CN109403096A - A kind of terylene warp knit strip fabric and its production method - Google Patents
A kind of terylene warp knit strip fabric and its production method Download PDFInfo
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- CN109403096A CN109403096A CN201811255062.1A CN201811255062A CN109403096A CN 109403096 A CN109403096 A CN 109403096A CN 201811255062 A CN201811255062 A CN 201811255062A CN 109403096 A CN109403096 A CN 109403096A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B21/08—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B1/00—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
- D06B1/02—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating by spraying or projecting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B23/00—Component parts, details, or accessories of apparatus or machines, specially adapted for the treating of textile materials, not restricted to a particular kind of apparatus, provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B21/00
- D06B23/20—Arrangements of apparatus for treating processing-liquids, -gases or -vapours, e.g. purification, filtration, distillation
- D06B23/22—Arrangements of apparatus for treating processing-liquids, -gases or -vapours, e.g. purification, filtration, distillation for heating
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
- D06P3/52—Polyesters
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/02—After-treatment
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
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Abstract
The present invention provides a kind of terylene warp knit strip fabric and its production methods, the fabric is raw material using dyeability different modified dacron (CDP) and ordinary polyester (PET), arrange in pairs or groups processed filament DTY and raw silk rings FDY, using only to modified dacron (CDP) colouring dye of positive ion dye, the present invention passes through selected raw material, optimize weaving, adjust sley bar number, yarn configuration, mode of entrying and the band yarn characteristics of motion, each each condition of step is synergistic, final production obtains function admirable, stability is good, the moderate warp knit strip fabric of elasticity, it has broad application prospects and huge market value.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to textile technology field more particularly to a kind of terylene warp knit strip fabric and its production methods.
Background technique
Traditional shirt especially business shirt, basic demand stiffness and shape-retaining ability are good, and therefore, shuttle-woven fabric is most preferably to select
It selects, especially pure cotton shuttle-woven fabric, still occupies the biggish market share because soft, comfortable and easy to wear.But it is worn and washes
During washing, it is easy corrugation, nonelastic to have sense of restraint, this is also a defect of shuttle-woven fabric fabric construction.And knitted fabric
Structure is mutually to go here and there yarn bends lopping using knitting needle to cover, and rich in ductility, knitted shirt starts to be favored.Weft knitting
Knitted shirt is soft, personal, and comfortable and easy to wear, movable but stiffness, dimensional stability are poorer than tatting shirt freely, therefore in shirt
Application on fabric is restricted.And knitted fabric structure is relatively stable, elasticity is moderate, and the easy wrinkle of shuttle-woven fabric can be overcome to lack
Point, and have the advantages that be knitted the soft comfortable of fabric, stretching, extension freely, therefore warp knit shirt fabric more meets high-grade shirt of new generation
The trend of fabric.
Terylene warp-knitted face fabric is to be woven with the low-elasticity terylene fibre of same Denier, or make raw material friendship with the low stretch yarn of different deniers
Knit, common tissue be warp plain stitch with through suede tissue combine through velveteen tissue, fabric is formed through dyeing process again
Plain color fabric, pattern have the hidden item of plain color, hidden lattice, the bright item of plain color, bright lattice, and plain color is secretly colored, bright to be spent, and the cloth cover of this fabric is flat
Very, bright in colour, it is divided into thicker, medium-thick type and slim.Slim is mainly used as shirt, skirt fabric；Medium-thick type, thicker
It then can be used as the fabrics such as men and women's overcoat, wind coat, upper dress, suit, trousers.
CN101736508A discloses a kind of processing method of warp knitting ultra-soft grid knitted polyester fabric, comprising the following steps:
Raw material selection and warping, choose surface layer tissue raw material and bottom layer tissue raw material, and to the raw material in selected face, bottom layer tissue
Warping is carried out respectively；Weaving, to selection and the raw material in face, bottom layer tissue after warping weaved by tricot machine warp knit, obtain
Fabric；Dyeing, to piece dyeing finishing, obtains dyed gray；Final finishing obtains warp knitting ultra-soft grid knitted dyed gray final finishing
Polyester fabric.CN103859664B discloses a kind of super imitative cotton/fine-denier conduct wet polyester comfort type mercerising suede warp-knitted face fabric processing work
Skill, including super imitative cotton fiber technique, fine-denier lead it is wet plus play polyester filament texturing craft, warping technology, warp-knitted face fabric weaving process,
Warp-knitted face fabric dyeing and warp-knitted face fabric finishing technique.The invention uses fine denier polyester and super imitative cotton fibre with wet guiding function
Dimension yarn interweaves, and utilizes the high machine tricot machine weaving of import TM2 series and the hydrophilic soft finish of organic silicon modified by polyether finishing agent
Etc. processes successfully develop the excellent super imitative cotton of wearability/fine-denier conduct wet polyester comfort type mercerising suede warp-knitted face fabric.
