CN110106606A - A kind of design method and production technology of cotton silk crinkle fabric - Google Patents
A kind of design method and production technology of cotton silk crinkle fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN110106606A CN110106606A CN201910461332.2A CN201910461332A CN110106606A CN 110106606 A CN110106606 A CN 110106606A CN 201910461332 A CN201910461332 A CN 201910461332A CN 110106606 A CN110106606 A CN 110106606A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 51
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 25
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 17
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 235000013351 cheese Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000009988 textile finishing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000009970 yarn dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 230000002045 lasting Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000002965 rope Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 20
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000010792 warming Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000009990 desizing Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 12
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- PMZURENOXWZQFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L na2so4 Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O PMZURENOXWZQFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 210000003165 Abomasum Anatomy 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940088598 Enzyme Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 claims description 6
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 claims description 6
- 241000745987 Phragmites Species 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002738 chelating agent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000006297 dehydration reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000017550 sodium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000005021 gait Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052938 sodium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000011152 sodium sulphate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 206010018987 Haemorrhage Diseases 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000007164 Oryza sativa Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 102000004139 alpha-Amylases Human genes 0.000 claims description 3
- 108090000637 alpha-Amylases Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940024171 alpha-amylase Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000740 bleeding Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 231100000319 bleeding Toxicity 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000002036 drum drying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002002 slurry Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000008331 Pinus X rigitaeda Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000011613 Pinus brutia Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 241000018646 Pinus brutia Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910001882 dioxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxygen Chemical compound O=O MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 240000007594 Oryza sativa Species 0.000 claims 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 238000005457 optimization Methods 0.000 description 7
- 241000209094 Oryza Species 0.000 description 2
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000001519 tissues Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
- D06C23/04—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by shrinking, embossing, moiréing, or crêping
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
- D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
- D06L1/14—De-sizing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
- D06L4/10—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen
- D06L4/12—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen combined with specific additives
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
- D06L4/10—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen
- D06L4/13—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen using inorganic agents
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/11—Starch or derivatives thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8219—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and amide groups
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/04—Silk
Abstract
The invention discloses the design method and its production technology of a kind of cotton silk crinkle fabric, process flow is as follows: cheese yarn dyeing technique --- rewinding technique --- warping technology --- sizing and axis technique --- drawing-in technique --- weaving process --- textile finishing processing technology.The present invention devises the silk interlaced product of cotton beautiful in colour, has inquired into final finishing manufacturing procedure, and the Collator Mode of loose formula setting is combined using rope treatment, lasting wrinkle strip effect is generated in fabric surface.Fabric hand feel is well-pressed smooth, not the well-pressed feature of the long fabric of disalignment, has the characteristics that the rough style of modern popular.Popular colour is used in fabric design on color, is suitable for makeing female's summer cotta western-stype clothes suit, suit of skirt, aloha shirt etc..
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric knitting fields, and in particular to a kind of design method of cotton silk crinkle fabric and production work
Skill.
Background technique
More crinkle fabric is mainly realized by the design of tissue on the market, longitudinal to replace item with what is do not creased to crease
Line uses Warp Satin to reach and reinforce " light, cunning, soft, bullet " style shown by twist crape, the striped energy bounded that do not crease
Limit clearly demarcated effect.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of designs of cotton silk crinkle fabric
Method and production technology.
Technical solution: a kind of design method of cotton silk crinkle fabric, design method are as follows:
A. raw material selects: warp thread selects 11.7tex (50s) pure cotton raw yarn, weft yarn use 20D silk；
B. filling yarn arranges: the flower recurring number 256 of warp thread one, weft yarn is silk primary colors, and latitude is of the same colour；
C. organization design: selvedge and body are all made of plain weave, and in order to highlight the smooth feature of silky luster, fabric is close
Using low through close Gao Weimi when degree setting, gait using straight arrangement, it is comprehensive using page six in order to reduce heald density；Ensure every page
Heald number used on heald frame controls within 760.
As optimization: the specifications design of the fabric: total quantity of warps 4416, wherein 32 × 2, side yarn, full width 17
Flower；Each yarn radical in body part: add white 36 × 17=612 root；Powder ash 62 × 17=1054 root；Green 32 × 17=544 root；Ash
Purple 28 × 17=476 root；Purplish red 48 × 17=816 root；Rice ash 50 × 17=850 root.
