CN106283354A - The production technology of the double spandex thread elastic force jean of superelevation bullet - Google Patents
The production technology of the double spandex thread elastic force jean of superelevation bullet Download PDFInfo
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- CN106283354A CN106283354A CN201610723554.3A CN201610723554A CN106283354A CN 106283354 A CN106283354 A CN 106283354A CN 201610723554 A CN201610723554 A CN 201610723554A CN 106283354 A CN106283354 A CN 106283354A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/22—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using vat dyestuffs including indigo
- D06P1/228—Indigo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
- D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
- D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
- D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
- D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
- D06P1/67375—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341 with sulfur-containing anions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/003—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated using vat or sulfur dyes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
- D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
- D06P3/24—Polyamides; Polyurethanes
- D06P3/243—Polyamides; Polyurethanes using vat or sulfur dyes, indigo
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to the double spandex thread elastic force jean production technology of a kind of superelevation bullet, summarize the production essentials of the double spandex thread elastic force jean of superelevation bullet, describe the technological process of production and the technological parameter of elastic force jean；Formulate reasonably spinning and winding process；Optimize weaving process and postfinishing process, it is ensured that the smooth production of denim；Summarize easy produced problem during denim produces, and give solution.Making elastic force jean produce smoothly, fabric quality index is preferable.Use double spandex thread elastic force weft yarn can be effectively improved elastic elongation and the elastic recovery rate of jean, give the snugness of fit that fabric is excellent.
Description
Technical field:
The present invention relates to the double spandex thread elastic force jean production technology of a kind of superelevation bullet, belong to denim production Technology neck
Territory.
Background technology:
At present, stockinette, because its elastic force is excellent, comfortableness is increasingly favored by Ms, with elastic polyurethane fiber silk face fabric is
Outstanding representative.20 century 70s, whippy spandex initially enters fashion, has the elastic force jeans of close-fitting effect
Become significant dress at that time.[2]The elastic fibers such as spandex are introduced into jean, can make the close-fitting characteristic of jeans
With can free activity organically combine, also improve the crease-resistant of jeans simultaneously and spin contracting performance, once release along speed stream
OK, the favorite in market is become.In recent years Jeanswear Market progressively enlivens, and elastic denim fabric is the emphasis of jeans development,
The appearance that denim is the maddest in the past that elastic force cowboy is not only graceful, and add not at aspects such as clothing materials, cutting, washings
Few new light tone, becomes the business opportunity that cowboy businessman is eager to catch in the most crowded cowboy market.Along with social life
Progressive, dress is required more and more higher by people, and consumer increasingly payes attention to the elastic persistency of jeans, wearing comfort
And visual sense of beauty, especially more and more higher to the aeroelastic requirements of women's dress elastic denim fabric.Generally the best dress of jeans elasticity is more
Comfortable, but easily make jeans become lax, lack aesthetic feeling.The most each jean producer technical staff takes various side one after another
Method is to increase the elasticity of jean.But along with elastic increase, replying with regard to phase strain differential, wearing constriction increases, binding force
Strengthen, the especially elasticity of the current popular superelevation elasticity fabric more than more than 70%.
Summary of the invention:
The invention aims to solve easy produced problem during existing denim produces, it is provided that one can effectively carry
The elastic elongation of high jean and elastic recovery rate, give the double spandex thread elastic force of superelevation bullet of the excellent snugness of fit of fabric
Denim manufacturing technique.
For achieving the above object, the technical solution used in the present invention is:
The double spandex thread elastic force jean production technology of a kind of superelevation bullet, solves and how to make Lycra 40D and Lycra 70D spandex
Silk, in the same one thread of the most parallel feeding, and does not produces a rebound phenomenon because two kinds of spandex threads are elastic inconsistent, Wo Mengen
According to spinning equipment feature, carry out process optimization pointedly, solve two kinds of spandex threads and produce a resilience because elasticity is inconsistent
Problem, uses the English Weida Lycra spandex thread of elastic stability, fixing drafting multiple, further ensures that denim elastic elongation and bullet
Property reply stablize；By rational porter and upper machine filling density optimized choice when weaving cotton cloth, make denim finished product elastic elongation and bullet
Property elongation recovery percentage is taken into account.The elastic elongation of elastic force jean and elastic elongation response rate are conflict bodies, pass through reed
Number elastic elongation is made to be taken into account with reply with the optimized choice of cloth machine filling density.
