CN102119787A - Working process of hemp and wool blended sweater - Google Patents
Working process of hemp and wool blended sweater Download PDFInfo
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- CN102119787A CN102119787A CN 201110048943 CN201110048943A CN102119787A CN 102119787 A CN102119787 A CN 102119787A CN 201110048943 CN201110048943 CN 201110048943 CN 201110048943 A CN201110048943 A CN 201110048943A CN 102119787 A CN102119787 A CN 102119787A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a working process of hemp and wool blended sweater, comprising the following technical steps of: firstly, doubling and twisting hemp fibre yarns and combed cotton fibre yarns at 380 strands per metre into blended yarns, dyeing the blended yarns and rinsing the dyed blended yarns; secondly, softening and finishing the rinsed blended yarns by hydrophilic silicone oil; thirdly, knitting the softened blended yarns into a sweater knitting piece, lubricating the blended yarns before knitting, feeding the lubricated blended yarns into a knitting machine to knit the sweater knitting piece, adjusting the density of the knitting machine before knitting and/or during knitting, arranging a protective tube in a passage used for the passing of the blended yarns, and meanwhile, controlling tension of the yarns by a double-clamp device; finally, storing the knitted piece-type sweaters in a warehouse after looping, hand sewing, washing, drying, ironing and packaging operations. The invention overcomes the problem that sweaters in the prior art are difficult to knit with the blended yarns of hemp fibre and cotton fibre.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the processing technology of sweater, be specifically related to the processing technology of a kind of hemp and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater.
Background technology
Because there are many ordinate bars on the hemp surface, many crackles that distributing, crack distribution is to the cell lumen.The hemp lumen is bigger, account for the 1/2-1/3 of cross-sectional area, than ramie, flax, cotton much bigger, this structure can produce excellent capillary effect, the hemp molecule contains hydrophilic radical again, thus make hemp moisture absorption, perspire, ventilative, heat conductivility is especially outstanding.The wet speed of loosing of hemp cloth is up to 12.6mg/min, is 3 times of bafta.Compare with bafta, under same climatic environment, the hemp clothes can make low about 5 ℃ of human body sensory temperature, and the superiority of comparing its wet-guide quick-drying with chemical fibre is more remarkable.In addition, the hemp manufactured goods have also that mildew-resistant is antibacterial, antiultraviolet, ecological health, special performance such as antistatic.
Along with the hemp of producing is more and more thinner, the production of 100% pure hemp fabric becomes a reality, yet most hemp is and chemical fibre blending such as cotton or viscose glue, polyamide fibre.The most successful spinning technique is an air spinning, and except that traditional spinning technique, the friction spun yarn system also can be successfully the hemp spun yarn, and this technology can also spin dissimilar covering yarns, can spin flame with friction spinning method.Hemp has anti-ultraviolet performance (this gives the credit to the lignin of high-load), when reaching the required anti-wear performance of military clothes and require, the weight of hemp cloth is significantly less than conventional fabrics, and in addition, hemp also can easily be used to produce durable, comfortable twill clothes or the like.
