CN103541102A - CM800 stretch worsted fancy suiting - Google Patents
CM800 stretch worsted fancy suiting Download PDFInfo
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- CN103541102A CN103541102A CN201310488623.3A CN201310488623A CN103541102A CN 103541102 A CN103541102 A CN 103541102A CN 201310488623 A CN201310488623 A CN 201310488623A CN 103541102 A CN103541102 A CN 103541102A
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Abstract
The invention discloses CM800 stretch worsted fancy suiting made by interweaving warps (1) and wefts (2). The warps (1) are made of high-count wool-polyester blended yarns (3). The wefts (2) are made by alternately arranging and beating up high-count wool-polyester blended yarns (3) and 75D/1CM800 stretch filaments (4). The invention further provides a production method of CM800 stretch worsted fancy suiting. The high-count wool-polyester blended yarns and 75D/1CM800 stretch filaments are perfectly combined in the suiting, the problems in the process of adding the CM800 stretch filaments into fabric are solved, fine features of the CM800 stretch filaments are fully protected and embodied in the suiting, the product is soft and smooth to touch, elegant in texture, high in elasticity, and less prone to wrinkling, also has good drapability, thermoplasticity, size stability and gloss elegance, and is ideal suit fabric.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of smart wool spinning fabric, relate in particular to a kind of CM800 elasticity fancy worsted and production method thereof.
Background technology
Along with social development, improving constantly of people's living standard, fabric is not only required attractive in appearance, generous, magnificent, the more important thing is environmental protection, health, comfortable, especially for formal dress fabric, each side requires harsh especially, therefore requires us must on the basis of original fabric, increase the style characteristic of product, improves the scientific and technological content of product.
At present, in this area, adopt du pont company's technical support, the method production of PTT and two kinds of prepared using composite spinnings arranged side by side of PET has been made to a kind of new polyester elastomer CM800, have another name called PTT/PET bicomponent fiber, it has overcome the shortcoming that spandex bag stamen yarn stockinette easily shows money or valuables one carries unintentionally, make fabric there is good elasticity and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, clothing is comfortable and easy to wear simultaneously, easily arrange, but, being joined, this elastomer CM800 in the production technology in fabric, but has a lot of difficult points, such as CM800 elastic filament is different from worsted yarn, in weaving process, very easily produce broken end, in rear arrangement process, fabric very easily produces scratch, non-refractory, simultaneously because CM800 elastic filament belongs to high-elastic product, door width is very difficult to the problems such as control.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to overcome CM800 elastic filament and will join the difficulty in fabric, provide a kind of soft smooth, quality is graceful, good springiness, do not crease easily, and also has the Novel elastic fabric of good drapability, thermoplasticity, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, gloss gracefulness simultaneously---CM800 elasticity fancy worsted.
An elasticity fancy worsted, is interwoven by warp thread and weft yarn, and warp thread is a high wool-polyester yarn, and weft yarn adopts a high wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament to be spaced to beat up and forms, and wherein, it is by 90 that described height props up wool-polyester yarn
saustralia's hair and 2.2D blend polyester are made; In this fabric 90
sthe weight ratio of Australia's hair is 60%, the weight ratio of 2.2D terylene is 26%, the weight ratio of 75D/1CM800 elastic filament is 14%.
Another object of the present invention is to provide the preparation method of above-mentioned CM800 elasticity fancy worsted.
