CN109403096B - Terylene warp-knitted stripe fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents

Terylene warp-knitted stripe fabric and production method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN109403096B
CN109403096B CN201811255062.1A CN201811255062A CN109403096B CN 109403096 B CN109403096 B CN 109403096B CN 201811255062 A CN201811255062 A CN 201811255062A CN 109403096 B CN109403096 B CN 109403096B
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fabric
dyeing
yarn
cdp
machine
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CN109403096A (en
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张贵
王思捷
谢香娇
皮建兵
李明辉
李成炳
付永津
郑锋
王建昆
秦文利
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Intertai Panyu Textile Printing And Dyeing Co ltd
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Intertai Panyu Textile Printing And Dyeing Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B1/00Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
    • D06B1/02Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating by spraying or projecting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B23/00Component parts, details, or accessories of apparatus or machines, specially adapted for the treating of textile materials, not restricted to a particular kind of apparatus, provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B21/00
    • D06B23/20Arrangements of apparatus for treating processing-liquids, -gases or -vapours, e.g. purification, filtration or distillation
    • D06B23/22Arrangements of apparatus for treating processing-liquids, -gases or -vapours, e.g. purification, filtration or distillation for heating
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/52Polyesters
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/02After-treatment
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides a polyester warp-knitted striped fabric and a production method thereof, wherein the fabric uses modified polyester (CDP) and common Polyester (PET) with different dyeing properties as raw materials, matches with processed yarn DTY and straight yarn FDY, and dyes cationic dye only for coloring the modified polyester (CDP).

Description

Terylene warp-knitted stripe fabric and production method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a polyester warp-knitted stripe fabric and a production method thereof.
Background
The traditional shirts, especially the business shirts, basically require good stiffness and shape-keeping property, so the woven fabric is the best choice, especially the pure cotton woven fabric, and still occupies a larger market share due to soft hand feeling and comfortable wearing. However, the woven fabric is easy to wrinkle and has no elastic constraint feeling in wearing and washing processes, which is also a defect of the woven fabric structure. The knitted fabric structure is formed by bending yarns into loops by using a knitting needle, and the loops are mutually sleeved in series, so that the knitted fabric structure is rich in ductility, and a knitted shirt is favored. The weft knitted shirt is soft, close fitting, comfortable and free to wear, but is less stiff and smooth and dimensionally stable than a woven shirt, so that the application to shirt fabrics is limited. The warp knitted fabric has relatively stable structure and moderate elasticity, can overcome the defect of easy wrinkling of the woven fabric, and has the advantages of softness, comfort, free stretching and the like of the knitted fabric, so that the warp knitted shirt fabric is more in line with the trend of a new generation of high-grade shirt fabric.
The terylene warp-knitted fabric is woven by low-elasticity terylene yarns with the same denier number or is formed by interweaving low-elasticity terylene yarns with different denier numbers as raw materials, the common weave is a warp plain weave combining a warp plain weave and a warp velvet weave, the fabric is dyed to form a plain color fabric, the design and color have plain color hidden strips, hidden grids, plain color bright strips, bright grids, plain color hidden flowers, bright flowers and the like, and the fabric has flat and stiff cloth surface, bright color, and has the advantages of thick type, medium-thick type and thin type. The thin fabric is mainly used as the fabric of shirts and skirts; the medium-thick type and thick type can be used as the fabrics of men and women overcoat, wind coat, upper garment, suit, trousers, etc.
