CN101988232A - Production method of all-cotton high-tenacity double-faced polyester peach skin knitted fabric and shell fabric thereof - Google Patents
Production method of all-cotton high-tenacity double-faced polyester peach skin knitted fabric and shell fabric thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN101988232A CN101988232A CN2009100559170A CN200910055917A CN101988232A CN 101988232 A CN101988232 A CN 101988232A CN 2009100559170 A CN2009100559170 A CN 2009100559170A CN 200910055917 A CN200910055917 A CN 200910055917A CN 101988232 A CN101988232 A CN 101988232A
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Abstract
The invention relates to a production method of all-cotton high-tenacity double-faced polyester peach skin knitted fabric and a shell fabric thereof. The production method comprises the following steps of: preparing raw materials, knitting on a machine, treating before inspection, dyeing, softening, tentering for forming, napping on surface, and scutching for forming. The finished product produced by using the method is a double-faced all-cotton knitted fabric, unifom, fine and dense fluff layers are formed on the exterior surface and the interior surface of the fabric by the napping mode, so that the fabric not only has extremely soft and comfortable hand feel on the exterior and the interior, but also has high bursting strength and excellent pilling resistance. The fabric is the most ideal shell fabric choice for close-fitting dresses and has broad market potential.
Description
[technical field]
The present invention relates to the production method and the lining thereof of a kind of knitted fabric in the textile technology field, the production method and the lining thereof of the two-sided peach face knitted fabric of particularly a kind of cotton high-tenacity.
[background technology]
Peach face is tread flaking from artificial suede, be a kind of fabric face and vision all like the velour of peach skin, textural it be a kind of slim sand milling fleece that forms by the superfine synthesized fiber system of knitting.Because without the wet-treating of polyester ester, so quality is more soft, shorter because of its suede again, fine hair is not almost seen on the surface and skin can perception, so that feel and outward appearance are finer and smoother and unique, the soft elegance of peach face gloss is given the consumer a kind of novel sense, be fit to the consumer psychology of people's curiosity, so that become the new favorite in market.
Along with cotton type fabric sanding processing process years of development, after sanding, give novel feel and high-grade style, fabric face fine hair is thinner, and is closeer, evener, and the direction of shorter nap effect develops.Because influencing the principal element of peach face effect is the rubber order number of the roller surface of multiple roll roughing-up machine, the fabric yarn count, density, wrap angle, the sanding roller revolution, sanding tension force, factors such as the speed of a motor vehicle are relevant.And the knitted fabric of cotton is short more close more in order to grind fine hair, sanding roller will be deep into the organization internal of fabric fiber is opened, so the damage of fabric strength is very big, usually gall fabric, so that can't take, in this case, the measure of taking is to knit very the density of fabric closely, to such an extent as to the feel of fabric is stiff, take the dress uncomfortable.
Raising along with people's living standard, people wear the also suitable strictness of requirement, not only require fabric one side demand peach face effect, and wish the positive and negative effect that comfortable peach face is all arranged of fabric, and feel requires extremely soft comfortable, general like this complete cotton knitted fabric is difficult to reach, if by technological operation like this, the brute force of fabric can't satisfy the basic requirement of taking.
[summary of the invention]
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to overcome existing defective in the above-mentioned prior art, and a kind of cotton high-tenacity two-sided peach face knitted fabric production method and lining thereof are provided.
The present invention has adopted following technical proposal to solve its technical problem, and production method of the present invention comprises following operation:
1) raw material is prepared, and adopts the yarn count of cotton, and its number is 28
S～80
S, can mix long-staple cotton, its ratio is 10%～50%, will carry out warm and humid balance at least 24 hours in 23 ± 2 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65 ± 3% environment before the last machine;
2) knitting, use plane No. to be 22G～32G, its institutional framework is two-sided tissue, on the one side of two-sided tissue, be encased inside the yarn A of a napping during braiding, make yarn A and wire gauze B lopping simultaneously, feed the angle of regulating yarn feeding, yarn A is covered wire gauze B, the nexine surface that makes fabric is yarn A, and the density of debugging fabric, and the every Gram Mass that makes finished product is at 140g/m
2～350g/m
2, the count of finished product is 12～20 stringers/cm, the bursting strength of finished product blank reaches 400KPa at least;
3) check, pre-treatment;
4) dyeing, dyeing temperature is 60～90 ℃, programming rate is 1～3 ℃/m, and adds softener 5～15% simultaneously, color-fixing agent 2～5%;
5) soft treatment uses cation amino modification softener that described fabric is carried out soft treatment, and softener is that concentration is 3～8%, and adds the bleeding agent of 0.5～2g/L simultaneously;
6) stentering forming, with fabric dry, stentering forming, wherein bake out temperature is 150～170 ℃, air quantity is 1400～1600rpm, the speed of a motor vehicle is 30～50m/m, overfeeding is 10～30%;
7) napping is handled, and by roughing-up machine napping processing is carried out on fabric outer surface and nexine surface, and its superficies sanding is: napping 2～5 times, and the speed of a motor vehicle remains on 7～12m/s, and tension force is 35～60Kg; Nexine surface sanding is: napping 1-3 time, the speed of a motor vehicle remains on 8～14m/s, and tension force is 30～55Kg; The rotating speed of bristle roller: during the superficies napping 65～85%, during the napping of nexine surface 76～95%;
8) open-width typing, wherein bake out temperature is 130～170 ℃, and air quantity is 1400～1600rpm, and overfeeding is 25～45%, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 30～50m/m.
