CN109082768B - Terylene warp-knitted plain fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents

Terylene warp-knitted plain fabric and production method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN109082768B
CN109082768B CN201811255044.3A CN201811255044A CN109082768B CN 109082768 B CN109082768 B CN 109082768B CN 201811255044 A CN201811255044 A CN 201811255044A CN 109082768 B CN109082768 B CN 109082768B
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fabric
dyeing
warp
machine
comb
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CN109082768A (en
Inventor
王思捷
张贵
谢香娇
胡保红
杨浚华
邱利红
康小战
李成炳
陈军
付永津
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Intertai Panyu Textile Printing And Dyeing Co ltd
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Intertai Panyu Textile Printing And Dyeing Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B17/00Selection of special materials for underwear
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/28Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics propelled by, or with the aid of, jets of the treating material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B2500/00Materials for underwear, baby linen or handkerchiefs
    • A41B2500/10Knitted
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Abstract

The invention provides a polyester warp-knitted plain-color fabric and a production method thereof, the fabric is produced by matching optimized polyester with processing yarns and straight yarns as raw materials, adopting a warp-diagonal chain knitting organization structure, carrying out chain knitting yarn laying motion by a front comb GB1, carrying out warp-diagonal yarn laying motion by a rear comb GB2, optimizing the production process, adjusting the number of guide bars, yarn configuration, yarn threading mode and yarn laying motion rule, carrying out synergy under all conditions in all steps, strictly controlling flow parameters, finally producing the warp-knitted plain-color fabric with good stability, low elongation and moderate elasticity, and has wide application prospect and huge market value.

Description

Terylene warp-knitted plain fabric and production method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a polyester warp-knitted plain-color fabric and a production method thereof.
Background
The traditional shirts, especially the business shirts, basically require good stiffness and shape-keeping property, so the woven fabric is the best choice, especially the pure cotton woven fabric, and still occupies a larger market share due to soft hand feeling and comfortable wearing. However, the woven fabric is easy to wrinkle and has no elastic constraint feeling in wearing and washing processes, which is also a defect of the woven fabric structure. The knitted fabric structure is formed by bending yarns into loops by using a knitting needle, and the loops are mutually sleeved in series, so that the knitted fabric structure is rich in ductility, and a knitted shirt is favored. The weft knitted shirt is soft, close fitting, comfortable and free to wear, but is less stiff and smooth and dimensionally stable than a woven shirt, so that the application to shirt fabrics is limited. The warp knitted fabric has relatively stable structure and moderate elasticity, can overcome the defect of easy wrinkling of the woven fabric, and has the advantages of softness, comfort, free stretching and the like of the knitted fabric, so that the warp knitted shirt fabric is more in line with the trend of a new generation of high-grade shirt fabric.
The terylene warp-knitted fabric is woven by low-elasticity terylene yarns with the same denier number or is formed by interweaving low-elasticity terylene yarns with different denier numbers as raw materials, the common weave is a warp plain weave combining a warp plain weave and a warp velvet weave, the fabric is dyed to form a plain color fabric, the design and color have plain color hidden strips, hidden grids, plain color bright strips, bright grids, plain color hidden flowers, bright flowers and the like, and the fabric has flat and stiff cloth surface, bright color, and thick type, medium-thick type and thin type. The thin fabric is mainly used as the fabric of shirts and skirts; the medium-thick type and thick type can be used as the fabrics of men and women overcoat, wind coat, upper garment, suit, trousers, etc.
