CN101109123A - Xiyurong clothing leather base cloth and manufacturing method therefor - Google Patents

Xiyurong clothing leather base cloth and manufacturing method therefor Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101109123A
CN101109123A CNA2007100094032A CN200710009403A CN101109123A CN 101109123 A CN101109123 A CN 101109123A CN A2007100094032 A CNA2007100094032 A CN A2007100094032A CN 200710009403 A CN200710009403 A CN 200710009403A CN 101109123 A CN101109123 A CN 101109123A
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clothing
leather
cloth
rich
dyeing
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CN100594267C (en
Inventor
汤树生
彭惠华
黄族健
张常芳
刘明旺
詹祖信
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Fujian Funeng Nanfang sanitary materials Co., Ltd
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FUJIAN NANFANG CO LTD
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Abstract

The invention provides a leather substrate for a fine eiderdown clothing and the making way for the leather substrate, which is made by interweaving warp and weft yarns. The warp is polynosic viscose rayon, the weft comprises novel polyester microfiber (33-37% by mass) and polynosic viscose rayon (63-67% by mass). The making way for the leather substrate comprises spinning, weaving, dyeing and leveling. The leather substrate is mainly for producing clothing leather. The clothing leather made of the leather substrate is soft, very like true leather, with fine texture, and small shrinkage. The leather substrate changes the idea for producing clothing leather in the past, improves such problems associated with the production of cloth leather substrate as liability to wrinkle, high shrinkage and poor strength, etc., can meet demands from different consumers in the change of clothing leather, and provide wider space for raw materials for the leather-making industry.

Description

Drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth and manufacture method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to textile field, relate in particular to a kind of drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth and manufacture method thereof
Background technology
Artificial synthetic leather be on base fabric coated with resins or dipping polyurethane resin again through arrangement later and make, the performance of leather base cloth has directly influenced the performance of artificial synthetic leather, and production technology, equipment and the quality level of therefore removing from office base cloth is the basis that guarantees the good sustainable development of artificial synthetic leather industry.Can mainly contain woven cloth, knitted cloth, non-weaving cloth and composite fabric four big classes as the material of artificial synthetic leather base cloth.Woven cloth is to be interweaved by the warp of mutual arranged vertical, weft yarn to make, and can be divided into plain cloth, TWILL CLOTH, SATIN AND SATEEN CLOTH and nap fabric four big classes.The employed raw material of woven cloth mainly contains cotton textiles, polyester-cotton blend and polyester-viscose blended yarn, and fabric has good DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, and consumption maximum in polyurethane artificial leather processing is mainly used in and produces footwear leather, fancy leather, clothing leather and luggage leather etc.
The production method of existing woven synthetic clothing leather foundation cloth is: mainly by cotton type polyester staple fiber of 1.4 dawn to 1.5 dawn, cotton, common viscose fiber is spun into warp thread and weft yarn through normal spinning process, produces clothing leather foundation cloth by bleachinging and dyeing with plucking, cropping after routine is weaved.The major defect that existing clothing leather foundation cloth product exists is that easy wrinkle, contraction are big, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, powerful poor, and the clothing leather lines of making is too thick, and fine and smooth inadequately, the skin sense is not strong.
Summary of the invention
For addressing the above problem, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a kind of manufacture method of drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth.
For achieving the above object, technical scheme of the present invention is:
A kind of drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth, this base cloth is interweaved by warp thread and weft yarn and forms, described warp thread is rich and powerful viscose, described weft yarn is made up of novel microdenier polyester fibers and rich and powerful viscose, the mass percent of novel microdenier polyester fibers is 33%-37%, and the mass percent of rich and powerful viscose is 63%-67%.
Described novel microdenier polyester fibers is 0.5-0.9d.