As optimization: the trimmed size of the fabric is as follows: Fabric width 140cm, fabric is through close 315/10cm, latitude
Close 488/10cm, total quantity of warps 4416, wherein side yarn 32 × 2；472/10cm of fabric filling density selects No. 68 reeds, on
Machine is through close 268/10cm, upper machine reed width 163.8cm, 464/10cm of weft density on machine；Through crimp 8.7%, latitude crimp 2.7%,
Dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 13.5% arranges long shrinkage 3.2%.
A kind of production technology of cotton silk crinkle fabric according to claim 1, using 11.7tex pure cotton raw yarn,
Include the following steps: cheese yarn dyeing technique --- rewinding technique --- warping technology --- sizing and axis technique --- drawer-in
Skill --- weaving process --- textile finishing processing technology；Wherein:
The process of the cheese yarn dyeing technique are as follows: base yarn → metal → boil drift → dyeing → softness → dehydration → drying →
Tight cylinder；Wherein:
Described boils drift: sequentially adding chelating agent, refining agent, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer at room temperature, operating is added after five minutes
Caustic soda reruns and hydrogen peroxide is added after five minutes, is then gradually warming up to 110 DEG C, keeps the temperature 30 minutes, cooling, and hot water wash 1 time, acid
It neutralizes, deoxyenzyme；
It is as follows to boil drift prescription: chelating agent 1.5g/L, refining agent 1.5g/L, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer 0.5g/L, caustic soda 4.5g/L,
Hydrogen peroxide 3.3g/L；
The dyeing: being added dyestuff at room temperature, operates 15 minutes after being gradually warming up to 40 DEG C, is subsequently added into 1/3
Anhydrous sodium sulphate adds remaining anhydrous sodium sulphate, after remaining in operation 15 minutes, is gradually warming up to 60 DEG C, reruns after operating 15 minutes
After 15 minutes, first plus 1/3 soda ash, operating 15 minutes after, add remaining 2/3 soda ash, remain in operation 30~60 minutes
After cool down, wash, soap, washing；
The textile finishing processing technology: combining loose formula setting using rope treatment, generate lasting wrinkle strip effect, main
Wanting process to have, desizing, preboarding, corrugation arranges and loose formula setting；Concrete operations are as follows:
A desizing: carrying out in overflow dyeing machine, and using enzyme desizing method, room temperature charging is warming up to 65 DEG C, keeps the temperature 40 points
Clock, then 90 DEG C are warming up to, 10 minutes are kept the temperature, hot water wash, cold water are washed later, out cylinder, dehydration, stent；
Enzyme desizing prescription is as follows: alpha-amylase 2g/L, salt 2g/L, bleeding agent 1g/L, pH value 6.0~6.5, bath raio 1:5；
B preboarding: carrying out on boarding machine, and 120~150 DEG C of oven temperature, speed 30m/min, overfeeding 15%, cropping width
It is wide consistent with cloth breadth is entered；
C corrugation arranges: carrying out in rotary drum drying machine, 105 DEG C of steam temperature, the time 40 minutes；
The setting of d pine formula: it is carried out on boarding machine, 150 DEG C of oven temperature, speed 60m/min, overfeeding 10%, breadth
140cm。
As optimization: the rewinding technique: selecting 1332M type bobbin-winding machine, selected yarn is thinner, and winder speed should not mistake
Fastly, it is set as 160m/min, tension washer quality 7.5g, using hand held air splicer.
As optimization: the warping technology: selection Benniger ZDA beam warper, bobbin cradle capacity 640, warping
Speed 480m/min, collective's creeling, the setting since speed of beaming is higher, without additional tension.
As optimization: the sizing and axis technique: using ASGA365C type sizing machine, sizing speed 55-60m/min,
Using four die mould compregnate modes of double leachings；Light sizing on warp thread, slurry select converted starch, and the rate of sizing is controlled 4%.
As optimization: the drawing-in technique: gaiting using straight arrangement, with comprehensive page 6, selvedge wears page 1,2,1-6 pages of body
It is suitable to wear；The every dent 4 of selvedge enters, 16 teeth；Body 2 enters, 4352 warp thread, totally 2176 tooth；2192 tooth of full width.
As optimization: the weaving process: selecting the weaving of GA747 type rapier loom, and loom revolving speed 165r/min is knitted
Speed is low, and opening is clear, can give full play to the performance of loom；Opening time selects common 295 °, into 75 ° of the sword time, when moving back sword
Between 295 ° of the time, back beam height 70mm, heald frame use the original height of loom.