CN101736508A discloses a processing method of warp-knitted super-soft grid knitted polyester fabric, which comprises the following steps: selecting and warping raw materials, namely selecting surface layer tissue raw materials and bottom layer tissue raw materials, and warping the selected raw materials of the surface layer tissue and the bottom layer tissue respectively; weaving, namely weaving the selected and warped raw materials of the surface and bottom layer tissues by a warp knitting machine to obtain grey cloth; dyeing, namely dyeing the grey cloth to obtain dyed grey cloth; and (4) after finishing, namely performing after finishing on the dyed grey cloth to obtain the warp-knitted super-soft-lattice knitted polyester fabric. CN103859664B discloses a super cotton-like/fine-denier moisture-conducting terylene comfortable mercerized velvet warp-knitted fabric processing technology, which comprises a super cotton-like fiber technology, a fine-denier moisture-conducting and elasticizing terylene filament elasticizing technology, a warping technology, a warp-knitted fabric weaving technology, a warp-knitted fabric dyeing technology and a warp-knitted fabric finishing technology. The invention adopts the fine denier terylene with the moisture-conducting function and the super cotton-like fiber yarn to be interwoven, and utilizes the procedures of imported TM2 series high-grade warp knitting machine weaving, polyether modified organic silicon finishing agent hydrophilic soft finishing and the like to successfully develop the super cotton-like/fine denier moisture-conducting terylene comfortable mercerized velvet warp-knitted fabric with excellent wearability. CN103243473B discloses a production method of a flower-colored silver silk warp-knitted fabric, which sequentially comprises the following steps: raw material inspection, warping, weaving on a loom, preshrinking shearing, dyeing, sizing and inspection, which is characterized in that: knitting by adopting four guide bars, wherein the first guide bar is fully penetrated with polyester filaments, and a multi-needle warp flat structure is adopted; the second guide bar fully penetrates polyester filaments and adopts a warp-flat structure; the third guide bar 1 is threaded with 5 hollow nylon monofilaments and twisted yarns of silver yarns, and a variable weft insertion structure is adopted; and the fourth guide bar is fully penetrated with spandex yarns and adopts a warp flat structure. The fabric produced by the method has rich colors, wear resistance, warp resistance and good coating property. However, the fabric in the prior art has poor stability, poor wrinkle resistance and complex and complicated production process, and needs to be further improved.
In conclusion, the polyester warp-knitted fabric which is good in stability, low in elongation and moderate in elasticity is developed, is used for manufacturing high-grade shirts, and has wide application prospect and great market value.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects and actual requirements of the prior art, the invention provides the polyester warp-knitted plain fabric and the preparation method thereof, the fabric is prepared by preferably selecting polyester matched processing yarns and straight yarns as raw materials, optimizing the production process, adjusting the number of guide bars, the yarn configuration, the yarn threading mode and the yarn laying motion rule, realizing the synergistic synergy of all the steps and strictly controlling the process parameters, finally obtaining the quick-drying fabric with good stability, low elongation and moderate elasticity, and has wide application prospect and great market value.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect, the invention provides a polyester warp-knitted plain fabric which is woven by taking PET FDY and PET DTY as raw materials through a front comb GB1 and a rear comb GB2 of a single-needle-bed warp knitting machine; the front comb GB1 carries out chain knitting yarn laying motion, the rear comb GB2 carries out oblique warp knitting yarn laying motion, and the warp knitting yarn laying motion is obtained by knitting through an oblique chain knitting organizational structure.
In the invention, in long-term production practice, in order to research and develop a stable and quick-drying plain color fabric, the process flow is carefully researched, high-quality fabric is carefully selected, polyester is matched with processing yarns and is directly used as raw materials, a warp inclined chain knitting organizational structure is adopted, GB1 performs chain knitting yarn laying motion, GB2 performs warp inclined yarn laying motion, the production and processing process is optimized, the number of guide bars, yarn configuration, a yarn threading mode and yarn laying motion rules are adjusted, all steps are synergistic under the cooperation of all conditions, flow parameters are strictly controlled, and finally the quick-drying fabric with good stability, low elongation and moderate elasticity is produced, so that the quick-drying fabric has wide application prospect and great market value.
Wherein the DTY refers to polyester low stretch yarn, also called draw textured yarn; FDY refers to straight, also called fully drawn, yarn; terylene is an important variety in synthetic fibers and is the trade name of polyester fibers in China. The fiber is prepared by using Purified Terephthalic Acid (PTA) or dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) and ethylene glycol (MEG) as raw materials, performing esterification or ester exchange and polycondensation reaction to prepare fiber-forming high polymer, namely polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and spinning and post-processing the fiber. The polyester filament yarn is selected, so that the defects that the cotton fabric is easy to wrinkle, deform and wear-resistant are overcome, and the advantages of good deformation resistance, easy washing and quick drying of the polyester are also exerted.