The present invention comprises the following steps:
1. the double spandex thread elastic force jean production technology of superelevation bullet, it is characterised in that comprise the following steps:
1) spinning process
1.1) selection distributed cotton
During the double spandex thread covering yarn of production this programme weft yarn is distributed cotton, preferential selection fibre length is longer, regularity
Preferably, monofilament strength is higher, and mic value is moderate, distributes cotton containing short flannel, cotton miscellaneous less raw cotton, and entirety distributes cotton selection completely
Foot cotton fiber upper half mean length >=29mm, between mic value 3.7-4.2, monofilament strength >=2.9CN/tex, short flannel contains
One or two grades of the Xinjiang high quality cotton of amount≤4.5%；
1.2) formulation of spinning process and the measure taked
In whole spinning process, use Lycra 40D and Lycra 70D spandex thread, in the same one thread of the most parallel feeding,
Spandex thread drafting multiple selects between 2.0-3.0 times, simultaneously in order to improve the bale of cotton double spandex gauze cladding quality, reduces naked silk
Phenomenon, rove is changed into the bifilar feeding of SEILE textile, piece close outer wrapping fiber of two spandex thread outgoing positions by the feeding of original sub-thread
Left side yarn, another root, near two root hair bar middle parts, properly increases the twist on the premise of meeting cloth cover pliability simultaneously,
Twist factor selects to improve about 15%, between 400-420 than normal yarn；Spun yarn main process design: total draft multiple
25.77 times, back zone drafting multiple 1.25 times, the twist 68.13 twists with the fingers/10cm, twist factor 411, roller gauge 19mm × 22mm, rings
PG2, wire loop G04#, jaw 3.0mm, front roller speed 185r/min；
1.3) winding procedure
Spun yarn cop is placed in yarn steaming machine before winder and carry out yarn steaming, spandex thread is suitably shaped, change two
Hole splicing cavity, than normal yarn, reasonable prolongation twists with the fingers head region, suitably increases and twists with the fingers knot cavity pressure, extends and twist with the fingers the knot time；Winding procedure
In the case of ensureing good bobbin molding, suitably reducing winder speed, reducing influence of winding tension, in order to avoid causing the meaning to spandex thread
Outer drawing-off；
2) pulp technique
Use pencil staining machine to carry out pencil dyeing, when ball of yarn axle, must assure that the uniform tension in order of yarn, dyeing produce
The major control point of process is to control stablizing of dye liquor, and sodium hydrosulfite and pH value must be stablized to guarantee dyed yarn aborning
The color light stabilizing of line, if the reddest sodium hydrosulfite of coloured light and pH can suitably heighten, if the inclined green light of coloured light can suitably turn down sodium hydrosulfite and pH
Value is to ensure color light stabilizing, if color is the most shallow properly increases indigo content in staining bath, if color can suitably be turned down indigo the most deeply
Content；
3) weaving process
Use Belgium Bi Jianuo OPtiMaX-230 molded breadth breadth rapier loom, weaving process according to " early opening, hightension,
The high back rest, low speed " technological principle weave, increased to 96 by 48, every limit limit yarn of low elasticity fabric during weaving, with
Increase selvedge width, reduce edge-curl phenomenon during Final finishing；
4) postfinishing process measure
The high-elastic bigger employing of jean internal stress is singed one time, the postfinishing process that preshrunk is twice, employing three roads of singing
Burner, two forward one-reverse, speed 75m/min, temperature of singing is low, and speed wants fast, and cropping temperature is low, it is to avoid spandex thread high temperature is subject to
Damage impact elasticity；
5) spandex thread elastic force jean every physical indexs double to superelevation bullet are tested.
Described step 2) in pencil dyeing flow process as follows:
Warp thread → kiering (80 DEG C) → hot water wash together (60 DEG C) together → wash 2 roads (room temperature) → indigo 8 roads (room temperature)
→ wash (60 DEG C) → drying cylinder drying together of 5 roads (room temperature) → softening agent.
Described step 2) in pencil dyeing main technologic parameters be: dyeing speed 20m/min, staining bath nip pressure
0.5MPa, kiering alkali 8g/L～10g/L, penetrating agent 6g/L in kiering groove；In staining bath, indigo 2.0g/L～2.2g/L, sodium hydrosulfite
1.6g/L～1.8g/L, pH value 11.2～11.4, potential value-760mv～-820mv；Indigo replenisher formula: indigo 75kg, protects
Danger powder 100kg, Caustic soda 75kg, penetrating agent 6kg, volume 1 000L；Indigo supplementary flow: 3600mL/min；Softening agent groove: soft
Agent 100g/L, amido silicon oil 5g/L.