The present invention utilizes the two-sided peach face knitted fabric of the resulting cotton high-tenacity of aforementioned production method lining, adopt two-sided institutional framework, two one threads cover the other side's yarn mutually in its structure, each self-forming one deck all has the fabric face of positive coil distribution, and makes fabric outer surface and nexine surface respectively form one deck 0.1～0.8mm thin and close fine hair uniformly by napping.
The present invention compared with prior art has tangible advantage and good effect.The present invention has all even and fine and close fine hair of one deck outside the superficies of fabric and surface, lining, not only make the two-sided of complete cotton knitted fabric have the peach face effect, and feel is extremely soft, wears next to the skin snugly; The present invention is powerful high, and product has higher bursting power, can reach more than the 400KPa, considerably beyond the requirement of taking; The present invention also has the good mao pilling property that resists to fall, and by Japanese JISL benchmark test, positive and negative has all reached 3～4 grades; Product of the present invention is fit to the first-selection of the high-grade clothing fabric that wears next to the skin very much.
[description of drawings]
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of technological process of the present invention;
Schematic diagram when Fig. 2 weaves for the first via of the present invention;
Schematic diagram when Fig. 3 weaves for the present invention the second tunnel;
The schematic diagram of Fig. 4 during for yarn feeder feeding yarn of the present invention;
Fig. 5 is a product cross section enlarged diagram of the present invention.
Each sequence number is expressed as respectively among the figure:
1-first yarn feeder; 2-second yarn feeder; The A-yarn;
The B-wire gauze; A-surface height of naps.
[specific embodiment]
The description that technical solution of the present invention is described further below in conjunction with specific embodiment.
Technical scheme of the present invention is to select for use 100% cotton yarn to prop up raw material, adopts two-sided institutional framework, then through pre-treatment, and dyeing, tentering oven dry, napping, open-width typing and producing.Its technology is carried out (referring to Fig. 1) according to following order:
1, raw material is prepared,
The feel of lining requires extremely soft, and will be through the processing of napping, and this requires highly to raw material, and promptly yarn count need satisfy the requirement of napping and lining brute force, embodies the top grade of lining again, to the bar bar of yarn count, and the flower shell, cotton knot requires also high.So in order to show the class of lining, can select 100% combed cotton yarn high grade yarn, its number is 28
S～80
S, as 36
S, 40
S, 50
S, 60
SDeng.The suitable certain proportion that adds long-staple cotton grade 137 in distributing cotton is as 10%～50%.Also can be according to the requirement and the class of cloth cover, the proportioning of the yarn count raw cotton that is fit to.Raw material will carry out warm and humid balance at least 24 hours before the last machine in 23 ± 2 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65 ± 3% environment.
2, knitting,
For the product of sanding, very important of the quality control of blank, the particularly control of the fabric quality of blank.The first, the degree of tightness of cloth cover will be fit to, and is too loose, the shrinkage instability of cloth cover, and too tight, the feel of cloth cover is stiff, and is not fluffy, the napping difficulty; The second, cloth cover can not have eye, dropped stitch, and float such as floricome, otherwise that cloth cover is easy to generate the cloth cover napping is irregular, the grey cloth newspaper defect that the long defect of finished product causes.
