JP2022519847A - Denim fabric and its use - Google Patents

Denim fabric and its use Download PDF

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JP2022519847A
JP2022519847A JP2021545708A JP2021545708A JP2022519847A JP 2022519847 A JP2022519847 A JP 2022519847A JP 2021545708 A JP2021545708 A JP 2021545708A JP 2021545708 A JP2021545708 A JP 2021545708A JP 2022519847 A JP2022519847 A JP 2022519847A
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fabric
yarn
denim
dyeing
thread
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ピウ モク、ワイ
ファン チャン、チュン
ワイ モク、クォン
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レンチング アクチエンゲゼルシャフト
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Abstract

本発明は、カチオン性改質剤で改質されたセルロース系繊維を含む第１の糸と、カチオン性改質剤で改質されていないセルロース系繊維を含む第２の糸と、から少なくともなる生地、及びデニム外観を得るためのこの生地の使用に関する。【選択図】図２The present invention comprises at least a first yarn containing cellulosic fibers modified with a cationic modifier and a second yarn containing cellulosic fibers not modified with a cationic modifier. With respect to the fabric and the use of this fabric to obtain a denim appearance. [Selection diagram] Fig. 2

Description

本発明は、少なくとも、カチオン性改質剤で改質されたセルロース系繊維を含む第１の糸と、カチオン性改質剤で改質されていないセルロース系繊維を含む第２の糸と、からなる生地（fabric）、及びデニムの外観を得るためのこの生地の使用に関する。 The present invention comprises at least a first yarn containing cellulosic fibers modified with a cationic modifier and a second yarn containing cellulosic fibers not modified with a cationic modifier. With respect to fabric, and the use of this fabric to obtain the appearance of denim.

デニムは、着心地がよく、ファッショナブルで、耐久性に優れたカジュアルな繊維生地（textile fabric）の一種であり、あらゆる年齢層及びあらゆる国で人気がある。その典型的でユニークな外観、特にウォッシュアウト効果及び耐久性のある生地としての評判により、デニムで作られた衣服はカルトアイテムとしての地位を確立している。 Denim is a type of comfortable, fashionable and durable casual textile fabric that is popular in all age groups and countries. Due to its typical and unique appearance, especially its washout effect and reputation as a durable fabric, denim garments have established themselves as cult items.

そのために必要なのが、インディゴでの染色及び生地の構造であり、衣服における生地の外表面は青色であり、内表面は白色であるものが主流となっている。 What is needed for this is dyeing with indigo and the structure of the fabric, and the outer surface of the fabric in clothing is blue and the inner surface is white.

伝統的なデニムは、縦糸（warp）と横糸（weft）を交差させて織ることで、色落ちする特徴を持つ生地構造になっており、通常は硬くて重い、高密度の生地である。生地の構造は、３／１又は２／１のツイルと１／１のシャンブレーが一般的である。図１に代表的な生地の構造を示す。 Traditional denim has a fabric structure that has the characteristic of fading by weaving warp and weft crossed, and is usually a hard, heavy, high-density fabric. The structure of the dough is generally 3/1 or 2/1 twill and 1/1 chambray. FIG. 1 shows a typical fabric structure.

外側が顕著に着色されており、内側が顕著に白いという典型的なデニムの外観を得るためには、色糸と白糸を使って織らなければならない。通常、色糸は縦糸（warp yarn）として、白糸は横糸（weft yarn）として使用される。デニムを織る際には、材料である着色された縦糸６０％が衣類の外側に、白色の横糸４０％が内側にくるように織られる。これは、つまり、少なくとも２種類の糸をストックしておかなければならないことを意味している。また、様々に着色された生地が必要な場合は、目的の生地の色に染めた糸をさらにストックしておかなければならない。糸の染色は一般的に特殊な染色装置を用いて行われるため、例えば生地の染色又は後染め染色（piece dyeing）に比べてコストがかかる。さらに、デニム様染色に適した色は、非常に限られている。 To get the typical denim look, with the outside being significantly colored and the inside being significantly white, it must be woven using colored and white threads. Usually, colored yarn is used as warp yarn and white yarn is used as weft yarn. When weaving denim, 60% of the colored warp and weft, which is the material, is woven on the outside of the garment, and 40% of the white weft is on the inside. This means that at least two types of yarn must be stocked. In addition, if various colored fabrics are required, threads dyed in the desired fabric color must be further stocked. Since dyeing of yarn is generally performed using a special dyeing device, it is more costly than, for example, dyeing of fabric or piece dyeing. Moreover, the colors suitable for denim-like dyeing are very limited.