Described step 3) in weaving process be: speed 450r/min, total quantity of warps 5724, porter 61.5 teeth/10cm,
Denting reed width 232.7cm, upper machine fabric width 221cm～223cm, warp tension 3700N, upper 182/10cm of machine filling density, rear deck-molding
Degree 11cm；The ground tissue openings time 312 °, Selvage Stitch opening time 296 °；Ground tissue heald frame height 19mm, 17mm, 15mm,
13mm, Selvage Stitch heald frame height 21mm, 19mm；Warp yarns shrinkage 10%, broadwise weave shrinkage 4%；Selvage Stitch uses on two two times
Through galassing.
The invention have the advantage that the elasticity of the double spandex thread elastic force jean of the superelevation bullet produced through this technique is compacter,
It is more reasonable to reply, and by spinning, pulp, weave cotton cloth, the optimization design of the operation such as Final finishing so that denim each
Item physical index is taken into account well, and the development of the double spandex thread elastic force jean of superelevation bullet makes denim snugness of fit
It is greatly improved, meets the demand of scale and market diversification simultaneously, be that a market demands, the prospect of meeting is wide
Wealthy novel elastic jean.
Detailed description of the invention:
The double spandex thread elastic force jean warp thread of the superelevation bullet that the present invention produces uses SEILE textile cotton 36.4tex slub.Latitude
Yarn uses the stretch yarn of SEILE textile cotton 29.1tex common yarn bag (Pu44.4dtex+Pu77.7dtex) spandex continuous yarn.On spinning rank
Section, it is desirable to warp thread ring to be controlled well, it is to avoid the generation of the situations such as ring drift, produces the double spandex thread covering yarn of the weft yarn bale of cotton
During whole, conservative control to spin each procedure technology parameter, strictly control the quality index of each operation well, it is ensured that resultant yarn matter
Amount, avoids Lou gauze or the generation of fracture of wire during the production of weft yarn spun yarn, and the feeding technique of two spandex threads to control stable.Weaving
Use Belgium's Bi Jianuo OptiMax-230 molded breadth breadth rapier loom, use on three twill left to right tissue once.Just singe employing two
One anti-high speed singeing, Final finishing shrinking processes use Morrison's preshrinking machine preshrunk twice, improve cloth surface evenness.It is designed to
496/10cm of product end count, 248/10cm of finished product filling density, become a width of 120cm of split.
1. spinning process difficult point and the measure taked
1.1 selections distributed cotton
During the double spandex thread covering yarn of production this programme weft yarn is distributed cotton, the performance indications of our the most preferred raw cotton, logical
Crossing Wu Site HVI raw cotton film index testing instrument and raw cotton bag is carried out accurate index test, preferential selection fibre length is longer, regularity
Preferably, monofilament strength is higher, and mic value is moderate, distributes cotton containing short flannel, cotton miscellaneous less raw cotton, and entirety distributes cotton selection completely
Foot cotton fiber upper half mean length >=29mm, between mic value 3.7-4.2, monofilament strength >=2.9CN/tex, short flannel contains
One or two grades of the Xinjiang high quality cotton of the indexs such as amount≤4.5%.