Wherein the raw materials are as follows:
PET FDY (common terylene straight filament)
PET DTY (common polyester processing yarn)
Preferably, the front comb GB1 has the yarn laying number of 1-0/0-1//, the warp feeding amount of 1000 + 1050mm/rack, such as 1000mm/rack, 1010mm/rack, 1020mm/rack, 1030mm/rack, 1040mm/rack or 1050mm/rack, and the threading method is full threading.
Preferably, the yarn laying number of the rear comb GB2 is 1-0/3-4//, the warp feeding amount is 2000-.
Preferably, the shrinkage of the facing is 1-6%, for example may be 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% or 6%.
The finished CPI is 56-62 columns, which may be, for example, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, or 62 columns.
The finished product WPI of the fabric is 30-35 lines, and can be 30 lines, 31 lines, 32 lines, 33 lines, 34 lines or 35 lines.
The gram weight of the finished product of the fabric is 118-125g/m2May be, for example, 118g/m2、119g/m2、120g/m2、121g/m2、122g/m2、123g/m2、124g/m2Or 125g/m2
Wherein CPI is the number of courses in the fabric within 1 inch and WPI is the number of wales in the fabric within 1 inch.
In a second aspect, the present invention is a method of producing a facing material according to the first aspect, comprising the steps of:
(1) selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the bar book of 2bars and the machine speed of 1100-;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn laying number of the front comb GB1 is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1000-1050mm/rack, and the yarn threading method is full threading; the yarn laying number of the rear comb GB2 is 1-0/3-4//, the let-off quantity is 2000-2500mm/rack, and the yarn threading method is full threading;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw materials, carrying out chain knitting and yarn laying motion on a front comb GB1, carrying out warp inclined yarn laying motion on a rear comb GB2, and knitting by adopting a warp inclined chain knitting structure;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: and refining the blank, dyeing, heat setting, washing with water in a dye vat, drying the cloth, and adding a hydrophilic softening agent in the setting process of a finished product to obtain the plain fabric.
Problems to be noted in knitting:
a. the warping process needs attention, the raw materials are terylene, static electricity is generated in the production process, and an antistatic agent and an ionization type static electricity eliminator are properly added.
b. The let-off quantity and the tension of the cloth roller are adjusted according to different fabric weave structures and actual conditions, so that the gray fabric is smooth; the on-machine tension is adjusted, the phenomenon that the weaving is affected smoothly due to defects such as hairiness on the cloth surface, broken holes and the like even when yarns are broken because of the mesh point of the yarns or single fiber breakage caused by overlarge yarn tension is avoided, meanwhile, the temperature of a workshop is controlled to be about 25 ℃, and the humidity is controlled to be (65 +/-5)%.
c. When the temple devices are adopted on two sides of the machine, the tension sudden change when the blank cloth is taken off the machine is reduced, the cloth is pulled open as much as possible, and the stress of the coil is more uniform; without the edge supporting device, the two sides of the grey cloth are twisted by at least 1 inch of cloth veins, which affects the appearance.
Preferably, the device of the dyeing and finishing process of step (4) is a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine.
Preferably, said dying machine comprises a machine body circulation pump heater, a nozzle, a lifting device and a feeding vat.
The invention adopts a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine which comprises a machine body circulating pump heater, a nozzle, a lifting device, a feeding cylinder and the like. The fabric is repeatedly circulated in the machine in a rope-like loose mode and is continuously impacted and soaked by the dye liquor, so that the fabric is uniform in color and good in permeability.
Preferably, the temperature of the dyeing in step (4) is 120-.
Preferably, the dyeing pressure in step (4) is 2-3bar, for example 2bar, 2.5bar or 3 bar;
preferably, the dyeing in step (4) has a pH of 4 to 4.5, which may be, for example, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4 or 4.5.
Preferably, the heat-setting temperature in step (4) is 160-.
And (4) adding a leveling agent in the dyeing process of the dyeing and finishing process.
