CN108085827A - A kind of production technology of cotton, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric - Google Patents

A kind of production technology of cotton, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN108085827A
CN108085827A CN201710933401.6A CN201710933401A CN108085827A CN 108085827 A CN108085827 A CN 108085827A CN 201710933401 A CN201710933401 A CN 201710933401A CN 108085827 A CN108085827 A CN 108085827A
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yarn
fabric
sizing
warp
cotton
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瞿建新
刘梅城
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/04Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/203Unsaturated carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/11Starch or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10Animal fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/40Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of cotton, the production technologies of Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric, include the following steps:Product main points;Winder;Warping;Sizing;Drawing-in;Weaving.Cotton, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric in the present invention, it is a kind of high true silk like fabric kind fabric, silkworm fiber is made up in performance the defects of, maintain original noble, graceful, the elegant and good hygroscopicity of Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics, dress is nice and cool to wait excellent performances, and overcomes that mulberry silk fiber is acidproof, alkali resistance is poor, after solarization the defects of the easy aging of protein fibre, jaundice, poor wrinkle resistance, the complementation in performance is realized, the cost price of fabric significantly declines.Compared with cotton fabric, color is beautiful, and feel is smooth, and the comfort of dress is especially good, is the wearing fabric of a top grade, is the direction of Sericulture Future Development.

Description

A kind of production technology of cotton, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric knitting fields, and in particular to Yi Zhongmian, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric Production technology.
Background technology
Mulberry silk is a kind of protein fibre, has graceful gloss, fiber finer and soft, good, the good hygroscopicity of elasticity, There is health-care effect to skin, Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics has smooth elegant grade excellent performances, is one of best fabric of summer clothes, There is the title of the second skin.But mulberry silk is at high price, and fabric is yielding, and wrinkle resistance is poor, and light fastness is poor, and the time has grown meeting Turn yellow, gradually lose market in modern society.
Modal fibre is the environmental friendly regenerated cellulose fibre of new generation of green, has good flexibility and excellent suction Moist, good luster is bright-colored, and fabric feeling is smooth, and drapability is good, some similar natures with mulberry silk, will not be as silkworm Silk fiber what kind of aging, jaundice, and the good stability of the dimension of fabric, have natural wrinkle resistance and easy-care properties;With cotton fiber It compares, the more washes the more soft, the more wash the more beautiful.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention:In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of cotton, Modal/mulberry silk are multigroup Divide the production technology of jacquard fabric.
Technical solution:The production technology of a kind of cotton, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric, includes the following steps:
(1), product main points:Warp thread selects 7.3tex cotton yarns, medium staple cotton and 20% long wool cotton blend of the yarn by 80% The Compact-spun Yarn formed;Weft yarn uses 1.1dtex Modal fibres with fineness for 1.3dtex silkworm silk blends, and Modal/ The blending ratio of mulberry silk is 70/30;
(2), winder:HS-101CS type semi-automatic bobbin winders are selected, warp thread is 7.3tex combed yarns;Weft yarn is 12.3tex Modal/mulberry silk mixed yarn;Winder is using " low velocity, small tension receiving coil " technique as basic principle, low velocity small tension receiving coil technique, energy The generation of minimizing electrostatic, so as to reduce secondary filoplume, winder speed is 500m/min;This fabric is used as high-grade fabric, is Ensure the quality of yarn, after Yarn break, use hand held air splicer connector;
(3), warping:The production of HFJ800 types sizing warper is selected, the capacity of bobbin cradle is 800;Total quantity of warps is 8360 Root, full width are divided into 11 strands, are 760 per twisted warp radical, additional tension needs segmented configuration, and bobbin cradle is divided into three sections, leading portion Additional tension washer weight is 9g, and stage casing additional tension washer weight is 8g, and back segment additional tension washer weight is 7g, is true It is uniform to protect piece yarn tension, when production needs collective's creeling;
(4), sizing:
Warp count is big, and single thread force is low, when setting slashing technique, with " low velocity, small tension receiving coil, be impregnated with, ask coating " again For basic principle.
