CN105155094A - Preparation method of ramie wool elastic fabric - Google Patents

Preparation method of ramie wool elastic fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105155094A
CN105155094A CN201510608238.7A CN201510608238A CN105155094A CN 105155094 A CN105155094 A CN 105155094A CN 201510608238 A CN201510608238 A CN 201510608238A CN 105155094 A CN105155094 A CN 105155094A
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ramie
fabric
spinning
preparation
spandex
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CN105155094B (en
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许燕平
顾香兰
陶春燕
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Jiangsu Hualu Textile Co ltd
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Jiangsu Hualu Textile Co ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method of ramie wool elastic fabric, which comprises the following preparation steps: 1) warp yarn: adopting spinning, wherein the yarn count is Nm 50/2-60/2; weft yarn: spinning with yarn count Ne50/2 and 32/1+ spandex; weaving the warp yarns and the weft yarns by adopting 2/2 tissues and 100-105 total tightness to obtain gray fabric; 2) and (3) after finishing: grey cloth shaping → singeing → continuous boiling → washing shrinkage → double boiling → drying → middle checking → ripe trimming → brush hair → napping → washing → drying → shaping → shearing → softening → can steaming to obtain the finished product. White ramie is added into the last gill comb of the re-combing, and the bamboo joint effect of the finished cloth cover is achieved by utilizing the characteristic that ramie stripes are not easy to be uniformly mixed; the spinning section only passes through the last path of needle comb and one path of roving; the size stability of the fabric is improved by adopting a water washing process in the after-finishing; the napping process enables the cloth surface to have slight fluff, increases the warm feeling and the softness of the fabric, finally enables the product to have the advantages of easy washing, good elasticity, no fluffing and pilling and the like, and is completely suitable for manufacturing high-grade casual suit fabric.

