CN109082768A - A kind of terylene warp knit plain color fabric and its production method - Google Patents

A kind of terylene warp knit plain color fabric and its production method Download PDF

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Publication number
CN109082768A
CN109082768A CN201811255044.3A CN201811255044A CN109082768A CN 109082768 A CN109082768 A CN 109082768A CN 201811255044 A CN201811255044 A CN 201811255044A CN 109082768 A CN109082768 A CN 109082768A
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China
Prior art keywords
fabric
dyeing
yarn
comb
machine
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CN201811255044.3A
Other languages
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
王思捷
张贵
谢香娇
胡保红
杨浚华
邱利红
康小战
李成炳
陈军
付永津
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互太(番禺)纺织印染有限公司
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Priority to CN201811255044.3A priority Critical patent/CN109082768A/en
Publication of CN109082768A publication Critical patent/CN109082768A/en

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B17/00—Selection of special materials for underwear
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/28—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics propelled by, or with the aid of, jets of the treating material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B2500/00—Materials for underwear, baby linen or handkerchiefs
    • A41B2500/10—Knitted
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Abstract

The present invention provides a kind of terylene warp knit plain color fabric and its production methods, the fabric is by making raw material for preferred terylene collocation processed filament and raw silk rings, using through oblique pillar stitch's structure, preceding comb GB1 carries out the movement of chaining band yarn, comb GB2 move through taper liner yarn afterwards, optimized production process, adjust sley bar number, yarn configuration, mode of entrying and the band yarn characteristics of motion, each each condition of step is synergistic, strict control process parameter, it is good that final production obtains stability, elongation is low, the moderate warp knit plain color fabric of elasticity, it has broad application prospects and huge market value.

Description

A kind of terylene warp knit plain color fabric and its production method

Technical field

The present invention relates to textile technology field more particularly to a kind of terylene warp knit plain color fabric and its production methods.

Background technique

Traditional shirt especially business shirt, basic demand stiffness and shape-retaining ability are good, and therefore, shuttle-woven fabric is most preferably to select It selects, especially pure cotton shuttle-woven fabric, still occupies the biggish market share because soft, comfortable and easy to wear.But it is worn and washes During washing, it is easy corrugation, nonelastic to have sense of restraint, this is also a defect of shuttle-woven fabric fabric construction.And knitted fabric Structure is mutually to go here and there yarn bends lopping using knitting needle to cover, and rich in ductility, knitted shirt starts to be favored.Weft knitting Knitted shirt is soft, personal, and comfortable and easy to wear, movable but stiffness, dimensional stability are poorer than tatting shirt freely, therefore in shirt Application on fabric is restricted.And knitted fabric structure is relatively stable, elasticity is moderate, and the easy wrinkle of shuttle-woven fabric can be overcome to lack Point, and have the advantages that be knitted the soft comfortable of fabric, stretching, extension freely, therefore warp knit shirt fabric more meets high-grade shirt of new generation The trend of fabric.

Terylene warp-knitted face fabric is to be weaved with the low-elasticity terylene fibre of same Denier, or make raw material friendship with the low stretch yarn of different deniers Knit, common tissue be warp plain stitch with through suede tissue combine through velveteen tissue, fabric is formed through dyeing process again Plain color fabric, pattern have the hidden item of plain color, hidden lattice, the bright item of plain color, bright lattice, and plain color is secretly colored, bright to be spent, and the cloth cover of this fabric is flat Very, bright in colour, it is divided into thicker, medium-thick type and slim.Slim is mainly used as shirt, skirt fabric；Medium-thick type, thicker It then can be used as the fabrics such as men and women's overcoat, wind coat, upper dress, suit, trousers.

