CN105155094B - Preparation method of ramie wool elastic fabric - Google Patents
Preparation method of ramie wool elastic fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN105155094B CN105155094B CN201510608238.7A CN201510608238A CN105155094B CN 105155094 B CN105155094 B CN 105155094B CN 201510608238 A CN201510608238 A CN 201510608238A CN 105155094 B CN105155094 B CN 105155094B
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 47
- 240000008564 Boehmeria nivea Species 0.000 title claims abstract description 33
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 13
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 13
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 abstract description 3
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 abstract 2
- 235000017166 Bambusa arundinacea Nutrition 0.000 abstract 1
- 235000017491 Bambusa tulda Nutrition 0.000 abstract 1
- 241001330002 Bambuseae Species 0.000 abstract 1
- 235000015334 Phyllostachys viridis Nutrition 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000011425 bamboo Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000009916 joint effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000009999 singeing Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000009966 trimming Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 12
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 5
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 3
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 2
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000004075 alteration Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000004888 barrier function Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000009963 fulling Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000004900 laundering Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000010792 warming Methods 0.000 description 2
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005260 corrosion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010026 decatizing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000010855 food raising agent Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003908 quality control method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a preparation method of ramie wool elastic fabric, which comprises the following preparation steps: 1) warp yarn: adopting spinning, wherein the yarn count is Nm 50/2-60/2; weft yarn: spinning with yarn counts Ne 50/2 and 32/1+ spandex; weaving the warp yarns and the weft yarns by adopting 2/2 tissues and 100-105 total tightness to obtain gray fabric; 2) and (3) after finishing: grey cloth shaping → singeing → continuous boiling → washing shrinkage → double boiling → drying → middle checking → ripe trimming → brush hair → napping → washing → drying → shaping → shearing → softening → can steaming to obtain the finished product. White ramie is added into the last gill comb of the re-combing, and the bamboo joint effect of the finished cloth cover is achieved by utilizing the characteristic that ramie stripes are not easy to be uniformly mixed; the spinning section only passes through the last path of needle comb and one path of roving; the size stability of the fabric is improved by adopting a water washing process in the after-finishing; the napping process enables the cloth surface to have slight fluff, increases the warm feeling and the softness of the fabric, finally enables the product to have the advantages of easy washing, good elasticity, no fluffing and pilling and the like, and is completely suitable for manufacturing high-grade casual suit fabric.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation method of fabric, a kind of preparation method of ramie hair elastic fabric, belong to weaving neck
Domain.
Background technology
The continuous improvement that progress with textile science technology and the mankind require to properties of textile, people are to garment material
Feel and visual effect put forward higher requirement.
Ramie is the distinctive hemp resource of China, is referred to as " China's grass ", China is main ramie producing country in the world,
Ramie yield accounts for Gross World Product more than 90%.Ramee belongs to natural green ecological fiber, has moisture absorption, ventilative, heat conduction
Hurry up, dissipate wet fast, antibacterial, anti-mite, the mould proof, premium properties such as uvioresistant, electrostatic, can with its unique natural function and biology
Degradability attracts attention, its Fabric Style rude and natural, environmental protection, is one of preferable raw material of garment material,
Containing ramie fabric, there is cooling feeling and slim and graceful sense, the antibacterial characteristic such as anti-corrosion.
Due to ramie fiber count low (1400nm～1800nm), fiber is thick and stiff, and Young's modulus is big, single fiber regularity
Difference, the restriction of the objective condition such as length variation coefficient big (distribution of lengths is in the range of 20～250mm) it is difficult to spinning high grade cotton yarn,
Conventional products are the low-and-medium-grade products such as 7.5nm～36nm ramie yarn and cloth, and because ramie product filoplume is many, elasticity is little, thorn
Gargalesthesia waits by force cause influence wearability.
