CN104695105B - A kind of coffee-yarn blending mixes the production technology of knitted fabric - Google Patents
A kind of coffee-yarn blending mixes the production technology of knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of coffee-yarn blending and mix the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterized in that: comprise the following steps: spinning and weaving pre-treatment dyeing Final finishing, wherein: use gentle pre-treatment oil removing process, dyeing use first contaminate dispersion, again dye activity double dyeing techniques, with solve blending mix textured fiber dye a homochromy difficult problem；Control by coffee-yarn blending being mixed the finishing agent in the postfinishing process of knitted fabric and consumption, solve coffee-yarn blending and mix appearance " homochromy ", " heterochromatic " problem in knitted fabric dyeing, the while of obtaining good breathability and preferable colorfastness to rubbing, coffee-yarn fiber can be taken into account again and inhale many effects such as smelly taste removal, heat accumulation thermal, far infrared, absorbing fast-drying.
Description
Technical field:
The present invention relates to the production technology of a kind of fabric, particularly relate to a kind of coffee-yarn blending and mix the production work of knitted fabric
Skill.
The coffee Pure Yarn of indication of the present invention, refers to the yarn using 100% coffee-yarn to be spun into.
The coffee-yarn mixed yarn of indication of the present invention, refers to use yarn formed by coffee-yarn and other fiber blends.
The coffee-yarn of indication of the present invention mixes knitted fabric, refers to use coffee Pure Yarn, coffee mixed yarn to mix with other yarns
The fabric being made into.
Background technology:
Coffee-yarn refers to utilize the coffee grounds reclaimed to import the special textile yarn made in polyester fiber, not only has wide
General raw material sources, and production process low-carbon environment-friendly, this coffee-yarn meeting environmental protection Fashion Ideas, as a new generation
Environmental protection organic cotton replaces material, due to its " green, environmental protection, health, low-carbon (LC) ", is increasingly becoming the new lover of people.
Currently, the technological process of production of coffee-yarn is as follows: raw coffee bean → bakee ripe bean → coffee grounds → coffee-yarn master batch
→ coffee-yarn.
Owing to coffee-yarn has excellent properties, at present at aspects such as inhaling smelly taste removal, heat accumulation thermal, far infrared, absorbing fast-drying
It is widely used in textile, such as:
Zhao Jumei has researched and analysed the uvioresistant of S.Caf é coffee-yarn, has inhaled the performances such as smelly taste removal, moisture absorbing and sweat releasing, the most also divides
Analyse the application prospect of current coffee-yarn, and the market share looking forward to coffee-yarn functional fabric in the future can constantly expand.
Chen Zhipeng has designed and developed a kind of coffee-yarn antibacterial environment protection socks, and obtains utility model patent.Use coffee-yarn
As the table yarn of sock body, use alloy germanium wrap yarn as yarn in sock body.The organizational structure of sock body uses
The organizational structure of rib construction and plain stitch, undertoe and heel uses the plain stitch of encryption, and the organizational structure of the stocking sole uses
Plain stitch, the organizational structure of stocking blank uses the rib construction of encryption, and the organizational structure of instep and the stocking leg uses scored sieve
Stricture of vagina tissue.The reasonable distribution of braiding tissue, improves socks snugness of fit, plays the effect of stable socks dress, and has suction
The effects such as wet, ventilative, antibacterial, deodorization.
The preparation method of coffee carbon fiber plush printing blanket is studied by Chen Taigang, Chen Taibin, and obtain send out
Bright patent.The Weaving-machine of this woollen blanket uses double rib warp loom, and plush yarn uses acrylon and the yarn of coffee carbon fiber braiding
Line, double yarn specifications are 28s～36s, and the bed material terylene after warping is as the stuffer weft of woollen blanket and forms into columns and perform drills yarn.This woollen blanket has feel
The feature such as soft, bright in colour, also has the health cares such as heat accumulation thermal, dehumidifying, antibacterial, anion releasing, has more environmental protection
Property, the advantage of economy.Coffee-yarn antibacterial environment protection socks, the appearance of coffee carbon fiber plush printing blanket, be fine to coffee carbon
Tie up the flexible utilization of this Novel environment-friendlymaterial material, make coffee-yarn have wider application at field of textiles.
In sum, the above-mentioned research about coffee-yarn textile, is all the application aspect concentrating on coffee-yarn, but,
Spinning process, knitting and weaving and dyeing and finishing technology research and development for coffee-yarn fabric are the most little, specifically, although coffee-yarn conduct
A new generation's environmental protection organic cotton substitution material, but the characteristic of coffee-yarn itself, be different from general natural fiber such as cotton fiber, such as:
The weaving process of coffee-yarn fabric, homochromy, the heterochromatic problem etc. of the dyeing etc. of coffee-yarn fabric, particularly dyeing course,
It it is all the technical barrier needing during coffee-yarn fabric produces to solve.
