CN106436269A - Clothing fabric dyeing and finishing process - Google Patents

Clothing fabric dyeing and finishing process Download PDF

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Publication number
CN106436269A
CN106436269A CN201610881054.2A CN201610881054A CN106436269A CN 106436269 A CN106436269 A CN 106436269A CN 201610881054 A CN201610881054 A CN 201610881054A CN 106436269 A CN106436269 A CN 106436269A
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Prior art keywords
dyeing
agent
fabric
finishing
desizing
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CN201610881054.2A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
杨小兵
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Guangzhou Genryoku Mdt Infotech Ltd
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Guangzhou Genryoku Mdt Infotech Ltd
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Priority to CN201610881054.2A priority Critical patent/CN106436269A/en
Publication of CN106436269A publication Critical patent/CN106436269A/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • D06L1/12Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
    • D06L1/14De-sizing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B7/00Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising
    • D06B7/08Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising of fabrics of indefinite length
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/68Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof
    • D06M11/72Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof with metaphosphoric acids or their salts; with polyphosphoric acids or their salts; with perphosphoric acids or their salts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/73Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/76Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof with carbon oxides or carbonates
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/77Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with silicon or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/79Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with silicon or compounds thereof with silicon dioxide, silicic acids or their salts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/224Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic acid
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • D06M15/6436Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain containing amino groups
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/653Nitrogen-free carboxylic acids or their salts
    • D06P1/6533Aliphatic, araliphatic or cycloaliphatic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • D06P1/67358Halides or oxyhalides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8209Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing amide groups
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/02After-treatment
    • D06P5/04After-treatment with organic compounds
    • D06P5/08After-treatment with organic compounds macromolecular
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/02After-treatment
    • D06P5/10After-treatment with compounds containing metal
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04Vegetal fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10Animal fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12Keratin fibres or silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/20Treatment influencing the crease behaviour, the wrinkle resistance, the crease recovery or the ironing ease

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides a clothing fabric dyeing and finishing process, the clothing fabric is woven from animal protein fibers or plant protein fibers, the dyeing and finishing process comprises the steps of S1: destarching; S2: bleaching; S3: presetting; S4: silkete; S5: dyeing; S6: fixation; S7: post finishing; S8: stentering and finalizing the design; S9: anti crease treatment; the dyeing process at the destarching step adopts enzyme destarching long bench steam water washing method to increase the color fastness of fabrics, is free of dyeing defects and color differences, meanwhile at the silkete step controls each step parameter, keeps excellent color gloss for the fabrics, increases yarn strength, and controls the stability of material size. In addition, the process overcomes the dyeing reappearance in fabric dyeing and finishing production process and relatively poor color fastness and damages of fabric elasticity and strength under high temperature in prior art, the woven fabric is high in strength, good in elasticity, stable in size, strong in hair feel, rich in hand feel, soft in color gross, good in color fastness.

Description

A kind of dyeing and finishing technology of garment material
Technical field
The present invention relates to textile technology field, more particularly to a kind of dyeing and finishing technology of garment material.
Background technology
The garment material that the mankind use generally includes the leather that can directly obtain, feather class, and it has larger size, can Suitable shape is obtained with cutting out by simple concatenation.And the mostly textile fabric as garment material, that is, pass through The various clothes that pair warp and weft is worked out.In today that garment technology industry is increasingly flourishing, the requirement to clothes quality for the people Improve therewith, constantly in the highest quality pursuing clothes, thus higher requirement be it is also proposed to garment material, garment material Make also rigorous therewith, more pay attention to detail.
Knitting fabric is widely used in the product such as garment material and lining, home textile, is liked by consumers in general.Logical Often, knitting fabric is mutually worn by coil, because coil can change shapes and sizes, therefore knitting fabric have larger Extensibility and certain elasticity.With the development of sports, with the leotard of elastic knitted fabric fabric sewing, leisure Clothes, including various swimming suits, gym outfit, anorak, jersey etc., demand is increasing, and with people's living standard not Disconnected raising, the quality requirement more and more higher to above-mentioned knitted apparel for the people.
