CN101942735A - Production method of flax hair spun silk interwoven tweed - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a production method of flax hair spun silk interwoven tweed, which comprises the following steps: taking 52% of 17.5mu m Australasian wool, 19% of 120/2 spun silk yarn and 29% of 80/2 flax yarn as raw materials, top dyeing and recombing, spinning, weaving, and dyeing and finishing, wherein the top dyeing and recombing adopts a Lanasol dye. The invention organically combines three natural fibers of the wool, spun silk yarn and ultrafine flax yarn together, and enables the product to have superior wearability and good visual perception. By combining different appearance characteristics of different raw materials and the change of textures, the product has obvious third dimension, distinct gradations and bright color. The product has coolness, good air permeability, strong heat dissipation, easy sweat absorption, smooth handle, comfortable sensation and small possibility of pilling.

Description

The interweave production method of fancy suiting of flax hair spun silk

(1) technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of production method of lining, especially relate to the interweave production method of fancy suiting of mao spun silk that grows flax.Belong to field of fabric producing technology.

(2) background technology

Raising day by day along with people's living standard, consumption idea is brought in constant renewal in, the wool spinning fabric forward is lightening, superior, comfortableization direction develops, the market demand of medium and high-grade goods increases gradually, particularly the consumption of the quality of fabric lining, kind, fancy, easy nursing etc. requires more and more higher, how organically new raw material, new technology, new technology, new equipment being merged, the Widening Design thinking will be the fabric design worker emphasis and the direction of a period of time work from now on.

(3) summary of the invention

The object of the present invention is to provide the interweave production method of fancy suiting of a kind of nice and cool, good permeability, flax hair spun silk that thermal diffusivity is strong.

The object of the present invention is achieved like this: the interweave production method of fancy suiting of mao spun silk that grows flax, described fancy suiting is to be that 52% 17.5um Australia hair, mass percent are that 19% 120/2 spun silk yarn and mass percent are that 29% 80/2 linen yarn is a raw material with mass percent, dye recombing, spin, weave with dyeing and finishing and form through bar

1) raw material physical index and specification

Linen yarn:

Do fracture strength 4.93～5.7cN/dtex

Wet breaking strength 5.1～6.8cN/dtex

Elastic restoration ratio 48%

Relative density 1.55

20 ℃ of RH65% hydroscopicities 13%

Spun silk yarn:

Do fracture strength: 3.0-3.5cN/dtex

Wet breaking strength: 1.85-2.46cN/dtex

Elastic restoration ratio: 55%

Relative density: 1.42

20 ℃ of RH65% hydroscopicities: 9%

2) spinning specification

Through A, B: single thread 88/1 800 sth. made by twisting/rice Z twist with the fingers, or:

Plying 86/2 900 sth. made by twisting/rice S twist with the fingers

Latitude O:80 props up/2 linen yarn

Latitude P:120 props up/2 spun silk yarns

3) institutional framework

Warp thread is arranged: the A7B3C1A5C1B3A7B3/30 root

Weft yarn arrangement: A1B1/2 root

4) trimmed size

Warp count: 380/10cm

Weft count: 340/10cm

Fabric width: 154cm

Mi Chong: 270 gram/rice

Its master operation comprises:

1) bar dyes recombing

Dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → finished product bar

2) spinning

Silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove → closely spin spun yarn → yarn steaming → from winder → yarn steaming

3) weave

Warping → gait → plug in reed → weave → base inspection

4) dyeing and finishing

Flat boil → drying → bristle → singing → put down boil → dry by the fire → finalize the design → middle inspection → dewing → decatizing → jar steaming → finished product.

The present invention is that employing Wool Yarns, spun silk yarn and linen yarn are the interweaving type product of main raw material.Three kinds of raw material physics, chemical properties differ greatly, and how to make each raw material bring into play biggest advantage separately, and through repetition test and adjustment, the concrete production technology of each operation is as follows:

Bar dyes recombing:

For compliance with environmental protection requirements with reduce damage as small as possible, select for use and receive blue uniformly dyeing material wool.

