CN114214849A - Preparation method of functional environment-friendly worsted fabric and worsted fabric - Google Patents
Preparation method of functional environment-friendly worsted fabric and worsted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
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- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B23/00—Component parts, details, or accessories of apparatus or machines, specially adapted for the treating of textile materials, not restricted to a particular kind of apparatus, provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B21/00
- D06B23/20—Arrangements of apparatus for treating processing-liquids, -gases or -vapours, e.g. purification, filtration, distillation
- D06B23/22—Arrangements of apparatus for treating processing-liquids, -gases or -vapours, e.g. purification, filtration, distillation for heating
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C9/00—Singeing
- D06C9/02—Singeing by flame
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/41—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using basic dyes
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- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/653—Nitrogen-free carboxylic acids or their salts
- D06P1/6533—Aliphatic, araliphatic or cycloaliphatic
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- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
- D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
- D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
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- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
- D06P3/52—Polyesters
- D06P3/522—Polyesters using basic dyes
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- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/80—Inorganic fibres
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- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/02—After-treatment
Abstract
The invention discloses a preparation method of a functional environment-friendly worsted fabric, which comprises the steps of fiber dyeing, spinning, weaving and after-finishing, wherein the fibers comprise coffee yarn fibers, regenerated Coolmax fibers, Cordura fibers and wool fibers; the dyeing process of the coffee yarn fiber comprises the following steps; s1: loosening coffee yarn fibers, immersing the coffee yarn fibers in dye liquor, and heating and coloring; s2: finishing after coloring; the S1 dye solution comprises a first acid solution and a disperse dye, and the pH of the obtained dye solution is 5-6; the post-finishing of the coloring of S2 includes first water washing, reduction washing and second water washing. The blended yarn enhances the strength of the yarn, is convenient for spinning, and the obtained fabric has good ultraviolet resistance, peculiar smell inhibition and moisture absorption quick-drying property; the dyeing process of the coffee yarn fiber not only improves the color fastness of the coffee yarn fiber, but also solves the problem of homochromatic difference. The invention also discloses a functional environment-friendly worsted fabric.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of a preparation method of a worsted fabric, in particular to a preparation method of a functional environment-friendly worsted fabric and the worsted fabric.
Background
In modern life, people have higher requirements on the comfort level, the environmental protection, the multifunction and the like of the clothing fabric. The technology, fashion and green become new labels and new symbols of the modern textile industry, the green transformation and upgrade of the textile industry become the research direction of technicians in the field, and the selection of green fiber raw materials is an important way for designing and producing green ecological products and is a main means for improving the value of spinning products.
The coffee fiber (S.Caf é fiber) textile has excellent performances of odor absorption and removal, heat storage and heat preservation, ultraviolet resistance and the like, and is one of representatives of novel green environment-friendly fibers. However, coffee yarn fabrics, especially coffee yarn blended and blended fabrics, cannot be applied in a large scale. The main reasons are as follows: firstly, the microstructure inside the coffee yarn fiber is changed due to the addition of coffee carbon particles, gaps and holes of an aggregation structure are increased, the orientation degree of the fiber is reduced, the extension elasticity and fatigue resistance of the fiber are weakened, the fiber is easy to break in weaving, and the difficulty in processing and spinning is increased. Secondly, gaps and holes on the surface of coffee yarn fiber and inside the fiber can generate a quick wicking effect during dyeing, the level dyeing processing difficulty of the coffee yarn blended and blended fabric is increased, and the problems of abnormal color, firm dyeing chromaticity and the like are easy to exist in dyeing. Thirdly, the temperature in the after-finishing process is improperly controlled, so that the migration is easy to generate, the fiber friction and washing fastness are reduced, the color light is changed, and the like.
The Coolmax fiber is a hollow fiber, the cross section of the Coolmax fiber is in a four-tube shape, the wall of the fiber tube is breathable, and the regenerated Coolmax fiber has good moisture absorption, sweat releasing and air permeability and is one of representatives of novel green environment-friendly fibers. Coolmax fiber is porous superfine modified polyester fiber, and when the polyester fiber is dyed by a conventional polyester dyeing method, the dyeing rate is low, the color fastness is poor, the polyester fiber is easy to dye, and more problems exist in practical application, so that the wide application of the polyester fiber is limited.
