CN102936771B - High count mercerized single yarn and double faced mercerized silk and processing method thereof - Google Patents

High count mercerized single yarn and double faced mercerized silk and processing method thereof Download PDF

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CN102936771B
CN102936771B CN 201210450003 CN201210450003A CN102936771B CN 102936771 B CN102936771 B CN 102936771B CN 201210450003 CN201210450003 CN 201210450003 CN 201210450003 A CN201210450003 A CN 201210450003A CN 102936771 B CN102936771 B CN 102936771B
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mercerising
single thread
processing method
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CN102936771A (en
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朱国民
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Wuxi aozun Ecological Technology Co.,Ltd.
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Wuxi Natural Textile Industrial Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention relates to high count mercerized single yarn and double faced mercerized silk and a processing method thereof and belongs to the technical field of textiles. The method includes firstly producing mercerized fibers: subjecting the fibers to tension mercerized processing to obtain the mercerized fibers; secondly, performing spinning: spinning the mercerized fibers into high count mercerized single yarns; thirdly, performing fabric weaving: weaving the yarns to form double faced fabrics; fourthly, singeing the fabrics: singeing superfluous lousiness on the surfaces of the fabrics; fifthly, mercerizing the fabrics: subjecting the double faced fabrics to mercerization treatment; and sixthly, performing sizing to obtain the finished double faced mercerized silk. The double faced mercerized silk is a double mercerized product formed by weaving the high count mercerized single yarns into the double faced fabrics and then subjecting the double faced fabrics to fabric mercerization, wherein the single yarns are obtained by subjecting the fibers to tension mercerization and spinning. The mercerized single yarns are produced by using mercerized fibers and then weaved to form the double faced silk, so that characteristics of traditional double faced fabrics are kept, and the double faced mercerized silk is lustrous and good drapability and moisture absorption and sweat releasing performance and feels smooth.

Description

A kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread, two-sided mercerising silk fabric and processing method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of two-sided mercerising silk fabric and the processing method thereof of textile technology field, is a kind of fiber to be carried out the tension force mercerising specifically, is spun into single thread then and is made into two-sided cloth, and fabric carries out two-sided mariages light fabric and the processing method thereof of secondary mercerising again.
Background technology
Two-sided cloth is a kind of knitted cloth, the English interlock that cries, refer to an end kind fabric the same with the face structure of fabric, mainly be to be furnished with tangible difference with single face, the two sides structure difference of facecloth, the two sides structure of two-sided cloth can be the same or different, and can present different colours or style, for example the one side plain color, the another side stamp; Two-sided structure also is various, for example plain weave, jacquard weave, line transfer etc., and practicality is extensive, and this series products is also more on the market.
Two-sided cloth is generally the double-layer fabric that adopts knitting two-sided woven one-tenth to have independent ectonexine structure, adopts single thread to weave more.Two-sided cloth generally adopts a high single thread directly to adopt two-sided woven the making of principle of readjustment, restructuring, consolidation and improvement distance to form without mercerising, again by singe, operation processing such as mercerising makes.A high single thread refers generally to the above single thread of 68S/1, because its yarn count is very thin, brute force is low, is rarely used in weaving of single face fabric, otherwise grammes per square metre too gently, very thin, shrink and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY are very poor, can't be used for normal dress, are used for weaving of the principle of readjustment, restructuring, consolidation and improvement two-sided fabric of distance more.And because the brute force of a high single thread is low and twist height, can't carries out reeling and mercerising and handle, so do not occur all the time at the high single thread of mercerising field mercerising, just rest on the experimental study stage.
Earlier fiber is carried out the tension force mercerising among the present invention and respins and make a high single thread, and adopt the principle of readjustment, restructuring, consolidation and improvement distance two-sided wovenly cause two-sided cloth, adopt mercerizing range to carry out the secondary mercerising again and obtain a kind of two-sided mercerising silk fabric.It is careful that this two-sided mercerising silk fabric has, and lines is full, and the smooth exquisiteness of feel is soft sliding glutinous, comfortable ventilating, and the strong characteristics of sense of dangling have the distinctive jade-like stone profit of high-grade fabric gloss simultaneously, and good hygroscopicity is soft, the distinct advantages of affine skin.