A kind of knitting fabric being loved by the people, generally have good extensibility and recovery, excellent elasticity and Soft comfortable effect, also has abundant color effect simultaneously, and the dyeing and finishing technology breath breath representing with fabric of these premium properties Related.The whole dyeing technique of traditional fabric, including desizing, boiling-off, chlorine drift, preboarding, dyeing, drying, shaping process, first, Before desizing operation, do not do removal of impurities and process, the surface of fabric is more coarse, can affect whole dye effect;Secondly, in the dyeing face of drying After material, directly shaped, be easily caused the fabric after dyeing, gauffer is easily occurred, affected the whole dye effect of fabric further. Much there is more defect in the dyeing and finishing technology of knitting fabric, such as:Process links arrangement is unreasonable, Color is not good, normal appearance The defect such as wrinkle and rope form fine wrinkle, carbon brush and raising process bad etc..These defects have had a strong impact on the product matter of knitting fabric Amount and wearability, therefore be necessary to be optimized improvement to the dyeing and finishing technology of knitting fabric, to overcome drawbacks described above.
Content of the invention
The invention aims to overcoming above-mentioned technological deficiency, provide a kind of process is simple, safety and environmental protection, dyeing is accurate Really, color fastness is strong, the dyeing and finishing technology of high yield rate and the good garment material of working (machining) efficiency.
For achieving the above object, the present invention is achieved by the following scheme:
A kind of dyeing and finishing technology of garment material, described garment material is animal protein fiber or phytoprotein fiber spins Knit and form, described dyeing and finishing technology is divided into following steps:
S1:Desizing:Garment material is put into temperature range swelling process in 60-65 DEG C of swelling groove, then enters temperature Scope carries out desizing in 80-90 DEG C of refining groove, refining groove built with desizing liquid, then sequentially through 70 ± 2 DEG C of hot water wash and 65 ± 2 DEG C of hot water wash, after wash post-drying through cold water;The formula of wherein desizing liquid consists of 0.2-1.5g/L BF-7658 desizing Enzyme liquid, 3g/L sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium metasilicate 3-6g/L, 2.4g/L fatty alcohol ether, 2g/L chelated dispersants SR, the pH value 8 of 8g/L Soda bath, the alkali-resistant penetrant of 5-6g/L and 6g/L refining agent, desizing machine speed 40m/min, wherein, described refining agent For the mixture of soda ash and iodate dioctyl succinate sodium salt, and the ratio of the two is 1:1;
S2:Bleaching:Fabric immersion after desizing is added the sodium hypochlorite of pH value 9.7-10 of 5g/L, 3-6g/L connect two Asias Sodium sulphate, 7g/L AEO, 12g/L stabilizer, rinse 65-70 minute at 120 DEG C;
S3:Pre-setting:60-80 DEG C one section drying 5-8min in dryer;160-220 DEG C two sections drying 10- again 15min;
S4:Mercerising:Fabric after pre-setting is carried out mercerization finish, specifically uses NaOH 5-8g/L, penetrating agent JFC 3- 5g/L, processes 20-30min in 60-70 DEG C of water-bath, and bath raio is 1:25;
S5:Dyeing:The fabric that S4 is walked mercerising first carries out disperse dyeing, after disperse dyeing cleans up, then Carry out reactive dyeing;Described disperse dyeing process is as follows:By the disperse dyes of 1-4%o.w.f, 2g/L chelating dispersion Agent 1030,0.8g/L glacial acetic acid, 1g/L terylene Special high-temperature TF-212F levelling agent are configured to dye liquor, and the fabric of mercerising is placed in In above-mentioned dye liquor, adjust bath raio 1:7, it is warming up to 132-136 DEG C of insulation 50min, after the completion of dyeing, draining of lowering the temperature, reduced Cleaning;The technique of described reactive dyeing is as follows:By the reactive dye of 1.5%o.w.f, 1%o.w.f migration inhibitor, 200g/ L sodium chloride is configured to dye liquor, the fabric through dispersion dyeing is placed in above-mentioned activity dye liquor, adjusts bath raio 1:8, adopt 10 DEG C/ramp of min to 70 DEG C, add glauber salt, be incubated 15min, add 20g/L sodium carbonate, 5g/L NaOH, insulation 45min, draining, then carry out next step operation;
S6:Fixation:Fabric after dyeing is put into and in fixation liquid, carries out fixation, described fixation liquid contains salt 8-lOg/L, Color fixing agent 75-85g/L, bath raio is 25:1,60-80 DEG C of color fixing temperature, the fixation time is 30-50min, is then existed by dryer 80 DEG C of preliminary drying 2-3min, then bake 3min at 140-160 DEG C;
S7:Final finishing:Four anti-arrangements are carried out using nanometer finishing agent;
S8:Stentering forming:Cloth after Final finishing is dried and stentering forming in 80-90 DEG C;
S9:Wrinkle resistant process:Wrinkle resistant process is made using form stable agent BHES-50 to cotton, described form stable agent The formula of BHES-50 is as follows:Its concentration of BHES-50 is 10-15%o.w.f, bath raio:1:30, temperature is 80-90 DEG C, Marionol KF 2g/L.