The moisture absorption of hemp, steam permeability: because there are many ordinate bars on the hemp surface, surface distributed many crackles. and these crack distribution are to the cell lumen, and the hemp lumen is bigger, accounts for the 1/2-1/3 of cross-sectional area, than ramie, flax, cotton much bigger.The excellent capillary effect of this structure generation is added the hemp molecule and is contained hydrophilic radical, thereby makes moisture absorption, the perspire of hemp, and saturating vapour heat conductivility is especially outstanding.Be exposed to general moisture the reaching about 12% of airborne big ramie product; Humidity reaches at 95% o'clock in air, moisturely reaches 30%, and saturation regain is 50%.The hemp clothes are compared with bafta and can be made low about 5 ℃ of human body sensory temperature, are particularly suitable for the lining in summer.Hemp cloth is compared no prodding and itching feeling with other crudefiber crops, hemp is the thinner a kind of flaxen fiber of fineness in the various flaxen fibers. below hemp ultimate fibre fineness 0.25 Tekes, it only is 1/3 of ramie, approach cotton, and the fibrocyte two ends are blunt circle, therefore the hemp textile particularly soft is comfortable, and the smooth exquisiteness of feel need not special prodding and itching feeling and the roughness that just can avoid other linen textiles of handling.The antistatic property of hemp, generally, because the moisture pick-up properties of hemp is fine, be exposed to airborne hemp textile, general moisture content can reach 30%, and feel does not also think moist, so hemp textile can be avoided static focus easily, can be because of friction has not caused static and balling-up yet, and the absorption dust.Heat-resisting, the sun-proof of hemp and decay resistance, the heat resistance of hemp is better, can anti-370 ℃ high temperature, light fastness is good, and sea water corrosion resistant is good, and is strong durable.Therefore, hemp textile is suitable for makeing the work clothes of steel-making, sun-proof clothes and the specific function that makes preparations for sowing especially, also can do parasol, Camp tent, seat cushions.The ultraviolet radiation preventing function of hemp, because of the cross section of hemp is irregular polygon, oval shape or polygonal etc.Lumen is line style or ellipse.In addition, the spiral strain line is arranged in the hemp molecular structure, many shuttles shape, looser is so hemp and goods have good dissipation role to sound wave, light wave.When ultraviolet ray shone on the fiber, a part formed the multilayer refraction and is absorbed, and another part forms diffuse reflection, and not only gloss is soft to make hemp cloth, and good ultraviolet radiation preventing function is arranged.The antimildew and antibacterial health care of hemp, the lumen of hemp cell is bigger, and oxygenous amount is more.The anaerobic bacteria that could survive under oxygen free condition can't be survived, thereby have good anti-antimildew and antibacterial function.In addition, the hemp aldehydes matter in the hemp textile also has tangible bacteriostasis.
But because multiply single thread plying can reduce the bending rigidity of hemp greatly, make the more difficulty that is woven with of yarn in the knitting, the knitting equipment and the knitting of up to the present producing hemp braid, double jersey are also relatively more rare, therefore, a kind of sweater series products with functions such as antibiotic, uvioresistants of exploitation has become those skilled in the art technical problem to be solved.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to overcome in the prior art, difficult problem with hemp and cotton fiber mixed yarn establishment sweater, and the bending rigidity problem that can reduce hemp with hemp single thread plying greatly, provide a kind of employing hemp and cotton fiber as raw material, weave sweater knitted processing technology.
For achieving the above object, technical scheme of the present invention provides the processing technology of a kind of hemp and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater, it is characterized in that, described processing technology comprises following processing step:
S1: bifilar and twist with the fingers into scribbled with the yarn of a hemp and the yarn of a combing cotton fibre with 380 sth. made by twisting/rice, with described scribbled as the sweater knitted raw material of braiding;
S2: with the processing of dyeing of described raw material, it is that raw material is dropped in the dye bath that described dyeing is handled, in dye bath, add entry again and the double-active group dyestuff is made dye solution, temperature with described dye solution is heated to 40～50 ℃ then, and the programming rate of described dye solution is controlled at about 15 ℃/h, described dye solution is incubated 4～6h after arriving design temperature again, should often stir and stir described raw material in dyeing course, and should not make raw material emersion liquid level;
S3: the raw material rinsing after will dyeing, drying, oven dry;
S4: soft treatment, the sweater after the oven dry is carried out soft finish with hydrophilic silicon oil again;
S5: knit sheet with the braiding of the scribbled after soft treatment sweater, before knitting sheet, earlier scribbled is lubricated processing, described lubricated is that cake wax is pressed on the scribbled, rely on cake wax deadweight and scribbled friction to wax automatically, described cake wax is the cake wax of being made in 10: 1 ratio by semi-refined paraffin wax after the fusing and mechanical white oil;
S6: knit sheet, to knit sheet in the feeding of the scribbled after the lubricated braider, adjust the density of braider before knitting sheet and/or in the braiding process, and the passage that scribbled passes through is provided with protection tube, with the tension force of double fastener spring arrangement control yarn, in compilation process, also to check knitting needle at any time simultaneously;
S7: will knit sheet sweater behind the sheet through running-on, hand seam, washing, oven dry, wholely scald, can put in storage after the packing.