Summary of the invention
The invention provides a kind of high single thread, two-sided mercerising silk fabric and processing method thereof, be to adopt the method for fiber tension mercerising to make the mercerising fiber fiber to make high Zhi Siguang single thread by spinning, adopt again and two-sidedly wovenly cause two-sided cloth to make the mercerising silk shell fabric by the secondary mercerising.The invention provides a kind of method of producing high Zhi Siguang single thread, successfully realize its application in two-sided pair of mercerized cloth simultaneously, obtain a kind of high-quality fabric.
In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, the invention provides following technical scheme:
A kind of processing method of high Zhi Siguang single thread, step is as follows:
A. the preparation of mercerising fiber: adopt the method for fiber tension mercerising that fiber is carried out the mercerising processing, make the mercerising fiber;
Wherein, the preparation process of mercerising fiber is as follows:
(1) fiber bar processed: fiber is made ribbon by the conventional spinning operation;
(2) be woven into the rope pigtail: many non-twist ribbons are woven into rope pigtail shape structure, for example three strands of pigtail shapes, four strands of pigtail shape hawsers etc. according to certain rules mutually;
(3) mercerising: the rope pigtail of ribbon is carried out the tension force mercerising;
(4) the rope pigtail moves back solution: the rope pigtail behind the mercerising is moved back solution become single ribbon;
B. the spinning of single thread: with mercerising fibre spinning Cheng Gaozhi mercerising single thread, namely number is higher than the mercerising single thread of 68S/1.
The ribbon that the rope pigtail moves back after the solution can be used for the spinning in road afterwards, makes yarn.
Preferably, can behind rope pigtail mercerising, dry it; Perhaps, baking step being placed on the rope pigtail moves back after the solution step.
Preferably, mercerising adopts liquid caustic soda tension force mercerising or liquefied ammonia tension force mercerising in the step (3).
More preferably, liquid caustic soda tension force mercerising for by caustic dip, apply tension force, squeeze alkali and washing step is finished mercerising, liquefied ammonia tension force mercerising for through preliminary drying, soak ammonia, apply tension force, the deamination operation finishes mercerising.
Further, liquid caustic soda tension force mercerising carries out at mercerizing range, liquid caustic soda concentration is 15~35 ° of B é, preferred 26~30 Baume degrees wherein, the liquid caustic soda temperature is 15~25 ℃, the mercerising caustic dip time is 120~180s, tensile elongation is 1~6%, 60~80 ℃ of hot water wash temperature, the hot water wash time is 40~60s, the room temperature washing time is 20~30s.
Further, liquefied ammonia tension force mercerising carries out at liquid ammonia mercerizer, and the liquefied ammonia temperature is-33.5~-36 ℃, and the liquid carrying rate of prebake is below 3%, and tensile stress is 1~8kg, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 10~30m/min, and soaking the ammonia time is 10~30s.
Among the present invention, the ribbon that is used for mercerising refer to spin combing, the regular carding card sliver that different operations form or rove, material comprises: natural alkali proof fiber, regenerated celulose fibre, and their blend fibre, for example cotton, fiber crops, bamboo fibre, blend fibres such as cotton/day silk, cotton/fiber crops; Also comprise cotton/wash blend fibre.
Ribbon can be dried sliver; Preferably, also can before being woven into the rope pigtail, carry out humidification to ribbon, to improve the intensity of ribbon, weave better.
The rope pigtail shape structure of ribbon braiding can have multiple, and the bar number that participates in braiding is decided according to the kind of braiding.Wherein preferably be woven into three strands of pigtail shapes with 3 one ribbons, or adopt 4 one ribbons to be woven into pigtail shape hawser.
Mercerising can adopt the continous mode mercerising, also can carry out earlier carrying out mercerising at skein mercerizer after ceeling becomes constant weight, and can comprise easy craft or mercerising frame mercerising etc.
The mercerising fiber that adopts this fiber mercerising method to make has the following advantages:
1, ribbon does not need twisting, has avoided the proterties of the back fiber of twisting to change, and the spinning in road is afterwards caused adverse influence.
2, carry out mercerising because ribbon is woven into rope pigtail shape structure, the pulling force that can bear is bigger, can improve the gloss of fiber to greatest extent.
3, the proterties of fiber itself does not change behind the mercerising, and the rope pigtail moves back the spinning that can be directly used in the road, back after the solution, has avoided operations such as secondary mixed cotton, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, has improved efficient and the production capacity of spinning, has saved time and loss.
4, because the fineness of fiber is less, make mercerization more abundant, the mercerising degree of every fiber reaches unanimity, and has guaranteed the dyeing uniformity of back road yarn.