Summary of the invention:
It is an object of the invention to, the characteristic of research coffee-yarn fabric, it is provided that a kind of suction smelly taste removal, heat accumulation thermal, moisture absorption
The coffee-yarn blending of rapid-curing cutback mixes the production technology of knitted fabric.
The technical scheme that the present invention takes is as follows:
A kind of coffee-yarn blending mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: comprise the following steps: spinning is knitted
Make pre-treatment dyeing Final finishing, wherein:
(1), spinning:
Using coffee-yarn and staple fibre blending, coffee-yarn with the proportioning of staple fibre is: 30-60:70-40, spinner
Skill uses Air-Jet Spinning spinning process；
(2), weaving:
With at least one of coffee Pure Yarn or coffee mixed yarn as raw material, with interlock, polyester fibre cotton, plaiting group
Knit, systemic circulation weave coffee-yarn blending mixes knitted fabric, according to fabric organizational structure, controls every road yarn and enters yarn tension at 6-
12CN, speed 22-25r/min；
(3), pre-treatment:
Pre-treating technology formula is as follows:
Soda 1%o.w.f
Elegant auspicious LPA-G 1%o.w.f
Chelated dispersants 0.5%o.w.f；
Pre-treating technology step is as follows: by above-mentioned formula, soda, elegant auspicious LPA-G, chelated dispersants are configured to front place
Reason liquid, is placed in fabric in above-mentioned pretreatment liquid, adjusts bath raio 1:5, is incubated 30-45min, after being disposed at 85-98 DEG C
Washing, then carries out dyeing process；
(4), dyeing:
Fabric after pre-treatment, first carries out disperse dyeing, after disperse dyeing cleans up, then carries out activity dye
Material dyeing；
Disperse dyeing process formula is as follows:
Disperse dyeing process step is as follows:
Become dye liquor by above-mentioned recipe configuration, the grey cloth through pre-treatment is placed in above-mentioned dye liquor, adjust bath raio 1:5, rise
Temperature, to 125-130 DEG C of insulation 45min, after having dyeed, draining of lowering the temperature, carries out reduction cleaning；
Reactive dyeing process formula is as follows:
Reactive dyeing process step is as follows: reactive dye, water softener, levelling agent, sodium bicarbonate are joined by above-mentioned formula
It is set to activity dye liquor, the grey cloth through dispersion dyeing is placed in above-mentioned activity dye liquor, adjusts bath raio 1:5, use 1 DEG C/min's
Ramp, to 60 DEG C, adds Matrii Sulfas Exsiccatus, is incubated 15min, adds soda, sheet alkali, is incubated 45min, draining, then carries out next
The soap washing of step；
(5), Final finishing:
Described finishing process formula is as follows:
Finishing agent 30-50g/L
Citric acid 0.5g/L；
Postfinishing process step is as follows: by said ratio, water, finishing agent and citric acid are configured to dressing liquid, by dyed
After fabric padding finishing liquid, padding machine pressure: 3.5-4kg, then use sizing speed 20-23m/min, temperature 160-170 DEG C
Drying and shaping, gets product after inspection.
Further it is provided in:
Described coffee-yarn blending mixes knitted fabric and refers to use any one or two kinds of coffee Pure Yarn, coffee mixed yarn,
The fabric knitted is mixed with other fibers.
Described elegant auspicious LPA-G selects Yayun Texile Agents Co., Ltd., Shanghai to produce, described chelated dispersants choosing
Select the chelated dispersants GF-108A that photoinitiator chemical auxiliary agent industrial and trading company of state of Ningbo City produces.
In described disperse dyeing: disperse dyes select any one of high temperature modification disperse dyes.
Described disperse dyes select the black WHTS of dispersion of Zhejiang Longsheng Dye Chemical Co., Ltd, disperse black HW BG or divide
Dissipate blue WNBTS.
Described levelling agent selects the levelling agent M-2104C that Hangzhou Meigao Huayi Chemical Industry Co., Ltd produces.
In described disperse dyeing: heating process is as follows: under room temperature use 2 DEG C/min ramp, 70 DEG C with
After, use the ramp of 1 DEG C/min, after 90 DEG C, use the ramp of 0.5 DEG C/min to 125-130 DEG C of insulation
45min, dyeing is cooled to 80 DEG C of drainings with 2 DEG C/min rate of temperature fall after terminating.
In described reactive dyeing: any one or more of warm type dark color reactive dye in reactive dye selection.
In described reactive dyeing: reactive dye select black, carbuncle and navy blue double-active group dark dye
Any one or more.