The formulation of 1.2 spinning process and the measure taked
In whole spinning process, spinning process is the main operation of spinning cotton polyurethane core-spun yarn quality control, removes
Normal controlling beyond conventional yarn qualities index, emphasis also to be arranged and block lathe work operation from scrap build, technique
Do a good job of it covering yarn quality, reduce inclined silk, without the harmful effect that cloth cover causes by fault such as silk, Rose, drawing-off be bad.Many institute's weeks
Knowing, stretch yarn increases along with the increase of spandex thread rugosity in the spinning difficulty of spinning process, and drawing-off is irregular with Rose's phenomenon
Having increase probability, use Lycra 40D and Lycra 70D spandex thread in this programme, in the same one thread of the most parallel feeding, core filaments increases
Slightly further increasing Rose's risk, my company technique personnel, through repeatedly reforming test, the most successfully develop a set of pair of ammonia
Synthetic fibre gauze feeding unit, makes the most parallel feeding of 40D with 70D spandex thread, and does not produces because two kinds of spandex threads are elastic inconsistent
Silk rebound phenomenon, spandex thread drafting multiple selects between 2.0-3.0 times, simultaneously in order to improve the bale of cotton double spandex gauze cladding matter
Amount, reduces naked silk phenomenon, and rove is changed into the bifilar feeding of SEILE textile by the feeding of original sub-thread, and two spandex thread outgoing positions one lean on
Yarn on the left of nearly outer wrapping fiber, another root is near two root hair bar middle parts, simultaneously suitable on the premise of meeting cloth cover pliability
When improving the twist, twist factor selects to improve about 15% than normal yarn, between 400-420, reduces silk rebound phenomenon；For
Minimizing silk breaks stock, fracture of wire phenomenon, reasonable selection wire loop, and formulates rational wire loop and use the cycle, and changes in time and decline
Move back wire loop, in order to avoid cutting off spandex thread.Spun yarn main process design: total draft multiple 25.77 times, back zone drafting multiple 1.25
Times, the twist 68.13 twists with the fingers/10cm, twist factor 411, roller gauge 19mm × 22mm, rings PG2, wire loop G04#, jaw
3.0mm, front roller speed 185r/min.The service work of spun yarn maintenance worker to be strengthened when producing, saves maintenance from damage and adjusts board
Time must assure that two spandex threads and rove yarn tram of meet at roller nip, it is impossible to have deviation phenomenon, must
Will time with little torch viewing spandex thread and rove yarn situation, make necessary adjustment, make spandex thread with rove yarn all the time
Keeping optimum position, the simultaneously sight of unified different inspection personnel, first time during adjustment doffs and must process, to stop naked silk
Phenomenon；Spun yarn tender need to strengthen the hygiene work of spun yarn board, reduces flyings fault, clear to reduce from network operation electricity
Shear number of times, reduce splicer joint, it is ensured that cowboy becomes the covering yarn cloth cover effect that cloth cloth cover is good, strengthens operation touring simultaneously
Work, strengthens without silk, inclined silk and the inspection work of scarce stock silk, and spinner to accomplish following job requirement: must when 1) spinning
Must guarantee whole chassis spandex thread the most up and down, spandex thread size is wanted consistent, to ensure spandex spinning cake unwinding tension concordance, is subtracted
Few cause spandex thread drawing-off difference because tension force is inconsistent, cause into cloth split shakiness phenomenon, will be according to spandex thread when changing spandex thread
On cake, spinning cake is placed in the direction of mark, necessarily can not be inverted, in order to avoid causing misdraft or fracture of wire phenomenon；2) spinner is making machine
During platform cleaning, will handle with care, forbid " clap, beat, flutter, fan ", cause flyings, be attached on yarn, it is unnecessary to be formed
Yarn defect, causes and cuts defect from network electricity is clear, form too much splicer joint, affect final fabric quality；3) touring process is being operated
In, going through, adjustment spandex thread is not in yarn tram phenomenon in time, prevents inclined gauze, processes disconnected spandex in time
Silk, to prevent without gauze or scarce gauze；4) individual processing is wanted in the lap waste of suction bellows, prevents rubber yarn.
1.3 winding procedure
Spun yarn cop is placed in yarn steaming machine before winder and carry out yarn steaming, spandex thread is suitably shaped, to reduce
Spandex thread bounces back, improper due to spandex thread sth. made by twisting knot when winder is spliced, and easily causes spandex thread rebound phenomenon, twists with the fingers tieing position and easily occur
Fault without silk, in order to solve this fault, we combined workshop technical staff contrasts through test of many times, has formulated on reasonably
Machine parameter, makes sth. made by twisting tieing quality finally adapt to later process and produces.Mainly it is improved to: change holes splicing cavity, compare normal yarn
Rationally extend and twist with the fingers head region, suitably increase and twist with the fingers knot cavity pressure, extend and twist with the fingers the knot time.Winding procedure is ensureing good bobbin molding
In the case of, suitably reducing winder speed, reducing influence of winding tension, in order to avoid causing the misdraft to spandex thread.