The special structure of the Cordura fabric endows the Cordura fabric with excellent wear resistance, tearing resistance, unrivaled strength, good hand feeling, light weight, softness, stable color, easy nursing and the like. However, Cordura fibers have poor level-dyeing properties, poor color development or depth of dyeing, and low color fastness.
The multifunctional fiber blended spinning can fully combine the advantages of different fibers to weave the fabric with comprehensive performance. Overcomes the defects of all fibers, develops the environment-friendly spinning fabric integrating good functionality, color fastness and wear resistance, and the preparation process of environmental protection is the technical problem to be solved by technical personnel in the field.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provide a preparation method of a functional environment-friendly worsted fabric.
In order to realize the process effect, the technical scheme of the invention is as follows: a preparation method of a functional environment-friendly worsted fabric comprises fiber dyeing, spinning, weaving and after finishing, wherein the fiber comprises coffee yarn fiber, regenerated Coolmax fiber, Cordura fiber and wool fiber;
the dyeing process of the coffee yarn fiber comprises the following steps:
s1: loosening coffee yarn fibers, immersing the coffee yarn fibers in dye liquor, and heating and coloring;
s2: finishing after coloring;
the S1 dye solution comprises a first acid solution and a disperse dye, and the pH of the obtained dye solution is 5-6;
the S2 colored after-treatment comprises first water washing, reduction washing and second water washing, wherein the temperature of the first water washing and the temperature of the second water washing are both 50-70 ℃, and the time is 5-10 min.
The fiber dyeing middle-stripe dyeing comprises dyeing, backwashing, wool piecing, stripe mixing, front needle combing, combing and rear needle combing. The spinning comprises mixing, first needle, second needle, third needle, first thick, second thick, spun yarn, spooling, doubling, double twisting and yarn steaming. The weaving comprises warping, drafting, weaving, blank inspection and raw repair. In order to fully card the fibers and reduce the wool particles, the carding speed is 780-810 r/min. When the spinning workshop is produced, in order to reduce yarn hairiness and ensure yarn quality, the pre-spinning temperature is 25-28 ℃, and the relative humidity is 78-85%; the spun yarn temperature is 26-27 ℃, and the relative humidity is 70-80%. The strength of the spun yarn is determined by the twist of the roving, the spun yarn with overlarge twist is not easy to retract, the broken ends of the roving are more when the spun yarn with undersize twist is on a machine, the accidental drafting is easy to occur, further, the weight of the discharged sliver is 0.35-0.4 g/m, the twist of the roving is 40-50 twists, and the speed of the discharged sliver is 135-142 m/min; furthermore, the speed of the spinning frame is 7500-8000 r/min. In order to optimize and ensure the quality of the yarn, the spooling speed is 780-810 m/min, the doubling speed is 480-520 m/min, and the double-twist spindle speed is 7500-8200 r/min. In order to eliminate internal stress of the yarns and prevent wool surface defects generated in subsequent weaving, the yarns are further steamed and stored for more than 24 hours. In order to form hairiness coating on the surface of the yarn and prevent unclear shed and easy generation of weaving defects such as jumping flowers and cobweb, further, warping is yarn sizing, and the sizing is 8-12%; furthermore, the height of the back beam is-1 cm, and the warp stop frame is 1.5-2.3 cm. On the basis of small opening and small tension of a weaving machine, further, the leveling time is 315-320 degrees.
In order to uniformly dye the coffee yarn fiber, improve the color fastness of the coffee yarn fiber and prevent the disperse dye from appearing phenomena such as flocculence, agglomeration and the like, the preferable technical scheme is as follows: the heating and coloring process of S1 comprises a first stage of heating and a second stage of heating, wherein the first stage of heating is carried out at a heating rate of 17-18 ℃/min to 90-96 ℃; and the temperature of the second stage is increased to 128-133 ℃ at the temperature increasing rate of 0.5-1.5 ℃/min, and the temperature is kept for 48-55 min. The preparation method of the dyeing liquid of the coffee yarn fiber comprises the following steps: heating water in a dye vat to 58-62 ℃, adding a first acid solution, adding a disperse dye, and uniformly mixing, wherein the pH value of the obtained dye solution is 5-6. Wool tops with too low pH value are easy to be colored and stained, and the dyeing liquor with too high pH value is unclear. Further, the first acid solution is acetic acid.