Wherein:
Hemp accounts for 55wt% in described scribbled, and combing cotton fibre accounts for 45wt%, and the line density of described hemp and combing cotton fibre is 18.5 Tekes.
Described cake wax is the hollow type cylindrical structure, and the diameter of described cake wax is 45mm, and the quality of described cake wax is about 35 grams, and the cake wax after using is no less than 15 grams.
The density of described adjustment braider is that braider is adjusted to the density that is made into sweater for horizontal close: 88 stringers/10cm; Vertical close: 72 lines/10cm.
Described grammes per square metre of knitting sheet is: 120 grams/square metre.
Described scribbled can be weaved with open-end spinning frame, and is also available with the weaving of friction spun yarn system.
Described soft finish is that hydrophilic silicon oil is added to the water, and the concentration of hydrophilic silicon oil in water is adjusted to about 2%.
11.22 lis of ox/Tekes of the average fracture strength of described scribbled, average elongation at break 4.1%, 273.57 Ns/Tekes of initial modulus, 19.44 lis of ox/Tekes of hook knotting strength, hook knot elongation at break 3.515%, average number of twists 832.3 sth. made by twisting/m, twist factor 138.7.
Advantage of the present invention is with beneficial effect: because the present invention becomes can be used as the scribbled that is used to weave sweater with hemp with the blending of combing cotton fiber, with specific technology this scribbled dyeing processing, soft treatment and lubricated have been carried out simultaneously, use again in the scribbled feeding braider that above-mentioned processing has and knit sheet, again through running-on, hand seam, washing, oven dry, wholely scald, can put in storage after the packing, just can knit out the sweater goods of hemp and cotton blending by above-mentioned technology.Thereby solved with hemp and cotton fiber mixed yarn establishment sweater difficult technologies problem, also solved the rigidity problem that can reduce the hemp bending resistance with single thread hemp plying greatly.Make the excellent specific property of hemp in sweater class clothes, obtain fully playing.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with embodiment, the specific embodiment of the present invention is further described.Following examples only are used for technical scheme of the present invention more clearly is described, and can not limit protection scope of the present invention with this.
The present invention is the processing technology of a kind of hemp and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater, and this processing technology comprises following processing step:
The first step: bifilar and twist with the fingers into scribbled with the yarn of a hemp and the yarn of a combing cotton fibre with 380 sth. made by twisting/rice, with described scribbled as the sweater knitted raw material of braiding;
Second step: with the processing of dyeing of described raw material, it is that raw material is dropped in the dye bath that described dyeing is handled, in dye bath, add entry again and the double-active group dyestuff is made dye solution, temperature with described dye solution is heated to 40～50 ℃ then, and the programming rate of described dye solution is controlled at about 15 ℃/h, described dye solution is incubated 4～6h after arriving design temperature again, should often stir and stir described raw material in dyeing course, and should not make raw material emersion liquid level;
The 3rd step: the raw material rinsing after will dyeing, drying, oven dry;
The 4th step: soft treatment, the sweater after the oven dry is carried out soft finish with hydrophilic silicon oil again;
The 5th step: knit sheet with the braiding of the scribbled after soft treatment sweater, before knitting sheet, earlier scribbled is lubricated processing, described lubricated is that cake wax is pressed on the scribbled, rely on cake wax deadweight and scribbled friction to wax automatically, described cake wax is the cake wax of being made in 10: 1 ratio by semi-refined paraffin wax after the fusing and mechanical white oil;
The 6th step: knit sheet, to knit sheet in the feeding of the scribbled after the lubricated braider, adjust the density of braider before knitting sheet and/or in the braiding process, and the passage that scribbled passes through is provided with protection tube, with the tension force of double fastener spring arrangement control yarn, in compilation process, also to check knitting needle at any time simultaneously;
The 7th step: will knit sheet sweater behind the sheet through running-on, hand seam, washing, oven dry, wholely scald, can put in storage after the packing.