The following matters should be noted during dyeing and finishing:
a. the grey cloth must be thoroughly refined to remove the oil adhered to the surface of the fiber.
b. During dyeing, the dyeing rate is controlled, and on one hand, the dye is favorably and uniformly adsorbed; and secondly, chicken paw prints and wrinkle prints are prevented from being generated. In addition, the leveling agent is used for cooperating with the heating rate to reduce dyeing defects.
c. Hydrophilic processing is needed in the dyeing and finishing process, so that the moisture absorption is better.
d. To improve the hand feel, a hydrophilic softener is required, but the softening dose is not too high, which affects the hydrophilicity of the fabric or makes the fabric sticky.
e. The speed of the machine is determined by the gram weight of the fabric during heat setting.
As a preferred technical method, a method for producing the fabric according to the first aspect specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the bar book of 2bars and the machine speed of 1100-;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn laying number of the front comb GB1 is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1000-; the yarn laying number of the rear comb GB2 is 1-0/3-4//, the let-off quantity is 2000-2500mm/rack, and the yarn threading method is full threading;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw materials, carrying out chain knitting and yarn laying motion on a front comb GB1, carrying out warp inclined yarn laying motion on a rear comb GB2, and knitting by adopting a warp inclined chain knitting structure;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: the blank is continuously refined by adopting a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine comprising a machine body circulating pump heater, a nozzle, a lifting device and a feeding cylinder, dyeing is carried out at the temperature of 140 ℃, a leveling agent is added, the dyeing pressure is 2-3bar, the pH value is 4-4.5, tentering and heat setting are carried out at the temperature of 180 ℃, the dyeing cylinder is used for washing water, and a hydrophilic softening agent is added in the finished product setting process after cloth drying to obtain the plain-color fabric.
In a third aspect, the present invention provides use of a fabric according to the first aspect or produced by the method of the second aspect for making a garment;
preferably, the garment is a shirt.
The invention takes the polyester filament as the raw material, optimizes the weaving process, obtains the fabric suitable for manufacturing shirts after dyeing and finishing, and better accords with the trend of the new generation of high-grade shirt fabric.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the polyester warp-knitted plain fabric provided by the invention has excellent longitudinal and transverse stability, and the shrinkage is within +/-2%; the drying time is less than 20min, and the fabric has quick-drying property and is suitable for wearing in spring and summer; the elongation is lower than 25%, and the elasticity is moderate; the fabric has the advantages of soft hand feeling, moderate elasticity, quick drying property, good crease resistance and the like, and has wide application prospect and great market value.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a coil structure diagram of a polyester warp-knitted plain fabric of the invention;
FIG. 2 is a real object diagram of the polyester warp-knitted plain fabric of the invention.
Detailed Description
To further illustrate the technical means and effects of the present invention, the following further describes the technical solutions of the present invention by way of specific embodiments with reference to the drawings, but the present invention is not limited to the scope of the embodiments.
Example 1
(1) Selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar number of 2bars and the machine speed of 1200 r/min;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn laying number of the front comb GB1 is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1010mm/rack, the yarn threading method is full threading, the number of thread threading is 560, and the number of pan heads is 4; the yarn laying number of the rear comb GB2 is 1-0/3-4//, the let-off quantity is 2222mm/rack, the yarn threading method is full threading, the number of thread threading is 560, and the number of pan heads is 4;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1) and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY (GB2) as raw materials, carrying out chain knitting and yarn laying motion on a front comb GB1, carrying out warp inclined yarn laying motion on a rear comb GB2, and knitting by adopting a warp inclined chain knitting structure;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: the blank is refined by adopting a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine comprising a machine body circulating pump heater, a nozzle, a lifting device and a feeding cylinder, high-temperature high-pressure dyeing is carried out at the high temperature of 130 ℃, a levelling agent is added, the dyeing pressure is 2.5bar, the pH value of the dyeing is 4, heat setting is carried out at the high temperature of 170 ℃, washing water is carried out in a dyeing cylinder, and a hydrophilic softening agent is added in the setting process of a finished product after cloth drying, so that the plain-color fabric is obtained.
Special attention is paid to weaving on a machine, the gram weight of the fabric is increased and the dimensional stability is better along with the increase of a GB2 extension line, but the requirement of stiffness and smoothness of a finished product made into shirt fabric is paid to attention, so the let-off quantity of GB1/GB2 needs to be properly tightened.
The hydrophilic softening agent can improve the hand feeling of the fabric and enhance the water absorption performance.