Wherein, in described disperse dyeing, disperse dyes select any one of high temperature modification disperse dyes, including Zhejiang The black WHTS of dispersion of Long Sheng dye chemical industry Co., Ltd, the black HW-BG of dispersion or disperse blue WNBTS.
Described reactive dye are iso-bifunctional group or the dyestuff of vinyl sulfone(RemzaolHuo Xingranliaohuoxingjituan) active group, and described reactive dye grain fineness Less than 1 micron;Described migration inhibitor is flat Ma Su.
The nanometer finishing agent that described Final finishing adopts is by amido silicon oil NSW, waterproofing agent NT-X604A, oil-proofing agent NT- X604B, anti-fouling agent NT-X603D, resin NT-X603E and composite catalyst NKS composition, add amido silicon oil in every liter water 15 grams of 40 grams of 40 grams of 2 grams of NSW, waterproofing agent NT-X604A, oil-proofing agent NT-X604B, anti-fouling agent NT-X603D, resin NT- 10 grams of 15 grams of X603E, composite catalyst NKS;Prepare and use glacial acetic acid carwash, pad fabric with four liquid-proof preparing, use steam It is heated to 120-130 degree, drying cylinder is dried 90 seconds.
Described color fixing agent is dialkylaminomethyl group quaternary ammonium acrylate polymeric dye fixative agent.
Described animal protein fiber is wool or silk;Described phytoprotein fiber is that soybean regenerated protein is fine Dimension.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows:(1) dyeing and finishing technology of the present invention, adopts enzyme desizing long vehicle gas to steam washing in desizing Method makes cloth color fastness high, there is not color flower or aberration phenomenon, controls parameters in mercerization finish so that fabric simultaneously There is good gloss, improve yarn strength, control the stability of fabric size.(2) instant invention overcomes prior art pair Reproducibility and color fastness is poor and fabric elasticity and strength damage under the high temperature conditions in shell-fabric dyeing and finishing process Defect, fabric strength is high, elastic good, dimensionally stable, and well-pressed, the feel of wool is strong, good hand feeling, and gloss is soft, good color fastness.(3) originally Inventing used in whole dyeing technique is all general chemistry auxiliary agent more common on the market, and without high-end devices, overall work Skill is simple, easy control of process conditions, and safety and environmental protection;Larger amount of fabric can disposably be carried out additionally by this kind of technique Dyeing and finishing, allows working (machining) efficiency to be ensured.(4) this dyeing and finishing technology not only remains the original good characteristic of fabric, and four is anti- Performance is good, strength loss is little, dyefastness is high, has airing function, rational technology, according to detection, every chemistry of product refers to Mark all meets the requirements.
Specific embodiment
The enforcement it is clear that described will be clearly and completely described to the technical scheme in the embodiment of the present invention below Example is only a part of embodiment of the present invention, rather than whole embodiments.Based on the embodiment in the present invention, this area is common The every other embodiment that technical staff is obtained under the premise of not making creative work, broadly falls into the model of present invention protection Enclose.