Description

A kind of preparation method of ramie hair elastic fabric
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation method of fabric, a kind of preparation method of ramie hair elastic fabric, belongs to field of textiles.
Background technology
What require properties of textile along with the progress of textile science technology and the mankind improves constantly, and people have higher requirement to the feel of garment material and visual effect.
Ramie is the distinctive hemp resource of China, and be called as " China's grass ", China is main ramie producing country in the world, and ramie output accounts for Gross World Product more than 90%.Ramee belongs to natural green ecological fiber, there is moisture absorption, ventilative, heat conduction is fast, fall apart the premium properties such as wet fast, antibacterial, anti-mite, mildew-resistant, uvioresistant, electrostatic, attract attention with the natural function of its uniqueness and biodegradability, its Fabric Style rude and natural, environmental protection, be one of desirable raw material of garment material, containing ramie fabric, there is cooling feeling and slim and graceful sense, the antibacterial characteristic such as anticorrosion.
Due to ramie fiber count low (1400Nm ~ 1800Nm), fiber is thick and stiff, Young's modulus is large, filament regularity is poor, and the restriction of the objective condition such as length variation coefficient large (distribution of lengths is within the scope of 20 ~ 250mm), is difficult to spin high grade yarn, conventional products is the low-and-medium-grade products such as 7.5Nm ~ 36Nm ramie yarn and cloth, and because ramie goods filoplume is many, elasticity is little, prodding and itching feeling waits cause influence wearability by force.
Easily there are the quality problems such as look flower, aberration, color and luster are not bright-coloured in ramie in addition, ramee also has that rigidity is strong and the shortcoming such as toughness is not enough, between evenness fault, fiber cohesive force is poor, certain difficulty is there is in spinning process, current spinning Discussion on Blended Products is a lot, outer appearnce, with common worsted fabric, lacks fiber crops joint appearance effect intermittently, and poor flexibility, wearability is bad, easily wrinkling.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is: provide a kind of and have excellent antibacterial, anti-mite effect, good permeability, heat conduction are fast, loose wet fast, silkiness gloss, tool is intermittently numb again simultaneously saves appearance effect, and excellent spring, the preparation method of the ramie hair elastic fabric that anti-craping character is good.
For solving the problems of the technologies described above, the technical solution used in the present invention is: a kind of preparation method of ramie hair elastic fabric, and its preparation process is:
1) warp thread: adopt spinning, yarn count Nm50/2 ~ 60/2; Weft yarn: adopt spinning, yarn count Ne50/2 and 32/1+ spandex; Warp thread and weft yarn adopt 2/2 to organize, the total tightness degree of 100-105 is weaved to obtain grey cloth;
2) postfinishing process: grey cloth shapes → singes → connect boil → wash contracting → bis-boil → dry → middle inspection → ripe repaiies → bristle → napping → washing → oven dry → sizing → cropping → softness → tank steaming, obtains finished product;
Add the aqueous solution of softener, smooth agent configuration in described soft process, both mass percentage are all 3 ± 0.2%;
Described spinning employing wool (Australia's hair), terylene, spun silk, ramie and the blending of 40D spandex, by mass percentage, blending raw material consists of: wool 48.5% ~ 51.5%, terylene 29.3% ~ 31.1%, spun silk 10.7% ~ 11.3%, ramie 7.4% ~ 7.8%, 40D spandex 1.16% ~ 1.24%, various raw material is learnt from other's strong points to offset one's weaknesses, and gives full play to the premium properties of raw material itself.
Described spinning employing wool, terylene, spun silk, ramie and the blending of 40D spandex, by mass percentage, blending raw material preferably consists of: wool 50%, terylene 30.2%, spun silk 11%, ramie 7.6%, 40D spandex 1.2%.
Described is spinning, workshop section of spinning in its process decreases operation compared with traditional handicraft, shorten front road technique, before spin six procedures, in order to ensure the irregular effect of flax fibre, reducing to two procedures, only adopting finisher gilling+one rove, for ensureing that yarn strength and percentage elongation workshop temperature control as 20-25 DEG C, relative air humidity 75-85%; Add intensity and the toughness of yarn, make even tension suffered by yarn, the number of times that broken yarn produces reduces, and guarantees weaving efficiency;
Described raw material wool, terylene, spun silk, after dyed, bar contaminates recombing mixing sliver again, and in the end one grilling process adds ramie in proportion, after preceding working procedure completes, spun yarn adds 40D spandex, the final effect stretch yarn obtaining ring.