CN101736508A discloses a processing method of warp-knitted super-soft grid knitted polyester fabric, which comprises the following steps: selecting and warping raw materials, namely selecting surface layer tissue raw materials and bottom layer tissue raw materials, and warping the selected raw materials of the surface layer tissue and the bottom layer tissue respectively; weaving, namely weaving the selected and warped raw materials of the surface and bottom layer tissues by a warp knitting machine to obtain grey cloth; dyeing, namely dyeing the grey cloth to obtain dyed grey cloth; and (4) after finishing, namely performing after finishing on the dyed grey cloth to obtain the warp-knitted super-soft-lattice knitted polyester fabric. CN103859664B discloses a super cotton-like/fine-denier moisture-conducting terylene comfortable mercerized velvet warp-knitted fabric processing technology, which comprises a super cotton-like fiber technology, a fine-denier moisture-conducting and elasticizing terylene filament elasticizing technology, a warping technology, a warp-knitted fabric weaving technology, a warp-knitted fabric dyeing technology and a warp-knitted fabric finishing technology. The invention adopts the fine denier terylene with the moisture-conducting function and the super cotton-like fiber yarn to be interwoven, and utilizes the procedures of imported TM2 series high-grade warp knitting machine weaving, polyether modified organic silicon finishing agent hydrophilic soft finishing and the like to successfully develop the super cotton-like/fine denier moisture-conducting terylene comfortable mercerized velvet warp-knitted fabric with excellent wearability. CN103243473B discloses a production method of a flower-colored silver silk warp-knitted fabric, which sequentially comprises the following steps: raw material inspection, warping, weaving on a loom, preshrinking shearing, dyeing, sizing and inspection, which is characterized in that: knitting by adopting four guide bars, wherein the first guide bar is fully penetrated with polyester filaments, and a multi-needle warp flat structure is adopted; the second guide bar fully penetrates polyester filaments and adopts a warp-flat structure; the third guide bar 1 is threaded with 5 hollow nylon monofilaments and twisted yarns of silver yarns, and a variable weft insertion structure is adopted; and the fourth guide bar is fully penetrated with spandex yarns and adopts a warp flat structure. The fabric produced by the method has rich colors, wear resistance, warp resistance and good coating property. However, the fabric in the prior art has poor stability, poor wrinkle resistance and complex and complicated preparation process and needs to be further improved.
In conclusion, the polyester warp-knitted fabric which is good in stability, low in elongation and moderate in elasticity is developed, is used for manufacturing high-grade shirts, and has wide application prospect and great market value.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects and actual requirements of the prior art, the invention provides a polyester warp-knitted striped fabric and a production method thereof, the fabric takes modified polyester (CDP) and common Polyester (PET) with different dyeing properties as raw materials, matched with processed yarn DTY and straight yarn FDY, dyed by cationic dye only used for coloring the CDP, optimized weaving process, adjusted guide bar number, yarn preparation, yarn threading mode and yarn laying motion rule, and each step has synergistic effect under each condition, and finally produced into the striped fabric with excellent performance, thereby having wide application prospect and great market value.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect, the invention provides a polyester warp-knitted stripe fabric, which is prepared by knitting modified polyester (CDP) and common Polyester (PET) with different dyeing properties as raw materials, matching with processed yarn DTY and straight yarn FDY, and using cationic dye only for coloring the CDP, wherein the fabric is knitted through a front comb GB1, a middle comb GB2 and a rear comb GB3 of a single-needle-bed warp knitting machine; the GB1 and the GB2 adopt a chaining tissue, the rear comb GB3 adopts a warp-diagonal tissue, and a cationic dye is selected for dyeing CDP components during dyeing.
In the invention, in long-term production practice, in order to develop a stable and quick-drying striped fabric with excellent performance, the inventor carefully studies the process flow, selects a high-quality fabric, uses two polyester filaments CDP and PET with different dyeing properties as raw materials, matches with a processing yarn DTY and a straight yarn FDY, dyes a cationic dye only for coloring the CDP, adopts a chaining structure in GB1 and GB2, adopts a warp oblique structure in GB3, optimizes the production and processing technology, adjusts the number of guide bars, yarn configuration, yarn threading mode and yarn laying motion rule, has synergistic effect under each condition in each step, strictly controls the process parameters, finally prepares the quick-drying fabric with good stability, low elongation and moderate elasticity, and has wide application prospect and great market value.
Preferably, the raw materials are PET FDY, CDP FDY and PET DTY; wherein, the PET FDY is the yarn of GB1, the CDP FDY is the yarn of GB2, and the PET DTY is the yarn of GB 3.
Wherein the DTY refers to polyester low stretch yarn, also called draw textured yarn; FDY means a filament, also called fully drawn yarn; CDP is modified dacron, namely cation dyeable polyester fiber; terylene is an important variety in synthetic fibers and is the trade name of polyester fibers in China. The fiber is prepared by using Purified Terephthalic Acid (PTA) or dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) and ethylene glycol (MEG) as raw materials, performing esterification or ester exchange and polycondensation reaction to prepare fiber-forming high polymer, namely polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and spinning and post-processing the fiber. The polyester filament yarn is selected, so that the defects that the cotton fabric is easy to wrinkle, deform and wear-resistant are overcome, and the advantages of good deformation resistance, easy washing and quick drying of the polyester are also exerted.
