CN103696076A - Processing technology of wool-covering cotton jean - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a processing technology of wool-covering cotton jean. Warp yarns of the wool-covering cotton jean adopt 20NM/2 pure wool yarns, weft yarns adopts 16Ne/1 pure cotton yarns, and the processing technology is characterized in the spinning of the 20Nm/2 pure wool yarns and the weaving and post-treatment of the wool-covering cotton jean. The processing technology has the beneficial effects that: the conventional process is broken through, the raw materials of the jean are changed, only the characteristics of the cotton fiber are utilized, the wool-covering cotton technology and the characteristics of wool fabric such as good elasticity, strong humidity absorption property, good warming property, difficulty in contamination and soft brightness are utilized, so that the elasticity of the jean fabric can be improved, the wool-covering cotton jean is smooth to touch, and the brightness is soft. By introducing the wool in the jean fabric market, the jean can be made into top-grade fabric.

Description

The processing technology of the cotton denim of a kind of pileic tomentum

(1) technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of manufacture method of fabric of field of textiles, particularly relate to the processing technology of the cotton denim of a kind of pileic tomentum.

(2) background technology

Denim, also claims tannin fabrics, is that a kind of comparatively thick thick look is knitted through face jean.Warp thread color is darker, is generally indigo, and weft yarn color is more shallow, is generally light gray.Grey cloth is after anti-shrinking, and washing shrinkage is less than general fabrics, and quality is tight, abundant, bright in colour, weavy grain is clear.Be applicable to men and women's formula jeans, the upper dress of cowboy, cowboy vest, cowboy's skirt etc.

Denim is the pith of garment material, and the cotton denim of thick and heavy tissue has been used as the fabric of trousers and jacket.But at society, consumer has higher requirement to the softness of fabric, comfortable and tractable performance, so the producer of denim must affect these requirements by technological means.

(3) summary of the invention

The object of the invention is in order to overcome the weak point of existing denim and production technology thereof, and the processing technology of the cotton denim of a kind of pileic tomentum is provided.

Technical scheme of the present invention is to realize like this.

The processing technology of the cotton denim of pileic tomentum of this programme, the warp thread of the cotton denim of this pileic tomentum adopts 20Nm/2 pure wool yarn, and weft yarn adopts 16Ne/1 Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, and the critical process of its technique is as follows:

(1), 20Nm/2 pure wool yarn process flow process

1. raw material is prepared: 56s Australia hair, and fineness 28.35 μ m, fineness is discrete 22.12%, Hauteur 94.3mm, oil content 0.6%;

2. fore-spinning:

Silver mixing: a unit type B412, combined roots 10, drafting multiple 10, lower machine weight 20 ± 1g, silver mixing gets damp again in advance by 24h;

Combing: unit type N.S.C-P31, combined roots 10, drafting multiple 10, lower machine weight 20 ± 1g;

Secondary silver mixing: unit type GN6-17, combined roots 10, drafting multiple 10, lower machine weight 20 ± 1g, volume read-out 100ml/min;

One grilling: unit type GN6-17, combined roots 8, drafting multiple 8.9, lower machine weight 18 ± 0.5g; Two road grilling: unit type GN6-26, combined roots 6, drafting multiple 7.7, lower machine weight 14 ± 0.5g;

Three road grilling: unit type GN6-211, combined roots 4, drafting multiple 6.6, lower machine weight 8.5 ± 0.2g;

Rove: unit type FM-8N, combined roots 1, drafting multiple 10.92, lower machine weight 0.78 ± 0.02g;

3. spinning process:

Yarn machine equipment model: domestic FB505A type ring throstle,

Real number: the 21Nm that spins of single thread,

Drafting multiple: 16.48,

The twist: 500T/m,

Sth. made by twisting is twisted with the fingers to: Z,

Single thread yarn steaming: 90 ℃, 60min, steams 1 time;

4. spinning process after:

Winder: the ESPRO.M automatic winder of Italian Savio company,

Doubling: the fmx doubling frame of Switzerland SSM company, number of share of stock is 2 strands,

Double twisting: the VTS-086 two-for-one twister of German SAVRER company,

Strand yarn steaming: 80 ℃, 25min, steams 1 time;

(2), weaving process

1. technological process:

Warp thread technological process: bobbin winder, warping machines, Sizing machines, reeding machine, air-jet loom, cloth inspecting machine, folding machine, middle chartered plane;

Weft yarn technological process: bobbin winder, warping machines, Sizing machines, reeding machine;

2. technological parameter:

Fabric tissue: twill left to right tissue once on three,

Fabric fibre content: wool 70%, cotton 30%,

Cloth weight: 340-450 gram/m,

Fabric width: 1.4m,

Warp thread: 62 pieces/inch,

Weft yarn: 42 pieces/inch.

