WO2023083858A1 - Composition liquide comprenant des colorants naturels - Google Patents

Composition liquide comprenant des colorants naturels Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023083858A1
WO2023083858A1 PCT/EP2022/081253 EP2022081253W WO2023083858A1 WO 2023083858 A1 WO2023083858 A1 WO 2023083858A1 EP 2022081253 W EP2022081253 W EP 2022081253W WO 2023083858 A1 WO2023083858 A1 WO 2023083858A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
composition
oil
chosen
oils
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PCT/EP2022/081253
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English (en)
Inventor
Magali Garrec
Ludovic Thevenet
Laure Le Chaux
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR2111877A external-priority patent/FR3128877A1/fr
Priority claimed from FR2111882A external-priority patent/FR3128878A1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2023083858A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023083858A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a liquid composition for making up and/or caring for the skin or the lips, comprising at least one natural dye or dye of natural origin and at least one liquid compound obtained from a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer.
  • Makeup compositions usually comprise synthetic coloured species, which are soluble or dispersed in the medium of the composition, or alternatively coloured species of natural origin dispersed in the medium of the composition, for instance nacres.
  • synthetic coloured species which are soluble or dispersed in the medium of the composition, or alternatively coloured species of natural origin dispersed in the medium of the composition, for instance nacres.
  • natural coloured species in particular such as anthocyans
  • the colour of these substances is usually pH- sensitive, which may entail, if these dyes are used in sufficient amount, an undesirable variation in the colour of the composition when it is applied to a support such as the lips, for example.
  • one of the objectives of the present invention is to propose liquid compositions for making up and/or caring for human keratin materials, more particularly the skin and the lips, comprising at least one natural dye chosen from anthocyans, the colour of which does not vary significantly, even when these dyes are employed as sole dyestuffs or main dyestuffs.
  • one subject of the present invention is a liquid composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials such as the skin and/or lips, having a viscosity of between 6 and 18 Pa.s, measured at 25°C using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition, at a shear rate of 200 rotations/min (rpm), comprising:
  • At least one natural dyestuff or dyestuff of natural origin chosen from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanins, proanthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof;
  • a subject of the present invention is also a liquid composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips, comprising:
  • At least one natural dyestuff or dyestuff of natural origin chosen from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanins, proanthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof;
  • (C) at least a first non-volatile oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, ester, ether or carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils, these oils being different from the liquid polyesters (B) and devoid of free hydroxyl groups, plant oils with the exception of castor oil and lesquerella oil; and also mixtures thereof;
  • the invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin and/or the lips, and in particular the lips, which consists in applying the compositions described previously.
  • composition is applied to the bare lips by means of the applicator, so as to cover the lips uniformly (more particularly one or two round trips (i.e.: back and forth movement) on the upper lip without intermediate reloading with product, one or two round trips on the lower lip without intermediate reloading with product; using a conventional, flexible, flocked gloss applicator (Reference 14030, Geka GmbH) and a suitable container).
  • a conventional, flexible, flocked gloss applicator Reference 14030, Geka GmbH
  • composition does not change colour when the value of AE2000 directly after application and 1 hour thereafter is less than or equal to 2, more particularly less than or equal to 1.5 and even more particularly less than or equal to 1 .
  • Protocol for measuring the viscosity is performed at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions/min (rpm).
  • the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention is between 6 and 18 Pa.s, preferably between 6 and 15 Pa.s.
  • natural compound refers to a compound obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration, or else from a biotechnological process, notably obtained from microbiological or cell cultures, for example from fungi or from bacteria.
  • compound of natural origin means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations as indicated above.
  • additional chemical or industrial treatments bringing about modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those permitted by the regulatory bodies such as COSMOS (Reference system for cosmetic, biological and ecological products, version 3.1 of 1 June, 2020), or possibly defined by the AFNOR standard 16-128.
  • a compound is more particularly considered to be natural or of natural origin when it is predominantly composed of natural constituents, i.e. when the weight ratio of natural constituents to non-natural constituents which make up the compound is greater than 1 .
  • the dyestuff is water-soluble.
  • water-soluble dye (and more generally “water-soluble compound”) means a dye (or compound) which has a solubility in water, measured at 25°C, at least equal to 0.01 g/l (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solution).
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one natural dyestuff or dyestuff of natural origin chosen from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanins, proanthocyanidins, and also mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof.
  • the proanthocyanidins A1 , A2, B1 , B2, B3 and C1 may in particular be suitable for performing the invention.
  • the anthocyanins they are substituted glycoside salts and acyl glycosides of 2-phenylbenzopyrylium.
  • Anthocyanidins are aglycone anthocyanin compounds.
  • anthocyanidins consists of a chroman nucleus (Ce-ring A and Cs-ring C) bearing a second aromatic ring (Ce-ring B) in position 2, as represented in the formula below.
  • the various anthocyanidins differ in the number and position of the hydroxyl and/or methyl ether groups attached to their position 3, 5, 6, 7, 3’, 4’ and/or 5’.
  • anthocyanidins Over 31 monomeric anthocyanidins have been identified. However, 90% of the naturally existing anthocyanins are represented by six structures (30% cyanidins (2), 22% delphinidins (3), 18% pelargonidins (1) and the final 20% made up of peonidins (4), malvidins (6) and petunidins (5)).
  • the colour of the anthocyanidins differs with the number of hydroxyl groups attached to the molecules and more particularly those present in ring B.
  • the colour of the molecule changes from orange to purple with the number of hydroxyl units present in its structure.