A kind of drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth manufacture method may further comprise the steps:
1) spinning process: warp thread is selected rich and powerful viscose for use, and weft yarn is selected novel thin dawn polyester fiber and rich and powerful viscose blended for use, selects rotor spinning technology for use;
2) knit portion's operation: warp thread adopts 19.5tex-28tex, weft yarn adopts 32tex-60tex, warp count is 220-250 root/10cm, weft count is 193-220 root/10cm, fabric width is 173-175cm, adopt plain weave, the warp-wise tightness is selected for use at 41-43%, and the broadwise tightness is selected for use at 46%-55%;
3) dyeing and finishing process: select for use the liquid starchy enzyme to carry out destarch; Select the dyeing of high strength 300% phoenix plumage sulphur black for use; The washing operation is selected the abundant washing of detergent and soda ash for use, the alkalescence of flush away cloth cover and loose colour; In the soft technology, handle with bleeding agent and fluffing softener; Adopt the oven dry of secondary drying method to dye base.
The mass percent of described novel microdenier polyester fibers is 33%-37%, and the mass percent of rich and powerful viscose is 63%-67%.
Described spinning process comprises the steps:
1) opening or cleaning;
2) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning: select Bearded-needle knitted cloth AC2515 for use, doff clothing AD4532, the taker-in clothing of flat-clothing MCZ H35 and AT5605, differential surface speed adopts 1.9-2.0;
3) drafting;
4) revolving cup spins: adopt band to bear the CM-2A combing roller card clothing at angle, and 8000 rev/mins of carding speeds, feed plate pressure 26.5 kgfs, relative humidity is between 62%-70%.
The described portion operation of knitting adopts ring temple, thorn is high select for use 0.4mm 0.6mm the coronule combination of 1.0mm.
Described dyeing and finishing process comprises the steps:
1) destarch, dye gigging select for use speed of a motor vehicle 95-100 rice/minute, tension force 5N, 85-90 ℃ of grey cloth last volume destarch temperature was with amylase destarch 42-48 minute;
2) dyeing, selecting 300% phoenix plumage sulphur black dyeing, 1 road charge temperature for use is that 40-50 ℃, 2 road charge temperatures are 90-95 ℃, dyes 42-48 minute;
3) washing earlier becomes washing liquid with efficient detergent and soda ash according to 6: 5 mixed, and per 5 kilograms of detergents add 200 kilograms in water, wash 2 roads with described washing liquid heat, and per pass 30-40 minute, temperature was 50-60 ℃;
4) softness becomes softener with bleeding agent 838 with the mixed of softener MF according to 4: 6 kilograms of fluffing earlier, carries out soft treatment 2 roads with described softener, and per pass 30-40 minute, temperature was 50-60 ℃;
5) oven dry is dyed base and is adopted secondary drying method technology;
6) plucking selects for use the napper card clothing to carry out plucking
Drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth of the present invention is mainly used in the production clothing leather, has advantages such as soft, that kishke feel is strong, lines is fine and smooth, contraction is little with the clothing leather of this drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth manufacturing.Drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth of the present invention has changed the thinking that the traditional dress leather is produced, improved in the clothing leather foundation cloth production problems such as easily wrinkling, shrink greatly, brute force is poor, can satisfy the demand that different consumers change clothing leather, for leather industry provides more wide raw material space.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1
A kind of drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth, this base cloth is interweaved by warp thread and weft yarn and forms, described warp thread is rich and powerful viscose, described weft yarn is made up of novel microdenier polyester fibers and rich and powerful viscose, the mass percent of novel microdenier polyester fibers is 35%, and the mass percent of rich and powerful viscose is 65%.
Embodiment 2
A kind of drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth, this base cloth is interweaved by warp thread and weft yarn and forms, described warp thread is rich and powerful viscose, described weft yarn is made up of novel microdenier polyester fibers and rich and powerful viscose, the mass percent of novel microdenier polyester fibers is 33%, and the mass percent of rich and powerful viscose is 67%.
