敏
程锦绣
陈文娟
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江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司
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Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric, using 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 60~70%, Sorona fiber 30~40%, through dyeing, spinning, weaving and finishing process, new elastic fabric is obtained.This product is the new fabric of elastic environmental-protection type, and product is formed by Pilus Caprae seu Oviss/Sorona fiber blend, has the characteristics that Pilus Caprae seu Oviss are soft glutinous smooth, elastic sufficient, and comfortable and easy to wear not tight.Addition due to Sorona fiber, both remained the primary characteristic of raw material, embody the quality of Pilus Caprae seu Oviss again, improve flexibility and the skin-friendly of fabric, increased drapability and fabric sheen, give the natural soft feel of fabric, replacement spandex has preferable stretching and elastic recovery, cold-proof comfort, dry and comfortable ventilative and washability is good, pendency is crease-resistant environment friendly and pollution-free, is the preferable fabric making high-grade leisure clothing.

Description

A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric
Technical field
The invention belongs to weaving face fabric preparing technical field, particularly to a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric.
Background technology
With the continuous lifting of wool quality and the successive optimization of process technology, China's wool textile enterprises have proceeded to high-end product The competition situation of product.The hair that the ecology arisen at the historic moment, environmental protection, functionalization worsted fabric substitute routine increasingly washs main road product, root According to strengthening the needs that independent brand is built, by the abundant investigation of domestic and international market it has been found that Sorona fiber is numerous There are in apparel applications excellent combining properties:Outstanding soft feel, comfortable elasticity and unique recoverability, Yi Jise Color bright-coloured, anti-chlorine/uvioresistant etc..Sorona fiber can be with any other fiber blend or intertexture-inclusion staple fibre (such as terylene, nylon, spandex etc.) and natural fiber (such as cotton, fiber crops and Pilus Caprae seu Oviss etc.).Product is widely used in shirt, trousers, west The fields such as clothes, overcoat, cowboy, underwear, sportswear.Become textile with Sorona fiber process, comfortable, wear-resisting, elastic, anti- The aspect of performances such as wrinkle, protection are significantly better than existing other textile fabrics, and Sorona fiber dyeing performance is good, thus designs and varieties More rich and varied, enjoy consumers, Sorona advantage unique is its superior natural elasticity and recyclable, again Usability, becomes " environmental protection century " the most valued project.
In addition, through market survey, according to the continuous reinforcement of present consumer environmental protection ideas, Environmental-protecting elastic fabric oneself become existing Modern consumption is new to be guided, and by the analysis of like product and research, and consults related data, elastic fabric in the market is many Elastic effect is reached using a certain proportion of spandex of addition or Lycra, but adds the fabric of this kind of raw material with the time of wearing Extend be also easy to produce plastic deformation, the disadvantage such as elastic recovery is poor, spandex easily exposes.And a high proportion of Sorona elastic fiber plus Enter, overcome the drawbacks of spandex, Lycra fabric has splendid elasticity again, and because its raw material sources is in Semen Maydiss, advantage unique is Its recyclable, recycling property.The Product Green that produced, ecological, environmental protective.
But, Sorona fiber belongs to improved elastic terylene, and high-temperature dyeing is also easy to produce larger aberration, easily loses intrinsic bullet Property, and the easy red change of fabric Final finishing high-temperature shaping produced, low temperature can lead to poor dimensional stability again, and elastic elongation is not Enough, production difficulty is larger.
Content of the invention
The invention aims to providing a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric, there is soft glutinous smooth, elastic abundance Feature.
In order to realize the purpose of the present invention, employed technical scheme comprise that:
A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric is it is characterised in that include step:
1), dyeing process
Due to using 70 Australia's hairs, injury-free for protection fiber, it is easy to rear road and produces, therefore select environment-friendly type import Reactive dye for wool orchid receives plain red 6G, yellow 4G or black CE, and using low temperature dyeing, dyeing temperature controls at 85 DEG C, is incubated 55 points Clock.It is to reduce color flower simultaneously, improve chromatic light effect, and adopt import levelling agent Ah's BAIGE B, bath raio adopts 1:10;Save Water, electricity, vapour, production energy-saving, substantially reduce Enterprise Integrated production cost, improve spinning row yielding and yarn strength simultaneously, and then Improve feel and the style of fabric.
