CN107151855A - The method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer - Google Patents

The method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer Download PDF

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Publication number
CN107151855A
CN107151855A CN201710529683.3A CN201710529683A CN107151855A CN 107151855 A CN107151855 A CN 107151855A CN 201710529683 A CN201710529683 A CN 201710529683A CN 107151855 A CN107151855 A CN 107151855A
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yarn
cotton
fabric
20min
latitude
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CN107151855B (en
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王圣杰
凌良仲
刘莹莹
孙仁斌
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Jiangsu Yueda Home Textile Products Co., Ltd.
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JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C9/00Singeing
    • D06C9/02Singeing by flame
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/10Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen
    • D06L4/12Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen combined with specific additives
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/10Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen
    • D06L4/13Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen using inorganic agents
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/11Starch or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/327Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
    • D06M15/333Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/66Natural or regenerated cellulose using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton

Abstract

A kind of method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer:Warp thread is combed cotton yarn, 14.6tex, through it is close be 472/10cm;Weft yarn chooses three kinds of specification yarns, and latitude one is combing twine cotton, and 14.6tex*2, latitude two is air-flow spinning yarn, and 58.3tex, latitude three is air spinning twine cotton, and 58.3tex*2, filling density is 374/10cm;It is organized as the big Developing of Jacquard Weave of six layer tissues;Fabric width is 280cm;The weaving step of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer is:The warp thread through slurry connection and technique of gaiting and the weft yarn by kiering dyeing is sequentially passed through, after the big jacquard loom of arrow shaft is weaved, correct.

Description

The method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, the method for weaving of specifically a kind of big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer.
Background technology
With the fast development of modern science and technology and social economy, people's living standard is improved, and consumption idea is progressively to fashion Comfortably, the functionalization direction of health care is developed.Bed necessaries belong to rigid demand product, and people are only initially guarantor to the demand of bed necessaries Warm effect, nowadays as following the fashion, the symbolic product of high-quality life, bedding have been incorporated many streams of epochal character Row element, people also become more and more faster to the renewal speed of household bed necessaries.
Disposably it is made into using jacquard between the Multilayer plus material that every layer of yarn count density is different and is stiched together, every layer all There is binding place to prevent displacement, clear patterns.In six layer tissues every layer with different densities and the weft yarn of fineness, middle roving count is close Degree is small, and more outer layer yarn count is thinner, and density is bigger, can form air layer, and gas permeability is good, absorbing sweat, quick-drying, not sultry and warming.Six Layer tissue can make nexine be coated with full air, and the stitch weave of comfort multiplication junction again closely ties every layer Close, the material of sandwich construction passes through multiple washing, and more washing can be more soft, wash more fluffy and more fluffy sense of touch and pliability is become better and better. Fabric has good heat insulating ability, gas permeability, water imbibition and rapid-drying properties concurrently.On raw material, using purified cotton yarns, fine length and have Toughness, it is not easy to break, do not result in tiny lint and come off.In process of production, using environment-protective process, it is to avoid use fluorescer Etc. harmful material, environmental pollution is reduced.
Multilayer tissue's pattern fabric by two groups and warp thread more than two respectively with two groups and weft yarns more than two and Into being segmented into table, inner two aspects or many levels in institutional framework.With again through weight latitude pattern fabric compared with, multilayer tissue Pattern fabric adds the group number of yarn, therefore the choice increase on raw material and color matching through weft yarn.Utilize different groups Various colors can be shown by knitting structure change and its collocation, so that the color of multilayer tissue's pattern fabric is extremely enriched, can The complicated color representation of coloured image scene, oil painting, decoration painting is come out, can be applied in sofa fabric, bedcover, curtain and color images Jing Shang.
The content of the invention
This programme mainly studies the key technology of design and the production of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, develops multilayer Cotton jacquard carpet surface material, can according to color matching and patterning design different-style multilayer jacquard fabrics.The present invention focuses on fabric Specification, the design of flower pattern and color matching, are designed using the big Jacquard Weaving that matches, and the advantage of equipment is weaved etc. by company, is ground The big jacquard blanket of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer processed, can select different specification and yarn count, obtain the multilayer jacquard fabric that thickness differs.
Specification 280cm " the JC14.6tex that originally this project manufactures experimently × (JC14.6tex × 2 (color)+OEC58.3tex+ 472 × 374/10cm all-cotton yarn-dyeds of OEC58.3tex × 2+OEC58.3tex × 2+OEC58.3tex+JC14.6tex × 2) are more The big jacquard blanket fabric of layer.
