WO2019051939A1 - Multicolor gradient digital yarn knitted fabric and preparation method therefor - Google Patents

Multicolor gradient digital yarn knitted fabric and preparation method therefor Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019051939A1
WO2019051939A1 PCT/CN2017/107927 CN2017107927W WO2019051939A1 WO 2019051939 A1 WO2019051939 A1 WO 2019051939A1 CN 2017107927 W CN2017107927 W CN 2017107927W WO 2019051939 A1 WO2019051939 A1 WO 2019051939A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
spinning
knitted fabric
roving
colorful
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PCT/CN2017/107927
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French (fr)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
钟俊杰
周建
王峰
王鸿博
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江阴芗菲服饰有限公司
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Publication of WO2019051939A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019051939A1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/34Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns
    • D02G3/346Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns with coloured effects, i.e. by differential dyeing process
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a colorful gradient digital yarn knitted fabric and a preparation method thereof.
  • knitwear has become increasingly popular throughout the world, and the world of apparel has shown a trend toward knitwear.
  • knitted fabrics have the commonality of knitted garments and unique characteristics. They are unique in style with their soft, comfortable, body-fit and elastic properties.
  • the leisure and fashion of knitted fabrics conform to the changes of people's lifestyles.
  • the development of raw materials to natural and environmental protection, and the development of fabrics to functionalization have become more and more important in the modern garment industry.
  • An indispensable part of modern people's dressing style has broad development prospects and huge business opportunities.
  • the process can realize multi-color color matching in the same process, but the process has certain requirements on fiber length and fiber type, and is suitable for the needle comb drawing processing method, and the length of the color segment is long after the wool fiber strip is drawn by the subsequent process.
  • the product has a large limitation; the decorative yarn color strip is fed at four different points in the longitudinal direction of the base strip. To achieve the head-to-tail connection of any color matching at each point, it is difficult to formulate and change the process.
  • the draw frame feeding method is mainly applied to wool spinning. Imitation of foreign equipment in the drawing process using a computer
  • the program controls the frequency conversion or the servo motor, and the multi-point position feeds the colored fiber strips in sections to form a segmented color top.
  • This method is suitable for the wool fiber with a long fiber length, and the draw frame is a needle combing machine. After the product is processed by the subsequent process, the length of the segment color is longer.
  • the three-roller drafting mechanism of the spinning frame is simply modified, the main core yarn is fed from the middle roller, the auxiliary yarn is fed from the rear roller, and the auxiliary yarn is intermittently fed by electric or mechanical means, the trunk The core yarn and the auxiliary yarn are gathered at the middle roller jaws to achieve the segment color effect.
  • a rubber roller is added to the rear roller, the three roller and the four roller.
  • the rubber roller is used to hold the two rovings fed, the main core yarn is fed from the four rollers, and the auxiliary yarn is from three.
  • the roller is fed, the roving strip is controlled by the step rubber roller, passes over the smaller diameter end of the step rubber roller, and the roving whisker passes over the smaller diameter end of the step rubber roller, is controlled by the step rubber roller, and the program controller Control the servo motor, make the three-roller and four-roller step-variable drive, gather in the main draft of one roller and two roller to realize the effect of segment color yarn; the principle of segment color control and the spinning effect and the three-roller drawing method Similarly, the difference is that the speed of the three roller and the four roller can be increased, the main yarn increases the rear zone drafting control, and the dryness of the yarn is relatively good, but the holding points of the roving of the three roller and the four roller are relatively The spacing of the two rollers is not the same.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a colorful gradual digital yarn knitted fabric and a preparation method thereof, which can improve the material level of the final fabric and meet the practical application requirements.
  • the main problem of the prior art is that the spinning mechanism needs to be modified when spinning the grading yarn, and secondly, the quality blending ratio of the different feeding channels cannot be changed in real time during spinning.
  • the invention improves the drafting mechanism of the ordinary ring spinning rear zone, and can feed three rovings at the same time, and the respective draw ratios of the rear zone can be independently controlled.
  • the blending ratio change, the change length, and the weaving process are all conventional means, but the amount of change and the length of change are given as good process merits based on multiple trial spinning experiments, and the significant effect is woven into The fabric color transitions naturally and is not unobtrusive.
  • a method for preparing a colorful gradation digital yarn knitted fabric including The following steps:
  • A) Yarn production process the roving strips are spun from cotton fibers of cyan, magenta and yellow. The yarns are spun by a digital spinning machine. The variation of the blending ratio of different colors is 15%. a ratio of change in length of 10cm; gradient spun yarn 30 S and 30 S simultaneously plied yarn and pure yellow line;
  • one of the color rovings is fixed, and the ratio of the remaining two color rovings is dynamically adjusted, and the color change gradient is set to 15%, that is, the ratio is changed from 85%: 15% to 15%: 85%, then changed back to 85%: 15%, the length of each ratio varies by 10cm.
  • the three colors of cotton fibers of cyan, magenta and yellow are firstly obtained by grasping, mixing, opening, rolling, carding, drawing, and roving, respectively, and then forming roving strips; Three different color rovings were simultaneously fed into a digital spinning machine that was drafted and modified in the back zone for spinning.
  • the spinning speed is determined to be 7000 r/min, and the servo motor is used to adjust the color blending ratio of different spinning segments.
  • the pre-spinning process is further included: color fiber ⁇ opening cotton ⁇ carding ⁇ pre-striping, strip-and-rolling ⁇ combing ⁇ striping (2 lanes).
  • the raw cotton is dyed, and the physical properties of the original cotton are dyed, and the physical properties of the fiber are decreased.
  • the impurity removal process is similar to the spinning ordinary white yarn process, and the process of prematurely dropping impurities is used to prevent the impurities from being broken during the processing, and it is more difficult to remove.
  • a stable supply is provided, and two cotton boxes (supply machines) are arranged in the opening and cleaning process.
  • the dyed fiber is dyed and washed with water, and the impurities contained in the fiber are reduced.
  • the opener is usually opened by the opener and the cotton cleaner.
  • the physical and mechanical properties are degraded.
  • the speed of the tapping machine is appropriately reduced, which can reduce the fiber damage and reduce the amount of neps.
  • the distance between the dust bars of the opener is from the inlet to the outlet. Reduced. Due to the high cost of the color fiber, the cleaning and carding process is carried out, and the cotton removal rate is appropriately reduced on the basis of improving the efficiency of the single machine.
  • the drop rate is controlled at 70-75% of the raw cotton.
  • the combing preparation process adopts: pre-adhesive (6) ⁇ strip and roll (28).
  • the lap is relatively uniform in the transverse direction, the fiber has a certain diffusion, and the small volume is quantitatively heavy, which can improve the output of the comber and at the same time facilitate the removal of the linters.
  • the spinning frame has a strong drafting ability due to the low number of spun yarns, and the roving drafting is small (6.1 to 7.5), and the roving is appropriately selected ( 3.5 ⁇ 4.5g/10m), the roving twist coefficient is small (85 ⁇ 91), which is beneficial to improve the quality of the roving and save the roving machine.
  • the middle and rear roller center distances are set to 65 mm; the roller pressure is set to 180*120*140 N/double ingots before, during and after, and the spindle speed is 7000 r/min.
  • the needle number is: 12G.
  • Yarn 30 S /2 strands.
  • Weight 293 g / square meter.
  • the fabric is woven by a computerized flat knitting machine, and the yarn is first lubricated and waxed to improve the smoothness of the yarn and optimized by tension (50-60 cN). Therefore, the yarn breakage caused by the knotting of the yarn during the weaving process is avoided, resulting in unevenness of the fabric coil and the occurrence of streaks.
  • step B the method further includes the following steps:
  • the specific process flow of the preparation method of the colorful gradient digital yarn knitted fabric comprises:
  • A) Yarn production process cotton picking ⁇ mixing ⁇ opening ⁇ rolling ⁇ combing ⁇ combing preparation ⁇ combing drawing ⁇ roving (three colors) ⁇ spun yarn (colorful gradient digital yarn);
  • a colorful progressive digital yarn knitted fabric is provided, and the colorful progressive digital yarn knitted fabric is prepared by any of the above preparation methods.
