CN105734778A - Manufacture method for ultrathin embossed clothing leather base cloth - Google Patents
Manufacture method for ultrathin embossed clothing leather base cloth Download PDFInfo
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- CN105734778A CN105734778A CN201610118200.6A CN201610118200A CN105734778A CN 105734778 A CN105734778 A CN 105734778A CN 201610118200 A CN201610118200 A CN 201610118200A CN 105734778 A CN105734778 A CN 105734778A
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- yarn
- ultrathin
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/32—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of open-width materials backwards and forwards between beaming rollers during treatment; Jiggers
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
A manufacture method for ultrathin embossed clothing leather base cloth comprises the following steps of 1, a spinning process, wherein 1.33 dtex*38 mm viscose is selected as main fibers of warp and weft, 1.2 dtex*38 mm Supercool fibers and 1.67 dtex*38 mm Tencel fibers are selected as auxiliary fibers of the warp and the weft, plied yarn or single yarn is adopted, the warp yarn count is between 32 S and 60 S, the weft yarn count is between 32 S and 60 S, and fiber carding, pre-combination, yarn hairiness treatment and splicing are conducted; 2, a weaving process, wherein sizing and weaving are conducted; 3, a dyeing and finishing process, wherein desizing, dyeing and softening are conducted, and in the aftertreatment process, galling, shearing and expansion are combined, and the capillary effect is controlled at 2.0-4.5 cm/5 min. The produced ultrathin embossed product is smooth in cloth cover, uniform in hair density, soft in hand feel and good in drapability, has the characteristics of damp absorption and air permeation, and meets the production requirement for the high-grade ultrathin embossed clothing leather base cloth.
Description
[technical field]
The present invention relates to field of fabric producing technology, particularly relate to the system of a kind of ultrathin embossing clothing leather foundation cloth
Make method.
[background technology]
Natural leather is widely used in production article of everyday use and industry owing to having excellent natural characteristic by people
Product, but along with the growth of world population, the demand of leather is doubled by the mankind, a limited number of natural leathers
This demand of people can not be met already.
PU artificial leather is exactly to be the artificial leather of raw material production with PU resin, the appearance of the artificial synthetic leather of PU
Just compensate for the deficiency of natural leather.The feature of PU artificial synthetic leather is that outward appearance is beautiful, price is relatively low, light
Soft, wear-resisting, warming, feel is not affected by cold and Warm Changes in Northern.PU artificial synthetic leather is just moderate with it,
The advantages such as high physical property, multifunctionality, eco-environmental prote, account in artificial leather synthetic leather Downstream Market is applied
Some shares step up, and progressively substitute PVC artificial leather and natural leather article.And China is by " polychlorostyrene
The common artificial leather production line of ethylene " list restricted development projects, European Union, the green of Japan and other countries in
Barrier also significantly limit the consumption of PVC artificial leather.
Synthetic leather base cloth belongs to the intermediate products of weaving synthetic leather, has four big series products at present, clothing leather foundation cloth,
Sofa artificial leather base fabric, footwear leather base cloth, decoration leather base fabric.Clothing leather foundation cloth is wide with production capacity high purposes, demand
Occupying ratio on synthetic leather market reaches about 40% greatly, but is as clothing leather market production capacity year by year
Be incremented by synthetic leather producer to the updating and upgrading of a product require, more and more higher to the performance of clothing leather foundation cloth product,
Clothing leather foundation cloth product carries out product development towards the requirement of wearability ultrathin, good.
[summary of the invention]
The technical problem to be solved is to provide the manufacture of a kind of ultrathin embossing clothing leather foundation cloth
Method, the super-thin crush product cloth cover of production is smooth, cashmere density is uniform, soft, drapability good,
And there is the characteristic that moisture absorption is ventilative, meet high-grade ultrathin embossing clothing leather foundation cloth production requirement.