Institutional framework of the present invention is two-sided tissue, use plane No. 22G～32G to weave, be encased inside the yarn A of a napping on the one side at two-sided tissue when braiding, make yarn A and wire gauze B lopping simultaneously, feed the angle of regulating yarn feeding, yarn A is covered wire gauze B, the nexine surface that makes fabric is yarn A, and the density of debugging fabric, the every Gram Mass that makes finished product is at 140g/m
2～350g/m
2, the count of finished product is 12～20 stringers/cm, the bursting strength of finished product blank reaches 400Kpa at least.
Organize introduction such as Fig. 2, Fig. 3, shown in Figure 4 of knitting cycle.In the knitting operation: during first via braiding, upper and lower low heel pin is eaten the yarn B of first yarn feeder 1 simultaneously, use second yarn feeder, 2 feeding yarn A simultaneously, regulate the angle of yarn A, make yarn A and yarn B in coverer lopping simultaneously, and make yarn A well cover yarn B, formed the surface of yarn A at fabric; During the second tunnel braiding, the yarn B that upper and lower high heel pin is eaten first yarn feeder 1 simultaneously uses second yarn feeder, 2 feeding yarn A simultaneously, regulate the angle of yarn A, make yarn A and yarn B in coverer lopping simultaneously, and make yarn A well cover yarn B, formed the surface of yarn A, referring to Fig. 5 at fabric.
3, check, pre-treatment,
The pre-treatment of this lining is the same with the technology of common all-cotton fabric.The pre-treatment reagent component comprises:
Precious (cotton) GO concentration: 0.5～5g/L in the bath
Plain NF:1～the 3g/L of the flat horse of bleeding agent
Hydrogen peroxide: 1～5g/L
Hydrogen peroxide stabilizer HG-A:1～2g/L
Chelating agent S:1～2g/L
Sheet alkali NAOH:1～5g/L.
4, dyeing,
The dyeing of this lining also dyeing with common all-cotton fabric is the same, all is to select reactive dyeing for use, guarantees to obtain good coloured light after cloth cover goes out cylinder, and the feel of cloth cover of will obtaining behind the cylinder of this lining is wanted soft fluffy simultaneously, is convenient to the napping of this cloth.
Dyeing temperature is 60～90 ℃, and the best constant temperature is 60～67 degree, and programming rate is 1～3 ℃/m, and pH value is 10.5～11.8, and adds softener 5～15% simultaneously, color-fixing agent 2～5%.Use simultaneously to help guaranteeing that COLOR FASTNESS is good, and stable, being difficult for the compound alkali that look is spent, its component comprises:
NA
2SO
4：70～90g/L
NA
2CO
3：6～10g/L
NAOH：0.5～0.9g/L
5, soft treatment,
Use cation amino modification softener that described fabric is carried out soft treatment, softener is that concentration is 3～8%, and optium concentration is 5%, and adds the bleeding agent of 0.5～2g/L simultaneously, and the best is 1～2g/L.
6, stentering forming, with fabric dry, stentering forming, purpose is the stability for the shrinkage that increases cloth cover, guarantees the smooth of cloth cover simultaneously, guarantees the uniformity of napping and easy fluffing performance better.Wherein bake out temperature is 150～170 ℃, and air quantity is 1400～1600rpm, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 30～50m/m, and overfeeding is 10～30%.
7, napping is handled, the napping effect is most important to be the selection parameter of sanding, the pass of napping particularly, the speed of napping, and the size of tension force, just can embody the density of fine hair and the softness of feel, otherwise the easy napping inequality of cloth cover, and the bar seal is obviously, and bursting strength is low, fall hair easily, do not meet the requirement of taking of lining.The present invention carries out napping processing by daraf(reciprocal of farad) carbon element roughing-up machine to fabric outer surface and nexine surface, and its superficies sanding is: napping 2～5 times, and the speed of a motor vehicle remains on 7～12m/s, and tension force is 35～60Kg; Nexine surface sanding is: napping 1-3 time, the speed of a motor vehicle remains on 8～14m/s, and tension force is 30～55Kg; The rotating speed of bristle roller: during the superficies napping 65～85%, during the napping of nexine surface 75～95%.
8, open-width typing, wherein bake out temperature is 130～170 ℃, and air quantity is 1400～1600rpm, and overfeeding is 25～45%, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 30～50m/m, getting the finished product door width of cloth at last is 34 "/200cm, the finished product grammes per square metre is 230g/m
2
The present invention is extremely soft in order to guarantee fabric feeling, and form the thin and close fine hair of layer of even on fabric outer surface and about layer, back arrangement by fabric, can not only improve fabric quality stability, also strengthen simultaneously the snugness of fit of this material clothing, can bring unprecedented sensory effects and vision impulse.