(3), jean topical finish operation:

1. braying:

Equipment: N113A type rope-form washing dolly,

Technique: 40 ℃ of braying temperature, 30-60min, bath raio 1:5-1:6, pressure 500Kg; Rinse each 10-15min 5-6 time;

2. dehydration:

Equipment: Z751 type centrifugal dehydrator, rotating cage diameter 1000mm, rotating speed 900r/min.

Usefulness of the present invention is: this technique is broken the normal procedure, change the feature that denim raw material is only used cotton fiber, the feature that utilize pileic tomentum cotton technology and wool fabric good springiness, hygroscopicity is strong, warmth retention property good, be difficult for contamination, gloss is soft, increase the elasticity of jean facing material, make it feel sliding glutinous, gloss is soft.In jean facing material market, introducing the concept of wool, is the direction that denim moves towards high-grade fabric.

(4) specific embodiment

Below in conjunction with embodiment, the invention will be further described.

One, solution

1,20Nm/2 pure wool yarn adopts bar dyeing technique, to strengthen the COLOR FASTNESS of finished product yarn, uses REACTIVE DYES.

2, warp thread adopts heavy twist 20Nm/2 pure wool yarn, and weft yarn is used the Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production of the 16Ne/1 (1Ne=1.693Nm) approaching with warp thread thickness, weaves.Fully, in conjunction with the characteristic of hair, cotton two kinds of fibers, do not losing on the strong abundant basis of denim, the feel that strengthens fabric is soft.

3, because 20Nm/2 pure wool yarn as denim warp thread, the twist is large, thus winding procedure before single thread want yarn steaming.In addition due to pure wool yarn and Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production shrinkage inconsistent, 20Nm/2 pure wool yarn strand and 16Nm/1 finally will carry out Vacuum Heat sizing yarn steaming.

4, in weaving process, strictly control through weft count, in fabric destarch and rear arrangement process, use neutral reagent, in order to avoid two kinds of fibers of velvet apple are damaged.

Two, concrete technology flow process

1, adopt the combed cotton yarn of the 16Ne/1 buying.

2,20Nm/2 pure wool yarn process flow process

(1) raw material is prepared

(2) dyeing and finishing workshop slub dyeing flow process: pine tag ball, dyeing, spin-dry, after backwashing.

Capital equipment model: N461 type ball top dyeing machine; LB331 type hot roller back washer.

(3) 20Nm/2 pure wool yarn process flow process

1. fore-spinning:

2. spinning process:

Yarn machine equipment model: domestic FB505A type ring throstle;

Spin number: 21Nm(considers that single thread strand twist contraction is large to single thread in fact, so number increases 1Nm);

Drafting multiple: 16.48;

The twist: 500T/cm;

Sth. made by twisting is twisted with the fingers to: Z;

Single thread yarn steaming: 90 ℃, 60min, steams 1 time, (H032 type vacuum yarn steaming machine).

3. spinning process after:

Winder: the ESPRO.M automatic winder of Italian Savio company;

Doubling: the fmx doubling frame of Switzerland SSM company, number of share of stock is 2 strands;

Double twisting: the VTS-086 two-for-one twister of German SAVRER company;

Strand yarn steaming: 80 ℃, 25min, steams 1 time.

3, weaving process

(1), technological process:

1. warp thread technological process: bobbin winder, warping machines, Sizing machines, reeding machine, air-jet loom, cloth inspecting machine, folding machine, middle chartered plane.

2. weft yarn technological process: bobbin winder, warping machines, Sizing machines, reeding machine.

3. capital equipment model: CGGA114-300 type warping machines; GA308-300 type Sizing machines; G177-300 type reeding machine; YJA-609J type jacquard weave air-jet loom; GA801-300 type cloth inspecting machine; GA841-300 type folding machine; Chartered plane in A752 type.

(2), technological parameter:

Fabric tissue: twill left to right tissue once on three,

Fabric fibre content: wool 70%, cotton 30%,

Heavy (medium-sized): the 340-450 gram/square meter (10-13 ounce per square yard) of cloth,

Fabric width: 1.4m,

Warp thread: 62 pieces/inch,

Weft yarn: 42 pieces/inch.

4, jean topical finish operation:

, braying: because spinning time adds and crude oil, and denim is contaminated while knitting base, must braying, wash rear enhancing fabric strength, body bone is well-pressed.