The utility model has the advantages that the present invention devises the silk interlaced product of cotton beautiful in colour, inquire into final finishing manufacturing procedure
In, the Collator Mode of loose formula setting is combined using rope treatment, and lasting wrinkle strip effect is generated in fabric surface.Fabric hand feel is endured
Include smooth, the well-pressed feature of the long fabric of disalignment, does not have the characteristics that the rough style of modern popular.It is used on color in fabric design
Popular colour is suitable for makeing female's summer cotta western-stype clothes suit, suit of skirt, aloha shirt etc..
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is machine schematic diagram on fabric of the invention.
Specific embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiments of the invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field
Personnel can better understand advantages and features of the invention, to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention
It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention
In embodiment, those of ordinary skill in the art's every other implementation obtained without making creative work
Example, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment
1. Fabric Design
The selection of 1.1 raw materials
Warp thread selects 11.7tex (50s) pure cotton raw yarn, weft yarn use 20D silk.
The arrangement of 1.2 filling yarns
Warp thread color yarn arrangement table is as shown in table 1 below, and the flower recurring number 256 of warp thread one, weft yarn is silk primary colors, and latitude is of the same colour.
1 warp thread color yarn arrangement table of table
The specifications design of 1.3 fabrics
Total quantity of warps 4416, wherein 32 × 2, side yarn, full width 17 are spent.Each yarn radical in body part: add white 36 × 17=
612；Powder ash 62 × 17=1054 root；Green 32 × 17=544 root；Grey purple 28 × 17=476 root；Purplish red 48 × 17=816
Root；Rice ash 50 × 17=850 root.
Fabric width 140cm, finished product is through close 315/10cm, 488/10cm of finished product filling density.Fabric filling density 472/
10cm selects No. 68 reeds, warp density on machine 268/10cm, upper machine reed width 163.8cm, 464/10cm of weft density on machine.
1.4 organization designs and looming draft
Selvedge and body are all made of plain weave.In order to highlight the smooth feature of silky luster, Density is adopted when being arranged
With low through close Gao Weimi, gait using straight arrangement.It is comprehensive using page six in order to reduce heald density.Ensure the institute on every page of heald frame
With the control of heald number within 760, specific heald is distributed as shown in table 2 (total quantity of warps 4416), looming draft such as Fig. 1 institute
Show.
Heald number distribution table on the every page of heald frame of table 2
2. weaving the technological process of production and technical indicator
Using 11.7tex pure cotton raw yarn, include the following steps: cheese yarn dyeing technique --- rewinding technique --- warping work
Skill --- sizing and axis technique --- drawing-in technique --- weaving process --- textile finishing processing technology.
2.1 cheese yarn dyeing
Process flow are as follows: base yarn → metal → boils drift → dyeing → softness → dehydration → drying → tight cylinder
2.1.1 drift is boiled
Chelating agent, refining agent, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer are sequentially added at room temperature, and caustic soda is added after five minutes, reruns 5 for operating
Hydrogen peroxide is added after minute, is then gradually warming up to 110 DEG C, keeps the temperature 30 minutes, cooling, hot water wash 1 time, acid neutralizes, deoxyenzyme.
Boil drift prescription: chelating agent 1.5g/L, refining agent 1.5g/L, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer 0.5g/L, caustic soda 4.5g/L, dioxygen
Water 3.3g/L.
2.1.2 dyeing
Dyestuff is added at room temperature, is operated 15 minutes after being gradually warming up to 40 DEG C, is subsequently added into 1/3 anhydrous sodium sulphate, operating 15
Minute after, add remaining anhydrous sodium sulphate, after remaining in operation 15 minutes, be gradually warming up to 60 DEG C, after rerunning 15 minutes, first plus
1/3 soda ash adds remaining 2/3 soda ash after operating 15 minutes, 30~cooling, washing, soap after sixty minutes of remaining in operation
It washes, wash.
2.2 rewinding techniques
Select 1332M type bobbin-winding machine.Yarn selected by this product is thinner, and winder speed is unsuitable too fast, is set as 160m/min,
Tension washer quality 7.5g.Using hand held air splicer.
2.3 warping technology
Selection Benniger ZDA beam warper, bobbin cradle capacity 640, speed of beaming 480m/min, collective's creeling, by
Setting higher in speed of beaming, without additional tension[3]。
2.4 slashing technique
Use ASGA365C type sizing machine, sizing speed 55-60m/min, using four die mould compregnate modes of double leachings.On warp thread
Light sizing, slurry select converted starch, and the rate of sizing is controlled 4% or so.
