CN112111838B - Production process of antique-imitation retro elastic jean fabric - Google Patents
Production process of antique-imitation retro elastic jean fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN112111838B CN112111838B CN202010813342.0A CN202010813342A CN112111838B CN 112111838 B CN112111838 B CN 112111838B CN 202010813342 A CN202010813342 A CN 202010813342A CN 112111838 B CN112111838 B CN 112111838B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
- D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/04—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C21/00—Shrinking by compressing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C9/00—Singeing
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Abstract
The invention discloses a production process of an antique elastic jean fabric, which comprises the following steps: A1. doubling the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn to prepare a first yarn; the yarn count of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn, and the twist coefficient of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn; A2. carrying out size dyeing treatment on the first yarn; A3. weaving by taking the first yarns as warp yarns and the elastic yarns as weft yarns to obtain the elastic denim fabric; A4. carrying out loose washing water treatment on the elastic jean fabric: washing the elastic jean fabric in a natural state; complex and various washing water is not needed for multiple times, the working process is simplified, and the consumption of chemical reagents is reduced.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a production process of an antique elastic jean fabric.
Background
The jeans wear is a favorite garment, and in the production process of the jeans wear, washing water treatment, such as physical washing water and chemical washing water, is needed, and the jeans wear can have an antique style through the physical washing water (general washing, stone grinding and the like) and the chemical washing water (enzyme bleaching, oxygen bleaching, chlorine bleaching, manganese bleaching and the like). Wherein, when chemical washing water is carried out, the strong oxidizing property of the chemical agent destroys the dye on the clothing and the fiber structure in the yarn. Therefore, the washing process of the jeans wear needs to consume a large amount of chemicals, manpower and water resources, and waste liquid after washing needs to be treated by waste water, so that the cost is increased, and the environmental protection is more and more strict along with the development of the society, so that the washing water of the jeans wear has higher requirements.
The elastic fabric in the market at present is generally woven through a double-warp beam, the upper layer of the elastic fabric is woven through non-elastic dyed warp yarns, the lower layer of the elastic fabric is woven through elastic yarns and elastic weft yarns, the fabric has 360-degree elasticity, the manufactured jean fabric enables clothes to have the vintage or retro effect through multiple times of complex and various washing, a large amount of chemical reagents are consumed, particularly, a large amount of oxidizing drugs are needed in the washing retro style, and therefore the prior art needs to be improved.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the problems in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a production process of an antique elastic jean fabric, and aims to solve the problem that a large amount of chemical reagents are consumed due to the fact that after the existing antique elastic jean fabric is woven, multiple times of washing is needed to obtain the antique or retro effect.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a production process of an antique elastic jean fabric comprises the following steps:
A1. doubling the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn to prepare a first yarn; the yarn count of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn, and the twist coefficient of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn;
A2. carrying out size dyeing treatment on the first yarn;
A3. weaving by taking the first yarns as warp yarns and the elastic yarns as weft yarns to obtain the elastic denim fabric;
A4. carrying out loose washing water treatment on the elastic jean fabric: and performing washing treatment on the elastic jean fabric in a natural state.
In the production process of the antique elastic jean fabric, the yarn count of the inelastic yarn is more than 15S larger than that of the elastic yarn, and the twist coefficient of the inelastic yarn is more than 15% larger than that of the elastic yarn.
In some embodiments, the inelastic yarn has a yarn number of 25S to 40S and a twist multiplier of 4.5 to 6; the yarn number of the elastic yarn is 8S-21S, and the twist coefficient is 3.2-3.8.
In the production process of the antique elastic jean fabric, before the step A1, the production process further comprises the following steps:
A0. and modifying the elastic yarn to improve the dyeing performance of the elastic yarn.
In the production process of the antique elastic jean fabric, in the step A2, the size dyeing treatment comprises 1-2 boiling, steaming, dyeing, nitrogen treatment, washing for 1-3 times and sizing in sequence from front to back.
