CN101275327B - Multicomponent fiber blended fabric and preparation thereof - Google Patents

Multicomponent fiber blended fabric and preparation thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101275327B
CN101275327B CN2008100152460A CN200810015246A CN101275327B CN 101275327 B CN101275327 B CN 101275327B CN 2008100152460 A CN2008100152460 A CN 2008100152460A CN 200810015246 A CN200810015246 A CN 200810015246A CN 101275327 B CN101275327 B CN 101275327B
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dyeing
spinning
minutes
fibre
fiber
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CN101275327A (en
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杨军
武光信
刘文和
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SHANDONG WOYUAN NEWFASHIONED FABRIC CO Ltd
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SHANDONG WOYUAN NEWFASHIONED FABRIC CO Ltd
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Abstract

A multi-component fiber blended facing material is disclosed, whose weight proportion of spinning raw material is (the chaine is same with the weft yarn) 11-20% of tencel, 8-12% of ramee, 8-12% of bamboo fibre, 60-65% of terylene short fiber and 0.5-0.7% of conductive fibre. The invention implementing reasonable collocation and assembly of tencel, terylene, bamboo fibre, ramee and conductive fibre, which not only useds the large brute force and sticking dynam characteristic of terylene, but also full utilizes the superior characteristic and favorable wear behavior of tencel, bamboo fibre and ramee, thereby implementing ascendency complementary and inferior position elimination of various fibres, and meanwhile the conductive fibre has better and longer electrostatic resistance effect in the fibre blended yarns. The facing material has superior characteristics of moisture absorption, ventilating, electrostatic resistance, sticking, sliding, embonpoint hand feeling, good drapability, flokkit and pilling resistance, good model keeping performance, antimicrobial, etc. The invention has reasonable technique, resolve difficult problem of spinning and dyeing, and establish hardness foundation for the amenity and high-grade of the chemical fabrics facing material.

Description

Multicomponent fiber blended fabric and preparation method
Technical field
The present invention relates to weaving, dyeing and finishing field, particularly is main material with the terylene, the multicomponent garment material and the technology of preparing that are woven into sky silk, bamboo fibre, flax fibre and conductive fiber blending.
Background technology
At present, fibre in differentiation and the lining that cotton, hair, silk, flax fibre make up respectively based on terylene, viscose because of having gathered the different advantages of multiple fiber, more and more are subjected to clothes manufacturer and consumer's favor, lead popular lining " trend " gradually.But such conventional combination lining more or less exists the defective of each side.
Because generally, such conventional lining is that two to three kinds of fibers are made up, as " washing/day silk ", " washing/bamboo fibre " and " washing/fiber crops " combination lining etc.The lining defect map is present: " wash/day silk " and " washing/the bamboo fibre " though the class lining has improved product feel and taking, guarantee the uniform series products stiffening reach aspect antistatic relatively poor relatively; " wash/fiber crops " though the class lining in aspect function admirables such as health care, lining stiffness, plastic types, in feel, sense comfortable and easy to wear with overcome aspect the prodding and itching feeling poor.In a word, though such conventional multicomponent lining has better performance,, be difficult to satisfy the consumer and require lining to possess the demand of multiple premium properties because the kinds of fibers of using is few.
The multicomponent fibre lining that contains fiber more than four kinds and four kinds in the market is very rare.Though because its than two, good many of the performance of the lining of three kind of fiber combinations, but because kinds of fibers is many, each fiber weaving characteristic, colouring condition all differ bigger, so have lining production, a difficult problem such as the difficulty of weaving, paint, level-dyeing property difference, have limited its suitability for industrialized production.
How to solve this contradiction, become the whole textile industry product development personnel's of puzzlement a difficult problem.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention provides a kind of multicomponent fiber blended fabric and preparation method, and multi-fibre is had complementary advantages, and solves the difficult problem of spinning, dyeing, realizes the superior and comfortableness of chemical fiber plus material.
Multicomponent fiber blended fabric of the present invention is characterized in that it being to be made by following raw material blending, and the weight proportion of spinning material is:
Warp thread, weft yarn are identical:
It silk 11-20%
Ramie 8-12%
Bamboo fibre 8-12%
Terylene short fiber 60-65%
Conductive fiber 0.5-0.7%.