  • Rear roller numerical control technology It adopts high-precision dynamic control of the draft ratio of different color rovings in the spinning time with the time as the variable, while keeping the total drafting constant constant.
  • the gradient blending ratio is changed, and the blending coloring effect at the fiber scale is optimized.
  • Option 1 Fix another roving, dynamically adjust the ratio of the other two colors of roving, set the color change gradient to 15%, that is, the ratio changes from 85%: 15% to 15%: 85%, then back to 85%. : 15%, the change length of each ratio is 10cm.
  • Option 2 Set the gradient of the gradient color to 10%, fix one of the rovings, and adjust the ratio of any two other rovings, that is, the ratio is changed from 10%:10%:80% to 10%:80%:10 %, then change to 10%: 10%: 80%, the change length of each ratio is 6cm.
  • the yarn grading effect and the overall color mixing effect of the scheme 1 are better than the scheme 2, that is, the yarn spun from the scheme 1 and the gradation rule thereof can more express the gradient.
  • the blending ratio is controlled by a blending ratio of 15%.
  • the traditional mixed yarn spinning process is to mix the fiber materials of different colors or properties in the cotton picking or drawing process, and then make the roving and then spin.
  • the yarn produced by this method cannot achieve a short segment gradation of its color in the length direction.
  • the three colors of cotton fibers of cyan, magenta and yellow are firstly obtained by grasping, mixing, opening, rolling, carding, drawing, and roving processes.
  • the roving strip; then three different color rovings are simultaneously fed into the yarn spinning machine which is drafted by the rear zone for spinning, and the grading process is preferred.
  • the yarn is spun by a digital spinning machine.
  • the variation ratio of different color gradient blending is 15%, that is, the ratio of color blending ratio is changed from 85%: 15% to 15%: 85%, and then back to 85%: 15%.
  • the variation of the ratio is 10 cm.
  • the spinning speed is determined to be 7000r/min, and the servo motor is used to adjust the color blending ratio of different spinning segments.
  • the 30 S gradient yarn is simultaneously conjugated with 30 S pure yellow yarn.
  • the process of the spinning process of the color spinning yarn is directed to this case.
  • the setting is different from ordinary white spinning yarn.
  • Color-spun yarn products are usually oriented to the mid-to-high-end market, so the cotton blending grade of the raw material is usually slightly higher than the ordinary yarn of the same yarn count to compensate for the fiber damage caused by fiber dyeing, resulting in a decrease in the spinnability of the dyed fiber and physical The performance is declining.
  • Opening cotton is the starting point of cotton spinning engineering and one of the key processes to determine the quality of cotton spinning engineering.
  • the process of opening the cotton cleaning process should be scientific and reasonable, so that the production can be carried out according to the optimal process and process conditions.
  • the cotton fiber dyed by the same dyeing cylinder will have a certain color difference.
  • the fiber dyed by different dyeing cylinders will have a certain cylinder difference.
  • the packaging and mixing of the colored fibers also need to be paid attention to in order to solve the chromatic aberration and improve the uniformity.
  • the impurity removal process is similar to the spinning ordinary white yarn process, and the process of using the early impurities is adopted to prevent the impurities from being broken during the processing, and it is more difficult to remove.
  • a stable supply is provided, and two cotton boxes (supply machines) are arranged in the opening and cleaning process.
  • the dyed fiber is dyed and washed with water, and the impurities contained in the fiber are reduced.
  • the open cleaning process three opening points are arranged, and the opener is usually opened by the opener and the cotton cleaner.
  • the physical and mechanical properties are degraded.
  • the speed of the tapping machine is appropriately reduced, which can reduce the fiber damage and reduce the amount of neps.
  • the distance between the dust bars of the opener is from the inlet to the outlet. Reduced. Due to the high cost of the color fiber, the cleaning and carding process is carried out, and the cotton removal rate is appropriately reduced on the basis of improving the efficiency of the single machine.
  • the drop rate is controlled at 70-75% of the raw cotton.
  • the dyed fiber is more likely to form short velvet in the carding process than the original cotton, and the speed of the licking roller of the carding machine is appropriately reduced, the holding pre-carding action is reduced, and the fiber damage is reduced.
  • the speed of the cylinder can be kept at the same speed as that of ordinary white yarn.
  • the decrease of the speed of the cylinder will reduce the number of needles acting on the fiber per unit time, reduce the combing effect, and reduce the speed of the cylinder, which will increase the combing load of the cylinder.
  • the fiber is easy to twist on the needle surface to form a neps, and the speed of the cylinder is also unfavorable for the discharge.
  • the combing preparation process is: pre-adhesive (6) ⁇ strip and roll (28)
  • the lap is relatively uniform in the transverse direction, the fiber has a certain diffusion, and the small volume is quantitatively heavy, which can improve the output of the comber and at the same time facilitate the removal of the linters.
  • the spinning machine Due to the low number of spun yarns, the spinning machine has a strong drafting capacity, so the roving draft is too small (6.1 to 7.5), the roving is appropriately selected (3.5 to 4.5 g/10 m), and the roving coefficient is small. Mastering (85-91) is beneficial to improve the quality of the roving and save the roving machine.
  • the drawing yarns of the three drafting channels are dynamically changed, and the total drafting ratio and the drafting ratio of the rear zone are large. It is necessary to synthesize various factors to formulate the process, and the requirements for the spinning process are high.
  • Post-drafting zone process Due to the dynamic change of the drafting ratio in the rear zone of each channel, and the variation range is large, the rear zone needs to bear a large draft, the roving twist in the rear drafting zone is high, and the cohesion between the fibers Larger, It is necessary to appropriately increase the center distance of the rear drafting zone roller, and set the center distance of the middle and rear rollers to be 65 mm.
  • the total drafting ratio and the drafting ratio of the rear zone are both large, and the roller pressure is too large to be controlled, and the pressure is set to 180*120*140N/double ingot before, during and after.
  • the apron adopts elastic jaws, taking into account the amount of fiber in the drafting zone. When the drafting ratio is low and the fiber volume is large, the hard head cannot be produced. When the drafting ratio is high and the fiber amount is small, the fiber is effectively controlled.
  • the ring jaws are moderately controlled, with a 3.0 gauge block. Spinning graded yarn, dynamic change draft ratio, spindle speed 7000r/min is much lower than ordinary white spinning. The spinning process parameters are shown in Table 2.
  • the product of the invention is woven by computerized flat knitting machine, and is mainly optimized for the yarn tension of the computerized flat knitting machine (50-60 cN), thereby avoiding yarn breakage caused by yarn knotting during the knitting process, thereby causing unevenness of the fabric coil. , there is a shadow and so on.
  • the specific method is to first lubricate and wax the yarn to improve the smoothness of the yarn, and adopt a new type of yarn storage device to strictly control the tension, so as to avoid yarn breakage caused by uneven yarn gravity. , ⁇ and other issues.
  • the product of the present invention employs a woven fabric structure as a single jersey needle.
  • Horizontal density 62.5/10cm; longitudinal density: 39/10cm.
  • Needle number 12G, weaving on a computerized flat knitting machine.
  • Yarn 30 S /2 strands.
  • Weight 293 g / square meter.
  • the fabric prepared by the invention has soft and firm hand feeling, rich color change, distinct layers, and has a three-dimensional effect and a illusion effect.
  • the invention selects the raw material selection, the yarn design, the spinning technical parameter optimization and the flat knitting machine process optimization, and finally successfully develops the colorful gradient digital yarn knitted fabric.
  • the developed products have not detected formaldehyde, and have good environmental protection characteristics; the color fastness to washing and the rubbing fastness are higher than the standard, reaching the standard of the National Textile Products Basic Safety Technical Specifications, in line with B Class safety requirements, product quality level meets the requirements of the first class of "Knitting Craft Shirt".