Referring to Fig. 5, the lining of finished product of the present invention adopts two-sided institutional framework, two one threads cover the other side's yarn mutually in its structure, each self-forming one deck all has the fabric face of positive coil distribution, and makes fabric outer surface and nexine surface respectively form the thin and close fine hair of layer of even by napping.
The yarn count composition of the facing fabric of finished product of the present invention is a cotton, and number props up 28 at English
S～80
SScope in, every Gram Mass of finished product is at 140g/m
2～280g/m
2, the count of finished product is 12～20 stringers/cm, the finished product bursting strength is reached for 300Kpa.The nexine surface of this facing fabric and superficies height of naps a are 0.1～0.8mm.
Below be one embodiment of the present of invention: the technological process of production is: raw material choice---weaves---pre-treatment---dyeing---tentering oven dry---positive sanding---reverse side sanding---open-width typing---finished product.Wherein each technological parameter is:
1, raw material: 36 of employing 100%
SThe TK combed cotton wherein adds 10% grade and is 137 long-staple cotton.In 25 ℃ of temperature, humidity 655% environment, carried out warm and humid balance 24 hours.
2, weaving process:
Type: German two-sided Meyer west large circle machine
Barrel dliameter: 34 "
Plane No.: 28G
Product institutional framework: two-sided tissue
Loop length: the length of 50 coils is: 14.2cm/50w.
Blank grammes per square metre: 180g/m
2
3, pre-treatment process:
Reagent components comprises:
Precious (cotton) GO concentration: 1.5g/L in the bath
Bleeding agent: the plain NF 1.2g/L of flat horse
Hydrogen peroxide: 4g/L
Hydrogen peroxide stabilizer HG-A:2g/L
Chelating agent S:1.2g/L
Sheet alkali NAOH:3g/L
Qi Lilong F-OLB:2g/L
HAC：0.3g/L
4, dyeing:
Color: deep blue ash
Dyeing temperature 80 degree, 1.5 ℃/m of programming rate
The dyestuff component comprises:
COVAZOL-YELLOW：0.25g/L
COVAZOL-RED：0.11g/L
C-BLUE：2.5g/L
NA
2SO4：40g/L
NA
2CO
3：8g/L
NAOH：0.6g/L
Softener OH-600:? g/L
Color-fixing agent NFC:3g/L
5, soft treatment technology:
Cation amino modification softer consistency: 5%, bleeding agent: 1g/L.
6, tentering stoving process:
Drying parameter: temperature: 160 ℃
Air quantity: 1500rpm
The speed of a motor vehicle: 40m/m
Overfeeding: 20%
7, roughing process:
Type: daraf(reciprocal of farad) carbon element roughing-up machine:
Superficies sanding 4 times, speed of a motor vehicle 7m/s, tension force are 55Kg, the rotating speed 75% of bristle roller;
Nexine surface sanding 3 times, speed of a motor vehicle 9m/s, tension force are 50Kg, the rotating speed 85% of bristle roller.
8, open-width typing:
Temperature: 150 ℃
Air quantity: 1500m
3/ s
Overfeeding: 35%
The speed of a motor vehicle: 40m/m
The door width of cloth: 34 "/200cm
Finished product grammes per square metre: 230g/m
2
Use the two-sided peach face knitted fabric of cotton high-tenacity of the production method gained among the invention described above embodiment, adopt Japanese JSIL standard testing, its bursting strength reaches: 475KPa, washing shrinkage: directly to less than-5%, laterally less than-3%, positive and negative anti-fluffing and anti-pilling 3-4 level, pH value is 5.