Formula of size is:Converted starch 70%+ solid propenoic acids 30%;Warp thread is 7.3tex cotton yarns, is mixed according to similar Principle, consider during sizing formula, it is necessary to select the converted starch of low viscosity as main slurry, due to through close higher, yarn list Yarn strength it is low, for reduce sizing when warp thread between adhesion, add solid propenoic acid class slurry in formula;Solid propenoic acid Class slurry, leasing performance is good, is easy to immerse yarn interior, favourable to enhancing, while warp end break when can reduce leasing, protects Hold the complete of serous coat;
Low temperature starching:Slurry groove temperature is controlled between 35 DEG C -45 DEG C, and the temperature of slurries is directly controlled by mixing cirtern, slurries It is no longer heat up after conveying into stock tank;
Drying chamber temperature:Warp thread is 7.3tex yarns, and wet area's drying chamber temperature is 120 DEG C, due to wet area, the moisture content ratio of yarn Higher, yarn is not easy by transition drying, thus temperature can be higher;Dry area's drying chamber temperature is 100 DEG C, and dry area's temperature is low, energy Effectively prevent sizing transition drying, temperature also should not be low again, because temperature is low, drying rate is slow, influences production efficiency, may be used also Regain can be caused excessive, cause yarn adhesion;
Sizing speed:40m/min-45m/min.Yarn count is thin, and single thread force is low, and sizing speed should not be fast, because sizing is fast Degree is fast, first, during yarn leasing, leasing resistance is big, easily causes leasing lappers;Second is that during yarn leasing, easily tear is starched Film causes sizing not wear-resisting, third, sizing speed is fast, it is necessary to which the higher temperature of drying chamber, when handling yarn warp end break, can cause The transition drying of yarn, causes brittle failure head, and more than various reasons all determine that sizing speed is advisable with middle low velocity;
Mud-jacking technology:Starching mechanism is double-clip-double-nip starching mechanism, and since yarn count is thin, when starching should pay attention to sizing Coating, will also take into account and be impregnated with, therefore mud-jacking technology, using mud-jacking technology light after preceding weight, the breadth control for often twisting starching exists 55cm, the pressure of preceding squeezing roller is 0.44Mpa, and probably in 242kg, the pressure control of post jacking roller exists actual starching pressure 0.28Mpa, actual pressure are about 154kg.Preceding squeezing roller pressure is big, and slurries are squeezed into yarn interior, and formation is impregnated with, after Squeezing roller pressure is small, and slurries stay in yam surface, forms coating;
The rate of sizing:Warp thread is thinner, needs during starching to be preferably impregnated with and be coated, rate of sizing system is between 14%-15%;
Regain:Warp thread is thinner, and during sizing, sized warp moisture regain wants control bigger than normal, regain control 7%-7.5% it Between.Sized warp moisture regain is small, when processing sizing breaks end, be easy to cause the transition drying of warp thread, causes brittle failure head.Sized warp moisture regain Also should not be big again, sized warp moisture regain is big, the adhesion being likely to result between yarn, and when weaving easily causes shed open unintelligible;
(5), drawing-in:It comprehensive is woven using page 16;Body:3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,7,8, 9,12,15,16,3,4,9,10,11,12,3,4,5,6,10,7,13,9,5,6,8,11,13,14,15,16,3,5,7,9,11, 13,15,4,6,8,10,5,14,16,3,4,7,8,11,12,15,16,5,6,9,10,13,14,3,11,7,9,10,6,12, 16,3,11,8,9,13,14,15,5,10,4,11,12,13,10,7,8,12,13,14,4,5,6,10,11,12,16,3,4, 8,9,10,14,15,16,3,4,5,9,10,11,15,12,5,10,8,9,3,7,11,6,15,12,9,14;Selvedge wears 1-2 pages Comprehensive, a flower drawing-in period is 132;
(6), weave:It is woven using GA718 type air-jet looms, loom rotating speed is 520r/min;
Temple mark:The filling density of fabric is larger, weft yarn be not easy it is urgent, fell generate travelling, easily produced on the both sides of fabric Raw temple mark;To reduce the generation of temple mark, first, to use early opening, opening time is determined as 300 °;Opening time is early, During beating, warp thread is big to the angle of contact of weft yarn, and weft yarn is easily urgent;Second is that properly increase rear depth of beam, the back rest uses + 1 scale, rear deck-molding, levels warp tension difference is big, and weft yarn is easily urgent;Third, increase the number of rings of temple, using list 48 ring temple of row;Temple number of rings is more, strong to the control ability of cloth cover, reduces the travelling of cloth cover, reduces the production of temple mark It is raw;
Whiff pressure:Modal/mulberry silk scribbled, structure is more loose, and young pilose antler sense is strong, and single thread force is relatively low, jet When loom weaves, whiff pressure control less than normal;To reduce whiff pressure, we reduce the gauge of pilot jet, auxiliary spray interval Control is in below 6cm, and for the spacing of last two groups of pilot jets in 4cm or so, the pressure of so auxiliary spray only needs 0.25Mpa- 0.28Mpa, the pressure of main jet also only needs 0.22Mpa-0.25 Mpa, substantially will not be because when weaving since whiff pressure is small It is blown for weft yarn, and long latitude is caused to stop platform;
Gentle breeze:Weft yarn is thinner, and structure is more loose, and to reduce the few untwisting of latitude, gentle breeze is advisable with small, as long as gentle breeze energy Ensure that weft yarn will not exit main burner.Gentle breeze is controlled between 0.07Mpa-0.08Mpa;
Shed length:Through close big, shed open is not easy clearly, to shorten rear portion shed length, can increase warp thread during shed open full gate Tension, it is clearly favourable to shed open;
Warp tension:Fabric through close bigger, shed open is not easy clearly, and warp tension control bigger than normal controls 175kg;
Under fabric after machine, dispatching from the factory as a roll, fabric not fold, in order to avoid generate folding line.