Napping → washing process in described Final finishing, first three wharf's pavement quality are carried out to fabric reverse side, then a wharf's pavement quality is carried out to fabric front, Maoma product substantially only does light face, matte is not easy to do, matte slight after napping can increase the abundant degree of fabric, increases the soft feel of fabric after washing, also can increase the wrinkle resistance of fabric simultaneously.In addition, by taking into account the characteristic of fiber crops and spandex, reduce balling-up, make cloth cover have warming sense, also solve the out-of-flatness (folding line) of burlap, the allochroic technical barrier of spandex: the content of fiber crops only accounts for 7% in the content of whole fabric, affecting every physical index of fabric is not decisive role, by the complementation of raw material, and various process means makes face both reach the effect of fiber crops, and every physical index meets again the requirement of woollens completely.Simultaneously the adding of spandex, further increase the elastic recovery function of fabric, also just allow fabric have more natural crease-resistant function.Maoma stockinette and filled up the vacancy of numb elastic force on market.
Beneficial effect: ramie has difficult quality and controls, easily cause the quality problems such as look flower, aberration, color and luster are not bright-coloured, adopt white ramie to add at last one grilling of recombing in technical scheme, utilize the characteristic that ramie stripes not easily mixes, to reach the ring effect of finished product cloth cover; Ramee also has that rigidity is strong and toughness is not enough, and the shortcoming such as cohesive force difference between evenness fault, fiber, spinning workshop section reduces operation, and merely through finisher gilling and one rove, workshop temperature controls as 20-25 DEG C, control relative air humidity 75-85%.Postfinishing process: adopt washing process to improve the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of fabric on the one hand, stablize the washing shrinkage of fabric, solve the technical barrier that burlap easily produces folding line simultaneously; Adopt napping process to make cloth cover have slight fine hair on the other hand, increase fabric warming sense and pliability, finally make this product have the advantage of easy washing, good springiness, phozy balling-up etc., be applicable to making high-grade leisure Western-style clothes fabric completely.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with embodiment, the invention will be further described, but can not as limitation of the present invention.
Specific embodiment
One, fabric specification design
Raw material: wool 50%, terylene 30.2%, spun silk 11%, ramie 7.6%, 40D spandex 1.2%.
Yarn count: (50/2+60/2) * 50/2+ (32/1+PU);
Twist factor: single thread 85, plying 125; Tightness 105.2 density 297*257 root/10cm;
Institutional framework adopts 2/2 side to put down.
Two, postfinishing process
Final finishing flow process: grey cloth shapes → singes → connect boil → wash contracting → bis-boil → dry → middle inspection → ripe repaiies → bristle → napping → washing → oven dry → sizing → cropping → softness → tank steaming, obtains finished product;
Setting temperature 185 DEG C, effective shaping time 45 seconds; Connect and boil 85 DEG C of 15 minutes times of temperature; Twoly boil 85 DEG C of water temperatures and boil 7 times; Braying fulling once completes on Italian CZMZ combination machine of washing and shrinking, concrete technology: braying temperature 45 C, 40 minutes, the speed of a motor vehicle 180 ms/min, fulling reducing 8 centimetres, pressure roller 1.5bar, contracting case pressure 1.0bar, the speed of a motor vehicle 180 ms/min, before plucking operation, carry out flexible smooth processing to fabric, be convenient to rear road plucking and reduce strength loss, the consumption of softener, smooth agent is respectively add 3% with the ratio of water, pick-up rate 60%, overfeeding 10%; Cropping reverse side is long, and front adopts minimum spacing, and to ensure that fabric has velvet, can reach the anti-fluffing and anti-pilling index of 3-4 level simultaneously; Tank steams on KD95, and pressure 0.6bar ~ 0.7bar, processes 3 minutes, hot light technological temperature 140 DEG C, pressure, the speed of a motor vehicle 15 ms/min, and washing adds leavening agent and washes oven dry in 20 minutes. cropping. and decatizing.
Finally make this product have the advantage of easy washing, good springiness, phozy balling-up etc., be applicable to making high-grade slim leisure Western-style clothes fabric.
Product the key technical indexes:
Yarn count: (50/2+60/2) * 50/2+ (32/1+PU);
Grammes per square metre: 335 grams/meter;
Composition: wool 50%, terylene 30.2%, spun silk 11%, ramie 7.6%, 40DPU1.2%;
Product top-quality product rate > 99%.