Spinning:

The present invention adopts the depth plate silk structure that interweaves, and in order to guarantee the bright and clean and attractive in appearance of product face, in this procedure that spins, has mainly taked following Several Measures:

Rove heavily is controlled at 0.39～0.41g/m surely, has both looked after the drawing-off of spun yarn, guarantees the unwinding of rove again, prevents misdraft.

Be placed on the four-roller compact spinning fine spining machine and produce, 20 times of drafting multiples reduce yarn card nailing neps, filoplume, improve yarn qualities.

Because the spun silk yarn filoplume is longer, selects for use yarn singeing technology that spun silk yarn is handled, and farthest reduces the filoplume on spun silk surface.

Select 80/2 count linen yarn for use.

Weaving process:

The warping technology parameter is determined as follows:

Linear velocity 300m/min, beaming linear velocity 50m/min

Dyeing and finishing:

Consider that lousiness fried dough twist institutional framework is special, the composition variation, take different technology during the arrangement of back:

Singe: positive and negative respectively once

Braying, fulling: flax product poor dimensional stability, adopted braying → fulling → braying → milling process path combination at this problem, braying is for the first time shunk the fabric preliminarily stabilised, feel is strengthened in braying for the second time, and right face dries, and allows face form airbag, avoided conventional braying easily to cause the defect of colored type displacement, simultaneously also make the product good hand feeling, third dimension is strong.Fulling has adopted 150 meters/minute of speed, and pressure is 0 technology.

Cut brush: adopt six cutter shearing machines, 4 positive 2 is anti-, and it is two positive one anti-that bristle adopts.

Baking: 140 ℃ of temperature, open-width 158cm, last overfeeding 8%, following overfeeding 6%, hairbrush overfeeding 8%, following gate width of cloth 158-159cm, 30 meters/minute of speed.

Typing: 195 ℃ of temperature, processing time 10min.

Dewing: moisture regain 14-16%, intermittently 2-3 hour.

The invention has the beneficial effects as follows:

The present invention organically combines wool, spun silk yarn and three kinds of natural fabrics of superelevation count linen yarn, has given the wearability of product fine and good visual experience.By the variation of the different appearance characteristics conjunctive tissue of various raw materials, make the product third dimension outstanding, well arranged, bright in luster.This product is nice and cool, good permeability, thermal diffusivity are strong, and easily absorbing sweat and feel are sliding glutinous, comfortable, are difficult for balling-up.

(4) specific embodiment

The interweave production method of fancy suiting of flax hair spun silk that the present invention relates to, described fancy suiting is to be that 52% 17.5um Australia hair, mass percent are that 19% 120/2 spun silk yarn and mass percent are that 29% 80/2 linen yarn is a raw material with mass percent, dye recombing, spin, weave with dyeing and finishing and form through bar

1) raw material physical index and specification

Linen yarn:

Do fracture strength 4.93～5.7c N/dtex

Wet breaking strength 5.1～6.8cN/dtex

Elastic restoration ratio 48%

Relative density 1.55

Hydroscopicity (20 ℃ of RH65%) 13%

Spun silk yarn:

Do fracture strength: 3.0-3.5cN/dtex

Wet breaking strength: 1.85-2.46cN/dtex

Elastic restoration ratio: 55%

Relative density: 1.42

Hydroscopicity: (20 ℃ of RH65%) 9%

2) spinning specification

Through A, B: single thread 88/1 800 sth. made by twisting/rice Z twist with the fingers

Plying 86/2 900 sth. made by twisting/rice S twist with the fingers

Latitude O:80 props up/2 linen yarn

Latitude P:120 props up/2 spun silk yarns

3) institutional framework

Warp thread is arranged: A ₇B ₃C ₁A ₅C ₁B ₃A ₇B ₃/ 30

Weft yarn arrangement: A ₁B ₁/ 2

4) trimmed size

Warp count: 380/10cm

Weft count: 340/10cm

Fabric width: 154cm

Mi Chong: 270 gram/rice

Its master operation comprises:

1) bar dyes recombing

Dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → finished product bar

2) spinning

Silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove → closely spin spun yarn → yarn steaming → from winder → yarn steaming

3) weave

Warping → gait → plug in reed → weave → base inspection

4) dyeing and finishing

Flat boil → drying → bristle → singing → put down boil → dry by the fire → finalize the design → middle inspection → dewing → decatizing → jar steaming → finished product.