Described conductive fiber is the permanence antistatic fiber, and specification 3D * 38-51mm can acidproof, alkaline-resisting, high temperature resistant, wash resistant.
The proportioning raw materials according to the present invention, the preparation technology and the technical parameter of its garment material are as follows:
The total technological process sketch:
Preceding preparation → weave → the dye pre-treatment → High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing → enzyme processing → auxiliary agent typing → jar steaming → perching → rolling of spinning → weave.
(1) spinning process:
(1) spinning specification
A. resultant yarn: 9.8tex-13.1tex single thread (or 45 s/ 1--60 s/ 1),
The twist: 1050T/m twists with the fingers and twists with the fingers to Z.
B. proportioning:
Terylene: day silk: bamboo fibre: ramie: conductive fiber=60-65%: 11-20%: 8-12%: 8-12%: 0.5-0.7%;
(2) mixing procedure and parameter:
Anionic antistatic agents and water proportioning: 1: 8-10,
Mix auxiliary agent after preparing and spray and be added in the spinning material that above-mentioned b prepares in proportion, addition is the 1-2% of spinning material weight.
(3) carding process
The heavy 3.2-3.3g/m of bar
16~20 rev/mins of sliver exporting speeds
Combing 1 road
(4) spinning process
The heavy surely 2.7-2.8g/10m of spinning
Ingot speed: 10000-12000rpm (rev/min)
Drafting multiple 20-25 doubly
Grain traveller G6 #-G16 #
(5) winding process:
Winder speed 600-1200m/min
Yarn quality: 1. higher strength, well bar is done and less fault
2. numb fibre and conductive fiber are even in the yarn surface distributed, do not have long fibre and expose.
(2), weave preceding preparatory technology:
1. doubling, double twisting:
Twist with the fingers doubling frame with two single thread and close with having, with two-for-one twister twisting, twist 1200-1300T/m, S twists with the fingers, ingot speed 12000rpm.
2. yarn steaming: 90 ℃ of yarn steaming temperature, 120 minutes time.
Behind the yarn steaming as warp thread and weft yarn.
3. section warping technology
Total quantity of warps 6600-6800 root, hank number 15-20 strand,
Warping tension force 20dN
Beaming tension force 0.2MPa
(3) weaving process
Grey cloth specification: fabric width 168-170cm, grammes per square metre 160-180g/m 2,
Adopt Rapier looms or air-jet loom weaving (more than 8 brown frames, 2 looks select the above configuration of latitude automatically).
315 ° of opening times
(4), dyeing and finishing technology
Adopt High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine rope form piece dyeing dyeing
A. dyeing:
Every long 600-900m of grey cloth (deciding according to the dyeing machine amount of capacity) that dyeing machine adds adopts two baths, two-step process dyeing, 130 ℃ of the highest dyeing temperatures; Finished product fabric width 1.49-1.51m after the dyeing, finished product grammes per square metre 175-185g/m 2
B. technological process:
Grey cloth → boil and float → mercerising → acid treatment → washing → bath (DISPERSE DYES) dyeing → two bath (REACTIVE DYES) dyeing → dehydration → untwisting open-width → auxiliary agent typing → jar steaming → check → packings.
C: dyeing;
1, boiling and bleaching process:
Use NaoH 4g/L, use H 2O 26g/L adds scouring agent, bleeding agent, hydrogen peroxide bleaching stabilizer, soft dose etc. (or with destarch, kiering five in one enzyme), deoils, kiering and rinsing.
95 ℃ * 60 minutes.
2, mercerization
The mercerization of 170g/L concentration of lye;
3, acid treatment process
Acetic acid 0.8g/L, enzyme-added (as: ferment enzyme, polishing enzyme) 1-2g/L, refining agent 1g/L handled in 55 ℃ * 50 minutes.
(4) dyeing
With dispersion, REACTIVE DYES, two baths, two-step process dyeing:
One bathes, and disperse dyeing: room temperature adds the dispersion dyestuff, and computer 1 ℃/min of control or 1.5 ℃/min are warming up to 130 ℃, be incubated 40 minutes, 1 ℃/min or 1.5 ℃/min are cooled to 40 ℃ and soap, and are warming up to 80 ℃ at full speed again, be incubated 20 minutes, wash after the cooling at full speed.