伝統的には、デニムの染色にはインディゴ染料（indigo dyestuff）が一般的に使われる。インディゴ顔料は水に溶けない建染め染料（vat dye）の一種である。インディゴ顔料はセルロース系繊維に対して親和性を有しない。水酸化ナトリウム及び亜硫酸ナトリウム等の化学薬品を大量に使用して、インディゴを繊維に親和性のあるロイコ型の一種である水溶性形態に変換する必要がある。１ｋｇのインディゴ顆粒をロイコ型に変換するためには、０．８ｋｇの亜硫酸水素ナトリウム及び０．６７ｋｇの水酸化ナトリウムが必要となる。典型的なインディゴ糸染色プロセスのワークフローは以下の通りである：プレウェッティング（prewetting）－リンス－精練（scouring）－リンス－糸の藍染め（yarn indigo dyeing）（ロープ染色（rope dyeing））－リンス／柔軟化（softening）－再ビーム延伸（rebeaming）。 Traditionally, indigo dyestuffs are commonly used to dye denim. Indigo pigment is a kind of vat dye that is insoluble in water. Indigo pigments have no affinity for cellulosic fibers. It is necessary to use large amounts of chemicals such as sodium hydroxide and sodium sulfite to convert indigo into a water-soluble form, which is a type of leuco type that has an affinity for fibers. To convert 1 kg of indigo granules to leuco form, 0.8 kg of sodium bisulfite and 0.67 kg of sodium hydroxide are required. The workflow of a typical indigo yarn dyeing process is as follows: prewetting-rinsing-scouring-rinsing-yarn indigo dyeing (rope dyeing)- Rinse / softening-rebeaming.

藍染めは、現在でも排水処理施設のある染色工場で行われており、水処理に高いコストがかかっている。さらに、生地の湿潤摩擦堅牢度（wet rubbing fastness）も低い。典型的なインディゴ糸の染色工場では、１日１０トンのインディゴ糸を以下のようなレシピで染色している：インディゴ顔料４ｇ／ｌ；ハイドロサルファイトナトリウム３．２ｇ／ｌ；水酸化ナトリウム２．６８ｇ／ｌ；ピックアップ７０％、ディップ１０回で、１日あたりインディゴ２８０ｋｇ、ハイドロサルファイトナトリウム２２４ｋｇ、水酸化ナトリウム１８８ｋｇを消費し、そのほとんどを水流に入る前に処理する必要がある。世界には１０００を超えるインディゴ糸の染色工場がある。 Indigo dyeing is still carried out at a dyeing factory that has a wastewater treatment facility, and water treatment is expensive. In addition, the wet rubbing fastness of the fabric is also low. In a typical indigo yarn dyeing factory, 10 tons of indigo yarn is dyed daily with the following recipe: indigo pigment 4 g / l; sodium hydrosulfite 3.2 g / l; sodium hydroxide 2. 68 g / l; 70% pickup, 10 dips consumes 280 kg of indigo, 224 kg of sodium hydrosulfite, and 188 kg of sodium hydroxide per day, most of which needs to be treated before entering the stream. There are more than 1000 indigo yarn dyeing factories in the world.

織物デニムは硬い手触りのため、ファッションデザイン、特にタイトフィット衣類又はシームレス衣類の分野では用途が限られている。しかし、最近の顧客は、デニムらしさだけでなく、柔らかさ、着心地の良さ、及び軽さなどを求めている。ニットデニムは、織物デニムよりもはるかに優れた特性を提供することが可能である。 Woven denim has limited use in fashion design, especially in the field of tight-fitting or seamless garments, due to its hard feel. However, recent customers demand not only denim-likeness, but also softness, comfort, and lightness. Knit denim can provide much better properties than woven denim.