Problems to be noted in knitting:
a. the warping process needs attention, the raw materials are terylene, static electricity is generated in the production process, and an antistatic agent and an ionization type static electricity eliminator are properly added.
b. The let-off quantity and the tension of the cloth roller are adjusted according to different fabric weave structures and actual conditions, so that the gray fabric is smooth; the on-machine tension is adjusted, the phenomenon that the weaving is affected smoothly due to defects such as hairiness on the cloth surface, broken holes and the like even when yarns are broken because of the mesh point of the yarns or single fiber breakage caused by overlarge yarn tension is avoided, meanwhile, the temperature of a workshop is controlled to be about 25 ℃, and the humidity is controlled to be (65 +/-5)%.
c. When the temple devices are adopted on two sides of the machine, the tension sudden change when the blank cloth is taken off the machine is reduced, the cloth is pulled open as much as possible, and the stress of the coil is more uniform; without the edge supporting device, the two sides of the grey cloth are twisted by at least 1 inch of cloth veins, which affects the appearance.
The following matters should be noted during dyeing and finishing:
a. the grey cloth must be thoroughly refined to remove the oil adhered to the surface of the fiber.
b. During dyeing, the dyeing rate is controlled, and on one hand, the dye is favorably and uniformly adsorbed; secondly, chicken paw prints and wrinkle prints are prevented from being generated; in addition, the leveling agent is used for cooperating with the heating rate to reduce dyeing defects.
c. Hydrophilic processing is needed in the dyeing and finishing process, so that the moisture absorption is better.
d. In order to improve the hand feeling, a hydrophilic softener is required, but the dosage of the softener is not too high, so that the hydrophilicity of the fabric is influenced or the sticky feeling of the fabric surface is caused.
e. The speed of the machine is determined by the gram weight of the fabric during heat setting.
The CPI of the finished product of the fabric is 60 lines, the WPI of the finished product of the fabric is 33 lines, the width of the fabric is 164cm, and the gram weight of the finished product of the fabric is 120g/m 2;
the coil structure of the plain fabric is shown in figure 1, the physical diagram is shown in figure 2, the plain effect is free of special patterns, and the plain fabric is simple and elegant and is similar to the appearance of the woven plain fabric.
Example 2
(1) Selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar number of 2bars and the machine speed of 1100 r/min;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn laying number of the front comb GB1 is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1000mm/rack, the yarn threading method is full threading, the number of thread threading is 560, and the number of pan heads is 4; the yarn laying number of the rear comb GB2 is 1-0/3-4//, the let-off quantity is 2000mm/rack, the yarn threading method is full threading, the number of thread threading is 560, and the number of pan heads is 4;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw materials, carrying out chain knitting and yarn laying motion on a front comb GB1, carrying out warp inclined yarn laying motion on a rear comb GB2, and knitting by adopting a warp inclined chain knitting structure;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: the blank is refined by adopting a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine comprising a machine body circulating pump heater, a nozzle, a lifting device and a feeding cylinder, dyeing is carried out at high temperature of 120 ℃ and high pressure, a levelling agent is added, the dyeing pressure is 3bar, the pH value of a dyeing bath is 4.5, heat setting is carried out at high temperature of 160 ℃, washing water is carried out in a dyeing cylinder, and a hydrophilic softening agent is added in the setting process of a finished product after cloth drying, so that the plain fabric is obtained.
Special attention is paid to weaving on a machine, the gram weight of the fabric is increased and the dimensional stability is better along with the increase of a GB2 extension line, but the requirement of stiffness and smoothness of a finished product made into shirt fabric is paid to attention, so the let-off quantity of GB1/GB2 needs to be properly tightened.
Problems to be noted in knitting:
a. the warping process needs attention, the raw materials are terylene, static electricity is generated in the production process, and an antistatic agent and an ionization type static electricity eliminator are properly added.
b. The let-off quantity and the tension of the cloth roller are adjusted according to different fabric weave structures and actual conditions, so that the gray fabric is smooth; the on-machine tension is adjusted, the phenomenon that the weaving is affected smoothly due to defects such as hairiness on the cloth surface, broken holes and the like even when yarns are broken because of the mesh point of the yarns or single fiber breakage caused by overlarge yarn tension is avoided, meanwhile, the temperature of a workshop is controlled to be about 25 ℃, and the humidity is controlled to be (65 +/-5)%.
c. When the temple devices are adopted on two sides of the machine, the tension sudden change when the blank cloth is taken off the machine is reduced, the cloth is pulled open as much as possible, and the stress of the coil is more uniform; without the edge supporting device, the two sides of the grey cloth are twisted by at least 1 inch of cloth veins, which affects the appearance.