In order to remove disperse dyes attached to the surface layer of the fiber, further improve the color fastness of the coffee yarn and realize the high-efficiency and energy-saving effects, the preferable technical scheme is as follows: the post-finishing process of the coloring of the S2 comprises a first water washing, a reduction washing and a second water washing, wherein the reduction washing is an acid reduction washing liquid, the pH value of the reduction washing liquid is 3-3.5, the temperature is 80-90 ℃, and the time is 18-25 min. Further, the acidic reducing cleaning solution is an acidic reducing cleaning solution BOR.
In order to improve the dyeing rate of the Coolmax fiber and overcome the defects of dyeing and poor color fastness of the Coolmax fiber, the preferable technical scheme is as follows: the dyeing process of the Coolmax fiber comprises the following steps:
s1': preparing a dye solution;
s2': heating and coloring, and cooling for post-finishing coloring;
the heating and coloring process of S2' comprises a first-stage heating process, a second-stage heating process and a third-stage heating process, wherein the first-stage heating process is carried out to 68-72 ℃, and the heating speed is 1-1.5 ℃/min; the temperature of the second section is raised to 98-102 ℃, and the temperature raising speed is 0.4-0.5 ℃/min; and heating the three sections to 115-120 ℃, wherein the heating speed is 0.5-0.6 ℃/min, and the temperature is kept for 30-60 min. Further, the temperature is raised to 70-72 ℃ in the first section, and the temperature raising speed is 1-1.3 ℃/min; heating the second stage to 98-100 ℃, wherein the heating speed is 0.4-0.45 ℃/min; and heating the three sections to 117-120 ℃, wherein the heating speed is 0.5-0.6 ℃/min, and the heat preservation time is 30-60 min. The heat preservation time after the three-stage temperature rise is determined by the percentage content of the light-color dye in the dye liquor, the light-color dye accounts for less than 5% of the dye liquor, and the heat preservation time is 30-40 min; the light-color dye accounts for more than 5% of the dye solution, and the heat preservation time is 40-60 min.
In order to optimize the dye liquor of Coolmax fiber, the preferable technical scheme is as follows: the S1' dye solution comprises a second acid solution, a retarding agent and a cationic dye, and the pH value of the obtained dye solution is 5-6. Further, the second acid solution is acetic acid, and the slow-dyeing agent is anhydrous sodium sulphate. Furthermore, the dye solution of Coolmax fiber comprises 1g/L of acetic acid, 6g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate and x% of cationic dye, wherein x is more than 0 and less than or equal to 6. Cationic dye x% represents the percentage of cationic dye to the total mass of the Coolmax fiber dope.
In order to improve Cordura fibre's exhaustion rate and colour fastness, prevent the appearance of defects such as Cordura fibre colour flower or inside and outside colour difference, and realize energy-conserving effect, preferred technical scheme is: the dyeing process of the Cordura fiber comprises the following steps:
s1': preparing dye solution, heating and coloring;
s2': preserving heat, coloring and soaping;
s3': fixing color;
the S1' dye solution comprises a penetrant, an acidic leveling agent, a third acid solution and a Lanna spilled dye, and the pH value of the obtained dye solution is 4-5;
the heating and coloring process of S1 comprises a first-stage heating and a second-stage heating, wherein the first-stage heating is carried out to 65-75 ℃, and the heating speed is 0.85-1.15 ℃/min; the temperature of the second section is raised to 95-105 ℃, and the temperature raising speed is 0.6-0.8 ℃/min.
Further, the third acid solution is acetic acid. Further, the penetrant is ALBAFLOW FFW and the acidic leveling agent is ALBEGAL SET. Furthermore, according to the total mass percentage of the components in the dye solution, the dye solution comprises 0.4-0.6% of ALBAFLOW FFW, 0.4-0.6% of ALBEGAL SET, 3.5-4.5% of acetic acid, 3.5-4.5% of Lanna dye, and the balance of water.
In order to further improve the exhaustion rate and the color fastness of Cordura fibers, the preferable technical scheme is as follows: the specific operation of S2 "includes: and (3) carrying out heat preservation and coloring on the first section for 8-10 min, adding a third acid solution, wherein the pH value of the obtained dye solution is 3-4, carrying out heat preservation and coloring on the second section for 60-70 min, carrying out heat preservation and soaping on the third section for 10-12 min, and draining.