CN103243473B discloses a kind of production method of patterned polyester yarn warp knitting fabric, successively the following steps are included: ingredient inspection, whole
Through, looming weaving, preshrunk cropping, dyeing, sizing and inspection, it is characterised in that: woven using four sley bars, the first sley bar, which is completely worn, to be washed
Synthetic fibre long filament, using spininess warp plain stitch；Second sley bar completely wears polyester filament, using warp plain stitch；Third sley bar 1 wears 5 empty polyamide fibres
The twisting silk of monofilament and filamentary silver, using variation inlaid thread tissue；4th sley bar completely wears spandex thread, using warp plain stitch.Institute of the present invention
The facing material design and colour for stating method production is abundant, wear-resisting through good with, covering property.But the fabric stability of the above-mentioned prior art is bad, resists
Bad, the preparation process very complicated of wrinkle property, needs to be further increased.
In conclusion researching and developing, a kind of stability is good, and elongation is low, the moderate terylene warp-knitted face fabric of elasticity, for making height
Shelves shirt, has broad application prospects and huge market value.
Summary of the invention
In view of the deficiencies of the prior art and actual demand, the present invention provides a kind of terylene warp knit strip fabric and its production
Method, the fabric is with the different modified dacron of dyeability (CDP) and ordinary polyester (PET) for raw material, and arrange in pairs or groups processed filament DTY
Optimize weaving using only dyeing to the dye of positive ion of CDP colouring with raw silk rings FDY, adjustment sley bar number, yarn are matched
It makes, mode of entrying and the band yarn characteristics of motion, each each condition synergy of step, final production obtain the stripe surface of function admirable
Material, has broad application prospects and huge market value.
To achieve this purpose, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme:
In a first aspect, the present invention provides a kind of terylene warp knit strip fabric, the fabric modification different with dyeability
Terylene (CDP) and ordinary polyester (PET) are raw material, and arrange in pairs or groups processed filament DTY and raw silk rings FDY, using only to the cation of CDP colouring
Dyestuff is dyed, and the fabric is woven by the preceding comb GB1 of single needle bar warp knitting machine, middle comb GB2 and rear comb GB3；Wherein,
The GB1 and GB2 uses pillar stitch, it is rear comb GB3 and use tiltedly is organized, when dyeing, selects dye CDP ingredient on the dye of positive ion.
In the present invention, inventor, to research and develop a kind of function admirable, stablizes the stripe surface of rapid-curing cutback again in long term production
Material, process flow of concentrating on studies, selected high-quality fabric, using two kinds of different polyester filament CDP and PET of dyeability as raw material,
Arrange in pairs or groups processed filament DTY and raw silk rings FDY, and using only dyeing to the dye of positive ion of CDP colouring, GB1 and GB2 use chaining group
It knits, GB3 is used and tiltedly organized, and optimizes production and processing technology, adjustment sley bar number, yarn configuration, mode of entrying and band yarn movement rule
Rule, each condition of each step is synergistic, strict control process parameter, is finally prepared that stability is good, and elongation is low, and elasticity is suitable
In quick-drying shell fabric, have broad application prospects and huge market value.
Preferably, the raw material is PET FDY, CDP FDY and PET DTY；Wherein, PET FDY is the yarn of GB1, CDP
FDY is the yarn of GB2, and PET DTY is the yarn of GB3.
Wherein, the DTY refers to low elastic polyester filament, is also draw textured yarn；FDY refers to long filament, is also fully drawn yarn；
CDP is modified dacron, that is, cation dyeable dacron；Terylene is an important species in synthetic fibers, is China's polyester
The product name of fiber.It is with p-phthalic acid (PTA) or dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) (DMT) and ethylene glycol (MEG) for original
Material is through fiber-forming polymer --- polyethylene terephthalate (PET) prepared by esterification or transesterification and polycondensation reaction, warp
Fiber made of spinning and post-processing.Polyester filament is selected, cotton fabric is on the one hand compensated for and creases easily, is easily-deformable, is not wear-resisting
Etc. deficiency, on the other hand also played terylene itself be preferably unlikely to deform, quick-drying washable advantage.
Wherein, the raw material are as follows:
(GB1) PET FDY (ordinary polyester raw silk rings)
(GB2) CDP FDY (modified dacron raw silk rings)
(GB3) PET DTY (ordinary polyester processed filament)
Fabric provided by the invention has stripe effect, has CDP/PET in conjunction with the polyester filament of the practical use selection of fabric
Collocation processed filament (DTY) and raw silk rings (FDY), modified dacron (CDP) are added on conventional polyester (PET) strand by polycondensation method
Sulfonic monomer is added to be made, modified polyester filament (CDP) can commonly be washed after containing sulfonic group with Liquidity limit dyestuff
Synthetic fibre (PET) can not paint because of close structure, no sulfonic group monomer.