Two bathe, and reactive dyeing: room temperature adds REACTIVE DYES, and computer 1 ℃/min of control or 1.5 ℃/min are warming up to 60 ℃, be incubated 60 minutes, 1 ℃/min or 1.5 ℃/min are cooled to 40 ℃ and soap, and are warming up to 80 ℃ at full speed again, be incubated 20 minutes, wash after the cooling.
(5), centrifugal drying dehydration, untwisting, open-width.
(6) auxiliary agent typing: softener 25g/L, antistatic additive 10g/L, 170 ℃ of typings; The speed of a motor vehicle: 30m/min.
(7) jar steaming
Use KD series jar steaming machine, use " KD SPECIAL OUT-IN-OUT " special conversion spotting (" outer → interior → outer " special conversion process)
Make outside to inside that finishing time is 90 seconds, upset finishing time 60 seconds, penetrates arrangement pressure 0.8Kg at 5 seconds time delay of upset.
Composition such as employed various dye well auxiliary agents is the general raw material of textile dyeing and finishing industry in the above-mentioned technology.The same known technology of the operation that does not relate to.
The present invention has following advantage:
1. the present invention has realized terylene, day silk, bamboo fibre, ramie, and the reasonably combined and combination of conductive fiber.Both utilized big, the well-pressed mechanical characteristic of terylene brute force, the good characteristic of fibers such as day silk, bamboo fibre and ramie and good wearability have been made full use of simultaneously again, realized that the mutual supplement with each other's advantages and the inferior position of each fiber subdue, conductive fiber blending simultaneously in yarn, antistatic effect better, more lasting.This lining has that moisture absorption, ventilative, antistatic, well-pressed, smooth, good hand feeling, drapability are good, anti-fluffing and anti-pilling, shape-retaining ability can be good, antibiotic etc. good characteristic, good, the easy nursing of wearability is current fashion, high-grade lining.
2. lining product of the present invention meets today's trend and market popularity trend, is the optimal selection of high-grade fabric.Every physical index of product is good, the dyefastness height, and performance is better than the pure natural fiber lining.
3. products material cost of the present invention low (terylene is a main component), the lining moderate cost only is 1/8 of a ramie series products; And good performance can be catered to consumer psychology, the huge market demand.
4. technology of the present invention is reasonable, spinnability, the stainability of each fiber have been taken into full account, technological parameter to each part has carried out rational collocation and screening, has solved the difficult problem of spinning, dyeing, for superior, the comfortableness of chemical fiber plus material have been established solid foundation.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is a looming draft;
Fig. 2 is the one-bath process curve synoptic diagram;
Fig. 3 is the two-bath dyeing curve synoptic diagram.
The specific embodiment
Below by specific embodiment the present invention is elaborated:
" terylene/sky silk/bamboo fibre/ramie/conductive fiber " single face gabardine
One, spinning process
1. spinning specification:
Resultant yarn: 10.7tex single thread (or 55 s/ 1), Z twists with the fingers (twist with the fingers to), 1050T/m (twist).
2. blending rate and fiber dimensious:
It silk A100 (non-fibrillation sky silk) 15% 38mm (filament length) * 1.5D (filament fineness)
Ramie 10% 50mm * 8D
Bamboo fibre 10% 38mm * 1.5D
Terylene short fiber 64.4% 48mm * 0.8D
Conductive fiber (carbon black is compounded with organic fiber) 0.6% 38mm * 3D
3. mixing procedure:
Mix the auxiliary agent ratio: amount of water 88% adds antistatic auxiliary agent (FK-20, China spin auxiliary agent company of institute of section) amount 12%; The sprinkling mixed aid is about 1.3% of a fibre weight (spinning material).
4. carding process
The heavy 3g/m of bar, 18 rev/mins of sliver exporting speeds, combing 1 road.