In order to optimize the color fixing solution and improve the color fastness of the Cordura fiber, the preferable technical scheme is as follows: the color fixing solution for the color fixing of S3 'comprises a third acid liquid and Debao ASN, the color fixing temperature of S3' is 35-40 ℃, and the color fixing and heat preservation time is 20-22 min.
In order to ensure that the finished product has good elasticity, apparent mass, stable physical form and uniform color, the soft and smooth hand feeling and dimensional stability of the fabric are ensured, and the change of the color light of the fabric is reduced, the finished fabric has smaller piece difference, the preferred technical scheme is as follows: the post-finishing comprises primary singeing, continuous boiling, wool washing, primary drying, heat setting, secondary singeing, washing, secondary drying, pot steaming, hydrophilic finishing and decating; the temperature of the pot steaming is 98-102 ℃, and the time is 4-6 min. The molecular chain segment of the amorphous area of the fiber moves strongly at high temperature to generate instant gaps, so that the dye micromolecules of the fiber are dissolved on the fiber to dye; the low-temperature pot steaming can solve the problem that gaps in a fiber microporous structure are blocked due to deposition of a small amount of dyeing molecules, and prevent the color of the fabric from being changed due to migration generated after the subsequent hydrophilic finishing padding and drying. In order to realize stable size and stable shrinkage, the heat setting temperature is 175-185 ℃, the vehicle speed is 40-45 m/min, and the feeding rate is 3-6%. In order to further optimize the effect of quick moisture absorption of the fabric, improve the problem of cloth surface ring print and avoid the problem of color change of the fabric in the post-treatment process, the hydrophilizing agent is AS-23F, the drying temperature of the hydrophilizing agent after padding is 92-98 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 28-35 m/min. In order to remove long hairiness on the surface of the grey cloth and control the strength of damaged fabric, further, the first singeing is soft flame on the front side and the back side, and the machine speed is 95-105 m/min. In order to clean the surface hair ash and carry out primary shaping on the fabric, further, the continuous boiling temperature is 85-92 ℃ and the time is 18-22 s. In order to clean the surface of the woolen cloth and wash away the floating color, and achieve better hand feeling, further, the speed of the woolen cloth washing machine is 115-125 m/min, and the time is 45-52 min. In order to carry out setting from wet to dry, further, the first drying and the second drying are both steam heating drying. In order to make the surface of the fabric smoother and improve the pilling index, the second singeing is a front surface, and the machine speed is 95-105 m/min. In order to maintain the hydrophilic and moisture-absorbing effect of the fabric and endow the fabric with soft and elastic hand feeling and good drapability, the decating is normal pressure, the temperature is 85-90 ℃, and the steam inlet time is 10-20 min.
The second purpose of the invention is to overcome the defects in the prior art and provide a functional environment-friendly worsted fabric, the fabric is prepared by the preparation method of the functional environment-friendly worsted fabric, and the fibers of the fabric comprise 25-30% of coffee yarn fibers, 20-30% of regenerated Coolmax fibers, 10-20% of Cordura fibers and 35-50% of wool fibers in percentage by mass.
The invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that:
the yarns are blended by coffee yarn fibers, regenerated Coolmax fibers, wool fibers and Cordura fibers, so that the strength of the yarns is enhanced, the yarns are convenient to spin, and the obtained fabric has good ultraviolet resistance, peculiar smell inhibition and moisture absorption quick-drying property; in the dyeing process of the coffee yarn fiber, the S1 dye solution comprises the first acid solution and the disperse dye, and the colored back finishing of the S2 is carried out through the first washing, the reduction washing and the second washing, so that the color fastness of the coffee yarn fiber is improved, the problem of same color difference is solved, and the process is energy-saving, efficient, green and environment-friendly.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph of a process for dyeing coffee yarn fibers of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a graph of the dyeing process for regenerated Coolmax fibers of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a graph of a dyeing process for Cordura fibers of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The following further describes embodiments of the present invention with reference to examples. The following examples are only for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention more clearly, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby.