典型的なデニム生地の編みプロセスのワークフローは以下の通りである：藍染された糸と藍染されていない糸を編み機に導入する―編む―生地精練－酵素処理－柔軟化－ステンタードレッシング（Stenter dressing）。 The workflow of a typical denim fabric knitting process is as follows: Introducing indigo-dyed and non-indigo-dyed yarns into a knitting machine-knitting-fabric scouring-enzymatic treatment-softening-Stenter dressing ).

ニットデニムには特殊なインディゴニット糸を使用することが必要であるが、コストの他に、そのような糸を入手できないことが、この市場を開拓するための重要な障害の一つとなっている。第二に、インディゴニット糸を使用すると、藍染めされた繊維及び糸の表面の摩擦堅牢度が低いため、編み工程中、ガイドローラー及びフィーダーに着色された繊維の粉が付着してしまう。洗浄のために必要な機械の停止時間は、生産効率を著しく低下させる。また、次の生産段階に入る前に汚染を完全に取り除かないと、その糸を使った生地の品質が著しく低下してしまう。 It is necessary to use special indigo knit yarn for knit denim, but besides the cost, the lack of such yarn is one of the important obstacles to open up this market. .. Secondly, when the indigo knit yarn is used, the indigo-dyed fiber and the surface of the yarn have low friction fastness, so that the colored fiber powder adheres to the guide roller and the feeder during the knitting process. The machine downtime required for cleaning significantly reduces production efficiency. Also, if the contamination is not completely removed before the next production stage, the quality of the fabric using the yarn will be significantly reduced.

綿の従来の反応性染色では、これらの問題を解決できない。綿に対する反応性染料では洗い流し効果が得られず、糸の染色により生じる一般的な問題も無くなっていない。 Traditional reactive dyeing of cotton cannot solve these problems. Reactive dyes for cotton do not have a wash-off effect, and the general problems caused by dyeing yarns have not disappeared.

このような先行技術に鑑み、解決すべき課題は、環境を汚染することなく、経済的な方法で典型的なデニム外観を有する生地を製造する方法を提供することである。 In view of such prior art, the problem to be solved is to provide a method for producing a fabric having a typical denim appearance in an economical way without polluting the environment.

本発明の目的は、
少なくとも、
（ａ）カチオン性改質剤で改質されたセルロース系繊維を含む第１の糸と、
（ｂ）カチオン性改質剤で改質されていないセルロース系繊維を含む第２の糸と、
からなる生地を提供することである。 An object of the present invention is
at least,
(A) A first thread containing a cellulosic fiber modified with a cationic modifier, and
(B) A second thread containing cellulosic fibers that have not been modified with a cationic modifier, and
Is to provide a dough consisting of.

図１は、デニムの代表的な生地の構造を示す。FIG. 1 shows the structure of a typical denim fabric. 図２は、本発明の好ましい実施形態を示す。FIG. 2 shows a preferred embodiment of the present invention.

カチオン性改質剤で改質されたセルロース系繊維を含む糸は、水系の実質的に無色のカチオン性架橋改質剤を用いて、パッケージ染色機で処理することにより製造することが可能である。「実質的に無色」とは、本発明の文脈では、ヒトの目で見ることが可能な色を有しないことを意味する。 Threads containing cellulosic fibers modified with a cationic modifier can be produced by treatment with a package dyeing machine using a water-based, substantially colorless cationic crosslink modifier. .. By "substantially colorless" is meant having no color visible to the human eye in the context of the present invention.

好適な無色のカチオン性架橋改質剤は、セルロースと反応可能な官能基を２つ以上、６つ以下有する。好ましくは、無色のカチオン性架橋改質剤は、トリメチルアンモニウム化合物及びカチオン性トリアジン化合物を含む群のうちの１つである。適切なカチオン性架橋改質剤は、ダウケミカル社（The Dow Chemical Company）から「Ｅｃｏｆａｓｔ（商標）ＣＲ－２０００」の商品名で市販されている。液比は１：４～１：１０である。カチオン性改質剤の投与量（乾燥物質で計算）は、２～４ｇ／Ｌの水酸化ナトリウムで生地の重量（ｏ．ｗ．ｆ）に対して１％～１０％である。処理温度は４０～８０℃で２０～４０分である。 Suitable colorless cationic cross-linking modifiers have 2 or more and 6 or less functional groups capable of reacting with cellulose. Preferably, the colorless cationic cross-linking modifier is one of a group comprising a trimethylammonium compound and a cationic triazine compound. Suitable cationic cross-linking modifiers are commercially available from The Dow Chemical Company under the trade name "Ecofast ™ CR-2000". The liquid ratio is 1: 4 to 1:10. The dose of the cationic modifier (calculated with a dry substance) is 2 to 4 g / L of sodium hydroxide, which is 1% to 10% based on the weight of the dough (owf). The treatment temperature is 40 to 80 ° C. for 20 to 40 minutes.