As an optimization:Fabric specification:Fabric breadth is 157.4cm, fabric through it is close be 537.5/10cm, fabric filling density For 583/10cm, porter 128, reed width 166cm, it is 2 that ground tissue, which penetrates number, and it is 2 that Selvage Stitch, which penetrates number, and one meter through length For 1.12, comprehensive number of pages is 16;Total quantity of warps 8360, wherein 120, side yarn.
As an optimization:Color yarn arrangement:Warp thread is 7.3tex black combed yarns, and weft yarn mixes for 12.3tex Modals/silkworm Spinning;Weft yarn is there are three types of color, and A is 12.3tex fuchsins, and B is dark red for 12.3tex, and C is bright red for 12.3tex, and barry dyeing is arranged as 1A1B1A1C, 4 weft yarns, one Xun Huan;Fabric tissue small jacquard, comprehensive using page 16, a flower weft yarn period is for plain weave 360 latitudes;The selvedge of fabric is 120 yarns.
As an optimization:The Fabric width of fabric is 147.5cm, finished product through it is close be 567/10cm, finished product filling density is 591 Root/10cm is 10.7% through crimp, and latitude crimp is 5.2%, and it is 9.4% to arrange width shrinkage, arranges long shrinkage as 1.4%.
Advantageous effect:Cotton, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric in the present invention is a kind of high true silk like fabric class Fabric selects 7.3tex combed yarns as warp thread, using 12.3tex Modals/mulberry silk mixed yarn as weft yarn, three kinds of fibres Tie up the intertexture of combination, make up silkworm fiber in performance the defects of, maintain Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics it is original it is noble, graceful, float Ease and good hygroscopicity, wear it is nice and cool wait excellent performances, and overcome that mulberry silk fiber is acidproof, alkali resistance is poor, albumen after solarization The defects of easy aging of matter fiber, jaundice, poor wrinkle resistance, realizes the complementation in performance, and the cost price of fabric is significantly Decline.Compared with cotton fabric, color is beautiful, and feel is smooth, and the comfort of dress is especially good, is a high-grade to take face Material is the direction of Sericulture Future Development.
The present invention improves the wearability of product, specific as follows:
(1) by the design of fabric small jacquard tissue, it is good to maintain the original permeability of silkworm fabric;
(2) multicomponent fibre combines, and has played the characteristics of fiber is each original, has realized the complementation in performance, fabric Silk-like handle is very strong;
(3) dobby can be produced with dobby machine, increase substantially the production efficiency of fabric, make fabric into This significantly declines, and improve market strives power unexpectedly.It is tired to walk out production beneficial to Sericulture for this multicomponent fibre design combination Border, and will be as the developing direction of Sericulture from now on.
Specific embodiment
The technical solution in the embodiment of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field Personnel can be better understood from advantages and features of the invention, so as to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on this hair Embodiment in bright, those of ordinary skill in the art are obtained every other on the premise of creative work is not made Embodiment belongs to the scope of protection of the invention.
Embodiment
1. the design of product
Cotton, Modal/silkworm silk intertexture, are the summer clothes fabrics of a top grade, and fabric maintains Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics Original excellent performance, but overcome the shortcomings that Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics easily turns yellow, wrinkle resistance is poor.It will basis during fabric design The characteristics of mulberry silk fiber is carefully soft is designed:(1) warp thread:The warp thread of imitative Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics is had to carefully.Warp thread is selected 7.3tex cotton yarns, the Compact-spun Yarn that yarn is formed by 80% medium staple cotton and 20% long wool cotton blend.Compact-spun Yarn hair Plumage is few, and feel is smooth, and item is done uniformly, after adding in long-staple cotton, has silk-like handle, while single thread force is higher, advantageously reduces warp thread Broken end, improve the quality of yarn;Warp thread does not select Modal, is because the specific resistance of Modal is higher, selects not generation Your yarn easily gathers flyings at menopause tablet, causes to be open unclear, cause warp end break as warp thread;(2) weft yarn:It selects 12.3tex Modals/silkworm silk blend compact spinning.Modal fibre is thin and soft, after repeatedly washing, the more washes the more soft It is soft, the more wash the more beautiful, the fabric that mulberry silk/Modal mixed yarn weaves can effectively avoid Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics from easily turning to be yellow, always The defects of change, and maintain the original excellent performance of Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics.