Acidic reducing cleaning agent BOR: manufactured by Yongxin Burlington (Shanghai) chemical technology, Inc.;
singeing machine: OSTHOFF-SENGE, Germany;
spinning frame fine spinning EJ 519;
a weaving machine Sulshozu Switzerland G6300 small rapier loom;
the dyeing and dyeing process of the wool fiber comprises the following specific operations: heating water in a dye vat to 40-45 ℃, adding an auxiliary agent, adding a dye, uniformly mixing, heating to 90-95 ℃ at a heating rate of 0.4-1.5 ℃/min, keeping the temperature for 55-60 min, keeping the temperature for soaping for 10-15 min, and draining. The auxiliary agent comprises a leveling agent, a pH regulator and acid liquor, the dye comprises SELMALAN yellow S-2G, SELMALAN red S-GN and SELMALAN grey S-GS, and the dye liquor comprises, by mass percent, ALBEGAL SET 0.5%, thiamine 1.5%, acetic acid 1.5%, SELMALAN yellow S-2G 0.14%, SELMALAN red S-GN 0.125% and SELMALAN grey S-GS 1.5%.
Example 1
As shown in figures 1-3, the functional environment-friendly worsted fabric is 1/1 plain weave, the yarn count of the warp and the weft is 48/2Nm, and the gram weight is 195g/m2The breadth is 156cm, the warp density is 228/10cm, and the weft density is 208/10 cm.
The composition of the fibers was 25% by mass of coffee yarn fibers, 25% by mass of regenerated Coolmax fibers, 40% by mass of wool fibers, and 10% by mass of Cordura fibers.
The preparation method of the functional environment-friendly worsted fabric comprises fiber dyeing, spinning, weaving and after finishing, wherein the after finishing comprises primary singeing, continuous boiling, wool washing, primary drying, heat setting, secondary singeing, washing, secondary drying, tank steaming, hydrophilic finishing and decating;
the strip dyeing comprises dyeing, backwashing, wool piecing, strip mixing, front gilling, combing and rear gilling. The carding speed is 780-810 r/min.
The spinning comprises mixing, first needle, second needle, third needle, first thick, second thick, spun yarn, spooling, doubling, double twisting and yarn steaming. The number of the mixed strips is 7, and the mixed strip drafting is 7; the number of the head needles combined is 7, and the drafting of the head needles is 7.5; the number of the two needles combined is 3, and the drafting of the two needles is 7.5; the number of the three-needle combination is 3, and the three-needle drafting is 7; the number of the coarse heads is 2, and the coarse head drafting is 9.2; the number of the second coarse combination is 4, and the head needle draft is 9; when the spinning workshop is used for production, the front spinning temperature is 26 ℃, and the relative humidity is 82%; the spun yarn temperature was 27 ℃ and the relative humidity was 74%. The weight of the drawn sliver is 0.37g/m, the twist of the roving is 45 twists, and the speed of the drawn sliver is 140 m/min. The speed of the spinning frame is 7800 r/min. The spooling speed is 800m/min, the doubling speed is 500m/min, and the two-for-one twisting spindle speed is 8000 r/min. The yarn steaming temperature is 88 deg.C, and the time is 15 min. And storing for 24 hours after the yarn is formed and steamed.
The weaving comprises warping, drafting, weaving, blank inspection and raw repair. Warping is yarn sizing, and the sizing is 10%; the height of the back beam is 0cm, and the warp stop frame is 2 cm. The weaving machine has a leveling time of 318 degrees on the basis of small opening and small tension.
The first singeing is soft flame on the front and back sides, and the machine speed is 100 m/min;
the continuous cooking temperature is 90 ℃ and the time is 20 s;
the speed of the washing machine is 120m/min, the time is 50min, and the washing machine washes for 20 min;
the first drying and the second drying are both steam heating drying, the temperature is 120 ℃, the breadth is 160cm, and the overfeeding is 5%;
the heat setting temperature is 180 ℃, the time is 30min, the vehicle speed is 42m/min, the breadth is 160cm, and the overfeeding is 5 percent;
the second singeing is the front side, and the machine speed is 100 m/min;
steaming at 100 deg.C for 5 min;
the hydrophilic finishing temperature is 95 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 30 m/min;
the decating is normal pressure, and the steam admission time is 8 min.