Preferably, the method for entrying of the GB1 is to wear one, three skies, and the method for entrying of the GB2 is to wear a sky three
The method of entrying of root, the GB3 is completely to wear.
Preferably, the band yarn number of the GB1 be 1-0/0-1//, the band yarn number of the GB2 be 1-0/0-1//, GB3
Band yarn number be 1-0/3-4//.
Preferably, the warp run-in of the GB1 be 1000-1050mm/rack, such as can be 1000mm/rack,
1010mm/rack, 1020mm/rack, 1030mm/rack, 1040mm/rack or 1050mm/rack.
The warp run-in of the GB2 be 1000-1060mm/rack, such as can be 1000mm/rack, 1010mm/rack,
1020mm/rack, 1030mm/rack, 1040mm/rack, 1050mm/rack or 1060mm/rack.
The warp run-in of the GB3 be 2100-2300mm/rack, such as can be 2100mm/rack, 2150mm/rack,
2200mm/rack, 2250mm/rack or 2300mm/rack.
Preferably, the finished product finished product CPI of the fabric be 56-62 column, such as can be 56 column, 57 column, 58 column, 59 column,
60 column, 61 column or 62 column.
The finished product WPI of the fabric is 30-35 row, such as can be 30 rows, 31 rows, 32 rows, 33 rows, 34 rows or 35 rows.
The grammes per square metre of the fabric is 120-124g/m2, such as can be 120g/m2、121g/m2、122g/m2、123g/m2Or
124g/m2。
Wherein, the CPI is row number of the fabric in 1 inch, and the WPI is coil of the fabric in 1 inch
Stringer number.
Second aspect, the present invention provide a kind of method for producing fabric as described in relation to the first aspect, include the following steps:
(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar number
For 3bars, machine speed is 1100-1300r/min；
(2) set factors is arranged: the method for entrying of the GB1 is to wear one, three skies, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//,
Warp run-in is 1000-1050mm/rack；
The method of entrying of the GB2 is to wear three, sky, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000-
1060mm/rack；
The GB3 entry method be completely wear, band yarn number be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2100-2300mm/rack；
(3) blank is made: with 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 5.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 5.6tex/
36f PET DTY (GB3) is raw material, and GB1 and GB2 use pillar stitch, and GB3 is used and tiltedly organized, and braiding obtains blank；
(4) dyeing and finishing technology: blank being refined, is dyed, heat setting, and finally addition hydrophily is soft in finished product setting
The fabric is obtained after agent.
Fabric of the present invention is used through oblique pillar stitch's structure, and GB3 is completely worn, and GB1/GB2 entrys in certain sequence, is selected
Two kinds of polyester filaments of CDP and PET form stripe effect using its dyeability difference；Sun is used during this dyeing fabric
Ionic dye single component, because the dye of positive ion only paints to CDP, available different colours and this white is taken after dyeing
With an effect；GB1/GB2 uses pillar stitch, and vertical stripe is vertical and clear, and vertical stripe width depends on CDP and entrys radical.
Preferably, the dyestuff of step (4) described dyeing is the dye of positive ion.
Preferably, the temperature of step (4) described dyeing be 115-120 DEG C, such as can be 115 DEG C, 116 DEG C, 117 DEG C,
118 DEG C, 119 DEG C or 120 DEG C.
Preferably, the pressure of step (4) described dyeing be 2.5-3bar, such as can be 2.5bar, 2.7bar,
2.8bar, 2.9bar or 3bar.
Preferably, the Value in Dyeing Process of step (4) described dyeing is 2.5-4.5, for example, can be 2.5,2.7,2.9,3,
3.3,3.5,3.7,3.7,4.1,4.3 or 4.5.
Preferably, the temperature of step (4) described heat setting is 160-180 DEG C, such as can be 160 DEG C, 165 DEG C, 170
DEG C, 175 DEG C or 180 DEG C.
The problem of should be noted that when braiding
A. it need to be noticed when warping technology, when whole CDP/PET mixes yarn coiled hair, because two kinds of yarn boiling water shrinkages are variant,
It needs to adjust the two yarn tension, guarantees the uniform tension in order of every yarn；Raw material is all terylene, and production process can generate electrostatic, is fitted
Electrostatic agent is eliminated when being added, and fills ionization type Xelminator.
B. according to the different sizes for adjusting warp run-in and batching roller tension with actual conditions of fabric institutional framework, guarantee
Fabric is smooth；Adjust warp tension, avoid it is excessive cause network of yarns point off-grid or single fiber to be broken, cause cloth cover to have filoplume, very
To causing yarn breakage there are the faults such as broken hole, woven go on smoothly is influenced.The temperature in workshop should be controlled at 25 DEG C or so simultaneously,
Humidity should be controlled in (65 ± 5) %.