In addition easily the quality problems such as color flower, aberration, color and luster be not bright-coloured in ramie, and ramee also has rigid strong and tough
Property deficiency, evenness fault, between fiber the shortcomings of cohesive force difference, there is certain difficulty in spinning process, at present spinning Maoma
Blending product is a lot, and outer appearnce, with common worsted fabric, lacks fiber crops section appearance intermittently, and poor flexibility, wearability
Bad, easily wrinkling.
Content of the invention
The technical problem to be solved is: provide a kind of have excellent antibacterial, anti-mite effect, good permeability,
Heat conduction is fast, it is wet fast to dissipate, silkiness gloss, has fiber crops section appearance intermittently simultaneously again, and excellent spring, the good ramie of anti-craping character
The preparation method of hair elastic fabric.
For solving above-mentioned technical problem, the technical solution used in the present invention is: a kind of preparation side of ramie hair elastic fabric
Method, its preparation process is:
1) warp thread: using spinning, yarn count nm 50/2～60/2；Weft yarn: using spinning, yarn count ne 50/2 and 32/1+ ammonia
Synthetic fibre；Warp thread and weft yarn are weaved to obtain fabric using the total tightness degree of 2/2 tissue, 100-105；
2) postfinishing process: fabric shapes → singes → even boil → wash contracting → bis- boil → dry → middle inspection → ripe repaiies → bristle
→ napping → washing → drying → sizing → cropping → softness → tank steams, and obtains finished product；
Softening agent, the aqueous solution of smooth agent configuration is added, both weight/mass percentage composition are all 3 during described softness
± 0.2%；
Described spinning employing wool (Australia's hair), terylene, spun silk, ramie and 40d spandex blending, by mass percentage, mix
Spin raw material to consist of: wool 48.5%～51.5%, terylene 29.3%～31.1%, spun silk 10.7%～11.3%, ramie
7.4%～7.8%, 40d spandex 1.16%～1.24%, various raw materials are learnt from other's strong points to offset one's weaknesses, and give full play to the Optimality of raw material itself
Energy.
Described spinning employing wool, terylene, spun silk, ramie and 40d spandex blending, by mass percentage, blending raw material
Preferably constitute as wool 50%, terylene 30.2%, spun silk 11%, ramie 7.6%, 40d spandex 1.2%.
Described is spinning, and during it, spinning workshop section decreases operation compared with traditional handicraft, shortens front road technique, front spinning
Six procedures, in order to ensure the irregular effect of flaxen fiber, are reduced to two procedures, only with finisher gilling+one rove, for protecting
Card yarn strength and percentage elongation workshop temperature are controlled to 20-25 DEG C, relative air humidity 75-85%；Increased the intensity of yarn
And toughness, make even tension suffered by yarn, the number of times that broken yarn produces reduces it is ensured that weaving efficiency；
Described raw material wool, terylene, spun silk, dyed after bar dye recombing mixing sliver again, in last one pin
Carded journey is proportionally added into ramie, after the completion of preceding working procedure, adds 40d spandex, the final effect bullet obtaining ring on spun yarn
Power yarn.
Napping → washing process in described Final finishing, carries out three wharf's pavement quality first to fabric reverse side, then right
Fabric front carries out a wharf's pavement quality, and Maoma product only does light face substantially, and matte is not easy to do, and after napping, slight matte can increase
Plus the abundant degree of fabric, increase the soft feel of fabric after washing, also can increase the wrinkle resistance of fabric simultaneously.In addition, passing through
Take into account the characteristic of fiber crops and spandex, reduce balling-up, make cloth cover have warming sense, the out-of-flatness (folding line), the spandex that also solve burlap are easy
The technical barrier of variable color: the content of fiber crops only accounts for 7% in the content of whole fabric, every physical index of fabric is affected be not
Decisive role, by the complementation of raw material, and various process meanses make face both reach the effect of fiber crops, and every physical index is again
Comply fully with the requirement of woollens.The addition of spandex simultaneously, further increases the elastic recovery function of fabric, also just allows fabric more
There is naturally crease-resistant function.Maoma stockinette and filled up on market the vacancy of numb elastic force.
