CN101532203A - Jutecell underwear fabric and manufacture method thereof - Google Patents
Jutecell underwear fabric and manufacture method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN101532203A CN101532203A CN200910049095A CN200910049095A CN101532203A CN 101532203 A CN101532203 A CN 101532203A CN 200910049095 A CN200910049095 A CN 200910049095A CN 200910049095 A CN200910049095 A CN 200910049095A CN 101532203 A CN101532203 A CN 101532203A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- fiber
- jutecell
- underwear fabric
- fabric
- underwear
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 55
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 17
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 109
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims description 28
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims description 24
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 abstract description 7
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial Effects 0.000 abstract description 6
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 abstract description 6
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 abstract description 6
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
- 210000004177 Elastic Tissue Anatomy 0.000 abstract 3
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 abstract 3
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 abstract 3
- 208000003251 Pruritus Diseases 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000000843 anti-fungal Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 7
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 7
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000000996 additive Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000009432 framing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000005554 pickling Methods 0.000 description 3
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 2
- 238000009954 braiding Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 2
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium carbonate Chemical compound 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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- PMZURENOXWZQFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L na2so4 Chemical compound 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Abstract
The invention discloses a Jutecell underwear fabric and a manufacture method thereof, belonging to the technical field of textiles. The Jutecell underwear fabric is characterized by comprising the following components based on part by weight: 50 to 70 parts of Jutecell, 10 to 20 parts of Modal, 10 to 20 parts of Newdal, and 5 to 10 parts of polyurethane elastic fibers. The manufacture method comprises the following steps that: the Jutecell, the Modal and the Newdal are spun into compact spinning blended yarns; the compact spinning blended yarns are interwoven with the polyurethane elastic fibers to form a knitted underwear fabric; and the knitted underwear fabric is subjected to preshaping, dyeing, drying and shaping treatment. The fabric not only has good skin-friendly property, low pilling tendency and comfortable elasticity, but also sufficiently reflects itching feel, bactericidal and antifungal activity, moisture absorption and fast dryness; and Modal has soft hand feeling, bright color, the Newdal is smooth and has good drapability, and the polyurethane elastic fiber has excellent performance of stretching and extending. The fabric adopts a unique textile structure to lead the appearance of the fabric to be more unique.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of Jutecell underwear fabric and production method thereof, belong to textile technology field.
Background technology
Along with making constant progress of science and technology, increasing functional raw material progressively is applied to the production of underwear fabric; While is along with the progressively raising of living standards of the people, people also have higher requirement to underwear fabric itself, not only require durable, good skin-friendly and comfortable flexibility, and require underwear fabric to have health care such as hydroscopic fast-drying, antibacterial fungicidal properties effect preferably under the prerequisite of frivolous body shaping possessing.
At present, the numb Sai Er fiber that Shandong Hailong Co., Ltd. produces be a kind of novel, healthy, fashion, environmental protection, can general breathing the ecological spinning fiber, the method for its production is: the natural plant fibre jute is handled and a kind of tencel cellulose fiber of making.This fiber adopts special process production, except that keeping characteristics such as the original antibacterial mildew-resistant of natural flax fibre, hydroscopic fast-drying, also has unique " C " type hollow sectional shape structure, fast by the underwear fabric rate of moisture absorption that this fiber is made, it is also fast to lead wet speed, so lining has dry and comfortable preferably effect; The feel of lining is smooth simultaneously, color and luster is beautiful.
Conventional underwear fabric does not generally possess the effect of antibacterial mildew-resistant, hydroscopic fast-drying.The conventional spinning method of producing the used yarn of underwear is a RING SPINNING, and its shortcoming is that the filoplume of yarn is more, and single thread force is relatively poor relatively, and yarn unevenness is relatively poor.Conventional underwear fabric is from the fabric structure of lining, and spandex single jersey (plaiting liner tissue) is applied comparatively at large, but the lining outward appearance of this fabric structure does not have characteristic.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of not only have skin-friendly, low pilling tendency and comfortable flexibility preferably, have the Jutecell underwear fabric and the production method thereof of hydroscopic fast-drying, antibacterial antimildew function preferably simultaneously.
For realizing above purpose, technical scheme of the present invention provides a kind of Jutecell underwear fabric, it is characterized in that, form: numb Sai Er fiber 50-70, Modal fibre 10-20, Niu Daier fiber 10-20 and elastic spandex fiber 5-10 by following raw material in weight portion.
The fiber number of described numb Sai Er fiber is 1.0-1.8dtex, and length is 30-45mm.
The fiber number of described Modal fibre is 1.0-1.8dtex, and length is 30-45mm.
The fiber number of described Niu Daier fiber is 1.0-1.8dtex, and length is 30-45mm.