Wherein the raw materials are as follows:
(GB1) PET FDY (common Terylene straight filament)
(GB2) CDP FDY (modified polyester straight yarn)
(GB3) PET DTY (common polyester processing yarn)
The fabric provided by the invention has a stripe effect, polyester filaments selected by combining with the practical application of the fabric comprise CDP/PET matched processing filaments (DTY) and straight Filaments (FDY), modified polyester (CDP) is prepared by adding a sulfonic monomer on the molecular chain of conventional Polyester (PET) through a polycondensation method, the modified polyester filaments (CDP) can adsorb cationic dye after containing sulfonic group, and the common Polyester (PET) has compact structure and can not be colored without the sulfonic monomer.
Preferably, the threading method of GB1 is to thread three empty threads, the threading method of GB2 is to thread three empty threads, and the threading method of GB3 is to thread full threads.
Preferably, the yarn laying number of GB1 is 1-0/0-1//, the yarn laying number of GB2 is 1-0/0-1//, and the yarn laying number of GB3 is 1-0/3-4//.
Preferably, the delivery capacity of GB1 is 1000-1050mm/rack, for example, 1000mm/rack, 1010mm/rack, 1020mm/rack, 1030mm/rack, 1040mm/rack or 1050 mm/rack.
The delivery capacity of GB2 is 1000-1060mm/rack, for example, 1000mm/rack, 1010mm/rack, 1020mm/rack, 1030mm/rack, 1040mm/rack, 1050mm/rack or 1060 mm/rack.
The delivery amount of GB3 is 2100-.
Preferably, the finished CPI of the fabric is 56-62 columns, and may be, for example, 56 columns, 57 columns, 58 columns, 59 columns, 60 columns, 61 columns or 62 columns.
The finished product WPI of the fabric is 30-35 lines, and can be 30 lines, 31 lines, 32 lines, 33 lines, 34 lines or 35 lines.
The gram weight of the fabric is 120-124g/m2It may be, for example, 120g/m2、121g/m2、122g/m2、123g/m2Or 124g/m2
Wherein CPI is the number of courses in the fabric within 1 inch and WPI is the number of wales in the fabric within 1 inch.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method of producing a facing material according to the first aspect, comprising the steps of:
(1) selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar number of 3bars, and the machine speed of 1100-;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn threading method of GB1 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, and the let-off quantity is 1000-;
the yarn threading method of GB2 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, and the let-off amount is 1000-;
the threading method of GB3 is full threading, the yarn laying number is 1-0/3-4//, and the let-off amount is 2100-;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 5.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY (GB3) as raw materials, adopting a chain knitting structure for GB1 and GB2, adopting a warp oblique structure for GB3, and knitting to obtain a blank;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: and refining, dyeing and heat setting the blank, and finally adding a hydrophilic softening agent into the finished product setting to obtain the fabric.
The fabric adopts a warp-knitted oblique chain weave structure, is fully penetrated by GB3, is penetrated by GB1/GB2 according to a certain sequence, selects two polyester filaments of CDP and PET, and forms a stripe effect by utilizing the difference of dyeing properties of the polyester filaments; the fabric adopts a single cationic dye component in the dyeing process, and the CDP is only colored by the cationic dye, so that different colors and white matching stripe effects can be obtained after dyeing; GB1/GB2 adopts a chaining structure, vertical stripes are clear, and the width of the vertical stripes depends on the number of yarn passes of CDP.
Preferably, the dye dyed in step (4) is a cationic dye.
Preferably, the temperature of the dyeing in step (4) is 115-120 ℃, and may be 115 ℃, 116 ℃, 117 ℃, 118 ℃, 119 ℃ or 120 ℃, for example.
Preferably, the dyeing pressure in step (4) is 2.5-3bar, for example 2.5bar, 2.7bar, 2.8bar, 2.9bar or 3 bar.
Preferably, the dyeing bath pH of the dyeing in step (4) is 2.5-4.5, and may be, for example, 2.5, 2.7, 2.9, 3, 3.3, 3.5, 3.7, 4.1, 4.3, or 4.5.
Preferably, the heat-setting temperature in step (4) is 160-.
Problems to be noticed when knitting
a. Attention needs to be paid to a warping process, and when the CDP/PET mixed yarn pan head is finished, the tension of the two yarns needs to be adjusted due to the difference of the boiling water shrinkage rates of the two yarns, so that the tension of each yarn is ensured to be consistent; the raw materials are terylene, static electricity is generated in the production process, and an antistatic agent and an ionization type static electricity eliminator are properly added.
b. The let-off quantity and the tension of the cloth roller are adjusted according to different fabric weave structures and actual conditions, so that the gray fabric is smooth; the on-machine tension is adjusted, and the phenomenon that the weaving is smoothly carried out due to defects such as hairiness on the cloth surface, broken holes and the like even when yarns are broken due to the fact that the yarn network points are off-line or single fibers are broken due to overlarge tension is avoided. Meanwhile, the temperature of the workshop should be controlled to be about 25 ℃, and the humidity should be controlled to be (65 +/-5)%.