(3) blending ratio.The mixed yarn of mulberry silk and Modal fibre:Use 1.1dtex Modal fibres and fineness for 1.3dtex silkworm silk blends, good flexibility and excellent hygroscopicity that Modal fibre has in itself and good The characteristics of gloss, excellent stainability and bright color after being dyed, there are the gloss and feel as silk, be a kind of natural silk Smooth surface material, some similar natures with mulberry silk can achieve the effect that consistent with silk with silkworm silk blend.With silkworm The increase of silk ratio, the quality of yarn can progressively decline, and the dosage of mulberry silk, which does not exceed 40%, to be advisable.In addition Modal is fine The ratio of dimension is higher, and the wrinkle resistance of fabric is better, but the gas permeability of fabric can decline.When this fabric produces, Modal/mulberry The blending ratio of silk is 70/30.
(4) institutional framework of reasonable design fabric keeps the original gas permeability of Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics.Fabric tissue is selected Small jacquard tissue.Increasing with the ratio of modal yarn, the permeability of fabric can be deteriorated, therefore during design textile tissue, with Based on small jacquard tissue, there is gap between yarn, to enhance the gas permeability of fabric, it is original to maintain Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics as far as possible Permeability.Dobby machine can be used to produce for small jacquard tissue simultaneously, so as to which production efficiency be greatly improved, reduce life Cost is produced, improve market strives power unexpectedly.(5) selvedge of fabric is 120 yarns.Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics, since warp thread is thinner, It needs using more Side End Number, warp thread radical is few, during fabric post-treatment, easily generates side fault of slitting.
Fabric specification:Fabric breadth is 157.4cm, fabric through it is close be 537.5/10cm, fabric filling density for 583/ 10cm, porter 128, reed width 166cm, ground tissue penetrate number as 2, and Selvage Stitch penetrates number as 2, one meter through a length of 1.12, it is comprehensive Number of pages is 16.Total quantity of warps 8360, wherein 120, side yarn.
Color yarn arrangement:Warp thread is 7.3tex black combed yarns, and weft yarn is 12.3tex Modals/silkworm mixed yarn.Weft yarn There are three types of color, A is 12.3tex fuchsins, and B is dark red for 12.3tex, and C is bright red for 12.3tex, and barry dyeing is arranged as 1A1B1A1C, 4 One Xun Huan of root weft yarn.
Fabric tissue small jacquard, comprehensive using page 16, a flower weft yarn period is 360 latitudes, and pegging plan compares for plain weave Greatly, omit herein.
2. the main points of production:
2.1 winder
Select HS-101CS type semi-automatic bobbin winders.Warp thread is 7.3tex combed yarns, and yarn count is thinner, and single thread force is low;Latitude Yarn is 12.3tex Modals/mulberry silk mixed yarn, and for yarn formation structure than more loose, young pilose antler sense is strong, and single thread force is not also high, and Modal fibre specific resistance is higher, holds in process easy to produce static electricity;Winder speed is high simultaneously, it is also possible to make Modal Fiber fibrillation causes the fiber in yarn to generate sliding, the item of yarn is caused to do deterioration.Therefore winder should with " low velocity, Small tension receiving coil " technique be basic principle, low velocity small tension receiving coil technique, can minimizing electrostatic generation, so as to reduce secondary filoplume.Network Cylinder speed is 500m/min.
This fabric is used as high-grade fabric, to ensure the quality of yarn, after Yarn break, is twisted with the fingers using hand held air Tie device connector.
2.2 whole slurry combined production process:
2.2.1 warping
The fabric price is higher, and order volume is small, to be cost-effective, the sizing warper production of selection HFJ800 types, and bobbin The capacity of frame is 800.
Total quantity of warps is 8360, and full width is divided into 11 strands, is 760 per twisted warp radical.Due to the speed of sizing warper Degree only has 40m/min-45m/min, and the go forward frictional force of back segment warp thread of bobbin cradle differs greatly, and additional tension, which needs to be segmented, matches somebody with somebody It puts, bobbin cradle is divided into three sections, and leading portion additional tension washer weight is 9g, and stage casing additional tension washer weight is 8g, and back segment adds Tension washer weight is 7g, and to ensure that piece yarn tension is uniform, when production needs collective's creeling.