The present invention is on the basis of above-mentioned processing step, and hemp accounts for 55wt% in the described scribbled, and combing cotton fibre accounts for 45wt%, and the line density of described hemp and combing cotton fibre is 18.5 Tekes.Described cake wax is the hollow type cylindrical structure, and the diameter of described cake wax is 45mm, and the quality of described cake wax is about 35 grams, and the cake wax after using is no less than 15 grams.The density of described adjustment braider is that braider is adjusted to the density that is made into sweater for horizontal close: 88 stringers/10cm; Vertical close: 72 lines/10cm.Described grammes per square metre of knitting sheet is: 120 grams/square metre.Described scribbled can be weaved with open-end spinning frame, and is also available with the weaving of friction spun yarn system.Described soft finish is that hydrophilic silicon oil is added to the water, and the concentration of hydrophilic silicon oil in water is adjusted to about 2%.11.22 lis of ox/Tekes of the average fracture strength of described scribbled, average elongation at break 4.1%, 273.57 Ns/Tekes of initial modulus, 19.44 lis of ox/Tekes of hook knotting strength, hook knot elongation at break 3.515%, average number of twists 832.3 sth. made by twisting/m, twist factor 138.7.
The concrete processing technology of a kind of hemp of the present invention and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater is:
At first prepare white hemp and combed cotton blended base yarn → dyeing → rewinding → knit sheet → running-on → flatcar → hand seam → washing → oven dry → whole scalding → packing → warehouse-in
1, the selection of the selection of fiber and yarn blending ratio
The hemp ultimate fibre is too short, and regularity is poor, and promptly the length variation coefficient is bigger, can only adopt half deguming technology, by cull the ultimate fibre adhesion is formed fibre bundle, because fiber is comparatively firm, cohesive force is little, and spinning has difficulties.Therefore, on raw material, determine to select for use hemp and cotton fiber blending.This is because the cotton fiber softness, and length, fineness are even, and good spinnability can remedy the performance deficiency that hemp exists.In conjunction with the research of hemp yarn anti-microbial property, and difficulty in the actual production and economy, determine that it is 55/45 that the blending ratio of hemp and combed cotton blended yarn is spun in examination.The key property of this mixed yarn is as follows: 11.22 lis of ox/Tekes of average fracture strength, average elongation at break 4.1%, 273.57 Ns/Tekes of initial modulus, 19.44 lis of ox/Tekes of hook knotting strength, hook knot elongation at break 3.515%, average number of twists 832.3/m, twist factor 138.7.Adopt half deguming technology again when containing assorted more the spinning, make that many impurity can not be removed on the fiber, tie attached to forming thickness joint or joint on the yarn owing to hemp itself, therefore, must to reject the yarn defect, improve the woven performance of yarn through preparatory process before the knitting.
2, the fabric tissue parameter is determined
Raw material is with two 18.5 Tekes, and 55% hemp/45% combing cotton fibre mixed yarn is bifilar and twist with the fingers resultant yarn with 380 sth. made by twisting/rice, as sweater knitted knitted material.
Sweater density is, and is horizontal close: 88 stringers/10cm; Vertical close: 72 lines/10cm.
Pin number: 12G;
Grammes per square metre: 120 grams/square metre.
The major technique key that solves in development process of the present invention comprises:
1, solves the horizontal defect problem of knitting in the sheet by the density of adjusting loom.
2, in whole braiding process for guaranteeing that passage component is bright and clean, anti-ly twine anti-blockingly, the yarn path is adopted the porcelain tube protection and is diligently checked measure such as knitting needle, with anti-wear.Should note controlling the tension force of yarn simultaneously, the tension force of control yarn mainly is to adopt the double fastener spring arrangement, selects rational technical matters parameter simultaneously, to guarantee the quality of product.