  • the production process of the product is feasible, the product quality and function have reached the domestic advanced level, and it has been mass-produced, and achieved good economic and social benefits.

Abstract

A method for preparing a multicolor gradient digital yarn knitted fabric, comprising the following steps: A) a yarn producing process: cyan cotton fiber, magenta cotton fiber, and yellow cotton fiber are used as raw materials for roving spinning, a digital spinning machine is used for spinning yarn, the amount of change in the gradient blending ratio of different colors is 15%, the change length at each ratio is 10 cm; and plying is conducted on 30S spun gradient yarn and 30S pure yellow yarn; and B) a knitting process using a flat knitting machine: knitting is conducted on a computer flat knitting machine, fabric weave of single-face plain stitch type is used for the fabric; and the coursewise density is 62.5/10 cm, and the walewise density is 39/10 cm. The fabric has a unique style, rich gradation and a good three-dimensional effect, is fashionable, and has a wide application prospect.

Description

一种多彩渐变数码纱针织面料及其制备方法Colorful gradient digital yarn knitted fabric and preparation method thereof 技术领域Technical field
本发明涉及纺织技术领域,具体地说,是一种多彩渐变数码纱针织面料及其制备方法。The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a colorful gradient digital yarn knitted fabric and a preparation method thereof.
背景技术Background technique
从20世纪80年代开始,针织服装在整个世界范围内日益受到人们的青睐,世界服装领域呈现出向针织服装发展的趋势。针织面料作为针织服装的主要原料,既有针织服装的一般共性,又具有特有的个性,以其柔软、舒适、贴体又富有弹性的优良性能形成了独特的风格。特别是进入新世纪,针织面料的休闲化、时装化顺应了人们生活方式的变化,原料向天然和环保发展、面料向功能化发展,已在现代服装行业中占据越来越重要的地位,成为现代人着装方式中不可缺少的一部分,具有广阔的发展前景和巨大商机。Since the 1980s, knitwear has become increasingly popular throughout the world, and the world of apparel has shown a trend toward knitwear. As the main raw material of knitted garments, knitted fabrics have the commonality of knitted garments and unique characteristics. They are unique in style with their soft, comfortable, body-fit and elastic properties. Especially in the new century, the leisure and fashion of knitted fabrics conform to the changes of people's lifestyles. The development of raw materials to natural and environmental protection, and the development of fabrics to functionalization have become more and more important in the modern garment industry. An indispensable part of modern people's dressing style has broad development prospects and huge business opportunities.
近年来随着智能控制技术的发展,采用各类花式纱线织成面料成为一种趋势。从当前国内外花式纱线发展状况来看,原料多元化、结构复合型是两大发展趋势,传统花式纱线是基于平行纱、竹节纱、波纹纱、圈圈纱等不同成纱结构交替使用或混入具有特殊性能的纤维,而通过多色彩组合使纱线呈复合色,可使产品更加丰富多彩。多组分纤维复合成纱技术是成功开发环锭纺花式纱线产品的关键,从国内外资料及展示的设备来看,多组份耦合式纱线的一种形式就是段彩纱。在多色并条针梳机的后部喂入有色或无色的纤维条,从机身侧旁四个喂入机位,用电脑程序控制器,分段控制四个步进电机传动的配色罗拉转速,实现分段配色,制成段彩条,再纺制成段彩纱。该工艺可以在同一工序中实现多色段配色,但该工艺对纤维长度、纤维类别有一定要求,适宜于针梳牵伸加工方法,毛纤维条经后道工序牵伸后,色段长度长,产品有较大局限性;饰纱色条是在基条纵向的四个不同点位喂入,要达到各点位任意配色的头尾衔接,工艺制订和更改较难。In recent years, with the development of intelligent control technology, it has become a trend to use various types of fancy yarns to woven into fabrics. From the current development of fancy yarns at home and abroad, diversified raw materials and structural composites are two major development trends. Traditional fancy yarns are based on different yarns such as parallel yarn, slub yarn, corrugated yarn and loop yarn. The structure is alternately used or mixed with fibers with special properties, and the multi-color combination allows the yarn to be composited, which makes the product more colorful. Multi-component fiber composite yarn forming technology is the key to the successful development of ring-spun fancy yarn products. From the perspective of domestic and foreign materials and display equipment, one form of multi-component coupled yarn is segmental yarn. Feeding colored or colorless fiber strips at the rear of the multi-color draw-down card comb, feeding four positions from the side of the fuselage, using a computer program controller to control the color matching of the four stepper motor drives Roller speed, to achieve segmental color matching, into a segment of color bars, and then into a segment of colored yarn. The process can realize multi-color color matching in the same process, but the process has certain requirements on fiber length and fiber type, and is suitable for the needle comb drawing processing method, and the length of the color segment is long after the wool fiber strip is drawn by the subsequent process. The product has a large limitation; the decorative yarn color strip is fed at four different points in the longitudinal direction of the base strip. To achieve the head-to-tail connection of any color matching at each point, it is difficult to formulate and change the process.
目前国内现有的段彩纱生产方法主要有以下三种:At present, there are three main methods for producing segmental yarns in China:
1、并条机分段喂入法1, draw frame segment feeding method
并条机分段喂入法主要应用于毛纺。仿制国外的设备在并条工序采用电脑 程序控制变频或伺服电机,多点位对有色纤维条分段喂入,形成段彩毛条。这种方法适用于纤维长度较长的毛型纤维,并条机为针梳并条机,产品经后道工序加工后,段彩长度较长。The draw frame feeding method is mainly applied to wool spinning. Imitation of foreign equipment in the drawing process using a computer The program controls the frequency conversion or the servo motor, and the multi-point position feeds the colored fiber strips in sections to form a segmented color top. This method is suitable for the wool fiber with a long fiber length, and the draw frame is a needle combing machine. After the product is processed by the subsequent process, the length of the segment color is longer.
2、细纱机三罗拉牵伸法2, spinning machine three roller drawing method
在细纱工序中,对细纱机的三罗拉牵伸机构加以简单的改造,主干芯纱从中罗拉喂入,辅纱从后罗拉喂入,并通过电动或机械装置控制辅纱进行间断喂入,主干芯纱与辅纱在中罗拉钳口处集合从而达到段彩效果。In the spinning process, the three-roller drafting mechanism of the spinning frame is simply modified, the main core yarn is fed from the middle roller, the auxiliary yarn is fed from the rear roller, and the auxiliary yarn is intermittently fed by electric or mechanical means, the trunk The core yarn and the auxiliary yarn are gathered at the middle roller jaws to achieve the segment color effect.
