JP2014169523A - Sewn product made of animal hair fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a sewn product made of an animal hair fiber which is excellent in shrink-resistance, and has appearance with casual feeling without using resin for bonding between fibre and a chlorine-based agent.SOLUTION: A fabric and a knitted material formed of an animal hair fiber (wool, cashmere, angora, mohair, alpaca) which is subjected to shrink proofing by the ozone are used for sewing, and after sewing the product, the product is dyed or washed, or both of them are performed. The sewn product from the animal hair fiber having excellent shrink resistance, and having appearance with casual feeling, is provided. The animal hair fiber is cashmere, angora, mohair, alpaca, or wool.

Description

  The present invention relates to a sewn product made of animal hair fibers, and more particularly, to a sewn product made of animal hair fibers having excellent shrinkage resistance and a casual appearance.

  Today's casual clothing is dominated by products with a vintage look and unique texture. These commodities are produced by product washing or product dyeing, and materials are mainly cotton, polyester, nylon and blended products thereof. However, almost no such casual clothing has been produced for animal hair fiber materials. This is because a large amount of shrinkage due to felting occurs during normal product washing and product dyeing processes in a normal animal hair fiber material.

  On the other hand, treatment of animal hair fiber with cotton or thread with chemicals such as chlorine to modify the scale that causes felt on the surface of animal hair fiber, or after modifying the scale, the entire fiber is made of polyamide resin. Shrink-proof processed products that achieve shrink-proofing are produced by coating, but since these animal hair fibers have reduced frictional resistance on the fiber surface, the slip resistance is remarkably poor, and product dyeing and product During the washing process, the seam is particularly damaged, and the intended product cannot be obtained. Furthermore, in the case of chlorinated chemicals, the use of these chlorinated chemicals is increasing due to the environmental pollution problem that AOX (adsorptive organic halogen compound) is generated from residual chlorine contained in wastewater. Industrial production is expected to become difficult in the near future.

  In addition, the fabric made of animal hair is covered with urethane-based resin, and the fibers are bonded together to produce shrink-proof products that achieve shrink-proofing. Dyeing causes color spots, resulting in a high defective product rate, making industrial production difficult, and bonding the fibers with resin makes the texture rough, making it impossible to obtain a product with a natural feel.

  The present invention has been made in view of such a situation, and has an excellent shrinkage resistance and a casual appearance without using a chlorinated chemical or a resin for interfiber bonding. The present invention provides a sewing product comprising animal hair fibers.

  The present invention achieves the above-mentioned object and has the following configuration. That is, the present invention relates to a garment or knitted fabric made of animal hair fibers that has been shrink-proofed by ozone, and the product is dyed and / or washed after sewing the product. Is a summary. In addition, the sewing product at the time of product dyeing and product washing may be undyed or dyed, and the present invention is useful in either case.

  The animal hair fibers that have been shrink-proofed by ozone have a high degree of shrinkage resistance, so that felt shrinkage that is a problem in the product dyeing or product washing process, which has been a problem with wool that has not been subjected to shrink-proofing processing, may occur. Does not occur.

  In addition, the animal hair fiber that has been shrink-proofed by ozone has a high coefficient of friction on the fiber surface. Therefore, the animal hair fiber that has been treated with chlorine and the animal hair fiber that has been treated with chlorine and then coated with a polyamide-based resin or the like. The seam is not damaged due to the low sliding resistance, which was a problem when using.

  In addition, since the animal hair fibers that have been shrink-proofed by ozone do not require a resin, there is a problem with woven or knitted fabrics using animal hair fibers that are coated with the urethane-based resin or the like used for the purpose of inter-fiber bonding. No color spots are caused by the resin coating spots.

  In addition, the animal hair fiber that has been shrink-proofed by ozone has a natural texture and water repellency inherent to wool, and has a rich stretch property.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The animal hair fibers used in the present invention are wool, cashmere, mohair, alpaca, Angola, camel and the like, and wool is particularly preferable. Moreover, these animal hair fibers and plant fibers such as cotton and hemp, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra and polynosic, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, polyester, polyacrylonitrile, polyamide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyurethane, polyethylene, polyimide, etc. It may be a mixed product with synthetic fibers, as long as at least a part of animal hair fibers is included. Preferably, the mixing ratio of animal hair fibers is 30% or more, and particularly preferably animal hair fibers are used as the fibers.

  In the present invention, first, animal fiber treated with ozone is spun by the method described in Japanese Patent No. 3722708 or Japanese Patent No. 3723520. For spinning conditions, the spinning method is appropriately selected from a ring method, a self-twist method, a mule method, an open end method, an air spinning method, etc., and the yarn count is 1/10 Nm to 1/100 Nm, preferably in terms of single yarn From 1/15 Nm to 1/50 Nm.

