CN201952573U - Cotton tencel spun silk blending high-countwcol heavy-twist jacquard fabric - Google Patents

Cotton tencel spun silk blending high-countwcol heavy-twist jacquard fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN201952573U
CN201952573U CN2010206448254U CN201020644825U CN201952573U CN 201952573 U CN201952573 U CN 201952573U CN 2010206448254 U CN2010206448254 U CN 2010206448254U CN 201020644825 U CN201020644825 U CN 201020644825U CN 201952573 U CN201952573 U CN 201952573U
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
fabric
cotton
silk
heavy
jacquard
Prior art date
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CN2010206448254U
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
葛晓华
王淑华
王美兰
丁学勤
李晓洁
赵增芬
苏跃全
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天津天纺投资控股有限公司
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Priority to CN2010206448254U priority Critical patent/CN201952573U/en
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Publication of CN201952573U publication Critical patent/CN201952573U/en

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Abstract

The utility model relates to a cotton tencel spun silk blending high-countwcol heavy-twist jacquard fabric, wherein the weave structure of the fabric is plain mini jacquard, warp yarns are 28 pieces every cycle, weft yarns are 20 pieces every cycle, fabric warp density is 352 pieces per 10 cm, and weft density is 348 pieces per 10 cm. The cotton tencel spun silk blending high-countwcol heavy-twist jacquard fabric has advantages in that: the fabric has a soft and smooth handfeel and a light and thin quality, and is comfortable and airpermeable; the characteristics of the tencel and spun silk endow the fabric magnificent appearance with flamboyant luster; high-grade long stapled cotton ensures dimension stability of the fabric; and the jacquard and heavy-twist process design allows the fabric more abundant, morbidezza, noble and elegant; thereby being suitable to manufacture high-grade female fashionable dress, and having a wide market prospect.