A kind of big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, warp thread is combed cotton yarn, 14.6tex, through it is close be 472/10cm; Weft yarn chooses three kinds of specification yarns, and latitude one is combing twine cotton, and 14.6tex*2, latitude two is air-flow spinning yarn, 58.3tex, latitude three It is air spinning twine cotton, 58.3tex*2, filling density is 374/10cm;It is organized as the big Developing of Jacquard Weave of six layer tissues.Finished product width A width of 280cm.
A kind of production method of the fabric, step includes:
2) dyeing and finishing:Fabric, which is turned over, to be stitched → move back and boil → and shapes → softness → product inspection clot;
The step 1) in,
(1), warp thread through starch connection technique
Using sizing warper, a double-clip-double-nip starching mechanism has been added between the bobbin cradle and head of sectional warper With a set of drying cylinder formula drying mechanism.
From the PVA20550kg of complete alcoholysis, converted starch 50kg (converted starch preferably 123 type denaturation cornstarch, PVA polyvinyl alcohol, the preferred PVA205 of model), the temperature control of stock tank is at 35 DEG C~40 DEG C, and the control of slurries solid content is in 9%, slurry Liquid viscosity 8s~9s.Stock tank slurry temperature is below 50 DEG C, and slurry temperature is by mixing cirtern control.
The sizing warper uses Pneumatic Pressure, low after height before the pressure selection of squeezing roller.First squeezing roller pressure 0.44MPa, actual pressure about 3200N, using larger pressure, can make being impregnated with more preferably for warp thread, the second squeezing roller pressure 0.28MPa, actual pressure about 2100N, can improve yarn and be coated to.Squeezing roller pressure can be taken into account using pattern low after preceding height The enhancing of yarn and wear-resisting.Sized warp moisture regain is controlled 7.0% or so.Regain is too high, and yarn can be adhered, and is easily accumulated at menopause tablet Poly- flyings;Regain is too low, and brittle failure head can increase in weaving process.Drying room steam pressure will be according to the line density of yarn and yarn Radical determines, steam pressure is necessary≤0.3MPa.During start, the condensed water in drying cylinder is first bled off using steam pressure, otherwise Drying tube temperature may be caused not reach default requirement, cause yarn regain bigger than normal.In production process, spinner wants side to produce Frontier inspection looks into the regain of sizing, and regain is bigger than normal, can turn steam pressure down, and regain is less than normal, it is possible to increase steam pressure, but can not More than 0.3MPa.Beam of a loom withdrawal speed 70m/min, whole slurry speed 55m/min~60m/min.
(2), the kiering dyeing of weft yarn
Technological process:Raw yarn detects → singed → reeling → pre-treatment (kiering, bleaching) → dyeing → Final finishing → dehydration Strand → waxing → packaging and warehousing is fallen in drying → semi-finished product are detected →.
1st, raw yarn is detected
Raw yarn (no matter processing yarn or sell yarn) has to pass through strict detection, including strength, moisture regain, the twist, number, with And the dry cotton junction number of bar.
2nd, singe
After spinning processing, yam surface can produce many fine hair, and yarn need to be singed.Purified cotton yarns are singed use Gas singeing machine, 1000 ± 50 DEG C of singeing fire hole temperature, linear velocity 1000r/min.
3rd, reeling
Cylinder yarn after singing shakes into the reeled yarn of fixed frame length on reeling frame, to facilitate the following process such as yarn dyeing. Reeled yarn quality settings are often to twist 250g.
4th, pre-treatment (kiering, bleaching)
Technological process:Water inlet → addition scouring agent, soda ash, liquid caustic soda → plus hydrogen peroxide (8g/L, 95 DEG C, 20min) → add and ooze Saturating agent (0.5g/L, 90 DEG C, 20min) → hot water wash (70 DEG C, 10min) → pickling, enzyme wash (acetic acid 0.3g/L, 45 DEG C, 10min; Model TY cellulase 0.08g/L, 45 DEG C, 20min)
Technology preparation/(g/L)
5th, dye
Dyeing installation injecting type hank-dyeing machine
Technological process:Material → dyeing → plus salt promote dye (20min) → plus alkali fixation (75min) → discharge opeing → washing
Technology preparation (color matching of certain specific color)
Points for attention:Running check bundle dyeing situation is needed in dyeing course, to prevent yarn from twisting bad;Dyeing is needed after terminating Take out 1~2 reeled yarn to soap to color, prevent aberration excessive, and carry out complementary color in time.