3、细纱机四罗拉牵伸法3. Four-roller drawing method for spinning frame
在三罗拉的基础上,增加一根后罗拉,三罗拉和四罗拉的上胶辊采用阶梯胶辊,分别握持喂入的两根粗纱,主干芯纱从四罗拉喂入,辅纱从三罗拉喂入,粗纱须条受阶梯胶辊控制,从阶梯胶辊的直径较小端上面通过,而粗纱须条从阶梯胶辊的直径较小端上面通过,受阶梯胶辊控制,程序控制器控制伺服电机,使三罗拉和四罗拉分段变速驱动,在一罗拉和二罗拉构成的主牵伸内集合,实现段彩纱效果;其段彩控制原理和纺纱效果与三罗拉牵伸法类似,所不同的是三罗拉和四罗拉的速度均可,主纱增加了后区牵伸控制,成纱条干匀度相对较好,但其三罗拉和四罗拉对粗纱的握持点相对二罗拉的间距不一样,不适宜于棉型纤维条牵伸纺纱,同时三罗拉和四罗拉对粗纱的握持点不在喂入粗纱长度的同一点,不能同步且同点位调速控制,影响成纱条干,工艺调整复杂。四罗拉法虽可纺制条干相对均匀的段彩纱,但主辅纱的混纺比例由于受到主辅粗纱定量和后区牵伸倍数的限制,调节与控制都不够方便。On the basis of the three rollers, a rubber roller is added to the rear roller, the three roller and the four roller. The rubber roller is used to hold the two rovings fed, the main core yarn is fed from the four rollers, and the auxiliary yarn is from three. The roller is fed, the roving strip is controlled by the step rubber roller, passes over the smaller diameter end of the step rubber roller, and the roving whisker passes over the smaller diameter end of the step rubber roller, is controlled by the step rubber roller, and the program controller Control the servo motor, make the three-roller and four-roller step-variable drive, gather in the main draft of one roller and two roller to realize the effect of segment color yarn; the principle of segment color control and the spinning effect and the three-roller drawing method Similarly, the difference is that the speed of the three roller and the four roller can be increased, the main yarn increases the rear zone drafting control, and the dryness of the yarn is relatively good, but the holding points of the roving of the three roller and the four roller are relatively The spacing of the two rollers is not the same. It is not suitable for the drafting of cotton fiber strips. At the same time, the holding points of the rovings of the three rollers and the four rollers are not at the same point of feeding the length of the roving, and cannot be synchronized and controlled by the same position. Yarn drying, craft The whole complex. Although the four-roller method can spin a relatively uniform segment of colored yarn, the blending ratio of the main and auxiliary yarns is limited by the quantitative of the main and auxiliary rovings and the draw ratio of the rear zone.
发明内容Summary of the invention
本发明的目的在于提供一种多彩渐变数码纱针织面料及其制备方法,提高最终面料的成料水平,满足实际应用需求。The object of the present invention is to provide a colorful gradual digital yarn knitted fabric and a preparation method thereof, which can improve the material level of the final fabric and meet the practical application requirements.
现有技术的主要问题在于,纺制渐变纱时需要对纺纱机构进行改造,其次是纺纱时不能实时改变不同喂入通道的质量混纺比。本发明通过对普通环锭纺后区牵伸机构进行改进,可以同时喂入3根粗纱,且各自的后区牵伸倍数可独立控制。混纺比变化量,变化长度,编织工艺都是常规手段,但其变化量及变化长度的量给定是根据多次试纺实验得出来的较好的工艺优数,其显著效果是所织成的面料色彩过渡自然,不突兀。The main problem of the prior art is that the spinning mechanism needs to be modified when spinning the grading yarn, and secondly, the quality blending ratio of the different feeding channels cannot be changed in real time during spinning. The invention improves the drafting mechanism of the ordinary ring spinning rear zone, and can feed three rovings at the same time, and the respective draw ratios of the rear zone can be independently controlled. The blending ratio change, the change length, and the weaving process are all conventional means, but the amount of change and the length of change are given as good process merits based on multiple trial spinning experiments, and the significant effect is woven into The fabric color transitions naturally and is not unobtrusive.
本发明的第一方面,提供一种多彩渐变数码纱针织面料的制备方法,包括 以下步骤:According to a first aspect of the present invention, a method for preparing a colorful gradation digital yarn knitted fabric is provided, including The following steps:
A)纱线生产工序:选用青、品红和黄三种颜色的棉纤维为原料进行粗纱条纺制,纱线采用数码纺纱机纺制,不同颜色渐变混纺比变化量为15%,每个比例的变化长度为10cm;所纺30S渐变纱同时与30S纯黄色纱进行合股并线;A) Yarn production process: the roving strips are spun from cotton fibers of cyan, magenta and yellow. The yarns are spun by a digital spinning machine. The variation of the blending ratio of different colors is 15%. a ratio of change in length of 10cm; gradient spun yarn 30 S and 30 S simultaneously plied yarn and pure yellow line;
B)横机编织工序:在电脑横机上进行编织,面料采用织物组织为单面平针;横密:62.5/10cm;纵密:39/10cm。B) Flat knitting process: Weaving on a computerized flat knitting machine, the fabric is made of a single-sided flat needle; the transverse density: 62.5/10cm; the longitudinal density: 39/10cm.
优选的,所述的步骤A中,固定其中一种颜色粗纱,将其余两种颜色粗纱比例进行动态调整,设定颜色变化梯度为15%,即比例从85%:15%变到15%:85%,再变回85%:15%,每个比例的变化长度为10cm。Preferably, in the step A, one of the color rovings is fixed, and the ratio of the remaining two color rovings is dynamically adjusted, and the color change gradient is set to 15%, that is, the ratio is changed from 85%: 15% to 15%: 85%, then changed back to 85%: 15%, the length of each ratio varies by 10cm.
优选的,所述的步骤A中,首先将青,品红和黄三种颜色棉纤维经抓取、混合、开松、成卷、梳理、并条、粗纱工序后分别制成粗纱条;然后将三个不同颜色粗纱同时喂入经后区牵伸改造的数码纺纱机进行纺纱。Preferably, in the step A, the three colors of cotton fibers of cyan, magenta and yellow are firstly obtained by grasping, mixing, opening, rolling, carding, drawing, and roving, respectively, and then forming roving strips; Three different color rovings were simultaneously fed into a digital spinning machine that was drafted and modified in the back zone for spinning.
优选的,所述的步骤A中,在数码纺纱机的控制上,先确定纺纱速度7000r/min,并采用伺服电机对不同纺纱段的颜色混纺比进行精度调控。Preferably, in the step A, in the control of the digital spinning machine, the spinning speed is determined to be 7000 r/min, and the servo motor is used to adjust the color blending ratio of different spinning segments.
优选的,所述的步骤A中,粗纱条纺制之前还包括前纺工艺:色纤维→开清棉→梳棉→预并条、条并卷→精梳→并条(2道)。Preferably, in the step A, before the spinning of the roving strip, the pre-spinning process is further included: color fiber→opening cotton→carding→pre-striping, strip-and-rolling→combing→striping (2 lanes).
优选的,所述的步骤A中,采用原棉染色,原棉经过染色后,纤维物理性能下降,在开松过程中,应遵循“先缓后剧,渐进开松”,达到少损伤纤维的效果。除杂过程与纺普通白纱工艺相近,采用早落杂质的工艺,以防杂质在加工过程中破碎,更难以清除。为了保证色纤维的充分混合及均匀输送,做到稳定供应,在开清棉流程中配置两台棉箱(给棉机)。染色纤维经过染色和水洗,纤维中所含杂质有所下降,所用开清棉工艺中,配置3个开清点数,通常以开棉机和清棉机打手为开清点。Preferably, in the step A, the raw cotton is dyed, and the physical properties of the original cotton are dyed, and the physical properties of the fiber are decreased. During the opening process, the effect of “slowing down and gradually opening” should be followed to achieve the effect of less damage to the fibers. The impurity removal process is similar to the spinning ordinary white yarn process, and the process of prematurely dropping impurities is used to prevent the impurities from being broken during the processing, and it is more difficult to remove. In order to ensure the thorough mixing and uniform transportation of the color fiber, a stable supply is provided, and two cotton boxes (supply machines) are arranged in the opening and cleaning process. The dyed fiber is dyed and washed with water, and the impurities contained in the fiber are reduced. In the open cleaning process, three opening points are arranged, and the opener is usually opened by the opener and the cotton cleaner.
开清棉机台配置:Open cleaning machine configuration:
FA002(2台)→FA121→FA104→FA022→FA106→A062→A092AST→FA141FA002 (2 units) → FA121 → FA104 → FA022 → FA106 → A062 → A092AST → FA141
纤维经过染色,物理机械性能下降,开清棉工序中,开棉机打手速度适当降低,可以减少纤维损伤,降低棉结增加量,开棉机各尘棒间距按棉流自入口至出口由大减小。由于色纤维成本较高,开清棉和梳棉工序,在提高单机除杂效能的基础上,适当减小落棉率。落棉率控制在原棉含杂率的70-75%。After the fiber is dyed, the physical and mechanical properties are degraded. In the process of opening the cotton, the speed of the tapping machine is appropriately reduced, which can reduce the fiber damage and reduce the amount of neps. The distance between the dust bars of the opener is from the inlet to the outlet. Reduced. Due to the high cost of the color fiber, the cleaning and carding process is carried out, and the cotton removal rate is appropriately reduced on the basis of improving the efficiency of the single machine. The drop rate is controlled at 70-75% of the raw cotton.