Description

A kind of cotton day high heavy twist jacquard fabric of tiffany silk blend
(1) technical field
The utility model relates to a kind of fabric of field of textiles, particularly relates to the structure of a kind of cotton day high heavy twist jacquard fabric of tiffany silk blend.
(2) background technology
The silk quilt is a kind of symbol of Chinese culture titled with " fiber queen ", has the incomparable advantage of many other textile fabrics.But, also there are simultaneously many unfavorable factors that influence silk consumption, easily give birth to wrinkle as some of silk product itself, inhale body, solid, shortcoming such as fade comparatively fast inadequately easily; And because market price is higher, Application Areas is restricted, and has also influenced the development of clothes.Therefore, in order to bring into play cotton spinning lining price advantage, my company passes through preferred and approaching good novel environment friendly fiber and the cotton fiber blending of silk fiber performance, the choose reasonable fibre furnish is maximized favourable factors and minimized unfavourable ones, and brings into play the advantage of various fibers, and on the basis of analyzing following silk development of demand trend, by meticulous product design, the various technology means of lappingout, the purpose of the imitative silk of realization short-staple lining.And at present, this type of imitative silk fabrics, the imitative silk fabrics that particularly has frivolous effect is also rare.
(3) summary of the invention
In order to overcome the weak point of prior art and equipment, the utility model provides a kind of cotton day high heavy twist jacquard fabric of tiffany silk blend.
The technical solution of the utility model is to realize like this.
The high heavy twist jacquard fabric of cotton day tiffany silk blend of this programme, the fabric structure of this lining is a plain weave ground small jacquard, 28 of the every circulations of warp thread, 20 of the every circulations of weft yarn, fabric through close be 352/10cm, filling density is 348/10cm.
The warp thread of this fabric is 50/35/15JC/LY/JS7.3tex, and weft yarn is JC/LY/JS7.3tex (1600 a sth. made by twisting/rice).
Usefulness of the present utility model is: this lining is soft, sliding glutinous, quality is frivolous, comfortable ventilating, the characteristic of it silk, spun silk gives fabric magnificent outward appearance, beautiful gloss, and high-grade long-staple cotton guarantees the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of lining, it is soft and graceful that jacquard weave and heavy twist technological design are enriched lining more, noble elegant, be suitable for making high-grade women's fashionable dress, market prospects are wide.
(4) description of drawings
Accompanying drawing is the organization chart of the cotton day high heavy twist jacquard fabric of tiffany silk blend of this programme.
(5) specific embodiment
The invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiment.
One, product style determines
By adopting cotton fiber and other fiber blend, reach the softness of silk, smooth feel and beautiful gloss, lining will have certain degree of dangling, and frivolous ventilative, is applicable to woman's fashion material in summer.In order to break through the single characteristics of existing silk fabrics flower type, adopt plain weave ground small jacquard tissue, fine and smooth little decorative pattern increases the novelty and the product texture of lining.
Two, the selection of raw material:
Cotton: selecting 100% long-staple cotton for use is the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY that main fibre can guarantee lining, and long-staple cotton fiber also has good gloss, smooth feel and sucting wet air permeability, and is applicable to high yarn count design.
It silk: a day silk is the novel environment friendly material of relatively approving in recent years.Its sericeous gloss, soft feel and good drapability are used wider in simulate wool, imitative silk face fabric.Selecting for use of it silk can be improved the effect of imitating silk, and its cost is compared also reduction much with silk fabric.
Spun silk: spun silk belongs to natural protein fibre, and good water imbibition is arranged, and is soft, comfortable, and skin is had health-care function, have the good reputation of " fiber queen ", is called " artificial skin ".But its poor flexibility, it is poor to wash the natural restore funcitons in back.Selecting for use of spun silk can increase the glutinous feel of cunning of lining and close naturally skin effect, but the consumption excessive cost can increase considerably, and poor dimensional stability.
By analysis, determine the blending ratio design based on cotton fiber, blending ratio is designed to: cotton/sky silk/spun silk is 50/35/15, and the adding of day silk and spun silk increases gloss and the soft feel and the comfortableness of lining.Replace spun silk can guarantee that cost reduces, and can guarantee the silk quality style again with a part day silk.
Three, fabric specification and institutional framework design
In order to reach merrily and lightheartedly elegant as the silk, yarn count is designed to a high 7.3tex single thread longitude and latitude and weaves, because tissue is selected plain weave ground small jacquard for use, guarantee epicritic sensibility, thread count design is close, the grammes per square metre design 50 grams/square metre about, be the glutinous feel of cunning that increases lining, weft yarn has adopted the heavy twist design, increase the sense of dangling of lining, last specifications design is: warp thread 50/35/15JC/LY/JS7.3tex, weft yarn JC/LY/JS7.3tex (1600 sth. made by twisting/rice), through close be 352/10cm, filling density is 348/10cm, and fabric width 140cm, fabric structure are plain weave ground small jacquard, 28 of the every circulations of warp thread, 20 of the every circulations of weft yarn.
Four, the difficult point of technology and assurance
In order to bring into play each fibre property, to realize having complementary advantages, the fiber that adopts three kinds of performances to differ bigger carries out blending, and is bigger to spinning and sizing and dyeing process technical difficulty.
Be softness, lightweight, the elegant style that reaches silk, high yarn count design, bigger to polynary blended yarn technical difficulty, and each explained hereafter link all will be noted the assurance to brute force.
1, main point of production technology
(1), raw material condition
The raw cotton technical indicator:
The spun silk strip:
Fibre length 38mm Dry weight g/5m 9.55 Cotton knot 40/gram
(2), spinning process route and process parameters design principle
1. day silk belongs to cellulose fibre, do not have impurity, straightening of fibers degree better, but cohesive force is poor, so blowing is selected short flow process for use, technological principle be many pines lack beat, low velocity, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning is taked high cutter, is spaced greatly, the technological principle of small tension receiving coil.
2. silk/silk blending yarn in cotton/sky is that three kinds of fibers of different nature mix, for guaranteeing to mix, improve the straightening of fibers depth of parallelism, drafting is taked to give also, the process route of three road draftings, simultaneously for guaranteeing the semi-products quality, the extreme trace drafting is selected on the FA322 type, has made full use of the superior function of this machine autoleveller.
3. silk flock static is big, is prone to the sticking phenomenon that twines aborning, and handle through antistatic on drafting roller surface for this reason, has solved the wounded in the battle problem of roller.
4. because silk flock is relatively more sliding suitable, this kind sky silk, spun silk ratio have accounted for 50%, fibre cohesion is poor in the sliver, for solving rove easy phenomenon of broken end when the spun yarn unwinding, under the prerequisite that does not influence spinning-drafting, all grasps bigger than normal on the basis of the normal twist of roving twist design, roving twist 5.1/10cm, twist factor 93, reduce rove bar stretch disconnected.
5. cotton/sky silk/silk blending yarn, fibre length is long, regularity good, so spun yarn is taked to space greatly, the technology thinking of back zone high draft, do situation about worsening for reducing yarn bar behind winder, winder is taked the technological principle of low velocity, small tension receiving coil, groove drum speed 600m/m, less tension force have reduced the friction of path to yarn.
(3), semi-products quality
The slubbing drafting Two roads Extreme trace Rove
Weight CV% 0.83 0.77 0.52 0.91
Bar is done CV% 3.84 2.95 2.32 4.04
(4), end product quality level:
Warp thread 50/35/15JC/LY/JS7.3tex
Weft yarn 50/35/15JC/LY/JS7.3tex (1600 sth. made by twisting/rice)
Spin the process from examination, semi-manufactured goods quality and end product quality are more stable, but it is higher to influence formation yarn nep owing to outsourcing spun silk bar cotton knot is higher, if improve outsourcing spun silk bar quality, become quality to be improved at all.
(5), weaving technology key point
Cotton day tiffany silk blend yarn, more common 80 cotton yarn details, slubbing, cotton knot are higher, need the size of control rate and tension force when warping, to reduce warp end break, guarantee that warping carries out smoothly; It is crucial that the sizing operation is selected formula of size, process route and method of operating, and yarn strength reduces the regeneration filoplume and yarn is sticking and the strand phenomenon to increase, and improves slurry axoplasm amount, avoids influencing because of opening is unclear normal wefting insertion; The selection no less important of kind weaving process must make the clear wefting insertion that is beneficial to of opening.
(6), test weaving situation and quality control
What this test weaving was used is from spinning, and from the yarn index, details, slubbing, cotton knot are seriously more higher than normal JC80 yarn, and ultimate strength is on the low side, and ten myriametre yarn defects are higher.
According to raw yarn index situation, select golden plan warping machines warping for use, join a 628*9, speed of a motor vehicle 300m/min, warping tension force 3g, warping is smooth substantially, and ten myriametre end breakage rates are 0.
Sizing is selected low mucilage material for use to strengthen, to paste the volt filoplume, to protect moisture regain, and formula of size is as follows:
Project TSF-3 TSF-8 PVA SQ-I Hygroscopic agent
Ratio (%) 100 50 50 12 2
Quantity (kg) 50 25 25 6 1
Slurries operating position: slurry pot 95 ℃/12 seconds..Adopt the soaking paste form of double-clip-double-nip during running, route is that single stock tank is not stratified, speed 40-45 rice/minute, actual destarch rate 14.8%, regain 6.1%, index is more satisfactory.It is normal substantially to turn round.
Kind is at the 710-190 of Toyota type dobby machine looming weaving, and process speed 650rpm/min mainly solves the cracked ends problem. and cracked ends embodies a concentrated expression of on 3.4 warp thread, after adjusting, the 29.7m that weaves cotton cloth, 65.7%, stop over 3, latitude stop 113 times.Technology on the machine: back rest 0*5, warp stop frame 0*0,300 ° of opening times, are combined high 12:143mm, 34:146mm, 5-8:138mm, opening traverse 1-4:115-100mm, 5:100mm, 6-8:130-135mm, tension force 130kg, pad 4mm, T by steadily 6-300 ° 0-T W: 90 °-230 °.Through adjusting, use the smaller opening amount, reduced warp end break, but, caused short latitude to stop the platform height because the cotton knot of former yarn and filoplume are hung weft yarn.If improve outsourcing spun silk bar quality, reduce Yarn filoplume and cotton knot, can avoid this problem, guarantee woven smooth.
(7), dyeing and finishing technology flow process: grey cloth is prepared, is singed, refining is floated in enzyme desizing, enzyme, the dyeing of loose formula, soft, check, packing.
(8), dyeing and finishing technology technical essential
Because cotton, a day silk is a cellulose fibre, alkaline-resisting not acidproof, spun silk is a protein fibre, and is acidproof not alkaline-resisting, therefore in the arrangement process, process conditions had specific (special) requirements.Product can not mercerising, and adopts biology enzyme to carry out destarch and boiling-off.With Dyeing of Cotton Fabric with Reactive Dyes/sky silk, silk blending fabric, usually the shortcoming that has the inconsistent problem of dye-uptake, BLENDED FABRIC homochromatism difference. by to each process conditions that dye, research as pH value, salt, alkali number and temperature etc., improve the approach of this blended fabric dyeing homochromatism, promptly cotton/sky silk, silk blending fabric are used reactive dyeing under acid condition, fixation under the alkali condition. reduction, the glauber salt consumption with dye liquor pH value increases, the soda ash consumption reduces and the raising of holding temperature, and interfibrous homochromatism turns for the better.