好ましくは、生地の構造は、生地の第１表面では主に第１の糸が見え、第２表面では主に第２の糸が見えるようになっている。これは、デニム生地の光学的外観の典型的な例である。 Preferably, the structure of the fabric is such that the first thread is mainly visible on the first surface of the fabric and the second thread is mainly visible on the second surface. This is a classic example of the optical appearance of denim fabric.

生地は、第３の糸、特にエラスタン糸を含んでいてもよい。典型的な糸は、Ｒｏｉｃａ（商標）エラスタン繊維を１００％含み、糸番手が２０デニールである糸である。 The fabric may contain a third thread, particularly an elastane thread. A typical yarn is a yarn containing 100% Roica ™ elastane fiber and a yarn count of 20 denier.

本発明に係る生地は、ニット生地又は織物生地のいずれかであり、好ましくはニット生地である。 The fabric according to the present invention is either a knit fabric or a woven fabric, preferably a knit fabric.

本発明の好ましい実施形態では、生地は、タックアンドミスカム（tuck and miss cam）技術に従って編まれたタックアンドミスステッチ（tuck and miss stich）構造タイプのニット生地であり、これは、ニット技術によって本発明のデニム効果を達成するために重要である。 In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fabric is a tuck and miss stich structural type knit fabric knitted according to the tack and miss cam technique, which is by the knit technique. It is important to achieve the denim effect of the present invention.

本発明のこの実施形態では、一般的なプロセスルートは以下の通りとなる：
糸の準備（第１の糸はカチオン性改質剤で改質され、第２の糸はカチオン性改質剤で改質されない）→タックアンドミスカム技術による第１及び第２の糸の丸編み（circular knitting）→生地の染色→酵素処理→柔軟化→ステンタードレッシング。 In this embodiment of the invention, the general process route is as follows:
Thread preparation (1st thread is modified with a cationic modifier, 2nd thread is not modified with a cationic modifier) → 1st and 2nd thread circles by tack and miscam technology Circular knitting-> fabric dyeing-> enzyme treatment->softening-> stenter dressing.

典型的な編み機及び機械の仕様としては、Ｔｅｒｒｏｔのシングルジャージージャカード機、モデルＳＨＳ－９０が挙げられ、シリンダー径：２６インチ、針ゲージ：２８Ｇ、送り数：４２、回転：反時計回りのものが挙げられる。しかし、本発明に係る特徴が実現されれば、機械の種類及び仕様は同じように機能し得る。 Typical knitting machine and machine specifications include Terrat's single jersey jacquard machine, model SHS-90, cylinder diameter: 26 inches, needle gauge: 28G, feed rate: 42, rotation: counterclockwise. Can be mentioned. However, if the features according to the present invention are realized, the types and specifications of the machines may function in the same manner.

好ましい実施形態では、第１の糸は、３０～８０％のリヨセル含有率を有していてもよい。リヨセルが３０％よりも少ないと、所望の「退色（fading）」又は「ウォッシュダウン（wash down）」効果が見られず、リヨセルが８０％より多いと、フィブリル化の際に生地又は衣服が汚れて見える。典型的な組成は、リヨセル繊維が５０％、綿繊維が５０％である。しかし、上記の範囲内のバリエーションは可能であり、効果的でもある。 In a preferred embodiment, the first yarn may have a lyocell content of 30-80%. Less than 30% lyocell does not show the desired "fading" or "wash down" effect, and more than 80% lyocell stains the fabric or garment during fibrilization. I can see it. A typical composition is 50% lyocell fiber and 50% cotton fiber. However, variations within the above range are possible and effective.