Described water softener selects water softener CT, and described levelling agent selects the Huo Mei that in Clariant chemical industry, Co., Ltd produces
Tuo Er C liquid.
In described reactive dyeing: soda, the addition of sheet alkali divide 3 times and carries out, based on formula adds soda, sheet alkali
Gross mass, adds the 1/4 of gross mass for the first time, and second time adds the 1/4 of gross mass, and third time adds the 1/2 of gross mass.
In postfinishing process, described finishing agent uses the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing agent that Zhuhai Hua Da Hao Hong Chemical Co., Ltd. produces
HS-TC-18。
The beneficial effects of the present invention is:
(1) in spinning process, coffee-yarn is pure spin or with other fiber blend yarns such as viscose glue, have employed Air-Jet Spinning spinner
Skill substitutes conventional RING SPINNING spinning process, and Yarn filoplume is few, and strength and pliability meet following process and to feel and fluff
The requirement of ball wearability.Core-skin Rotating fields yarn is formed so that in polynary mixed fiber yarn line, coffee-yarn is relatively additionally by Air-Jet Spinning
Many yam surface that are distributed in, and viscose rayon more be distributed in yarn internal layer, yarn absorption abnormal flavour and wet transmitting performance are good,
Skin-friendly is good.
(2) pre-treating technology uses gentle pre-treatment oil removing process, dyeing use first contaminate dispersion, again dye activity pair
Dyeing technique, with solve coffee-yarn blending mix textured fiber dyeing in " homochromy ", " heterochromatic " difficult problem.
(3) coffee-yarn blending is mixed the selection of knitted fabric dyeing dyestuff, preferably middle High Temperature Disperse material and double activated
The activity middle temperature material of base, simultaneously by auxiliary agent and the optimization of dyeing, it is achieved that coffee-yarn blending mixes the middle dark color of knitted fabric
Double dyeing techniques；Coffee-yarn blending is mixed the liter temperature control of knitted fabric dyeing simultaneously: ensure that coffee-yarn and two kinds of fibers of viscose glue can contaminate
Obtain same chromatic effect.
(4) coffee-yarn blending is mixed the Final finishing processing technique of knitted fabric, by the screening for finishing agent, adjusts simultaneously
Postfinishing process, particularly finishing agent consumption and setting temperature, the final moisture absorbing and sweat releasing soft finishing agent HS-using 30-50g/L
TC-18, is processed with the speed of 20-23m/min at 165-170 DEG C, can obtain good breathability and the color that preferably rubs
Fastness (dark crock fastness about 4 grades).
Below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments, the present invention is elaborated further.
Accompanying drawing illustrates:
Fig. 1 is the intensification control flow chart of embodiment of the present invention disperse dyeing；
Fig. 2 is the intensification control flow chart of embodiment of the present invention reactive dyeing.
Detailed description of the invention
Embodiment 1:
A kind of coffee-yarn blending of the present invention mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, and flow process is as follows: before spinning and weaving
Process dyeing Final finishing coffee-yarn blending and mix knitted fabric finished product.
1, spinning:
1.1 material choice:
Use coffee-yarn and viscose fiber blending, and adjust yarn proportioning and be respectively as follows: coffee-yarn: not viscose rayon=30/
70、40/60、50/50、60/40。
1.2 spinning process:
Using Air-Jet Spinning spinning process, the different blending rate of test is for the impact of coffee/viscose blended yarn performance respectively,
As shown in table 1.
Table 1, the different blending rate impact on yarn property.
| Blending rate | Spinning process | Yarn strength/(CN/tex) | Yarn filoplume | Elimination of off flavor performance |
| 30:70 | Air-Jet Spinning | ≥10.6CN/tex | Less | Typically |
| 40:60 | Air-Jet Spinning | ≥10.8CN/tex | Less | Typically |
| 50:50 | Air-Jet Spinning | ≥11.4CN/tex | Less | The best |
| 60:40 | Air-Jet Spinning | ≥11.9CN/tex | Less | Good |
As can be seen from the above table: when the blending rate of coffee-yarn and viscose rayon is 60/40, can reach preferable abnormal flavour to inhale
Attached performance, and Yarn filoplume is less, accordingly, it is determined that optimal spinning process is: use coffee-yarn and viscose fiber blending, coffee-yarn
It is 60:40 with the ratio of viscose rayon, makes 26～40S coffees/viscose blended yarn by Air-Jet Spinning spinning process.
2, weaving:
It is raw material by 26～40S coffees/viscose blended yarn and the 26～40S spun rayon yarns of spinning, with interlock, washs lid
Cotton, plating structure, systemic circulation weave coffee-yarn blending mix knitted fabric.Different according to fabric organizational structure, control every road yarn
Line enters yarn tension in 6-12CN, speed 22-25r/min, and in weaving process, yarn is the most easily broken, without horizontal stripe, rove, spun yarn and broken
The weave faults such as hole, and fabric performance parameter after trial dyeing of different tissues structure is compared be shown in Table 2.