Embodiment 3
A kind of drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth, this base cloth is interweaved by warp thread and weft yarn and forms, described warp thread is rich and powerful viscose, described weft yarn is made up of novel microdenier polyester fibers and rich and powerful viscose, the mass percent of novel microdenier polyester fibers is 37%, and the mass percent of rich and powerful viscose is 63%.
Embodiment 4
Embodiment 1 described drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth manufacture method comprises the steps:
1. spinning process: warp thread is selected rich and powerful viscose for use; Weft yarn is selected novel thin dawn polyester fiber and rich and powerful viscose blended for use, and the mass percent of this polyester fiber ratio is 35%, and the mass percent of rich and powerful viscose is 65%, selects rotor spinning technology for use.1) opening or cleaning: adopt many pines, many combs, few technological principle of beating, the griping cotton machine blade stretches out rib apart from using 2cm to increase shredding, the A036 rotating speed suitably reduces to reduce cycle, adopt 540 rev/mins, the hired roughneck adopts kirschner beater, increase the shredding degree, the comprehensive hired roughneck's speed of A076C is reduced to 900 rev/mins, and the lap roller rotating speed is 11 rev/mins.2) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning: for reducing the cotton knot in the process, consider the purposes and the Fabric Style of yarn, adopt and tightly space, the strong comb that divides, the fast transfer, quantitatively light, the low speed of a motor vehicle, the technological principle of small tension receiving coil is selected the thin of the negative dorsal horn of novel band for use, short, close, the Bearded-needle knitted cloth AC2515 of big operating angle increases tooth depth, the doff clothing AD4532 of tooth pitch and minimizing crown density, the taker-in clothing of flat-clothing MCZ H35 and AT5605, utilize thin, short, close, even Bearded-needle knitted cloth, tighten up and flat-clothing between space, increased fiber grips, and increases the number of teeth of in the unit interval fiber being carried out the branch comb, reinforcement is to the branch comb of fiber, strengthen cylinder licker-in differential surface speed, differential surface speed adopts 1.9, solves fiber and is difficult for easily producing in transfer and the production process cotton knot problem; 3) drafting: adopt the A272 type, before, during and after pressurization be respectively 20,30,22dan, quantitatively head also, two and adopt/5 meters of 18 grams, the end also restrains/5 meters with 15, space and be amplified to 20mm in the back zone, the speed of a motor vehicle adopts 1600 rev/mins, utilize three roads to mix, distribute, improve the straightening of fibers depth of parallelism with reasonable drawing-off, solve fine count fiber because specific area is big, friction is difficult for the problem of drawing-off greatly; 4) revolving cup spins: adopt band to bear the CM-2A combing roller card clothing at angle, reinforcing fibre shifts, adopt suitable carding speed, 8000 rev/mins, reduce fibre damage, feed plate pressure 26.5 kgfs, enhancing is strengthened Temperature and Humidity Control, relative humidity 62% to the control of fiber, the passage of guaranteeing to spin is bright and clean, solves the problem that viscose glue and fine count fiber blending easily produce wool yarn.
Knit portion's operation: warp thread adopts 19.5tex, and weft yarn adopts 32tex, through close be 250/10cm, filling density is 220/10cm, fabric width is 175cm, adopts plain weave, the warp-wise tightness is selected for use 41%, the broadwise tightness is selected for use in 46%.Temple adopts ring temple, thorn is high select for use 0.4mm 0.6mm the coronule combination of 1.0mm, in air-jet loom top tissue employing plain weave, the limit heald is whenever combined and is worn one, every reed adopts the method for 42424242 the method for wearing, and has stopped the quality problems of selvedge off-clip, has guaranteed fabric quality.