C. to guarantee that vertical stripe is vertical and clear, GB2 warp run-in is short as far as possible.
D. it is slightly wide that selvedge is given special heed to when upper woven base, and uses side shoring device；Side shoring device is used on machine both sides,
So that the tension spikes under fabric when machine reduce, cloth will be pulled open as far as possible, and make coil stress more evenly；Side shoring device is not added
Words, fabric both sides at least 1 inch of woven design distortion, influence appearance.
As optimal technical scheme, a method of fabric as described in relation to the first aspect is prepared, is specifically comprised the following steps:
(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar book
For 3bars, machine speed is 1100-1300r/min；
(2) set factors is arranged: the method for entrying of the GB1 is to wear one, three skies, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//,
Warp run-in is 1000-1050mm/rack；
The method of entrying of the GB2 is to wear three, sky, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000-
1060mm/rack；
The GB3 entry method be completely wear, band yarn number be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2100-2300mm/rack；
(3) blank is made: with 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 5.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 5.6tex/
36f PET DTY (GB3) is raw material, and GB1 and GB2 use pillar stitch, and GB3 is used and tiltedly organized, and braiding obtains blank；
(4) dyeing and finishing technology: high temperature and pressure jet overflow dyeing machine is used, blank is refined, 115-120 DEG C of height of high temperature
It is padded color, the Value in Dyeing Process of pressure 2.5-3bar, dyeing are 2.5-4.5, CDP dyed using the dye of positive ion,
160-180 DEG C of heat setting, finally addition hydrophilic softener obtains the fabric in finished product setting.
The present invention uses high temperature and pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, which is filled by body circulating pump heater, nozzle, promotion
It sets, the composition such as the cylinder that feeds, fabric iterative cycles operating in the form of rope form relaxation in machine, constantly by the impact of dye liquor and leaching
Stain, therefore, fabric color uniformly and good penetrability.
It should be noted that following item when dyeing and finishing:
A. fabric must be thoroughly concise, to remove the finish that fiber surface attaches.
When b. dyeing, dyeing rate is controlled, first is that being conducive to dyestuff reaches uniform adsorption；Two prevent chicken feet print and wrinkle
The generation of print；In addition, cooperateing with heating rate using levelling agent, dye defect is reduced.
C. hydrophilic processing is carried out in dyeing and finishing process, make hygroscopicity more preferably.
D. in order to improve feel, it is necessary to use hydrophilic softener, but soft dosage should not be excessive, otherwise will affect fabric
Hydrophily or so that cloth cover is had viscid sense.
E. notice that row machine speed need to be depending on fabric grammes per square metre size when heat setting.
Compared with prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
The clear-cut texture of strip fabric provided by the invention, soft, wrinkle resistance is good, elongation within 30%,
Elasticity is moderate；For washing shrinkage within ± 1.5%, dimensional stability is good；Yarn hook grade is 3.5 or so, performance preferably, when rapid-curing cutback
Between be lower than 25min, have rapid-drying properties, be suitble to spring and summer dress.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is the microscope figure of strip fabric of the invention；
Fig. 2 is the pictorial diagram of strip fabric of the invention.
Specific embodiment
Further to illustrate technological means and its effect adopted by the present invention, below in conjunction with attached drawing and by specific real
Mode to further illustrate the technical scheme of the present invention is applied, but the present invention is not limited in scope of embodiments.
Embodiment 1
(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar book
For 3bars, machine speed is 1200r/min；
(2) set factors is arranged: the method for entrying of the GB1 is to wear one, three skies, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//,
Warp run-in is 1010mm/rack, and radical of entrying is 420, and coiled hair number is 4；
The method of entrying of the GB2 is to wear three, sky, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000mm/
Rack, radical of entrying are 140, and coiled hair number is 4；
The GB3 entry method be completely wear, band yarn number be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2222mm/rack entrys
Radical is 560, and coiled hair number is 4；
(3) blank is made: with 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 5.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 5.6tex/
36f PET DTY (GB3) is raw material, and GB1 and GB2 use pillar stitch, and GB3 is used and tiltedly organized, and braiding obtains blank；
(4) dyeing and finishing technology: using high temperature and pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, blank refined, 118 DEG C of high pressure dyeings of high temperature,
Pressure is 2.8bar, is dyed using the dye of positive ion to CDP, and dye bath pH is 4,170 DEG C of heat settings of high temperature, finally in finished product
Finished product is obtained after adding hydrophilic softener in shaping process.
The present invention uses high temperature and pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, which is filled by body circulating pump heater, nozzle, promotion
It sets, the composition such as the cylinder that feeds；Fabric iterative cycles operating in the form of rope form relaxation in machine, constantly by the impact of dye liquor and leaching
Stain, therefore, fabric color uniformly and good penetrability.