3, when sweater is weaved, earlier yarn is lubricated processing, to improve the smoothness of yarn, avoid in weaving process because of the yarn knotting causes broken yarn, thereby cause lining flaws such as broken hole to occur.Last ceroplastic is: No. 54 semi-refined paraffin waxs that use Sinopec Group's Shanghai Gaoqiao Petrochemical Company production are after fusing; By oily wax ratio be: 1: 100, (so-called white oil typically referred to slab oil to be added into mechanical white oil.It is through the mineral oil behind the special deep refining.White oil is colourless, tasteless, chemical inertness, light stability can be good, basic composition is saturated hydrocarbon structure, and the content of materials such as aromatic hydrocarbon, nitrogen, oxygen, sulphur is approximately zero); Making diameter again is 4.5 centimetres of hollow circular cylinder cake waxs that are about 35 grams.Tension force platen on the alternative rewinder of the cake wax of made is pressed on the yarn, in the yarn package process, relies on cake wax deadweight and yarn friction to wax automatically.Cake wax weight in this process can constantly reduce, and should control it and be no less than 15 grams.
4, soft finish
Conventional soft finish is to add non-hydrophilic silicone oil preventing the generation in sewing needle hole in the knitted fabric, but concerning the hemp lining, but can suppress its good hydroscopic fast-drying performance, should adopt hydrophilic silicon oil that lining is carried out soft finish.The hydrophily inorganic agent is A2008, concentration 2%.
Creation of the present invention is
(1) owing to adopted two kinds of fiber blends, in order promptly to keep the functional characteristic of hemp, can satisfy the braiding requirement of blend fibre again, choose reasonable blending rate and fabric construction parameters make hemp functional obtain good embodiment.The blending ratio of determining the weaving hempcotton blended yarn is 55/45.The key property of mixed yarn: 11.22 lis of ox/Tekes of average fracture strength, average elongation at break 4.1%.
(2) dyeing: because degree of crystallinity, the degree of orientation of hemp are higher, structure is tight, and stainability is poor, and the present invention has selected reactive dyes with double active group, processes for use when dyeing, thereby has obtained dye-uptake and degree of fixation preferably, and dye level is good.Again owing in dyeing course, often stir and stir raw material, and do not make raw material emersion liquid level.It is 7 that the pH value of dye solution is transferred to, and is neutral, therefore needn't neutralize to dying the back raffinate, has simplified the wastewater treatment operation, has reduced the pollution to environment.Programming rate has been controlled in strictness in dyeing process, makes the effect between dyestuff and the fiber stable as far as possible, even.Since dyestuff with fiber generation bonding reaction in hydrolysis also takes place, especially when temperature control not at that time, can cause degree of fixation obviously to reduce.So the present invention's Type B dyestuff (Type B dyestuff: be double-active group dyestuff, under 60-80 ℃ temperature dye, under alkali condition, can with cellulose form covalent bond fixation high to reactivity.), than low 20 1 30 ℃ of common reactive dye, in addition, the present invention adopts slow intensification mode of heating in dyeing course when selecting temperature for use in the present invention, and will be incubated the long time after reaching design temperature, and the assurance dyestuff can fully move and dye.
(3) braiding is lubricated processing with yarn, promptly yarn is lubricated processing,, avoid in weaving process because of the yarn knotting causes broken yarn, thereby cause lining flaws such as broken hole to occur to improve the smoothness of yarn.