Further, during steam steaming, the first yarn is subjected to steam steaming in a steam box, the temperature of the steam box is 120-130 ℃, and the treatment time is 5-8 min.
Further, when the nitrogen treatment is carried out, the first yarn is subjected to the nitrogen treatment in a closed box, the volume of the nitrogen in the closed box accounts for 90-98%, the treatment time is 1-5 min, and the treatment temperature is 100-130 ℃.
In the production process of the antique elastic jean fabric, before the step A4, the production process further comprises the following steps:
A5. singeing the elastic jean fabric;
A6. and soaping the elastic jean fabric.
In the production process of the antique elastic jean fabric, the step A4 is followed by the following steps:
A7. carrying out setting treatment on the elastic jean fabric;
A8. and pre-shrinking the elastic jean fabric.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
according to the production process of the antique-imitation retro elastic jean fabric, the first yarn is formed by doubling the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn, the yarn count of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn, the twist coefficient of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn, and when the elastic jean fabric is subjected to loose washing, the shrinkage rates of the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn in the first yarn are different, so that warp yarns are stiff, and retro grains appear; meanwhile, as the absorption properties of the non-elastic yarns and the elastic yarns are different, the first yarns can show different depths during the size dyeing treatment, so that the cloth cover can have different depths, and the antique effect is obtained; compared with the prior art, only one-time loose type washing is needed, multiple times of complex and various washing is not needed, the work flow is simplified, and the consumption of chemical reagents is reduced.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a flow chart of the production process of the novel antique elastic jean fabric provided by the invention.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and effects of the present invention clearer and clearer, the present invention is further described in detail by the following examples. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention.
Referring to fig. 1, the production process of the antique elastic jean fabric provided by the invention comprises the following steps:
A1. doubling the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn to prepare a first yarn; the yarn count of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn, and the twist coefficient of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn;
A2. carrying out size dyeing treatment on the first yarn;
A3. weaving by taking the first yarns as warp yarns and the elastic yarns as weft yarns to obtain the elastic denim fabric;
A4. carrying out loose washing water treatment on the elastic jean fabric: the elastic jean fabric is subjected to washing treatment in a natural state (the natural state refers to a state when no external force is applied to the fabric).
The first yarn is formed by doubling the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn, the yarn count of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn, the twist coefficient of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn, and when the elastic jean fabric is subjected to loose washing, the shrinkage rates of the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn in the first yarn are different, so that warp yarns are stiff, and retro patterns appear; meanwhile, as the absorption properties of the non-elastic yarns and the elastic yarns are different, the first yarns can show different depths during the size dyeing treatment, so that the cloth cover can have different depths, and the antique effect is obtained; compared with the prior art, only one-time loose type washing is needed, multiple times of complex and various washing is not needed, the work flow is simplified, the consumption of chemical reagents is reduced, the cost is reduced, and the environmental protection is facilitated.
In some preferred embodiments, in step a1, the yarn count of the inelastic yarn is greater than the yarn count of the elastic yarn by 15S or more, and the twist multiplier of the inelastic yarn is greater than the twist multiplier of the elastic yarn by 15% or more. The elastic jean fabric can obtain a good antique effect in loose washing.
In the actual use, can make yarn tension uneven to the yarn that elasticity is big because tensile, can restrict the yarn that elasticity is big like this and use as the warp, especially during the warping, the slice warping is because warping the number is big, can make tension control uneven, the yarn is tensile and makes the yarn kick-back easily, consequently can make the yarn tension control uneven during the warping, it is not good to wind the effect on the whole warp beam, consequently adopt and twist with high no elasticity yarn of coefficient and twist with low elasticity yarn of coefficient to carry out the doubling, can make the elastic elongation that the elastic yarn can be restricted to a certain extent to the no elasticity yarn, consequently also can effectual control the tension uniformity of yarn, the yarn is relatively easy to be convoluteed on the beam of a loom after the warping.