The following matters should be noted during dyeing and finishing:
a. the grey cloth must be thoroughly refined to remove the oil adhered to the surface of the fiber.
b. During dyeing, the dyeing rate is controlled, and on one hand, the dye is favorably and uniformly adsorbed; secondly, chicken paw prints and wrinkle prints are prevented from being generated; in addition, the leveling agent is used for cooperating with the heating rate to reduce dyeing defects.
c. Hydrophilic processing is needed in the dyeing and finishing process, so that the moisture absorption is better.
d. To improve the hand feel, a hydrophilic softener is required, but the softening dose is not too high, which affects the hydrophilicity of the fabric or makes the fabric sticky.
e. The speed of the machine is determined by the gram weight of the fabric during heat setting.
The resulting face fabric appearance was substantially identical to example 1.
Example 3
(1) Selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar number of 2bars and the machine speed of 1300 r/min;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn laying number of the front comb GB1 is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1050mm/rack, the yarn threading method is full threading, the number of thread threading is 560, and the number of pan heads is 4; the yarn laying number of the rear comb GB2 is 1-0/3-4//, the let-off quantity is 2500mm/rack, the yarn threading method is full threading, the number of thread threading is 560, and the number of pan heads is 4;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw materials, carrying out chain knitting and yarn laying motion on a front comb GB1, carrying out warp inclined yarn laying motion on a rear comb GB2, and knitting by adopting a warp inclined chain knitting structure;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: the blank is refined by adopting a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine comprising a machine body circulating pump heater, a nozzle, a lifting device and a feeding cylinder, dyeing is carried out at high temperature of 140 ℃ and high pressure, a levelling agent is added, the dyeing pressure is 2bar, the pH value of a dyeing bath is 4, heat setting is carried out at high temperature of 180 ℃, washing water is carried out in a dyeing cylinder, and a hydrophilic softening agent is added in the setting process of a finished product after cloth drying, so that the plain fabric is obtained.
Special attention is paid to weaving on a machine, the gram weight of the fabric is increased and the dimensional stability is better along with the increase of a GB2 extension line, but the requirement of stiffness and smoothness of a finished product made into shirt fabric is paid to attention, so the let-off quantity of GB1/GB2 needs to be properly tightened.
Problems to be noted in knitting:
a. the warping process needs attention, the raw materials are terylene, static electricity is generated in the production process, and an antistatic agent and an ionization type static electricity eliminator are properly added.
b. The let-off quantity and the tension of the cloth roller are adjusted according to different fabric weave structures and actual conditions, so that the gray fabric is smooth; the on-machine tension is adjusted, the phenomenon that the weaving is affected smoothly due to defects such as hairiness on the cloth surface, broken holes and the like even when yarns are broken because of the mesh point of the yarns or single fiber breakage caused by overlarge yarn tension is avoided, meanwhile, the temperature of a workshop is controlled to be about 25 ℃, and the humidity is controlled to be (65 +/-5)%.
c. When the temple devices are adopted on two sides of the machine, the tension sudden change when the blank cloth is taken off the machine is reduced, the cloth is pulled open as much as possible, and the stress of the coil is more uniform; without the edge supporting device, the two sides of the grey cloth are twisted by at least 1 inch of cloth veins, which affects the appearance.
The following matters should be noted during dyeing and finishing:
a. the grey cloth must be thoroughly refined to remove the oil adhered to the surface of the fiber.
b. During dyeing, the dyeing rate is controlled, and on one hand, the dye is favorably and uniformly adsorbed; secondly, chicken paw prints and wrinkle prints are prevented from being generated; in addition, the leveling agent is used for cooperating with the heating rate to reduce dyeing defects.
c. Hydrophilic processing is needed in the dyeing and finishing process, so that the moisture absorption is better.
d. To improve the hand feel, a hydrophilic softener is required, but the softening dose is not too high, which affects the hydrophilicity of the fabric or makes the fabric sticky.
e. The speed of the machine is determined by the gram weight of the fabric during heat setting.