The concrete production technology of each operation is as follows:

Bar dyes recombing:

Select for use and receive blue uniformly dyeing material

Spinning:

Rove heavily is controlled at 0.39～0.41g/m surely,

Be placed on the four-roller compact spinning fine spining machine and produce, 20 times of drafting multiples,

Adopt yarn singeing technology that spun silk yarn is handled,

Select 80/2 count linen yarn for use,

Weaving process:

The warping technology parameter is determined as follows:

Linear velocity 300m/min, beaming linear velocity 50m/min

Dyeing and finishing:

Singe: positive and negative each once,

Braying, fulling: 150 meters/minute of fulling employing speed, pressure are 0 technology,

Cut brush: adopt six cutter shearing machines, 4 positive 2 is anti-, and it is two positive one anti-that bristle adopts,

Baking: 140 ℃ of temperature, open-width 158cm, last overfeeding 8%, following overfeeding 6%, hairbrush overfeeding 8%, following machine width of cloth 158-159cm, 30 meters/minute of speed,

Typing: 195 ℃ of temperature, processing time 10min,

Dewing: moisture regain 14-16%.

Claims (1)

1. the interweave production method of fancy suiting of mao spun silk that grows flax, it is characterized in that described fancy suiting is is that 52% 17.5um Australia hair, mass percent are that 19% 120/2 spun silk yarn and mass percent are that 29% 80/2 dimity is a raw material with mass percent, dye recombing, spin, weave with dyeing and finishing and form through bar

1) raw material physical index and specification

Linen yarn:

Do fracture strength 4.93～5.7c N/dtex

Wet breaking strength 5.1～6.8cN/dtex

Elastic restoration ratio 48%

Relative density 1.55

20 ℃ of RH65% hydroscopicities 13%

Spun silk yarn:

Do fracture strength: 3.0-3.5cN/dtex

Wet breaking strength: 1.85-2.46cN/dtex

Elastic restoration ratio: 55%

Relative density: 1.42

20 ℃ of RH65% hydroscopicities: 9%

2) spinning specification

Through A, B: single thread 88/1 800 sth. made by twisting/rice Z twist with the fingers, or:

Plying 86/2 900 sth. made by twisting/rice S twist with the fingers

Latitude O:80 props up/2 linen yarn

Latitude P:120 props up/2 spun silk yarns

3) institutional framework

Warp thread is arranged: the A7B3C1A5C1B3A7B3/30 root

Weft yarn arrangement: A1B1/2 root

4) trimmed size

Warp count: 380/10cm

Weft count: 340/10cm

Fabric width: 154cm

Mi Chong: 270 gram/rice

Its master operation comprises:

1) bar dyes recombing

Dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → finished product bar

2) spinning

Silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove → closely spin spun yarn → yarn steaming → from winder → yarn steaming

3) weave

Warping → gait → plug in reed → weave → base inspection

4) dyeing and finishing

Flat boil → drying → bristle → singing → put down boil → dry by the fire → finalize the design → middle inspection → dewing → decatizing → jar steaming → finished product,

The concrete production technology of each operation is as follows:

Bar dyes recombing:

Select for use and receive blue uniformly dyeing material

Spinning:

Rove heavily is controlled at 0.39～0.41g/m surely,

Be placed on the four-roller compact spinning fine spining machine and produce, 20 times of drafting multiples,

Adopt yarn singeing technology that spun silk yarn is handled,

Select 80/2 count linen yarn for use,

Weaving process:

The warping technology parameter is determined as follows:

Linear velocity 300m/min, beaming linear velocity 50m/min

Dyeing and finishing:

Singe: positive and negative each once,

Braying, fulling: 150 meters/minute of fulling employing speed, pressure are 0 technology,

Cut brush: adopt six cutter shearing machines, 4 positive 2 is anti-, and it is two positive one anti-that bristle adopts,

Baking: 140 ℃ of temperature, open-width 158cm, last overfeeding 8%, following overfeeding 6%, hairbrush overfeeding 8%, following gate width of cloth 158-159cm, 30 meters/minute of speed,

Typing: 195 ℃ of temperature, processing time 10min,

Dewing: moisture regain 14-16%.