2.5 drawing-in techniques
It gaits using straight arrangement, with comprehensive page 6, selvedge wears page 1,2, and 1-6 page of body suitable to wear.The every dent 4 of selvedge enters, 16 teeth；
Body 2 enters, 4352 warp thread, totally 2176 tooth；2192 tooth of full width.
2.6 weaving process
Combination product feature, selects the weaving of GA747 type rapier loom, loom revolving speed 165r/min, knits that speed is low, and opening is clear
It is clear, the performance of loom can be given full play to.Opening time selects common 295 °, into 75 ° of the sword time, moves back time sword time 295
°[4], back beam height 70mm, heald frame is using the original height of loom.
3. textile finishing processing technology
Loose formula setting is combined using rope treatment, generates lasting wrinkle strip effect, master operation has desizing, preboarding, rises
Wrinkle arranges and loose formula setting.
3.1 desizing
It is carried out in overflow dyeing machine, using enzyme desizing method, room temperature charging is warming up to 65 DEG C, keeps the temperature 40 minutes, then rise
Temperature keeps the temperature 10 minutes to 90 DEG C, and hot water wash, cold water are washed later, out cylinder, dehydration, stent.
Enzyme desizing prescription: alpha-amylase 2g/L, salt 2g/L, bleeding agent 1g/L, pH value 6.0~6.5, bath raio 1:5.
3.2 preboarding
It is carried out on boarding machine, 120~150 DEG C of oven temperature, speed 30m/min, overfeeding 15%, cropping breadth and enters cloth
Breadth is consistent.
3.3 corrugations arrange
It is carried out in rotary drum drying machine, 105 DEG C of steam temperature, the time 40 minutes.
3.4 loose formula setting
It is carried out on boarding machine, 150 DEG C of oven temperature, speed 60m/min, overfeeding 10%, breadth 140cm.4. finished product is advised
Lattice
Fabric width 140cm, fabric is through close 315/10cm, 488/10cm of filling density, and total quantity of warps 4416, wherein side
Yarn 32 × 2.Through crimp 8.7%, latitude crimp 2.7%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 13.5% arranges long shrinkage 3.2%.
The present invention devises the silk interlaced product of cotton beautiful in colour, has inquired into final finishing manufacturing procedure, using rope
Shape processing combines the Collator Mode of loose formula setting, and lasting wrinkle strip effect is generated in fabric surface.Fabric hand feel is well-pressed smooth, no
The well-pressed feature of the long fabric of disalignment has the characteristics that the rough style of modern popular.Popular colour is used in fabric design on color, is fitted
It is fit to do female's summer cotta western-stype clothes suit, suit of skirt, aloha shirt etc..
Claims (9)
1. a kind of design method of cotton silk crinkle fabric, it is characterised in that: design method is as follows:
A. raw material selects: warp thread selects 11.7tex (50s) pure cotton raw yarn, weft yarn use 20D silk；
B. filling yarn arranges: the flower recurring number 256 of warp thread one, weft yarn is silk primary colors, and latitude is of the same colour；
C. organization design: selvedge and body are all made of plain weave, and in order to highlight the smooth feature of silky luster, Density is set
Using low through close Gao Weimi when setting, gait using straight arrangement, it is comprehensive using page six in order to reduce heald density；Ensure every page of heald frame
On heald number used control within 760.
2. the design method of cotton silk crinkle fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the specification of the fabric
Design: total quantity of warps 4416, wherein 32 × 2, side yarn, full width 17 are spent；Each yarn radical in body part: add white 36 × 17=612
Root；Powder ash 62 × 17=1054 root；Green 32 × 17=544 root；Grey purple 28 × 17=476 root；Purplish red 48 × 17=816 root；
Rice ash 50 × 17=850 root.
3. the production technology of cotton silk crinkle fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the finished product of the fabric
Specification is as follows: Fabric width 140cm, and fabric is through close 315/10cm, 488/10cm of filling density, and total quantity of warps 4416, wherein
Side yarn 32 × 2；472/10cm of fabric filling density, selects No. 68 reeds, warp density on machine 268/10cm, upper machine reed width 163.8cm,
464/10cm of weft density on machine；Through crimp 8.7%, latitude crimp 2.7%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 13.5% arranges long shrinkage 3.2%.