Dyeing and finishing process: 1) destarch, 95 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle are selected in dye gigging for use, optimum tension 5N, 85 ℃ of grey cloth last volume destarch temperature, with high-temperature starch enzyme desizing 45 minutes, for improving the output capacity of product, selecting for use in the market preferably, the liquid starchy enzyme carried out destarch, can guarantee fabric strength on the one hand, can make fabrics feel soft plentiful on the other hand; 2) dyeing, owing to be furnished with a certain proportion of thin dawn polyester fiber fineness (0.6-0.9d) on the fabric weft yarn, be difficult to reach customer requirement with common sulphur black, through preferred, select the dyeing of high strength 300% phoenix plumage sulphur black for use, 1 road charge temperature is 40 ℃, 2 road charge temperatures are 90 ℃, dyeed 45 minutes, and dyed the back fabric slightly redly, and pitch-black shinny; 3) washing, owing to use sulfur dyeing, the akali sulphide consumption is big, the fabric alkalescence of dyeing is strong, does not clean if do not carry out abundant clear water, can influence fabric feeling, therefore, 9216 kilograms of efficient detergents and soda ash are mixed and made into remover for 5 kilograms, add 440 kg of water, carry out heat and wash two roads, temperature is 50 ℃, per pass 35 minutes, fully the alkalescence and the loose colour of washing flush away cloth cover improve fabric feeling and COLOR FASTNESS; 4) softness, after 838 4 kilograms of bleeding agents and 6 kilograms of mixing of fluffing softener MF, carry out soft treatment 2 roads, temperature is 50 ℃, per pass 35 minutes, the permeability of raising fabric, the reinforced fiber feel, help pulling out short close even fine hair, thereby make the clothing leather lines exquisiteness of making clear, kishke feel is strong; 5) oven dry is soft for the reinforced fiber softness, dyes base and adopts secondary drying method technology; 6) plucking selects for use the Far East, novel Shanghai 2832 napper card clothing to carry out plucking, improves the uniformity of fine hair richness and fine hair.
Weft yarn is selected novel microdenier polyester fibers for use, has guaranteed the soft fine and smooth feature of base cloth, guarantees that capillary effect and moisture absorption requirement can reduce the production difficulty again, mixes capillary effect and moisture absorption requirement that the rich and powerful viscose of certain proportion guarantees to remove from office base cloth simultaneously.
In order to improve the resultant yarn outward appearance, reduce cotton knot, select rotor spinning technology for use, utilize rotor spinning machine combing roller combing effect, remove the part cotton knot, the cloth softness of utilizing the relative ring spinning of rotor spinning to be made into simultaneously can embody the characteristic of tencel better.
Embodiment 5
Embodiment 2 described drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth manufacture methods comprise the steps:
1. spinning process: warp thread is selected rich and powerful viscose for use; Weft yarn is selected novel thin dawn polyester fiber and rich and powerful viscose blended for use, and the mass percent of this polyester fiber ratio is 33%, and the mass percent of rich and powerful viscose is 67%, selects rotor spinning technology for use.1) opening or cleaning: adopt many pines, many combs, few technological principle of beating, the griping cotton machine blade stretches out rib apart from clever to increase shredding with 2, the A036 rotating speed suitably reduces to reduce cycle, adopt 540 rev/mins, the hired roughneck adopts kirschner beater, increase the shredding degree, the comprehensive hired roughneck's speed of A076C is reduced to 900 rev/mins, and the lap roller rotating speed is 11 rev/mins.2) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning: for reducing the cotton knot in the process, consider the purposes and the Fabric Style of yarn, adopt and tightly space, the strong comb that divides, the fast transfer, quantitatively light, the low speed of a motor vehicle, the technological principle of small tension receiving coil is selected the thin of the negative dorsal horn of novel band for use, short, close, the Bearded-needle knitted cloth AC2515 of big operating angle increases tooth depth, the doff clothing AD4532 of tooth pitch and minimizing crown density, the taker-in clothing of flat-clothing MCZ H35 and AT5605, utilize thin, short, close, even Bearded-needle knitted cloth, tighten up and flat-clothing between space, increased fiber grips, and increases the number of teeth of in the unit interval fiber being carried out the branch comb, reinforcement is to the branch comb of fiber, strengthen cylinder licker-in differential surface speed, differential surface speed adopts 2.0, solves fiber and is difficult for easily producing in transfer and the production process cotton knot problem; 3) drafting: adopt the A272 type, before, during and after pressurization be respectively 20,30,22dan, quantitatively head also, two and adopt/5 meters of 18 grams, the end also restrains/5 meters with 15, space and be amplified to 22mm in the back zone, the speed of a motor vehicle adopts 1600 rev/mins, utilize three roads to mix, distribute, improve the straightening of fibers depth of parallelism with reasonable drawing-off, solve fine count fiber because specific area is big, friction is difficult for the problem of drawing-off greatly; 4) revolving cup spins: adopt band to bear the CM-2A combing roller card clothing at angle, reinforcing fibre shifts, adopt suitable carding speed, 8000 rev/mins, reduce fibre damage, feed plate pressure 26.5 kgfs, enhancing is strengthened Temperature and Humidity Control, relative humidity 70% to the control of fiber, the passage of guaranteeing to spin is bright and clean, solves the problem that viscose glue and fine count fiber blending easily produce wool yarn.
