CN105908544A

CN105908544A - Color yarn production method with camaieu effect

Info

Publication number: CN105908544A
Application number: CN201610311355.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 姚金龙; 袁久刚; 孙月玲; 徐小评; 钱晓红; 杨正华; 向中林
Original assignee: JIANGSU LIANFA TEXTILE CO Ltd
Current assignee: JIANGSU LIANFA TEXTILE CO Ltd
Priority date: 2016-05-12
Filing date: 2016-05-12
Publication date: 2016-08-31
Also published as: WO2017193585A1

Abstract

The invention provides a color yarn production method with a camaieu effect, and relates to the technical field of yarn-dyed cloth production. The production method mainly comprises the processes of pretreatment, slashing and dyeing. A color separation agent is added into high-gelatinization starch slurry used by slashing; after slurry mixing and sizing are performed according to a certain process, the color separation agent can be spread on the warp yarn surface; when active, indigo or reducing dye is used for dyeing, a covering region can block dye dyeing; at the later period, amylase is used for desizing treatment, and then, color yarns with the camaieu effect can be obtained; when the color yarns are used for weaving, the hazy flower gray effect of a fabric can be realized.

Description

A kind of dyed yarn production method with camaieu effect

Technical field

The present invention relates to yarn-dyed fabric production technical field, be specifically related to the production technology with the dyed yarn of camaieu effect.

Background technology

The distinctive fantasy dim effect of pattern gray yarn makes its added value higher, is typically used for making high-grade fabric.Its production method has multiple, but great majority are to use blending to obtain.Such as: use colored fibre and essential color fiber to carry out blending, obtain spending ash effect such as " palace " form；Can also use twisting machine that one basic dyed yarn and a dyed yarn are plied to line, the fabric being made into this line also can obtain spending ash effect.But owing to dyed yarn/fiber and beyber yarn/fibre spinnable character difference are very big, and the more difficult control of the depth of Lycoperdon polymorphum Vitt so that it is relatively big that difficulty is spun in the examination of this yarn, the strictest to the management such as technique, equipment, operation and prescription.

In recent years, in order to solve this problem, part producer is had to utilize the difference of fiber dyeing performance, when spinning, fiber different for two kinds of dyeabilities is carried out blending, only one of which fiber is dyeed after woven into fabric, have also been obtained certain " spending ash " effect, but to there is staining between two kinds of components of fiber serious for this type of fabric, slightly control during dyeing improper will cause fiber contrast do not highlight, ultimately result in " spending ash " poor effect.

Summary of the invention

The invention aims to overcome above prior art defect, propose a kind of dyed yarn production method with camaieu effect.

Technical solution of the present invention comprises the following steps:

1) pre-treatment: to raw yarn that cellulose is main material through kiering, bleaching or mercerization finish；

2) sizing: mixed with colour splitting agent by high gelatinized starch and size mixing, carries out starching to the raw yarn through pre-treatment after obtaining slurry, finally gives the dressed warp that the rate of sizing is 4～18%；

3) dyeing: dressed warp is dyeed by any one being respectively adopted in reactive dye, bipseudoindoxyl dye or reducing dye；

4) post processing: use any one method in amylase desizing or alkali desizing that yarn is carried out desizing.

The present invention utilizes the colour splitting agent blocking performance to dyestuff, utilizes and evenly spreads to, in high gelatinized starch slurry, be applied to yam surface by sizing technique by colour splitting agent with high gelatinized starch.So they just can be with uniformly dispersing in yam surface, when dyeing, its region covered will form white macula or the shallower transitional region that dyes because of blocking, removes colour splitting agent through desizing flow process again, thus just produce deep mixed " spending ash " effect on yarn after dyeing.

Advantages of the present invention and effect: control to there is shade difficulty when reducing tradition pattern gray yarn spinning, it is big that difficulty is spun in examination, the problem the tightest to the management such as technique, equipment, operation and prescription, by applying to have in yarn sizing technique, the colour splitting agent of blocking ability realizes cellulose family yarn to the present invention spends ash effect.The colour splitting agent used is a kind of nitrogen-containing compound, has applying convenient, strong covering power, and the advantage easily removed.During starching, colour splitting agent can be combined closely with warp thread by high gelatinized starch, being uniformly dispersed in warp yam surface, these colour splitting agents spread just can stop the dyestuff upper dye to its overlay area when yarn dyeing, forms deep mixed Color on an one thread.Yarn after dyeing, directly desizing can obtain pattern gray yarn, it is also possible to directly utilize weaving, after having weaved again desizing can manifest spend ash effect.

Raw yarn material selection range of the present invention is wide, and described raw yarn is any one in cotton, viscose glue, tencel or fiber crops.Use these materials can obtain good result.

Described step 2) in, in described slurry, colour splitting agent accounts for the 1～30% of slurry gross mass.In this ratio interval, deep mixed " spending ash " effectiveness comparison obtained because of its blocking is obvious.

Described step 2) in, described colour splitting agent is 18-amine. polyoxyethylene ether AC-1860 or De Sida Sera Fast XP903.These materials are all the products having been commercialized application, stable performance, convenient production, are beneficial to reduce production cost.