The problem of should be noted that when braiding
A. it need to be noticed when warping technology, when whole CDP/PET mixes yarn coiled hair, because two kinds of yarn boiling water shrinkages are variant,
It needs to adjust the two yarn tension, guarantees the uniform tension in order of every yarn；Raw material is all terylene, and production process can generate electrostatic, is fitted
Electrostatic agent is eliminated when being added, and fills ionization type Xelminator.
B. according to the different sizes for adjusting warp run-in and batching roller tension with actual conditions of fabric institutional framework, guarantee
Fabric is smooth；Adjust warp tension, avoid it is excessive cause network of yarns point off-grid or single fiber to be broken, cause cloth cover to have filoplume, very
To causing yarn breakage there are the faults such as broken hole, woven go on smoothly is influenced.The temperature in workshop should be controlled at 25 DEG C or so simultaneously,
Humidity should be controlled in (65 ± 5) %.
C. to guarantee that vertical stripe is vertical and clear, GB2 warp run-in is short as far as possible.
D. it is slightly wide that selvedge is given special heed to when upper woven base, and uses side shoring device；Side shoring device is used on machine both sides,
So that the tension spikes under fabric when machine reduce, cloth will be pulled open as far as possible, and make coil stress more evenly；Side shoring device is not added
Words, fabric both sides at least 1 inch of woven design distortion, influence appearance.
It should be noted that following item when dyeing and finishing:
A. fabric must be thoroughly concise, to remove the finish that fiber surface attaches.
When b. dyeing, dyeing rate is controlled, first is that being conducive to dyestuff reaches uniform adsorption；Two prevent chicken feet print and wrinkle
The generation of print；In addition, cooperateing with heating rate using levelling agent, dye defect is reduced.
C. hydrophilic processing is carried out in dyeing and finishing process, make hygroscopicity more preferably.
D. in order to improve feel, it is necessary to use hydrophilic softener, but soft dosage should not be excessive, otherwise will affect fabric
Hydrophily or so that cloth cover is had viscid sense.
E. notice that row machine speed need to be depending on fabric grammes per square metre size when heat setting.
The microscope figure of fabric as shown in Fig. 1, GB1/GB2 is black for 3 white 1 after dyeing, GB3 Quan Bai, acquired
The alternate vertical stripe of black and white, pictorial diagram is as shown in Fig. 2, clear-cut texture non-variegation.
Embodiment 2
(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar book
For 3bars, machine speed is 1100r/min；
(2) set factors is arranged: the method for entrying of the GB1 is to wear one, three skies, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//,
Warp run-in is 1000mm/rack, and radical of entrying is 420, and coiled hair number is 4；
The method of entrying of the GB2 is to wear three, sky, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000mm/
Rack, radical of entrying are 140, and coiled hair number is 4；
The GB3 entry method be completely wear, band yarn number be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2100mm/rack entrys
Radical is 560, and coiled hair number is 4；
(3) blank is made: with 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 5.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 5.6tex/
36f PET DTY (GB3) is raw material, and GB1 and GB2 use pillar stitch, and GB3 is used and tiltedly organized, and braiding obtains blank；
(4) dyeing and finishing technology: using high temperature and pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, blank refined, 115 DEG C of high pressure dyeings of high temperature,
CDP is dyed using the dye of positive ion, pressure 2.5bar, dye bath pH be 3.5,160 DEG C of heat settings of high temperature, finally at
Finished product is obtained after adding hydrophilic softener during product.
The present invention uses high temperature and pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, which is filled by body circulating pump heater, nozzle, promotion
It sets, the composition such as the cylinder that feeds.Fabric iterative cycles operating in the form of rope form relaxation in machine, constantly by the impact of dye liquor and leaching
Stain, therefore, fabric color uniformly and good penetrability.
The problem of should be noted that when braiding
A. it need to be noticed when warping technology, when whole CDP/PET mixes yarn coiled hair, because two kinds of yarn boiling water shrinkages are variant,
It needs to adjust the two yarn tension, guarantees the uniform tension in order of every yarn；Raw material is all terylene, and production process can generate electrostatic, is fitted
Electrostatic agent is eliminated when being added, and fills ionization type Xelminator.
B. according to the different sizes for adjusting warp run-in and batching roller tension with actual conditions of fabric institutional framework, guarantee
Fabric is smooth；Adjust warp tension, avoid it is excessive cause network of yarns point off-grid or single fiber to be broken, cause cloth cover to have filoplume, very
To causing yarn breakage there are the faults such as broken hole, woven go on smoothly is influenced.The temperature in workshop should be controlled at 25 DEG C or so simultaneously,
Humidity should be controlled in (65 ± 5) %.