糸の種類（紡績方法、糸の番手など）は、最終的に得られる生地の種類に大きく左右され、当業者であればどの糸を選択すべきかがわかるであろう。ニットデニムには、リングスピン糸が適しており、例えば、第１の糸の糸番手はＮｅ ３０／２であってよい。 The type of yarn (spinning method, yarn count, etc.) is greatly influenced by the type of fabric finally obtained, and those skilled in the art will know which yarn to select. Ring spin yarn is suitable for knit denim, and for example, the yarn count of the first yarn may be Ne 30/2.

第１の糸は、カチオン性改質剤で処理されていてよい。カチオン性改質剤の濃度は、水溶液中で０．５～５％(ｗ／ｗ)、好ましくは１．０～３．５％(ｗ／ｗ)、最も好ましくは１．５～２．５％(ｗ／ｗ)であり得る。この処理により、第１の糸は、硫酸ナトリウム、炭酸ナトリウム、及びその他の染色助剤を使わずに反応性染料を吸収することが可能となる。 The first yarn may be treated with a cationic modifier. The concentration of the cationic modifier is 0.5 to 5% (w / w), preferably 1.0 to 3.5% (w / w), and most preferably 1.5 to 2.5 in the aqueous solution. It can be% (w / w). This treatment allows the first yarn to absorb the reactive dye without the use of sodium sulfate, sodium carbonate, and other dyeing aids.

好ましい実施形態では、第２の糸はリヨセル繊維１００％で構成される。得るべき感触に応じて、綿、モダール（modal）等の他のセルロース系繊維とブレンドすることも可能である。糸番手（yarn count）は、ＭＶＳ紡績法に準拠して紡績されたＮｅ １０であってもよい。第２の糸は、硫酸ナトリウム、炭酸ナトリウム、及びその他の染色助剤を使用しないと、反応性染料を吸収することができない。 In a preferred embodiment, the second yarn is composed of 100% lyocell fibers. It can also be blended with other cellulosic fibers such as cotton and modal, depending on the feel to be obtained. The yarn count may be Ne 10 spun according to the MVS spinning method. The second yarn cannot absorb the reactive dye without the use of sodium sulphate, sodium carbonate, and other dyeing aids.

図２は、本発明の好ましい実施形態を示したものである。ニット、タックアンドミスカムを使用した円形シングルジャージー横編機を使用して、生地上に均一なツイルパターンを構築し、生地の裏側と表側を含むデュアルプライド・デニムを製造する。裏側面は、丸編み機の調整により、表側面とは異なる編み目の長さで、張力・引張力を変化させて緩く編まれている。生地上にテリーツイル（terry twill）効果及びツイルのみによる効果が得られるようにカム配列が設定される。表側は、高密度プログラムで編み機を調整することにより、高いテンション／引張強度を有するように（with high tension/tensile force）コンパクトに構成されている。 FIG. 2 shows a preferred embodiment of the present invention. A circular single jersey flat knit machine with knit, tuck and miss cams is used to build a uniform twill pattern on the fabric to produce dual pride denim, including the back and front sides of the fabric. The back side surface is loosely knitted by changing the tension and tensile force with a stitch length different from that of the front side surface by adjusting the circular knitting machine. The cam arrangement is set so that the twill twill effect and the twill-only effect are obtained on the fabric. The front side is compactly configured to have high tension / tensile force by adjusting the knitting machine with a high density program.

図２は以下を示す（左から右に向かって）：
（ａ）表側（暗色）及び裏側（明色）の写真；
（ｂ）生地の断面（Ｂ＝糸１＝第１の糸；Ｗ＝糸２＝第２の糸）；
ｃ．／ｄ． 編み針の移動動作を制御する編み機プログラム。 Figure 2 shows the following (from left to right):
(A) Front side (dark color) and back side (light color) photographs;
(B) Cross section of the fabric (B = thread 1 = first thread; W = thread 2 = second thread);
c. / D. A knitting machine program that controls the movement of knitting needles.