优选的,所述的步骤A中,精梳准备工序采用:预并条(6根)→条并卷 (28根)。采用此工艺,棉卷横向比较均匀,纤维有一定扩散,小卷定量重,能提高精梳机产量,同时有利于去除短绒。Preferably, in the step A, the combing preparation process adopts: pre-adhesive (6)→ strip and roll (28). With this process, the lap is relatively uniform in the transverse direction, the fiber has a certain diffusion, and the small volume is quantitatively heavy, which can improve the output of the comber and at the same time facilitate the removal of the linters.
优选的,所述的步骤A中,粗纱工艺配置:由于所纺细纱支数较低,细纱机具有较强的牵伸能力,粗纱牵伸偏小掌握(6.1~7.5),粗纱定量适当选取(3.5~4.5g/10m),粗纱捻系数偏小掌握(85~91),有利于提高粗纱质量,还可以节约粗纱机台。Preferably, in the step A, the roving process configuration: the spinning frame has a strong drafting ability due to the low number of spun yarns, and the roving drafting is small (6.1 to 7.5), and the roving is appropriately selected ( 3.5~4.5g/10m), the roving twist coefficient is small (85~91), which is beneficial to improve the quality of the roving and save the roving machine.
优选的,所述的步骤A中,设置中、后罗拉中心距为65mm;罗拉加压设置为前、中、后加压180*120*140N/双锭,锭速7000r/min。Preferably, in the step A, the middle and rear roller center distances are set to 65 mm; the roller pressure is set to 180*120*140 N/double ingots before, during and after, and the spindle speed is 7000 r/min.
优选的,所述的步骤B中,针号:12G。纱线:采用30S/2股线。克重:293克/平方米。Preferably, in the step B, the needle number is: 12G. Yarn: 30 S /2 strands. Weight: 293 g / square meter.
优选的,所述的步骤B中,面料采用电脑横机编织,编织时先对纱线进行润滑及上蜡处理,以提高纱线的顺滑度,并通过张力进行优化(50~60cN),从而避免在编织过程中因纱线打结造成断纱,从而导致面料线圈不匀,出现条影等瑕疵。Preferably, in the step B, the fabric is woven by a computerized flat knitting machine, and the yarn is first lubricated and waxed to improve the smoothness of the yarn and optimized by tension (50-60 cN). Therefore, the yarn breakage caused by the knotting of the yarn during the weaving process is avoided, resulting in unevenness of the fabric coil and the occurrence of streaks.
更优选的,所述的步骤B之后,还包括以下步骤:More preferably, after step B, the method further includes the following steps:
套口→平车→手缝→水洗→烘干→整烫→包装→入库。Nesting → flat car → hand sewing → washing → drying → ironing → packaging → storage.
更优选的,所述的多彩渐变数码纱针织面料的制备方法的具体工艺流程包括:More preferably, the specific process flow of the preparation method of the colorful gradient digital yarn knitted fabric comprises:
A)纱线生产工序:抓棉→混合→开松→成卷→梳理→精梳准备→精梳并条→粗纱(三种颜色)→细纱(多彩渐变数码纱);A) Yarn production process: cotton picking→mixing→opening→rolling→combing→combing preparation→combing drawing→roving (three colors)→spun yarn (colorful gradient digital yarn);
B)面料生产工序:多彩渐变数码纱→并线→倒筒→织片→套口→平车→手缝→水洗→烘干→整烫→包装→入库。B) Fabric production process: colorful gradient digital yarn → doubling → rewinding → woven sheet → hood → flat car → hand sewing → washing → drying → ironing → packaging → storage.
本发明的第二方面,提供一种多彩渐变数码纱针织面料,所述的多彩渐变数码纱针织面料采用上述任一的制备方法制备得到。According to a second aspect of the present invention, a colorful progressive digital yarn knitted fabric is provided, and the colorful progressive digital yarn knitted fabric is prepared by any of the above preparation methods.
与现有技术相比,本发明优点在于:Compared with the prior art, the advantages of the invention are:
(1)纺纱工艺:采用经后区牵伸改造后数码纺纱机进行纱线的纺制,动态对三种颜色在加捻三角区的混纺比例进行梯度调控,实现纱线外观颜色的渐变效果。并对其纱线并线成纱,达到面料用纱线及服用性能的要求。(1) Spinning process: the spinning of the yarn is carried out by the digital spinning machine after the post-zone drafting transformation, and the gradient of the blending ratio of the three colors in the twisted triangle is dynamically adjusted to realize the gradient of the yarn appearance color. effect. And the yarn is spliced into yarn to meet the requirements of the yarn and the performance of the fabric.
(2)后罗拉数控技术:采用在纺纱时,以时间为变量对不同颜色粗纱牵伸比例进行高精度的动态控制,同时保持总牵伸倍数恒定。 (2) Rear roller numerical control technology: It adopts high-precision dynamic control of the draft ratio of different color rovings in the spinning time with the time as the variable, while keeping the total drafting constant constant.
(3)选用电脑横机进行面料编织。所开发的产品通过对三个不同颜色粗纱混纺比例进行动态实时调控,获得纱线在其长度方向上的颜色渐变效果,整个生产过程无需染色,环保节能,所编织的面料有风格独特,层次丰富,有较强的立体感和时尚感,具有广阔的应用前景。(3) Use computer flat knitting machine for fabric weaving. The developed product dynamically adjusts the ratio of the blending of three different color rovings to obtain the color grading effect of the yarn in its length direction. The whole production process does not need dyeing, environmental protection and energy saving, and the woven fabric has unique style and rich layers. It has a strong sense of three-dimensionality and fashion, and has broad application prospects.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
下面结合实施例对本发明提供的具体实施方式作详细说明。The specific embodiments provided by the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the embodiments.
实施例1Example 1
具体工艺流程:Specific process flow:
纱线生产:抓棉→混合→开松→成卷→梳理→精梳准备→精梳并条→粗纱(三种颜色)→细纱(多彩渐变数码纱);Yarn production: cotton picking→mixing→opening→rolling→combing→combing preparation→combing drawing→roving (three colors)→spun yarn (colorful gradient digital yarn);
面料生产:多彩渐变数码纱→并线→倒筒→织片→套口→平车→手缝→水洗→烘干→整烫→包装→入库。Fabric production: colorful gradient digital yarn → doubling → rewinding → woven sheet → hood → flat car → hand sewing → washing → drying → ironing → packaging → storage.
(1)纱线的设计(1) Yarn design
为使所开发的产品的不仅具有良好的手感、吸湿、柔软等服用性能要求,及渐变层次丰富,还具有时尚、随意、大方的外观风格,采用棉纤维为原料,同时选用青,品红和黄三种颜色棉纤维进行混合纺制来突显其风格。In order to make the developed products not only have good hand feeling, moisture absorption, softness and other performance requirements, but also have a gradual rich layer, but also have a stylish, casual, generous appearance style, using cotton fiber as raw material, while using green, magenta and Yellow three-color cotton fiber is mixed and spun to highlight its style.
在渐变效果呈现上,采用梯度式混纺比例变化,并对纤维尺度下的混纺呈色效果进行优化设计。In the rendering of the gradient effect, the gradient blending ratio is changed, and the blending coloring effect at the fiber scale is optimized.
试纺过程中,对三种颜色混纺比例进行多个方案设计:In the trial spinning process, multiple schemes were designed for the blending ratio of the three colors:
方案1:固定其它一根粗纱,将其余两种颜色粗纱比例进行动态调整,设定颜色变化梯度为15%,即比例从85%:15%变到15%:85%,再变回85%:15%,每个比例的变化长度为10cm。Option 1: Fix another roving, dynamically adjust the ratio of the other two colors of roving, set the color change gradient to 15%, that is, the ratio changes from 85%: 15% to 15%: 85%, then back to 85%. : 15%, the change length of each ratio is 10cm.