Preferably, the yarn number of the non-elastic yarn is 25S-40S, and the twist coefficient is 4.5-6; the yarn number of the elastic yarn is 8S-21S, and the twist coefficient is 3.2-3.8.
Wherein, the non-elastic yarn is preferably cotton-containing non-elastic yarn, such as pure spinning yarn containing cotton fiber or blended yarn containing cotton fiber; the elastic yarn is preferably elastic yarn containing cotton fiber, and can be core-spun yarn or double-core-spun yarn; the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn can be doubled in the following way: the yarn is doubled on a doubling machine, the doubling speed is 300 r/min-600 r/min (within the speed range, the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn can be uniformly crossed and doubled), and after doubling, the yarn is twisted on a two-for-one twister, and the twisting twist is 300 twist/m-450 twist/m.
In some preferred embodiments, before step a1, the method further comprises the steps of:
A0. the elastic yarn is modified to improve the dyeing performance of the elastic yarn.
The elastic yarn is modified, so that the elastic yarn has better absorption performance and is easier to dye.
Wherein, for the elastic yarn containing cotton fiber, the process of modification treatment is as follows: padding the elastic yarn in finishing liquid, preferably three-padding and three-rolling, wherein the padding temperature is 60-65 ℃, the rolling retention is 95%, the finishing liquid comprises 5-15g/L of cationic modifier and 3g/L of caustic soda, and the cationic modifier is preferably: glycidyl methacrylate-quaternary ammonium salt monomer copolymers; baking at 105 deg.C for 1min-6 min; then washing in water at 55 ℃; and finally drying. Through the modification treatment, the cotton fiber can contain cations, and the indigo dye (the denim fabric needs to be dyed by the indigo dye) is a reductive dye and has negative charges when being reduced, so that the binding capacity of the fiber and the dye can be increased after modification, a firm ionic bond is formed, the dye is not easy to fall off, and the dye uptake rate of the dye can be effectively improved.
Further, in step a2, the size dyeing process includes 1-2 scouring, steaming, dyeing, nitrogen treating, washing water 1-3 times, and sizing, which are sequentially performed from front to back. The step a2 is carried out in a size dyeing combination machine; for the traditional elastic yarn, the dyeing difficulty on a sizing and dyeing combination machine is high, the yarn tension is difficult to control to be uniform due to the elasticity of the yarn, a plurality of yarn guide rollers are needed, and meanwhile, due to the special dyeing property of the indigo dye, the tension is not uniformly controlled, so that the yarn and the yarn are not stretched uniformly, the yarn dyeing is not uniform, the color difference is easy to appear, and the style of the jean fabric is finally influenced; in the production process, the inelastic yarns can limit the elastic extension of the elastic yarns to a certain degree, so that the tension uniformity of the yarns can be effectively controlled, the dyeing uniformity is ensured, the color difference is avoided, and the difficulty in dyeing by using a sizing and dyeing combination machine is greatly reduced.
Among these, it is preferable to use a penetrant (i.e., to add a penetrant to the scouring liquor) when scouring (of the first yarn). The penetrating agent is used, so that dyeing can be deeper in the next process of dyeing, and because the twisting coefficients of the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn are different, and the yarn counts are different, the cohesion tightness degree of fibers in the yarn is larger, the probability of dye molecule penetration inwards is increased in the next process of dyeing, and the yarn dyeing effect is improved.
Wherein, when the first yarn is steamed, the first yarn is steamed in a steam box, the temperature of the steam box is 120-130 ℃, and the processing time is 5-8 min. Through steam treatment, the crystallinity of the cotton fibers can be reduced, the amorphous areas of the fibers are increased, meanwhile, the bending of the cotton fibers is relatively reduced, the fibers become soft and smooth, and the static and dynamic friction coefficients of the surfaces of the fibers are reduced to different degrees; the microstructure of the cotton fiber is changed through the steam treatment, so that the dyeing depth of the subsequent process is enhanced, and meanwhile, the flooding is reduced. Preferably, the temperature of the steam box is 125-130 ℃, and the treatment time is 6-7 min.