6th, dyeing post processing
Technological process:Pickling (0.8g/L acetic acid, 40 DEG C, 20min) → hot water wash (95 DEG C, 20min, 2 times) → (type of soaping Number it is formulated for DZ-652 soaping agents 2g/L and model DA-701 soaping agents 2g/L) → cold water washes (normal temperature × 5min, 2 times) → to color → fixation (model DG-801 color fixing agent 3%, 45 DEG C, 20min) → softness (acetic acid 0.15g/L, 801 type softening agents 1.5g/L (optional eastern soft brand), 45 DEG C, 20min) → dehydration → drying
7th, dry
Dehydration after soap boiling, drying are dyed, is needed before drying to color, and determine every color fastness of yarn.Should if pinpointing the problems Return something for repairs in time, it is qualified after dried again.
8th, semi-finished product are detected
Single yarn stretches 6 times and takes its average value, is strongly not less than 3.5N, and staining fastness requirement reaches 3~4 grades, pH value control System is 7~8.
9th, fall to twist, wax (one-shot forming)
Yarn is being carried out falling to twist after the assay was approved, waxed.According to the difference of the count of yarn, processing speed is about 450r/ min。
(3), gait
Porter is that (tooth/2 inch) are 77#;Reed width is 290cm;Middle support is put at the reed width 150.6cm of the left side;Ground tissue is comprehensive The method of wearing is suitable wears;The comprehensive method of wearing of Selvage Stitch is suitable wears;Ground tissue it is comprehensive enter number be 1;Selvage Stitch it is comprehensive enter number be 1;Ground tissue reed enters number 3;It is 3 that Selvage Stitch reed, which enters number,;The menopause tablet method of wearing is 1,2,3,4,5,6;Using plastic heddle;
(4), arrow shaft dobby machine (can use 304 types) is weaved
Speed is 250rpm;Upper machine filling density is 364/10cm;The pattern that is open is jacquard head;Opening time is 315 degree; It is 65 degree to enter the sword time;It is 180 degree to connect the sword time;Pre-tension is 400kg;Temperature and relative humidity are 23 DEG C~27 DEG C respectively With 73%~79%;
(5), repair
Lump length 120m;Every overall length 240m;Every cloth weight 220kg;Into bag regain 9.5%;
The step 2) in,
(1), move back and boil
Technology preparation (/gL-1)
2000L type desizing enzyme (such as Novi's letter production) 1~3
Penetrating agent JFC (AEO) 2~3
Scouring agent (being applied to the refining agent of cotton yarn, no particular requirement) 5~10
PH value 6.5~7
Technological process:Warm water (70~80 DEG C) → pad is padded to move back boil liquid (two leachings two, which are rolled, (first soaks, rolls once, then soaking, roll Once), pick-up 80%~100%) → decatize (100~102 DEG C, 60min) → hot water wash → cold water is washed
(2), shape
In order to not influence the feel and wearability of fabric, setting temperature can not be too high, is typically advisable with 150~160 DEG C, 45~60s of time.
(3), soft finish
Using cellulase (β-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-glucan -4- glucan hydrolases) soft finish, technology preparation is:
Embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the present invention is further described:
Trial-manufacture technology
The 1 sample technical indicator to be reached
The big jacquard blanket fabric technical indicator to be reached of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer of this project research and development has:1st, each layer of fabric It can organically be combined together and not make binding place excessive.2nd, the inherent index and presentation quality of fabric quality meet relevant criterion Grade A requirement.
2 product standards
(1) GB18401-2010 national general safety technical code for textile products B classes
(2) FZ/T 61005-2006 cotton blankets
The technical problem solved in 3 trial-productions
The main research of project is the design of specification, tissue and the flower pattern of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, Initial idea just hopes that making can directly replace the fabric of summer cool quilt, and the big jacquard blanket fabric of this all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer belongs to a kind of High-grade novelty fabric.In the design and production process of fabric, in the case where the requirement of multilayer tissue is consistent with cloth cover looped weft, To denting, latitude and synthesis group is selected to be woven with special requirement, this is the difficult point of the fabric design.