5, through the increase of the ribbon behind the mercerising owing to unformed area, the dyeing dye-uptake is than not mercerising fiber raising 10%~20%.
As preferably, the high Zhi Siguang single thread that spinning makes can adopt different dyeing means to dye, for example the strand dyes, bobbin dyeing, section dye, hang dye, spray-painting or bobbin section are dyed etc.
The present invention also provides a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread, to make the mercerising single thread that number is higher than 68S/1 be high Zhi Siguang single thread by applying mercerising fiber that tension force makes, this high Zhi Siguang single thread mercerizing barium value is 120~145, the crystal region proportion descends 5%~15% in the molecular structure, the dyeing tinctorial yield promotes 10%~20%, and the brute force of yarn promotes 10%~20%.
Preferably, this high Zhi Siguang single thread mercerising fiber spinning of adopting the processing method of fiber mercerising of the present invention to make makes.
The present invention also provides a kind of processing method of high the two-sided mercerising silk fabric of single thread, and method is as follows:
A. the preparation of high Zhi Siguang single thread: adopt the processing method of foregoing high Zhi Siguang single thread to make;
B. face weave: high Zhi Siguang single yarn weaving becomes two-sided cloth, for example plain weave, jacquard weave, line transfer;
C. fabric is singed: the filoplume that burning-off fabric surface is unnecessary makes it bright and clean;
D. fabric mercerising: fabric is handled through mercerising, improves gloss and performance;
E. typing.
Preferably, high Zhi Siguang single thread is through the two-sided woven two-sided cloth that causes different structure.
Preferably, the mode that adopts single or double to singe is carried out fabric and is singed.
Preferably, the fabric mercerising can adopt the alkali lye mercerising in the steps d.
More preferably, the fabric mercerising adopts the alkali lye mercerising in the steps d, and liquid caustic soda concentration is 15~35 ° of B é, and the liquid caustic soda temperature is 15 ~ 25 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 10~30m/min, 60~90 ℃ of washing temperature.
Preferably, fabric adopts the mode of piece dyeing finishing or stamp to make it painted, gives color.
The present invention also provides a kind of high single thread two-sided mercerising silk fabric, the mercerising single thread that is higher than 68S/1 by number is that high Zhi Siguang single thread is made into, and this two-sided mercerising silk fabric is the double-layer fabric with independent ectonexine structure, its mercerizing barium value is 150~180, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY is that washing shrinkage is: directly to :-2~-0.5%, laterally :-3.5%~1.0%, to compare with the two-sided not mercerising of the single thread of identical material, identical fabric structure fabric, the dye-uptake value added is 15%~30%.
Preferably, this height props up the two-sided mariages light of single thread silk fabric and is made by the processing method that aforementioned height props up the two-sided mercerising silk fabric of single thread.
Preferably, adopt two-sided large circle machine to weave in the face weave.
In addition, dyeing fabric is selective operation, and the prerequisite of dyeing fabric is the yarn no dyeing; The mode of fabric stamp comprises multiple, for example: direct printing, DISCHARGE PRINTING, water slurry stamp, bonding agent printing, digit printing etc.
The present invention has following advantage and characteristics:
1, to compare feel more smooth for the two-sided mercerising silk fabric among the present invention and the two-sided cloth of traditional single thread, and powerful better under the same structure, size is more stable.
2, provide a kind of method for preparing high Zhi Siguang single thread, namely adopt bulk fibre tension force mercerising, optimum fiber pigtail mercerising processed wherein, and the mercerising fiber spinning become the above method of yarn of 68S/1, realized high Zhi Siguang single thread being extensive use of on two-sided fabric simultaneously.
3, fiber is because fineness is less, fluffy, and single fiber caustic dip or immersion liquid ammonia in mercerising is more abundant, thereby the degree of swelling is bigger, and mercerising is more abundant.
4, since behind the fiber mercerising yarn that spins need not to carry out again mercerising, so omitted reeling and rewinding operation, reduced work flow, improved throughput rate and efficient, attenuating the loss in reeling and the rewinding.
5, the yarn dyeing means that spin behind the fiber mercerising are abundanter, can adopt the bobbin dyeing of short liquor ratio to replace traditional hank dyeing, and the use amount of water consumption and dyeing significantly reduces, and has solved production cost.