Claims (3)

1. a preparation method for ramie hair elastic fabric, its preparation process is:
1) warp thread: adopt spinning, yarn count Nm50/2 ~ 60/2; Weft yarn: adopt spinning, yarn count Ne50/2 and 32/1+ spandex; Warp thread and weft yarn adopt 2/2 to organize, the total tightness degree of 100-105 is weaved to obtain grey cloth;
2) postfinishing process: grey cloth shapes → singes → connect boil → wash contracting → bis-boil → dry → middle inspection → ripe repaiies → bristle → napping → washing → oven dry → sizing → cropping → softness → tank steaming, obtains finished product;
Described spinning employing wool, terylene, spun silk, ramie and the blending of 40D spandex, by mass percentage, the raw material of blending consists of: wool 48.5% ~ 51.5%, terylene 29.3% ~ 31.1%, spun silk 10.7% ~ 11.3%, ramie 7.4% ~ 7.8%, 40D spandex 1.16% ~ 1.24%;
Described is spinning, and the spinning process in its process is: finisher gilling → one rove, and it is 20-25 DEG C, relative air humidity 75-85% that spinning process controls workshop temperature;
Described raw material wool, terylene and spun silk, after dyed, bar contaminates recombing mixing sliver again, in the end adds ramie in proportion in one grilling process;
Add softener solution and the smooth agent aqueous solution in described soft process, both mass percentage are all 3 ± 0.2%.
2. the preparation method of a kind of ramie hair elastic fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described blending raw material, by mass percentage, it consists of: wool 50%, terylene 30.2%, spun silk 11%, ramie 7.6%, 40D spandex 1.2%.
3. the preparation method of a kind of ramie hair elastic fabric according to claim 1 and 2, it is characterized in that: finishing process is: the napping process in described Final finishing, comprise: first three wharf's pavement quality are carried out to fabric reverse side, then a wharf's pavement quality is carried out to fabric front.
CN201510608238.7A 2015-09-23 2015-09-23 Preparation method of ramie wool elastic fabric Active CN105155094B (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105624871A (en) * 2016-04-01 2016-06-01 张家港市东亚毛纺织有限公司 Hemp section fancy elastic worsted wool yarn and preparation method thereof
CN106723551A (en) * 2016-12-07 2017-05-31 浙江寰丰纺织有限公司 A kind of wool blended wrinkle resistant antibacterial suiting and preparation method thereof

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110438629B (en) * 2019-09-11 2020-11-03 江苏华鹿纺织有限公司 Porous elastic woolen cloth and preparation method thereof

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JPH0947380A (en) * 1995-08-09 1997-02-18 Inter Rinkusu:Kk Craped silk towel for bathing
KR20020082310A (en) * 2001-04-20 2002-10-31 고려연마공업 주식회사 Woven Sheet for Abrasive Fabrics
CN101942735A (en) * 2010-07-21 2011-01-12 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Production method of flax hair spun silk interwoven tweed
CN102618993A (en) * 2012-04-09 2012-08-01 张家港市华鹿毛纺有限公司 Method for preparing cashmere fabric
US8375537B2 (en) * 2007-06-18 2013-02-19 Hunan Huasheng Zhuzhou Cedar Co., Ltd. Process for manufacturing super-high-count ramie fabric and the fabric
CN103255556A (en) * 2013-05-15 2013-08-21 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Multicomponent spinning wool knitting fabric and finishing process thereof
CN104510055A (en) * 2014-12-24 2015-04-15 江苏华西村精毛纺织有限公司 Wool/crotalaria sp./mulberry silk/cotton/polyester fiber blended fabric and preparation method thereof

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0947380A (en) * 1995-08-09 1997-02-18 Inter Rinkusu:Kk Craped silk towel for bathing
KR20020082310A (en) * 2001-04-20 2002-10-31 고려연마공업 주식회사 Woven Sheet for Abrasive Fabrics
US8375537B2 (en) * 2007-06-18 2013-02-19 Hunan Huasheng Zhuzhou Cedar Co., Ltd. Process for manufacturing super-high-count ramie fabric and the fabric
CN101942735A (en) * 2010-07-21 2011-01-12 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Production method of flax hair spun silk interwoven tweed
CN102618993A (en) * 2012-04-09 2012-08-01 张家港市华鹿毛纺有限公司 Method for preparing cashmere fabric
CN103255556A (en) * 2013-05-15 2013-08-21 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Multicomponent spinning wool knitting fabric and finishing process thereof
CN104510055A (en) * 2014-12-24 2015-04-15 江苏华西村精毛纺织有限公司 Wool/crotalaria sp./mulberry silk/cotton/polyester fiber blended fabric and preparation method thereof

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105624871A (en) * 2016-04-01 2016-06-01 张家港市东亚毛纺织有限公司 Hemp section fancy elastic worsted wool yarn and preparation method thereof
CN106723551A (en) * 2016-12-07 2017-05-31 浙江寰丰纺织有限公司 A kind of wool blended wrinkle resistant antibacterial suiting and preparation method thereof

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