5. spinning process
The heavy surely 3.55g/10m of spinning,
Ingot speed 10000rpm (rev/min), 25 times of drafting multiples,
Grain traveller G9 #
5. winding process
Winder speed 1000m/min
Two, weaving process
1. weave preceding preparatory technology:
1. doubling, double twisting:
With the doubling frame of sth. made by twisting being arranged, become folded yarn 55 with two single thread doublings s/ 2;
With two-for-one twister twisting, twist 1300T/m, S twists with the fingers, ingot speed 12000rpm.
2. yarn steaming: 90 ℃ of yarn steaming temperature, 120 minutes time.
Behind the yarn steaming as warp thread and weft yarn.
3. section warping technology
6700 of total quantity of warps, hank number 19 strands,
Warping tension force 20dN, beaming tension force 0.2MPa.
4. denting: combine for 7, wherein: 6628 of ground warps, 72 on limit; Ground warp is along wearing 234567; Wear on the limit, heavily flat 11.22 porter 126.5#/10cm, and ground is organized reed to go into several 3 to go into, and the limit is worn 4 and is gone into.
5. looming draft as shown in Figure 1,2/1 is tiltedly right
Among the figure: " * " represents through interlacing point; " zero " expression latitude interlacing point.
2. weaving process
Warp thread, weft yarn are identical: 55 s/ 2, S twists with the fingers, and 1300 T/ m,
Grey cloth specification: fabric width 169cm, grammes per square metre 168g/m 2,
Last machine is through close 375/10cm, and following machine is through close 395/10cm;
225/10cm of last machine filling density, 245/10cm. of following machine filling density
Use the G6300 Rapier looms, 450 rev/mins of the speed of a motor vehicle, back rest height position of rule 110,315 ° of opening times adopt unintelligible opening.Grey cloth coupe 90m cropping.
Three, dyeing and finishing technology:
(1), dyeing pretreatment process
1, boiling and bleaching process
NaoH 4g/L, H 2O 26g/L, scouring agent (NF-2, Weihai letter and fine chemistry industry company) 2g/L, bleeding agent (TX, Weihai letter and fine chemistry industry company) 1.5g/L, hydrogen peroxide bleaching stabilizer (FB-60, Shenzhen holy waffle worker company) 3g/L, chelating agent (PGM20, sea, Shaoxing day chemical company) 2g/L.95 ℃ * 60 minutes
2, mercerization
The mercerization of 170g/L concentration of lye, the speed of a motor vehicle are 40 meters/minute.
3, acid treatment process
Ferment enzyme (DH505, pool, Shanghai star chemical industry Co., Ltd) 1g/L, bleeding agent 0.8g/L, acetic acid 0.8g/L, 55 ℃ * 50 minutes
(2) dyeing:
Use the dyeing of High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine rope form piece dyeing,, adopt two baths, two-step process dyeing with DISPERSE DYES, REACTIVE DYES:
One-bath process: disperse dyeing, technology and dyeing curve map as shown in Figure 2:
Two bathe: reactive dyeing, technology and dyeing curve as shown in Figure 3:
(3), centrifugal dehydrator dewaters the cloth generate open width after will dying with the untwisting scutcher.
(4), auxiliary agent typing
Softener (S40, Weihai letter and company) 25g/L, antistatic additive (AT-47, Weihai letter and company) 10g/L, 170 ℃ of setting temperatures, the typing speed of a motor vehicle: 30m/min
(5) jar steaming
Use the KD95 jar and steam machine, use " KD SPECIAL OUT-IN-OUT " special conversion spotting.
Finishing time 90 seconds, upset finishing time 60 seconds overturns 5 seconds time delay, and steam penetrates arrangement pressure 0.8Kg, interlayer pressure-reducing valve pressure 1.2Kg, the winding tension performing a programme stt10. of cloth on cylinder steaming roller
Four, check, clot packing.
Five, trimmed size:
Finished product fabric width 1.5m, finished product be through close 445/10cm, 280/10cm of finished product filling density, finished product grammes per square metre: 180g/m 2
Six, lining performance and index
1, the shape-retaining ability of lining is good, dimensionally stable
Washing size changing rate (washing shrinkage): warp-wise :-0.4%; Broadwise :-0.3%.