c. In order to ensure that the longitudinal stripes are vertical and clear, the sending amount of GB2 is as short as possible.
d. When the fabric blank is woven, the fabric edge is specially kept slightly widened, and a temple device is used; the temple devices are adopted on two sides of the machine, so that tension sudden change when the blank cloth is taken off the machine is reduced, the cloth is pulled open as much as possible, and the stress of a coil is more uniform; without the edge supporting device, the two sides of the grey cloth are twisted by at least 1 inch of cloth veins, which affects the appearance.
As a preferred technical scheme, a method for preparing the fabric according to the first aspect specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar book of 3bars and the machine speed of 1100-;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn threading method of GB1 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, and the let-off quantity is 1000-;
the yarn threading method of GB2 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, and the let-off amount is 1000-;
the threading method of GB3 is full threading, the yarn laying number is 1-0/3-4//, and the let-off amount is 2100-;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 5.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY (GB3) as raw materials, adopting a chain knitting structure for GB1 and GB2, adopting a warp oblique structure for GB3, and knitting to obtain a blank;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: and refining the blank by adopting a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, dyeing at the high temperature of 115-120 ℃ under the pressure of 2.5-3bar and the pH value of a dyeing bath of 2.5-4.5, dyeing CDP by adopting cationic dye, performing heat setting at the temperature of 160-180 ℃, and finally adding a hydrophilic softening agent in the finished product setting to obtain the fabric.
The present invention adopts a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, said machine is formed from machine body circulating pump heater, nozzle, lifting device and feeding cylinder, the fabric can be repeatedly circularly run in the machine body in the form of rope-like slack, and continuously can be impacted and soaked by dyeing liquor, so that the fabric colour is uniform and its permeability is good.
The following matters should be noted during dyeing and finishing:
a. the grey cloth must be thoroughly refined to remove the oil adhered to the surface of the fiber.
b. During dyeing, the dyeing rate is controlled, and on one hand, the dye is favorably and uniformly adsorbed; secondly, chicken paw prints and wrinkle prints are prevented from being generated; in addition, the leveling agent is used for cooperating with the heating rate to reduce dyeing defects.
c. Hydrophilic processing is needed in the dyeing and finishing process, so that the moisture absorption is better.
d. In order to improve the hand feeling, a hydrophilic softener is required, but the dosage of the softener is not too high, so that the hydrophilicity of the fabric is influenced or the sticky feeling of the fabric surface is caused.
e. The speed of the machine is determined by the gram weight of the fabric during heat setting.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the stripe fabric provided by the invention has clear stripes, soft hand feeling, good crease resistance, moderate elasticity and elongation within 30%; the shrinkage is within +/-1.5 percent, and the dimensional stability is good; the yarn hooking grade is about 3.5, the performance is better, the quick drying time is less than 25min, and the fabric has quick drying property and is suitable for wearing in spring and summer.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a microscope image of a striped fabric of the present invention;
fig. 2 is a real image of the stripe fabric of the present invention.
Detailed Description
To further illustrate the technical means and effects of the present invention, the following further describes the technical solutions of the present invention by way of specific embodiments with reference to the drawings, but the present invention is not limited to the scope of the embodiments.
Example 1
(1) Selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar book of 3bars and the machine speed of 1200 r/min;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the threading method of GB1 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off amount is 1010mm/rack, the number of the threading yarns is 420, and the number of the pan heads is 4;
the threading method of GB2 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1000mm/rack, the number of the threading is 140, and the number of the pan heads is 4;
the threading method of GB3 is full threading, the yarn laying number is 1-0/3-4//, the let-off amount is 2222mm/rack, the number of threading is 560, and the number of pan heads is 4;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 5.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY (GB3) as raw materials, adopting a chain knitting structure for GB1 and GB2, adopting a warp oblique structure for GB3, and knitting to obtain a blank;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: refining the blank by adopting a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, dyeing the blank at high temperature of 118 ℃ and high pressure of 2.8bar, dyeing CDP by adopting cationic dye, carrying out heat setting at high temperature of 170 ℃ by using a dye bath pH of 4, and finally adding a hydrophilic softening agent in the finished product setting process to obtain the finished product.