Embodiment 1
A kind of dyeing and finishing technology of garment material, described garment material is formed by weaving for wool animal protein fiber, described Dyeing and finishing technology be divided into following steps:
S1:Desizing:Garment material is put into temperature range swelling process in 60 DEG C of swelling grooves, then enters temperature range Carry out desizing in 80 DEG C of refining groove, refine groove built with desizing liquid, then sequentially through 70 DEG C of hot water wash and 65 DEG C of hot water wash, Post-drying is washed through cold water after;The formula of wherein desizing liquid consists of 0.6g/L BF-7658 desizing enzyme liquid, 3g/L tripolyphosphate Sodium, sodium metasilicate 3g/L, 2.4g/L fatty alcohol ether, 2g/L chelated dispersants SR, the soda bath of pH value 8 of 8g/L, 5g/L resistance to Alkali penetrating agent and the refining agent of 6g/L, desizing machine speed 40m/min, wherein, described refining agent is soda ash and iodate butanedioic acid two The mixture of monooctyl ester sodium salt, and the ratio of the two is 1:1;
S2:Bleaching:Fabric immersion after desizing is added sodium hypochlorite, the 3g/L hydrosulfurous acid of the pH value 9.7 of 5g/L Sodium, 7g/L AEO, 12g/L stabilizer, rinse 65 minutes at 120 DEG C;
S3:Pre-setting:60 DEG C one section drying 5-8min in dryer;160 DEG C two sections drying 10min again;
S4:Mercerising:Fabric after pre-setting is carried out mercerization finish, specifically uses NaOH 5g/L, penetrating agent JFC 3g/ L, processes 20min in 60 DEG C of water-baths, and bath raio is 1:25;
S5:Dyeing:The fabric that S4 is walked mercerising first carries out disperse dyeing, after disperse dyeing cleans up, then Carry out reactive dyeing;Described disperse dyeing process is as follows:The disperse dyes of 1%o.w.f are disperseed black HW-BG, 2g/ L chelated dispersants 1030,0.8g/L glacial acetic acid, 1g/L terylene Special high-temperature TF-212F levelling agent are configured to dye liquor, will be through silk rolling The fabric of light is placed in above-mentioned dye liquor, adjusts bath raio 1:7, it is warming up to 132 DEG C of insulation 50min, after the completion of dyeing, draining of lowering the temperature, Carry out reduction cleaning;The technique of described reactive dyeing is as follows:Reactive dye vinyl sulfone(RemzaolHuo Xingranliaohuoxingjituan) active group dye by 1.5%o.w.f Material, 1%o.w.f migration inhibitor flat Ma Su, 200g/L sodium chloride are configured to dye liquor, the fabric through dispersion dyeing are placed in above-mentioned In active dye liquor, adjust bath raio 1:8, using 10 DEG C/min ramp to 70 DEG C, add glauber salt, be incubated 15min, add 20g/L sodium carbonate, 5g/L NaOH, are incubated 45min, draining, then carry out next step operation;
S6:Fixation:Fabric after dyeing is put into and in fixation liquid, carries out fixation, described fixation liquid contains salt 8g/L, Gu Toner dialkylaminomethyl group quaternary ammonium acrylate polymer 75g/L, bath raio is 25:1,60 DEG C of color fixing temperature, the fixation time For 30min, then pass through dryer in 80 DEG C of preliminary drying 2min, then bake 3min at 140 DEG C;
S7:Final finishing:Four anti-arrangements are carried out using nanometer finishing agent;
S8:Stentering forming:Cloth after Final finishing is dried and stentering forming in 80 DEG C;
S9:Wrinkle resistant process:Wrinkle resistant process is made using form stable agent BHES-50 to cotton, described form stable agent The formula of BHES-50 is as follows:Its concentration of BHES-50 is 10%o.w.f, bath raio:1:30, temperature is 80 DEG C, Marionol KF 2g/L.
Embodiment 2
A kind of dyeing and finishing technology of garment material, described garment material is formed by weaving for soybean azlon, described Dyeing and finishing technology be divided into following steps:
S1:Desizing:Garment material is put into temperature range swelling process in 65 DEG C of swelling grooves, then enters temperature range Carry out desizing in 90 DEG C of refining groove, refine groove built with desizing liquid, then sequentially through 72 DEG C of hot water wash and 67 DEG C of hot water wash, Post-drying is washed through cold water after;The formula of wherein desizing liquid consists of 1.5g/L BF-7658 desizing enzyme liquid, 3g/L tripolyphosphate Sodium, sodium metasilicate 6g/L, 2.4g/L fatty alcohol ether, 2g/L chelated dispersants SR, the soda bath of pH value 8 of 8g/L, 6g/L resistance to Alkali penetrating agent and the refining agent of 6g/L, desizing machine speed 40m/min, wherein, described refining agent is soda ash and iodate butanedioic acid two The mixture of monooctyl ester sodium salt, and the ratio of the two is 1:1;