C. to guarantee that vertical stripe is vertical and clear, GB2 warp run-in is short as far as possible.
D. it is slightly wide that selvedge is given special heed to when upper woven base, and uses side shoring device；Side shoring device is used on machine both sides,
So that the tension spikes under fabric when machine reduce, cloth will be pulled open as far as possible, and make coil stress more evenly；Side shoring device is not added
Words, fabric both sides at least 1 inch of woven design distortion, influence appearance.
It should be noted that following item when dyeing and finishing:
A. fabric must be thoroughly concise, to remove the finish that fiber surface attaches.
When b. dyeing, dyeing rate is controlled, first is that being conducive to dyestuff reaches uniform adsorption；Two prevent chicken feet print and wrinkle
The generation of print；In addition, cooperateing with heating rate using levelling agent, dye defect is reduced.
C. hydrophilic processing is carried out in dyeing and finishing process, make hygroscopicity more preferably.
D. in order to improve feel, it is necessary to use hydrophilic softener, but soft dosage should not be excessive, otherwise will affect fabric
Hydrophily or so that cloth cover is had viscid sense.
E. notice that row machine speed need to be depending on fabric grammes per square metre size when heat setting.
The fabric that the present embodiment obtains and embodiment 1 are almost the same.
Embodiment 3
(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar book
For 3bars, machine speed is 1300r/min；
(2) set factors is arranged: the method for entrying of the GB1 is to wear one, three skies, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//,
Warp run-in is 1050mm/rack, and radical of entrying is 420, and coiled hair number is 4；
The method of entrying of the GB2 is to wear three, sky, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1060mm/
Rack, radical of entrying are 140, and coiled hair number is 4；
The GB3 entry method be completely wear, band yarn number be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2300mm/rack entrys
Radical is 560, and coiled hair number is 4；
(3) blank is made: with 5.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 5.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2) and 5.6tex/
36f PET DTY (GB3) is raw material, and GB1 and GB2 use pillar stitch, and GB3 is used and tiltedly organized, and braiding obtains blank；
(4) dyeing and finishing technology: using high temperature and pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, blank refined, high temperature of 120 DEG C high pressure dyeing,
CDP is dyed using the dye of positive ion, pressure 3bar, dye bath pH is 4.5,180 DEG C of heat settings, finally in Finished product processThe
Finished product is obtained after middle addition hydrophilic softener.
The present invention uses high temperature and pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, which is filled by body circulating pump heater, nozzle, promotion
It sets, the composition such as the cylinder that feeds, fabric iterative cycles operating in the form of rope form relaxation in machine, constantly by the impact of dye liquor and leaching
Stain, therefore, fabric color uniformly and good penetrability.
The problem of should be noted that when braiding
A. it need to be noticed when warping technology, when whole CDP/PET mixes yarn coiled hair, because two kinds of yarn boiling water shrinkages are variant,
It needs to adjust the two yarn tension, guarantees the uniform tension in order of every yarn；Raw material is all terylene, and production process can generate electrostatic, is fitted
Electrostatic agent is eliminated when being added, and fills ionization type Xelminator.
B. according to the different sizes for adjusting warp run-in and batching roller tension with actual conditions of fabric institutional framework, guarantee
Fabric is smooth；Adjust warp tension, avoid it is excessive cause network of yarns point off-grid or single fiber to be broken, cause cloth cover to have filoplume, very
To causing yarn breakage there are the faults such as broken hole, woven go on smoothly is influenced.The temperature in workshop should be controlled at 25 DEG C or so simultaneously,
Humidity should be controlled in (65 ± 5) %.
C. to guarantee that vertical stripe is vertical and clear, GB2 warp run-in is short as far as possible.
D. it is slightly wide that selvedge is given special heed to when upper woven base, and uses side shoring device；Side shoring device is used on machine both sides,
So that the tension spikes under fabric when machine reduce, cloth will be pulled open as far as possible, and make coil stress more evenly；Side shoring device is not added
Words, fabric both sides at least 1 inch of woven design distortion, influence appearance.
It should be noted that following item when dyeing and finishing:
A. fabric must be thoroughly concise, to remove the finish that fiber surface attaches.
When b. dyeing, dyeing rate is controlled, first is that being conducive to dyestuff reaches uniform adsorption；Two prevent chicken feet print and wrinkle
The generation of print；In addition, cooperateing with heating rate using levelling agent, dye defect is reduced.
C. hydrophilic processing is carried out in dyeing and finishing process, make hygroscopicity more preferably.
D. in order to improve feel, it is necessary to use hydrophilic softener, but soft dosage should not be excessive, otherwise will affect fabric
Hydrophily or so that cloth cover is had viscid sense.
E. notice that row machine speed need to be depending on fabric grammes per square metre size when heat setting.
The fabric that the present embodiment obtains and embodiment 1 are almost the same.