CN101736508A discloses a kind of processing method of warp knitting ultra-soft grid knitted polyester fabric, comprising the following steps: Raw material selection and warping, choose surface layer tissue raw material and bottom layer tissue raw material, and to the raw material in selected face, bottom layer tissue Warping is carried out respectively；Weaving, to selection and the raw material in face, bottom layer tissue after warping weaved by tricot machine warp knit, obtain Fabric；Dyeing, to piece dyeing finishing, obtains dyed gray；Final finishing obtains warp knitting ultra-soft grid knitted dyed gray final finishing Polyester fabric.CN103859664B discloses a kind of super imitative cotton/fine-denier conduct wet polyester comfort type mercerising suede warp-knitted face fabric processing work Skill, including super imitative cotton fiber technique, fine-denier lead it is wet plus play polyester filament texturing craft, warping technology, warp-knitted face fabric weaving process, Warp-knitted face fabric dyeing and warp-knitted face fabric finishing technique.The invention uses fine denier polyester and super imitative cotton fibre with wet guiding function Dimension yarn interweaves, and utilizes the high machine tricot machine weaving of import TM2 series and the hydrophilic soft finish of organic silicon modified by polyether finishing agent Etc. processes successfully develop the excellent super imitative cotton of wearability/fine-denier conduct wet polyester comfort type mercerising suede warp-knitted face fabric. CN103243473B discloses a kind of production method of patterned polyester yarn warp knitting fabric, successively the following steps are included: ingredient inspection, whole Through, looming weaving, preshrunk cropping, dyeing, sizing and inspection, it is characterised in that: woven using four sley bars, the first sley bar, which is completely worn, to be washed Synthetic fibre long filament, using spininess warp plain stitch；Second sley bar completely wears polyester filament, using warp plain stitch；Third sley bar 1 wears 5 empty polyamide fibres The twisting silk of monofilament and filamentary silver, using variation inlaid thread tissue；4th sley bar completely wears spandex thread, using warp plain stitch.Institute of the present invention The facing material design and colour for stating method production is abundant, wear-resisting through good with, covering property.But the fabric stability of the above-mentioned prior art is bad, resists Wrinkle property is poor, and complex production process is complicated, needs to be further increased.

In conclusion researching and developing, a kind of stability is good, and elongation is low, the moderate terylene warp-knitted face fabric of elasticity, for making height Shelves shirt, has broad application prospects and huge market value.

Summary of the invention

In view of the deficiencies of the prior art and actual demand, the present invention provides a kind of terylene warp knit plain color fabric and its preparation Method, the fabric make raw material by preferred terylene collocation processed filament and raw silk rings, and optimized production process adjusts sley bar number, yarn It configures, mode of entrying and the band yarn characteristics of motion, each each condition synergy of step, strict control process parameter finally obtain steady Qualitative good, elongation is low, and the moderate quick-drying shell fabric of elasticity has broad application prospects and huge market value.

To achieve this purpose, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme:

In a first aspect, the present invention provides a kind of terylene warp knit plain color fabric, the fabric is with PET FDY and PET DTY Raw material is woven by the preceding comb GB1 and rear comb GB2 of single needle bar warp knitting machine；Wherein, preceding comb GB1 carries out the movement of chaining band yarn, Comb GB2 move through taper liner yarn afterwards, weaves to obtain using through oblique pillar stitch's structure.

In the present invention, inventor, to research and develop a kind of function admirable, stablizes the plain color face of rapid-curing cutback again in long term production Material, process flow of concentrating on studies, selected high-quality fabric processed filament and directly make raw material by the way that terylene is arranged in pairs or groups, using through oblique chaining Institutional framework, GB1 carry out the movement of chaining band yarn, and GB2 move through taper liner yarn, optimization production and processing technology, adjustment sley bar number, Yarn configuration, mode of entrying and the band yarn characteristics of motion, each each condition of step is synergistic, strict control process parameter, most throughout one's life Production obtains that stability is good, and elongation is low, and the moderate quick-drying shell fabric of elasticity has broad application prospects and huge market price Value.

Wherein, the DTY refers to low elastic polyester filament, is also draw textured yarn；FDY refers to raw silk rings, is also fully drawn yarn；It washs Synthetic fibre is an important species in synthetic fibers, is the product name of China's polyester fiber.Be with p-phthalic acid (PTA) or Dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) (DMT) and ethylene glycol (MEG) be raw material through prepared by esterification or transesterification and polycondensation reaction at fibre High polymer --- polyethylene terephthalate (PET) through spinning and post-processes manufactured fiber.Selection polyester filament, one Aspect compensates for the deficiency that cotton fabric creases easily, is easily-deformable, is not wear-resisting etc., on the other hand also played terylene itself compared with It is good be unlikely to deform, quick-drying washable advantage.