Knit portion's operation: warp thread adopts 28tex, and weft yarn adopts 60tex, through close be 220/10cm, filling density is 193/10cm, fabric width is 173cm, adopts plain weave, the warp-wise tightness is selected for use 43%, the broadwise tightness is selected for use in 55%.Temple adopts ring temple, thorn is high select for use 0.4mm 0.6mm the coronule combination of 1.0mm, in air-jet loom top tissue employing plain weave, the limit heald is whenever combined and is worn one, every reed adopts the method for 42424242 the method for wearing, and has stopped the quality problems of selvedge off-clip, has guaranteed fabric quality.
Dyeing and finishing process: 1) destarch, 100 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle are selected in dye gigging for use, optimum tension 5N, 90 ℃ of grey cloth last volume destarch temperature, with high-temperature starch enzyme desizing 48 minutes, for improving the output capacity of product, selecting for use in the market preferably, the liquid starchy enzyme carried out destarch, can guarantee fabric strength on the one hand, can make fabrics feel soft plentiful on the other hand; 2) dyeing, owing to be furnished with a certain proportion of thin dawn polyester fiber fineness (0.6-0.9d) on the fabric weft yarn, be difficult to reach customer requirement with common sulphur black, through preferred, select the dyeing of high strength 300% phoenix plumage sulphur black for use, 1 road charge temperature is 50 ℃, 2 road charge temperatures are 95 ℃, dyeed 48 minutes, and dyed the back fabric slightly redly, and pitch-black shinny; 3) washing, owing to use sulfur dyeing, the akali sulphide consumption is big, the fabric alkalescence of dyeing is strong, does not clean if do not carry out abundant clear water, can influence fabric feeling, therefore, 921 6 kilograms of efficient detergents and soda ash are mixed and made into remover for 5 kilograms, add 440 kg of water, carry out heat and wash two roads, temperature is 60 ℃, per pass 30 minutes, fully the alkalescence and the loose colour of washing flush away cloth cover improve fabric feeling and COLOR FASTNESS; 4) softness, after 838 4 kilograms of bleeding agents and 6 kilograms of mixing of fluffing softener MF, carry out soft treatment 2 roads, temperature is 60 ℃, per pass 30 minutes, the permeability of raising fabric, the reinforced fiber feel, help pulling out short close even fine hair, thereby make the clothing leather lines exquisiteness of making clear, kishke feel is strong; 5) oven dry is soft for the reinforced fiber softness, dyes base and adopts secondary drying method technology; 6) plucking selects for use the Far East, novel Shanghai 2832 napper card clothing to carry out plucking, improves the uniformity of fine hair richness and fine hair.