(1) how fabric specification, which designs, can meet grammes per square metre and cloth cover effect, and how fabric longitude and latitude yarn count and thread count match somebody with somebody Conjunction can bring out the best in each other, the ratio reasonable disposition between thread count per Rotating fields.
(2) how pre-treatment can meet weaving and cloth cover effect to yarn.Due to weft yarn have a kind of specification be dyed yarn, then remaining Non- dyed yarn yarn be required for as boiled yarn.
(3) several layers of tissues is selected, which kind of tissue binding can meet process specification.With reference to the design for selecting latitude, institutional framework For six layer tissues, using three kinds of specification weft yarns, by dyed yarn and beyber yarn reasonable disposition, fabric is set to have levels, third dimension is strong, in Interbed yarn is hidden wherein, sandwich bending, has a kind of laid effect of innervation, fabric has attractive in appearance and comfortable effect concurrently.
(4) weaving process of single shaft weaving multiple layer jacquard fabric, the reasonable design of six layer tissues, it is ensured that when single shaft is weaved Every layer of shrinkage is consistent.
(5) select the configuration of suitable type, how drawn needle can meet design through close specification requirement.
The present invention 6 layer tissue structures of design, upper epidermis and layer use plain weave, and weft density sets of a relatively high, Structure relative close, inner 2,3,4,5 layers fluffy structure is formed as weft yarn by low weft density, thicker air-flow spinning yarn, Suitable floral designs are designed, decorative pattern Ridge tracing is stitch weave, by the reasonable layout of binding place, makes 6 laminated reason bindings, And certain decorative pattern is formed, so as to reach light and soft fluffy plentiful, quality, moisture absorbing and sweat releasing, the resultant effect of Comfortable attractive.Product exists Jacquard loom last time shaping, technological process is short, and less energy consumption, added value is high.For the two-sided of blanket fabric while the spy shown , if upper epidermis and layer select the weft yarn of different colours, there is double-sided effect in point.
2nd, trial-manufacturing process
1 design concept
Feature Development Rule according to the big jacquard blanket of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer:
(1) a kind of blanket of sandwich construction is produced using existing loom, the imparting fluffy plentiful, quality of fabric is light and soft, inhale It is wet perspire, the performance of Comfortable attractive, add practicality and the aesthetic property of blanket.
(2) choose cotton make raw material, woven pure-cotton fabric it is very many to the benefit of human body, human body can be maintained The metabolic environment of itself, breathes freely comfortable, without harmful substance.Consumer can be met to " multi-functional, multipurpose " Pursue, be preferable household textiles in modern life at home.
(3) air layer face fabric shows the abundant appearance of concavo-convex skin texture, and gracefulness is created by jacquard weave weaving And dynamic texture, and inject a scientific and technological texture for soft fabric.
2 raw material specifications are designed
In order to highlight the class and comfort level of fabric, warp thread uses combed cotton 14.6tex (40S) yarn, and weft yarn uses three kinds The cotton yarn of specification, upper epidermis, the weft yarn of layer are combed cotton 14.6tex*2 (40S/2), inner two, inner five layers of weft yarn For air-flow spinning yarn 58.3tex (10S), inner three, inner four layers of weft yarn be air-flow spinning yarn 58.3tex*2 (10S/2), I takes charge of Grope by drawing a design, it is final to determine that fabric specification is 280cm JC14.6 (40S) * (JC14.6tex*2 according to grammes per square metre and style (color)+OEC58.3tex+OEC58.3tex*2+OEC58.3tex*2+OEC58.3tex+JC14.6te x*2) 472*374 roots/ 10cm colors knit big jacquard weave
The technological design of 3 multi-layer blanket fabrics
The specification of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer of the present invention:472/10cm of warp-wise density, latitudinal density 374 Root/10cm, six layer tissue design methods of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer are as follows:
(1) in the case where specifications design is good, total quantity of warps is calculated for 13200.
(2) MULTILAYER COMPOSITE tissue is designed:By repeatedly groping, finally through it is close press first, second, third and fourth, five, six layers through close The ratio between be followed successively by 2:2:2:2:1:2, when doing tissue in this arrangement ratio of warp thread, third and fourth layer is middle two layers first directly conjunction Synthesized into a double-layered structure, then with remaining tissue.