The dyeing process of the coffee yarn fiber comprises the following steps:
s1: loosening coffee yarn fibers, immersing the coffee yarn fibers in dye liquor, and heating and coloring;
s2: finishing after coloring;
the colored after-treatment comprises first water washing, reduction washing and second water washing, wherein the temperature of the first water washing and the second water washing is 65 ℃, and the time is 10 min; the reduction cleaning is acid reduction cleaning liquid, the acid reduction cleaning liquid comprises 1.0g/L of acetic acid and 1.8g/L of BOR, the temperature is 85 ℃, and the time is 20 min.
The preparation method of the dyeing liquid of the coffee yarn fiber comprises the following steps: heating water in a dye vat to 60 ℃, adding 0.4g/L of acetic acid, adding 6.7g/L of disperse dye, and uniformly mixing, wherein the pH value of a dye solution is 5.7. The disperse dyes are yellow brown S-4RL, disperse red jade S-5BL and disperse deep blue S-2G, and the mass ratio of the yellow brown S-4RL, the disperse red jade S-5BL and the disperse deep blue S-2G is 5: 12: 50.
the coloring procedure of the coffee yarn fiber comprises a first section of temperature rise and a second section of temperature rise, wherein the first section of temperature rise is carried out to 95 ℃ at the temperature rise rate of 17.5 ℃/min; in the second stage, the temperature is raised to 132 ℃ at the temperature raising rate of 0.9 ℃/min, and the temperature is kept for 50 min.
The dyeing process of Coolmax fiber comprises the following steps:
s1': preparing a dye solution;
s2': heating and coloring, and cooling for post-finishing coloring;
s2', the heating and coloring process comprises a first-stage heating, a second-stage heating and a third-stage heating, wherein the first-stage heating is carried out to 70 ℃, and the heating speed is 1.2 ℃/min; the temperature is increased to 100 ℃ in the second stage, and the temperature rising speed is 0.43 ℃/min; and the temperature is raised to 118 ℃ in three stages, the temperature raising speed is 0.52 ℃/min, and the heat preservation time is 60 min.
The dye solution of Coolmax fiber comprises 1g/L of acetic acid, 6g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate and cationic dye. The cationic dye comprises cationic yellow X-8G, cationic red X-GRL and cationic blue X-GRRL.
According to the percentage of each cationic dye in the total mass of the dye solution, 0.65 percent of cationic yellow X-8G, 0.78 percent of cationic red X-GRL, 0.68 percent of cationic blue X-GRRL and the balance of water.
Dye liquor preparation of Coolmax fiber: heating water in a dye vat to 40 ℃, adding 1g/L of acetic acid and 6g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate, adding cationic dye, and uniformly mixing, wherein the pH value of a dye solution of Coolmax fiber is 5.6.
And (S2'), washing with water at 100 deg.c for 10 min.
The dyeing process of the Cordura fiber comprises the following steps:
s1': preparing dye solution, heating and coloring;
s2': preserving heat, coloring and soaping;
s3': fixing color;
s1, heating water in a dye vat to 40 ℃ to obtain a dye solution with the pH of 4-5, wherein the dye solution is ALBAFLOW FFW, ALBEGAL SET, acetic acid and Lanna spilled dyes;
according to the total mass percentage of all the components in the dye liquor, the dye liquor comprises 0.5 percent of ALBAFLOW FFW, 0.5 percent of ALBEGAL SET, 4 percent of acetic acid, 4 percent of Lanna jet black B dye and the balance of water.
S1, the heating and coloring process comprises a first-stage heating and a second-stage heating, wherein the first-stage heating is carried out to 70 ℃, and the heating speed is 1 ℃/min; the temperature of the second stage is raised to 100 ℃, and the temperature raising speed is 0.67 ℃/min.
The specific operations of S2 "include: coloring for 10min at the first stage, adding acetic acid to obtain dye solution with pH of 3.7, coloring for 60min at the second stage, soaping for 10min at the third stage, and draining.
S3' color fixing solution is acetic acid and Debaoshen, color fixing temperature is 38 deg.C, color fixing and heat preservation are carried out for 20 min.
Example 2
Example 2 is based on example 1 with the difference that in the dyeing process of Coolmax fiber, the dye of the dye liquor S1' is disperse deep blue S-3BG 5%, 0.42% acetic acid is added at the dyeing starting temperature of 40 ℃ and the dye liquor is heated to 118 ℃ and is kept warm for 60min, and the fiber is subjected to reduction post-treatment and is cooled and taken out of a cylinder.