The fiber number of described elastic spandex fiber is 22dtex-44dtex.
The present invention also provides the production method of above-mentioned Jutecell underwear fabric, it is characterized in that, concrete steps are:
The first step: numb Sai Er fiber, Modal fibre and Niu Daier fiber spinning are become the compact spinning line, and yarn count props up for 32-60 English, and the twist factor of spinning is 360-400;
Second step: compact spinning line and elastic spandex fiber that the first step is obtained adopt weft knitting circle latitude knitting machine to be made into Jutecell underwear fabric, wherein, the plane No. of loom is 22G-36G, the loop length of compact spinning line is the 24-35cm/100 pin, and the loop length of elastic spandex fiber is the 8-11cm/100 pin;
The 3rd step: the second step gained Jutecell underwear fabric is carried out pre-setting, dyeing, oven dry and typing successively.
Described weft knitting circle latitude knitting machine is a single-side machine, and the knitting underwear fabric that goes out is the single knitting lining.
Principle of the present invention is:
(1) the present invention optimizes numb Sai Er fiber, Modal fibre and regenerated celulose fibre (Niu Daier fiber) proportioning components, the superior wearability of reorganization stack three; Creatively the integrated use spinning method, improve yarn twist, unique weaving process and special technology such as soft additive processing, produce the underwear fabric of the new demand that satisfies people.
(2) owing to need to embody feel and the functional characteristic that numb Sai Er fabric lining is similar to the pitted skin material, the ratio of numb Sai Er fiber can not be lower than 50% in the lining; Consider the snugness of fit and the cost of lining simultaneously, so in the composition of blended yarn, add the Lenzin Modal fibre and the regenerated celulose fibre (Niu Daier fiber) of proper proportion.
(3) to select the purpose of compact spinning for use be that the brute force of considering numb Sai Er fiber is particularly wet relatively low by force in the present invention, by improving the twist of blended yarn, strengthen the brute force of yarn to greatest extent, greatly reduce the filoplume of yarn, therefore and brighter and cleaner yarn, reduce the balling-up of lining as much as possible, yarn unevenness also is greatly improved, and also helps to embody simultaneously the feel that numb Sai Er fabric lining is similar to the pitted skin material.
(4) the present invention selects woven technology for use, its objective is to realize that the lining outward appearance has the effect of stealthy perpendicular stria, gives the lining comfortable flexibility simultaneously.
(5) the present invention selects the technology of soft treatment for use, its objective is the style and the feel that further promote numb Sai Er fiber, Lenzin Modal fibre and Niu Daier fiber from the angle of dyeing and finishing.
Advantage of the present invention is that this Jutecell underwear fabric not only has skin-friendly, low pilling tendency and comfortable flexibility preferably, demonstrate fully the picotement of numb Sai Er fiber, antibacterial mildew-resistant, hydroscopic fast-drying, soft feel, the color and luster of Lenzin Modal fibre are beautiful, the Niu Daier fiber smooth, drapability good, the excellence of spandex fibre elongation tensile property.Lining adopts unique fabric construction, and appearance style has more uniqueness.
The specific embodiment
The invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiment.
Embodiment 1
A kind of Jutecell underwear fabric is characterized in that, is made up of following raw material in weight portion: numb Sai Er fiber 70, Modal fibre 10, Niu Daier fiber 13 and elastic spandex fiber 7.
Fiber crops Sai Er fiber is that Shandong Hailong Co., Ltd. produces, and fiber number is 1.67dtex, and length is 38mm; Modal fibre is that Austrian Lenzin company produces, and fiber number is 1.33dtex, and length is 38mm; The Niu Daier fiber is that Shandong Hailong Co., Ltd. produces, and fiber number is 1.33dtex, and length is 38mm; Elastic spandex fiber adopts former du pont company now to be the Elaspan elastomer of English Radar Audio Company, and fiber number is 33dtex.