Beneficial effect: ramie has difficult quality control, easily causes the quality problems such as color flower, aberration, color and luster be not bright-coloured, this
Added in last one grilling of recombing using white ramie in application technical scheme, be difficult the spy mixing using ramie stripes
Property, to reach the ring effect of finished product cloth cover；Ramee also has rigidly strong and toughness is not enough, between evenness fault, fiber
The shortcomings of cohesive force difference, spinning workshop section reduces operation, and merely through finisher gilling and one rove, workshop temperature is controlled to 20-25
DEG C, control relative air humidity 75-85%.Postfinishing process: on the one hand to improve the dimensionally stable of fabric using washing process
Property, stablize the washing shrinkage of fabric, solve the technical barrier that burlap is also easy to produce folding line simultaneously；On the other hand made using napping process
Cloth cover has slight fine hair, increases fabric warming sense and pliability, finally makes this product have uncomplicated laundering, good, phozy of elasticity
The advantage of ball etc., the high-grade leisure Western-style clothes fabric of entirely appropriate making.
Specific embodiment
With reference to embodiment, the invention will be further described, but cannot function as limitation of the present invention.
Specific embodiment
First, fabric specification design
Raw material: wool 50%, terylene 30.2%, spun silk 11%, ramie 7.6%, 40d spandex 1.2%.
Yarn count: (50/2+60/2) * 50/2+ (32/1+pu)；
Twist factor: single thread 85, plying 125；Tightness 105.2 density 297*257 root/10cm；
Institutional framework adopts 2/2 side to put down.
2nd, postfinishing process
Final finishing flow process: fabric shapes → singes → even boil → wash contracting → bis- boil → dry → middle inspection → ripe repaiies → bristle →
Napping → washing → drying → sizing → cropping → softness → tank steams, and obtains finished product；
185 DEG C of setting temperature, effective shaping time 45 seconds；Even boil 85 DEG C of 15 minutes times of temperature；Double boil 85 DEG C of water temperatures and boil 7
Time；Braying fulling once completes on Italian czmz combination machine of washing and shrinking, concrete technology: braying temperature 45 C, 40 minutes, speed
180 ms/min, 8 centimetres of fulling necking, pressure roller 1.5bar, contracting case pressure 1.0bar, 180 ms/min of speed is right before plucking operation
Fabric carries out flexible smooth processing, is easy to rear road plucking and reduces strength loss, softening agent, the consumption of smooth agent are the ratio with water
Example respectively Jia 3%, pick-up rate 60%, overfeeding 10%；Cropping reverse side is long, front using minimum gauge, to ensure that fabric has velvet, with
When can reach the anti-fluffing and anti-pilling index of 3-4 level；Tank steams on kd95, and pressure 0.6bar～0.7bar is processed 3 minutes, hot light
140 DEG C of technological temperature, pressure, 15 ms/min of speed, washing plus leavening agent wash drying in 20 minutes. cropping. decatizing.
Finally make this product have the advantages that uncomplicated laundering, good, the phozy balling-up of elasticity etc., be suitable for the slim of making top grade and stop
Not busy suiting.
Product the key technical indexes:
Yarn count: (50/2+60/2) * 50/2+ (32/1+pu)；
Grammes per square metre: 335 grams m；
Composition: wool 50%, terylene 30.2%, spun silk 11%, ramie 7.6%, 40dpu 1.2%；
Product top-quality product rate ＞ 99%.