The specific embodiment
Describe below in conjunction with the preferred embodiments of the present invention, should be appreciated that preferred embodiment described herein only is used for description and interpretation the present invention, and be not used in restriction the present invention.
Embodiment 1
The processing method of the high Zhi Siguang single thread of a kind of 75S/1, two-sided mercerising silk fabric comprises following procedure of processing:
1, fiber mercerising: adopt 3 non-twist Egyptian long-staple cotton slivers to be compiled into three strands of pigtails, ceeling becomes 500g, and be immersed in and carry out mercerising in the 15 Baume degrees caustic soda and handle, wherein the liquid caustic soda temperature is 25 ℃, the mercerising caustic dip time is 180s, tensile elongation is 6%, 60 ℃ of hot water wash temperature, the hot water wash time is 40s, the room temperature washing time is 20s, make mercerising cordage pigtail, and move back solution and become single ribbon.
2, spinning: the mercerising ribbon makes the high Zhi Siguang single thread of 75S/1 through drafting, rove, spun yarn and winder.
3, weave: be woven into two-sided cloth at the two-sided large circle machine of 40 pins.
4, fabric is singed: adopt the two-sided burning-off cloth cover fine hair of singing at knitted cloth fabric gassing frame.
5, fabric mercerising: at open width liquid caustic soda mercerizing range mercerising, liquid caustic soda concentration is 15 Baume degrees, and the liquid caustic soda temperature is 15 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 10m/min, and the hot water wash temperature is 60 ℃.
6, dyeing fabric: the two-sided cloth grey cloth behind the following machine boiled float, dye and dry processing.
7, typing makes the two-sided mercerising silk fabric of 75S/1.
With 75S/1 mercerising single thread and two-sided mercerising silk fabric, with the 75S/1 routine yarn of the same material of employing and the correlated performance index contrast of adopting the two-sided monofilament light of the common 75S/1 fabric of same fabric mercerization, the result is shown in table 1-2:
Table 1
Figure 47394DEST_PATH_IMAGE001
Table 2
Figure 345652DEST_PATH_IMAGE002
As can be known from the above table, the performance indications of 75S/1 mercerising single thread are very outstanding, the degree of depth of dyeing is apparently higher than the yarn of routine, and the mercerizing barium value of two-sided mercerising silk fabric is higher, and mercerising is more abundant, thereby gloss obviously is better than two-sided monofilament light silk fabric, wearability is also comparatively superior simultaneously, brute force and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY are higher, are more conducive to dress, and be also more comfortable.
Embodiment 2
The processing method of a kind of 85S/1 mercerising single thread, duplex pringing mercerising silk fabric comprises following procedure of processing:
1, fiber mercerising: adopt 4 non-twist Egyptian long-staple cotton slivers to be compiled into four strands of pigtail shape hawsers, adopt liquefied ammonia continuous yarn ray machine to carry out mercerising, wherein the liquefied ammonia temperature of liquid ammonia mercerization is-33.5 ℃, the liquid carrying rate of prebake is 3%, tensile stress is 8kg, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 10m/min, and soaking the ammonia time is 30s, make mercerising cordage pigtail, and move back solution and become single ribbon.
2, spinning: the mercerising ribbon makes 85S/1 mercerising single thread through drafting rove, spun yarn and winder.
3, weave: 85S/1 is woven into two-sided cloth at the two-sided large circle machine of 40 pins.
4, fabric is singed: the fine hair on the method burning-off surface that the employing single face is singed.
5, fabric mercerising: at open width mercerizing range mercerising, alkali concn is 35 Baume degrees, and alkali liquid temperature is 25 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 20m/min, and the hot water wash temperature is 75 ℃.
6, dyeing fabric: the dyed one-tenth white of fabric.
7, fabric stamp: white is done the end and is adopted the mode of active direct printing to stamp different decorative patterns on the two sides.
8, typing.
With 85S/1 mercerising single thread and two-sided mercerising silk fabric thereof, with the 85S/1 routine yarn of employing material and the correlated performance index contrast of adopting the two-sided monofilament light of the common 85S/1 fabric of same fabric mercerization, the result is shown in table 3-4:
Table 3
Figure 732771DEST_PATH_IMAGE003
Table 4
Figure 102572DEST_PATH_IMAGE004
As can be known from the above table, every superior performance of 85S/1 mercerising single thread, and the mercerizing barium value of two-sided mercerising silk fabric is apparently higher than two-sided monofilament light fabric, the amplitude that dye-uptake increases is higher than two-sided monofilament light fabric, and gloss is better, and the degree of orientation is higher, powerful outstanding, the wearability of fabric is also higher simultaneously, more is conducive to dress, and comfortableness is also comparatively superior.