Claims (10)
1. the two-sided peach face knitted fabric of cotton high-tenacity production method is characterized in that carrying out successively following operation:
1) raw material is prepared, and adopts the yarn count of cotton, and its number is 28
S～80
S, can mix long-staple cotton, its ratio is 10%～50%, will carry out warm and humid balance at least 24 hours in 23 ± 2 ℃ of temperature, humidity 65 ± 3% environment before the last machine;
2) knitting, use plane No. to be 22G～32G, its institutional framework is two-sided tissue, on the one side of two-sided tissue, be encased inside the yarn A of a napping during braiding, make yarn A and wire gauze B lopping simultaneously, feed the angle of regulating yarn feeding, yarn A is covered wire gauze B, the nexine surface that makes fabric is yarn A, and the density of debugging fabric, and the every Gram Mass that makes finished product is at 140g/m
2～350g/m
2, the count of finished product is 12～20 stringers/cm, the bursting strength of finished product blank reaches 400KPa at least;
3) check, pre-treatment;
4) dyeing, dyeing temperature is 60～90 ℃, programming rate is 1～3 ℃/m, and adds softener 5～15% simultaneously, color-fixing agent 2～5%;
5) soft treatment uses cation amino modification softener that described fabric is carried out soft treatment, and softener is that concentration is 3～8%, and adds the bleeding agent of 0.5～2g/L simultaneously;
6) stentering forming, with fabric dry, stentering forming, wherein bake out temperature is 150～170 ℃, air quantity is 1400～1600rpm, the speed of a motor vehicle is 30～50m/m, overfeeding is 10～30%;
7) napping is handled, and by roughing-up machine napping processing is carried out on fabric outer surface and nexine surface, and its superficies sanding is: napping 2～5 times, and the speed of a motor vehicle remains on 7～12m/s, and tension force is 35～60Kg; Nexine surface sanding is: napping 1-3 time, the speed of a motor vehicle remains on 8～14m/s, and tension force is 30～55Kg; The rotating speed of bristle roller: during the superficies napping 65～85%, during the napping of nexine surface 75～95%;
8) open-width typing, wherein bake out temperature is 130～170 ℃, and air quantity is 1400～1600rpm, and overfeeding is 25～45%, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 30～50m/m.
2. the two-sided peach face knitted fabric of cotton high-tenacity according to claim 1 production method, it is characterized in that in the knitting operation: during first via braiding, upper and lower low heel pin is eaten the yarn B of first yarn feeder simultaneously, use the second yarn feeder feeding yarn A simultaneously, regulate the angle of yarn A, make yarn A and yarn B in coverer lopping simultaneously, and make yarn A well cover yarn B, formed the surface of yarn A at fabric; During the second tunnel braiding, the yarn B that upper and lower high heel pin is eaten first yarn feeder simultaneously uses the second yarn feeder feeding yarn A simultaneously, regulate the angle of yarn A, make yarn A and yarn B in coverer lopping simultaneously, and make yarn A well cover yarn B, formed the surface of yarn A at fabric.
3. the two-sided peach face knitted fabric of cotton high-tenacity according to claim 1 production method, it is characterized in that: the pre-treatment reagent component comprises:
Precious (cotton) GO concentration: 0.5～5g/L in the bath
Plain NF:1～the 3g/L of the flat horse of bleeding agent
Hydrogen peroxide: 1～5g/L
Hydrogen peroxide stabilizer HG-A:1～2g/L
Chelating agent S:1～2g/L
Sheet alkali NAOH:1～5g/L.
4. the two-sided peach face knitted fabric of cotton high-tenacity according to claim 1 production method is characterized in that: stationary temperature is 60～67 degree during dyeing, and pH value is 10.5～11.8, use simultaneously and help guaranteeing that COLOR FASTNESS is good, and stable, be difficult for the compound alkali that look is spent, its component comprises:
NA
2SO
4：70～90g/L
NA
2CO
3：6～10g/L
NAOH：0.5～0.9g/L。
5. the two-sided peach face knitted fabric of cotton high-tenacity according to claim 1 production method is characterized in that: using cation amino modification softener in the described soft treatment is 5%; Bleeding agent is 1～2g/L.
6. the two-sided peach face knitted fabric of cotton high-tenacity according to claim 1 production method is characterized in that: the roughing-up machine during described napping is handled is to adopt daraf(reciprocal of farad) carbon element roughing-up machine.
7. the two-sided peach face knitted fabric of the resulting cotton high-tenacity of production method lining that utilizes claim 1, it is characterized in that: this lining adopts two-sided institutional framework, two one threads cover the other side's yarn mutually in its structure, each self-forming one deck all has the fabric face of positive coil distribution, and makes fabric outer surface and nexine surface respectively form the thin and close fine hair of layer of even by napping.
8. lining according to claim 7 is characterized in that: the yarn count composition of this facing fabric is a cotton, and number props up 28 at English
S～80
SScope in, every Gram Mass of finished product is at 140g/m
2～350g/m
2, the count of finished product is 12～20 stringers/cm, the finished product bursting strength is reached for 300Kpa.
9. according to claim 7 or 8 described linings, it is characterized in that: the superficies height of naps of this facing fabric is 0.1～0.8mm.
10. according to claim 7 or 8 described linings, it is characterized in that: the nexine surface height of naps of this facing fabric is 0.1～0.8mm.
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|---|---|---|---|
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