Wherein when the first yarn is subjected to nitrogen treatment, the first yarn is subjected to nitrogen treatment in a closed box, the volume of the nitrogen in the closed box accounts for 90-98%, the treatment time is 1-5 min, and the treatment temperature is 100-130 ℃. In practical application, after the yarn is subjected to indigo dyeing, because the indigo dye is reduced into a leuco body, the leuco body is naturally oxidized into indigo in the air after being soaked, adsorbed and attached, but dye molecules enter the fiber for a certain time, if the dye molecules are directly oxidized in the air, the opportunity that the dye molecules permeate inwards is reduced, floating color is accumulated on the surface of the fiber, and the opportunity that the indigo dye molecules permeate inwards is blocked, so that after dyeing, an inert atmosphere is provided through nitrogen treatment, and the time that the indigo dye molecules permeate inwards can be prolonged; meanwhile, at the temperature of 100-130 ℃, the crystallinity and the polymerization degree of the cotton fiber can be reduced, the molecular movement rate of the indigo dye is accelerated, the dye uptake of the dye can be improved, the dyeing effect is deeper, and the flooding on the yarn is reduced. Preferably, the temperature of the steam box is 110-125 ℃, and the treatment time is 2-3 min.
When the first yarn is dyed, the dyeing tank is added with the indigo dye, the sodium hydrosulfite and the sodium hydroxide in the dyeing process, wherein the content of the indigo dye is 2.2-2.6 g/L, the content of the sodium hydrosulfite is 1.1-1.4 g/L, the content of the sodium hydroxide is 2.0-2.4 g/L, and the yarn is padded in the dyeing tank. The absorption performance of the non-elastic yarns is different from that of the elastic yarns, and the absorption performance of the elastic yarns is better due to modification, so that after dyeing, the first yarns can have different depth effects, the cloth surface can have different depth styles, and the color absorption effect of the yarns with high twist coefficients (namely the non-elastic yarns) is light.
The elastic yarn (i.e., the weft yarn) in step a3 may be, but is not limited to, a single core spun yarn, a double core spun yarn, and the like. The elastic jean fabric obtained by weaving can be but is not limited to a plain weave structure, a twill weave structure, a satin weave structure and the like.
In the step a4, when the elastic jean fabric is subjected to loose type washing water treatment, the fabric is not stretched or other acting forces are not applied, so that the elastic jean fabric is in a natural state, and the yarns shrink differently due to the different twisting coefficients and yarn counts of the inelastic yarns and the elastic yarns, so that the warp yarns are stiff, and a retro texture appears.
In some embodiments, step a4 is preceded by the steps of:
A5. singeing the elastic jean fabric;
A6. and (4) soaping the elastic jean fabric.
In step a5, the elastic denim fabric may be singed by a singeing method in the prior art, or the following singeing method may be adopted: singeing by using a singeing machine, wherein during singeing, the flame temperature is controlled to be 600-900 ℃, the singeing speed is 60-80 m/min, and the singeing frequency is one positive and one negative, namely, singeing is performed on the front side of the fabric once and singeing is performed on the back side of the fabric once. The elastic jean fabric is singed, so that fluff on the surface of the elastic jean fabric can be removed, and a smooth surface is obtained.
In step a6, the elastic denim fabric may be soaped by the soaping method in the prior art, or the following soaping method may be adopted: soaping the fabric in a rinsing bath, and adding a cleaning agent into the rinsing bath at the temperature of 50-60 ℃ for 3-5 min. The soaping treatment is carried out on the elastic jean fabric, so that the loose color on the elastic jean fabric can be removed.
In some embodiments, step a4 is followed by the step of:
A7. shaping the elastic jean fabric;
A8. and (4) performing preshrinking treatment on the elastic jean fabric.
In step a7, the elastic denim fabric may be singed by a setting treatment in the prior art, or the following setting treatment method may be adopted: setting the fabric on a setting machine at 140-170 deg.c and 20-40 m/min speed. The elastic property of the fabric can be controlled through shaping treatment, and meanwhile, the hand feeling of the fabric can be improved.