The resulting face fabric appearance was substantially identical to example 1.
Comparative example 1
Compared with example 1, the raw materials of GB1 and GB2 are 5.6tex/36f PET FDY, and the other conditions are the same as example 1.
Comparative example 2
Compared with example 1, the raw materials of GB1 and GB2 are 5.6tex/36f PET DTY, and other conditions are the same as example 1.
Comparative example 3
Compared with the example 1, the conditions are the same as the example 1 except that the yarn laying number of GB1 is changed to 1-0/3-4// and the yarn laying number of GB2 is changed to 1-0/0-1// respectively.
Experimental detection
a. Tensile Properties
The tension testing method (Victoria's Secret customer special test) of the strain of the American ginseng, which is carried out by the American ginseng, the standard is to standardize and test the elongation of the woven or knitted elastic fabric under the appointed tension; the test specimen size was 9 x 3 inches, the face fabric of the examples and comparative examples was oriented in both the cross and machine directions, the tensile machine used was a Zwick/Roell H01-LLJ-004 tensile machine, a force of 7.5lb was used, the intermediate nip was 127mm, the draw speed was 20in/min, and the cycle draw was two times.
b. Shrinkage property
Referring to an AATCC-135 shrinkage test method, fabric pieces of not less than 55cm by 90cm are cut from the fabrics of the examples and the comparative examples along the warp and weft directions, marks are made, the length before washing is measured, and at least three pairs of samples are taken to ensure the accuracy of test results; washing by a standard program, wherein the washing condition is that the water temperature is 40 ℃, washing for 3 times, then draining, recording and measuring the length after washing after conditioning, calculating the shrinkage rate according to a formula, wherein the shrinkage is within +/-5%, the shrinkage is qualified, the smaller the value is, the better the shrinkage is, and the formula is as follows:
wherein S is the shrinkage, L1 is the length before washing, and L2 is the length after washing.
c. Performance of yarn hooking
Referring to the test method of BS-8479, namely the method for measuring the spinning tendency of textiles, namely the rotating chamber method, the fabrics of the examples and the comparative examples are subjected to yarn hooking test under a James Heal Snagging Tester, the size of a test sample is 140mm, the fabric is subjected to forward rotation of 50 turns and reverse rotation of 50 turns at the speed of 60r/min, the fabric is circulated for 10 times for 1000 turns, then the sample is taken out to be compared with a standard rating photo, and the yarn hooking grade is evaluated, wherein the grade is from 1 to 5, the grade 5 is optimal, and the grade 1 is worst.
d. Quick drying method
Referring to the LTD-32(Victoria's Secret customer test) drying test method, test samples of examples and comparative examples were cut into heavy cakes, dropped to 0.02-0.03g, and the cake weight of the samples was recorded every 2 minutes, respectively, the time from wet to complete drying of the face fabric was recorded, and the time for quick drying the face fabric was required to be 30 minutes or less.
The test results of the fabric properties are shown in table 1;
TABLE 1
As can be seen from table 1, the fabrics produced according to the technical schemes provided by examples 1 to 3 are excellent in comprehensive performance, low in shrinkage, good in yarn hooking performance and short in quick-drying time, wherein the performance of example 1 is optimal, the quick-drying time is 15min, the yarn hooking grade is 3.5, the front comb and the rear comb of comparative examples 1 to 2 are made of one raw material, after the yarn padding number of comparative example 3 is changed, the style of the obtained fabric is completely different from that of a required shirt fabric, and the shrinkage, the elongation or the yarn hooking performance is reduced to different degrees, which indicates that the processes in the steps of the method provided by the invention are synergistic, matched with each other, pulled by one person and moved by one person, and the production of the plain fabric with excellent performance is realized together.