(3) latitude is selected to set:It is 3 according to the ratio between actual filling density:1:1:1:1:3, second, five layers of weft yarn specification it is consistent, therefore Latitude is selected to be set to latitude two, third and fourth layer directly synthesizes a double-layered structure, therefore the 4th layer of third layer selects latitude to be set to Latitude three, latitude one is set as JC14.6tex*2 (dyed yarn), and latitude two is set as 58.3tex, and latitude three is set as 58.3tex*2, and latitude four is set It is set to JC14.6tex*2, is designed according to process specification, selects latitude to be set as the latitude of four latitude of latitude one latitude, two latitudes, four latitudes, one latitude, three latitudes, three latitude one Two latitudes 41 are circulated.
(4) tissue is synthesized:According to above-mentioned longitude and latitude ratio and arrangement, tissue synthesis is carried out with Zhejiang University's longitude and latitude CAD software.
(5) artistic conception is designed
Artistic conception design designs the length and width of flower pattern, because final use will make blanket, so having to flower pattern It is certain to require, it is exactly that the place of binding can not account for too many area, but have enough bindings again, it can neither exactly destroy fabric It is soft with it is fluffy, Multilayer plus material is combined again, when making this geometrical pattern, initial estimated flower pattern Wide height is all 15cm, and 5040 pin/145 are made with reference to dress, and maximum spends a width of 88.28cm, and the present invention is done in a complete flower pattern circulation Make six small design even to shine, finely tune as the wide 14.71cm of flower pattern, according to being 695 pins through the close thread number for calculating and going out needs, It is vertical lattice number 690 according to tissue and through close fine setting.Similarly, the length of flower pattern about 15cm, according to needed for filling density calculates flower pattern length The thread number wanted is 561 pins, is changed to lined number 560.
(5) scale is designed
This pattern fabric is weaved on arrow shaft ALPHA type pin electronic jacquard machines, and it is 5040 that I, which takes charge of the existing thread number made that fills, Pin, has 14 row, 360 rows, the pin of side pin 168,8 pins of shuttle box pin.Drawn needle, conjunctive tissue and warp are carried out now according to grammes per square metre Close, effective thread number is 4140 pins, to take out 900 line pins.
(6) Selvage Stitch, generation line version are designed:Selvage Stitch, generation line version are rationally designed according to picking and weft density.This project It is that five times latitude galassings on five are used according to picking and weft density, then generates line version.Enter the generation line version work(of jacquard weaving CAD system Can, click on after " generation line version ", system automatically forms line version.
(7) arrow shaft is weaved:Loom is the rapier loom that extra width single loom beam matches somebody with somebody electronic jacquard, and door width is 110 inches. Woven technological design is:472/10cm of warp-wise density, 374/10cm of latitudinal density, six layer tissues.It is 250 to weave speed Rev/min.
(8) repair
(9) desizing, preshrunk, sizing, washing:It is fixed to damp and hot sizing.
The method of technological difficulties and solution in 4 trial-productions
The technological difficulties of the big jacquard blanket of this all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer are:1) selection of yarn, includes the selection of raw material and yarn count. Yarn pre-treatment is most important, and boiled yarn is all used through weft yarn, and the kiering degree of warp thread and weft yarn is inconsistent, grasp respectively warp thread and The kiering degree of weft yarn;2) design of multilayer tissue, the organizational choice of this multi-layer blanket fabric is six layer tissues, and grain pattern is related to How the synthesis of six layer tissues, combine the difficult point that design of the longitude and latitude arrangement of each layer to carry out synthetic tissue is Ridge tracing, if Synthesis is bad, can increase difficulty of weaving, and reed road and open reed occurs on cloth cover.
5 trial results
Manufacture experimently after the completion of the big jacquard blanket of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, I takes charge of and correlation technique is summarized, all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer The design of big jacquard blanket focuses on how combination multilayer tissue, filling yarn density and thread count are mutually arranged, and gives expression to ideal Effect, and fabric thickness is moderate, neither too hard, nor too soft.I, which takes charge of, has carried out the progress such as ultimate strength, color fastness to the fabric of trial-production Test, test result meets standard.
Breadth:280cm
Through close:472/10cm
Filling density:374/10cm
Gram Mass:330g/m2
Technological design:
First, product specification
Fabric specification:280cm " JC14.6tex × (JC14.6tex × 2 (color)+OEC58.3tex+OEC58.3tex × 2+ The big jacquard weave carpet surface of 472 × 374/10cm all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayers of OEC58.3tex × 2+OEC58.3tex+JC14.6tex × 2) Material.