4. a kind of production technology of cotton silk crinkle fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: use 11.7tex
Pure cotton raw yarn includes the following steps: cheese yarn dyeing technique --- rewinding technique --- warping technology --- sizing and axis work
Skill --- drawing-in technique --- weaving process --- textile finishing processing technology；Wherein:
The process of the cheese yarn dyeing technique are as follows: base yarn → metal → boils drift → dyeing → softness → dehydration → drying → tight
Cylinder；Wherein:
Described boils drift: sequentially adding chelating agent, refining agent, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer at room temperature, operating is added after five minutes burns
Alkali reruns and hydrogen peroxide is added after five minutes, is then gradually warming up to 110 DEG C, keeps the temperature 30 minutes, cooling, and hot water wash 1 time, in acid
With deoxyenzyme；
It is as follows to boil drift prescription: chelating agent 1.5g/L, refining agent 1.5g/L, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer 0.5g/L, caustic soda 4.5g/L, dioxygen
Water 3.3g/L；
The dyeing: being added dyestuff at room temperature, operates 15 minutes after being gradually warming up to 40 DEG C, be subsequently added into 1/3 member it is bright
Powder adds remaining anhydrous sodium sulphate, after remaining in operation 15 minutes, is gradually warming up to 60 DEG C, reruns 15 points after operating 15 minutes
Zhong Hou, first plus 1/3 soda ash adds remaining 2/3 soda ash after operating 15 minutes, remain in operation 30~it drops after sixty minutes
Temperature is washed, is soaped, washing；
The textile finishing processing technology: loose formula setting is combined using rope treatment, generates lasting wrinkle strip effect, main work
Sequence has desizing, preboarding, corrugation arrangement and loose formula setting；Concrete operations are as follows:
A desizing: carrying out in overflow dyeing machine, and using enzyme desizing method, room temperature charging is warming up to 65 DEG C, keeps the temperature 40 minutes, then
90 DEG C are warming up to, keeps the temperature 10 minutes, hot water wash, cold water are washed later, out cylinder, dehydration, stent；
Enzyme desizing prescription is as follows: alpha-amylase 2g/L, salt 2g/L, bleeding agent 1g/L, pH value 6.0~6.5, bath raio 1:5；
B preboarding: carrying out on boarding machine, 120~150 DEG C of oven temperature, speed 30m/min, overfeeding 15%, cropping breadth with
It is consistent to enter cloth breadth；
C corrugation arranges: carrying out in rotary drum drying machine, 105 DEG C of steam temperature, the time 40 minutes；
The setting of d pine formula: it is carried out on boarding machine, 150 DEG C of oven temperature, speed 60m/min, overfeeding 10%, breadth 140cm.
5. the production technology of cotton silk crinkle fabric according to claim 4, it is characterised in that: the rewinding technique:
1332M type bobbin-winding machine is selected, selected yarn is thinner, and winder speed is unsuitable too fast, is set as 160m/min, tension washer quality
7.5g, using hand held air splicer.
6. the production technology of cotton silk crinkle fabric according to claim 4, it is characterised in that: the warping technology:
Selection Benniger ZDA beam warper, bobbin cradle capacity 640, speed of beaming 480m/min, collective's creeling, due to warping speed
Spend higher, the setting without additional tension.
7. the production technology of cotton silk crinkle fabric according to claim 4, it is characterised in that: the sizing and axis work
Skill: ASGA365C type sizing machine, sizing speed 55-60m/min, using four die mould compregnate modes of double leachings are used；Light sizing on warp thread,
Slurry selects converted starch, and the rate of sizing is controlled 4%.
8. the production technology of cotton silk crinkle fabric according to claim 4, it is characterised in that: the drawing-in technique:
It gaits using straight arrangement, with comprehensive page 6, selvedge wears page 1,2, and 1-6 page of body suitable to wear；The every dent 4 of selvedge enters, 16 teeth；Body 2 enters,
4352 warp thread, totally 2176 tooth；2192 tooth of full width.
9. the production technology of cotton silk crinkle fabric according to claim 4, it is characterised in that: the weaving process:
Select the weaving of GA747 type rapier loom, loom revolving speed 165r/min knits that speed is low, and opening is clear, can give full play to the property of loom
Energy；Opening time selects common 295 °, into 75 ° of the sword time, moves back 295 ° of time sword time, back beam height 70mm, heald frame uses
The original height of loom.
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