Wherein, the raw material are as follows:

PET FDY (ordinary polyester raw silk rings)

PET DTY (ordinary polyester processed filament)

Preferably, before described the band yarn yardage of comb GB1 be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000-1050mm/rack, such as It can be 1000mm/rack, 1010mm/rack, 1020mm/rack, 1030mm/rack, 1040mm/rack or 1050mm/ Rack, method of entrying are completely to wear.

Preferably, after described the band yarn yardage of comb GB2 be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2000-2500mm/rack, such as It can be 2000mm/rack, 2100mm/rack, 2200mm/rack, 2300mm/rack, 2400mm/rack or 2500mm/ Rack, method of entrying are completely to wear.

Preferably, the shrinking percentage of the fabric is 1-6%, such as can be 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% or 6%.

Finished product CPI is 56-62 column, such as can be 56 column, 57 column, 58 column, 59 column, 60 column, 61 column or 62 column.

The finished product WPI of the fabric is 30-35 row, such as can be 30 rows, 31 rows, 32 rows, 33 rows, 34 rows or 35 rows.

The finished product grammes per square metre of the fabric is 118-125g/m2, such as can be 118g/m2、119g/m2、120g/m2、 121g/m2、122g/m2、123g/m2、124g/m2Or 125g/m2。

Wherein, the CPI is row number of the fabric in 1 inch, and the WPI is coil of the fabric in 1 inch Stringer number.

A kind of second aspect, method for producing fabric as described in relation to the first aspect of the present invention, includes the following steps:

(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar book For 2bars, machine speed is 1100-1300r/min；

(2) be arranged set factors: it is preceding comb GB1 band yarn yardage be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in be 1000~1050mm/ Rack, method of entrying are completely to wear；Afterwards comb GB2 band yarn yardage be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in be 2000~2500mm/rack, wear Yarn method is completely to wear；

(3) make blank: using 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw material, preceding comb GB1 into The movement of row chaining band yarn, the rear GB2 that combs move through taper liner yarn, are woven to obtain using through oblique pillar stitch's structure；

(4) dyeing and finishing technology: blank is refined, dyeing, heat setting, dye vat wash water, is added after dry cloth in finished product shaping process Hydrophilic softener obtains the plain color fabric.

The problem of should be noted that when braiding:

A. it need to be noticed when warping technology, raw material is all terylene, and production process can generate electrostatic, is suitably added elimination electrostatic Agent, and fill ionization type Xelminator.

B. according to the different sizes for adjusting warp run-in and batching roller tension with actual conditions of fabric institutional framework, guarantee Fabric is smooth；Adjust warp tension, avoid it is excessive cause network of yarns point off-grid or single fiber to be broken, cause cloth cover to have filoplume, very To causing yarn breakage to have the faults such as broken hole, influence it is woven go on smoothly, while the temperature in workshop should be controlled at 25 DEG C or so, Humidity should be controlled in (65 ± 5) %.

C. when machine both sides use side shoring device, so that the tension spikes under fabric when machine reduce, it as far as possible will be Bradley It opens, makes coil stress more evenly；If side shoring device is not added, at least 1 inch of woven design distortion of fabric both sides influences appearance.

Preferably, the equipment of step (4) described dyeing and finishing technology is high temperature and pressure jet overflow dyeing machine.

Preferably, the overflow dyeing machine includes body circulating pump heater, nozzle, lifting device and charging cylinder.

The present invention uses high temperature and pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, which is filled by body circulating pump heater, nozzle, promotion It sets, the composition such as the cylinder that feeds.Fabric iterative cycles operating in the form of rope form relaxation in machine, constantly by the impact of dye liquor and leaching Stain, therefore, fabric color uniformly and good penetrability.

Preferably, the temperature of step (4) described dyeing be 120-140 DEG C, such as can be 120 DEG C, 125 DEG C, 130 DEG C, 135 DEG C or 140 DEG C.

Preferably, the pressure of step (4) described dyeing is 2-3bar, such as can be 2bar, 2.5bar or 3bar；

Preferably, the pH value of step (4) described dyeing is 4-4.5, such as can be 4,4.1,4.2,4.3,4.4 or 4.5.

Preferably, the temperature of step (4) described heat setting is 160-180 DEG C, such as can be 160 DEG C, 163 DEG C, 165 DEG C, 167 DEG C, 170 DEG C, 175 DEG C, 177 DEG C or 180 DEG C.