Sorona fiber carries out low temperature dyeing with disperse dyes, temperature retention time controls at 110 DEG C it is ensured that fiber color yield, Dyefastness and special elasticity.
During after backwashing, for ensure strip easily dry, easy grilling, after backwashing groove temperature control is in 65 DEG C of 1 groove, 2,3 40 DEG C of grooves, 4 grooves 55 DEG C, under after backwashing, machine wool top reaches refreshing, clean, suitable feel.Using the mixed comb of stamp wool top collocation adding 40%, color during mixed comb Pure, finished product face is clearly fine and smooth.
2), spinning process
During recombing, for reducing fibre damage, it is easy to combing, close setting is taken in each road, little drawing-off (B306 gauge 45mm, 6 times of drawing-offs), recombing ensures that fleece is straight, clearly, concrete measure:Control the feed quantity 50mm/ minute of profit, silver mixing When add 0.3%~1% environmental protection and crude oil agent, each procedure of front spinning all adopts small tension receiving coil, reducing the damage of fiber it is ensured that Spinning efficiency spinning process follows light feeding, little drawing-off, the principle of low speed:Spun yarn walks 7000 revs/min of compact spinning speed, winder 750 revs/min, tension pulley 100cN, Temperature and Humidity Control, 23 DEG C of temperature, humidity 75%, resultant yarn strand is uniformly bright and clean, and filoplume is few.
3), weaving process
Guarantee during warping that yarn path is smooth, piece yarn tension uniformly, prevents cloth cover to be produced from and hangs.Using compounding during beaming The cold slurry agent of macromolecule HG106 warp thread, wax, than control 8%, improves the wearability docile filoplume of yarn.
Using import Italy SMIT rapier loom, 320 ms/min of speed, tension force, in 230N-250N, reduces for weaving Misdraft, for ensureing fabric quality, for further adjustments on back rest opening on equipment, using isostension opening, (back rest water Flat 2 grades, vertical 313 degree of+2 tension force 280N heald level time), face lines is clearly fine and smooth, and grey quality is good.
Loom knitting technology:Upper machine weft density:194*194 root/10cm, upper gate width 183.5cm, porter 97#, fabric group Knit 1/1 plain weave.
Further, also include finishing process:
Open washing connection boil → dry inspection in fixed → braying → bis- boil singe → height washes → bis- boil → absorb water → dry → middle inspection → ripe Repair → roll soft → middle inspection → dewing → KD tank steaming → finished product
What this kind mainly projected is Comfortable elastic and softness, the fine and smooth feel meeting Human Physiology demand, dyeing and finishing Technique open washing connection of singing after walking boils strengthening process route (usual processing route is not walked open washing connection and boiled, and only walks double boiling), each road broadwise Small tension receiving coil prevents from destroying elastic elongation, the gloss of prominent fabric, soft.It is fixed to dry:160 DEG C of * 20m/min, middle overfeeding;Double Boil:80 DEG C * 30,1,3,4,6 pressurizations, 200ml HAC, decatizing:WPF 7# technique, turn around to stand up, (control stress point:Wet cloth is shaped, Strengthen wearability, pH value controls 6-7, decatizing naturalness is entered machine, is not added with tension force, and 120s room temperature decatizing twice, prevents head Tail aberration).
Improve crabbing temperature and carry out abundant pre-setting, reduce setting temperature prevention red change, not only ensure fabric dimensionally stable Property, and not complexion changed.Final finishing, through low-temperature shaped arrangement, makes fabric have superior elastic, splendid wrinkle resistance, comfortable Feel, pure color wearability excellent, added value of product is high.
