CN101903580B - 纱、高耐磨性织物和从其制造的制品及用途 - Google Patents

纱、高耐磨性织物和从其制造的制品及用途 Download PDF

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CN101903580B
CN101903580B CN200880121452.8A CN200880121452A CN101903580B CN 101903580 B CN101903580 B CN 101903580B CN 200880121452 A CN200880121452 A CN 200880121452A CN 101903580 B CN101903580 B CN 101903580B
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fabric
nylon
yarn
fibre
staple
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CN101903580A (zh
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M·克尔诺贾-科西克
J·M·泰勒
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Lenzing AG
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    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
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    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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    • D03—WEAVING
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    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/573—Tensile strength
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    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
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    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
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Abstract

本发明涉及含有尼龙短纤维和高韧性人造纤维素短纤维的纱和织物，和从它们制造的衣服，并且特别涉及在保持高舒适感的同时具有高耐磨性的织物。

Description

纱、高耐磨性织物和从其制造的制品及用途
本发明涉及含有尼龙短纤维和高韧性人造纤维素短纤维的纱和织物，和从它们制造的制品如衣服、床上用品或室内装饰材料，并且特别涉及在保持高舒适感的同时具有高耐磨性的织物。 
某些形式的工作服，包括在高磨损条件下使用的那些，已经发现非常迅速地磨损。这对于预计用于沙质的条件下的工作服尤其是如此。众所周知的是，纤维素纤维如棉纱、粘胶人造丝或莱赛尔(lyocell)能够制成具有高水平的舒适感的衣服。这是因为该衣服吸收水分和具有冷的舒适触感。然而纤维素纯衣服不具有超高水平的耐磨性。 
在织物和衣服中的耐磨性是通过Martindale试验中测量的并且在本专利申请中给出直至2根线(thread)断裂为止时的摩擦次数。这是标准纤维品试验，它的详细情况已描述在ASTM D4966-98中和在ISO12947中。 
50％/50％棉纱/聚酯织物具有良好的舒适水平，但是具有20,000-50,000次摩擦的耐磨性，这例如取决于织物结构，重量，等等。但是，甚至这不能胜任极端要求的条件如沙漠。也已知的是，含棉的织物的耐磨性能够通过生产棉/尼龙织物来提高。由美国军队用于沙漠伪装制服的织物是具有大于80,000次摩擦的Martindale耐磨性的50％/50％棉/尼龙织物，已知为NyCo。 