The production method of above-mentioned Jutecell underwear fabric, concrete steps are:
The first step: numb Sai Er fiber, Modal fibre and Niu Daier fiber spinning are become the compact spinning line, and yarn count is that 40 English prop up, and the twist factor of spinning is 380;
Second step: the single-side machine that adopts German De Le company to produce tight spinning mixed yarn line and elastic spandex fiber is made into Jutecell underwear fabric, and its technological parameter is as follows:
A, fabric structure: elastic force vertical bar single jersey;
B, loom specification: model S296, barrel dliameter 30 ", plane No. 28G, way 96F, total needle amount 2640N;
C, knitting needle are arranged: AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAB
Be 1 piece of B pin of knitting needle 29 pieces of A pins of row, spending wide is 30 pins;
D, triangle arrangement:
I.e. the 1 road A pin and the whole lopping of B pin, the 2 road A pin lopping B pin tuck;
E, yarn arrays: every Lu Junyong 40
sTight spinning mixed yarn and 30D elastic spandex fiber (Elaspan);
F, loop length: 40
sTight spinning mixed yarn: 30.5cm/100 pin;
30D elastic spandex fiber (Elaspan): 10cm/100 pin;
G, yarn tension: 40
sTight spinning mixed yarn 3-5cN, elastic spandex fiber (Elaspan) 5-7cN;
H, blank grammes per square metre: 195g/m
2The blank door width of cloth: 160cm (after the open-width)
I, key Quality Control:
The levelness of a, syringe and deviation from circular from all are not more than 0.05mm;
B, adjust the pad yarn angle that yarn is advanced on every road, the spandex silk is with the mode yarn feeding of guide truckle, and the pad yarn cross level angle of spandex silk and vertical angle guarantee that all greater than closely the pad yarn cross level angle and the vertical angle of spinning mixed yarn cloth cover does not turn over silk;
Pressure and batching tension force between c, batching rod are as far as possible little, exceed to guarantee ordinary production; The slide block of selvedge need be removed, and grey cloth adopts the folding pendulum mode for cloth not want clot on board, in order to avoid producing impression;
Open-width perching in time and clot behind the machine under d, the blank, whole process tension force is little, avoids simultaneously producing and colludes silk;
E, in the braiding process, carry out sanitation and hygiene, avoid flyings to inweave the formation fault.
The 3rd step: said fabric is adopted method well known in the art, process pre-setting, dyeing, oven dry and typing (adding the hydrophily soft additive during typing) operation production:
The fabric that A. will need pre-setting to handle, carry out pre-setting through framing shaping machine and handle:
Presetting technology: 195 ℃ of temperature, 16 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle, last overfeeding+30%, following overfeeding+8%, bristle brush wheel 8;
The model of said framing shaping machine is M5469-CY300X8J1, and Shaoyang Textile Machinery Co., Ltd produces.
Predetermined back specification: grammes per square metre 200g/m
2, effective gate width of cloth 162cm.
B. dyeing:, in the water-bath that contains dyestuff and colouring auxiliary agent, dye according to following steps with the fabric behind the pre-setting:
60 ℃ were dyeed pickling 60 ℃/20 minutes, soap 95 ℃/20 minutes (2 times), pickling 60 ℃/20 minutes, fixation 60 ℃/20 minutes 60 minutes;
Change the material method: dyestuff is sized mixing with warm water, and 60～65 ℃ of water impulsive motions fully stir.
Dyestuff is the normal temperature REACTIVE DYES, and is red as BE-3BF, BF-3R is yellow or BF-RRN (orchid), and Yongguang Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., Taiwan produces, bath raio 1: 12;
The colouring auxiliary agent is a benchmark with the weight of water-bath, comprises glauber salt 7.0% and levelling agent PROTE-GAL DP505 1.0%;
Levelling agent PROTE-GAL DP505 is the alkylamide compound, and the health sino-america joint-venture chemicals Co., Ltd of pausing produces;
In the above-mentioned steps, the acid that pickling is used is glacial acetic acid, and concentration is 0.5%, is benchmark with the weight of water-bath, the usefulness of soaping be soda ash, concentration is 1.8%, is benchmark with the weight of water-bath;
Fixation adopts formaldehyde-free color fixing agent PROTEX-FIX GRF, and concentration is 1.5wt%.
C. oven dry: the lining after will dyeing, dry processing through tower drier:
Process conditions: steam pressure 2kg, 30 minutes time;
The model of said tower drier is H-8-6T, adopts Qingdao spring to send out the product of machinery plant;
D. typing: the lining after will drying, finalize the design (adding the hydrophily soft additive during typing) through framing shaping machine:
Process conditions: 170 ℃ of temperature, pH value 5.5,15 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle, last overfeeding+28%, following overfeeding+8%, said hydrophilic soft additive ZK38D is the quaternary ammonium salt compound, adopts the pause product of sino-america joint-venture chemicals Co., Ltd of health;
The model of framing shaping machine is M5469-CY300X8J1, and Shaoyang Textile Machinery Co., Ltd produces.
Trimmed size: grammes per square metre 190g/m
2, effective gate width of cloth 160cm.
Embodiment 2
Be similar to the Jutecell underwear fabric of embodiment 1, difference is: be made up of following raw material in weight portion: numb Sai Er fiber 50, Modal fibre 20, Niu Daier fiber 20 and elastic spandex fiber 10.The fiber number of described numb Sai Er fiber is 1.0dtex, and length is 30mm.The fiber number of described Modal fibre is 1.0dtex, and length is 30mm.The fiber number of described Niu Daier fiber is 1.0dtex, and length is 30mm.The fiber number of described elastic spandex fiber is 44dtex.