2.2.2 sizing
Warp count is big, and single thread force is low, when setting slashing technique, with " low velocity, small tension receiving coil, be impregnated with, ask coating " again For basic principle.
Formula of size is:Converted starch 70%+ solid propenoic acids 30%.Warp thread is 7.3tex combed yarns, according to phase patibhaga-nimitta Molten principle considered during sizing formula, it is necessary to select the converted starch of low viscosity as main slurry, due to through close higher, yarn Single thread force is low, for reduce sizing when warp thread between adhesion, add solid propenoic acid class slurry in formula.Solid propylene Acids slurry, leasing performance is good, is easy to immerse yarn interior, favourable to enhancing, while warp end break when can reduce leasing, Keep the complete of serous coat.
Low temperature starching:Slurry groove temperature is controlled between 35 DEG C -45 DEG C.The temperature of slurries is directly controlled by mixing cirtern, slurries It is no longer heat up after conveying into stock tank.
Drying chamber temperature:Warp thread is 7.3tex yarns, and yarn is thinner, and the temperature of drying chamber is unsuitable high.Because drying chamber temperature is high, Warp thread list is low by force, and after Yarn break, when handling warp end break, drying chamber temperature is high, easily causes the excessive drying of high grade cotton yarn, Cause warp thread brittle failure head.Wet area's drying chamber temperature be 120 DEG C, due to wet area, the moisture content of yarn is higher, yarn be not easy by Transition drying, thus temperature can be higher;Dry area's drying chamber temperature is 100 DEG C, and dry area's temperature is low, can effectively prevent sizing transition Drying, temperature also should not be low again, because temperature is low, drying rate is slow, influences production efficiency, it is also possible to and cause regain excessive, Cause yarn adhesion.
Sizing speed:40m/min-45m/min.Yarn count is thin, and single thread force is low, and sizing speed should not be fast, because sizing is fast Degree is fast, first, during yarn leasing, leasing resistance is big, easily causes leasing lappers;Second is that during yarn leasing, easily tear is starched Film causes sizing not wear-resisting, third, sizing speed is fast, it is necessary to which the higher temperature of drying chamber, when handling yarn warp end break, can cause The transition drying of yarn, causes brittle failure head, and more than various reasons all determine that sizing speed is advisable with middle low velocity.
Mud-jacking technology:Starching mechanism is double-clip-double-nip starching mechanism, and since yarn count is thin, when starching should pay attention to sizing Coating, will also take into account and be impregnated with, therefore mud-jacking technology, using mud-jacking technology light after preceding weight, the breadth control for often twisting starching exists 55cm, the pressure of preceding squeezing roller is 0.44Mpa, and probably in 242kg, the pressure control of post jacking roller exists actual starching pressure 0.28Mpa, actual pressure are about 154kg.Preceding squeezing roller pressure is big, and slurries are squeezed into yarn interior, and formation is impregnated with, after Squeezing roller pressure is small, and slurries stay in yam surface, forms coating.
The rate of sizing:Warp thread is thinner, needs during starching to be preferably impregnated with and be coated, rate of sizing system is between 14%-15%.
Regain:Warp thread is thinner, and during sizing, sized warp moisture regain wants control bigger than normal, regain control 7%-7.5% it Between.Sized warp moisture regain is small, when processing sizing breaks end, be easy to cause the transition drying of warp thread, causes brittle failure head.Sized warp moisture regain Also should not be big again, sized warp moisture regain is big, the adhesion being likely to result between yarn, and when weaving easily causes shed open unintelligible.
2.3 drawing-in
It comprehensive is woven using page 16.Body:3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,7,8,9,12,15, 16,3,4,9,10,11,12,3,4,5,6,10,7,13,9,5,6,8,11,13,14,15,16,3,5,7,9,11,13,15,4, 6,8,10,5,14,16,3,4,7,8,11,12,15,16,5,6,9,10,13,14,3,11,7,9,10,6,12,16,3,11, 8,9,13,14,15,5,10,4,11,12,13,10,7,8,12,13,14,4,5,6,10,11,12,16,3,4,8,9,10, 14,15,16,3,4,5,9,10,11,15,12,5,10,8,9,3,7,11,6,15,12,9,14.Selvedge wear 1-2 pages it is comprehensive.One Flower drawing-in period is 132.