Embodiment 3
The processing method of a kind of 68S/1 flax silk light single thread yarn, two-sided flax silk light silk fabric comprises following procedure of processing:
1, fiber mercerising: adopt 3 non-twist flax fibre bars to be compiled into three strands of pigtails, ceeling becomes 400g, and be immersed in and carry out mercerising in the 35 Baume degrees caustic soda and handle, wherein the liquid caustic soda temperature is 15 ℃, the mercerising caustic dip time is 120s, tensile elongation is 1%, 80 ℃ of hot water wash temperature, the hot water wash time is 60s, the room temperature washing time is 30s, make mercerising cordage pigtail, and move back solution and become single ribbon.
2, spinning: the mercerising ribbon makes 68S/1 mercerising single thread through drafting rove, spun yarn and winder.
3, weave: 68S/1 is woven into two-sided cloth at the two-sided large circle machine of 32 pins.
4, fabric is singed: the fine hair that adopts two-sided method burning-off surface of singing.
5, fabric mercerising: at open width mercerizing range mercerising, alkali concn is 25 Baume degrees, and alkali liquid temperature is 20 ℃, and washing temperature is 90 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 30m/min.
6, dyeing fabric: the dyed one-tenth color of fabric.
7, typing.
With 68S/1 flax silk light single thread and two-sided mercerising silk fabric thereof, with the 68S/1 routine yarn of employing material and the correlated performance index contrast of adopting the two-sided monofilament light of the common 68S/1 pitted skin material of same fabric mercerization, the result is shown in table 5-6:
Table 5
Figure 681583DEST_PATH_IMAGE005
Table 6
As can be known from the above table, the performance of 68S/1 mercerising fiber crops single thread is outstanding, every index all is better than common ramie yarn, and the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of the two-sided mercerising silk fabric of 68S/1, bursting strength are also better outstanding, and wearability aspect two-sided monofilament light pitted skin material also is inferior to two-sided mercerising silk fabric.
Embodiment 4
The processing method of a kind of 70S/1 days silk/cotton (50/50) mercerising single thread yarns, two-sided day/cotton (50/50) mercerising silk fabric comprises following procedure of processing:
1, fiber mercerising: adopt 4 non-twist day silks/cotton (50/50) blend fibre bar to be compiled into 4 strands of pigtail shape hawsers, ceeling becomes 600g, and be immersed in and carry out mercerising in the 25 Baume degrees caustic soda and handle, wherein the liquid caustic soda temperature is 20 ℃, the mercerising caustic dip time is 140s, tensile elongation is 3%, 70 ℃ of hot water wash temperature, the hot water wash time is 50s, the room temperature washing time is 25s, make mercerising cordage pigtail, and move back solution and become single ribbon.
2, spinning: the mercerising ribbon makes 70S/1 mercerising single thread through drafting rove, spun yarn and winder.
3, weave: 70S/1 is woven into two-sided cloth at the two-sided large circle machine of 36 pins.
4, fabric is singed: the fine hair that adopts two-sided method burning-off surface of singing.
5, fabric mercerising: at open width mercerizing range mercerising, alkali concn is 25 Baume degrees, and alkali liquid temperature is 22 ℃, and washing temperature is 70 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 20m/min.
6, dyeing fabric: the dyed one-tenth color of fabric.
7, typing.
With 70S/1 days silk/cotton (50/50) mercerising single thread and two-sided mercerising silk fabric thereof, with the 70S/1 routine yarn of employing material and the correlated performance index contrast of adopting the two-sided monofilament light of common 70S/1 sky silk/cotton (50/50) fabric of same fabric mercerization, the result is shown in table 7-8:
Table 7
Figure 87474DEST_PATH_IMAGE007
Table 8
As can be known from the above table, every performance of 70S/1 days silk/cotton (50/50) mercerising single thread is outstanding, and the mercerizing barium value of two-sided mercerising silk fabric is apparently higher than two-sided monofilament light fabric, the amplitude that dye-uptake increases is higher than two-sided monofilament light fabric, gloss is better, and is powerful outstanding, and the wearability of fabric is also higher simultaneously, more be conducive to dress, comfortableness is also comparatively superior.