Example 3
Example 3 is based on example 1, with the difference that in the dyeing process of Cordura fibres, the specific operations of S2 "comprise: coloring for 60min in the first stage, soaping for 10min in the second stage, and draining.
Example 4
Example 4 is based on example 1, with the difference that in the dyeing process of Cordura fibres, the specific operations of S2 "comprise: coloring for 10min under heat preservation in the first stage, adding acetic acid to obtain dye solution with pH of 3.7, coloring for 60min under heat preservation in the second stage, and soaping for 10min after cooling to 60 deg.C.
Example 5
Example 5 is based on example 1 with the difference that the pot temperature is 120 ℃.
Comparative example 1
Comparative example 1 is based on example 1 with the difference that in the dyeing process of coffee yarn fiber, the post-finishing of the coloring of S2 does not include the first water washing, the direct reduction washing and the water washing, the temperature of the water washing is 65 ℃ and the time is 20 min.
Comparative example 2
Comparative example 2 is based on example 1 with the difference that in the dyeing process of coffee yarn fibres the post-finishing of the colouring of S2 does not comprise a reduction wash, only a first and a second water wash.
Comparative example 3
Comparative example 3 is based on example 1 with the difference that in the dyeing process of coffee yarn fibers, the post-finishing of the coloring of S2 is alkaline washing, acid washing again and water washing.
Detection of fiber color fastness
1. Washing color fastness: GB/T26382-2011 Standard of combed wool fabrics;
2. soaping fastness: GB/T26382-2011 Standard of combed wool fabrics;
3. dry and wet rubbing fastness: GB/T26382-2011 Standard of combed wool fabrics;
4. fastness to perspiration: GB/T26382-2011 Standard of combed wool fabrics;
color detection instrument:
DL, Da, Db: the spectrocolorimeter Daraclor 800.
The results of the coffee yarn fiber measurements are shown in the following table:
| item | Example 1 | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Comparative example 3 |
| DL value | 49.69 | 47.52 | 48.62 | 49.25 |
| Da value | 0.35 | 0.42 | 0.39 | 0.37 |
| Db value | -1.49 | -1.35 | -1.42 | -1.15 |
| Washing fastness/grade | 4 | 3 | 3-4 | 4 |
| Fastness to perspiration/grade | 4 | 3 | 3-4 | 4- |
| Dry rub fastness/grade | 4 | 2-3 | 3 | 4- |
| Wet rub fastness/grade | 4 | 3 | 3-4 | 4- |
The results of the Coolmax fiber measurements are shown in the following Table:
the results of the Cordura fiber measurements are shown in the following table:
| item | Example 1 | Example 3 | Example 4 |
| DL value | 15.21 | 17.21 | 15.62 |
| Da value | 0.06 | 0.05 | 0.07 |
| Db value | -1.42 | -1.67 | -1.38 |
| Washing fastness/grade | 4 | 4 | 4- |
| Fastness to perspiration/grade | 4 | 4 | 4- |
| Dry rub fastness/grade | 4 | 4- | 4 |
| Wet rub fastness/grade | 4 | 3-4 | 4- |
The evaluation method has evaluation grade differences of grade 1, grade 1-2, grade 2-3, grade 3-4, grade 4-5 and grade 5. Maximum level 1 difference and minimum level 5 difference
The color light detection standards of the fabrics of example 1 and example 5 are as follows: the color change is evaluated according to the national standard by using a gray sample card GB/T250-2008, ISO 105/A02-1993.
The evaluation grade difference is evaluated from grade 1, grade 1-2, grade 2-3, grade 3-4, grade 4-5 and grade 5; the difference of grade 1 is the largest, the difference of grade 5 is the smallest, and grade 4-5 is acceptable for batch production. The number of technicians participating in the evaluation was 10. The overall evaluation results are shown in the following table:
the foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, various modifications and decorations can be made without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, and these modifications and decorations should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A preparation method of a functional environment-friendly worsted fabric comprises fiber dyeing, spinning, weaving and after finishing, and is characterized in that the fiber comprises coffee yarn fiber, regenerated Coolmax fiber, Cordura fiber and wool fiber;
the dyeing process of the coffee yarn fiber comprises the following steps:
s1: loosening coffee yarn fibers, immersing the coffee yarn fibers in dye liquor, and heating and coloring;
s2: finishing after coloring;
the S1 dye solution comprises a first acid solution and a disperse dye, and the pH of the obtained dye solution is 5-6;
the S2 colored after-treatment comprises first water washing, reduction washing and second water washing, wherein the temperature of the first water washing and the temperature of the second water washing are both 50-70 ℃, and the time is 5-10 min.