The dyeing course of step (4) described dyeing and finishing technology also needs to add levelling agent.

It should be noted that following item when dyeing and finishing:

A. fabric must be thoroughly concise, to remove the finish that fiber surface attaches.

When b. dyeing, dyeing rate is controlled, first is that being conducive to dyestuff reaches uniform adsorption；Two prevent chicken feet print and wrinkle The generation of print.In addition, cooperateing with heating rate using levelling agent, dye defect is reduced.

C. hydrophilic processing is carried out in dyeing and finishing process, make hygroscopicity more preferably.

D. to improve feel, then hydrophilic softener must be used, but soft dosage should not be excessive, otherwise will affect face The hydrophily of material makes cloth cover have viscid sense.

E. notice that row machine speed need to be depending on fabric grammes per square metre size when heat setting.

As optimization technique method, a method of production fabric as described in relation to the first aspect specifically comprises the following steps:

(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar book For 2bars, machine speed is 1100-1300r/min；

(2) be arranged set factors: it is preceding comb GB1 band yarn yardage be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000-1050mm/ Rack, method of entrying are completely to wear；Afterwards comb GB2 band yarn yardage be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2000-2500mm/rack is worn Yarn method is completely to wear；

(3) make blank: using 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw material, preceding comb GB1 into The movement of row chaining band yarn, the rear GB2 that combs move through taper liner yarn, are woven to obtain using through oblique pillar stitch's structure；

(4) dyeing and finishing technology: using the high temperature and pressure for including body circulating pump heater, nozzle, lifting device and the cylinder that feeds Jet overflow dyeing machine, by blank continuous refining, 120-140 DEG C is dyed and is added levelling agent, and the pressure of dyeing is 2-3bar, pH For 4-4.5,160-180 DEG C of tentering heat setting, dye vat wash water adds hydrophilic softener in finished product shaping process after dry cloth, obtains To the plain color fabric.

The third aspect, the present invention provide a kind of fabric or second aspect the method as described in relation to the first aspect and produce to obtain Fabric be used to make the applications of clothes；

Preferably, the clothes are shirt.

The present invention optimizes weaving using polyester filament as raw material, is dyed final finishing and obtains the face of suitable for making shirt Material, more meets the trend of high-grade shirt fabrics of new generation.

Compared with prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

The vertically and horizontally excellent stability of terylene warp knit plain color fabric provided by the invention, washing shrinkage is within ± 2%；It is dry Time is less than 20min, has rapid-drying properties, is suitble to spring and summer dress；Elongation is lower than 25%, and elasticity is moderate；Fabric of the invention Have the advantages that soft, the moderate, rapid-drying properties of elasticity, wrinkle resistance are good etc. a variety of, has broad application prospects and huge city Field value.

Detailed description of the invention

Fig. 1 is the coil structure of terylene warp knit plain color fabric of the invention；

Fig. 2 is the pictorial diagram of terylene warp knit plain color fabric of the invention.

Specific embodiment

Further to illustrate technological means and its effect adopted by the present invention, below in conjunction with attached drawing and by specific real Mode to further illustrate the technical scheme of the present invention is applied, but the present invention is not limited in scope of embodiments.

Embodiment 1

(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar number For 2bars, machine speed is 1200r/min；

(2) be arranged set factors: it is preceding comb GB1 band yarn yardage be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1010mm/rack entrys Method is completely to wear, and radical of entrying is 560, and coiled hair number is 4；Afterwards comb GB2 band yarn yardage be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in For 2222mm/rack, method of entrying is completely to wear, and radical of entrying is 560, and coiled hair number is 4；

(3) blank is made: with 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1) and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY (GB2) for raw material, Preceding comb GB1 carries out the movement of chaining band yarn, and the rear GB2 that combs move through taper liner yarn, woven to obtain using through oblique pillar stitch's structure；

(4) dyeing and finishing technology: using the high temperature and pressure for including body circulating pump heater, nozzle, lifting device and the cylinder that feeds Jet overflow dyeing machine refines blank, and 130 DEG C of high pressure dyeings of high temperature simultaneously add levelling agent, and dyeing pressure is 2.5bar, dyeing PH value be 4,170 DEG C of heat settings of high temperature, dye vat wash water adds hydrophilic softener in finished product shaping process after dry cloth, obtains To the plain color fabric.