Equipment: N113A type rope-form washing dolly,

Technique: braying temperature should be at 40 ℃, 30-60min, bath raio 1:5-1:6, pressure 500Kg.Flushing is with low discharge, and repeatedly number is advisable, and washes 5-6 time, each 10-15min, and the water yield slowly reduces.

(2), dehydration: equipment: Z751 type centrifugal dehydrator, rotating cage diameter 1000mm, rotating speed 900r/min.

Three, technological difficulties

Because pure wool yarn is different from the shrinkage of purified cotton yarns, if do not carry out heat treatment after spinning, easily on cloth cover, form bar shadow or clouding, so yarn steaming technological parameter is particularly crucial.On the other hand, cotton is cellulose fibre, and hair is protein fibre, and the former is alkaline-resisting not acidproof, and the latter is acidproof not alkaline-resisting, and this just requires no matter in any operation, to use neutral auxiliary agent as far as possible, and two kinds of fibers of different nature are not damaged.

Four, conclusion

Super fans as jeans, understanding to the brand of jeans, style, model, version type is can not lack certainly, good jeans and good workmanship are inseparable, but foundation or jean, good fabric more passes through fit, more passed through charm, that wears just more has that cowboy's a sensation more for a long time.And if fabric is very poor, washes several times more and just wear and do not come from.Wool type denim is broken the normal procedure, and utilizes garden resource consolidation advantage, introduces the concept of hair, increases the elasticity of jean facing material, makes it feel sliding glutinous, and gloss is soft, catches up with youthful trend, pre-in respect of wide market prospects.

Claims (1)

1. a processing technology for the cotton denim of pileic tomentum, is characterized in that: the warp thread of the cotton denim of this pileic tomentum adopts 20Nm/2 pure wool yarn, weft yarn employing 16Ne/1 Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, and the critical process of its technique is as follows:

(1), 20Nm/2 pure wool yarn process flow process

1. raw material is prepared: 56s Australia hair, and fineness 28.35 μ m, fineness is discrete 22.12%, Hauteur 94.3mm, oil content 0.6%;

2. fore-spinning:

Silver mixing: a unit type B412, combined roots 10, drafting multiple 10, lower machine weight 20 ± 1g, silver mixing gets damp again in advance by 24h;

Combing: unit type N.S.C-P31, combined roots 10, drafting multiple 10, lower machine weight 20 ± 1g;

Secondary silver mixing: unit type GN6-17, combined roots 10, drafting multiple 10, lower machine weight 20 ± 1g, volume read-out 100ml/min;

One grilling: unit type GN6-17, combined roots 8, drafting multiple 8.9, lower machine weight 18 ± 0.5g; Two road grilling: unit type GN6-26, combined roots 6, drafting multiple 7.7, lower machine weight 14 ± 0.5g;

Three road grilling: unit type GN6-211, combined roots 4, drafting multiple 6.6, lower machine weight 8.5 ± 0.2g;

Rove: unit type FM-8N, combined roots 1, drafting multiple 10.92, lower machine weight 0.78 ± 0.02g;

3. spinning process:

Yarn machine equipment model: domestic FB505A type ring throstle,

Real number: the 21Nm that spins of single thread,

Drafting multiple: 16.48,

The twist: 500T/m,

Sth. made by twisting is twisted with the fingers to: Z,

Single thread yarn steaming: 90 ℃, 60min, steams 1 time;

4. spinning process after:

Winder: the ESPRO.M automatic winder of Italian Savio company,

Doubling: the fmx doubling frame of Switzerland SSM company, number of share of stock is 2 strands,

Double twisting: the VTS-086 two-for-one twister of German SAVRER company,

Strand yarn steaming: 80 ℃, 25min, steams 1 time;

(2), weaving process

1. technological process:

Warp thread technological process: bobbin winder, warping machines, Sizing machines, reeding machine, air-jet loom, cloth inspecting machine, folding machine, middle chartered plane;

Weft yarn technological process: bobbin winder, warping machines, Sizing machines, reeding machine;

2. technological parameter:

Fabric tissue: twill left to right tissue once on three,

Fabric fibre content: wool 70%, cotton 30%,

Cloth weight: 340-450 gram/m,

Fabric width: 1.4m,

Warp thread: 62 pieces/inch,

Weft yarn: 42 pieces/inch.

(3), jean topical finish operation:

1. braying:

Equipment: N113A type rope-form washing dolly,

Technique: 40 ℃ of braying temperature, 30-60min, bath raio 1:5-1:6, pressure 500Kg; Rinse each 10-15min 5-6 time;

2. dehydration:

Equipment: Z751 type centrifugal dehydrator, rotating cage diameter 1000mm, rotating speed 900r/min.