2. antistatic property is good, lasting
(1) lotus surface density: initial, 0.65 μ C/m 2After washing 50 times, 0.72 μ C/m 2
(2) electrostatic half-life: initial, 0.3S; After washing 50 times, 0.3S.
3. anti-fluffing and anti-pilling is effective
4 grades of anti-fluffing and anti-pillings.
4. good stiffness
Bending length: radially, 1.9cm; Broadwise, 1.7cm.
5. good slow elastic energy
Crease recovery angle: initial, 304 degree; After washing 15 times, 260 degree.
6. dyefastness height
Color fastness to washing 4-5 level; Color fastness to hot pressing 4-5 level; Fast light (Exposure to Sunlight) fastness 4-5 level;
Colour fastness to rubbing: unlubricated friction 4-5 level, the wet 3-4 level of rubbing.
7. high ventilation, water vapour permeability
Air permenbility, 176mm/s; Vapor transfer rate, 11260g/m 2D.
8. good antibacterial characteristics.
9. good hand feeling: cloth cover is smooth, good hand feeling.
Embodiment 2:
According to embodiment 1 technology, spinning material is:
It silk 12% 38mm * 1.5D
Ramie 12% 50mm * 8D
Bamboo fibre 12% 38mm * 1.5D
Terylene short fiber 63.3% 48mm * 0.8D
Conductive fiber 0.7% 38mm * 3D
Lining performance and index
1, the shape-retaining ability of lining is good, dimensionally stable
Washing size changing rate (washing shrinkage): radially :-0.6%; Broadwise :-0.5%.
2. antistatic property is good, lasting
(1) surface density of charge: initial, 0.60 μ C/m 2After washing 50 times, 0.68 μ C/m 2
(2) electrostatic half-life: initial, 0.3S; After washing 50 times, 0.3S.
3. anti-fluffing and anti-pilling is effective
4 grades of anti-fluffing and anti-pillings.
4. good stiffness
Bending length: warp-wise, 1.7cm; Broadwise, 1.6cm.
5. good slow elastic energy
Crease recovery angle: initial, 310 degree; After washing 15 times, 265 degree.
6. dyefastness height
4 grades of color fastness to washings; Color fastness to hot pressing 4-5 level; Fast light (Exposure to Sunlight) fastness 4-5 level;
Colour fastness to rubbing: unlubricated friction 4-5 level, wet and rub 3 grades.
7. high ventilation, water vapour permeability
Air permenbility, 185mm/s; Vapor transfer rate, 11200g/m 2D.
8. good antibacterial characteristics.
9. good hand feeling: cloth cover is smooth, good hand feeling.
Embodiment 3:
According to embodiment 1 technology, spinning material is:
It silk A100 18% 38mm * 1.5D
Ramie 8% 50mm * 8D
Bamboo fibre 8.5% 38mm * 1.5D
Terylene short fiber 65% 48mm * 0.8D
Conductive fiber 0.5% 38mm * 3D
Lining performance and index
1, the shape-retaining ability of lining is good, dimensionally stable
Washing size changing rate (washing shrinkage): radially :-0.8%; Broadwise :-0.7%.
2. antistatic property is good, lasting
(1) surface density of charge: initial, 0.76 μ C/m 2After washing 50 times, 0.81 μ C/m 2
(2) electrostatic half-life: initial, 0.3S; After washing 50 times, 0.5S.
3. anti-fluffing and anti-pilling is effective
4 grades of anti-fluffing and anti-pillings.
4. good stiffness
Bending length: radially, 1.8cm; Broadwise, 1.7cm.
5. good slow elastic energy
Crease recovery angle: initial, 295 degree; After washing 15 times, 255 degree.
6. dyefastness height
4 grades of color fastness to washings; Color fastness to hot pressing 4-5 level; 4 grades of fast light (Exposure to Sunlight) fastness;
Colour fastness to rubbing: unlubricated friction 4-5 level, wet and rub 3 grades.
7. high ventilation, water vapour permeability
Air permenbility, 160mm/s; Vapor transfer rate, 11150g/m 2D.
8. good antibacterial characteristics.
9. good hand feeling: cloth cover is smooth, good hand feeling.