本発明の別の好ましい実施形態では、生地は、デニムタイプの織布である。好ましくは、第１の糸は縦糸であり、第２の糸は横糸である。 In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the fabric is a denim type woven fabric. Preferably, the first thread is a warp and the second thread is a weft.

特に好ましい実施形態では、この生地はグレージュ（greige）、すなわち本質的に無色又は無染色の生地である。 In a particularly preferred embodiment, the fabric is greige, an essentially colorless or undyed fabric.

別の特に好ましい実施形態では、この生地はデニム外観となるように染められている。したがって、本発明の好ましい実施形態は、本質的に青色であり、好ましくは藍染めの綿生地に匹敵する青色の色合い（shade）を有する生地である。しかし、他の色（例えば赤、黒、緑など）も一種のデニム外観を有するものとして受け入れられる。一般的に、デニム外観の重要な態様は、ウォッシュアウト効果である。 In another particularly preferred embodiment, the fabric is dyed to give it a denim appearance. Therefore, a preferred embodiment of the present invention is a fabric that is essentially blue and preferably has a shade of blue comparable to that of indigo-dyed cotton fabric. However, other colors (eg red, black, green, etc.) are also accepted as having a kind of denim appearance. In general, an important aspect of the denim appearance is the washout effect.

好ましくは、第１の糸はリヨセル繊維を３０～８０％（ｗ／ｗ）含み、残りは綿であることが好ましい。 Preferably, the first yarn contains 30-80% (w / w) of lyocell fibers and the rest is cotton.

好ましくは、第２の糸はセルロース系繊維、特にリヨセル繊維で構成されている。得るべき感触に応じて、綿、モダール等の他のセルロース系繊維とブレンドすることも可能である。特に好ましい実施形態では、第２の糸は１００％リヨセル繊維で構成されている。 Preferably, the second yarn is composed of cellulosic fibers, especially lyocell fibers. It can also be blended with other cellulosic fibers such as cotton and modal, depending on the feel to be obtained. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the second yarn is composed of 100% lyocell fibers.

さらに好ましい実施形態では、本発明に係る生地は、特にエラスタン繊維から作られる、第３の糸を含む。 In a more preferred embodiment, the dough according to the invention comprises a third yarn made specifically from elastane fibers.

本発明の更なる目的は、塩の不在下（すなわち、染色浴が本質的に水（タブ水（tab water）のように、天然ミネラル分のみを含むもの）と反応性染料又は反応性染料の混合物とのみからなる状態）で、ｐＨ６．０～８．０（好ましくはｐＨ６．５～７．５）で反応性染料を用いて上記の生地を染色することにより、デニム外観を有する生地を製造するプロセスにおいて、上記の生地を使用することである。水源によっては、本発明に係るプロセスで使用する前に、まず水のｐＨを上述の範囲に調整する必要があり得る。 A further object of the present invention is that in the absence of salt (ie, the dyeing bath is essentially water (such as tab water, which contains only natural minerals) and reactive dyes or reactive dyes. A fabric having a denim appearance is produced by dyeing the above fabric with a reactive dye at pH 6.0 to 8.0 (preferably pH 6.5 to 7.5) in a state consisting only of a mixture). The process is to use the above dough. Depending on the water source, it may be necessary to first adjust the pH of the water to the above range prior to use in the process according to the invention.

本発明によれば、反応性染料は、単一の反応性染料であっても、生地に要求される色を得るのに好適な方法でブレンドされた複数の反応性染料の混合物からなる組成物であってもよい。 According to the present invention, the reactive dye is a composition consisting of a mixture of a plurality of reactive dyes blended in a manner suitable for obtaining the color required for the fabric, even if it is a single reactive dye. May be.

好ましい実施形態では、本発明に係る使用は、特に、本発明に係る生地を含む仕立て衣類（tailored garment）の後染め（piece dyeing）である。 In a preferred embodiment, the use according to the invention is, in particular, piece dyeing of tailored garment containing the fabric according to the invention.

本発明の更なる目的は、衣類、特にジーンズ、ジャケット、シャツ及びブラウスの製造のための、本発明に係る生地の使用を提供することである。これにより、それらの衣類は、デニム外観を示すであろう。 A further object of the present invention is to provide the use of fabrics according to the present invention for the manufacture of clothing, in particular jeans, jackets, shirts and blouses. Thereby, those garments will show a denim appearance.