The invention adopts a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine which comprises a machine body circulating pump heater, a nozzle, a lifting device, a feeding cylinder and the like; the fabric is repeatedly circulated in the machine in a rope-like loose mode and is continuously impacted and soaked by the dye liquor, so that the fabric is uniform in color and good in permeability.
Problems to be noticed when knitting
a. Attention needs to be paid to a warping process, and when the CDP/PET mixed yarn pan head is finished, the tension of the two yarns needs to be adjusted due to the difference of the boiling water shrinkage rates of the two yarns, so that the tension of each yarn is ensured to be consistent; the raw materials are terylene, static electricity is generated in the production process, and an antistatic agent and an ionization type static electricity eliminator are properly added.
b. The let-off quantity and the tension of the cloth roller are adjusted according to different fabric weave structures and actual conditions, so that the gray fabric is smooth; the on-machine tension is adjusted, and the phenomenon that the weaving is smoothly carried out due to defects such as hairiness on the cloth surface, broken holes and the like even when yarns are broken due to the fact that the yarn network points are off-line or single fibers are broken due to overlarge tension is avoided. Meanwhile, the temperature of the workshop should be controlled to be about 25 ℃, and the humidity should be controlled to be (65 +/-5)%.
c. In order to ensure that the longitudinal stripes are vertical and clear, the sending amount of GB2 is as short as possible.
d. When the fabric blank is woven, the fabric edge is specially kept slightly widened, and a temple device is used; the temple devices are adopted on two sides of the machine, so that tension sudden change when the blank cloth is taken off the machine is reduced, the cloth is pulled open as much as possible, and the stress of a coil is more uniform; without the edge supporting device, the two sides of the grey cloth are twisted by at least 1 inch of cloth veins, which affects the appearance.
The following matters should be noted during dyeing and finishing:
a. the grey cloth must be thoroughly refined to remove the oil adhered to the surface of the fiber.
b. During dyeing, the dyeing rate is controlled, and on one hand, the dye is favorably and uniformly adsorbed; secondly, chicken paw prints and wrinkle prints are prevented from being generated; in addition, the leveling agent is used for cooperating with the heating rate to reduce dyeing defects.
c. Hydrophilic processing is needed in the dyeing and finishing process, so that the moisture absorption is better.
d. In order to improve the hand feeling, a hydrophilic softener is required, but the dosage of the softener is not too high, so that the hydrophilicity of the fabric is influenced or the sticky feeling of the fabric surface is caused.
e. The speed of the machine is determined by the gram weight of the fabric during heat setting.
As shown in figure 1, the microscopic picture of the fabric is shown, GB1/GB2 is 3 white 1 black after being dyed, GB3 is full white, the obtained black and white alternate longitudinal stripes are obtained, and the physical picture is shown in figure 2, the stripes are clear and have no mottle.
Example 2
(1) Selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar book of 3bars and the machine speed of 1100 r/min;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the threading method of GB1 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1000mm/rack, the number of the threading yarns is 420, and the number of the pan heads is 4;
the threading method of GB2 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1000mm/rack, the number of the threading is 140, and the number of the pan heads is 4;
the threading method of GB3 is full threading, the yarn laying number is 1-0/3-4//, the let-off quantity is 2100mm/rack, the number of threading is 560, and the number of pan heads is 4;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 5.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY (GB3) as raw materials, adopting a chain knitting structure for GB1 and GB2, adopting a warp oblique structure for GB3, and knitting to obtain a blank;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: refining the blank by adopting a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, dyeing at high temperature of 115 ℃ and high pressure, dyeing CDP by adopting cationic dye with the pressure of 2.5bar and the pH value of a dye bath of 3.5, carrying out heat setting at high temperature of 160 ℃, and finally adding a hydrophilic softening agent in the finished product process to obtain the finished product.
The invention adopts a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine which comprises a machine body circulating pump heater, a nozzle, a lifting device, a feeding cylinder and the like. The fabric is repeatedly circulated in the machine in a rope-like loose mode and is continuously impacted and soaked by the dye liquor, so that the fabric is uniform in color and good in permeability.