The production method of above-mentioned CM800 elasticity fancy worsted, it comprises following steps:
(1), first by 90
saustralian wool, 2.2D polyster fibre dye recombing through bar and make bar, then make a high wool-polyester yarn through spinning; Described is dyed recombing technique and comprises: dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → secondary silver mixing → last grilling → the first two grilling → combing → rear grilling → rear two grillings → rear three grillings → slivering; Described spinning process comprises: silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → bis-pin → tri-pin → tetra-pin → rove → spun yarn → from winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming;
(2), the height of making propped up to wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament adopt warp thread to weave for a high wool-polyester yarn, weft yarn adopt a high wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament to be spaced to beat up to form, obtain the grey cloth of fancy worsted; Wherein:
Weaving process comprises: warping → gaiting, denting → weaving → base inspection → raw repairing; Wherein, warping technology parameter is controlled: linear velocity 300m/min, general linear velocity is 380m/min, because CM800 elastic filament is different from worsted yarn, very easily produces broken end in weaving process, therefore the reduction of this place's Negotiation speed, thereby avoid broken end serious, weaving efficiency is improved, beaming linear velocity 50m/min, yarn tension 3.5 degree, beaming tension force 1kg; Meanwhile, adjusting is back rest front and back position 105cm through the position line, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm, tension force 200KG; This adjustment through the position line can solve the faults such as latitude bow yarn, skips.In addition, because CM800 elastic filament very easily abrades fluffing, therefore need in process of production to keep CM800 elastic filament bobbin, weft accumulator, tension piece, weft detector, color selection box rifle head and each porcelain eye passage all without burr; In order to reach better effect, control left and right tucking machine, the scissors edge of a knife that moves about is sharp, prevents that the long filament of cutting off from forming flyings and inweaving cloth cover; Left sword head jaw can not have flyings, on weft-sending sword head yarn gripper, before and after machine, suitably adjusts, and keeps the air draught state of left rail plate intact, and in the middle of cloth cover sword head, junction cloth cover hair is adjusted in time; Weft accumulator is all made of wool hairbrush, because adopting a Gen Gaozhi wool-polyester yarn and a CM800 elastic filament A1B1 to beat up, weft yarn forms, a beat up Gen Gaozhi wool-polyester yarn and a CM800 elastic filament of a so-called Gen Gaozhi wool-polyester yarn and CM800 elastic filament A1B1 is spaced and beats up, so weft tension mainly in hairbrush adjusted, will guarantee during production that wool yarn is consistent with CM800 elastic filament even tension.The loose thread of broken end will be cut on cloth cover in process of production, and cloth cover can not have loose thread.The loom speed of a motor vehicle should be controlled at 330 revs/min of left and right.
(3), by fancy worsted grey cloth through row dyeing and finishing, its technique is: base examines → singe → flatly boil → wash contracting → open-width → flat and boil → shape softness → ripe repairing → bristle → singe → put down and boil → dry → dewing → high pressure steaming → tank steaming → boiling hot steaming → tank steaming → finished product; Wherein, because CM800 elastic filament is different from worsted yarn, in rear arrangement process, fabric very easily abrades, thus in whole production process fabric need to be open width shape, without rope form, prevent fabric scratch.In addition, because it is high temperature resistant that CM800 elastic filament is difficult for, for preventing the damage of CM800 elastic filament, whole production process temperature can not be too high, normal hair is washed the setting temperature of kind should be at T=195 ℃, but CM800 should be controlled at T=160-170 ℃ meeting temperature under the prerequisite of washing shrinkage.Meanwhile, because CM800 elastic filament belongs to high-elastic product, door width is very difficult to control, in rear arrangement production process, for the finished door width that obtains smoothly needing, before sizing softness and roars of laughter two step process, can first measure wet width, determine again the door width of open-width, between dry blowing, according to wet whole institute, measure wet fabric width narrow for tank steaming process, then determine tank and steam whether cross weft straightener production, if wider, need to cross weft straightener production, if door width is partially narrow, just do not need weft straightener, reached thus needed finished door width.Singeing: positive and negative respectively once, adopts 2 singeings can make the face of product brighter and cleaner.Bristle: 2 is positive 1 anti-, can give appropriate steam simultaneously.
CM800 elasticity fancy worsted of the present invention adopts high wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament to be spaced to beat up by weft yarn to add CM800 elastic filament, and weave by accurate control, dyeing and finishing technology, overcome CM800 elastic filament in process of production and in weaving process, very easily produced broken end, in rear arrangement process fabric very easily produce scratch and because CM800 elastic filament belongs to high-elastic product, door width is very difficult to the difficult point of controlling, success joins CM800 elastic filament in fabric, the shortcoming that easily shows money or valuables one carries unintentionally of spandex bag stamen yarn stockinette that made overcoming of CM800 elastic filament, can offer elasticity and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY that fabric is good, clothing is comfortable and easy to wear simultaneously, the good characteristic of easily arranging is adequately protected and is embodied in fabric, make product good springiness, do not crease easily, there is good drapability, thermoplasticity and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, after height props up wool-polyester yarn and is combined, allow especially product embody soft smooth, quality is graceful, the feature of gloss gracefulness.