Performance parameter after table 2, different tissues structure fabric trial dyeing
As can be seen from the above table: 30～40S polyester fibre cotton tissue fabrics and 30～40S systemic circulation tissue fabric pattern flower pattern are relatively
Good, in fabric, the smelly taste removal of the suction of coffee-yarn fiber, heat accumulation thermal, far infrared and absorbing fast-drying characteristic can play largely,
Weaving Difficulty Index is less.
3, pre-treatment:
For ensureing in follow-up dyeing process, the coffee-yarn in fabric, viscose fiber staining obtain uniform, homochromy dyeing effect
Really, using gentle refinery practice at pretreatment procedure, make pre-treatment evener, more saturating, facilitate in follow-up dyeing process, Dry Sack is fresh
Gorgeous, full, to reach uniform, homochromy Color.
Pre-treating technology formula is as follows:
Pre-treating technology step is as follows: soda, elegant auspicious LPA-G, chelated dispersants GF-108A are prepared by above-mentioned formula
Become pretreatment liquid, grey cloth is placed in above-mentioned pretreatment liquid, adjust bath raio 1:5, at 85-98 DEG C, be incubated 30-45min, process
After wash, then carry out dyeing process.
In pre-treating technology:
Described elegant auspicious LPA-G is commercial goods, and manufacturer is Yayun Texile Agents Co., Ltd., Shanghai, elegant auspicious
LPA-G adds as organic solvent and surfactant, and it functions as pre-treatment refining aids and degreaser.
Described chelated dispersants is commercial goods, it is preferred to use the chela that photoinitiator chemical auxiliary agent industrial and trading company of state of Ningbo City produces
Closing dispersant GF-108A, its effect is that underwater gold is belonged to ion complexation.
Described washing uses conventional water wash technique.
The present invention uses the pre-treating technology of improvement, has the effect that
Kiering and refining procedure, compared with conventional pre-treatment, have been merged by the pre-treating technology of the present invention at short notice
Becoming, auxiliary dosage is fewer than common process, and the pre-treatment time is short, and save time province's energy, the fabrics feel soft after process, damages fabric
Hindering little, energy saving technology, efficiently, environmental pollution is little, is environmental protection processing technique.
On the other hand, the present invention is directed to coffee-yarn viscose fiber blending and mix the pre-treatment of knitted fabric, use gentle short route
Pre-treating technology, selects the elegant auspicious LPA-G of low concentration simultaneously, makes fabric obtain soft feel and effect of deoiling；Above-mentioned
Technical recipe does not adds hydrogen peroxide bleaching agent, is because mixing knitted fabric in view of coffee-yarn viscose fiber blending and is difficult at light color
Colour gamut obtains even dyeing effect, and contaminates dark color and be not required to carry out bleaching.
4, dyeing:
It is made up of, according to it coffee-yarn and the viscose rayon of polyester base owing to coffee-yarn viscose fiber blending mixes knitted fabric
Characteristic, the present embodiment determines employing disperse dyes and reactive dye, two kinds of fibers realizes double dye respectively, pays particular attention to
It is, when disperse dyeing, viscose rayon to be had loose colour staining phenomenon, therefore, experiments prove that, take first to contaminate dispersion,
After dispersion dyeing cleans up, then contaminate active integrated artistic flow process, can effectively solve the problems referred to above.
Individually below disperse dyeing and reactive dyeing are described in detail.
4.1, disperse dyeing:
Disperse dyeing process formula is as follows:
Disperse dyeing process step is as follows: become dye liquor by above-mentioned recipe configuration, is placed in by the grey cloth through pre-treatment
In above-mentioned dye liquor, adjust bath raio 1:5, be warming up to 125-130 DEG C of insulation 45min, after having dyeed, draining of lowering the temperature, reduce
Clean.
In above-mentioned technique:
Described disperse dyes select High Temperature Disperse dyestuff, and the dispersion such as Zhejiang Longsheng Dye Chemical Co., Ltd is black
WHTS, disperse blue WNBTS etc..
Described ammonium sulfate is strong acid weak base salt, and its effect is that the PH to dye bath buffers.
Described glacial acetic acid provides acid condition for dye bath, facilitates dye coffee-yarn fiber on disperse dyes.
Described levelling agent selects the levelling agent M-2104C that Hangzhou Meigao Huayi Chemical Industry Co., Ltd produces, and its effect is
Make disperse dyes slow down in the diffusion velocity of fiber, it is achieved uniform adsorption, finally realize level dyeing purpose.