Problems to be noticed when knitting
a. Attention needs to be paid to a warping process, and when the CDP/PET mixed yarn pan head is finished, the tension of the two yarns needs to be adjusted due to the difference of the boiling water shrinkage rates of the two yarns, so that the tension of each yarn is ensured to be consistent; the raw materials are terylene, static electricity is generated in the production process, and an antistatic agent and an ionization type static electricity eliminator are properly added.
b. The let-off quantity and the tension of the cloth roller are adjusted according to different fabric weave structures and actual conditions, so that the gray fabric is smooth; the on-machine tension is adjusted, and the phenomenon that the weaving is smoothly carried out due to defects such as hairiness on the cloth surface, broken holes and the like even when yarns are broken due to the fact that the yarn network points are off-line or single fibers are broken due to overlarge tension is avoided. Meanwhile, the temperature of the workshop should be controlled to be about 25 ℃, and the humidity should be controlled to be (65 +/-5)%.
c. In order to ensure that the longitudinal stripes are vertical and clear, the sending amount of GB2 is as short as possible.
d. When the fabric blank is woven, the fabric edge is specially kept slightly widened, and a temple device is used; the temple devices are adopted on two sides of the machine, so that tension sudden change when the blank cloth is taken off the machine is reduced, the cloth is pulled open as much as possible, and the stress of a coil is more uniform; without the edge supporting device, the two sides of the grey cloth are twisted by at least 1 inch of cloth veins, which affects the appearance.
The following matters should be noted during dyeing and finishing:
a. the grey cloth must be thoroughly refined to remove the oil adhered to the surface of the fiber.
b. During dyeing, the dyeing rate is controlled, and on one hand, the dye is favorably and uniformly adsorbed; secondly, chicken paw prints and wrinkle prints are prevented from being generated; in addition, the leveling agent is used for cooperating with the heating rate to reduce dyeing defects.
c. Hydrophilic processing is needed in the dyeing and finishing process, so that the moisture absorption is better.
d. In order to improve the hand feeling, a hydrophilic softener is required, but the dosage of the softener is not too high, so that the hydrophilicity of the fabric is influenced or the sticky feeling of the fabric surface is caused.
e. The speed of the machine is determined by the gram weight of the fabric during heat setting.
The fabric obtained in this example was substantially the same as in example 1.
Example 3
(1) Selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar book of 3bars and the machine speed of 1300 r/min;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the threading method of GB1 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1050mm/rack, the number of the threading yarns is 420, and the number of the pan heads is 4;
the threading method of GB2 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, the let-off quantity is 1060mm/rack, the number of the threading yarns is 140, and the number of the pan heads is 4;
the threading method of GB3 is full threading, the yarn laying number is 1-0/3-4//, the let-off quantity is 2300mm/rack, the number of threading is 560, and the number of pan heads is 4;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 5.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY (GB3) as raw materials, adopting a chain knitting structure for GB1 and GB2, adopting a warp oblique structure for GB3, and knitting to obtain a blank;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: refining the blank by adopting a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, dyeing at high temperature of 120 ℃, dyeing CDP by adopting cationic dye with the pressure of 3bar and the pH value of a dye bath of 4.5, carrying out heat setting at 180 ℃, and finally adding a hydrophilic softening agent in the finished product process to obtain the finished product.
The present invention adopts a high-temperature high-pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, said machine is formed from machine body circulating pump heater, nozzle, lifting device and feeding cylinder, the fabric can be repeatedly circularly run in the machine body in the form of rope-like slack, and continuously can be impacted and soaked by dyeing liquor, so that the fabric colour is uniform and its permeability is good.
Problems to be noticed when knitting
a. Attention needs to be paid to a warping process, and when the CDP/PET mixed yarn pan head is finished, the tension of the two yarns needs to be adjusted due to the difference of the boiling water shrinkage rates of the two yarns, so that the tension of each yarn is ensured to be consistent; the raw materials are terylene, static electricity is generated in the production process, and an antistatic agent and an ionization type static electricity eliminator are properly added.
b. The let-off quantity and the tension of the cloth roller are adjusted according to different fabric weave structures and actual conditions, so that the gray fabric is smooth; the on-machine tension is adjusted, and the phenomenon that the weaving is smoothly carried out due to defects such as hairiness on the cloth surface, broken holes and the like even when yarns are broken due to the fact that the yarn network points are off-line or single fibers are broken due to overlarge tension is avoided. Meanwhile, the temperature of the workshop should be controlled to be about 25 ℃, and the humidity should be controlled to be (65 +/-5)%.
c. In order to ensure that the longitudinal stripes are vertical and clear, the sending amount of GB2 is as short as possible.
d. When the fabric blank is woven, the fabric edge is specially kept slightly widened, and a temple device is used; the temple devices are adopted on two sides of the machine, so that tension sudden change when the blank cloth is taken off the machine is reduced, the cloth is pulled open as much as possible, and the stress of a coil is more uniform; without the edge supporting device, the two sides of the grey cloth are twisted by at least 1 inch of cloth veins, which affects the appearance.