  Fabrics and knitted fabrics are manufactured using the spun yarn. When producing a woven fabric, the loom can be appropriately selected from shuttle loom, rapier loom, gripper loom, jet loom, and the like. As for knitting, for circular knitting machines, sinker base knitting machines, suspension knitting machines, tompkin knitting machines, milling knitting machines, smooth knitting machines, and flat knitting machines, rib knitting machines, double-sided knitting machines, double-head knitting machines, warp knitting machines Then, a tricot knitting machine, a Russell knitting machine or the like can be selected as appropriate.

  Casual fabrics such as shirts, trousers and jackets are sewn using the woven and knitted fabrics. In the present invention, product dyeing or product washing is performed on the sewn product. In product dyeing, it is possible to use dyes used for dyeing general animal hair fibers. Specifically, direct dyes, acid dyes, alloy dyes, chromium mordant dyes, basic dyes, vat dyes, sulfur dyes, azo dyes, disperse dyes, reactive dyes, pigments, etc. are reacted in or on the fiber surface. The animal hair fiber can be colored. As a device for dyeing animal hair fibers in the state of sewing products or washing products, generally used product processing devices can be used. Specifically, rotary dyeing machines, paddle dyeing machines, etc. These are also used as washing machines for washing products. When animal hair fibers are dyed at the stage of cotton, yarn, woven fabric, knitted fabric, etc., a normal dyeing machine can be used according to the state of each fiber, specifically, overmeyer, cheese dyeing machine, Examples include an anther dyeing machine, an expansion type continuous dyeing machine, a wins reel dyeing machine, and a liquid flow type dyeing machine.

  In addition, product washing is a process that gives the desired texture and appearance to the sewing product using the product dyeing machine described above. Specifically, washing at low temperatures, hot water washing at high temperatures, Various techniques such as bio-wash and stone-wash can be applied. The present invention is configured as described above.

Moreover, as a process which manufactures this invention product, the following combinations are raised, for example.
(1) The product is dyed after sewing the product using a woven or knitted fabric made of animal hair fibers that has been subjected to ozone treatment. (2) A product is sewn using a woven or knitted fabric made of animal hair fibers that has been subjected to ozone treatment, and product washing is performed after product dyeing. (3) Dye a woven or knitted fabric made of animal hair fibers that has been subjected to ozone treatment, sew the product, and then wash the product. (4) A fabric or knitted fabric made of animal hair fibers that has been subjected to ozone treatment is dyed, the product is sewn, and then product dyeing is performed. (5) Dye a woven or knitted fabric of animal hair fibers that has been subjected to ozone treatment, sew the product, dye the product, and then wash the product.

If the manufacturing method of the sewing product demonstrated above is used, the sewing product of the following properties can be manufactured, for example.
(1) Compared to other materials such as cotton, this is a sewn product that is less likely to wrinkle and has a light feeling. (2) Sewing products having a texture with swelling. (3) Sewing products with natural stretch properties. (4) Sewing products that can be used in all seasons due to the excellent moisture absorption and release performance of wool. (5) Sewing products that can be washed at home despite the use of animal hair fibers.

  Next, production examples of the product of the present invention will be described together with comparative examples to specifically show the effects. The following example is an example, and the present invention is not limited to this.

Example 1
Wool with a fineness of 20.5μ, shrink-proofed by ozone, and spun in a 2/1 twill structure with yarn spun at 2/60 Nm, lower twist number Z670T / M, upper twist number S700T / M The number was woven at 80 / inch in the warp direction and 62 / inch in the weft direction.

  This fabric is set at 90 ° C for 10 minutes using a cocoon cooking machine, washed with a neutral detergent at 40 ° C for 30 minutes using a rope-type scourer, and then again on the cocoon cooking machine. In addition, after setting at 90 ° C. for 10 minutes, a listing process for drying at 120 ° C. for 2 minutes was performed with a tenter dryer.

  Next, after sewing a jacket using this fabric, it is dyed with an aqueous solution of the following prescription 1 in a paddle type dyeing machine at a bath ratio of 1:30 at 95 ° C. for 60 minutes, washed with water and dried. An inventive dyed sewn product is obtained.

Formula 1
LANASOL BLUE 3G 2% owf (manufactured by Huntsman Advanced Materials Co., Ltd., dye), sodium sulfate 20% owf, ammonium sulfate 20% owf, Albegal A 0.5% owf (manufactured by Huntsman Advanced Materials Co., Ltd.) Dyeing agent), Albegal B 1.0% owf (manufactured by Huntsman Advanced Materials Co., Ltd., leveling agent)

Comparative Example 1
For comparison with the present invention, instead of the wool subjected to the shrink-proofing treatment with ozone used in this example, in the spun yarn of the same standard as in Example 1 using the wool not subjected to the shrink-proofing treatment, A woven fabric having the same standard as in Example 1 is prepared, and a woven fabric that has been subjected to a listing process similar to that in Example 1 is prepared, and the same jacket as in Example 1 is sewn using this, and the same dyeing as in Example 1 is performed. A dyed sewing product for comparison was obtained. Table 1 shows the dimensional change rate before and after product dyeing in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

  As is clear from the results shown in Table 1, the sewn product obtained in Example 1 of the present invention had a smaller dimensional change than the sewn product obtained in Comparative Example 1.