4.2, reactive dyeing:
Reactive dyeing process formula is as follows:
Reactive dyeing process step is as follows: reactive dye, water softener, levelling agent, sodium bicarbonate are joined by above-mentioned formula
It is set to activity dye liquor, the grey cloth through dispersion dyeing is placed in above-mentioned activity dye liquor, adjusts bath raio 1:5, use 1 DEG C/min's
Ramp, to 60 DEG C, adds Matrii Sulfas Exsiccatus, is incubated 15min, adds soda, sheet alkali, is incubated 45min, draining, then carries out next
The technique of soaping of step.
In above-mentioned technique:
Warm type dark color reactive dye in the selection of described reactive dye, may select the double-active radicals such as black, carbuncle and navy blue
Any one or more of the dark dye of group.
Described water softener is a kind of inorganic polymer, and its effect is to reduce the calcium ions and magnesium ions in water quality.In the present embodiment
Select water softener CT, for commercial goods, Shaoxing China Textile Chemical Co., Ltd. produce, it is possible to select other water softeners, there is no spy
Do not limit.
The effect of described levelling agent is to level dyeing and the wrinkle resistant effect of having dyeed, and selects Huo Meituoer C liquid in the present embodiment, for
Commercial goods, is produced by Co., Ltd in Clariant chemical industry, it is possible to selecting other levelling agents, there is no particular restriction.
Sodium bicarbonate is used for regulating dye bath pH value.
In above-mentioned Dyeing with Reactive Dyes, except control technological parameter is in OK range, occur without scratch, folding
The flaw points such as trace, in terms of the Tone-on-Tone Dyeing effect realizing two kinds of fibers, note also time and the consumption adding alkali.
It is preferably based in above-mentioned formula addition soda, the gross mass of sheet alkali, point 3 additions soda, sheet alkali, for the first time
Adding the 1/4 of gross mass, second time adds the 1/4 of gross mass, and third time adds the 1/2 of gross mass, and its effect is to ensure that fiber
Gradually on contaminate fixation, make dyeing course realize controlled upper dye fixation, will not dyestuff premature hydrolysis cause loose colour or chase after color difficulty.
4.3, dye selection:
Blending for coffee-yarn Yu viscose rayon mixes knitting needle knitted fabric, owing to coffee-yarn itself presents charcoal ash color, depends on
According to the difference of coffee-yarn adding proportion, the blending of coffee-yarn and viscose rayon mixes knitted fabric and mostly presents the ash that shade differs
, when dyeing, there is resisdye and be difficult to overlap flat problem in chromatic effect, what most cases obtained is heterochromatic or spends ash effect, right
The homochromatism index reaching two kinds of stock-dyes brings certain difficulty of processing.
Mix the dyeing flow process of knitted fabric based on above-mentioned coffee-yarn blending, adjust different disperse dyes and activity dye
Material, records its dye-uptake and level-dyeing property, and result is as shown in table 3.
Coffee-yarn blending is mixed the impact of the dye-uptake of knitted fabric, level-dyeing property by table 3, different dyes
Note: be manufacturer in dyestuff bracket.
As can be seen from the above table: when coffee-yarn blending is mixed knitted fabric dyeing, when disperse dyes are selected light or bright-coloured
During color, the dye-uptake of dispersion dyeing is the highest, then level-dyeing property is bad after vital staining, mostly in goniochromatic effect, it is desirable to contaminate same
Chromatic effect difficulty is very big, and when coffee-yarn blending mixes dark color during knitted fabric contaminates, solves the homochromy of two kinds of stock-dyes
Property a difficult problem or have realization may.
It is experimentally confirmed that work as the black WHTS of megathermal dispersion during disperse dyes are selected, disperse black HW BG (Zhejiang dragon Sheng dyestuff
Chemical Co., Ltd. produces) time, dye-uptake can get deeper color and luster, the Lycoperdon polymorphum Vitt to coffee-yarn itself up to 68-70%, fabric
Play good opacifying effect.And reactive dye select in the combination of warm type dark color reactive dye, particularly black, carbuncle and dark blue
The dark dye of the double-active groups such as color, effectively can hide the Lycoperdon polymorphum Vitt of coffee-yarn itself, and realize coffee-yarn blended yarn weaved fabric
The same chromatic effect of dyeing.
4.4, dyeing liter temperature control:
For ensureing that coffee-yarn and two kinds of fibers of viscose glue can contaminate to obtain same chromatic effect, for the control of dyeing, particularly rise
The control of temperature technique is most important.