另外织物需要具有足够的撕裂强度。撕裂强度是在特定的条件下开始或继续撕裂所需要的力。撕裂强度试验的细节已描述在ASTMD-2261，ASTM D-2262和BS EN ISO 13937中。 
该规格是由所需的特性设定的。例如对于根据U.K.技术规格的2x1斜纹织物聚酯/棉战斗服，在经纱中28N和在纬纱中20N的撕裂强度是所要求的。所谓的防破裂(ripstop)织物能够具有不同的要求，例如25N经纱和60N纬纱。 
莱赛尔是，在没有从纤维素在水性有机化合物(通常N-甲基吗啉-N-氧化物(NMMO))中的溶液形成衍生物的情况下，所生产的人造纤维素纤维的一般名称。莱赛尔具有比常规粘胶纤维高得多的韧性。尽管处于调理的状态下的莱赛尔通常显示出约37cN/tex的断裂韧性，但是在相同 条件下常规粘胶纤维显示出低于25cN/tex的断裂韧性，但强烈地取决于各自生产工艺。 
相比之下，尼龙-6.6显示出约56cN/tex的断裂韧性和棉纱显示出约25cN/tex的断裂韧性。 
除由美国军队使用的棉纱和尼龙织物，某些尼龙/莱赛尔织物已经在实验规模上生产。这些尼龙/莱赛尔织物是通过将莱赛尔纬纱编织到连续长丝尼龙经纱中来生产的。虽然莱赛尔是作为短纤维生产的，并且纺丝成纱以使得它被机织或针织形成衣服，但对于尼龙而言情况不是这样的。大量的尼龙是作为连续长丝材料制备的，它被制成经纱。经纱有效地是一组的纱线(thread)，它们被绕在绕线筒上并且在织造开始之前被放置在织布机上。该纬纱常常通过使用梭子前后穿过该经纱。在织造开始之前经纱需要构造(made up)并且连续尼龙长丝的经纱是可获得的。该实验织物是通过将莱赛尔纱线作为纬纱编织穿过该连续长丝尼龙经纱而制造的。此类织物还没有在任何规模上为工业所使用，并且纯粹作为实验产品制造。尼龙短纤维，即在挤出和纺丝成纱之后切成规定长度的纤维，从未用于本应用中。 
除莱赛尔之外的另一种人造纤维素纤维是莫代尔(Modal)，它是通过改进的粘胶纤维方法生产的。莫代尔同样是高韧性人造纤维素纤维，因为在调理的状态下它显示出约35cN/tex的断裂韧性。根据BISFA的定义，莫代尔纤维是具有高断裂力和高湿模量的纤维素纤维。在调理的状态下莫代尔纤维的断裂力(Bc)是Bc(cN)≥1，3√T+2T。在莫代尔纤维的湿状态下产生5％的伸长率所需要的力(Bm)是Bm(cN)≥0，5*√T。T是单位为分特(decitex)的平均线密度。 
莱赛尔纤维和莫代尔纤维的混合物是市场上已知的，但是迄今它们没有大量销售。 
本发明的目的是提供织物，该织物在从该织物制造的衣服的穿戴者的舒适感与良好的耐磨性和抗撕裂性之间有良好的平衡。获得良好水平的舒适感或耐磨性和耐撕裂性是容易做到的事情。然而，更加难的是在织物中获得两者，因为为了良好的舒适感所要求的织物性能和为了良好的耐磨性和耐撕裂性所要求的织物性能常常是互相排斥的。 
再一个优选的目的是生产织物，它能够均匀地染色，特别用通常用于染色军服的染料来染色，其中此类染料具有红外线(IR)反射特性，该 特性能够与应用于军服的伪装材料的性质相适应。 
已知的FR整理剂通常显著地降低含有纤维素纤维的织物的机械性能。因此仍然再一个优选的目的是生产织物，它能够用阻燃(“FR”)整理剂例如 处理，但不会损失太多的强度和耐磨性。 
本发明的附加目的是提供纱，该纱能够用于生产具有上述性能的织物。 
至于本发明，提供由尼龙短纤维和高韧性人造纤维素短纤维的均匀混合物形成的纱以及含有该纱的织物。优选该高韧性人造纤维素短纤维显示出大于32cN/tex的在调理状态下的断裂韧性。 
该纱可以含有10-75％尼龙和该织物可以含有10％到50％尼龙。优选在各情况下的平衡是高韧性人造纤维素纤维，但是在任何情况下从该纱制造的织物必须含有至少50％的高韧性人造纤维素纤维。 
在这里使用的术语尼龙是指已知为聚酰胺得到一组塑料。尼龙以酰胺基(CONH)为特征并且包括多种的材料类型，例如尼龙4，6；尼龙6；尼龙6，6；尼龙12；尼龙6，12。全部都是合适的，但是尼龙6和尼龙6，6是优选的。 
进一步优选，该尼龙和高韧性人造纤维素纤维两者都具有相同或非常相似的平均线密度(“titre”)，按分特(dtex)计。例如1.7分特或1.4分特的莱赛尔纤维能够与1.7或2.0分特的尼龙纤维共混。一般，类似的平均线性密度是指在两种纤维之间有不超过50％的差异。 