Embodiment 4
Compared with Example 1, in addition to selecting 3.6tex/36f PET FDY (GB1), 3.6tex24f CDP FDY (GB2)
Outside with 3.6tex/36f PET DTY (GB3), other conditions are same as Example 1.
Embodiment 5
Compared with Example 1, in addition to the method for entrying of GB1 is to wear two, five skies, GB2 is worn outside five, two skies, other
Condition is same as Example 1.
Embodiment 6
Compared with Example 1, other than hydrophilic softener is not added in postfinishing process, other conditions are same as Example 1.
Comparative example 1
Compared with Example 1, other than GB3 is using 5.6tex/36f PET FDY, other conditions are same as Example 1.
Comparative example 2
Compared with Example 1, other than dyestuff selects disperse dyes, other conditions are same as Example 1.
Experiment detection
A. tensile property
Referring to LTD-03 pull force test method (Victoria's Secret client special test), this standard is that specification is surveyed
Elongation of the elastic fabric of examination tatting or knitting in the case where arranging pulling force；Test sample size is 9*3 inches, embodiment and comparison
The fabric of example takes transverse and longitudinal both direction, and the pulling force instrument used is the H01-LLJ-004 puller system of Zwick/Roell, uses
The power of 7.5lb, centre folder is away from for 127mm, and tensile speed 20in/min, cyclic tension is twice.
B. it shrinks performance
With reference to AATCC-135 washing shrinkage test method, the fabric of embodiment and comparative example is cut out along direction of warp and weft not small
It in the pieces of cloth of 55cm*90cm, marks and measures and wash preceding length, to guarantee that test result accuracy at least samples three pairs；Through
Standardization program is washed, and wash conditions are 40 DEG C of water temperature, is washed 3 times, is then dried, after record measurement is washed after conditioning
Length is calculated from the formula washing shrinkage, shrinks within ± 5%, and it is all qualified to shrink, and the smaller shrink of value is better, and formula is as follows:
In formula, S is washing shrinkage, and L1 is to wash preceding length, and L2 is to wash rear length.
C. yarn hook performance
With reference to BS-8479 the measuring method rotating room method of tendency " textile reel off raw silk from cocoons " test method, in James Heal
The fabric of yarn hook testing example and comparative example is carried out under Snagging Tester instrument, test sample is having a size of 140*
140mm carries out rotating forward 50 turns under 60r/min speed, inverts 50 turns, recycles 10 times, carries out 1000 turns altogether, then take out sample
Compared with standard grading photo, choose yarn hook grade, grade from 1-5 grades, 5 grades be it is best, 1 grade is worst.
D. rapid-drying properties
Referring to LTD-32 (Victoria's Secret client special test) dry test method, by embodiment and comparison
The test specimens of example cut weight cake, drip to 0.02-0.03g, record the cake weight of a sample at intervals of two minutes, record respectively fabric from
It moistens and is completely dried the time, quick-drying shell fabric drying time requires to be less than or equal to 30 minutes.
E. feel
3 textile industry technical staff are selected, touch perception are carried out to these three fabrics, comprehensive assessment fabric feeling is commented
Grade, 1-5 grades, 5 grades best.
The test result of fabric performance is shown in Table 1；
Table 1
As shown in Table 1, the fabric comprehensive performance that embodiment 1-3 is produced according to technical solution provided by the invention is tall and erect
More, washing shrinkage is low, and yarn hook performance is good, and the rapid-curing cutback time is short, and wherein the performance of embodiment 1 is best, and the rapid-curing cutback time is 18min, hooks
Yarn grade is 3-3.5；And the GB3 of comparative example 1 uses 5.6tex/36f PETFDY, finished product feel is deteriorated；Embodiment 4-5's is upper
Machine braided parameter and weaving change, the change of whole technique after embodiment 6, the washing shrinkage of obtained fabric, elongation or
There is different degrees of reduction in yarn hook performance；Comparative example 2 does not use the dye of positive ion that can not form stripe effect, shows the present invention
Each technique of each step of the method for offer is synergistic, is collocated with each other, pulls one hair and move the whole body, the common striped for realizing excellent performance
The production of fabric.
In conclusion the present invention provides a kind of terylene warp knit strip fabric and its production method, the fabric is with dyeability
Two kinds of polyester filaments CDP and PET that can be different be raw material, and arrange in pairs or groups processed filament DTY and raw silk rings FDY, using only to the sun of CDP colouring
Ionic dye is dyed, and optimizes weaving, adjustment sley bar number, yarn configuration, mode of entrying and the band yarn characteristics of motion are each to walk
Rapid each condition is synergistic, and final production obtains the strip fabric of function admirable, has broad application prospects and huge city
Field value.