The present invention's beneficial effect is compared with prior art:
Warp thread of the present invention forms for a high wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament are spaced to beat up for high wool-polyester yarn, weft yarn, height is propped up to wool-polyester yarn and the perfect adaptation of 75D/1CM800 elastic filament, make the product that makes soft smooth, quality is graceful, good springiness, do not crease easily, also there is good drapability, thermoplasticity, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, gloss gracefulness simultaneously, be a desirable formal dress fabric, be relatively applicable to making popular weight reducing version western-style clothes at present simultaneously.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the structural representation of CM800 elasticity fancy worsted of the present invention.
Wherein 1 is warp thread; 2 is weft yarn; 3 is a high wool-polyester yarn; 4 is CM800 elastic filament.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1
First by 90
saustralian wool, 2.2D polyster fibre dye recombing through bar and make bar, then the height of making as shown in Figure 1 through spinning props up wool-polyester yarn; Described is dyed recombing technique and comprises: dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → secondary silver mixing → last grilling → the first two grilling → combing → rear grilling → rear two grillings → rear three grillings → slivering; Described spinning process comprises: silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → bis-pin → tri-pin → tetra-pin → rove → spun yarn → from winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming;
Again the height of making is propped up to wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament and adopt warp thread 1 as shown in Figure 1 to weave for a high wool-polyester yarn 3, weft yarn 2 adopt a high wool-polyester yarn 3 to be spaced to beat up to form with 75D/1CM800 elastic filament 4, obtain the grey cloth of fancy worsted; Wherein: weaving process comprises: warping → gaiting, denting → weaving → base inspection → raw repairing; Wherein warping technology parameter is: linear velocity 300m/min, beaming linear velocity 50m/min, yarn tension 3.5 degree, beaming tension force 1kg; Meanwhile, adjusting is back rest front and back position 105cm through the position line, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm, tension force 200KG; In production process, need to keep CM800 elastic filament bobbin, weft accumulator, tension piece, weft detector, color selection box rifle head and each porcelain eye passage all without burr; In order to reach better scratching effect, can control left and right tucking machine, the scissors edge of a knife that moves about is sharp, prevents that the long filament of cutting off from forming flyings and inweaving cloth cover; Left sword head jaw can not have flyings, on weft-sending sword head yarn gripper, before and after machine, suitably adjusts, and keeps the air draught state of left rail plate intact, and in the middle of cloth cover sword head, junction cloth cover hair is adjusted in time; Weft accumulator is all made of wool hairbrush, guarantees that wool yarn is consistent with CM800 elastic filament even tension during production.The loose thread of broken end will be cut on cloth cover in process of production, and cloth cover can not have loose thread.The loom speed of a motor vehicle should be controlled at 330 revs/min.
Finally, by fancy worsted grey cloth, through row dyeing and finishing, its technique is: base examines → singes → and flatly boil → wash contracting → open-width → flat and boil → shape softness → ripe repairing → bristle → singe → put down and boil → dry → dewing → high pressure steaming → tank steaming → boiling hot steaming → tank steaming → finished product; In whole production process fabric need to be open width shape, without rope form, temperature is controlled at T=160-170 ℃.In rear arrangement production process, for the finished door width that obtains smoothly needing, before sizing softness and roars of laughter two step process, can first measure wet width, then determine the door width of open-width, between dry blowing, according to wet whole institute, to measure the fabric width that wets narrow for tank steaming process, determine again tank and steam whether cross weft straightener production, if a door wider weft straightener of need to crossing is produced, if door width is partially narrow, just do not need weft straightener, reach thus needed finished door width.Singeing: positive and negative respectively once, adopts 2 singeings can make the face of product brighter and cleaner.Bristle: 2 is positive 1 anti-.
In this finished product, have 90
saustralia's hair 60%, 2.2D terylene 26%, CM800 elastic filament 14%; Warp count: 466/10cm, weft count: 490/10cm, fabric width: 152cm, weight per square meter: 161. 2g/m2, meter Chong: 245g/m.
The above, be only the specific embodiment of the present invention, but protection scope of the present invention is not limited to this, and any variation of expecting without creative work or replacement, within all should being encompassed in protection scope of the present invention.Therefore, protection scope of the present invention should be as the criterion with the protection domain that claims were limited.