Preferably, in the raw material using, containing 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 60~70%, Sorona fiber 30~40%.
For fiber properties, Sorona stock-dye adopts 110 DEG C of low temperature dyeings of hollow ball, so that dye molecule is fully permeated To fibrous inside, it is adsorbed onto fiber inner surface it is ensured that coloured light accurately, is fully unclogged and readjusted mixed with stamp wool top after Sorona stock-dye Close, make each component fibre mix homogeneously, pure color.
Final finishing workshop section mainly around complexion changed and elastic selection process route, for the easy red change of high-temperature shaping, Low-Temperature Size Stability difference does not reach elastic effect, takes each road broadwise small tension receiving coil, and open washing connection is singed to firing technique after singing after boiling again, boiled At 100 DEG C about, softening agent usage amount is reduced to 1% to temperature control, and setting temperature controls very regular at 160 ± 5 DEG C Reason process route, to ensure the pure and good wearability of fabric color.
The device have the advantages that:
This product is the new fabric of elastic environmental-protection type, and product is formed by Pilus Caprae seu Oviss/Sorona fiber blend, has the soft glutinous cunning of Pilus Caprae seu Oviss Feature refreshing, that elasticity is sufficient, and comfortable and easy to wear not tight.Due to the addition of Sorona fiber, both remained the original of raw material Characteristic, embodies the quality of Pilus Caprae seu Oviss again, improves flexibility and the skin-friendly of fabric, increased drapability and fabric sheen, gives The natural soft feel of fabric, replace spandex there is preferable stretching and elastic recovery, cold-proof comfort is dry and comfortable ventilative and resistance to Washing property is good, and pendency is crease-resistant environment friendly and pollution-free, is the preferable fabric making high-grade leisure clothing.
Because the characteristic of Sorona fiber gives the elasticity that this fabric meets Human Physiology demand, Sorona fiber in addition It is to generate PDO using the method for primverose fermentation, carry out section after adding TPA reaction and make, raw material sources are in renewable money Source rather than petrochemical material, not only energy saving but also ecological, environmental protective, meet ecological, green, environmental protection, the reproducible reason that the whole world is advocated Read, can significantly alleviate oil crisis.
Specific embodiment
With reference to embodiment, the invention will be further described, but protection scope of the present invention is not limited solely to implement Example.
From raw material parameter as follows,
Embodiment 1
A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric is it is characterised in that include step:
1), dyeing process
Pilus Caprae seu Oviss receive plain red 6G from environment-friendly type import reactive dye for wool orchid, and dyeing temperature controls at 80 DEG C, are incubated 55 points Clock;And adopt import levelling agent Ah's BAIGE B, bath raio adopts 1:10;
Sorona fiber carries out low temperature dyeing with disperse dyes, and holding temperature controls at 100~110 DEG C,
During after backwashing, for ensure strip easily dry, easy grilling, after backwashing groove temperature control in 65 DEG C of 1 groove, 2 grooves, 40 DEG C of 3 groove, 4 55 DEG C of groove, mixes using the mixed comb of stamp wool top collocation adding 40% during comb,
2), spinning process
During recombing, close setting is taken in each road, little drawing-off (B306 gauge 45mm, 6 times of drawing-offs), and recombing ensures Fleece is straight, clearly, concrete measure:Control the feed quantity 50mm/ minute of profit, during silver mixing, add 0.3% environmental protection and crude oil Agent, each procedure of front spinning all adopts small tension receiving coil, to reduce the damage of fiber it is ensured that spinning efficiency spinning process follows light feeding, Little drawing-off, the principle of low speed:Spun yarn walks 7000 revs/min of compact spinning speed, 750 revs/min of winder, tension pulley 100cN, humiture Control, 23 DEG C of temperature, humidity 75%,
3), weaving process
Using the compounding cold slurry agent of macromolecule HG106 warp thread during beaming, wax than control 5%,
Using import Italy SMIT rapier loom, 320 ms/min of speed, tension force, in 230N, reduces unexpected leading for weaving Stretch, for ensureing fabric quality, for further adjustments on back rest opening on equipment, using isostension opening, (horizontal 2 grades of the back rest, Vertically 313 degree of+2 tension force 280N heald level time).