The temperature of disperse dyeing process controls as it is shown in figure 1, in disperse dyes heating process, owing to coffee-yarn is fine
Porous effect within Wei, after 70 DEG C, dye adsorption dispersion is accelerated, and after 90 DEG C, dyestuff is more fast toward fibrous inside diffusion
Speed, for ensureing level-dyeing property and the homochromy result of resisdye, shows through substantial amounts of experiment, uses the work that heats up as follows during disperse dyeing
Skill, it is possible to obtain extraordinary dye-uptake and same chromatic effect: use the ramp of 2 DEG C/min under room temperature, after 70 DEG C, adopt
With the ramp of 1 DEG C/min, after 90 DEG C, the ramp of 0.5 DEG C/min is used to be incubated 45min to 125-130 DEG C, with
In guarantee, dye uniformly, does not haves deep mixed effect at cloth cover folding line.Dyeing is cooled to 2 DEG C/min rate of temperature fall after terminating
80 DEG C of drainings.
The temperature of reactive dyeing process controls as in figure 2 it is shown, the grey cloth through dispersion dyeing is placed in activity dye liquor
In, adjust bath raio 1:5, use the ramp of 1 DEG C/min to 60 DEG C, add Matrii Sulfas Exsiccatus, be incubated 15min, add soda, sheet
Alkali, is incubated 45min, draining.
5, Final finishing:
Finishing process formula is as follows:
Described finishing agent uses the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing agent HS-TC-18 that Zhuhai Hua Da Hao Hong Chemical Co., Ltd. produces.
Postfinishing process step is as follows: by said ratio, water, finishing agent and citric acid are configured to dressing liquid, will be through softness
Fabric padding finishing liquid after process, padding machine pressure: 3.5-4kg, then use sizing speed 20-23m/min, temperature 165-
170 DEG C of drying and shaping, get product after inspection.
Due to the quick adsorption performance of coffee-yarn fiber, finishing process must be paid special attention to finishing agent type
Selecting and consumption, coffee-yarn fiber hole can be closed blocking by the consumption of finishing agent too much, affects the smelly function of odor removal of suction of fabric,
The consumption of finishing agent very little, can cause finishing agent absorption irregular to make cloth cover color, coloured light etc. there are differences.
5.1, the selection of finishing agent:
For ensureing that two kinds of fibers of coffee-yarn blended yarn weaved fabric obtain softness, moisture absorbing and sweat releasing effect simultaneously, need to select to be suitable to coffee
Coffee yarn and the finishing agent of two kinds of materials of viscose glue, based on above-mentioned rear finishing duplex process flow, applicant selects different finishing agent, in order to survey
Coffee-yarn blending is mixed knitted fabric water absorption, breathability, color fastness and the impact of content of formaldehyde index by fixed its, result such as table 4 institute
Show.
Coffee-yarn blending is mixed the impact of knitted fabric performance by table 4, different finishing agents
As can be seen from the above table: use moisture control agent HS-TC-18 to carry out patterning process, coffee-yarn blending is mixed knits
The water absorption of fabric, breathability and color fastness are superior to other finishing agent, can obtain preferably perspire, breathability and preferable color
Fastness.
5.2, coffee-yarn blending is mixed the impact of knitted fabric performance by finishing agent consumption:
Based on above-mentioned rear finishing duplex process flow, use moisture absorbing and sweat releasing agent HS-TC-18 as finishing agent, adjust finishing agent
Consumption, measure its on coffee-yarn fabric water absorption, breathability, color fastness and the impact of content of formaldehyde index, as shown in table 5.
Coffee-yarn blending is mixed the impact of knitted fabric performance by table 5, different finishing agent consumptions
| Finishing agent consumption g/L | Water absorption/S | Breathability | Color fastness | Content of formaldehyde |
| 10 | 1 | Preferably | 4 | 0 |
| 20 | ≤1 | Preferably | 4 | 0 |
| 30 | ≤1 | Good | 4 | 0 |
| 40 | ≤1 | Good | 4 | 0 |
| 50 | ≤1 | Good | 4 | 0 |
| 60 | ≤1 | Good | 3-4 | 0 |
| 70 | ≤1 | Good | 3-4 | 0 |
As can be seen from the above table: use moisture absorbing and sweat releasing agent HS-TC-18 to be processed as finishing agent, can obtain preferably
Water suction, breathability and preferable color fastness.When finishing agent consumption is less, water suction, breathability poor, when finishing agent concentration is higher than
50g/L, the color fastness that coffee-yarn blending mixes knitted fabric adversely affects, mainly due to when finishing agent consumption is excessive, fine
Dimension table face is organized agent covering can affect the adsorption function of coffee-yarn, when selecting the consumption of 30-50g/L, and water suction, breathability and relatively
Good color fastness etc. is optimal.