方案2:设定渐变颜色变化梯度为10%,固定其中一根粗纱,对其它任意两根粗纱变化比例进调整,即比例从10%:10%:80%变到10%:80%:10%,再变到10%:10%:80%,每个比例的变化长度为6cm。Option 2: Set the gradient of the gradient color to 10%, fix one of the rovings, and adjust the ratio of any two other rovings, that is, the ratio is changed from 10%:10%:80% to 10%:80%:10 %, then change to 10%: 10%: 80%, the change length of each ratio is 6cm.
对比方案1和方案2的试纺实验,方案1所纺制的纱线渐变效果与及整体混色效果要优于方案2,即方案1所纺制出来的纱线及其渐变规律更能表达渐变面料的特点,同时满足面料加工与服用要求,因此最终选取方案1进行纱线纺制。在颜色动态变化上,采用以15%为梯度的混纺比进行渐变控制。 Comparing the trial spinning experiments of Scheme 1 and Scheme 2, the yarn grading effect and the overall color mixing effect of the scheme 1 are better than the scheme 2, that is, the yarn spun from the scheme 1 and the gradation rule thereof can more express the gradient. The characteristics of the fabric, while meeting the requirements of fabric processing and taking, so the final selection of Scheme 1 for yarn spinning. In the color dynamic change, the blending ratio is controlled by a blending ratio of 15%.
(2)纺纱工艺设计(2) Spinning process design
传统的混色纱线纺制工艺,都是在抓棉或者并条工序对不同颜色或性能的纤维原料进行混合,并将其制成粗纱后进行纺纱。然而通过该方法所生产的纱线无法实现其颜色在长度方向上的短片段渐变。为此,在本产品的纱线纺制过程中,首先将青,品红和黄三种颜色棉纤维经抓取、混合、开松、成卷、梳理、并条、粗纱工序后分别制成粗纱条;然后将三个不同颜色粗纱同时喂入经后区牵伸改造的数纱纺纱机进行纺纱,并对渐变工艺进行优选。The traditional mixed yarn spinning process is to mix the fiber materials of different colors or properties in the cotton picking or drawing process, and then make the roving and then spin. However, the yarn produced by this method cannot achieve a short segment gradation of its color in the length direction. To this end, in the yarn spinning process of this product, the three colors of cotton fibers of cyan, magenta and yellow are firstly obtained by grasping, mixing, opening, rolling, carding, drawing, and roving processes. The roving strip; then three different color rovings are simultaneously fed into the yarn spinning machine which is drafted by the rear zone for spinning, and the grading process is preferred.
纱线采用数码纺纱机纺制,不同颜色渐变混纺比变化量为15%,即颜色混纺比比例从85%:15%变到15%:85%,再变回85%:15%,每个比例的变化长度为10cm。在数码纺纱机的控制上,先确定纺纱速度7000r/min,并采用伺服电机对不同纺纱段的颜色混纺比进行精度调控。为提高渐变效果,所纺30S渐变纱同时与30S纯黄色纱进行合股并线。The yarn is spun by a digital spinning machine. The variation ratio of different color gradient blending is 15%, that is, the ratio of color blending ratio is changed from 85%: 15% to 15%: 85%, and then back to 85%: 15%. The variation of the ratio is 10 cm. In the control of the digital spinning machine, the spinning speed is determined to be 7000r/min, and the servo motor is used to adjust the color blending ratio of different spinning segments. In order to improve the gradation effect, the 30 S gradient yarn is simultaneously conjugated with 30 S pure yellow yarn.
由于色纺纱线所使用的纤维都是经过纤维染色之后,再经过纺纱流程,而纤维染色对纤维的物理机械性能有一定损伤,针对这种情况,色纺纱的纺纱各工序的工艺设置与普通白纺纱线有一定的区别。色纺纱线产品通常都是面向中高端市场,所以原料的配棉等级通常要比相同纱支的普通纱线略高,以弥补纤维染色对纤维损伤,造成的染色纤维可纺性下降以及物理性能的下降。Since the fibers used in the yarn-spun yarn are dyed by the fiber and then subjected to the spinning process, and the fiber dyeing has certain damage to the physical and mechanical properties of the fiber, the process of the spinning process of the color spinning yarn is directed to this case. The setting is different from ordinary white spinning yarn. Color-spun yarn products are usually oriented to the mid-to-high-end market, so the cotton blending grade of the raw material is usually slightly higher than the ordinary yarn of the same yarn count to compensate for the fiber damage caused by fiber dyeing, resulting in a decrease in the spinnability of the dyed fiber and physical The performance is declining.
前纺工艺配置:Front spinning process configuration:
色纤维→开清棉→梳棉→预并条、条并卷→精梳→并条(2道)。Color fiber → open cotton → carding → pre-parallel, strip and roll → combing → draw (2).
纺纱是一个系统工程,开清棉是棉纺工程的起点,是决定棉纺工程质量的关键工序之一。开清棉工艺应力求科学合理,使生产按最佳流程和工艺条件进行。Spinning is a systematic project. Opening cotton is the starting point of cotton spinning engineering and one of the key processes to determine the quality of cotton spinning engineering. The process of opening the cotton cleaning process should be scientific and reasonable, so that the production can be carried out according to the optimal process and process conditions.
采用原棉染色,由于棉纤维开松不够充分,同一染缸所染的棉纤维会有一定的色差,同时,经过不同染缸染色的纤维也会存在一定的缸差。在抓棉工序中,色纤维的排包、混合同样需要重视,以解决色差、提高均匀度。Using raw cotton dyeing, because the cotton fiber is not fully opened, the cotton fiber dyed by the same dyeing cylinder will have a certain color difference. At the same time, the fiber dyed by different dyeing cylinders will have a certain cylinder difference. In the cotton-scissing process, the packaging and mixing of the colored fibers also need to be paid attention to in order to solve the chromatic aberration and improve the uniformity.
表1.染色纤维性能指标Table 1. Performance indicators of dyed fibers
Figure PCTCN2017107927-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2017107927-appb-000001
原棉经过染色后,纤维物理性能下降,在开松过程中,应遵循“先缓后剧,渐进开松”,达到少损伤纤维的效果。除杂过程与纺普通白纱工艺相近,采对性用早落杂质的工艺,以防杂质在加工过程中破碎,更难以清除。为了保证色纤维的充分混合及均匀输送,做到稳定供应,在开清棉流程中配置两台棉箱(给棉机)。染色纤维经过染色和水洗,纤维中所含杂质有所下降,所用开清棉工艺中,配置3个开清点数,通常以开棉机和清棉机打手为开清点。After the raw cotton is dyed, the physical properties of the fiber are degraded. During the opening process, the effect of “slowing down the play and gradually opening the looseness” should be followed to achieve the effect of less damage to the fiber. The impurity removal process is similar to the spinning ordinary white yarn process, and the process of using the early impurities is adopted to prevent the impurities from being broken during the processing, and it is more difficult to remove. In order to ensure the thorough mixing and uniform transportation of the color fiber, a stable supply is provided, and two cotton boxes (supply machines) are arranged in the opening and cleaning process. The dyed fiber is dyed and washed with water, and the impurities contained in the fiber are reduced. In the open cleaning process, three opening points are arranged, and the opener is usually opened by the opener and the cotton cleaner.