Claims (2)
1. a CM800 elasticity fancy worsted, by warp thread (1) and weft yarn (2), be interwoven, it is characterized in that, wherein warp thread (1) is a high wool-polyester yarn (3), and weft yarn (2) adopts a high wool-polyester yarn (3) to be spaced to beat up with 75D/1CM800 elastic filament (4) and forms; It is by 90 that described height props up wool-polyester yarn
saustralia's hair and 2.2D blend polyester are made; In this fancy worsted 90
sthe weight ratio of Australia's hair is 60%, the weight ratio of 2.2D terylene is 26%, the weight ratio of 75D/1CM800 elastic filament is 14%.
2. the production method of CM800 elasticity fancy worsted according to claim 1, it comprises following steps:
(1), first by 90
saustralian wool, 2.2D polyster fibre dye recombing through bar and make bar, then make a high wool-polyester yarn through spinning;
(2), the height of making propped up to wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament adopt warp thread to weave for a high wool-polyester yarn, weft yarn adopt a high wool-polyester yarn and 75D/1CM800 elastic filament to be spaced to beat up to form, obtain the grey cloth of fancy worsted; Wherein:
Described weaving process comprises warping → gait, denting → weaving → base inspection → raw repairing; Wherein the parameter of warping technology is linear velocity 300m/min, beaming linear velocity 50m/min, yarn tension 3.5 degree, beaming tension force 1kg, 330 revs/min of the loom speed of a motor vehicle; Adjustment is back rest front and back position 105cm through the position line, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm, tension force 200KG; Require in process of production CM800 elastic filament bobbin, weft accumulator, tension piece, weft detector, color selection box rifle head and each porcelain eye passage without burr;
(3), fancy worsted grey cloth is carried out to dyeing and finishing, its technique is: base examines → singes → and flatly boil → wash contracting → open-width → flat and boil → shape softness → ripe repairing → bristle → singe → put down and boil → dry → dewing → high pressure steaming → tank steaming → boiling hot steaming → tank steaming → finished product; Wherein: in whole dyeing and finishing process, fabric need to be open width shape, without rope form, controlling temperature is 160 ~ 170 ℃; The positive and negative of singing respectively once; Bristle technique is 2 positive 1 anti-.
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Cited By (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN104294454A (en) * | 2014-10-18 | 2015-01-21 | 江苏澳洋纺织实业有限公司 | Comfortable and elastic tweed |
| CN104397908A (en) * | 2014-12-22 | 2015-03-11 | 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 | Production method of high-count high-brightness easy-care travelling shell fabric |
| CN104988640A (en) * | 2015-07-11 | 2015-10-21 | 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 | Double-layered and double-faced hollow warming wool spinning fabric weaving and manufacturing method |
| CN105544046A (en) * | 2016-02-26 | 2016-05-04 | 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 | Preparing technology for wool and cotton elastic worsted tweed |
| CN108342812A (en) * | 2018-02-26 | 2018-07-31 | 张家港普坤毛纺织染有限公司 | A kind of mixed cloth and the heat masking processing method using it |
| CN108385237A (en) * | 2018-02-26 | 2018-08-10 | 张家港普坤毛纺织染有限公司 | A kind of mixed cloth and apply its ultraviolet resistant treatment method |
| CN109208153A (en) * | 2018-09-14 | 2019-01-15 | 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 | Gao Zhimei elater permanently plays the production technology of worsted fabric |
| CN110699804A (en) * | 2019-10-16 | 2020-01-17 | 江苏华鹿纺织有限公司 | Sirospun yarn based on CM800 stretch yarn and preparation method thereof |
| CN115491806A (en) * | 2022-10-10 | 2022-12-20 | 山东南山智尚科技股份有限公司 | Method for producing semi-combed windproof fabric by using worsted wool loops |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN109208153A (en) * | 2018-09-14 | 2019-01-15 | 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 | Gao Zhimei elater permanently plays the production technology of worsted fabric |
| CN110699804A (en) * | 2019-10-16 | 2020-01-17 | 江苏华鹿纺织有限公司 | Sirospun yarn based on CM800 stretch yarn and preparation method thereof |
| CN115491806A (en) * | 2022-10-10 | 2022-12-20 | 山东南山智尚科技股份有限公司 | Method for producing semi-combed windproof fabric by using worsted wool loops |
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