S2:Bleaching:Fabric immersion after desizing is added sodium hypochlorite, the 6g/L hydrosulfurous acid of the pH value 10 of 5g/L Sodium, 7g/L AEO, 12g/L stabilizer, rinse 70 minutes at 120 DEG C;
S3:Pre-setting:80 DEG C one section drying 8min in dryer;220 DEG C two sections drying 15min again;
S4:Mercerising:Fabric after pre-setting is carried out mercerization finish, specifically uses NaOH 8g/L, penetrating agent JFC 5g/ L, processes 30min in 70 DEG C of water-baths, and bath raio is 1:25;
S5:Dyeing:The fabric that S4 is walked mercerising first carries out disperse dyeing, after disperse dyeing cleans up, then Carry out reactive dyeing;Described disperse dyeing process is as follows:Disperse dyes disperse blue WNBTS, 2g/ by 4%o.w.f L chelated dispersants 1030,0.8g/L glacial acetic acid, 1g/L terylene Special high-temperature TF-212F levelling agent are configured to dye liquor, will be through silk rolling The fabric of light is placed in above-mentioned dye liquor, adjusts bath raio 1:7, it is warming up to 136 DEG C of insulation 50min, after the completion of dyeing, draining of lowering the temperature, Carry out reduction cleaning;The technique of described reactive dyeing is as follows:By the iso-bifunctional group reactive dye of 1.5%o.w.f, 1% O.w.f migration inhibitor flat Ma Su, 200g/L sodium chloride is configured to dye liquor, and the fabric through dispersion dyeing is placed in above-mentioned activity dye In liquid, adjust bath raio 1:8, using 10 DEG C/min ramp to 70 DEG C, add glauber salt, be incubated 15min, add 20g/L Sodium carbonate, 5g/L NaOH, are incubated 45min, draining, then carry out next step operation;
S6:Fixation:Fabric after dyeing is put into and carried out fixation in fixation liquid, described fixation liquid contains salt lOg/L, two Alkylaminomethacrylates QAS polymer color fixing agent 85g/L, bath raio is 25:1,80 DEG C of color fixing temperature, the fixation time For 50min, then pass through dryer in 80 DEG C of preliminary drying 3min, then bake 3min at 160 DEG C;
S7:Final finishing:Four anti-arrangements are carried out using nanometer finishing agent;
S8:Stentering forming:Cloth after Final finishing is dried and stentering forming in 90 DEG C;
S9:Wrinkle resistant process:Wrinkle resistant process is made using form stable agent BHES-50 to cotton, described form stable agent The formula of BHES-50 is as follows:Its concentration of BHES-50 is 15%o.w.f, bath raio:1:30, temperature is 90 DEG C, Marionol KF 2g/L.
The examination and test of products:
The dyeing and finishing technology of the clothes cloth material of the embodiment of the present invention 1 preparation, through inspection, reaches following performance indications:
1. washable, perspiration resistance, fastness to rubbing:4-5 level;
2. elimination of off flavor performance:Peculiar smell rate of descent 62% (8 hours);
3. far-infrared textiles, normal emittance 0.92;
4. content of formaldehyde be up to state standards requirement (<53/kg);
5. disperse materials dye-uptake 78%;
Moreover, it will be appreciated that although this specification is been described by according to embodiment, not each embodiment only wraps Containing an independent technical scheme, only for clarity, those skilled in the art should for this narrating mode of specification Using specification as an entirety, the technical scheme in each embodiment can also form those skilled in the art through appropriately combined Understandable other embodiment.

Claims (7)

1. a kind of dyeing and finishing technology of garment material, described garment material is by animal protein fiber or phytoprotein fibrous woven Form it is characterised in that described dyeing and finishing technology is divided into following steps:
S1:Desizing:Garment material is put into temperature range swelling process in 60-65 DEG C of swelling groove, then enters temperature range Carry out desizing in 80-90 DEG C of refining groove, refine groove built with desizing liquid, then sequentially through 70 ± 2 DEG C of hot water wash and 65 ± 2 DEG C hot water wash, after wash post-drying through cold water;The formula of wherein desizing liquid consist of 0.2-1.5g/L BF-7658 desizing enzyme liquid, 3g/L sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium metasilicate 3-6g/L, 2.4g/L fatty alcohol ether, 2g/L chelated dispersants SR, the caustic soda of the pH value 8 of 8g/L The refining agent of solution, the alkali-resistant penetrant of 5-6g/L and 6g/L, desizing machine speed 40m/min, wherein, described refining agent is soda ash With the mixture of iodate dioctyl succinate sodium salt, and the ratio of the two be 1:1;