次に、本発明を実施例によって説明する。これらの実施例は、本発明の範囲を何ら限定するものではない。また、本発明には、同じ発明概念に基づく他の実施形態も含まれる。 Next, the present invention will be described by way of examples. These examples do not limit the scope of the present invention in any way. The present invention also includes other embodiments based on the same concept of the invention.

＜実施例１＞
カチオン性処理（糸）：
第１の糸は、リヨセル繊維（オーストリアのLenzing Aktiengesellschaft社製、商品名「テンセル（ＴＥＮＣＥＬ）（商標）リヨセル」）５０％と綿繊維５０％から構成されていた。糸番手はＮｅ ３０/２で、リングスパン方式である。 <Example 1>
Cationic treatment (thread):
The first yarn was composed of 50% lyocell fiber (manufactured by Lenzing Akluv, Austria, trade name "TENCEL ™ lyocell") and 50% cotton fiber. The thread count is Ne 30/2, which is a ring span method.

第１の糸はパッケージ染色機で処理される。カチオン性架橋改質剤は、ダウケミカル社（The Dow Chemical Company）から「Ｅｃｏｆａｓｔ（商標）ＣＲ－２０００」の商品名で市販されている。カチオン性改質剤の濃度は、水酸化ナトリウム２ｇ／Ｌを含む処理液中で、糸の３％ｏ．ｗ．ｆ（すなわち「生地の重量に対して」）である。液比は１：６である。処理温度は８０℃で３０分である。 The first yarn is processed in a package dyeing machine. The cationic cross-linking modifier is commercially available from The Dow Chemical Company under the trade name "Ecofast ™ CR-2000". The concentration of the cationic modifier was 3% o. Of the yarn in the treatment liquid containing 2 g / L of sodium hydroxide. w. f (ie, "relative to the weight of the dough"). The liquid ratio is 1: 6. The treatment temperature is 80 ° C. for 30 minutes.

＜実施例２＞
生地の編み：
第１の糸は、実施例１の糸であった。第２の糸は、リヨセル繊維（オーストリアのLenzing Aktiengesellschaft社製、商品名「テンセル（商標）リヨセル」）１００％から構成されていた。糸番手はＭＶＳ紡績法でＮｅ １０である。第３の糸はＲｏｉｃａのスパンデックス１００％であり、糸番手は２０デニールであった。 <Example 2>
Fabric knitting:
The first thread was the thread of Example 1. The second yarn was composed of 100% lyocell fiber (manufactured by Lenzing Akluv, Austria, trade name "Tencel ™ lyocell"). The yarn count is Ne 10 by the MVS spinning method. The third yarn was Roica's 100% spandex and the yarn count was 20 denier.

編み機の仕様は以下の通りであった：Ｔｅｒｒｏｔ社製のシングルジャージージャカード機、モデルＳＨＳ－９０、シリンダー径：26インチ、針ゲージ：２８Ｇ、フィーダー数：４２、回転：反時計回り。このようにして得られた編み機プログラムと生地の構造は、図２の通りである。 The specifications of the knitting machine were as follows: Single jersey jacquard machine manufactured by Terrat, model SHS-90, cylinder diameter: 26 inches, needle gauge: 28G, number of feeders: 42, rotation: counterclockwise. The structure of the knitting machine program and the fabric thus obtained is as shown in FIG.

＜実施例３＞
染色及び仕上げプロセス（生地）
グレージュの生地は、染色プロセスの前に１９０℃のステンター（stenter）で２分間のヒートセットが行われる。染色プロセスはガーメントダイ法（garment dyeing method）で行われ、条件は以下の通りである：
液比： １：１０
精練(scouring）プロセス：６０℃で２０分
染色プロセス：６０℃で３０分
染色レシピ：
Ａｖｉｔｅｒａ Ｄｅｅｐ Ｂｌｕｅ ＳＥ：生地の２重量％
Ａｖｉｔｅｒａ Ｒｅｄ ＳＥ：生地の０．２重量％
酵素洗浄プロセス：５０℃で３０分
酵素洗浄レシピ：Ｔａｎａｚｙｍｅ ＣＭ １ｇ／ｌ
酢酸 ０．２ｍｌ／ｌ
柔軟化プロセス：４０℃で３０分
柔軟化レシピ：１％ Ｐｅｒｓｏｆｔａｌ Ｎａｎｏ ＳＩＬ