2nd, production process
Weaving --->Running repair is whole --->Dyeing and finishing is processed.
The big jacquard blanket fabric of this all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, warp thread is combed cotton yarn, 14.6tex, through it is close be 472/10cm;Latitude Yarn chooses three kinds of specification yarns, and latitude one is combing twine cotton, 14.6tex*2, and latitude two is air-flow spinning yarn, 58.3tex, and latitude three is Air spinning twine cotton, 58.3tex*2, filling density is 374/10cm;It is organized as the big Developing of Jacquard Weave of six layer tissues.Fabric width For 280cm.
The method for weaving of this fabric, step is:
The warp thread through slurry connection and technique of gaiting and the weft yarn by kiering dyeing is sequentially passed through, by the big jacquard weave of arrow shaft After loom is weaved, amendment;
The warp thread through slurry join technique requirement be:
Using sizing warper, a double-clip-double-nip starching has exactly been added between the bobbin cradle and head of sectional warper Machine and a set of baking cylindrical dryer;In the current direction of production line, double-clip-double-nip starching machine dries cylindrical dryer and existed preceding Afterwards;
It is 1 that mass fraction is used in slurries:The PVA and converted starch of 1 complete alcoholysis, the temperature control of stock tank 35 DEG C~ 40 DEG C, the control of slurries solid content 9%, serum viscosity 8s~9 this;Stock tank slurry temperature is below 50 DEG C, and slurry temperature is by adjusting Slurry bucket is controlled;
Low, the first squeezing roller pressure after the sizing warper is high before Pneumatic Pressure, the pressure selection of squeezing roller 0.44MPa, the second squeezing roller pressure 0.28MPa;Sized warp moisture regain is controlled 7.0%;Drying room steam pressure steam pressure≤ 0.3MPa;During start, the condensed water in drying cylinder of first draining;In production process, regain is adjusted by adjusting steam pressure, and steam Steam pressure is no more than 0.3MPa;Beam of a loom withdrawal speed 70m/min, whole slurry speed 55m/min~60m/min;
The technological requirement of gaiting of the warp thread is:The porter of reed is that (tooth/2 inch) are that 77#, reed width are 290cm, the left side Middle support is put at reed width 150.6cm;The tissue comprehensive method of wearing in ground is suitable wears;The comprehensive method of wearing of Selvage Stitch is suitable wears;Ground tissue it is comprehensive enter number be 1; Selvage Stitch it is comprehensive enter number be 1;It is 3 that ground tissue reed, which enters number,;It is 3 that Selvage Stitch reed, which enters number,;The menopause tablet method of wearing is 1,2,3,4,5,6;Using Plastic heddle;
The step of kiering dyeing of the weft yarn is:Raw yarn detects → singes → reeling → kiering, bleaching → dyeing Strand → waxing → packaging and warehousing is fallen in → post processing → dewatered drying → semi-finished product are detected →;
In step of singing, purified cotton yarns, which are singed, uses gas singeing machine, 1000 ± 50 DEG C of singeing fire hole temperature, linear velocity 1000r/min;
In reeling step, the cylinder yarn after singing shakes into the reeled yarn of fixed frame length on reeling frame, and reeled yarn quality settings are Often twist 250g.