2. pulp technological measure
To have color fastness good in pencil dyeing, the advantages such as the saturating core of yarn is good, passes through after lease making sizing again, can avoid after dyeing
The problem of aberration in the limit that sizing-dyeing machine easily occurs, improves beam of a loom quality, and therefore we select to use pencil staining machine to enter
The dyeing of row pencil produces.The uniform tension in order of yarn is must assure that when ball of yarn axle.The major control point of dyeing production process is
Controlling stablizing of dye liquor, the uniformity of guarantee yarn color stablized by only dye liquor, so needing knot in startup procedure
Close the color change dyeing yarn, adjust each constituent content in dye liquor in time, it is ensured that the colour stable of yarn dyeing, sodium hydrosulfite
Must stablize to guarantee the color light stabilizing of dyed yarn aborning with pH value, if the reddest sodium hydrosulfite of coloured light and pH can suitably adjust
Height, if the inclined green light of coloured light can suitably turn down sodium hydrosulfite and pH value to ensure color light stabilizing, if color is the most shallow properly increases staining bath
In indigo content, if color can suitably turn down indigo content the most deeply.
Pencil dyeing flow process is as follows:
Warp thread → kiering (80 DEG C) → hot water wash together (60 DEG C) together → wash 2 roads (room temperature) → indigo 8 roads (room temperature)
→ wash (60 DEG C) → drying cylinder drying together of 5 roads (room temperature) → softening agent.
Pencil dyeing main technologic parameters: dyeing speed 20m/min, staining bath nip pressure 0.5MPa, kiering in kiering groove
Alkali 8g/L～10g/L, penetrating agent 6g/L.In staining bath, indigo 2.0g/L～2.2g/L, sodium hydrosulfite 1.6g/L～1.8g/L, pH value
11.2～11.4, potential value-760mv～-820mv；Indigo replenisher formula: indigo 75kg, sodium hydrosulfite 100kg, Caustic soda 75kg,
Penetrating agent 6kg, volume 1000L；Indigo supplementary flow: 3600mL/min.
Softening agent groove: softening agent 100g/L, amido silicon oil 5g/L.
Warp thread yarn lease making on HFGA135 type dividing sinker warping machine after pencil dyes, lease making speed 180m/min,
Single thread dynamic tension 18～20cN/ root.The ready-made warp beam of lease making makes beam of a loom in ASGA365-D type warp sizing machine starching.SEILE textile
Yarn has the feature of similar strand, and strength is high, filoplume is few, and therefore sizing is for the purpose of ensureing follow-up weaving smoothly, takes suitably
Increasing strength and filoplume patch volt, sizing of controlling well extends, and ensures that warp thread elastic force is principle, is beneficial to weaving.Sizing produce time one
The uniformity of starching to be controlled well, starching is overweight or kicks the beam and all cloth cover feel and physical index etc. can be produced bad shadow
Ring.Sizing moisture regain guarantees stable, and moisture regain height easily causes the adhesion of yarn and causes opening of weaving cotton cloth unclear, and sizing moisture regain is on the low side easily
Cause the brittle failure of warp thread, reduce weaving efficiency.Sizing divides comb uniformly, it is to avoid strand problem also occur.Sizing produces
Main slurry, is aided with the auxiliary agents such as a small amount of M-5, wax disk(-sc), oil emulsion.Drying temperature 120 DEG C～130 DEG C, sizing percentage elongation≤1%,
Sized warp moisture regain 5%～7%, the rate of sizing 10%～13%.Slashing technique: sizing speed 40m/min, stock tank roll first pressing
0.3MPa, stock tank roll final pressure 0.2MPa；Starch 75kg, M-53kg, wax disk(-sc) 0.2kg, oil emulsion 1.5kg, volume 750L；Stock tank
Temperature 96 DEG C～98 DEG C, stock tank viscosity 5s～7s, solid content 9%～11%, after waxing 1.5 ‰, sized warp moisture regain 5%～7%.