The following matters should be noted during dyeing and finishing:
a. the grey cloth must be thoroughly refined to remove the oil adhered to the surface of the fiber.
b. During dyeing, the dyeing rate is controlled, and on one hand, the dye is favorably and uniformly adsorbed; secondly, chicken paw prints and wrinkle prints are prevented from being generated; in addition, the leveling agent is used for cooperating with the heating rate to reduce dyeing defects.
c. Hydrophilic processing is needed in the dyeing and finishing process, so that the moisture absorption is better.
d. In order to improve the hand feeling, a hydrophilic softener is required, but the dosage of the softener is not too high, so that the hydrophilicity of the fabric is influenced or the sticky feeling of the fabric surface is caused.
e. The speed of the machine is determined by the gram weight of the fabric during heat setting.
The fabric obtained in this example was substantially the same as in example 1.
Example 4
The conditions were the same as in example 1 except that 3.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 3.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 3.6tex/36f PET DTY (GB3) were used as compared with example 1.
Example 5
The conditions were the same as in example 1 except that the threading method of GB1 was to thread five empty threads and GB2 was to thread two empty threads compared to example 1.
Example 6
Compared with example 1, the conditions are the same as example 1 except that no hydrophilic softener is added in the post-finishing process.
Comparative example 1
The conditions were the same as in example 1 except that 5.6tex/36f PET FDY was used for GB3 compared to example 1.
Comparative example 2
Compared with example 1, the conditions are the same as example 1 except that the disperse dye is selected as the dye.
Experimental detection
a. Tensile Properties
The tension testing method (Victoria's Secret customer special test) of the strain of the American ginseng, which is carried out by the American ginseng, the standard is to standardize and test the elongation of the woven or knitted elastic fabric under the appointed tension; the test specimen size was 9 x 3 inches, the face fabric of the examples and comparative examples was oriented in both the cross and machine directions, the tensile machine used was a Zwick/Roell H01-LLJ-004 tensile machine, a force of 7.5lb was used, the intermediate nip was 127mm, the draw speed was 20in/min, and the cycle draw was two times.
b. Shrinkage property
Referring to an AATCC-135 shrinkage test method, fabric pieces of not less than 55cm by 90cm are cut from the fabrics of the examples and the comparative examples along the warp and weft directions, marks are made, the length before washing is measured, and at least three pairs of samples are taken to ensure the accuracy of test results; washing by a standard program, wherein the washing condition is that the water temperature is 40 ℃, washing for 3 times, then draining, recording and measuring the length after washing after conditioning, calculating the shrinkage rate according to a formula, wherein the shrinkage is within +/-5%, the shrinkage is qualified, the smaller the value is, the better the shrinkage is, and the formula is as follows:
Figure BDA0001842526140000151
wherein S is the shrinkage, L1 is the length before washing, and L2 is the length after washing.
c. Performance of yarn hooking
Referring to the test method of BS-8479, namely the method for measuring the spinning tendency of textiles, namely the rotating chamber method, the fabrics of the examples and the comparative examples are subjected to yarn hooking test under a James Heal Snagging Tester, the size of a test sample is 140mm, the fabric is subjected to forward rotation of 50 turns and reverse rotation of 50 turns at the speed of 60r/min, the fabric is circulated for 10 times for 1000 turns, then the sample is taken out to be compared with a standard rating photo, and the yarn hooking grade is evaluated, wherein the grade is from 1 to 5, the grade 5 is optimal, and the grade 1 is worst.
d. Quick drying method
Referring to the LTD-32(Victoria's Secret customer test) drying test method, test samples of examples and comparative examples were cut into heavy cakes, dropped to 0.02-0.03g, and the cake weight of the samples was recorded every 2 minutes, respectively, the time from wet to complete drying of the face fabric was recorded, and the time for quick drying the face fabric was required to be 30 minutes or less.
e. Hand feeling
Selecting 3 textile industry technicians, performing touch feeling on the three fabrics, and comprehensively evaluating the hand feeling rating of the fabrics, wherein the rating is 1-5, and the rating is the best 5.