The present invention is achieved in that
The manufacture method of a kind of ultrathin embossing clothing leather foundation cloth, comprises the following steps:
(1) spinning process:
Raw material select: warp thread and weft yarn all select 1.33dtex*38mm viscose rayon be principal fibers,
1.2dtex*38mm Supercool fiber and 1.67dtex*38mm Tencel fiber are auxiliary fiber；Yarn is adopted
By strand or single thread form；Warp thread yarn count selects 32S-60S, and weft yarn yarn count selects scope between 32S-60S；
Fiber combing: select card wire type hired roughneck at opener, strengthens flexible opening or cleaning, selects at carding step
Fall junction type pin cloth, rear portion install precarding board additional to increase combing point, and cylinder and licker-in use large speed ratio, general
Deflector spaces with arc and reduces；Warp count control 56-90 root/cun, weft count controls
43-88 root/cun between scope；
Pre-the most also: use on drawing frame principal fibers and auxiliary fiber carry out by a certain percentage pre-also, use pre-the most also
Bar and viscose glue carded sliver twice are also closed；
Resultant yarn filoplume: on fly frame, uses hightension, big twist spinning technique, and reduces back zone
Drafting multiple, changes resultant yarn filoplume and irregular；
Splicing: on winder, maximum is spliced tension force 13N, and minimum is spliced tension force 8N, adjusts Balance Air
Cylinder pressure, it is ensured that success of once splicing is good with molding；
(2) weaving process:
Sizing: select water-repellent slurry 10Kg, polyester pulp 20Kg hybrid modulation, boil at full-automatic high-pressure
Slurry bucket is sized mixing；
Weave cotton cloth: use left twill tissue, employing air-jet loom weaving once in plain weave or two；
(3) dyeing and finishing process:
Move back and boil: use high temperature enzyme and refine enzyme to carry out compounding desizing on dye vat machine, reach to increase feel and
Soft purpose；
Dyeing: use high-performance frequency conversion dye jigger high-temperature pressure dyeing or room temperature dyeing；
Soft: hydrophilic people cotton softener B L802 is as auxiliary agent, for dye vat machine and dehydrator in employing；
Aftertreatment technology: using plucking, cropping, expanding to combine, capillary effect controls
2.0-4.5cm/5min；The THICKNESS CONTROL of leather base cloth in 0.10-0.25mm scope, inherent quality index through/
Latitude strength reaches more than 120N/30*200mm, average tear strengths requirement controls at 15N/30*200mm
Above.
Further, described in splice step, during winder is spliced, dispel time, length of splicing
It is respectively 2 milliseconds, 7 millimeters, 5 milliseconds with twisting time technological parameter.
Further, described in weave cotton cloth in step, on air-jet loom side shoring device, temple coronule is 30 rings,
Temple thorn is 0.8,0.6,0.4, the double acupuncture of 0.2mm, its install be respectively 5 rings, 5 rings, 10 rings,
10 rings；On loom, split span of control is at 172-183cm.
It is an advantage of the current invention that: the present invention controls from the selection of raw material, yarn qualities, fabric construction
Design, the control of dyeing and finishing process product quality, THICKNESS CONTROL is in 0.10-0.25mm scope, inherent quality
Index warp/latitude strength reaches more than 120N/30*200mm, average tear strengths requirement controls
More than 15N/30*200mm, appearance requirement cloth cover is smooth bright and clean.Super-thin crush clothing leather foundation cloth of the present invention
Realize the sucting wet air permeability of collection tool natural leather, the softness that is smooth to the touch, the feature such as nice and cool.
[detailed description of the invention]
A kind of manufacture method of ultrathin embossing clothing leather foundation cloth, its material specification be warp thread and weft yarn all
By principal fibers 1.33dtex*38mm viscose rayon, auxiliary fiber 1.2dtex*38mmSupercool fiber and
1.67dtex*38mm Tencel fiber forms, and Tencel fiber, Supercool fiber respectively account for 10%～20%
Composition.1.33dtex*38mm viscose rayon is compared with 1.56～the same line-transect of 1.67dtex*38mm viscose rayon
Under density case, number of fiber is many, and yarn strength is big, and feel is the most relatively soft.1.2dtex*38mm
The cross hygroscopic fibre that cotton supercool is common than on market, feel is more soft, moisture absorption,
Faster, and tencel fiber has a highest rigidity to Fast curing, good washing dimensional stability, tool
Having higher hygroscopicity, fiber gloss is graceful, and soft, drapability is good, and elegant property is good, by place
Unique peach face style, good spinnability can be obtained after reason, be suitable to weave zephyr.
Warp thread yarn count selects 32S-100S, and weft yarn yarn count selects scope between 32S/2-100S, warp count
Control 56-90 root/cun, weft count control 43-88 root/cun between scope, reach client to product
The requirements such as feel and cashmere density, thickness, contraction.