It is given special heed to when knitting, as GB2 underlap increases, the grammes per square metre of fabric increases, and dimensional stability is more preferable, but It notices finished product and does shirt fabric requirement stiffness, so GB1/GB2 will suitably tighten warp run-in.

The hydrophilic softener is able to ascend fabric hand feel, and enhances water absorbing properties.

The problem of should be noted that when braiding:

A. it need to be noticed when warping technology, raw material is all terylene, and production process can generate electrostatic, is suitably added elimination electrostatic Agent, and fill ionization type Xelminator.

B. according to the different sizes for adjusting warp run-in and batching roller tension with actual conditions of fabric institutional framework, guarantee Fabric is smooth；Adjust warp tension, avoid it is excessive cause network of yarns point off-grid or single fiber to be broken, cause cloth cover to have filoplume, very To causing yarn breakage to have the faults such as broken hole, influence it is woven go on smoothly, while the temperature in workshop should be controlled at 25 DEG C or so, Humidity should be controlled in (65 ± 5) %.

C. when machine both sides use side shoring device, so that the tension spikes under fabric when machine reduce, it as far as possible will be Bradley It opens, makes coil stress more evenly；If side shoring device is not added, at least 1 inch of woven design distortion of fabric both sides influences appearance.

It should be noted that following item when dyeing and finishing:

A. fabric must be thoroughly concise, to remove the finish that fiber surface attaches.

When b. dyeing, dyeing rate is controlled, first is that being conducive to dyestuff reaches uniform adsorption；Two prevent chicken feet print and wrinkle The generation of print；In addition, cooperateing with heating rate using levelling agent, dye defect is reduced.

C. hydrophilic processing is carried out in dyeing and finishing process, make hygroscopicity more preferably.

D. in order to improve feel, it is necessary to use hydrophilic softener, but soft dosage should not be excessive, otherwise will affect fabric Hydrophily or so that cloth cover is had viscid sense.

E. notice that row machine speed need to be depending on fabric grammes per square metre size when heat setting.

The finished product CPI of the fabric is 60 column, and the finished product WPI of the fabric is 33 rows, and the breadth of the fabric is 164cm, the finished product grammes per square metre of the fabric are 120g/m2；

The loop construction of the plain color fabric as shown in Figure 1, pictorial diagram as shown in Fig. 2, plain color effect does not have special decorative pattern, Simplicity generosity, it is close with the appearance of tatting plain weave structure fabric.

Embodiment 2

(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar number For 2bars, machine speed is 1100r/min；

(2) be arranged set factors: it is preceding comb GB1 band yarn yardage be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000mm/rack entrys Method is completely to wear, and radical of entrying is 560, and coiled hair number is 4；Afterwards comb GB2 band yarn yardage be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in For 2000mm/rack, method of entrying is completely to wear, and radical of entrying is 560, and coiled hair number is 4；

(3) make blank: using 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw material, preceding comb GB1 into The movement of row chaining band yarn, the rear GB2 that combs move through taper liner yarn, are woven to obtain using through oblique pillar stitch's structure；

(4) dyeing and finishing technology: using the high temperature and pressure for including body circulating pump heater, nozzle, lifting device and the cylinder that feeds Jet overflow dyeing machine refines blank, and high temperature of 120 DEG C high pressure dyeing simultaneously adds levelling agent, and dyeing pressure is 3bar, dyeing Value in Dyeing Process is 4.5,160 DEG C of heat settings of high temperature, dye vat wash water, adds hydrophilic softener in finished product shaping process after dry cloth, Obtain the plain color fabric.

It is given special heed to when knitting, as GB2 underlap increases, the grammes per square metre of fabric increases, and dimensional stability is more preferable, but It notices finished product and does shirt fabric requirement stiffness, so GB1/GB2 will suitably tighten warp run-in.

The problem of should be noted that when braiding:

A. it need to be noticed when warping technology, raw material is all terylene, and production process can generate electrostatic, is suitably added elimination electrostatic Agent, and fill ionization type Xelminator.