Embodiment 5
A kind of 68S/1 cotton is washed the processing method that (70/30) mercerising single thread yarn, two-sided cotton are washed (70/30) mercerising silk fabric, comprises following procedure of processing:
1, fiber mercerising: adopt 3 non-twist Egyptian long-staple cotton slivers to be compiled into three strands of pigtails, adopt liquefied ammonia continuous yarn ray machine to carry out mercerising, wherein the liquefied ammonia temperature of liquid ammonia mercerization is-36 ℃, the liquid carrying rate of prebake is 1%, tensile stress is 1kg, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 30m/min, and soaking the ammonia time is 10s, make mercerising cordage pigtail, and move back solution and become single ribbon.
2, spinning: mercerized cotton ribbon and polyster fibre bar make the 68S/1 mercerized cotton in the 70:30 ratio through drafting, rove, spun yarn, winder and wash single thread.
3, weave: 68S/1 is woven into two-sided cloth at the two-sided large circle machine of 34 pins.
4, fabric is singed: the fine hair on the method burning-off surface that the employing single face is singed.
5, fabric mercerising: at open width mercerizing range mercerising, alkali concn is 30 Baume degrees, and alkali liquid temperature is 20 ℃, and washing temperature is 80 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 25m/min.
6, dyeing fabric: the dyed one-tenth color of fabric.
7, typing.
The 68S/1 cotton is washed (70/30) mercerising single thread and two-sided mercerising silk fabric thereof, with the conventional yarn of the 68S/1 that adopts material and the correlated performance index contrast of adopting the two-sided single mercerized cotton of common 68S/1 of same fabric mercerization to wash (70/30) fabric, the result is shown in table 9-10:
Table 9
Figure 209331DEST_PATH_IMAGE009
Table 10
As can be known from the above table, it is outstanding that the 68S/1 cotton is washed every performance of (70/30) mercerising single thread, and the mercerizing barium value of two-sided mercerising silk fabric is apparently higher than two-sided monofilament light fabric, the amplitude that dye-uptake increases is higher than two-sided monofilament light fabric, gloss is better, and is powerful outstanding, and the wearability of fabric is also higher simultaneously, more be conducive to dress, comfortableness is also comparatively superior.
It should be noted that at last: the above only is the preferred embodiments of the present invention, be not limited to the present invention, although with reference to previous embodiment the present invention is had been described in detail, for a person skilled in the art, it still can be made amendment to the technical scheme that aforementioned each embodiment puts down in writing, and perhaps part technical characterictic wherein is equal to replacement.Within the spirit and principles in the present invention all, any modification of doing, be equal to replacement, improvement etc., all should be included within protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (21)

1. the processing method of a high Zhi Siguang single thread is characterized in that, step is as follows:
A. the preparation of mercerising fiber: adopt the method for fiber tension mercerising that fiber is carried out the mercerising processing, make the mercerising fiber;
Wherein, the preparation process of mercerising fiber is as follows:
(1) fiber bar processed: fiber is made ribbon by the conventional spinning operation;
(2) be woven into the rope pigtail: many non-twist ribbons are woven into rope pigtail shape structure according to certain rules mutually;
(3) mercerising: the rope pigtail of ribbon is carried out the tension force mercerising;
(4) the rope pigtail moves back solution: the rope pigtail behind the mercerising is moved back solution become single ribbon;
B. the spinning of single thread: with mercerising fibre spinning Cheng Gaozhi mercerising single thread, namely number is higher than the mercerising single thread of 68S/1.
2. according to the processing method of the described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread of claim 1, it is characterized in that: described rope pigtail shape structure is woven into three strands of pigtail shapes for adopting 3 one ribbons, or adopts 4 one ribbons to be woven into pigtail shape hawser.
3. according to the processing method of claim 1 or 2 described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread, it is characterized in that: the kind of fiber comprises natural alkali proof fiber, regenerated celulose fibre, and their blend fibre; Or the kind of fiber for cotton/wash blend fibre.
4. according to the processing method of the described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread of claim 3, it is characterized in that: described fiber is cotton fiber, flax fibre, bamboo fibre, cotton/tencel blended fiber, cotton/hemp blended fiber.
5. according to the processing method of claim 1 or 2 or 4 described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread, it is characterized in that: mercerising adopts liquid caustic soda tension force mercerising or liquefied ammonia tension force mercerising in the step (3).