该尼龙和高韧性人造纤维素纤维的短纤维长度也是相同的或非常类似的。例如38mm莱赛尔短纤维能够与35-40mm尼龙短纤维，更优选与38mm尼龙短纤维共混。一般，类似的纤维长度是指在两种纤维之间有不超过15％的长度差异。 
该高韧性人造纤维素纤维优选是莱赛尔短纤维，莫代尔短纤维或它们的混合物。 
莱赛尔和莫代尔具有比包括棉纱的其它纤维素塑料更高的断裂韧性。它们还具有高的湿强度。因此对于织物的抗撕裂性的显著影响能够是可预期的。但是因为尼龙具有仍然较高的断裂韧性，本领域中技术人员将会预期：如果尼龙的量减少，则含有尼龙和高韧性人造纤维素纤维的织物的抗撕裂性将下降。因此本领域中技术人员仅仅将为了给穿戴者产生足够的舒适感引入所需要的用量的纤维素纤维。 
但是令人吃惊地发现，通过增加量的高韧性人造纤维素纤维的引入，所得织物的抗撕裂性会提高。因此，由从高韧性人造纤维素短纤维和尼龙短纤维混纺得到的纱所形成的织物具有高的拉伸强度并且同时从尼龙纤维和高韧性人造纤维素纤维获得强度。 
另外已经发现，为了获得这一方面的益处，尼龙短纤维和高韧性人造纤维素短纤维两者必须用于构造(make up)该纱。 
当高韧性人造纤维素纤维与尼龙混纺时，尼龙超过20％时没有更多优点。耐磨性，拉伸强度和撕裂强度全部非常接近地达到适合于高性能应用的水平。 
高韧性人造纤维素纤维能够是暗纤维(dull fier)，即含有消光剂例如TiO2的人造纤维素。这会带来某些优点，如在沙漠地区使用时有增强的日光防护作用。 
高韧性人造纤维素纤维可以是亮纤维，即不含有消光剂的高韧性人造纤维素纤维。 
至于本发明，还提供含有上述纱的织物。 
此外通过本发明，还提供含有由尼龙短纤维和高韧性人造纤维素短纤维的均匀混合物形成的纱的织物。根据本发明的织物可以含有10％-50％尼龙。优选该织物是机织织物并且在经纱和纬纱两者中含有该纱。 
该织物可具有100-500g/m2，优选120-300g/m2，进一步优选180-250g/m2的基重。 
该织物可以是斜纹织物和可以是2x1斜纹织物。它还可以具有另一种构造，例如平纹织物。 
优选该织物具有至少60,000次擦洗(rub)，优选至少100,000次擦洗的Martindale耐磨性，和至少20牛顿，优选至少30牛顿的抗撕裂性。 
因为根据本发明的织物主要用于军用和工作服，它们可通过几种整理剂如印刷染料、FR整理剂或IR反射整理剂来处理。根据一般的经验，这些整理剂将影响到该纤维或纱的原始性能。但是例如如果 FR整理剂被施涂到根据本发明的织物的表面上，则强度几乎保持。拉伸强度和撕裂强度都下降了约10-15％但是耐磨性仍然保持高于100,000。 
方法是基于THPC(四羟基甲基磷鎓氯化物)与脲的应用以产生预缩合物。该预缩合物被浸轧到织物上和该织物被干燥至～15％水 分含量。该织物然后在特殊的反应室中暴露于氨蒸气，随后用过氧化氢氧化。该方法是本领域中的专家熟知的。使用的化学品和说明可从Rhodia获得。 
类似的合适FR整理剂是 整理剂，它也已知适用于纤维素纤维如莫代尔纤维或莱赛尔纤维。 是耐久的含磷的整理剂，它是在浸轧-干燥-固化方法中通过N-羟甲基二甲基膦酰基丙酰胺(N-methylol dimethylphosphonopropionamide)与三羟甲蜜胺相结合和磷酸用作催化剂而产生的。使用的化学品和说明可从Huntsman获得。 
归因于预期的用途，根据本发明的纱也可用于针织品。所得针织物显示非常高的爆裂强度兼有优异的穿着舒适感。针织物的耐磨性显示出与在机织织物中对混合物比例纤维素/尼龙的相同依赖性。因为针织物的构造是更开放的，与机织织物相比，能够由Martindale试验法测量的耐磨性一般是更低的。然而对于许多应用来说需要针织构造，尤其当对于穿着舒适感和弹性的要求是高的时，但必须与某些耐久性要求相结合，例如对于团体穿着(corporate wear)来说。对于这些应用，至少25,000次擦洗的耐磨性将是足够的。 
根据本发明的织物能够用于工作服、团体服装或制服的制造。由于它们的良好耐磨性，它们也能够用于家具、办公椅或在运输车辆如小汽车、客车、列车或飞机中的座位的装饰织物的制造。在根据本发明的装饰织物上，FR整理剂也可施涂。为此目的，本领域中专家已知的非耐久性FR化学品，如硼酸与硼砂或强酸(尤其磷酸)的铵盐如磷酸二铵或氨基磺酸铵盐或溴化铵的混合物是可施涂的。根据本发明的织物的其它应用领域是医院和旅馆的床上用品的制造，尤其当工业的洗衣店用于洗衣时。 