B. according to the different sizes for adjusting warp run-in and batching roller tension with actual conditions of fabric institutional framework, guarantee Fabric is smooth；Adjust warp tension, avoid it is excessive cause network of yarns point off-grid or single fiber to be broken, cause cloth cover to have filoplume, very To causing yarn breakage to have the faults such as broken hole, influence it is woven go on smoothly, while the temperature in workshop should be controlled at 25 DEG C or so, Humidity should be controlled in (65 ± 5) %.

C. when machine both sides use side shoring device, so that the tension spikes under fabric when machine reduce, it as far as possible will be Bradley It opens, makes coil stress more evenly；If side shoring device is not added, at least 1 inch of woven design distortion of fabric both sides influences appearance.

It should be noted that following item when dyeing and finishing:

A. fabric must be thoroughly concise, to remove the finish that fiber surface attaches.

When b. dyeing, dyeing rate is controlled, first is that being conducive to dyestuff reaches uniform adsorption；Two prevent chicken feet print and wrinkle The generation of print；In addition, cooperateing with heating rate using levelling agent, dye defect is reduced.

C. hydrophilic processing is carried out in dyeing and finishing process, make hygroscopicity more preferably.

D. to improve feel, then hydrophilic softener must be used, but soft dosage should not be excessive, otherwise will affect face The hydrophily of material makes cloth cover have viscid sense.

E. notice that row machine speed need to be depending on fabric grammes per square metre size when heat setting.

Gained fabric appearance and embodiment 1 are almost the same.

Embodiment 3

(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar number For 2bars, machine speed is 1300r/min；

(2) be arranged set factors: it is preceding comb GB1 band yarn yardage be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1050mm/rack entrys Method is completely to wear, and radical of entrying is 560, and coiled hair number is 4；Afterwards comb GB2 band yarn yardage be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in For 2500mm/rack, method of entrying is completely to wear, and radical of entrying is 560, and coiled hair number is 4；

(3) make blank: using 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw material, preceding comb GB1 into The movement of row chaining band yarn, the rear GB2 that combs move through taper liner yarn, are woven to obtain using through oblique pillar stitch's structure；

(4) dyeing and finishing technology: using the high temperature and pressure for including body circulating pump heater, nozzle, lifting device and the cylinder that feeds Jet overflow dyeing machine refines blank, and 140 DEG C of high pressure dyeings of high temperature simultaneously add levelling agent, and the pressure of dyeing is 2bar, dyeing Value in Dyeing Process be 4,180 DEG C of heat settings of high temperature, dye vat wash water adds hydrophilic softener in finished product shaping process after dry cloth, Obtain the plain color fabric.

It is given special heed to when knitting, as GB2 underlap increases, the grammes per square metre of fabric increases, and dimensional stability is more preferable, but It notices finished product and does shirt fabric requirement stiffness, so GB1/GB2 will suitably tighten warp run-in.

The problem of should be noted that when braiding:

A. it need to be noticed when warping technology, raw material is all terylene, and production process can generate electrostatic, is suitably added elimination electrostatic Agent, and fill ionization type Xelminator.

B. according to the different sizes for adjusting warp run-in and batching roller tension with actual conditions of fabric institutional framework, guarantee Fabric is smooth；Adjust warp tension, avoid it is excessive cause network of yarns point off-grid or single fiber to be broken, cause cloth cover to have filoplume, very To causing yarn breakage to have the faults such as broken hole, influence it is woven go on smoothly, while the temperature in workshop should be controlled at 25 DEG C or so, Humidity should be controlled in (65 ± 5) %.

C. when machine both sides use side shoring device, so that the tension spikes under fabric when machine reduce, it as far as possible will be Bradley It opens, makes coil stress more evenly；If side shoring device is not added, at least 1 inch of woven design distortion of fabric both sides influences appearance.

It should be noted that following item when dyeing and finishing:

A. fabric must be thoroughly concise, to remove the finish that fiber surface attaches.

When b. dyeing, dyeing rate is controlled, first is that being conducive to dyestuff reaches uniform adsorption；Two prevent chicken feet print and wrinkle The generation of print；In addition, cooperateing with heating rate using levelling agent, dye defect is reduced.

C. hydrophilic processing is carried out in dyeing and finishing process, make hygroscopicity more preferably.

D. to improve feel, then hydrophilic softener must be used, but soft dosage should not be excessive, otherwise will affect face The hydrophily of material makes cloth cover have viscid sense.