Fiber combing makees usefulness for raising fibre carder on spinning process, it is to avoid forms fault, makes system
The ribbon weight become is uniform, and fiber is sufficiently separated and reduces the damage of fiber, selects card wire at opener
Type hired roughneck, strengthens flexible opening or cleaning, selects novel fall junction type pin cloth, rear portion to install pre-point of comb additional at carding step
Plate is to increase combing point, and cylinder uses large speed ratio with licker-in, is spaced with arc by deflector and reduces.
For reach pre-and effect, each composition degree of being mixed evenly must be guaranteed, mixing in doubling step microcomponents use
Principal fibers and auxiliary fiber carry out by a certain percentage pre-also, because viscose rayon strength is the most relatively low for avoiding ripe bar the most rotten,
Use pre-drawing and viscose glue carded sliver twice and close.Using along drawing-off mode, head is also used instead 8 by former 7
And close, drafting multiple is 7.69 times, two and drafting multiple changed into 8.97 by 8.81, beneficially drawn sliver regularity
The neat and well spaced raising with yarn strength.
For changing resultant yarn filoplume and irregular, fly frame uses the spinning technique such as hightension, the big twist,
And suitably reduce back zone drafting multiple, more preferably control resultant yarn filoplume and irregular.
During winder is spliced, for reducing by hundred broken ends, according to the many components of resultant yarn, especially tencel becomes
Part is spliced difficulty, for controlling resultant yarn filoplume and stable spinning yarn quality, improves the production efficiency of rear operation,
In turn ensure that appearance of fabrics transitivity index reaches customer requirement, during winder is spliced, at SAVIO
On ESPERO-M automatic bobbin winder, parameter of splicing is by original 3 milliseconds, and 6 millimeters, 10 milliseconds change into
2 milliseconds, 7 millimeters, 5 milliseconds, will dispel the yarn tail time (untwisting time) reduces by 1 millisecond, loose thread
The yarn tail lap of splice lengthens 1 millimeter and twisting time and reduces 5 milliseconds, and maximum is spliced tension force 13N, minimum
Splice a 8N, and balance cylinder pressure is adjusted to 2.7 millibars, it is ensured that success of once splicing is good with molding.
Concrete, on sizing processing parameter, the formula of slurry uses new hydrophobic slurry, polyester
Slurry is attached most importance to, with special synthetic polymer and senior carboxylate hybrid modulation, at full-automatic high-pressure mashing off
Bucket is sized mixing, owing to being entirely free of PVA, non-foaming in sizing process, do not tie laitance coating, decreases
Light sizing, the generation of slime spots fault, after warp sizing, dry leasing is easy, and dividing sinker performance is good, advantageously reduces
The regeneration filoplume caused is torn, most importantly: after without PVA to dyeing and finishing because of yarn during leasing
The benefit that processing is brought is the most directly perceived.First desizing becomes easy, uses the hot water of about 90 DEG C with regard to energy
The impurity of the most of slurry of eccysis, then with amylase desizing agent and concise penetrating agent reinforcement, can obtain
Satisfactory result, furthermore the biodegradability of desizing waste liquid is good, and pollution-free, waste liquid BOD, COD value are equal
Reach discharging standards, protect the earth environment that we depend on for existence.Technical recipe is shown in Table 1.
Table 1:
The reasonability of sizing procedure technology parameter, can effectively reduce beam of a loom and twist head, bull, fall disconnected
The sizing faults such as head, slime spots, improve beam of a loom quality.Select winding tension 500N, regain 9.5-10.5%,
Rate of sizing 4.5-5.5%, the rate of stretching 35.5% that subtracts, enhancing rate 28.9%, speed 50-55m/min.
Split span of control refers on the premise of meeting customer need, and fabric split span of control exists
172-183cm。
On the premise of meeting customer need, fabric tissue uses in plain weave or two left twill group once
Knit, use air-jet loom weaving.