Loom knitting technology:Upper machine weft density:194*194 root/10cm, upper gate width 183.5cm, porter 97#, fabric group Knit 1/1 plain weave.
Finishing process:
Open washing connection boil → dry inspection in fixed → braying → bis- boil singe → height washes → bis- boil → absorb water → dry → middle inspection → ripe Repair → roll soft → middle inspection → dewing → KD tank steaming → finished product
It is fixed to dry:160 DEG C, 20m/min, middle overfeeding;Double boil:80 DEG C * 30,1,3,4,6 pressurizations, 200ml HAC, decatizing:WPF 7# technique, turn around to stand up, (control stress point:Wet cloth is shaped, and strengthens wearability, and pH value controls 6-7, and decatizing naturalness enters machine, It is not added with tension force, 120s room temperature decatizing twice, prevents head tail aberration).
In the raw material using, containing 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 60%, Sorona fiber 40%.
Embodiment 2
A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric is it is characterised in that include step:
1), dyeing process
Pilus Caprae seu Oviss select environment-friendly type import reactive dye for wool Huang 4G, and dyeing temperature controls at 85 DEG C, is incubated 60 minutes;And Using import levelling agent Ah's BAIGE B, bath raio adopts 1:20;
Sorona fiber carries out low temperature dyeing with disperse dyes, and holding temperature controls at 110 DEG C,
During after backwashing, for ensure strip easily dry, easy grilling, after backwashing groove temperature control in 65 DEG C of 1 groove, 2 grooves, 40 DEG C of 3 groove, 4 55 DEG C of groove, mixes using the mixed comb of stamp wool top collocation adding 50% during comb,
2), spinning process
During recombing, close setting is taken in each road, little drawing-off (B306 gauge 45mm, 6 times of drawing-offs), and recombing ensures Fleece is straight, clearly, concrete measure:Control the feed quantity 50mm/ minute of profit, during silver mixing, add 0.6% environmental protection and crude oil Agent, each procedure of front spinning all adopts small tension receiving coil, to reduce the damage of fiber it is ensured that spinning efficiency spinning process follows light feeding, Little drawing-off, the principle of low speed:Spun yarn walks 7000 revs/min of compact spinning speed, 750 revs/min of winder, tension pulley 120cN, humiture Control, 23 DEG C of temperature, humidity 75%,
3), weaving process
Using the compounding cold slurry agent of macromolecule HG106 warp thread during beaming, wax than control 10%,
Using import Italy SMIT rapier loom, 320 ms/min of speed, tension force, in 250N, reduces unexpected leading for weaving Stretch, for ensureing fabric quality, for further adjustments on back rest opening on equipment, using isostension opening, (horizontal 2 grades of the back rest, Vertically 313 degree of+2 tension force 280N heald level time).
Loom knitting technology:Upper machine weft density:194*194 root/10cm, upper gate width 183.5cm, porter 97#, fabric group Knit 1/1 plain weave.
Finishing process:
Open washing connection boil → dry inspection in fixed → braying → bis- boil singe → height washes → bis- boil → absorb water → dry → middle inspection → ripe Repair → roll soft → middle inspection → dewing → KD tank steaming → finished product
It is fixed to dry:160 DEG C, 20m/min, middle overfeeding;Double boil:80 DEG C * 30,1,3,4,6 pressurizations, 200ml HAC, decatizing:WPF 7# technique, turn around to stand up.(control stress point:Wet cloth is shaped, and strengthens wearability, and pH value controls 6-7, and decatizing naturalness enters machine, It is not added with tension force, 120s room temperature decatizing twice, prevents head tail aberration).