2.4 weaving
It is woven using GA718 type air-jet looms, loom rotating speed is 520r/min
2.4.1 temple mark:The filling density of fabric is larger, and weft yarn is not easy urgent, fell generation travelling, on the both sides of fabric Easily generate temple mark.To reduce the generation of temple mark, first, to use early opening, opening time is determined as 300 °.During opening Between it is early, during beating, warp thread is big to the angle of contact of weft yarn, and weft yarn is easily urgent;Second is that rear depth of beam is properly increased, after + 1 scale of beam use, rear deck-molding, levels warp tension difference is big, and weft yarn is easily urgent;Third, increase the number of rings of temple, Using single-row 48 ring temple.Temple number of rings is more, strong to the control ability of cloth cover, reduces the travelling of cloth cover, reduces temple mark Generation.
2.4.2 whiff pressure:Modal/mulberry silk scribbled, structure is more loose, and young pilose antler sense is strong, and single thread force is inclined It is low, when air-jet loom weaves, whiff pressure control less than normal.To reduce whiff pressure, we reduce the gauge of pilot jet, Auxiliary spray Separation control is in below 6cm, and in 4cm or so, the pressure of so auxiliary spray only needs the spacing of last two groups of pilot jets 0.25Mpa-0.28Mpa, the pressure of main jet also only needs 0.22 Mpa-0.25Mpa, basic when weaving since whiff pressure is small On will not be blown because of weft yarn, and long latitude is caused to stop platform.
2.4.3 gentle breeze:Weft yarn is thinner, and structure is more loose, and to reduce the few untwisting of latitude, gentle breeze is advisable with small, and gentle breeze is only It can guarantee that weft yarn will not exit main burner.Gentle breeze is controlled between 0.07Mpa-0.08Mpa.
2.4.4 shed length:Through close big, shed open is not easy clearly, to shorten rear portion shed length, when can increase shed open full gate Warp tension, it is clearly favourable to shed open.
2.4.5 warp tension:Fabric through close bigger, shed open is not easy clearly, warp tension control bigger than normal, control In 175kg,
2.4.6 dispatching from the factory as a roll after machine under fabric, fabric not fold, in order to avoid generate folding line.
3. the trimmed size of fabric
Fabric width is 147.5cm, finished product through it is close be 567/10cm, finished product filling density is 591/10cm, is through crimp 10.7%, latitude crimp is 5.2%, and it is 9.4% to arrange width shrinkage, arranges long shrinkage as 1.4%.
Cotton, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric in the present invention is a kind of high true silk like fabric kind fabric, is selected 7.3tex combed yarns are as warp thread, using 12.3tex Modals/mulberry silk mixed yarn as weft yarn, the friendship of three kinds of fiber combinations Fabric makes up silkworm fiber in performance the defects of, maintains original noble, graceful, the elegant and moisture absorption of Light of Mulberry Silk Fabrics Property it is good, wear it is nice and cool wait excellent performances, and overcome that mulberry silk fiber is acidproof, alkali resistance is poor, protein fibre is easy after solarization The defects of aging, jaundice, poor wrinkle resistance, the complementation in performance is realized, the cost price of fabric significantly declines.With cotton Fabric compares, and color is beautiful, and feel is smooth, and the comfort of dress is especially good, is the wearing fabric of a top grade, is silkworm The direction of industry Future Development.
The present invention improves the wearability of product, specific as follows:
(1) by the design of fabric small jacquard tissue, it is good to maintain the original permeability of silkworm fabric;
(2) multicomponent fibre combines, and has played the characteristics of fiber is each original, has realized the complementation in performance, fabric Silk-like handle is very strong;
(3) dobby can be produced with dobby machine, increase substantially the production efficiency of fabric, make fabric into This significantly declines, and improve market strives power unexpectedly.It is tired to walk out production beneficial to Sericulture for this multicomponent fibre design combination Border, and will be as the developing direction of Sericulture from now on.

Claims (4)

1. a kind of production technology of cotton, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric, it is characterised in that:Include the following steps:
(1), product main points:Warp thread selects 7.3tex cotton yarns, and yarn is formed by 80% medium staple cotton and 20% long wool cotton blend Compact-spun Yarn;Weft yarn uses 1.1dtex Modal fibres with fineness for 1.3dtex silkworm silk blends, Modal/mulberry silk Blending ratio be 70/30;
(2), winder:HS-101CS type semi-automatic bobbin winders are selected, warp thread is 7.3tex cotton yarns;Weft yarn for 12.3tex Modals/ Mulberry silk mixed yarn;Winder is using " low velocity, small tension receiving coil " technique as basic principle, low velocity small tension receiving coil technique, can minimizing electrostatic Generation, so as to reduce secondary filoplume, winder speed is 500m/min;This fabric is used as high-grade fabric, to ensure yarn Quality, after Yarn break, use hand held air splicer connector;
(3), warping:The production of HFJ800 types sizing warper is selected, the capacity of bobbin cradle is 800;Total quantity of warps is 8360, entirely Width is divided into 11 strands, is 760 per twisted warp radical, and additional tension needs segmented configuration, and bobbin cradle is divided into three sections, and leading portion, which adds, to be opened Power washer weight is 9g, and stage casing additional tension washer weight is 8g, and back segment additional tension washer weight is 7g, to ensure piece yarn Power is uniform, and when production needs collective's creeling;
(4), sizing:
Warp count is big, and single thread force is low, when setting slashing technique, with " low velocity, small tension receiving coil, be impregnated with, ask coating " again for base This principle.