Claims (2)

1. a multicomponent fiber blended fabric is characterized in that it being to be made by following raw material blending, and warp thread is identical with weft yarn, and the weight proportion of spinning material is:
It silk 11-20%
Ramie 8-12%
Bamboo fibre 8-12%
Terylene short fiber 60-65%
Conductive fiber 0.5-0.7%
Described conductive fiber is that carbon black is compounded with organic fiber.
2. the preparation technology of the described multicomponent fiber blended fabric of claim 1 is characterized in that comprising the steps:
(1) spinning:
(1) spinning specification
A. resultant yarn: the 9.8tex-13.1tex single thread, twist 1050T/m twists with the fingers and twists with the fingers to Z;
B. weight proportion:
Terylene: day silk: bamboo fibre: ramie: conductive fiber=60-65%: 11-20%: 8-12%: 8-12%: 0.5-0.7%;
(2) mixing procedure and parameter:
Anionic antistatic agents is mixed the auxiliary agent for preparing with water according to weight proportion 1: 8-10 be sprayed in the spinning material, addition is the 1-2% of spinning material weight;
(3) carding process:
Bar is heavy: 3.2-3.3g/m
Sliver exporting speed: 16~20 rev/mins
Combing: 1 road;
(4) spinning process:
Spinning is fixed heavy: 2.7-2.8g/10m
Ingot speed: 10000-12000 rev/min
Drafting multiple: 20-25 doubly
Grain traveller G6 #-G16 #
(5) winding process:
Winder speed 600-1200m/min;
(2), weave preceding preparatory technology:
1. doubling, double twisting:
Twist with the fingers doubling frame with two single thread and close with having, with two-for-one twister twisting, twist 1200-1300T/m, S twists with the fingers, ingot speed 12000rpm;
2. yarn steaming: 90 ℃ of yarn steaming temperature, 120 minutes time;
Behind the yarn steaming as warp thread and weft yarn;
3. section warping technology
Total quantity of warps 6600-6800 root, hank number 15-20 strand,
Warping tension force 20dN,
Beaming tension force 0.2Mpa;
(3) weaving process
Grey cloth specification: fabric width 168-170cm, grammes per square metre 160-180g/m 2,
Adopt Rapier looms or air-jet loom weaving,
315 ° of opening times;
(4), dyeing and finishing technology
(1) dyeing pretreatment process
A, boiling and bleaching process
Deoil under 95 ℃, kiering and rinsing 60 minutes;
B, mercerization
The mercerization of 170g/L concentration of lye;
C, acid treatment process
Acetic acid 0.8g/L, enzyme-added 1-2g/L, refining agent 1g/L handled 50 minutes down at 55 ℃;
(2) dyeing
Adopt High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine rope form piece dyeing dyeing, with dispersion fuel, REACTIVE DYES, two baths, two-step process dyeing:
First bath, disperse dyeing: room temperature adds the dispersion dyestuff, and computer 1 ℃/min of control or 1.5 ℃/min are warming up to 130 ℃, be incubated 40 minutes, 1 ℃/min or 1.5 ℃/min are cooled to 40 ℃ and soap, and are warming up to 80 ℃ at full speed again, be incubated 20 minutes, wash after the cooling at full speed;
Second bathes, and reactive dyeing: room temperature adds REACTIVE DYES, and computer 1 ℃/min of control or 1.5 ℃/min are warming up to 60 ℃, be incubated 60 minutes, 1 ℃/min or 1.5 ℃/min are cooled to 40 ℃ and soap, and are warming up to 80 ℃ at full speed again, be incubated 20 minutes, wash after the cooling;
(3) centrifugal drying dehydration, untwisting, open-width;
(4) auxiliary agent typing: use softener 25g/L, antistatic additive 10g/L, 170 ℃ of typings, the speed of a motor vehicle: 30m/min;
(5) jar steaming
Use KD series jar steaming machine, use " KD SPECIAL OUT-IN-OUT " conversion spotting, make outside to inside that finishing time is 90 seconds, upset finishing time 60 seconds, penetrates arrangement pressure 0.8Kg at 5 seconds time delay of upset.
CN2008100152460A 2008-04-14 2008-04-14 Multicomponent fiber blended fabric and preparation thereof Expired - Fee Related CN101275327B (en)

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