<Example 3>
Dyeing and finishing process (fabric)
Greige dough is heat-set for 2 minutes in a 190 ° C. stenter prior to the dyeing process. The dyeing process is carried out by the garment dyeing method and the conditions are as follows:
Liquid ratio: 1:10
Scouring process: 20 minutes at 60 ° C Staining process: 30 minutes at 60 ° C Staining recipe:
Avittera Deep Blue SE: 2% by weight of dough
Avitara Red SE: 0.2% by weight of fabric
Enzyme cleaning process: 30 minutes at 50 ° C. Enzyme cleaning recipe: Tanazeme CM 1g / l
Acetic acid 0.2 ml / l
Softening process: 30 minutes at 40 ° C. Softening recipe: 1% Personal Nano SIL

Claims (14)

少なくとも、
（ａ）カチオン性改質剤によって改質されたセルロース系繊維を含む第１の糸と、
（ｂ）カチオン性改質剤によって改質されていないセルロース系繊維を含む第２の糸と、
からなる生地。 at least,
(A) A first thread containing a cellulosic fiber modified by a cationic modifier, and
(B) A second yarn containing cellulosic fibers that have not been modified by a cationic modifier, and
Fabric consisting of. 前記生地は、前記生地の第１表面では主に第１の糸が見え、第２表面では主に第２の糸が見えるように構成されている、請求項１に記載の生地。 The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is configured such that the first thread is mainly visible on the first surface of the fabric and the second yarn is mainly visible on the second surface. 前記生地は、ニット生地又は織物生地であり、好ましくはニット生地である、請求項１に記載の生地。 The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is a knit fabric or a woven fabric, preferably a knit fabric. タックアンドミスステッチ構造タイプのニット生地である、請求項１に記載の生地。 The fabric according to claim 1, which is a tuck and misstitch structure type knit fabric. 前記生地は、デニムタイプの織物生地である、請求項１に記載の生地。 The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is a denim type woven fabric. 前記生地はグレージュ（greige）生地である、請求項１に記載の生地。 The dough according to claim 1, wherein the dough is a greige dough. 前記生地はデニム外観となるように染色されている、請求項１に記載の生地。 The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is dyed so as to have a denim appearance. 前記第１の糸はリヨセル繊維を３０～８０％（ｗ／ｗ）含む、請求項１に記載の生地。 The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the first yarn contains 30 to 80% (w / w) of lyocell fibers. 前記第２の糸はセルロース系繊維からなり、好ましくはリヨセル繊維１００％からなる、請求項１に記載の生地。 The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the second yarn is made of cellulosic fibers, preferably 100% lyocell fibers. 前記生地は第３の糸、特にエラスタン糸を含む、請求項１に記載の生地。 The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric contains a third yarn, particularly an elastane yarn. 塩の不在下で、ｐＨ６．０～８．０（好ましくはｐＨ６．５～７．５）で反応性染料を用いて生地を染色することにより、デニム外観を有する生地の製造における、請求項１に記載の生地の使用。 1 Use of the fabrics listed in. 前記反応性染料は、生地に要求される色を得るための、複数の染料の混合物からなる組成物である、請求項１１に記載の使用。 11. The use of claim 11, wherein the reactive dye is a composition comprising a mixture of a plurality of dyes to obtain the color required for the fabric. 染色は、特に、請求項１に記載の生地を含む仕立て衣類（tailored garment）の後染め（piece dyeing）である、請求項１１に記載の使用。 The use according to claim 11, wherein the dyeing is, in particular, piece dyeing of tailored garment comprising the fabric of claim 1. 衣類（特にジーンズ、ジャケット、シャツ、及びブラウス）の製造における、請求項１に記載の生地の使用。

Use of the fabric according to claim 1 in the manufacture of clothing (particularly jeans, jackets, shirts, and blouses).
JP2021545708A 2019-02-04 2020-01-31 Denim fabric and its use Pending JP2022519847A (en)

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