Warp line technique, back rest 100mm × 6 lattice selected by air-jet loom；Warp stop frame front and back position is
120mm × 9 lattice, high and low position is 100mm × 3 lattice, so, makes rear fell partial-length reduce, opens
Mouth becomes apparent from, and wefting insertion is the most smooth and easy, and cracked ends stops platform and makes moderate progress；Selection is pressed main in major-minor jet
Jet pressure: 0.20MPa-0.30MPa, auxiliary nozzle air pressure: 0.30Mpa-0.35Mpa, normal jet pressure 0.1Mpa,
Reduce disconnected double weft fault.On air-jet loom side shoring device, for reducing temple mark and off-clip phenomenon, make selvedge
Can draw, the motion stabilization of cloth, improve the technique on side shoring device, temple coronule is by 48 rings
Change 30 rings into, temple thorn 0.6, the single acupuncture of 0.8mm change 0.8 into, 0.6,0.4,0.2mm double-row needle
Thorn, its installation is respectively 5 rings, 5 rings, 10 rings, 10 rings.
Move back that to boil be to use high temperature enzyme and refine enzyme to carry out compounding desizing on dye vat machine, select and starch is produced
The enzyme of catalytic action carries out desizing, this desizing have safety, biodegradable, to environment
Harmless, effective without fibre damage, desizing, water consumes less, easily to clean be the important development of pretreatment technology
Direction, reaches to increase feel and soft purpose,
Use novel auxiliary agent at dye vat machine and dehydrator, improve fabric property, select permeability fabulous
Use hydrophilic people cotton softener B L802 as auxiliary agent, solve thoroughly to starch problem, and its flexibility and whole
Reason effect durability preferably improves final clothing leather leather goods production efficiency.
Plucking, cropping, expanding is used to combine Technology at dyeing and finishing aftertreatment technology, in plucking napping
Use first light after weighing method, the fine hair so risen is more abundant uniformly, in order to ensure product fine hair table after napping
Face length is short unanimously, adjusts cropping three cutter and spaces and carry out cropping, makes wool on surface of fabric even uniform, long
Degree is unified, and tension force should suitably tune up, and has and is beneficial to fluffing, and concrete, capillary effect controls
2.0-4.5cm/5min, leather base cloth THICKNESS CONTROL in 0.10-0.25mm scope, meet market have ultra-thin,
Good taking, inherent quality index warp/latitude strength reaches more than 120N/30*200mm, average tear
Requirement of strength controls at more than 15N/30*200mm.
The present invention is from the selection of raw material, yarn qualities control, the design of fabric construction, dyeing and finishing process product
The control of quality, capillary effect controls at 2.0-4.5cm/5min, THICKNESS CONTROL in 0.10-0.25mm scope,
Inherent quality index warp/latitude strength reaches more than 120N/30*200mm, average tear strengths requirement controls
At more than 15N/30*200mm, appearance requirement cloth cover is smooth bright and clean.Super-thin crush clothing leather base of the present invention
Cloth to realize the sucting wet air permeability of collection tool natural leather, the softness that is smooth to the touch, the feature such as nice and cool.
The foregoing is only the present invention preferably implements use-case, is not intended to limit the protection of the present invention
Scope.All within the spirit and principles in the present invention, any amendment, equivalent and the improvement made
Deng, should be included within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (3)
1. the manufacture method of a ultrathin embossing clothing leather foundation cloth, it is characterised in that: comprise the following steps:
(1) spinning process:
Raw material select: warp thread and weft yarn all select 1.33dtex*38mm viscose rayon be principal fibers,
1.2dtex*38mm Supercool fiber and 1.67dtex*38mm Tencel fiber are auxiliary fiber；Yarn is adopted
By strand or single thread form；Warp thread yarn count selects 32S-60S, and weft yarn yarn count selects model between 32S-60S
Enclose；
Fiber combing: select card wire type hired roughneck at opener, strengthens flexible opening or cleaning, selects at carding step
Fall junction type pin cloth, rear portion install precarding board additional to increase combing point, and cylinder and licker-in use large speed ratio, general
Deflector spaces with arc and reduces；Warp count control 56-90 root/cun, weft count controls
43-88 root/cun between scope；
Pre-the most also: use on drawing frame principal fibers and auxiliary fiber carry out by a certain percentage pre-also, use pre-the most also
Bar and viscose glue carded sliver twice are also closed；
Resultant yarn filoplume: on fly frame, uses hightension, big twist spinning technique, and reduces back zone
Drafting multiple, changes resultant yarn filoplume and irregular；
Splicing: on winder, maximum is spliced tension force 13N, and minimum is spliced tension force 8N, adjusts Balance Air
Cylinder pressure, it is ensured that success of once splicing is good with molding；
(2) weaving process:
Sizing: select water-repellent slurry 10Kg, polyester pulp 20Kg hybrid modulation, boil at full-automatic high-pressure
Slurry bucket is sized mixing；
Weave cotton cloth: use left twill tissue, employing air-jet loom weaving once in plain weave or two；
(3) dyeing and finishing process:
Move back and boil: use high temperature enzyme and refine enzyme to carry out compounding desizing on dye vat machine, reach to increase feel and
Soft purpose；
Dyeing: use high-performance frequency conversion dye jigger high-temperature pressure dyeing or room temperature dyeing；
Soft: hydrophilic people cotton softener B L802 is as auxiliary agent, for dye vat machine and dehydrator in employing；
Aftertreatment technology: using plucking, cropping, expanding to combine, capillary effect controls
2.0-4.5cm/5min；The THICKNESS CONTROL of leather base cloth in 0.10-0.25mm scope, inherent quality index through/
Latitude strength reaches more than 120N/30*200mm, average tear strengths requirement controls at 15N/30*200mm
Above.