Claims (1)

1. high heavy twist jacquard fabric of cotton day tiffany silk blend, it is characterized in that: the fabric structure of this lining is a plain weave ground small jacquard, 28 of the every circulations of warp thread, 20 of the every circulations of weft yarn, fabric through close be 352/10cm, filling density is 348/10cm.
CN2010206448254U 2010-12-07 2010-12-07 Cotton tencel spun silk blending high-countwcol heavy-twist jacquard fabric CN201952573U (en)

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Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103361846A (en) * 2013-08-07 2013-10-23 吴江市旭阳纺织有限公司 Breathable fabric knitted by warps and wefts
CN103643383A (en) * 2013-12-10 2014-03-19 苏州联优织造有限公司 Large jacquard fabric manufactured by solvent spinning cellulosic fiber blended yarns
CN104005149A (en) * 2014-06-25 2014-08-27 南通长亚纺织科技有限公司 Moisture absorption anti-wrinkle fabric and processing technology thereof
CN104233600A (en) * 2014-10-16 2014-12-24 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Single-sided jacquard fabric formed by 38% of Lyocell fiber, 30% of filature silk, 18% of cotton and 14% of spun silk and preparation method
CN104233598A (en) * 2014-10-16 2014-12-24 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Single-sided inlaid fabric formed by 38% of Lyocell fiber, 38% of cotton, 14% of spun silk and 10% of real silk and preparation method
CN104233602A (en) * 2014-10-16 2014-12-24 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Single-sided jacquard fabric formed by 35% of Lyocell fiber, 26% of cotton, 25% of real silk and 14% of spun silk and preparation method
CN104264357A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-01-07 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 55% Lyocell fiber, 25% cotton and 20% spun silk single-sided jacquard fabrics and production method thereof
CN104328567A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-04 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Single-faced large jacquard fabric comprising 35 percent of Lyocell fiber, 30 percent of nylon, 20 percent of cotton and 15 percent of spun silk and preparation method thereof
CN104328566A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-04 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Single-faced large jacquard fabric comprising 35 percent of Lyocell fiber, 30 percent of nylon, 20 percent of cotton and 15 percent of spun silk and preparation method thereof
CN104358005A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-18 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Large single-sided jacquard fabric made of 35 percent of lyocell fiber, 30 percent of real silk, 20 percent of cotton and 15 percent of spun silk and preparation method
CN104372494A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-25 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Two-sided jacquard fabric made of 50 percent of spun silk, 30 percent of real silk and 20 percent of cotton and manufacturing method
CN104372490A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-25 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Two-sided jacquard fabric made of 50 percent of mercerized cotton, 35 percent of cotton and 15 percent of real silk and manufacturing method