甚至提高根据本发明的产品的积极性能的一种可能性是含有所引入的脱乙酰壳多糖的莱赛尔纤维的使用，它早已从WO 2004/007818和奥地利实用新型AT 008 388 U2中公知。这将使织物具有抗细菌功能以及增强的皮肤友好性。 
也可能的是引入了脱乙酰壳多糖的莱赛尔纤维与上述整理剂，尤其与FR整理剂如 或 的结合物。它将特别在其中织物应该具有两种理想性能的应用中发挥作用。 
本发明的又一个目的是含有如上所述的织物的衣服。此类衣服优选 是工作服，团体服装或制服，但是也能够是其它类型的衣服，对于此类衣服来说该织物的典型性能是有利的。 
本发明的另一个目的是含有该织物的室内装饰品或床上用品以及含有该室内装饰品的家具。 
本发明现在通过实施例来举例说明。这些实施例无论如何不限制本发明的范围。 
实施例1-6 
具有2.0分特的纤度和38mm切断长度的商购PA-6.6短纤维按照在表1中所述的比率与具有1.4分特的纤度和38mm切断长度的商购 短纤维混合并纺丝得到Nm 1/26(Ne 1/15)的纱。 
该纱通过织造具有249g/m2的重量和32根经纱和24根纬纱的2x1斜纹织物来进一步加工。编织的织物然后烧毛，脱浆，冲洗，干燥，在205℃下热定形，印花到符合军队的IR反射率技术规格，然后用FC拒水剂整理。这些方法是现有技术中的任何技术人员公知的。 
测量在经纱方向以及在纬纱方向上的撕裂强度并且将Martindale试验应用于每一种这样整理的织物。 
表1 
  实施例   Tencel/  Pa 6.6比率  [w/w]   纱的韧性  [cN/tex]   撕裂强度，  经纱方向  [N]   撕裂强度，  纬纱方向  [N]   Martindale  [擦洗次数]
  1   100/0   25，4   18   30   20,000
  2   90/10   24，0   25   32   65,000
  3   80/20   23，3   26   42   ＞100,000
  4   70/30   22，0   28   40   ＞100,000
  5   60/40   20，9   28   42   ＞100,000
  6   50/50   20，4   29   45   ＞100,000
能够清楚地从表1中推测，当将尼龙含量从0提高到20％时，织物的机械性能的最高改进将会出现。然后获得实际上重要的值，而且进一步增加量的尼龙将仅仅导致轻微的改进。当达到100,000次擦洗的水平 时，由于经济上的原因停止Martindale试验。 
在实施例1，3，4和5的织物上采用GATS-试验，它将得到关于汗水从穿着者身体上离开的速率的印象。所得曲线示于图1中。需要指出的趋势是，一般来说，TENCEL含量越高，水的摄取越快(曲线的斜率)，和能够保持的体积越高(曲线的高度)。该速度是关键点。 
实施例7-9： 
2x1斜纹织物是由含有根据实施例1的纤维的Tencel/PA-6.670％/30％(w/w)混合物的Ne 1/15纱制成。重量和整理剂根据表2来变化，但是该工艺步骤与在实施例1-6中的相同。 
在实施例8中，之后施涂普通的 处理。在实施例9中制造不同的织物结构，但是使用与在实施例7中相同的纱。 
表2 
  实施例   构造  [经纱/纬  纱]   织物重量  [g/m2]   撕裂强  度，  经纱方向  [N]   撕裂强  度，  纬纱方向  [N]   Martindale[擦  洗次数]   说明
  7   39/22   205   35   27   ＞100,000  
  8   39/22   205   27   21   ＞100,000   Proban FR整理  剂
  9   30/20   179   36   31   ＞100,000   更轻的重量
能够看出，根据本发明的全部三种织物都符合28cN(经纱)，20cN(纬纱)和45,000Martindale擦洗次数的英国军用规格。实施例8的织物也通过了EN 532的阻燃性试验。 
实施例10： 
具有30根经纱/22根纬纱和180g/m2的重量的2x1防破裂(ripstop)斜纹织物是从实施例4的70/30纱制造的，但是，其中350f/136尼龙丝防破裂缝口线作为每一个第九纬纱。表3显示了与对于防破裂织物的英国军用规格的比较。 
表3 