Kiering, the technological process of bleaching are:Water inlet → addition scouring agent, soda ash, liquid caustic soda → plus 8g/L hydrogen peroxide, 95 DEG C Lower processing 20min → add processing 20min → with 70 DEG C of hot water wash 10min → at 0.5g/L bleeding agents, 90 DEG C to use 0.3g/L acetic acid The pickling 10min → enzyme washes 20min at 45 DEG C with 0.08g/L cellulase at 45 DEG C;
In staining procedure, dyeing installation is injecting type hank-dyeing machine, and technological process is:Dyeing is handled at material → 80 DEG C 20min → plus salt promote dye processing 20min → plus alkali fixation treatment 75min → discharge opeing → washing;
Material is to match somebody with somebody colorant according to color, then colorant is dissolved in solution constitutes dyestuff, in dyestuff:It is glauber salt 90g/L, pure Alkali 20g/L, levelling agent 0.2g/L, bath raio is 1:15;
Dye the technological process of post processing:Pickling 20min → 95 DEG C hot water wash 20min at 40 DEG C of 0.8g/L acetic acid, totally 2 times → soap → normal temperature cold water washes 5min, totally 2 times → to being handled at 45 DEG C of 20min → softening agent of processing at 45 DEG C of color → color fixing agent 20min;
Semi-finished product are detected:Single yarn stretches and takes its average value 6 times, is strongly not less than 3.5N, and staining fastness requirement reaches 3~ 4 grades, pH value is controlled 7~8;
Twist and wax one-shot forming, and processing speed is 450r/min;
The big jacquard loom of arrow shaft carries out woven requirement:Loom speed is 250rpm;Upper machine filling density is 364/10cm; The pattern that is open is jacquard head;Opening time is 315 degree;It is 65 degree to enter the sword time;It is 180 degree to connect the sword time;Pre-tension is 400kg;The temperature and relative humidity of environment are 23 DEG C~27 DEG C and 73%~79% respectively;
Finishing:Lump length 120m;Every overall length 240m;Every cloth weight 220kg;Into bag regain 9.5%.
The whole dyeing method of this fabric, step is:Fabric, which is turned over, to be stitched → move back and boil → and shapes → soft finish → product inspection clot;
Moving back the requirement boiled is:
Technology preparation:1~3g/L of desizing enzyme 2000L, 2~3g/L of penetrating agent JFC, 5~10g/L of scouring agent, pH value 6.5 ~7;
Technological process:Pad → pad in 70~80 DEG C of warm water move back boil liquid using it is secondary leaching it is secondary roll, pick-up 80%~ 100% → 100~102 DEG C of decatize 60min → hot water wash → cold water are washed;
Setting requirement be:150~160 DEG C of 45~60s of setting processing;
Soft finish:Using cellulase soft finish, it is desirable to be:Cellulase is that 3% (owf), pH value are 5, bath raioes It is that 50min, temperature are 50 DEG C 1: 20, time to be.
The testing result of this fabric is as follows:

Claims (1)

1. a kind of method for weaving of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer, it is characterized in that the big jacquard blanket of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer Fabric:
Warp thread is combed cotton yarn, 14.6tex, through it is close be 472/10cm;
Weft yarn chooses three kinds of specification yarns, and latitude one is combing twine cotton, 14.6tex*2, and latitude two is air-flow spinning yarn, 58.3tex, Latitude three is air spinning twine cotton, and 58.3tex*2, filling density is 374/10cm;
It is organized as the big Developing of Jacquard Weave of six layer tissues;Fabric width is 280cm;
The weaving step of the big jacquard blanket fabric of all-cotton yarn-dyed multilayer is:
The warp thread through slurry connection and technique of gaiting and the weft yarn by kiering dyeing is sequentially passed through, by the big jacquard loom of arrow shaft After being weaved, amendment;
The warp thread through slurry join technique requirement be:
Using sizing warper, exactly added between the bobbin cradle and head of sectional warper a double-clip-double-nip starching machine and A set of baking cylindrical dryer;In the current direction of production line, double-clip-double-nip starching machine dries cylindrical dryer rear preceding;
It is 1 that mass fraction is used in slurries:The PVA and converted starch of 1 complete alcoholysis, the temperature control of stock tank is 35 DEG C~40 DEG C, the control of slurries solid content 9%, serum viscosity 8s~9 this;Stock tank slurry temperature is below 50 DEG C, and slurry temperature is by sizing mixing Bucket control;
Low, the first squeezing roller pressure 0.44MPa after the sizing warper is high before Pneumatic Pressure, the pressure selection of squeezing roller, the Two squeezing roller pressure 0.28MPa;Sized warp moisture regain is controlled 7.0%;Drying room steam pressure steam pressure≤0.3MPa;Start When, the condensed water in drying cylinder of first draining;In production process, regain is adjusted by adjusting steam pressure, and steam pressure does not surpass Cross 0.3MPa;Beam of a loom withdrawal speed 70m/min, whole slurry speed 55m/min~60m/min;