Formula of size is:Converted starch 70%+ solid propenoic acids 30%;Warp thread is 7.3tex combed yarns, is mixed according to similar Principle considered during sizing formula, it is necessary to select the converted starch of low viscosity as main slurry, due to through close higher, single yarn It is strongly low, for reduce sizing when warp thread between adhesion, add solid propenoic acid class slurry in formula;Solid propenoic acid plasmoid Material, leasing performance is good, is easy to immerse yarn interior, favourable to enhancing, while warp end break when can reduce leasing, keeps serous coat It is complete;
Low temperature starching:Slurry groove temperature is controlled between 35 DEG C -45 DEG C, and the temperature of slurries is directly controlled by mixing cirtern, slurries conveying It is no longer heat up after into stock tank;
Drying chamber temperature:Warp thread is 7.3tex yarns, and wet area's drying chamber temperature is 120 DEG C, and due to wet area, the moisture content of yarn is higher, Yarn is not easy by transition drying, thus temperature can be higher;Dry area's drying chamber temperature is 100 DEG C, and dry area's temperature is low, can effectively prevent Only sizing transition drying, temperature also should not be low again, because temperature is low, drying rate is slow, influences production efficiency, it is also possible to cause back Damp rate is excessive, causes yarn adhesion;
Sizing speed:40m/min-45m/min, yarn count is thin, and single thread force is low, and sizing speed should not be fast, because sizing speed is fast, First, during yarn leasing, leasing resistance is big, easily causes leasing lappers;Second is that during yarn leasing, serous coat is easily torn, is caused Sizing is not wear-resisting, third, sizing speed is fast, it is necessary to which the higher temperature of drying chamber, when handling yarn warp end break, can cause the mistake of yarn Drying is crossed, causes brittle failure head, more than various reasons all determine that sizing speed is advisable with middle low velocity;
Mud-jacking technology:Starching mechanism is double-clip-double-nip starching mechanism, and since yarn count is thin, when starching should pay attention to the coating of sizing, Also to take into account and be impregnated with, therefore mud-jacking technology, using mud-jacking technology light after preceding weight, the breadth for often twisting starching is controlled in 55cm, preceding pressure The pressure of roller is starched as 0.44Mpa, actual starching pressure is probably in 242kg, and the pressure control of post jacking roller is in 0.28Mpa, reality Pressure is about 154kg.Preceding squeezing roller pressure is big, and slurries are squeezed into yarn interior, and formation is impregnated with, and post jacking roller pressure is small, Slurries stay in yam surface, form coating;
The rate of sizing:Warp thread is thinner, needs during starching to be preferably impregnated with and be coated, rate of sizing system is between 14%-15%;
Regain:Warp thread is thinner, and during sizing, sized warp moisture regain wants control bigger than normal, and regain is controlled between 7%-7.5%.Slurry Yarn regain is small, when processing sizing breaks end, be easy to cause the transition drying of warp thread, causes brittle failure head.Sized warp moisture regain is also unsuitable Big again, sized warp moisture regain is big, the adhesion being likely to result between yarn, and when weaving easily causes shed open unintelligible;
(5), drawing-in:It comprehensive is woven using page 16;Body:3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,7,8,9,12, 15,16,3,4,9,10,11,12,3,4,5,6,10,7,13,9,5,6,8,11,13,14,15,16,3,5,7,9,11,13,15, 4,6,8,10,5,14,16,3,4,7,8,11,12,15,16,5,6,9,10,13,14,3,11,7,9,10,6,12,16,3,11, 8,9,13,14,15,5,10,4,11,12,13,10,7,8,12,13,14,4,5,6,10,11,12,16,3,4,8,9,10,14, 15,16,3,4,5,9,10,11,15,12,5,10,8,9,3,7,11,6,15,12,9,14;Selvedge wears 1-2 pages of comprehensive, a flower drawing-in Period is 132;
(6), weave:It is woven using GA718 type air-jet looms, loom rotating speed is 520r/min;