开清棉机台配置:Open cleaning machine configuration:
FA002(2台)→FA121→FA104→FA022→FA106→A062→A092AST→FA141FA002 (2 units) → FA121 → FA104 → FA022 → FA106 → A062 → A092AST → FA141
纤维经过染色,物理机械性能下降,开清棉工序中,开棉机打手速度适当降低,可以减少纤维损伤,降低棉结增加量,开棉机各尘棒间距按棉流自入口至出口由大减小。由于色纤维成本较高,开清棉和梳棉工序,在提高单机除杂效能的基础上,适当减小落棉率。落棉率控制在原棉含杂率的70-75%。After the fiber is dyed, the physical and mechanical properties are degraded. In the process of opening the cotton, the speed of the tapping machine is appropriately reduced, which can reduce the fiber damage and reduce the amount of neps. The distance between the dust bars of the opener is from the inlet to the outlet. Reduced. Due to the high cost of the color fiber, the cleaning and carding process is carried out, and the cotton removal rate is appropriately reduced on the basis of improving the efficiency of the single machine. The drop rate is controlled at 70-75% of the raw cotton.
染色纤维在梳棉工序相对原棉更容易形成短绒,梳棉机刺辊速度适当降低,减少握持预分梳作用,降低纤维损伤。同时,锡林速度可以保持与普通白纱相同速度,锡林速度降低会减少单位时间内作用于纤维上的针尖数,降低梳理作用,且降低锡林速度会使,锡林的分梳负荷提高,纤维容易在针面上搓转而形成棉结,锡林速度降低也不利于排杂。The dyed fiber is more likely to form short velvet in the carding process than the original cotton, and the speed of the licking roller of the carding machine is appropriately reduced, the holding pre-carding action is reduced, and the fiber damage is reduced. At the same time, the speed of the cylinder can be kept at the same speed as that of ordinary white yarn. The decrease of the speed of the cylinder will reduce the number of needles acting on the fiber per unit time, reduce the combing effect, and reduce the speed of the cylinder, which will increase the combing load of the cylinder. The fiber is easy to twist on the needle surface to form a neps, and the speed of the cylinder is also unfavorable for the discharge.
精梳准备工序采用:预并条(6根)→条并卷(28根)The combing preparation process is: pre-adhesive (6) → strip and roll (28)
采用此工艺,棉卷横向比较均匀,纤维有一定扩散,小卷定量重,能提高精梳机产量,同时有利于去除短绒。With this process, the lap is relatively uniform in the transverse direction, the fiber has a certain diffusion, and the small volume is quantitatively heavy, which can improve the output of the comber and at the same time facilitate the removal of the linters.
粗纱工艺配置:Roving process configuration:
由于所纺细纱支数较低,细纱机具有较强的牵伸能力,所以粗纱牵伸偏小掌握(6.1~7.5),粗纱定量适当选取(3.5~4.5g/10m),粗纱捻系数偏小掌握(85~91),有利于提高粗纱质量,还可以节约粗纱机台。Due to the low number of spun yarns, the spinning machine has a strong drafting capacity, so the roving draft is too small (6.1 to 7.5), the roving is appropriately selected (3.5 to 4.5 g/10 m), and the roving coefficient is small. Mastering (85-91) is beneficial to improve the quality of the roving and save the roving machine.
细纱工艺配置:Spinning process configuration:
在细纱工序生产渐变纱,三个牵伸通道的牵伸倍数呈动态变化,且总牵伸倍数和后区牵伸倍数跨度很大,需要综合各因素制定工艺,对细纱工艺要求较高。In the spinning process, the drawing yarns of the three drafting channels are dynamically changed, and the total drafting ratio and the drafting ratio of the rear zone are large. It is necessary to synthesize various factors to formulate the process, and the requirements for the spinning process are high.
后牵伸区工艺:由于各通道后区牵伸倍数动态变化,且变化范围较大,后区需要承担较大的牵伸,后牵伸区中的粗纱捻度较高,纤维之间的抱合力较大, 需要适当增大后牵伸区罗拉中心距,设置中、后罗拉中心距为65mm。Post-drafting zone process: Due to the dynamic change of the drafting ratio in the rear zone of each channel, and the variation range is large, the rear zone needs to bear a large draft, the roving twist in the rear drafting zone is high, and the cohesion between the fibers Larger, It is necessary to appropriately increase the center distance of the rear drafting zone roller, and set the center distance of the middle and rear rollers to be 65 mm.
总牵伸倍数和后区牵伸倍数变化范围都较大,罗拉加压偏大掌握,设置为前、中、后加压180*120*140N/双锭。皮圈采用弹性钳口,综合考虑牵伸区中纤维量,在牵伸倍数低,纤维量大时,不能出硬头,在牵伸倍数高,纤维量小时,又要对纤维有效控制,皮圈钳口隔距适中掌握,采用3.0隔距块。纺制渐变色纱,动态变化牵伸比,锭速7000r/min较普通白纺纱低很多。纺纱工艺参数如表2所示。The total drafting ratio and the drafting ratio of the rear zone are both large, and the roller pressure is too large to be controlled, and the pressure is set to 180*120*140N/double ingot before, during and after. The apron adopts elastic jaws, taking into account the amount of fiber in the drafting zone. When the drafting ratio is low and the fiber volume is large, the hard head cannot be produced. When the drafting ratio is high and the fiber amount is small, the fiber is effectively controlled. The ring jaws are moderately controlled, with a 3.0 gauge block. Spinning graded yarn, dynamic change draft ratio, spindle speed 7000r/min is much lower than ordinary white spinning. The spinning process parameters are shown in Table 2.
表2纺纱工艺参数Table 2 Spinning process parameters
前区牵伸Front zone draft 总牵伸1Total draw 1 总牵伸2Total draft 2 总牵伸3Total draft 3
25.7725.77 30.9230.92 247.4247.4 247.4247.4
29.4529.45 35.3435.34 123.7123.7 247.4247.4
34.3634.36 41.2341.23 82.4782.47 247.4247.4
41.2341.23 49.4849.48 61.8561.85 247.4247.4
41.2341.23 61.8561.85 49.4849.48 247.4247.4
34.3634.36 82.4782.47 41.2341.23 247.4247.4
29.4529.45 123.7123.7 35.3435.34 247.4247.4
25.7725.77 247.4247.4 30.9230.92 247.4247.4
29.4529.45 247.4247.4 35.3435.34 123.7123.7
34.3634.36 247.4247.4 41.2341.23 82.4782.47
41.2341.23 247.4247.4 49.4849.48 61.8561.85
41.2341.23 247.4247.4 61.8561.85 49.4849.48
34.3634.36 247.4247.4 82.4782.47 41.2341.23
29.4529.45 247.4247.4 123.7123.7 35.3435.34
25.7725.77 247.4247.4 247.4247.4 30.9230.92
29.4529.45 123.7123.7 247.4247.4 35.3435.34
34.3634.36 82.4782.47 247.4247.4 41.2341.23
41.2341.23 61.8561.85 247.4247.4 49.4849.48
41.2341.23 49.4849.48 247.4247.4 61.8561.85
34.3634.36 41.2341.23 247.4247.4 82.4782.47
(3)横机工艺(3) Flat knitting machine technology
本发明产品采用电脑横机进行编织,主要针对了电脑横机的纱线张力进行了优化(50~60cN),从而避免在编织过程中因纱线打结造成断纱,从而导致面料线圈不匀,出现条影等瑕疵。具体方法是先将纱线进行润滑及上蜡处理,以提高纱线的顺滑度,采用新型的储纱装置对其张力进行严格控制,从而很好避免因纱线引力不匀而造成断纱,瑕疵等问题。The product of the invention is woven by computerized flat knitting machine, and is mainly optimized for the yarn tension of the computerized flat knitting machine (50-60 cN), thereby avoiding yarn breakage caused by yarn knotting during the knitting process, thereby causing unevenness of the fabric coil. , there is a shadow and so on. The specific method is to first lubricate and wax the yarn to improve the smoothness of the yarn, and adopt a new type of yarn storage device to strictly control the tension, so as to avoid yarn breakage caused by uneven yarn gravity. , 瑕疵 and other issues.