E. notice that row machine speed need to be depending on fabric grammes per square metre size when heat setting.

Gained fabric appearance and embodiment 1 are almost the same.

Comparative example 1

Compared with Example 1, the raw material of GB1 and GB2 is all made of outside 5.6tex/36f PET FDY, other conditions and implementation Example 1 is identical.

Comparative example 2

Compared with Example 1, the raw material of GB1 and GB2 is all made of outside 5.6tex/36f PET DTY, other conditions and implementation Example 1 is identical.

Comparative example 3

Compared with Example 1, in addition to the band yarn yardage of GB1 be changed to 1-0/3-4//, the band yarn yardage of GB2 is changed to 1-0/0- 1//outer, other conditions are same as Example 1.

Experiment detection

A. tensile property

Referring to LTD-03 pull force test method (Victoria's Secret client special test), this standard is that specification is surveyed Elongation of the elastic fabric of examination tatting or knitting in the case where arranging pulling force；Test sample size is 9*3 inches, embodiment and comparison The fabric of example takes transverse and longitudinal both direction, and the pulling force instrument used is the H01-LLJ-004 puller system of Zwick/Roell, uses The power of 7.5lb, centre folder is away from for 127mm, and tensile speed 20in/min, cyclic tension is twice.

B. it shrinks performance

With reference to AATCC-135 washing shrinkage test method, the fabric of embodiment and comparative example is cut out along direction of warp and weft not small It in the pieces of cloth of 55cm*90cm, marks and measures and wash preceding length, to guarantee that test result accuracy at least samples three pairs；Through Standardization program is washed, and wash conditions are 40 DEG C of water temperature, is washed 3 times, is then dried, after record measurement is washed after conditioning Length is calculated from the formula washing shrinkage, shrinks within ± 5%, and it is all qualified to shrink, and the smaller shrink of value is better, and formula is as follows:

In formula, S is washing shrinkage, and L1 is to wash preceding length, and L2 is to wash rear length.

C. yarn hook performance

With reference to BS-8479 the measuring method rotating room method of tendency " textile reel off raw silk from cocoons " test method, in James Heal The fabric of yarn hook testing example and comparative example is carried out under Snagging Tester instrument, test sample is having a size of 140* 140mm carries out rotating forward 50 turns under 60r/min speed, inverts 50 turns, recycles 10 times, carries out 1000 turns altogether, then take out sample Compared with standard grading photo, choose yarn hook grade, grade from 1-5 grades, 5 grades be it is best, 1 grade is worst.

D. rapid-drying properties

Referring to LTD-32 (Victoria's Secret client special test) dry test method, by embodiment and comparison The test specimens of example cut weight cake, drip to 0.02-0.03g, record the cake weight of a sample at intervals of two minutes, record respectively fabric from It moistens and is completely dried the time, quick-drying shell fabric drying time requires to be less than or equal to 30 minutes.

The test result of fabric performance is shown in Table 1；

Table 1

As shown in Table 1, the fabric comprehensive performance that embodiment 1-3 is produced according to technical solution provided by the invention is tall and erect More, washing shrinkage is low, and yarn hook performance is good, and the rapid-curing cutback time is short, and wherein the performance of embodiment 1 is best, and the rapid-curing cutback time is 15min, hooks Yarn grade is 3.5, and after the preceding comb of comparative example 1-2 and rear comb select a kind of raw material, the band yarn yardage of comparative example 3 to change, The style of obtained fabric is completely different with desired shirt fabric, and different journeys occur in washing shrinkage, elongation or yarn hook performance The reduction of degree shows that each technique of each step of method provided by the invention is synergistic, is collocated with each other, pulls one hair and move the whole body, altogether With the production for the plain color fabric for realizing excellent performance.

In conclusion the present invention provides a kind of terylene warp knit plain color fabric and its production method, the fabric is by will be excellent Terylene collocation processed filament and long filament is selected to make raw material, optimized production process, adjustment sley bar number, yarn configuration, mode of entrying and band yarn The characteristics of motion, each condition of each step is synergistic, strict control process parameter, and final production obtains that stability is good, and elongation is low, The moderate quick-drying shell fabric of elasticity, has broad application prospects and huge market value.