3. weaving process measure
Owing to double spandex thread weft yarns are high-elastic yarns, when weaving, we use four weft accumulator wefting insertion, reduce tension difference, prolong
The long weft yarn time of staying, when weaving, owing to 40D with 70D spandex thread elasticity is inconsistent, being easily generated a rebound phenomenon, we adopt
Take the problem that the way of suitable increase wefting insertion length solves silk resilience.In order to ensure the cloth style of jean smooth,
Full, we weave employing Belgium Bi Jianuo OPtiMaX-230 molded breadth breadth rapier loom, and weaving process is according to " early opening, big
Tension force, the high back rest, low speed " technological principle weave, concrete weaving process: speed 450r/min, total quantity of warps 5724
Root, porter 61.5 teeth/10cm, denting reed width 232.7cm, upper machine fabric width 221cm～223cm, warp tension 3700N, upper machine latitude
Close 182/10cm, back beam height 11cm；The ground tissue openings time 312 °, Selvage Stitch opening time 296 °；Ground tissue heald frame is high
Degree 19mm, 17mm, 15mm, 13mm, Selvage Stitch heald frame height 21mm, 19mm；Warp yarns shrinkage 10%, broadwise weave shrinkage 4%；Limit
Tissue uses on two two times through galassing.Because the design kind is the elastic elongation superlastic kind more than more than 70%, broadwise bounces back
Rate is relatively big, the more difficult control of fabric width, and in order to ensure the stability of fabric width, when weaving, workshop moisture temperature to be guaranteed is stable, it is to avoid have
Larger fluctuation, suitably increases cloth beam cloth winding tension, can not place the long period, dressing floor will be sent in time to enter after cropping of weaving cotton cloth
Row arranges；Owing to edge-curl phenomenon easily occurring when high-elastic kind arranges, increased to by 48, every limit limit yarn of low elasticity fabric during weaving
96, to increase selvedge width, reduce edge-curl phenomenon during Final finishing.
4. postfinishing process measure
The high-elastic bigger employing of jean internal stress is singed one time, the postfinishing process that preshrunk is twice, employing three roads of singing
Burner, two forward one-reverse, speed 75m/min.Owing to weft yarn elasticity is relatively big, easily plays fold, should not place for a long time after cropping,
Wanting timely perching and carry out rear whole, when singing, denim must guarantee that cloth cover is smooth before entering arrangment enters hair brushing box
Non-wrinkle in order to avoid causing bad problem of singing, and due to spandex thread non-refractory, so temperature of singing is low, speed wants fast,
Cropping temperature is low, it is to avoid spandex thread high temperature impaired impact elasticity.
Owing to the double spandex thread elastic force jean broadwise elasticity of superelevation bullet is relatively big, during preshrunk, easily produce flanging existing
As.In order to keep stable sizing, its bigger elastic elongation effect and good reply effect can be embodied again, to temperature
Degree, speed, the amount of compression of rubber blanket carry out adjustment repeatedly and test, singe, reduce in fabric swatch or vehicle after preshrunk as far as possible
Resting period, by research of technique and test of many times, have selected the preshrinking process of applicable high-elasticity fabric, and strictly control,
Obtain better effects.
5. the double every physical index of spandex thread elastic force jean of pair superelevation bullet is tested, test case such as following table:
By the enforcement of process above measure, this kind is entirely capable of reaching the requirement of design objective, meets the demand of client.
We have carried out test of many times on spinning process and have formulated the most double spandex thread spinning process, make the double spandex thread elastic force of superelevation bullet
The elasticity of denim is compacter, and it is more reasonable to reply, and by spinning, pulp, weave cotton cloth, the technique of the operation such as Final finishing excellent
Change design so that every physical index of denim is taken into account well, the development of the double spandex thread elastic force jean of superelevation bullet
Exploitation makes denim snugness of fit be greatly improved, and meets the demand of scale and market diversification simultaneously, is
A novel elastic jean meeting market demands, having a extensive future.