  实施例   撕裂强度，  经纱方向  [N]   撕裂强度，  纬纱方向  [N]   Martindale[擦  洗次数]   透气性  [l/m2s]
  规格   25   60   30,000   200
  10   39   ＞50  不能撕裂   ＞100,000   415
实施例11至13： 
通过使用环锭纱Nm50/1来针织单面针织物(single jersey)，其含有具有表4中所列的各种组成的、与在实施例2-6中所用的相同的纤维。针织的织物用通常的反应活性染料染色。 
表4 
  实施例   Tencel/Pa 6.6比率[w/w]   Martindale[擦洗次数]
  11   100/0   13,000
  12   95/5   18,000
  13   90/10   28,500
在机织织物中同样地，观察到通过添加少量的尼龙所导致的耐磨性的强烈增加。 
实施例14： 
与实施例3中同样地制造纱，但是使用1.4分特的含脱乙酰壳多糖的莱赛尔纤维(Lenzing AG的“Tencel C”，在纤维中含有0.5％(w/w)脱乙酰壳多糖)代替常规Tencel纤维。Tencel C：PA 6.6的比率是80％/20％(w/w)。该纱被加工成具有203g/m2的重量的2x1斜纹织物。测量的性能列于表5中。 
实施例15： 
与实施例3中同样地制造纱，但是使用由Lenzing AG生产的1，4分特的莫代尔纤维代替Tencel纤维。莫代尔：PA 6.6比率是80％/20％ (w/w)。该纱被加工成具有212g/m2的重量的2x1斜纹织物。测量的性能列于表5中。 
表5 
  实施例   撕裂强度，  经纱方向  [N]   撕裂强度，  纬纱方向  [N]  Martindale[擦 洗次数]   透气性  [1/m2s]
  14   45   45   84.000   326
  15   39   30   75.000   352

Claims (21)

1.由10-30％尼龙短纤维和70-90％高韧性人造纤维素短纤维的均匀混合物形成的纱，其中高韧性人造纤维素短纤维显示出大于32cN/tex的在调理状态下的断裂韧性。
2.根据权利要求1的纱，其中该尼龙和纤维素纤维的短纤维长度是相同的或非常类似的，其中类似的纤维长度是指在两种纤维之间有不超过15％的长度差异。
3.根据权利要求1的纱，其中纤维素短纤维是莱赛尔纤维的短纤维，莫代尔短纤维或它们的混合物。
4.根据权利要求1的纱，其中尼龙短纤维的尼龙材料选自尼龙-4，6，尼龙-6，尼龙-6，6，尼龙-12和尼龙-6，12。
5.根据权利要求1的纱，其中尼龙短纤维的尼龙材料是尼龙-6或尼龙-6，6。
6.根据前述权利要求中一项的纱用于制造织物的用途。
7.含有用10-30％尼龙短纤维和70-90％高韧性人造纤维素短纤维构造的纱的织物，其中高韧性人造纤维素短纤维显示出大于32cN/tex的在调理状态下的断裂韧性。
8.含有根据权利要求1-5中一项的纱的织物。
9.根据权利要求8的织物，其中织物是在经纱和纬纱中都含有该纱的机织织物。
10.根据权利要求7-9中一项的织物，具有至少60,000次擦洗的Martindale耐磨性。
11.根据权利要求7-9中一项的织物，具有至少20牛顿的抗撕裂性。
12.根据权利要求7-9中一项的织物，其中织物具有100-500g/m2的基重。
13.根据权利要求7或8的织物，其中织物是针织物。
14.根据权利要求13的织物，具有至少25,000次擦洗的Martindale耐磨性。
15.根据权利要求7-9中一项的织物，含有FR整理剂。
16.根据权利要求7-15中一项的织物用于制造工作服、团体服装或制服的用途。
17.根据权利要求7-15中一项的织物用于制造家具、办公椅或在小汽车、列车或飞机中座位的装饰织物的用途。
18.根据权利要求7-15中一项的织物用于制造医院和旅馆的床上用品的用途。
19.含有根据权利要求7-15中一项的织物的衣服。
20.含有根据权利要求7-15中一项的织物的床上用品。
21.含有装饰品的家具、办公椅或在运输车辆中的座位，它们含有根据权利要求7-15中一项的织物作为装饰织物。
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AT506241A1 (de) 2009-07-15
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