本发明的产品采用织物组织为单面平针。横密:62.5/10cm;纵密:39/10cm。 针号:12G,在电脑横机上编织。纱线:采用30S/2股线。克重:293克/平方米。本发明制备得到的面料手感柔软挺括,颜色变化丰富,层次鲜明,具有立体感和幻彩效果。The product of the present invention employs a woven fabric structure as a single jersey needle. Horizontal density: 62.5/10cm; longitudinal density: 39/10cm. Needle number: 12G, weaving on a computerized flat knitting machine. Yarn: 30 S /2 strands. Weight: 293 g / square meter. The fabric prepared by the invention has soft and firm hand feeling, rich color change, distinct layers, and has a three-dimensional effect and a illusion effect.
成品检测结果:Finished product test results:
经国家纺织产品质量监督检验中心(江阴)检测:产品质量符合FZ/T73010-2008《针织工艺衫》一等品要求,产品安全性符合GB 18401-2010《国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范》标准B类要求;。具体如下:Tested by the National Textile Product Quality Supervision and Inspection Center (Jiangyin): the product quality meets the requirements of FZ/T73010-2008 "Knitting Craft Shirt", and the product safety conforms to GB 18401-2010 "National Textile Product Basic Safety Technical Specification" Standard B Class requirements; details as follows:
耐水色牢度:4-5级(技术要求3级);耐酸汗渍色牢度:4-5级(技术要求3级);耐碱汗渍色牢度:4-5级(技术要求3级)。耐摩擦牢度:干摩擦:4-5级(技术要求3级)。未检测出甲醛(技术要求小于75mg/kg)。Water fastness: 4-5 (technical requirement 3); acid fastness: 4-5 (technical requirement 3); alkali fastness: 4-5 (technical requirement 3) . Rubbing fastness: dry friction: 4-5 (technical requirements level 3). No formaldehyde was detected (technical requirements less than 75 mg/kg).
本发明对原料选取,纱线设计,纺纱技术参数优选及横机工艺优化,最终成功开发出了多彩渐变数码纱针织面料。经相关标准检测,所开发的产品未检测出甲醛,具有很好环保特点;耐洗色牢度、耐摩擦牢度均高于标准,达到《国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范》标准规定,符合B类安全性要求,产品质量等级符合《针织工艺衫》一等品要求。产品生产工艺可行、产品质量及功能达到国内先进水平,并已批量生产,取得了较好的经济效益和社会效益。The invention selects the raw material selection, the yarn design, the spinning technical parameter optimization and the flat knitting machine process optimization, and finally successfully develops the colorful gradient digital yarn knitted fabric. According to the relevant standards, the developed products have not detected formaldehyde, and have good environmental protection characteristics; the color fastness to washing and the rubbing fastness are higher than the standard, reaching the standard of the National Textile Products Basic Safety Technical Specifications, in line with B Class safety requirements, product quality level meets the requirements of the first class of "Knitting Craft Shirt". The production process of the product is feasible, the product quality and function have reached the domestic advanced level, and it has been mass-produced, and achieved good economic and social benefits.
以上已对本发明创造的较佳实施例进行了具体说明,但本发明创造并不限于所述实施例,熟悉本领域的技术人员在不违背本发明创造精神的前提下还可做出种种的等同的变型或替换,这些等同的变型或替换均包含在本申请权利要求所限定的范围内。 The preferred embodiments of the present invention have been specifically described above, but the present invention is not limited to the embodiments, and those skilled in the art can make various equivalents without departing from the inventive spirit of the present invention. Modifications or substitutions of the invention are intended to be included within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims (8)

  1. 一种多彩渐变数码纱针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:A method for preparing a colorful gradient digital yarn knitted fabric, comprising the steps of:
    A)纱线生产工序:选用青、品红和黄三种颜色的棉纤维为原料进行粗纱条纺制,纱线采用数码纺纱机纺制,不同颜色渐变混纺比变化量为15%,每个比例的变化长度为10cm;所纺30S渐变纱同时与30S纯黄色纱进行合股并线;A) Yarn production process: the roving strips are spun from cotton fibers of cyan, magenta and yellow. The yarns are spun by a digital spinning machine. The variation of the blending ratio of different colors is 15%. a ratio of change in length of 10cm; gradient spun yarn 30 S and 30 S simultaneously plied yarn and pure yellow line;
    B)横机编织工序:在电脑横机上进行编织,面料采用织物组织为单面平针;横密:62.5/10cm;纵密:39/10cm。B) Flat knitting process: Weaving on a computerized flat knitting machine, the fabric is made of a single-sided flat needle; the transverse density: 62.5/10cm; the longitudinal density: 39/10cm.
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的多彩渐变数码纱针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的步骤A中,首先将青,品红和黄三种颜色棉纤维经抓取、混合、开松、成卷、梳理、并条、粗纱工序后分别制成粗纱条;然后将三个不同颜色粗纱同时喂入经后区牵伸改造的数码纺纱机进行纺纱。The method for preparing a colorful gradation digital yarn knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step A, the three colors of cyan, magenta and yellow cotton fibers are firstly grasped, mixed, opened, and The roving strips are respectively formed after the winding, carding, drawing and roving processes; then, the three different color rovings are simultaneously fed into the digital spinning machine which is drafted by the rear zone for spinning.
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的多彩渐变数码纱针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的步骤A中,粗纱条纺制之前还包括前纺工艺:色纤维→开清棉→梳棉→预并条、条并卷→精梳→2道并条。The method for preparing a colorful gradation digital yarn knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step A, before the roving strip is spun, the pre-spinning process is further included: color fiber → open cotton → carding → pre- Parallel, strip and roll → combing → 2 draws.
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的多彩渐变数码纱针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的步骤A中,粗纱牵伸6.1~7.5,粗纱定量3.5~4.5g/10m,粗纱捻系数85~91。The method for preparing a colorful progressive digital yarn knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step A, the roving draft is 6.1 to 7.5, the roving is quantitatively 3.5 to 4.5 g/10 m, and the roving twist coefficient is 85 to 91. .
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的多彩渐变数码纱针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的步骤A中,设置中、后罗拉中心距为65mm;罗拉加压设置为前、中、后加压180*120*140N/双锭,锭速7000r/min。The method for preparing a colorful progressive digital yarn knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step A, the center distance of the middle and rear rollers is set to 65 mm; and the roller pressurization is set to press before, during, and after. 180*120*140N/double spindle, spindle speed 7000r/min.
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的多彩渐变数码纱针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的步骤B中,针号:12G;纱线:采用30S/2股线;克重:293克/平方米;纱线张力50~60cN。The method for preparing a colorful gradation digital yarn knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step B, the needle number is: 12G; the yarn: 30 S /2 strands; and the gram weight: 293 g/ Square meters; yarn tension 50 ~ 60cN.
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的多彩渐变数码纱针织面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述的步骤B中,编织时先对纱线进行润滑及上蜡处理。The method for preparing a colorful progressive digital yarn knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step B, the yarn is first lubricated and waxed.
  8. 一种多彩渐变数码纱针织面料,其特征在于,所述的多彩渐变数码纱针织面料采用如权利要求1-7任一所述的制备方法制备得到。 A colorful progressive digital yarn knitted fabric, characterized in that the colorful progressive digital yarn knitted fabric is prepared by the preparation method according to any one of claims 1-7.
PCT/CN2017/107927 2017-09-18 2017-10-27 Multicolor gradient digital yarn knitted fabric and preparation method therefor WO2019051939A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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CN201710842038.7A CN107460612A (en) 2017-09-18 2017-09-18 A kind of colorful gradient number yarn knitting fabric and preparation method thereof
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CN110184721B (en) * 2019-06-28 2020-07-07 愉悦家纺有限公司 Gradient colorful fabric and weaving method thereof
CN110485019B (en) * 2019-08-14 2021-11-02 愉悦家纺有限公司 Method for spinning gradient yarns by coupling and blending double-base-color fibers based on discrete gradient chromatography
CN113279126B (en) * 2021-05-05 2023-01-17 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 Knitted fabric with antibacterial and bacteriostatic physical gradual change effect and weaving method thereof
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