The technological requirement of gaiting of the warp thread is:The porter of reed is that (tooth/2 inch) are that 77#, reed width are 290cm, left side reed width Middle support is put at 150.6cm;The tissue comprehensive method of wearing in ground is suitable wears;The comprehensive method of wearing of Selvage Stitch is suitable wears;Ground tissue it is comprehensive enter number be 1;Side group Knit it is comprehensive enter number be 1;It is 3 that ground tissue reed, which enters number,;It is 3 that Selvage Stitch reed, which enters number,;The menopause tablet method of wearing is 1,2,3,4,5,6;Using plastics Heald;
The step of kiering dyeing of the weft yarn is:Raw yarn detects → singes → reeling → kiering, bleaching → dyeing → after Strand → waxing → packaging and warehousing is fallen in processing → dewatered drying → semi-finished product are detected →;
In step of singing, purified cotton yarns, which are singed, uses gas singeing machine, 1000 ± 50 DEG C of singeing fire hole temperature, linear velocity 1000r/ min;
In reeling step, the cylinder yarn after singing shakes into the reeled yarn of fixed frame length on reeling frame, and reeled yarn quality settings are often to twist 250g。
Kiering, the technological process of bleaching are:Water inlet → addition scouring agent, soda ash, liquid caustic soda → plus 8g/L hydrogen peroxide, locate at 95 DEG C Processing 20min at 20min → plus 0.5g/L bleeding agents, 90 DEG C → with 70 DEG C of hot water wash 10min → use 0.3g/L acetic acid is managed 45 Pickling 10min at DEG C → with 0.08g/L cellulase, enzyme washes 20min at 45 DEG C;
In staining procedure, dyeing installation is injecting type hank-dyeing machine, and technological process is:Dyeing is handled at material → 80 DEG C 20min → plus salt promote dye processing 20min → plus alkali fixation treatment 75min → discharge opeing → washing;
Material is to match somebody with somebody colorant according to color, then colorant is dissolved in solution constitutes dyestuff, in dyestuff:Glauber salt 90g/L, soda ash 20g/L, levelling agent 0.2g/L, bath raio is 1:15;
Dye the technological process of post processing:Pickling 20min → 95 DEG C hot water wash 20min at 40 DEG C of 0.8g/L acetic acid, totally 2 times → soap Wash → normal temperature cold water washes 5min, totally 2 times → to handling 20min at 45 DEG C of 20min → softening agent of processing at 45 DEG C of color → color fixing agent;
Semi-finished product are detected:Single yarn stretches 6 times and takes its average value, is strongly not less than 3.5N, and staining fastness requirement reaches 3~4 grades, PH value is controlled 7~8;
Twist and wax one-shot forming, and processing speed is 450r/min;
The big jacquard loom of arrow shaft carries out woven requirement:Loom speed is 250rpm;Upper machine filling density is 364/10cm;Opening Pattern is jacquard head;Opening time is 315 degree;It is 65 degree to enter the sword time;It is 180 degree to connect the sword time;Pre-tension is 400kg;The temperature and relative humidity of environment are 23 DEG C~27 DEG C and 73%~79% respectively;
Finishing:Lump length 120m;Every overall length 240m;Every cloth weight 220kg;Into bag regain 9.5%.
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CN108130648A (en) * 2018-01-05 2018-06-08 江苏悦达家纺有限公司 Four barry dyeing pure cotton dyed jacquard products and its production method
CN109355771A (en) * 2018-09-06 2019-02-19 海宁市千百荟织造有限公司 A kind of whole door width solely spends cotton through technique

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CN106350916A (en) * 2016-08-29 2017-01-25 威海魏桥科技工业园有限公司 Interwoven fabric interweaved by water absorption and fast drying fiber and cotton and making process
CN106480580A (en) * 2015-08-31 2017-03-08 南通市跃达针织服饰有限公司 Full-cotton yarn-dyed fabric and its method for weaving
CN106521767A (en) * 2016-11-21 2017-03-22 江苏银桥纺织科技有限公司 Production and pretreatment process for yarn-dyed fabrics

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CN103388218A (en) * 2013-08-09 2013-11-13 吴江金时利织造有限公司 Cotton polyester jacquard fabric and production method thereof
CN106480580A (en) * 2015-08-31 2017-03-08 南通市跃达针织服饰有限公司 Full-cotton yarn-dyed fabric and its method for weaving
CN105970416A (en) * 2016-06-21 2016-09-28 江苏曜彰体育用品有限公司 All-cotton yarn-dyed fabric and weaving method thereof
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CN109355771A (en) * 2018-09-06 2019-02-19 海宁市千百荟织造有限公司 A kind of whole door width solely spends cotton through technique

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