The Applicant declares that the present invention is explained by the above embodiments method detailed of the invention, but the present invention not office Be limited to above-mentioned method detailed, that is, do not mean that the invention must rely on the above detailed methods to implement.Technical field Technical staff it will be clearly understood that any improvement in the present invention, equivalence replacement and auxiliary element to each raw material of product of the present invention Addition, selection of concrete mode etc., all of which fall within the scope of protection and disclosure of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. a kind of terylene warp knit plain color fabric, which is characterized in that the fabric passes through list using PET FDY and PET DTY as raw material The preceding comb GB1 of needle bed tricot machine and rear comb GB2 weave；Wherein, the preceding comb GB1 carries out the movement of chaining band yarn, combs GB2 afterwards Moved through taper liner yarn.
2. fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that it is described before comb GB1 band yarn yardage be 1-0/0-1//, wear Yarn method is completely to wear.
3. fabric according to claim 1 or 2, which is characterized in that it is described after comb GB2 band yarn yardage be 1-0/3-4//, Method of entrying is completely to wear.
4. fabric according to any one of claim 1-3, which is characterized in that the shrinking percentage of the fabric is 1-6%, institute The finished product CPI of fabric is stated as 56-62 column, the finished product WPI of the fabric is 30-35 row, and the finished product grammes per square metre of the fabric is 118- 125g/m2；
Wherein, the CPI is row number of the fabric in 1 inch, and the WPI is wale of the fabric in 1 inch Number.
5. a kind of method of production fabric as described in any one of claim 1-4, which comprises the steps of:
(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar number is 2bars, machine speed are 1100-1300r/min；
(2) be arranged set factors: it is preceding comb GB1 band yarn yardage be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000-1050mm/rack is worn Yarn method is completely to wear；Comb afterwards GB2 band yarn yardage be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2000-2500mm/rack, the method for entrying is Completely wear；
(3) make blank: using 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw material, preceding comb GB1 is compiled The movement of chain band yarn, the rear GB2 that combs move through taper liner yarn, are woven to obtain using through oblique pillar stitch's structure；
(4) dyeing and finishing technology: blank is refined, dyeing, heat setting, dye vat wash water, hydrophilic in the addition of finished product shaping process after dry cloth Property softening agent, obtains the plain color fabric.
6. according to the method described in claim 5, it is characterized in that, the equipment of step (4) described dyeing and finishing technology is high temperature and pressure Jet overflow dyeing machine；
Preferably, the overflow dyeing machine includes body circulating pump heater, nozzle, lifting device and charging cylinder.
7. method according to claim 5 or 6, which is characterized in that the temperature of step (4) described dyeing is 120-140 DEG C；
Preferably, the pressure of step (4) described dyeing is 2-3bar；
Preferably, the Value in Dyeing Process of step (4) described dyeing is 4-4.5.
8. the method according to any one of claim 5-7, which is characterized in that the temperature of step (4) described heat setting is 160-180℃；
Preferably, the dyeing course of step (4) described dyeing and finishing technology also needs to add levelling agent.
9. the method according to any one of claim 5-8, which is characterized in that specifically comprise the following steps:
(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar book is 2bars, machine speed are 1100-1300r/min；
(2) be arranged set factors: it is preceding comb GB1 band yarn yardage be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000-1050mm/rack is worn Yarn method is completely to wear；Comb afterwards GB2 band yarn yardage be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2000-2500mm/rack, the method for entrying is Completely wear；
(3) make blank: using 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw material, preceding comb GB1 is compiled The movement of chain band yarn, the rear GB2 that combs move through taper liner yarn, are woven to obtain using through oblique pillar stitch's structure；
(4) dyeing and finishing technology: using the high temperature and pressure injection for including body circulating pump heater, nozzle, lifting device and the cylinder that feeds Overflow dyeing machine refines blank, and 120-140 DEG C is dyed and added levelling agent, and the pressure of dyeing is 2-3bar, pH 4-4.5, 160-180 DEG C of heat setting, dye vat wash water add hydrophilic softener after dry cloth, obtain the plain color fabric.
10. a kind of as any one of fabric of any of claims 1-4 or claim 5-9 the method produce To fabric be used to make the applications of clothes；
Preferably, the clothes are shirt.
CN201811255044.3A 2018-10-26 2018-10-26 A kind of terylene warp knit plain color fabric and its production method CN109082768A (en)

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