Described step 2) in, temperature when sizing mixing is 90～130 DEG C.At a temperature of Gai, starch and colour splitting agent can be made to spread more evenly across, gelatinizing, the mixed slurry mobility of production is preferable, and adhesion is higher, can be evenly distributed in yam surface by enough for colour splitting agent, contributes to obtaining deep mixed uniform " spending ash " effect.

Described step 2) in, sizing temperature is 50～90 DEG C.Under this sizing temperature, mixed slurry mobility is preferable, and adhesion is higher, can be evenly distributed in yam surface by enough for colour splitting agent, contributes to obtaining deep mixed uniform " spending ash " effect.

In described step 3), the kind of dyes that described dyeing uses is any one in reactive dye, bipseudoindoxyl dye or reducing dye.The employing of reactive dye and reducing dye with the Color Range of extreme enrichment pattern gray yarn, and can make its colorant match difficulty be substantially reduced.

Detailed description of the invention

Embodiment 1:

Textile raw yarn, after the pre-treatment such as kiering and mercerising, carries out sizing after warping.Its technique is as follows: adds colour splitting agent (main component De Sida Sera Fast XP903) according to the mass ratio of slurry total amount 20%, and sizes mixing at 90 DEG C 10 seconds, in 50 DEG C of starchings after mixing, and the final warp thread obtaining the rate of sizing 4%.

Then use active red B dyestuff that warp thread is dyeed, use amylase that it is carried out biological desizing after completing and i.e. can get the deep mixed dyed yarn with Red Flowers ash effect.

Embodiment 2:

Textile raw yarn is after the pre-treatment such as kiering and bleaching, sizing is carried out after warping, its technique is as follows: add colour splitting agent (main component 18-amine. polyoxyethylene ether AC-1860) according to the mass ratio of slurry total amount 30%, and size mixing at 130 DEG C 5 seconds, in 90 DEG C of starchings after mixing, the final warp thread obtaining the rate of sizing 18%.

Then use Vat Golden Yellow GK that it is dyeed, after completing, use alkali desizing to carry out processing i.e. can get and deep mixed have golden yellow and spend the dyed yarn of ash effect.

Embodiment 3:

Textile raw yarn is after the pre-treatments such as kiering, bleaching and mercerising, sizing is carried out after warping, its technique is as follows: add colour splitting agent (main component De Sida Sera Fast XP903) according to the mass ratio of slurry total amount 10%, and size mixing at 100 DEG C 10 seconds, in 80 DEG C of starchings after mixing, the final warp thread obtaining the rate of sizing 11%.

Then use and indigo it is dyeed, after completing, use alkali desizing to carry out processing i.e. can get and deep mixed have indigo and spend the dyed yarn of ash effect.

Embodiment 4:

Textile raw yarn is after the pre-treatments such as kiering, bleaching and mercerising, sizing is carried out after warping, its technique is as follows: add colour splitting agent (main component 18-amine. polyoxyethylene ether AC-1860) according to the mass ratio of slurry total amount 1%), and size mixing at 100 DEG C 10 seconds, in 80 DEG C of starchings after mixing, the final warp thread obtaining the rate of sizing 11%.

Then use and indigo it is dyeed, use amylase desizing i.e. to can get after completing and deep mixed there is indigo spend the dyed yarn of ash effect.

It addition, textile raw yarn can use viscose glue, fiber crops in above example, or tencel substitutes, and can reach same effect.

The De Sida Sera Fast XP903 used in the present invention is shown in De Sida company official website: information disclosed in WWW.DyStar.com.

Two, application:

Example 4 obtain deep mixed have indigo spend ash effect dressed warp weave according to common process with washing cotton wrapped weft yarn, after obtaining grey cloth, use and indigo it is carried out continuous knot dyeing, use amylase that it is carried out biological desizing afterwards, then through singing, shape and obtaining the deep mixed indigo imitation jean with strip effect of " spending ash " after preshrunk.

The dressed warp spending ash effect embodiment 1,2 or 3 obtained is weaved according to common process with washing cotton wrapped weft yarn, after obtaining grey cloth, again through continuous knot dyeing, use amylase that it is carried out biological desizing afterwards, then through singing, shape and obtaining the deep mixed colored Lycoperdon polymorphum Vitt imitation jean with strip effect of " spending ash " after preshrunk.

Claims

1. a dyed yarn production method with camaieu effect, it is characterised in that comprise the following steps:

3) dyeing: dressed warp is dyeed by any one being respectively adopted in reactive dye, bipseudoindoxyl dye or coating；

Production method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that in described step 1), described with raw yarn that cellulose is main material for any one in cotton, viscose glue, tencel or fiber crops.

Production method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that described step 2) in, in described slurry, colour splitting agent accounts for the 1～30% of slurry gross mass.

Production method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that described step 2) in, described colour splitting agent is 18-amine. polyoxyethylene ether AC-1860 or any one in De Sida Sera Fast XP903.

5. according to production method described in claim 1 or 3 or 4, it is characterised in that described step 2) in, temperature when sizing mixing is 90～130 DEG C.

Production method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that described step 2) in, sizing temperature is 50～90 DEG C.