Be similar to the production method of the Jutecell underwear fabric of embodiment 1, difference is:
In the first step numb Sai Er fiber, Modal fibre and Niu Daier fiber spinning are become the compact spinning line, yarn count is that 32 English prop up, and the twist factor of spinning is 360;
The plane No. of loom is 22G in second step, and the loop length of compact spinning line is the 35cm/100 pin, and the loop length of elastic spandex fiber is the 11cm/100 pin.
Embodiment 3
Be similar to the Jutecell underwear fabric of embodiment 1, difference is: be made up of following raw material in weight portion: numb Sai Er fiber 65, Modal fibre 20, Niu Daier fiber 10 and elastic spandex fiber 5.The fiber number of described numb Sai Er fiber is 1.8dtex, and length is 45mm.The fiber number of described Modal fibre is 1.8dtex, and length is 45mm.The fiber number of described Niu Daier fiber is 1.8dtex, and length is 45mm.The fiber number of described elastic spandex fiber is 22dtex.
Be similar to the production method of the Jutecell underwear fabric of embodiment 1, difference is:
In the first step numb Sai Er fiber, Modal fibre and Niu Daier fiber spinning are become the compact spinning line, yarn count is that 60 English prop up, and the twist factor of spinning is 400;
The plane No. of loom is 36G in second step, and the loop length of compact spinning line is the 24cm/100 pin, and the loop length of elastic spandex fiber is the 8cm/100 pin.
Adopt FZ/T73024-2006 chemical fibre knitted underwear standard Grade A and the national textile product basic security of GB18401-2003 (category-B) technical specification to detect through " national knit product quality supervision and test center " product among the embodiment 1-3, the key technical indexes detection case is as follows:
Claims (7)
1, a kind of Jutecell underwear fabric is characterized in that, is made up of following raw material in weight portion: numb Sai Er fiber 50-70, Modal fibre 10-20, Niu Daier fiber 10-20 and elastic spandex fiber 5-10.
2, a kind of Jutecell underwear fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the fiber number of described numb Sai Er fiber is 1.0-1.8dtex, and length is 30-45mm.
3, a kind of Jutecell underwear fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the fiber number of described Modal fibre is 1.0-1.8dtex, and length is 30-45mm.
4, a kind of Jutecell underwear fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the fiber number of described Niu Daier fiber is 1.0-1.8dtex, and length is 30-45mm.
5, a kind of Jutecell underwear fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the fiber number of described elastic spandex fiber is 22dtex-44dtex.
6, the production method of the described Jutecell underwear fabric of claim 1 is characterized in that, concrete steps are:
The first step: numb Sai Er fiber, Modal fibre and Niu Daier fiber spinning are become the compact spinning line, and yarn count props up for 32-60 English, and the twist factor of spinning is 360-400;
Second step: compact spinning line and elastic spandex fiber that the first step is obtained adopt weft knitting circle latitude knitting machine to be made into Jutecell underwear fabric, wherein, the plane No. of loom is 22G-36G, the loop length of compact spinning line is the 24-35cm/100 pin, and the loop length of elastic spandex fiber is the 8-11cm/100 pin;
The 3rd step: the second step gained Jutecell underwear fabric is carried out pre-setting, dyeing, oven dry and typing successively.
7, production method as claimed in claim 6 is characterized in that, described weft knitting circle latitude knitting machine is a single-side machine, and the knitting underwear fabric that goes out is the single knitting lining.
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| CN200910049095A CN101532203A (en) | 2009-04-10 | 2009-04-10 | Jutecell underwear fabric and manufacture method thereof |
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| CN103061023A (en) * | 2011-10-21 | 2013-04-24 | 江苏白玉兰纺织印染有限公司 | Modal spandex knitted undershirt cloth |
| CN103361866B (en) * | 2012-04-10 | 2016-06-29 | 上海帕兰朵纺织科技发展有限公司 | A kind of fiber crops knitting fabric of Sai Er coffee carbon fiber and preparation method thereof |
| CN103361866A (en) * | 2012-04-10 | 2013-10-23 | 上海帕兰朵高级服饰有限公司 | Jutecell and coffee carbon fiber knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN102634919A (en) * | 2012-04-27 | 2012-08-15 | 江阴芗菲服饰有限公司 | Weaving method of jutecell/modal siro spinning functional fabric |
| CN102864562A (en) * | 2012-07-20 | 2013-01-09 | 上海嘉乐股份有限公司 | Textile surface finish degree control method, neutral twist needle textile finish surface control plus material and processing method of plus material |
| CN102864562B (en) * | 2012-07-20 | 2014-03-05 | 上海嘉乐股份有限公司 | Textile surface finish degree control method, neutral twist needle textile finish surface control plus material and processing method of plus material |
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