5.3, arrange temperature and coffee-yarn blending mixed the impact of knitted fabric performance:
Based on above-mentioned rear finishing duplex process flow, use the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing agent HS-TC-18 of 30-50g/L as finishing agent, adjust
Totally manage temperature, measure it and coffee-yarn blending is mixed knitted fabric water absorption, breathability, color fastness and the impact of feel index, as
Shown in table 6.
Coffee-yarn blending is mixed the impact of knitted fabric performance by table 6, the different temperature that arranges
| Temperature DEG C | Water absorption | Breathability | Color fastness | Feel |
| 140 | 1 | Preferably | 4 | The best |
| 150 | ≤1 | Preferably | 4 | Good |
| 160 | ≤1 | Good | 4 | Good |
| 170 | ≤1 | Good | 3-4 | Good |
| 180 | ≤1 | Preferably | 3-4 | The best |
| 190 | ≤1 | Typically | 3-4 | The hardest |
As can be seen from the above table: when arranging temperature at 160-170 DEG C, sizing finishing effect is best, water absorption, breathability
Good, color fastness is higher, and good hand touch.
To sum up, in postfinishing process, use the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing soft finishing agent of 30-50g/L, at 160-170 DEG C with 20-
The speed of 23m/min is processed, and can obtain preferable flexible, breathable, feel and preferable color fastness.Meanwhile, for anti-fastening
After type, fabric color or coloured light change, and the citric acid adding 0.5g/L in dressing liquid can improve fabric PH and coloured light.
6, the examination and test of products:
Being tested by the fabric finished product of above-mentioned preparation, performance indications are as follows:
The most washable, perspiration resistance, fastness to rubbing >=3-4 level；Pilling resistance >=3-4 level；
2. elimination of off flavor performance: abnormal flavour rate of descent >=50% (12 hours)；
3. far-infrared textiles, normal emittance >=0.80；
4. content of formaldehyde is up to state standards requirement (75mg/kg).
7, sum up:
The preferred technological parameter of the present embodiment is as follows:
Embodiment 2:
The technological process of production of the present embodiment is substantially with embodiment 1, and difference is the selection of raw material.The raw material of the present embodiment
Employing coffee-yarn Pure Yarn and the mixed knitted fabric of the mixed yarn such as coffee/viscose glue, coffee/Modal, wherein, coffee-yarn Pure Yarn,
Coffee/viscose glue, coffee/Modal uses Air-Jet Spinning to form 21～40S core-skin Rotating fields yarns, solves traditional ring spinning and easily fluffs
The problem of balling-up.By above-mentioned yarn, with polyester fibre cotton tissue or systemic circulation etc. as braiding structure, viscose glue or not generation when yarn row's yarn
Your yarn is distributed in the nexine of fabric, and coffee-yarn is distributed in fabric outer layer.
Concrete technology parameter is as follows:
Fabric finished product prepared by the present embodiment, through inspection, performance indications are as follows:
The most washable, perspiration resistance, fastness to rubbing >=3-4 level；Pilling resistance >=3-4 level；
2. elimination of off flavor performance: abnormal flavour rate of descent >=50% (12 hours)；
3. far-infrared textiles, normal emittance >=0.80；
4. content of formaldehyde is up to state standards requirement (75mg/kg).
5. disperse materials dye-uptake: >=67%；
The most same chromogenic indicator: coffee-yarn fiber and viscose rayon Dry Sack difference E≤0.7.