In conclusion, the invention provides the polyester warp-knitted plain color fabric and the production method thereof, the fabric is prepared by matching the optimized polyester with the processing yarns and the filaments as the raw materials, optimizing the production process, adjusting the number of guide bars, the yarn configuration, the yarn threading mode and the yarn laying motion rule, realizing the synergistic effect under all the steps and strictly controlling the process parameters, and finally producing the quick-drying fabric with good stability, low elongation and moderate elasticity, thereby having wide application prospect and great market value.
The applicant states that the present invention is illustrated in detail by the above examples, but the present invention is not limited to the above detailed methods, i.e. it is not meant that the present invention must rely on the above detailed methods for its implementation. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that any modification of the present invention, equivalent substitutions of the raw materials of the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., are within the scope and disclosure of the present invention.

Claims (13)

1. The finished product with soft hand feeling has the gram weight of 118-125g/m2The polyester warp-knitted plain fabric is characterized in that the fabric is woven by taking PET FDY and PET DTY as raw materials through a front comb GB1 and a rear comb GB2 of a single needle bed warp knitting machine;
the polyester warp-knitted plain-color fabric is prepared by adopting the following method, and the method comprises the following steps:
(1) selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar number of 2bars, and the machine speed of 1100-;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn laying number of the front comb GB1 is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1000-; the yarn laying number of the rear comb GB2 is 1-0/3-4//, the let-off quantity is 2000-2500mm/rack, and the yarn threading method is full threading;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw materials, carrying out chain knitting and yarn laying motion on a front comb GB1, carrying out warp inclined yarn laying motion on a rear comb GB2, and knitting by adopting a warp inclined chain knitting structure;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: and refining the blank, dyeing, heat setting, washing with water in a dye vat, drying the cloth, and adding a hydrophilic softening agent in the setting process of a finished product to obtain the plain fabric.
2. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the shrinkage of the fabric is 1-6%, the finished fabric CPI is 56-62 columns, the finished WPI of the fabric is 30-35 rows, and the finished fabric has a grammage of 118-125g/m2
Wherein CPI is the number of courses in the fabric within 1 inch and WPI is the number of wales in the fabric within 1 inch.
3. A method of producing a facing material according to claim 1 or claim 2, comprising the steps of:
(1) selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar number of 2bars, and the machine speed of 1100-;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn laying number of the front comb GB1 is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1000-; the yarn laying number of the rear comb GB2 is 1-0/3-4//, the let-off quantity is 2000-2500mm/rack, and the yarn threading method is full threading;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw materials, carrying out chain knitting and yarn laying motion on a front comb GB1, carrying out warp inclined yarn laying motion on a rear comb GB2, and knitting by adopting a warp inclined chain knitting structure;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: and refining the blank, dyeing, heat setting, washing with water in a dye vat, drying the cloth, and adding a hydrophilic softening agent in the setting process of a finished product to obtain the plain fabric.
4. The method according to claim 3, wherein the apparatus of the dyeing and finishing process of step (4) is a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine.
5. Method according to claim 4, characterized in that said dying machine comprises a body circulation pump heater, a nozzle, a lifting device and a dosing cylinder.
6. The method as claimed in claim 3, wherein the dyeing temperature in step (4) is 120-140 ℃.
7. The method according to claim 3, wherein the dyeing pressure of step (4) is 2-3 bar.
8. The method as claimed in claim 3, wherein the dyeing bath of the step (4) has a pH of 4 to 4.5.
9. The method as claimed in claim 3, wherein the heat-setting temperature in step (4) is 160-180 ℃.
10. The method as claimed in claim 3, wherein the dyeing process of the dyeing and finishing process of step (4) further requires the addition of a leveling agent.
11. The method of claim 3, wherein step (4) dyeing and finishing process: the blank is refined, the blank is dyed at 140 ℃ under the pressure of 2-3bar, the pH value is 4-4.5, the blank is heat-set at 180 ℃ under the pressure of 160-3 bar, the blank is washed by water in a dye vat, and hydrophilic softening agent is added after the cloth is dried, so that the plain-color fabric is obtained.
12. Use of a fabric according to claim 1 or 2 or produced by a method according to any one of claims 3 to 11 for making a garment.
13. Use according to claim 12, wherein the garment is a shirt.
CN201811255044.3A 2018-10-26 2018-10-26 Terylene warp-knitted plain fabric and production method thereof Active CN109082768B (en)

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