The Applicant declares that the present invention is explained by the above embodiments method detailed of the invention, but the present invention not office
Be limited to above-mentioned method detailed, that is, do not mean that the invention must rely on the above detailed methods to implement.Technical field
Technical staff it will be clearly understood that any improvement in the present invention, equivalence replacement and auxiliary element to each raw material of product of the present invention
Addition, selection of concrete mode etc., all of which fall within the scope of protection and disclosure of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. a kind of terylene warp knit strip fabric, which is characterized in that the fabric is with the different modified dacron CDP of dyeability and general
Logical terylene PET is raw material, and arrange in pairs or groups processed filament DTY and raw silk rings FDY, using only to the dye of positive ion of modified dacron CDP colouring into
Row dyeing；The fabric is woven by the preceding comb GB1 of single needle bar warp knitting machine, middle comb GB2 and rear comb GB3；Wherein, described
GB1 and GB2 uses pillar stitch, it is rear comb GB3 and use tiltedly is organized, when dyeing, selects dye modified dacron CDP on the dye of positive ion
Ingredient.
2. fabric according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the raw material is respectively GB1: terylene raw silk rings PET FDY；
GB2: modified dacron raw silk rings CDP FDY；GB3: terylene processing wire PET DTY.
3. fabric according to claim 1 or 2, which is characterized in that the method for entrying of the GB1 is to wear one, three skies,
The method of entrying of the GB2 is to wear three, sky, and the method for entrying of the GB3 is completely to wear.
4. fabric according to any one of claim 1-3, which is characterized in that the band yarn number of the GB1 is 1-0/0-
1//, the band yarn number of the GB2 be 1-0/0-1//, the band yarn number of GB3 be 1-0/3-4//.
5. fabric described in any one of -4 according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the warp run-in of the GB1 is 1000-
The warp run-in of 1050mm/rack, the GB2 are 1000-1060mm/rack, and the warp run-in of the GB3 is 2100-2300mm/
rack。
6. fabric according to any one of claims 1-5, which is characterized in that the finished product finished product CPI of the fabric is 56-
62 column, the finished product WPI of the fabric are 30-35 row, and the grammes per square metre of the fabric is 120-124g/m2；
Wherein, the CPI is row number of the fabric in 1 inch, and the WPI is wale of the fabric in 1 inch
Number.
7. a kind of method of production fabric as described in any one of claim 1-7, which comprises the steps of:
(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar number is
3bars, machine speed are 1100-1300r/min；
(2) set factors is arranged: the method for entrying of the GB1 is to wear one, three skies, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//, the warp let-off
Amount is 1000-1050mm/rack；
The method of entrying of the GB2 is to wear three, sky, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000-1060mm/
rack；
The GB3 entry method be completely wear, band yarn number be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2100-2300mm/rack；
(3) it makes blank: being with 5.6tex/36f PET FDY, 5.6tex24f CDP FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY
Raw material, GB1 and GB2 use pillar stitch, and GB3 is used and tiltedly organized, and braiding obtains blank；
(4) dyeing and finishing technology: the blank of production being refined, is dyed, heat setting, and it is soft that hydrophily is finally added in Finished product processThe
Soft dose obtains the fabric.
8. the method according to the description of claim 7 is characterized in that the dyestuff of step (4) described dyeing is the dye of positive ion；
Preferably, the temperature of step (4) described dyeing is 115-120 DEG C；
Preferably, the pressure of step (4) described dyeing is 2.5-3bar；
Preferably, the Value in Dyeing Process of step (4) described dyeing is 2.5-4.5；
Preferably, the temperature of step (4) described heat setting is 160-180 DEG C.
9. method according to claim 7 or 8, which is characterized in that specifically comprise the following steps:
(1) braiding apparatus: Ke Lite tricot machine is selected, machine number is 28 needles/25.4mm, and machine breadth is 186 ", sley bar number is
3bars, machine speed are 1100-1300r/min；
(2) set factors is arranged: the method for entrying of the GB1 is to wear one, three skies, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//, the warp let-off
Amount is 1000-1050mm/rack；
The method of entrying of the GB2 is to wear three, sky, band yarn number be 1-0/0-1//, warp run-in 1000-1060mm/
rack；
The GB3 entry method be completely wear, band yarn number be 1-0/3-4//, warp run-in 2100-2300mm/rack；
(3) it makes blank: being with 5.6tex/36f PET FDY, 5.6tex24f CDP FDY and 5.6tex/36f PET DTY
Raw material, GB1 and GB2 use pillar stitch, and GB3 is used and tiltedly organized, and braiding obtains blank；
(4) dyeing and finishing technology: blank is refined, 115-120 DEG C of dyeing, pressure 2.5-3bar, using the dye of positive ion pair
CDP is dyed, and the Value in Dyeing Process of dyeing is 2.5-4.5, and 160-180 DEG C of heat setting is finally added in finished product shaping process
Hydrophilic softener obtains strip fabric.
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| CN109403096B (en) | 2021-03-09 |
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