The above only is a preferred implementation of the present invention; should be pointed out that for those skilled in the art, under the prerequisite that does not break away from the technology of the present invention principle; can also make some improvements and modifications, these improvements and modifications also should be considered as protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (8)
1. the processing technology of a hemp and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater is characterized in that, described processing technology comprises following processing step:
S1: bifilar and twist with the fingers into scribbled with the yarn of a hemp and the yarn of a combing cotton fibre with 380 sth. made by twisting/rice, with described scribbled as the sweater knitted raw material of braiding;
S2: with the processing of dyeing of described raw material, it is that raw material is dropped in the dye bath that described dyeing is handled, in dye bath, add entry again and the double-active group dyestuff is made dye solution, temperature with described dye solution is heated to 40～50 ℃ then, and the programming rate of described dye solution is controlled at about 15 ℃/h, described dye solution is incubated 4～6h after arriving design temperature again, should often stir and stir described raw material in dyeing course, and should not make raw material emersion liquid level;
S3: the raw material rinsing after will dyeing, drying, oven dry;
S4: soft treatment, the sweater after the oven dry is carried out soft finish with hydrophilic silicon oil again;
S5: knit sheet with the braiding of the scribbled after soft treatment sweater, before knitting sheet, earlier scribbled is lubricated processing, described lubricated is that cake wax is pressed on the scribbled, rely on cake wax deadweight and scribbled friction to wax automatically, described cake wax is the cake wax of being made in 10: 1 ratio by semi-refined paraffin wax after the fusing and mechanical white oil;
S6: knit sheet, to knit sheet in the feeding of the scribbled after the lubricated braider, adjust the density of braider before knitting sheet and/or in the braiding process, and the passage that scribbled passes through is provided with protection tube, with the tension force of double fastener spring arrangement control yarn, in compilation process, also to check knitting needle at any time simultaneously;
S7: will knit sheet sweater behind the sheet through running-on, hand seam, washing, oven dry, wholely scald, can put in storage after the packing.
2. the processing technology of hemp as claimed in claim 1 and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater is characterized in that, hemp accounts for 55wt% in the described scribbled, and combing cotton fibre accounts for 45wt%, and the line density of described hemp and combing cotton fibre is 18.5 Tekes.
3. the processing technology of hemp as claimed in claim 1 and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater is characterized in that, described cake wax is the hollow type cylindrical structure, and the diameter of described cake wax is 45mm, and the quality of described cake wax is 35 grams, and the cake wax after using is no less than 15 grams.
4. the processing technology of hemp as claimed in claim 1 and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater is characterized in that, the density of described adjustment braider is that braider is adjusted to the density that is made into sweater for horizontal close: 88 stringers/10cm; Vertical close: 72 lines/10cm.
5. the processing technology of hemp as claimed in claim 1 and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater is characterized in that, described grammes per square metre of knitting sheet is: 120 grams/square metre.
6. the processing technology of hemp as claimed in claim 1 and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater is characterized in that, described scribbled is weaved with open-end spinning frame, or weaves with the friction spun yarn system.
7. the processing technology of hemp as claimed in claim 1 and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater is characterized in that, described soft finish is that hydrophilic silicon oil is added to the water, and the concentration of hydrophilic silicon oil is adjusted to about 2%.
8. the processing technology of hemp as claimed in claim 1 and cotton acrylic-wool blended sweater, it is characterized in that, 11.22 lis of ox/Tekes of the average fracture strength of described scribbled, average elongation at break 4.1%, 273.57 Ns/Tekes of initial modulus, 19.44 lis of ox/Tekes of hook knotting strength, hook knot elongation at break 3.515%, average number of twists 832.3 sth. made by twisting/m, twist factor 138.7.
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| CN 201110048943 CN102119787A (en) | 2011-03-02 | 2011-03-02 | Working process of hemp and wool blended sweater |
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| CN104473340A (en) * | 2014-11-27 | 2015-04-01 | 常熟市碧溪新区欣澜毛衫厂 | Making method of novel blended knitted sweater |
| CN106319741A (en) * | 2015-06-15 | 2017-01-11 | 张家港市宏盛贸易有限公司 | Production method of knitwear |
| CN108914593A (en) * | 2018-07-27 | 2018-11-30 | 浙江同辉纺织股份有限公司 | A kind of processing technology of cool fabric |
| CN110115399A (en) * | 2019-05-29 | 2019-08-13 | 绍兴发靓内衣有限公司 | A kind of brassiere processing technology |
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Cited By (4)
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| CN104473340A (en) * | 2014-11-27 | 2015-04-01 | 常熟市碧溪新区欣澜毛衫厂 | Making method of novel blended knitted sweater |
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| CN108914593A (en) * | 2018-07-27 | 2018-11-30 | 浙江同辉纺织股份有限公司 | A kind of processing technology of cool fabric |
| CN110115399A (en) * | 2019-05-29 | 2019-08-13 | 绍兴发靓内衣有限公司 | A kind of brassiere processing technology |
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Application publication date: 20110713 |