Claims (12)
1. a coffee-yarn blending mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: comprise the following steps: spinning is knitted
Make pre-treatment dyeing Final finishing, wherein:
(1), spinning:
Using coffee-yarn and staple fibre blending, coffee-yarn with the proportioning of staple fibre is: 30-60:70-40, spinning process is adopted
Use Air-Jet Spinning spinning process；
(2), weaving:
With coffee mixed yarn or coffee Pure Yarn and two kinds of yarns of coffee mixed yarn as raw material, with interlock, polyester fibre cotton, add
Yarn tissue, systemic circulation weave coffee-yarn blending mix knitted fabric, according to fabric organizational structure, control every road yarn and enter yarn tension
In 6-12CN, speed 22-25r/min；
(3), pre-treatment:
Pre-treating technology formula is as follows:
Soda 1%o.w.f
Elegant auspicious LPA-G 1%o.w.f
Chelated dispersants 0.5%o.w.f；
Pre-treating technology step is as follows: by above-mentioned formula, soda, elegant auspicious LPA-G, chelated dispersants are configured to pretreatment liquid,
Fabric is placed in above-mentioned pretreatment liquid, adjusts bath raio 1:5, at 85-98 DEG C, be incubated 30-45min, wash after being disposed,
Then dyeing process is carried out；
(4), dyeing:
Fabric after pre-treatment, first carries out disperse dyeing, after disperse dyeing cleans up, then carries out reactive dye dye
Color；
Disperse dyeing process formula is as follows:
Disperse dyes 1-4% o.w.f
Ammonium sulfate 1.5g/l
Glacial acetic acid 0.5g/l
Levelling agent 1-1.5g/l；
Disperse dyeing process step is as follows:
Become dye liquor by above-mentioned recipe configuration, the grey cloth through pre-treatment is placed in above-mentioned dye liquor, adjust bath raio 1:5, be warming up to
125-130 DEG C of insulation 45min, after having dyeed, draining of lowering the temperature, carry out reduction cleaning；
Reactive dyeing process formula is as follows:
Sodium bicarbonate 0.5% o.w.f
Water softener 0.5% o.w.f
Levelling agent 0.2% o.w.f
Reactive dye 3-5% o.w.f
Matrii Sulfas Exsiccatus 20-40g/L
Soda 3-5g/l
Sheet alkali 0.5-1g/l；
Reactive dyeing process step is as follows: reactive dye, water softener, levelling agent, sodium bicarbonate are become by above-mentioned recipe configuration
Activity dye liquor, is placed in the grey cloth through dispersion dyeing in above-mentioned activity dye liquor, adjusts bath raio 1:5, use the speed of 1 DEG C/min
It is warming up to 60 DEG C, adds Matrii Sulfas Exsiccatus, be incubated 15min, add soda, sheet alkali, be incubated 45min, draining, then carry out next step
Soap washing；
(5), Final finishing:
Described finishing process formula is as follows:
Finishing agent 30-50g/L
Citric acid 0.5g/L；
Postfinishing process step is as follows: by said ratio, water, finishing agent and citric acid are configured to dressing liquid, after dyed
Fabric padding finishing liquid, padding machine pressure: 3.5-4kg, then use sizing speed 20-23 m/min, temperature 160-170 DEG C to dry
Sizing, gets product after inspection.
A kind of coffee-yarn blending the most according to claim 1 mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: described coffee
Yarn blending mixes knitted fabric and refers to use coffee mixed yarn or coffee Pure Yarn and two kinds of yarns of coffee mixed yarn, with other fibers
The mixed fabric knitted.
A kind of coffee-yarn blending the most according to claim 1 mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: described is refined
Clean auspicious LPA-G selects Yayun Texile Agents Co., Ltd., Shanghai to produce, and described chelated dispersants selects state of Ningbo City photoinitiator chemical
The chelated dispersants GF-108A that auxiliary agent industrial and trading company produces.
A kind of coffee-yarn blending the most according to claim 1 mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: described dispersion
In dyeing: disperse dyes select any one of high temperature modification disperse dyes.
A kind of coffee-yarn blending the most according to claim 4 mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: described dispersion
The black WHTS of dispersion of dye selection Zhejiang Longsheng Dye Chemical Co., Ltd, disperse black HW-BG or disperse blue WNBTS.
A kind of coffee-yarn blending the most according to claim 1 mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: described level dyeing
Agent selects the levelling agent M-2104C that Hangzhou Meigao Huayi Chemical Industry Co., Ltd produces.
A kind of coffee-yarn blending the most according to claim 1 mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: described dispersion
In dyeing: heating process is as follows: use the ramp of 2 DEG C/min under room temperature, after 70 DEG C, use 1 DEG C/min's
Ramp, after 90 DEG C, uses the ramp of 0.5 DEG C/min to 125-130 DEG C of insulation 45min, dyes after terminating with 2
DEG C/min rate of temperature fall is cooled to 80 DEG C of drainings.
A kind of coffee-yarn blending the most according to claim 1 mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: described activity
In dyeing: any one or more of warm type dark color reactive dye in reactive dye selection.
A kind of coffee-yarn blending the most according to claim 8 mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: described activity
In dyeing: reactive dye select black, carbuncle and any one or more of navy blue double-active group dark dye.
A kind of coffee-yarn blending the most according to claim 1 mixes the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: described soft
Water preparation selects water softener CT, and described levelling agent selects the Huo Meituoer C liquid that in Clariant chemical industry, Co., Ltd produces.
11. a kind of coffee-yarn blending according to claim 1 mix the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: described work
Property dyeing in: soda, the addition of sheet alkali divide 3 times and carry out, based on adding soda, the gross mass of sheet alkali in formula, for the first time
Adding the 1/4 of gross mass, second time adds the 1/4 of gross mass, and third time adds the 1/2 of gross mass.
12. a kind of coffee-yarn blending according to claim 1 mix the production technology of knitted fabric, it is characterised in that: Final finishing
In technique, described finishing agent uses the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing agent HS-TC-18 that Zhuhai Hua Da Hao Hong Chemical Co., Ltd. produces.
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