2. The preparation method of the functional environment-friendly worsted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the step of heating and coloring S1 comprises a first stage heating and a second stage heating, wherein the first stage heating is carried out at a heating rate of 17-18 ℃/min to 90-96 ℃; and the temperature of the second stage is increased to 128-133 ℃ at the temperature increasing rate of 0.5-1.5 ℃/min, and the temperature is kept for 48-55 min.
3. The preparation method of the functional environment-friendly worsted fabric as claimed in claim 2, wherein the step of S2 coloring post-finishing comprises a first water washing step, a reduction washing step and a second water washing step, wherein the reduction washing step is an acidic reduction washing solution, the pH value of the reduction washing solution is 3-3.5, the temperature is 80-90 ℃, and the time is 18-25 min.
4. The method for preparing the functional environment-friendly worsted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing process of the Coolmax fiber comprises the following steps:
s1': preparing a dye solution;
s2': heating and coloring, and cooling for post-finishing coloring;
the heating and coloring process of S2' comprises a first-stage heating process, a second-stage heating process and a third-stage heating process, wherein the first-stage heating process is carried out to 68-72 ℃, and the heating speed is 1-1.5 ℃/min; the temperature of the second section is raised to 98-102 ℃, and the temperature raising speed is 0.4-0.5 ℃/min; and heating the three sections to 115-120 ℃, wherein the heating speed is 0.5-0.6 ℃/min, and the temperature is kept for 30-60 min.
5. The preparation method of the functional environment-friendly worsted fabric as claimed in claim 4, wherein the S1' dye solution comprises a second acid solution, a retarding agent and a cationic dye, and the pH of the obtained dye solution is 5-6.
6. The method for preparing functional environment-friendly worsted fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the dyeing process of the Cordura fiber comprises the following steps:
s1': preparing dye solution, heating and coloring;
s2': preserving heat, coloring and soaping;
s3': fixing color;
the S1 '' dye solution comprises a penetrant, an acidic leveling agent, a third acid solution and a Lanna spilled dye, and the pH value of the obtained dye solution is 4-5;
the S1 '' heating and coloring process comprises a first-stage heating and a second-stage heating, wherein the first-stage heating is carried out to 65-75 ℃, and the heating speed is 0.85-1.15 ℃/min; the temperature of the second section is raised to 95-105 ℃, and the temperature raising speed is 0.6-0.8 ℃/min.
7. The method for preparing functional environment-friendly worsted fabric according to claim 6, wherein the specific operation of S2 ″ comprises: and (3) carrying out heat preservation and coloring on the first section for 8-10 min, adding a third acid solution, wherein the pH value of the obtained dye solution is 3-4, carrying out heat preservation and coloring on the second section for 60-70 min, carrying out heat preservation and soaping on the third section for 10-12 min, and draining.
8. The preparation method of the functional environment-friendly worsted fabric as claimed in claim 6, wherein the color fixing solution for S3 ″ color fixing comprises a third acid solution and Dejabao ASN, the color fixing temperature of S3 ″ is 35-40 ℃, and the color fixing temperature is kept for 20-22 min.
9. The method for preparing the functional environment-friendly worsted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the after-finishing comprises primary singeing, continuous boiling, washing, primary drying, heat setting, secondary singeing, rinsing, secondary drying, pot steaming, hydrophilic finishing and decating; the temperature of the pot steaming is 98-102 ℃, and the time is 4-6 min.
10. The functional environment-friendly worsted fabric is characterized by being prepared by the preparation method of the functional environment-friendly worsted fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein fibers of the fabric comprise 25 to 30% by mass of coffee yarn fibers, 20 to 30% by mass of regenerated Coolmax fibers, 10 to 20% by mass of Cordura fibers and 35 to 50% by mass of wool fibers.
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