Claims (3)
1. a kind of preparation method of ramie hair elastic fabric, its preparation process is:
1) warp thread: using spinning, yarn count nm 50/2～60/2；Weft yarn: using spinning, yarn count ne 50/2 and be added with spandex
Yarn count ne 32/1 blending；Warp thread and weft yarn are weaved to obtain fabric using the total tightness degree of 2/2 tissue, 100-105；
2) postfinishing process: fabric shapes → singes → even boil → wash contracting → bis- boil → dry → middle inspection → ripe repaiies → bristle → draw
Suede → washing → drying → sizing → cropping → softness → tank steams, and obtains finished product；
Described spinning employing wool, terylene, spun silk, ramie and 40d spandex blending, by mass percentage, the raw material group of blending
Become: wool 48.5%～51.5%, terylene 29.3%～31.1%, spun silk 10.7%～11.3%, ramie 7.4%～
7.8%th, 40d spandex 1.16%～1.24%；
Described is spinning, and the spinning process during it is: finisher gilling → one rove, and spinning process control workshop temperature is
20-25 DEG C, relative air humidity 75-85%；
Described wool, terylene and spun silk, dyed after bar dye recombing mixing sliver again, press during last one grilling
Ratio adds ramie；
Softener solution and the smooth agent aqueous solution is added during described softness, both weight/mass percentage composition are all 3 ±
0.2%.
2. a kind of ramie hair elastic fabric according to claim 1 preparation method it is characterised in that: described blending is former
Material, by mass percentage, consisting of: wool 50%, terylene 30.2%, spun silk 11%, ramie 7.6%, 40d spandex 1.2%.
3. a kind of ramie hair elastic fabric according to claim 1 and 2 preparation method it is characterised in that: rear finishing duplex
Sequence is: the napping process in described Final finishing, comprising: first fabric reverse side is carried out with three wharf's pavement quality, then to fabric just
Face carries out a wharf's pavement quality.
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| CN201510608238.7A CN105155094B (en) | 2015-09-23 | 2015-09-23 | Preparation method of ramie wool elastic fabric |
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| CN105155094B true CN105155094B (en) | 2017-01-18 |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN110438629A (en) * | 2019-09-11 | 2019-11-12 | 江苏华鹿纺织有限公司 | A kind of porous elastic and preparation method thereof |
Families Citing this family (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN105624871A (en) * | 2016-04-01 | 2016-06-01 | 张家港市东亚毛纺织有限公司 | Hemp section fancy elastic worsted wool yarn and preparation method thereof |
| CN106723551A (en) * | 2016-12-07 | 2017-05-31 | 浙江寰丰纺织有限公司 | A kind of wool blended wrinkle resistant antibacterial suiting and preparation method thereof |
Family Cites Families (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| JPH0947380A (en) * | 1995-08-09 | 1997-02-18 | Inter Rinkusu:Kk | Craped silk towel for bathing |
| KR100421705B1 (en) * | 2001-04-20 | 2004-03-10 | 고려연마공업 주식회사 | Woven Sheet for Abrasive Fabrics |
| CN101070656B (en) * | 2007-06-18 | 2010-12-15 | 湖南华升株洲雪松有限公司 | Super-high-grade knitted pure ramie fabric preparing method and product |
| CN101942735A (en) * | 2010-07-21 | 2011-01-12 | 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 | Production method of flax hair spun silk interwoven tweed |
| CN102618993B (en) * | 2012-04-09 | 2013-06-19 | 张家港市华鹿毛纺有限公司 | Method for preparing cashmere fabric |
| CN103255556A (en) * | 2013-05-15 | 2013-08-21 | 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 | Multicomponent spinning wool knitting fabric and finishing process thereof |
| CN104510055B (en) * | 2014-12-24 | 2017-07-18 | 江苏华西村纺织服装有限公司 | Wool/crotalaria sp/mulberry silk/cotton polyester fiber blended fabric and preparation method |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN110438629A (en) * | 2019-09-11 | 2019-11-12 | 江苏华鹿纺织有限公司 | A kind of porous elastic and preparation method thereof |
| CN110438629B (en) * | 2019-09-11 | 2020-11-03 | 江苏华鹿纺织有限公司 | Porous elastic woolen cloth and preparation method thereof |
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