Embodiment 6
Embodiment 3 described drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth manufacture methods comprise the steps:
1. spinning process: warp thread is selected rich and powerful viscose for use; Weft yarn is selected novel thin dawn polyester fiber and rich and powerful viscose blended for use, and the mass percent of this polyester fiber ratio is 37%, and the mass percent of rich and powerful viscose is 63%, selects rotor spinning technology for use.1) opening or cleaning: adopt many pines, many combs, few technological principle of beating, the griping cotton machine blade stretches out rib apart from clever to increase shredding with 2, the A036 rotating speed suitably reduces to reduce cycle, adopt 540 rev/mins, the hired roughneck adopts kirschner beater, increase the shredding degree, the comprehensive hired roughneck's speed of A076C is reduced to 900 rev/mins, and the lap roller rotating speed is 11 rev/mins.2) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning: for reducing the cotton knot in the process, consider the purposes and the Fabric Style of yarn, adopt and tightly space, the strong comb that divides, the fast transfer, quantitatively light, the low speed of a motor vehicle, the technological principle of small tension receiving coil is selected the thin of the negative dorsal horn of novel band for use, short, close, the Bearded-needle knitted cloth AC2515 of big operating angle increases tooth depth, the doff clothing AD4532 of tooth pitch and minimizing crown density, the taker-in clothing of flat-clothing MCZ H35 and AT5605, utilize thin, short, close, even Bearded-needle knitted cloth, tighten up and flat-clothing between space, increased fiber grips, and increases the number of teeth of in the unit interval fiber being carried out the branch comb, reinforcement is to the branch comb of fiber, strengthen cylinder licker-in differential surface speed, differential surface speed adopts 2.0, solves fiber and is difficult for easily producing in transfer and the production process cotton knot problem; 3) drafting: adopt the A272 type, before, during and after pressurization be respectively 20,30,22dan, quantitatively head also, two and adopt/5 meters of 18 grams, the end also restrains/5 meters with 15, space and be amplified to 21mm in the back zone, the speed of a motor vehicle adopts 1600 rev/mins, utilize three roads to mix, distribute, improve the straightening of fibers depth of parallelism with reasonable drawing-off, solve fine count fiber because specific area is big, friction is difficult for the problem of drawing-off greatly; 4) revolving cup spins: adopt band to bear the CM-2A combing roller card clothing at angle, reinforcing fibre shifts, adopt suitable carding speed, 8000 rev/mins, reduce fibre damage, feed plate pressure 26.5 kgfs, enhancing is strengthened Temperature and Humidity Control, relative humidity 66% to the control of fiber, the passage of guaranteeing to spin is bright and clean, solves the problem that viscose glue and fine count fiber blending easily produce wool yarn.
Knit portion's operation: warp thread adopts 24tex, and weft yarn adopts 46tex, through close be 230/10cm, filling density is 205/10cm, fabric width is 174cm, adopts plain weave, the warp-wise tightness is selected for use 42%, the broadwise tightness is selected for use in 51%.Temple adopts ring temple, thorn is high select for use 0.4mm 0.6mm the coronule combination of 1.0mm, in air-jet loom top tissue employing plain weave, the limit heald is whenever combined and is worn one, every reed adopts the method for 42424242 the method for wearing, and has stopped the quality problems of selvedge off-clip, has guaranteed fabric quality.