Temple mark:The filling density of fabric is larger, weft yarn be not easy it is urgent, fell generate travelling, easily generate side on the both sides of fabric Support defect;To reduce the generation of temple mark, first, to use early opening, opening time is determined as 300 °;Opening time is early, beating When, warp thread is big to the angle of contact of weft yarn, and weft yarn is easily urgent;Second is that rear depth of beam is properly increased ,+1 quarter of back rest use Degree, rear deck-molding, levels warp tension difference is big, and weft yarn is easily urgent;Third, increase the number of rings of temple, using single-row 48 ring Temple;Temple number of rings is more, strong to the control ability of cloth cover, reduces the travelling of cloth cover, reduces the generation of temple mark;
Whiff pressure:Modal/mulberry silk scribbled, structure is more loose, and young pilose antler sense is strong, and single thread force is relatively low, air-jet loom When weaving, whiff pressure control less than normal;To reduce whiff pressure, we reduce the gauge of pilot jet, auxiliary spray Separation control In below 6cm, for the spacing of last two groups of pilot jets in 4cm or so, the pressure of so auxiliary spray only needs 0.25Mpa- 0.28Mpa, the pressure of main jet also only need 0.22Mpa-0.25Mpa, substantially will not be because of when weaving since whiff pressure is small Weft yarn is blown, and long latitude is caused to stop platform;
Gentle breeze:Weft yarn is thinner, and structure is more loose, and to reduce the few untwisting of latitude, gentle breeze is advisable with small, as long as gentle breeze can guarantee latitude Yarn will not exit main burner.Gentle breeze is controlled between 0.07Mpa-0.08Mpa;
Shed length:Through close big, shed open is not easy clearly, to shorten rear portion shed length, can increase warp tension during shed open full gate, It is clearly favourable to shed open;
Warp tension:Fabric through close bigger, shed open is not easy clearly, and warp tension control bigger than normal is controlled in 175kg;
Under fabric after machine, dispatching from the factory as a roll, fabric not fold, in order to avoid generate folding line.
2. the production technology of cotton according to claim 1, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric, it is characterised in that: Fabric specification:Fabric breadth is 157.4cm, fabric through it is close be 537.5/10cm, fabric filling density is 583/10cm, and porter is 128, reed width 166cm, ground tissue penetrate number as 2, and Selvage Stitch penetrates number as 2, one meter through a length of 1.12, comprehensive number of pages is 16;Always Through radical 8360, wherein 120, side yarn.
3. the production technology of cotton according to claim 1, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric, it is characterised in that: Color yarn arrangement:Warp thread is 7.3tex black cotton yarns, and weft yarn is 12.3tex Modals/silkworm mixed yarn;There are three types of color, A for weft yarn For 12.3tex fuchsins, B is dark red for 12.3tex, and C is bright red for 12.3tex, and barry dyeing is arranged as 1A1B1A1C, and 4 weft yarns one follow Ring;Fabric tissue small jacquard, comprehensive using page 16, a flower weft yarn period is 360 latitudes for plain weave;The selvedge of fabric is 120 Yarn.
4. the production technology of cotton according to claim 1, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric, it is characterised in that: The Fabric width of fabric is 147.5cm, finished product through it is close be 567/10cm, finished product filling density is 591/10cm, is through crimp 10.7%, latitude crimp is 5.2%, and it is 9.4% to arrange width shrinkage, arranges long shrinkage as 1.4%.
CN201710933401.6A 2017-10-10 2017-10-10 A kind of production technology of cotton, Modal/mulberry silk multicomponent jacquard fabric Pending CN108085827A (en)

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CN108486739A (en) * 2018-06-05 2018-09-04 江苏工程职业技术学院 A kind of Modal/polyester cotton color knits product design and its production technology of half elasticity fabric
CN108914295A (en) * 2018-08-03 2018-11-30 上海纺织(集团)大丰纺织有限公司 A kind of Modal fibre, combed cotton, tussah silk scribbled and its spinning process
CN110373789A (en) * 2019-07-10 2019-10-25 杭州丝绸之路文化艺术有限公司 A kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed silk like fabric fabric

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108486739A (en) * 2018-06-05 2018-09-04 江苏工程职业技术学院 A kind of Modal/polyester cotton color knits product design and its production technology of half elasticity fabric
CN108914295A (en) * 2018-08-03 2018-11-30 上海纺织(集团)大丰纺织有限公司 A kind of Modal fibre, combed cotton, tussah silk scribbled and its spinning process
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Application publication date: 20180529