6. according to the processing method of the described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread of claim 3, it is characterized in that: mercerising adopts liquid caustic soda tension force mercerising or liquefied ammonia tension force mercerising in the step (3).
7. according to the processing method of the described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread of claim 6, it is characterized in that: described liquid caustic soda tension force mercerising on mercerizing range by caustic dip, apply tension force, squeeze alkali and washing step is finished mercerising.
8. according to the processing method of the described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread of claim 6, it is characterized in that: described liquefied ammonia tension force mercerising on liquid ammonia mercerizer through preliminary drying, soak ammonia, apply tension force, the deamination operation finishes mercerising.
9. according to the processing method of the described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread of claim 7, it is characterized in that: in the liquid caustic soda tension force mercerising, liquid caustic soda concentration is 15~35 ° of B é, the liquid caustic soda temperature is 15~25 ℃, the mercerising caustic dip time is 120~180s, and tensile elongation is 1~6%, 60~80 ℃ of hot water wash temperature, the hot water wash time is 40~60s, and the room temperature washing time is 20~30s.
10. according to the processing method of the described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread of claim 9, it is characterized in that: described liquid caustic soda concentration is 26~30 Baume degrees.
11. the processing method according to the described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread of claim 6 is characterized in that: in the liquefied ammonia tension force mercerising, the liquefied ammonia temperature is-33.5~-36 ℃, the liquid carrying rate of prebake is below 3%, tensile stress is 1~8kg, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 10~30m/min, and soaking the ammonia time is 10~30s.
12. the processing method according to one of claim 1 or 2 or 4 or 6 to 11 described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread is characterized in that: high Zhi Siguang single thread can adopt different dyeing means to dye.
13. the processing method according to the described a kind of high Zhi Siguang single thread of claim 12 is characterized in that: described dyeing means for strand is dyed, bobbin dyeing, section dye, hang dye, spray-painting or bobbin section dye.
14. one kind high Zhi Siguang single thread, it is characterized in that: adopting the mercerising fiber that makes as step a in the described processing method of one of claim 1-11 to make the single thread that number is higher than 68S/1 is high Zhi Siguang single thread, this high Zhi Siguang single thread mercerizing barium value is 120~145, the crystal region proportion descends 5%~15% in the molecular structure, the dyeing tinctorial yield promotes 10%~20%, and the brute force of single thread promotes 10%~20%.
15. the processing method of one kind high the two-sided mercerising silk fabric of single thread is characterized in that method is as follows:
A. the preparation of high Zhi Siguang single thread: adopt the processing method of one of claim 1-13 to make;
B. face weave: high Zhi Siguang single yarn weaving becomes two-sided cloth;
C. fabric mercerising, fabric is handled through mercerising, improves gloss and performance;
D. typing.
16. the processing method of a kind of high two-sided mercerising silk fabric of single thread according to claim 15 is characterized in that: among the step c, the fabric mercerising adopts the alkali lye mercerising.
17. the processing method of a kind of high two-sided mercerising silk fabric of single thread according to claim 16 is characterized in that: liquid caustic soda concentration is 15~35 ° of B é, and the liquid caustic soda temperature is 15 ~ 25 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 10~30m/min, 60~90 ℃ of washing temperature.
18. the processing method of a kind of high two-sided mercerising silk fabric of single thread according to claim 15 is characterized in that: the face weave mode is plain weave, jacquard weave, line transfer.
19. the processing method according to described a kind of high the two-sided mercerising silk fabric of single thread of one of claim 15-18 is characterized in that: carry out fabric before the fabric mercerising step and singe, the filoplume that burning-off fabric surface is unnecessary.
20. the processing method according to described a kind of high the two-sided mercerising silk fabric of single thread of one of claim 15-18 is characterized in that: fabric adopts the mode of piece dyeing finishing or stamp to make it painted, gives color.
21. two-sided mercerising silk fabric of high single thread, it is characterized in that: adopt to make as the described processing method of one of claim 15-20, the single thread that is higher than 68S/1 by number is that high Zhi Siguang single thread is made into, and this two-sided mercerising silk fabric is the double-layer fabric with independent ectonexine structure, its mercerizing barium value is 150~180, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY is that washing shrinkage is: directly to :-2~-0.5%, laterally :-3.5%~1.0%, compare with the two-sided not mercerising of the single thread of identical material, identical fabric structure fabric, the dye-uptake value added is 15%~30%.
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