Dyeing and finishing process: 1) destarch, 97 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle are selected in dye gigging for use, optimum tension 5N, 87 ℃ of grey cloth last volume destarch temperature, with high-temperature starch enzyme desizing 42 minutes, for improving the output capacity of product, selecting for use in the market preferably, the liquid starchy enzyme carried out destarch, can guarantee fabric strength on the one hand, can make fabrics feel soft plentiful on the other hand; 2) dyeing, owing to be furnished with a certain proportion of thin dawn polyester fiber fineness (0.6-0.9d) on the fabric weft yarn, be difficult to reach customer requirement with common sulphur black, through preferred, select the dyeing of high strength 300% phoenix plumage sulphur black for use, 1 road charge temperature is 45 ℃, 2 road charge temperatures are 93 ℃, dyeed 42 minutes, and dyed the back fabric slightly redly, and pitch-black shinny; 3) washing, owing to use sulfur dyeing, the akali sulphide consumption is big, the fabric alkalescence of dyeing is strong, does not clean if do not carry out abundant clear water, can influence fabric feeling, therefore, 921 6 kilograms of efficient detergents and soda ash are mixed and made into remover for 5 kilograms, add 440 kg of water, carry out heat and wash two roads, temperature is 55 ℃, per pass 40 minutes, fully the alkalescence and the loose colour of washing flush away cloth cover improve fabric feeling and COLOR FASTNESS; 4) softness, after 838 4 kilograms of bleeding agents and 6 kilograms of mixing of fluffing softener MF, carry out soft treatment 2 roads, temperature is 55 ℃, per pass 40 minutes, the permeability of raising fabric, the reinforced fiber feel, help pulling out short close even fine hair, thereby make the clothing leather lines exquisiteness of making clear, kishke feel is strong; 5) oven dry is soft for the reinforced fiber softness, dyes base and adopts secondary drying method technology; 6) plucking selects for use the Far East, novel Shanghai 2832 napper card clothing to carry out plucking, improves the uniformity of fine hair richness and fine hair.

Claims (6)

1. drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth, it is characterized in that: this base cloth is interweaved by warp thread and weft yarn and forms, described warp thread is rich and powerful viscose, described weft yarn is made up of novel microdenier polyester fibers and rich and powerful viscose, described novel microdenier polyester fibers is 0.5-0.9d, the mass percent of novel microdenier polyester fibers is 33%-37%, and the mass percent of rich and powerful viscose is 63%-67%.
2. drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth manufacture method is characterized in that may further comprise the steps:
1) spinning process: warp thread is selected rich and powerful viscose for use, and weft yarn is selected novel thin dawn polyester fiber and rich and powerful viscose blended for use, selects rotor spinning technology for use;
2) knit portion's operation: warp thread adopts 19.5tex-28tex, weft yarn adopts 32tex-60tex, warp count is 220-250 root/10cm, weft count is 193-220 root/10cm, fabric width is 173-175cm, adopt plain weave, the warp-wise tightness is selected for use at 41-43%, and the broadwise tightness is selected for use at 46%-55%;
3) dyeing and finishing process: select for use the liquid starchy enzyme to carry out destarch; Select the dyeing of high strength 300% phoenix plumage sulphur black for use; The washing operation is selected the abundant washing of detergent and soda ash for use, the alkalescence of flush away cloth cover and loose colour; In the soft technology, handle with bleeding agent and fluffing softener; Adopt the oven dry of secondary drying method to dye base.
3. drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth manufacture method according to claim 2, it is characterized in that: the mass percent of novel microdenier polyester fibers is 33%-37%, the mass percent of rich and powerful viscose is 63%-67%.
4. drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth manufacture method according to claim 2, it is characterized in that: described spinning process comprises the steps:
1) opening or cleaning;
2) comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning: select Bearded-needle knitted cloth AC2515 for use, doff clothing AD4532, the taker-in clothing of flat-clothing MCZ H35 and AT5605, differential surface speed adopts 1.9 to 2.0;
3) drafting;
4) revolving cup spins: adopt band to bear the CM-2A combing roller card clothing at angle, and 8000 rev/mins of carding speeds, feed plate pressure 26.5 kgfs, relative humidity is between 62%-70%.
5. drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth manufacture method according to claim 2 is characterized in that: the described portion operation of knitting adopts ring temple, thorn is high select for use 0.4mm 0.6mm the coronule combination of 1.0mm.