Comparative Example 2
In addition, for comparison with the present invention, instead of the wool subjected to the shrinkage-proofing treatment using ozone used in this example, the shrinkage-proofing process (coating with a polyamide resin after chlorination which is usually produced industrially) ( A woven fabric of the same standard as that of Example 1 was prepared using a spun yarn of the same standard as that of Example 1 using a chlorinated resin method) The same jacket as in Example 1 was sewn, and the same dyeing as in Example 1 was performed to obtain a dyed sewing product for comparison. Table 2 shows the number of stitches damaged by product dyeing in Example 1 and Comparative Example 2.

  As is apparent from the results shown in Table 2, the sewn product obtained in Example 1 of the present invention has a smaller number of stitches damaged by product dyeing than the sewn product obtained in Comparative Example 2. It was.

Comparative Example 3
In addition, for comparison with the present invention, instead of the wool subjected to the shrink-proofing treatment using ozone used in this example, the spun yarn of the same standard as in Example 1 using the wool not subjected to the shrink-proofing treatment was used. A woven fabric having the same specifications as in Example 1 was prepared, and in addition to the same under-treatment as in Example 1, it was impregnated with an aqueous solution of the following prescription 2, which is a shrink-proofing process by ordinary fiber-to-fiber adhesion, and the drawing ratio was 90%. After squeezing and drying, a semi-decatizer processing machine is used to prepare a fabric that has been steamed for 10 minutes as a curing, and using this, the same jacket as in Example 1 is sewn, and the same dyeing as in Example 1 A dyed sewing product for comparison was obtained. Table 3 shows the presence or absence of color spots and the texture value in Example 1 and Comparative Example 3.

Formula 2
Elastron BAP (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., heat-reactive water-soluble urethane resin) 120 g / L, D-1014C (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., acrylic polymer) 60 g / L

  As is clear from the results shown in Table 3, the sewn product obtained in Example 1 of the present invention had no color spots, no particular stiffness when using a resin, and a texture with sliminess and swelling was obtained.

Example 2
This is a wool with a fineness of 18.5μ, shrink-proofed by ozone, and spun on a 22-gauge knitting machine using a yarn spun at a count of 2/60 Nm, a lower twist number of Z640 T / M, and an upper twist number of S550 T / M. Organized organization knitting.

  This knitted fabric was washed with a neutral detergent at 40 ° C. for 10 minutes using a rope-type washing machine, and then subjected to a listing process for drying at 120 ° C. for 2 minutes with a tenter dryer.

  Next, after using this knitted fabric to sew a sweater, using a paddle type dyeing machine, the aqueous solution of the above formulation 1 is dyed at 95 ° C. for 60 minutes at a bath ratio of 1:30, washed with water and dried. An inventive dyed sewn product is obtained.

  As a result, a product having a swelled texture without a large dimensional change was obtained. The product was a casual product with good quality with no color spots at all.

Example 3
The fabric spun and woven under the same conditions as in Example 1 above was subjected to a listing treatment under the same conditions as in Example 1 and then dyed with an aqueous solution of Formula 1 at 95 ° C. for 60 minutes at a bath ratio of 1:25. , Washed with water and dried.

  After the jacket was sewed using the dyed fabric, the product was washed with a washing machine for washing the product at 40 ° C. for 10 minutes.

  As a result, a product in which no large dimensional change occurred and the sewing part was not damaged was obtained. Since no resin is used, the wool has a soft texture inherent to wool, and is a casual product with a natural stretch and a comfortable fit.

  In addition, the measuring method used for evaluation of the said Example 1, the comparative example 1, the comparative example 2, and the comparative example 3 is as follows.

(Dimensional change rate)
For the product fabric before and after product dyeing, mark a certain interval (M) in the length direction and width direction of the dried sample before product dyeing or product washing, and from the interval (N) after product dyeing or product washing. The dimensional change rate was calculated and evaluated according to the following formula.
Dimensional change rate (%) = [(N−M) / M] × 100
(Number of damaged parts of the seam of the sewing product)
The number of locations was measured visually.
(Color spots)
Judgment was made visually.
(Texture)
Each physical property value was measured with a Kawabata-type texture tester, and Hand Value and Total Hand Value were calculated by HESC STANDARD OF HAND EVALUATION.

Claims (4)

A sewn product characterized by performing product dyeing and / or product washing on a sewn product obtained by sewing fabric or knitted fabric containing animal hair fibers that has been subjected to ozone treatment. The sewn product according to claim 1, wherein a dyed woven fabric or knitted fabric is used as the woven fabric or knitted fabric. The sewn product according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the animal hair fibers are wool. The sewing product according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the animal hair fiber is any one of cashmere, angora, mohair, and alpaca.