In the raw material using, containing 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 670%, Sorona fiber 30%.
Embodiment 3
A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric is it is characterised in that include step:
1), dyeing process
Pilus Caprae seu Oviss select the black CE of environment-friendly type import reactive dye for wool, and dyeing temperature controls at 82 DEG C, are incubated 58 minutes;And Using import levelling agent Ah's BAIGE B, bath raio adopts 1:15;
Sorona fiber carries out low temperature dyeing with disperse dyes, and holding temperature controls at 105 DEG C,
During after backwashing, for ensure strip easily dry, easy grilling, after backwashing groove temperature control in 65 DEG C of 1 groove, 2 grooves, 40 DEG C of 3 groove, 4 55 DEG C of groove, mixes using the mixed comb of stamp wool top collocation adding 45% during comb,
2), spinning process
During recombing, close setting is taken in each road, little drawing-off (B306 gauge 45mm, 6 times of drawing-offs), and recombing ensures Fleece is straight, clearly, concrete measure:Control the feed quantity 50mm/ minute of profit, during silver mixing, add 1% environmental protection and crude oil agent, The each procedure of front spinning all adopts small tension receiving coil, to reduce the damage of fiber it is ensured that spinning efficiency spinning process follows light feeding, little lead Stretch, the principle of low speed:Spun yarn walks 7000 revs/min of compact spinning speed, 750 revs/min of winder, tension pulley 100cN, humiture control System, 23 DEG C of temperature, humidity 75%,
3), weaving process
Using the compounding cold slurry agent of macromolecule HG106 warp thread during beaming, wax than control 5~10%,
Using import Italy SMIT rapier loom, 320 ms/min of speed, tension force, in 230N-250N, reduces for weaving Misdraft, for ensureing fabric quality, for further adjustments on back rest opening on equipment, using isostension opening, (back rest water Flat 2 grades, vertical 313 degree of+2 tension force 280N heald level time).
Loom knitting technology:Upper machine weft density:194*194 root/10cm, upper gate width 183.5cm, porter 97#, fabric group Knit 1/1 plain weave.
Finishing process:
Open washing connection boil → dry inspection in fixed → braying → bis- boil singe → height washes → bis- boil → absorb water → dry → middle inspection → ripe Repair → roll soft → middle inspection → dewing → KD tank steaming → finished product
It is fixed to dry:160 DEG C, 20m/min, middle overfeeding;Double boil:80 DEG C * 30,1,3,4,6 pressurizations, 200ml HAC, decatizing:WPF 7# technique, turn around to stand up.(control stress point:Wet cloth is shaped, and strengthens wearability, and pH value controls 6-7, and decatizing naturalness enters machine, It is not added with tension force, 120s room temperature decatizing twice, prevents head tail aberration).
In the raw material using, containing 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 65%, Sorona fiber 35%.
According to standard GB/T/T 26382-2011, being detected, testing result is as follows to prepared fabric:
A. broadwise elastic extension:24%;
B. dry and wet crock fastness:≥4;
C. static size changing rate:≥-0.7;
D. colour fastness to perspiration:4-5 level.
From test result, the indices of product meet GB/T 26382-2011 country examination criteria.
Finally it should be noted that:Above example only not limits technology described in the invention in order to the present invention to be described Scheme;Therefore, although this specification with reference to each above-mentioned embodiment to present invention has been detailed description, this Field it is to be appreciated by one skilled in the art that still the present invention can be modified or equivalent;And all are without departing from this The technical scheme of spirit and scope of invention and its improvement, it all should be covered in scope of the presently claimed invention.