S2:Bleaching:By the fabric after desizing immerse the sodium hypochlorite of pH value 9.7-10 of 5g/L, 3-6g/L sodium dithionite, 7g/L AEO, 12g/L stabilizer, rinse 65-70 minute at 120 DEG C;
S3:Pre-setting:60-80 DEG C one section drying 5-8min in dryer;160-220 DEG C two sections drying 10-15min again;
S4:Mercerising:Fabric after pre-setting is carried out mercerization finish, specifically uses NaOH 5-8g/L, penetrating agent JFC 3-5g/ L, processes 20-30min in 60-70 DEG C of water-bath, and bath raio is 1:25;
S5:Dyeing:The fabric that S4 is walked mercerization finish first carries out disperse dyeing, after disperse dyeing cleans up, then Carry out reactive dyeing;Described disperse dyeing process is as follows:By the disperse dyes of 1-4%o.w.f, 2g/L chelating dispersion Agent 1030,0.8g/L glacial acetic acid, 1g/L terylene Special high-temperature TF-212F levelling agent are configured to dye liquor, by through mercerization finish Fabric is placed in above-mentioned dye liquor, adjusts bath raio 1:7, it is warming up to 132-136 DEG C of insulation 50min, after the completion of dyeing, draining of lowering the temperature, Carry out reduction cleaning;The technique of described reactive dyeing is as follows:By the reactive dye of 1.5%o.w.f, the anti-migration of 1%o.w.f Agent, 200g/L sodium chloride are configured to dye liquor, the fabric through dispersion dyeing is placed in above-mentioned activity dye liquor, adjusts bath raio 1:8, Using 10 DEG C/min ramp to 70 DEG C, add glauber salt, be incubated 15min, add 20g/L sodium carbonate, 5g/L hydroxide Sodium, is incubated 45min, draining, then carries out next step operation;
S6:Fixation:Fabric after dyeing is put into and in fixation liquid, carries out fixation, described fixation liquid contains salt 8-lOg/L, fixation Agent 75-85g/L, bath raio is 25:1,60-80 DEG C of color fixing temperature, the fixation time is 30-50min, then passes through dryer at 80 DEG C Preliminary drying 2-3min, then bakes 3min at 140-160 DEG C;
S7:Final finishing:Four anti-arrangements are carried out using nanometer finishing agent;
S8:Stentering forming:Fabric after Final finishing is dried and stentering forming in 80-90 DEG C;
S9:Wrinkle resistant process:Wrinkle resistant process is made using form stable agent BHES-50 to fabric, described form stable agent BHES-50 Formula as follows:Its concentration of BHES-50 is 10-15%o.w.f, bath raio:1:30, temperature is 80-90 DEG C, Marionol KF 2g/L.
2. dyeing and finishing technology according to claim 1 it is characterised in that in described disperse dyeing disperse dyes select high Any one of warm type disperse dyes, including the black WHTS of dispersion of Zhejiang Longsheng Dye Chemical Co., Ltd, disperse black HW-BG or Disperse blue WNBTS.
3. dyeing and finishing technology according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that described reactive dye are iso-bifunctional group or ethene The dyestuff of sulfone active group, and described reactive dye grain fineness is less than 1 micron.
4. dyeing and finishing technology according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that described migration inhibitor is flat Ma Su.
5. dyeing and finishing technology according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that the nanometer finishing agent of described Final finishing employing is by amino Silicone oil NSW, waterproofing agent NT-X604A, oil-proofing agent NT-X604B, anti-fouling agent NT-X603D, resin NT-X603E and composite catalyst NKS forms, and adds 2 grams of amido silicon oil NSW, 40 grams of waterproofing agent NT-X604A, oil-proofing agent NT-X604B 40 in every liter water Gram, 10 grams of 15 grams of 15 grams of anti-fouling agent NT-X603D, resin NT-X603E, composite catalyst NKS;Prepare and use glacial acetic acid carwash, Pad fabric with four liquid-proof preparing, be heated to 120-130 degree with steam, drying cylinder is dried 90 seconds.
6. dyeing and finishing technology according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that described color fixing agent is dialkylaminomethyl group propylene Ester quat polymeric dye fixative agent.
7. dyeing and finishing technology according to claim 1 is it is characterised in that described animal protein fiber is wool or silk; Described phytoprotein fiber is soybean azlon.
CN201610881054.2A 2016-09-30 2016-09-30 Clothing fabric dyeing and finishing process Pending CN106436269A (en)

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CN110241605A (en) * 2019-06-18 2019-09-17 福建七匹狼实业股份有限公司 A kind of mercerized wool fabric and its processing method
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