The test results of the fabric properties are shown in table 1;
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0001842526140000152
Figure BDA0001842526140000161
As can be seen from Table 1, the fabrics produced by the technical schemes provided by the invention in the embodiments 1-3 have the advantages of excellent comprehensive performance, low shrinkage rate, good yarn hooking performance and short quick-drying time, wherein the performance of the embodiment 1 is optimal, the quick-drying time is 18min, and the yarn hooking grade is 3-3.5; and GB3 of comparative example 1 adopts 5.6tex/36f PETDDY, and the hand feeling of the finished product is poor; the shrinkage, the elongation or the yarn hooking performance of the obtained fabric are reduced to different degrees by changing the weaving parameters and the weaving process in the weaving machine and the finishing process in the embodiment 6; comparative example 2 shows that the stripe effect cannot be formed without adopting a cationic dye, and the method provided by the invention has the advantages that the processes in the steps are synergistic and matched with each other, and the whole body is pulled by one step, so that the production of the stripe fabric with excellent performance is realized together.
In conclusion, the invention provides a polyester warp-knitted striped fabric and a production method thereof, the fabric takes two polyester filaments CDP and PET with different dyeing properties as raw materials, matches with processed yarn DTY and straight yarn FDY, dyes cationic dye only for coloring CDP, optimizes weaving process, adjusts guide bar number, yarn configuration, yarn threading mode and yarn laying motion rule, and finally produces the striped fabric with excellent properties, thereby having wide application prospect and great market value.
The applicant states that the present invention is illustrated in detail by the above examples, but the present invention is not limited to the above detailed methods, i.e. it is not meant that the present invention must rely on the above detailed methods for its implementation. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that any modification of the present invention, equivalent substitutions of the raw materials of the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., are within the scope and disclosure of the present invention.

Claims (9)

1. The polyester warp-knitted striped fabric is characterized in that modified polyester CDP and common polyester PET with different dyeing properties are used as raw materials, processed yarn DTY and straight yarn FDY are matched, and cationic dye only used for coloring the modified polyester CDP is used for dyeing; the fabric is knitted by a front comb GB1, a middle comb GB2 and a rear comb GB3 of a single needle bed warp knitting machine; the GB1 and the GB2 adopt a chaining tissue, the rear comb GB3 adopts a warp-diagonal tissue, and a cationic dye is selected to dye a modified terylene CDP component during dyeing;
the preparation method of the fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar number of 3bars, and the machine speed of 1100-;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn threading method of GB1 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, and the let-off quantity is 1000-;
the yarn threading method of GB2 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, and the let-off amount is 1000-;
the threading method of GB3 is full threading, the yarn laying number is 1-0/3-4//, and the let-off amount is 2100-;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY, 5.6tex24f CDP FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw materials, adopting chain weaving organization for GB1 and GB2, adopting oblique weaving organization for GB3, and weaving to obtain a blank;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: and refining, dyeing and heat setting the manufactured blank, and finally adding a hydrophilic softening agent in the finished product process to obtain the fabric.
2. The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the raw materials are GB 1: polyester straight yarn PET FDY; GB 2: modified polyester straight yarn CDP FDY; GB 3: and (3) processing polyester yarns PET DTY.
3. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric has a finished CPI of 56-62 columns, a finished WPI of 30-35 rows, and a grammage of 120-2
Wherein CPI is the number of courses in the fabric within 1 inch and WPI is the number of wales in the fabric within 1 inch.
4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the dye dyed in step (4) is a cationic dye.
5. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the dyeing temperature in step (4) is 115-120 ℃.
6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing pressure in step (4) is 2.5-3 bar.
7. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the dyeing bath pH of the dyeing in the step (4) is 2.5-4.5.
8. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the heat-setting temperature in step (4) is 160-180 ℃.
9. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises in particular the steps of:
(1) selecting a weaving device: the tricot warp knitting machine has the machine number of 28 needles/25.4 mm, the machine breadth of 186', the guide bar number of 3bars, and the machine speed of 1100-;
(2) setting the computer-loading parameters: the yarn threading method of GB1 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, and the let-off quantity is 1000-;
the yarn threading method of GB2 is to thread three empty yarns, the yarn laying number is 1-0/0-1//, and the let-off amount is 1000-;
the threading method of GB3 is full threading, the yarn laying number is 1-0/3-4//, and the let-off amount is 2100-;
(3) manufacturing a blank: taking 5.6tex/36f PET FDY, 5.6tex24f CDP FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY as raw materials, adopting chain weaving organization for GB1 and GB2, adopting oblique weaving organization for GB3, and weaving to obtain a blank;
(4) a dyeing and finishing process: refining the blank, dyeing at the temperature of 115-120 ℃ and the pressure of 2.5-3bar, dyeing CDP by adopting cationic dye, wherein the pH value of a dyeing bath is 2.5-4.5, heat setting at the temperature of 160-180 ℃, and finally adding a hydrophilic softener in the finished product setting process to obtain the stripe fabric.
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