Claims (3)

1. a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric is it is characterised in that include step:
1), dyeing process
Pilus Caprae seu Oviss receive plain red 6G, yellow 4G or black CE from environment-friendly type import reactive dye for wool orchid, and dyeing temperature controls 80~ 85 DEG C, it is incubated 55~60 minutes;And adopt import levelling agent Ah's BAIGE B, bath raio adopts 1:10~1:20;
Sorona fiber carries out low temperature dyeing with disperse dyes, and holding temperature controls at 100~110 DEG C,
During after backwashing, for ensure strip easily dry, easy grilling, after backwashing groove temperature control is in 65 DEG C of 1 groove, 2 grooves, 40 DEG C of 3 groove, 4 grooves 55 DEG C, mix the stamp wool top collocation mixed comb using addition 40%~50% during comb,
2), spinning process
During recombing, B306 gauge 45mm, 6 times of drawing-offs are taken in each road, and recombing ensures that fleece is straight, clearly, specifically Measure:Control the feed quantity 50mm/ minute of profit, during silver mixing, add 0.3%~1% environmental protection and crude oil agent, each procedure of front spinning In, spun yarn walks 7000 revs/min of compact spinning speed, 750 revs/min of winder, tension pulley 100~120cN, Temperature and Humidity Control, temperature 23 DEG C, humidity 75%,
3), weaving process
Using the compounding cold slurry agent of macromolecule HG106 warp thread during beaming, wax than control 5~10%,
Using import Italy SMIT rapier loom, 320 ms/min of speed, tension force, in 230N-250N, reduces unexpected for weaving Drawing-off, for ensureing fabric quality, for further adjustments on back rest opening on equipment, using isostension opening, the back rest horizontal 2 Shelves, vertical+2, tension force 280N, 313 degree of heald level time,
Loom knitting technology:Upper machine weft density:194*194 root/10cm, upper gate width 183.5cm, porter 97#, fabric tissue 1/ 1 plain weave.
2. a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that also include finishing process:
Open washing connection boil → dry inspection in fixed → braying → bis- boil singe → height washes → bis- boil → absorb water → dry → middle inspection → ripe repair → Roll soft → middle inspection → dewing → KD tank steaming → finished product
It is fixed to dry:160 DEG C, 20m/min, middle overfeeding;Double boil:80 DEG C * 30,1,3,4,6 pressurizations, 200ml HAC, decatizing:PH value control 6-7 processed, decatizing naturalness enters machine, is not added with tension force, and 120s room temperature decatizing twice, prevents head tail aberration.
3. a kind of preparation method of elastic fabric according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that in the raw material using, contain There are 70S Pilus Caprae seu Oviss 60~70%, Sorona fiber 30~40%.
CN201510684256.3A 2015-10-21 2015-10-21 A kind of preparation method of elastic fabric CN105200621B (en)

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CN109423742A (en) * 2017-08-30 2019-03-05 浙江吉麻良丝新材料股份有限公司 A kind of preparation method of Sorona/ flax fiber blending fabric
CN107447320A (en) * 2017-09-23 2017-12-08 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 A kind of machine washable velvet apple machine knitting yarn and its production technology
CN107630285A (en) * 2017-09-30 2018-01-26 宿迁市神龙家纺有限公司 A kind of high-elastic woollen blanket of antibiotic health care type and its production technology
CN109355750A (en) * 2018-09-05 2019-02-19 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 A kind of preparation method of the wool blended machine knitting yarn of Suo Luona
CN109295594A (en) * 2018-09-24 2019-02-01 海宁市晶森经编有限公司 A kind of preparation process of elastic fabric

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CN102797104B (en) * 2012-08-01 2014-04-30 劲霸男装(上海)有限公司 Processing method of Sorona and silk clothes fabric
CN103835048B (en) * 2012-11-27 2015-06-03 山东沃源新型面料股份有限公司 Low-wool-content multi-component chemical fiber blended fabric
CN103031637B (en) * 2013-01-11 2015-03-25 劲霸男装(上海)有限公司 Sorona/wool semi-worsted spinning yarn as well as manufacturing process thereof and application thereof
CN103469436A (en) * 2013-09-24 2013-12-25 昆山市周市镇吉盛服装厂 Preparation method for elastic force weaving shell fabric

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