In step A8, the elastic jean fabric may be preshrunk by the preshrunk method in the prior art, or the following preshrunk methods may be adopted: pre-shrinking treatment is carried out by adopting a pre-shrinking machine, the vehicle speed is 20 m/min-50 m/min, the compression degree of the rubber blanket is 16% -20%, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 130 ℃ -150 ℃, and the temperature of the blanket drying cylinder is 130 ℃ -150 ℃. The quality and the dimensional stability of the fabric can be improved through the preshrinking treatment.
In conclusion, the production process of the antique elastic jean fabric does not need to go through complicated and diversified washing links, simplifies the working process, reduces the consumption of chemical reagents, reduces the cost and is beneficial to environmental protection; meanwhile, the problem that the yarn dyeing effect is influenced due to uneven tension control of the yarn with good elastic performance in the warping and size dyeing processes can be effectively solved.
It is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the examples described above, and that modifications and variations may be effected by persons skilled in the art in light of the above teachings, and that all such modifications and variations are within the scope of the invention.
Claims (8)
1. A production process of an antique elastic jean fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:
A1. doubling the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn to prepare a first yarn; the yarn count of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn, and the twist coefficient of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn;
A2. carrying out size dyeing treatment on the first yarn;
A3. weaving by taking the first yarns as warp yarns and the elastic yarns as weft yarns to obtain the elastic denim fabric;
A4. carrying out one-time loose type washing water treatment on the elastic jean fabric: washing the elastic jean fabric in a natural state;
the yarn count of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn by more than 15S, and the twist coefficient of the non-elastic yarn is larger than that of the elastic yarn by more than 15%.
2. The production process of the antique elastic jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein the yarn count of the non-elastic yarn is 25S-40S, and the twist factor is 4.5-6; the yarn number of the elastic yarn is 8S-21S, and the twist coefficient is 3.2-3.8.
3. The process for producing the antique elastic jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein before the step A1, the process further comprises the steps of:
A0. and modifying the elastic yarn to improve the dyeing performance of the elastic yarn.
4. The process for producing the vintage elastic jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step A2, the size dyeing treatment comprises boiling, steaming, dyeing, nitrogen treatment, washing for 1-3 times and sizing which are sequentially carried out from front to back.
5. The production process of the vintage elastic jean fabric according to claim 4, wherein the first yarn is steamed in a steam box at 120-130 ℃ for 5-8 min during steaming.
6. The production process of the antique elastic jean fabric according to claim 4, wherein during nitrogen treatment, the first yarns are subjected to nitrogen treatment in a closed box, the volume of the nitrogen in the closed box is 90-98%, the treatment time is 1-5 min, and the treatment temperature is 100-130 ℃.
7. The process for producing the antique elastic jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein before the step A4, the process further comprises the following steps:
A5. singeing the elastic jean fabric;
A6. and soaping the elastic jean fabric.
8. The process for producing the antique elastic jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein the step A4 is followed by the steps of:
A7. carrying out setting treatment on the elastic jean fabric;
A8. and pre-shrinking the elastic jean fabric.
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| CN105908544A (en) * | 2016-05-12 | 2016-08-31 | 江苏联发纺织股份有限公司 | Color yarn production method with camaieu effect |
| CN108315857A (en) * | 2018-04-13 | 2018-07-24 | 湖州新恩实业有限公司 | A kind of silk elastic force opens the method for weaving of lattice crepe shell fabric |
| CN110499562A (en) * | 2018-05-16 | 2019-11-26 | 浙江华孚色纺有限公司 | A kind of segmentation corrugation blended color spinning yarn and its production method |
| CN108977959A (en) * | 2018-08-03 | 2018-12-11 | 东丽酒伊织染（南通）有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of the heterochromatic cotton sense elastic force false twist composite yarn line of superelevation bullet and its production technology of heterochromatic cotton sense elastic fabric |
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