Claims (4)
1. the double spandex thread elastic force jean production technology of superelevation bullet, is characterized in that being to comprise the following steps:
1) spinning process
1.1) selection distributed cotton
During the double spandex thread covering yarn of production this programme weft yarn is distributed cotton, preferential selection fibre length is longer, regularity preferable,
Monofilament strength is higher, and mic value is moderate, distributes cotton containing short flannel, cotton miscellaneous less raw cotton, and entirety is distributed cotton and selected to meet cotton
Fiber upper half mean length >=29mm, between mic value 3.7-4.2, monofilament strength >=2.9CN/tex, short fibre content≤
One or two grades of the Xinjiang of 4.5% high quality cotton；
1.2) formulation of spinning process and the measure taked
In whole spinning process, use Lycra 40D and Lycra 70D spandex thread, in the same one thread of the most parallel feeding, spandex
Filament drafting multiple selects between 2.0-3.0 times, simultaneously in order to improve the bale of cotton double spandex gauze cladding quality, reduces naked silk existing
As, rove is changed into the bifilar feeding of SEILE textile by the feeding of original sub-thread, and two spandex thread outgoing positions one are left near outer wrapping fiber
Side yarn, another root near two root hair bar middle parts, properly increases the twist on the premise of meeting cloth cover pliability simultaneously, twists with the fingers
Coefficient selects to improve about 15%, between 400-420 than normal yarn；Spun yarn main process design: total draft multiple
25.77 times, back zone drafting multiple 1.25 times, the twist 68.13 twists with the fingers/10cm, twist factor 411, roller gauge 19mm × 22mm, rings
PG2, wire loop G04#, jaw 3.0mm, front roller speed 185r/min；
1.3) winding procedure
Spun yarn cop is placed in yarn steaming machine before winder and carry out yarn steaming, spandex thread is suitably shaped, change holes and twist with the fingers
Connecing chamber, than normal yarn, reasonable prolongation twists with the fingers head region, suitably increases and twists with the fingers knot cavity pressure, extends and twist with the fingers the knot time；Winding procedure is being protected
In the case of demonstrate,proving good bobbin molding, suitably reducing winder speed, reducing influence of winding tension, in order to avoid causing the accident to spandex thread to lead
Stretch；
2) pulp technique
Using pencil staining machine to carry out pencil dyeing, must assure that the uniform tension in order of yarn when ball of yarn axle, dye production process
Major control point be to control the stablizing of dye liquor, sodium hydrosulfite and pH value must be stablized to guarantee dyed yarn aborning
Color light stabilizing, if the reddest sodium hydrosulfite of coloured light and pH can suitably heighten, if the inclined green light of coloured light can suitably turn down sodium hydrosulfite and pH value with
Ensure color light stabilizing, if color is the most shallow properly increases indigo content in staining bath, if color can suitably turn down indigo content the most deeply；
3) weaving process
Using Belgium's Bi Jianuo OPtiMaX-230 molded breadth breadth rapier loom, weaving process is according to " early opening, hightension, Gao Hou
Beam, low speed " technological principle weave, increased to 96 by 48, every limit limit yarn of low elasticity fabric during weaving, with increase
Selvedge width, reduces edge-curl phenomenon during Final finishing；
4) postfinishing process measure
The high-elastic bigger employing of jean internal stress is singed one time, the postfinishing process that preshrunk is twice, employing three road burners of singing,
Two forward one-reverse, speed 75m/min, temperature of singing is low, and speed wants fast, and cropping temperature is low, it is to avoid the impaired shadow of spandex thread high temperature
Ring elasticity；
5) spandex thread elastic force jean every physical indexs double to superelevation bullet are tested.
The double spandex thread elastic force jean production technology of a kind of superelevation bullet the most according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described step
Rapid 2) the pencil dyeing flow process in is as follows:
Warp thread → kiering (80 DEG C) → hot water wash together (60 DEG C) together → wash 2 roads (room temperature) → indigo 8 roads (room temperature) → water
Wash 5 roads (room temperature) → softening agent (60 DEG C) → drying cylinder together to dry.
The double spandex thread elastic force jean production technology of a kind of superelevation bullet the most according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described step
Rapid 2) in, the main technologic parameters of pencil dyeing is: dyeing speed 20m/min, staining bath nip pressure 0.5MPa, boils in kiering groove
Practice alkali 8g/L～10g/L, penetrating agent 6g/L；In staining bath, indigo 2.0g/L～2.2g/L, sodium hydrosulfite 1.6g/L～1.8g/L, pH
Value 11.2～11.4, potential value-760mv～-820mv；Indigo replenisher formula: indigo 75kg, sodium hydrosulfite 100kg, Caustic soda
75kg, penetrating agent 6kg, volume 1 000L；Indigo supplementary flow: 3600mL/min；Softening agent groove: softening agent 100g/L, amino
Silicone oil 5g/L.
The double spandex thread elastic force jean production technology of a kind of superelevation bullet the most according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described step
Rapid 3) weaving process in is: speed 450r/min, total quantity of warps 5724, porter 61.5 teeth/10cm, denting reed width
232.7cm, upper machine fabric width 221cm～223cm, warp tension 3 700N, upper 182/10cm of machine filling density, back beam height 11cm；
The ground tissue openings time 312 °, Selvage Stitch opening time 296 °；Ground tissue heald frame height 19mm, 17mm, 15mm, 13mm, limit group
Knit heald frame height 21mm, 19mm；Warp yarns shrinkage 10%, broadwise weave shrinkage 4%；Selvage Stitch uses on two two times through galassing.
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