Cited By (17)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103361846A (en) * 2013-08-07 2013-10-23 吴江市旭阳纺织有限公司 Breathable fabric knitted by warps and wefts
CN103643383A (en) * 2013-12-10 2014-03-19 苏州联优织造有限公司 Large jacquard fabric manufactured by solvent spinning cellulosic fiber blended yarns
CN104005149A (en) * 2014-06-25 2014-08-27 南通长亚纺织科技有限公司 Moisture absorption anti-wrinkle fabric and processing technology thereof
CN104328566A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-04 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Single-faced large jacquard fabric comprising 35 percent of Lyocell fiber, 30 percent of nylon, 20 percent of cotton and 15 percent of spun silk and preparation method thereof
CN104233598A (en) * 2014-10-16 2014-12-24 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Single-sided inlaid fabric formed by 38% of Lyocell fiber, 38% of cotton, 14% of spun silk and 10% of real silk and preparation method
CN104233602A (en) * 2014-10-16 2014-12-24 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Single-sided jacquard fabric formed by 35% of Lyocell fiber, 26% of cotton, 25% of real silk and 14% of spun silk and preparation method
CN104264357A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-01-07 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 55% Lyocell fiber, 25% cotton and 20% spun silk single-sided jacquard fabrics and production method thereof
CN104328567A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-04 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Single-faced large jacquard fabric comprising 35 percent of Lyocell fiber, 30 percent of nylon, 20 percent of cotton and 15 percent of spun silk and preparation method thereof
CN104233600A (en) * 2014-10-16 2014-12-24 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Single-sided jacquard fabric formed by 38% of Lyocell fiber, 30% of filature silk, 18% of cotton and 14% of spun silk and preparation method
CN104358005A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-18 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Large single-sided jacquard fabric made of 35 percent of lyocell fiber, 30 percent of real silk, 20 percent of cotton and 15 percent of spun silk and preparation method
CN104372494A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-25 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Two-sided jacquard fabric made of 50 percent of spun silk, 30 percent of real silk and 20 percent of cotton and manufacturing method
CN104372490A (en) * 2014-10-16 2015-02-25 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 Two-sided jacquard fabric made of 50 percent of mercerized cotton, 35 percent of cotton and 15 percent of real silk and manufacturing method
CN104372490B (en) * 2014-10-16 2016-05-11 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 The 50% mercerized cotton 35% two-sided large tmaterial of cotton 15% real silk and preparation method
CN104328566B (en) * 2014-10-16 2016-05-11 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 The 35% Lyocell fibers 30% polyamide fibre 20% large tmaterial of cotton 15% spun silk one side and preparation method
CN104328567B (en) * 2014-10-16 2016-05-11 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 The 35% Lyocell fibers 30% polyamide fibre 20% large tmaterial of cotton 15% spun silk one side and preparation method
CN104372494B (en) * 2014-10-16 2016-05-11 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 The 50% spun silk cotton two-sided large tmaterial of 30% real silk 20% and preparation method
CN104358005B (en) * 2014-10-16 2016-07-06 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 The cotton 15% big tmaterial of spun silk one side and the preparation method of 35% Lyocell fibers 30% real silk 20%

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Granted publication date: 20110831

Termination date: 20111207