The manufacture method of a kind of ultrathin embossing clothing leather foundation cloth the most as claimed in claim 1, its feature
Be: described in splice step, during winder is spliced, when dispelling time, length of splicing and twisting
Between technological parameter be respectively 2 milliseconds, 7 millimeters, 5 milliseconds.
The manufacture method of a kind of ultrathin embossing clothing leather foundation cloth the most as claimed in claim 1, its feature
Be: described in weave cotton cloth in step, on air-jet loom side shoring device, temple coronule is 30 rings, temple thorn be
0.8,0.6,0.4, the double acupuncture of 0.2mm, it is installed and is respectively 5 rings, 5 rings, 10 rings, 10 rings；
On loom, split span of control is at 172-183cm.
Priority Applications (1)
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| CN201610118200.6A CN105734778B (en) | 2016-03-03 | 2016-03-03 | A kind of manufacture method of ultrathin embossing clothing leather foundation cloth |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201610118200.6A CN105734778B (en) | 2016-03-03 | 2016-03-03 | A kind of manufacture method of ultrathin embossing clothing leather foundation cloth |
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| CN105734778A true CN105734778A (en) | 2016-07-06 |
| CN105734778B CN105734778B (en) | 2017-07-25 |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN116815383A (en) * | 2023-06-21 | 2023-09-29 | 广东启悦未来科技股份有限公司 | Stiff and smooth suspended soft fabric and preparation method thereof |
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| CN104026781A (en) * | 2014-05-21 | 2014-09-10 | 江阴福斯特纺织有限公司 | High-strength, abrasion-resistant, high-absorption, high-sweat-discharge anti-wrinkle and anti-ultraviolet business wear fabric and production technology |
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| US20050101209A1 (en) * | 2003-11-07 | 2005-05-12 | The Hong Kong Polytechnic University | Woven fabric with moisture management properties |
| CN101109123A (en) * | 2007-08-27 | 2008-01-23 | 福建南纺股份有限公司 | Xiyurong clothing leather base cloth and manufacturing method therefor |
| CN101608378A (en) * | 2009-07-14 | 2009-12-23 | 东华大学 | Coolmax fiber/pearl fiber blending knitted fabric with moisture absorption and perspiration health care function |
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| CN116815383A (en) * | 2023-06-21 | 2023-09-29 | 广东启悦未来科技股份有限公司 | Stiff and smooth suspended soft fabric and preparation method thereof |
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| CN105734778B (en) | 2017-07-25 |
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Address after: 353000 No. 63 Anfeng Road, Yanping District, Nanping City, Fujian Province Patentee after: Fujian Funeng Nanfang New Materials Co., Ltd. Address before: 353000 No. 63 Anfeng Road, Yanping District, Nanping City, Fujian Province Patentee before: FUJIAN SOUTHERN TEXTILE CO., LTD. |
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Address after: Nanping City, Fujian province 353000 Yanping District No. 63 Feng Lu ANN Patentee after: Fujian Funeng Nanfang sanitary materials Co., Ltd Address before: Nanping City, Fujian province 353000 Yanping District No. 63 Feng Lu ANN Patentee before: Fujian Funeng Nanfang New Materials Co.,Ltd. |
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| CP01 | Change in the name or title of a patent holder |