6. drizzle suede clothing leather foundation cloth manufacture method according to claim 2, it is characterized in that: described dyeing and finishing process comprises the steps:
1) destarch, dye gigging select for use speed of a motor vehicle 95-100 rice/minute, tension force 5N, 85 to 90 ℃ of grey cloth last volume destarch temperature were with amylase destarch 42-48 minute;
2) dyeing, selecting 300% phoenix plumage sulphur black dyeing, 1 road charge temperature for use is that 40-50 ℃, 2 road charge temperatures are 90-95 ℃, dyes 42-48 minute;
3) washing earlier becomes washing liquid with efficient detergent and soda ash according to 6: 5 mixed, and per 5 kilograms of detergents add 200 kilograms in water, wash 2 roads with described washing liquid heat, and per pass 30-40 minute, temperature was 50-60 ℃;
4) softness becomes softener with bleeding agent 838 with the mixed of softener MF according to 4: 6 of fluffing earlier, carries out soft treatment 2 roads with described softener, and per pass 30-40 minute, temperature was 50-60 ℃;
5) oven dry is dyed base and is adopted secondary drying method technology;
6) plucking selects for use the napper card clothing to carry out plucking.
CN200710009403A 2007-08-27 2007-08-27 Xiyurong clothing leather base cloth manufacturing method Active CN100594267C (en)

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CN102228317A (en) * 2011-05-26 2011-11-02 科德宝宝翎衬布(南通)有限公司 Modified polyester and environmental-friendly fiber interwoven lining cloth and production method thereof
CN103192568A (en) * 2013-04-02 2013-07-10 福建鑫华股份有限公司 High-performance uniform leather base fabric
CN103215820A (en) * 2013-04-18 2013-07-24 北京富泰革基布股份有限公司 Method for performing dyeing by utilizing glucose generated by enzymolysis
CN103526403A (en) * 2013-10-21 2014-01-22 淮安富泰革基布有限公司 High wet modulus viscose fiber leather base cloth and production process thereof
CN103590170A (en) * 2013-11-21 2014-02-19 苏州工业园区友顺制衣厂 Scratching-resisting wearing-resisting sofa fabrics
CN104074059A (en) * 2014-06-23 2014-10-01 北京富泰革基布股份有限公司 Water-saving dyeing method for leather base cloth
CN105734778A (en) * 2016-03-03 2016-07-06 福建南纺有限责任公司 Manufacture method for ultrathin embossed clothing leather base cloth
CN107805908A (en) * 2017-09-28 2018-03-16 浙江同辉纺织股份有限公司 A kind of super soft suede production technology of vertical silk

Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102228317A (en) * 2011-05-26 2011-11-02 科德宝宝翎衬布(南通)有限公司 Modified polyester and environmental-friendly fiber interwoven lining cloth and production method thereof
CN103192568A (en) * 2013-04-02 2013-07-10 福建鑫华股份有限公司 High-performance uniform leather base fabric
CN103192568B (en) * 2013-04-02 2015-06-10 福建鑫华股份有限公司 High-performance uniform leather base fabric
CN103215820A (en) * 2013-04-18 2013-07-24 北京富泰革基布股份有限公司 Method for performing dyeing by utilizing glucose generated by enzymolysis
CN103215820B (en) * 2013-04-18 2015-05-13 北京富泰革基布股份有限公司 Method for performing dyeing by utilizing glucose generated by enzymolysis
CN103526403A (en) * 2013-10-21 2014-01-22 淮安富泰革基布有限公司 High wet modulus viscose fiber leather base cloth and production process thereof
CN103590170A (en) * 2013-11-21 2014-02-19 苏州工业园区友顺制衣厂 Scratching-resisting wearing-resisting sofa fabrics
CN104074059A (en) * 2014-06-23 2014-10-01 北京富泰革基布股份有限公司 Water-saving dyeing method for leather base cloth
CN104074059B (en) * 2014-06-23 2016-06-22 北京富泰革基布股份有限公司 A kind of leather base cloth water saving colouring method
CN105734778A (en) * 2016-03-03 2016-07-06 福建南纺有限责任公司 Manufacture method for ultrathin embossed clothing leather base cloth
CN107805908A (en) * 2017-09-28 2018-03-16 浙江同辉纺织股份有限公司 A kind of super soft suede production technology of vertical silk

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