  • Glycosylation of the anthocyanidins has the effect of stimulating the red colour thereof, while the presence of blue aromatic or aliphatic acyl units has an essential effect on the stability and solubility thereof.
  • These dyes may notably be characterized by the following CAS numbers: 134-01-1 , 134-04-3, 528-53-0, 528-28-5, 643-84-5, 1429-30-7, 11029-12-2, etc., and defined by the “CTFA - International Color Handbook', Third Edition, CTFA, pages 856-857.
  • These dyes may be found in many plants, for instance chokeberry, blueberry, cranberry, purple or black carrot, blackcurrant, cherry, red cabbage, poppy, strawberry, geranium, pomegranate, hibiscus, purple corn, bilberry, purple sweet potato, red radish, black grape, sorghum and elderberry.
  • the dyes are chosen from those originating from radish (INCI name: Raphanus sativus root extract), from purple sweet potato (INCI name: Ipomoea batatas root extract).
  • the dyes used in the context of the present invention may be in pulverulent form, in the form of an extract, in solution form, in emulsion form or in dispersion form.
  • the content of natural dyestuff(s) or dyestuff(s) of natural origin, expressed as dyestuff active material, is more particularly between 0.5% and 20% by weight, between 2% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester (B) obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • liquid polyester means a polyester which begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25°C).
  • unsaturated fatty acid denotes fatty acids comprising from 1 to 6 unsaturations (carbon-carbon double bonds).
  • the unsaturated fatty acid dimer is more particularly obtained by an intermolecular polymerization reaction, notably a dimerization reaction, of at least one unsaturated monocarboxylic acid. It is derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, notably a C16-C22 fatty acid and more particularly a C18 fatty acid.
  • the liquid polyester used in the present invention is obtained from a diacid dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, optionally followed by total or partial, advantageously total, hydrogenation of the carbon-carbon bonds.
  • this diacid dimer is greater than 70%, more particularly greater than 90% by weight, or even more preferentially greater than 95% by weight; the remainder of the mixture possibly being trimers and/or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • the liquid polyester of the composition according to the invention may be obtained by reacting the abovementioned acid dimer with at least one C3-C4 diol, which is preferably linear and preferably saturated.
  • the diol is 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3- butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.
  • the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000 g/mol, preferably between 1000 and 2000 g/mol and preferentially between 1200 and 1800 g/mol.
  • the polyesters have a viscosity of between 3000 and 400 000 cSt at 40°C.
  • the polyester is obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol or of dilinoleic acid and 1 ,3-propanediol.
  • the liquid polyester of the composition according to the invention may be obtained by reacting the abovementioned acid dimer with at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), which is preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is a C16-C32 and preferably a C16-C22 alcohol.
  • alcohol dimer diol dimer
  • diol dimer more particularly denotes saturated diols produced by hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined previously.
  • the diol dimer may also have other components, for example a triol trimer, a monoalcohol and compounds of ether type, depending on the degree of purification of the dimer acid and/or of the lower alcohol ester thereof, used as starting material. It is possible to use products whose content of diol dimer is greater than 70% by weight, but it is preferred to use a diol dimer of high purity, such as a compound in which the diol dimer content is greater than 90% by weight.
  • a diol dimer may be produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, notably a CIB to C32 fatty acid, such as those mentioned previously, notably a Cis to C22 fatty acid and more particularly a C fatty acid.
  • a diacid dimer which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, notably a CIB to C32 fatty acid, such as those mentioned previously, notably a Cis to C22 fatty acid and more particularly a C fatty acid.
  • the diol dimer is derived from the hydrogenation of the acid functions of dilinoleic diacid.
  • the diol dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, followed by hydrogenation of the acid functions.
  • the diol dimer may be in the saturated form, i.e. not including any carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the possible carbon-carbon double bonds of the diol dimer are totally or partially hydrogenated, after esterification reaction of the diacid dimer with the diol dimer.
  • the hydrogenated forms notably the totally hydrogenated forms, are preferred.
  • esters that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of the following products (INCI name): Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, notably sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®
  • the composition according to the invention comprises, as liquid polyester (A), at least one compound (INCI names), alone or as mixtures, chosen from Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer and Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer.
  • the composition according to the invention having a viscosity of between 6 and 18 Pa.s, measured as indicated previously in the description, more particularly comprises at least one liquid polyester (A) in a content of between 20% to 70% by weight, more particularly between 30% to 70% by weight, preferably between 30% and 60% by weight, even more advantageously between 40% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of glyceryl trihydroxystearate and has a liquid polyester content of at least 40% by weight, preferably between 40% and 70% by weight, more particularly between 45% and 70% by weight, even more preferentially between 50% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first non-volatile oil (C) chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, ester, ether or carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils, these oils being different from the liquid polyesters (B) and devoid of free hydroxyl groups, plant oils with the exception of castor oil and lesquerella oil, preferably devoid of free hydroxyl groups, and also mixtures thereof.
  • C non-volatile oil
  • oil denotes liquid compounds that are water-immiscible, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013x10 5 Pa).
  • non-volatile oil means an oil whose vapour pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.
  • the vapour pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure (standard OCDE 104).
  • the first oil is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • linear or branched, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon type).
  • Said linear or branched apolar oils may be of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, for instance: liquid paraffin,
  • C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-C21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-C28 Alkane (INCI name), for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC
  • hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes for instance products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers
  • hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes for instance non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats
  • hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes for instance non-volatile compounds of the Puresyn® range sold by the company ExxonMobil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the first oil is chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups, notably such as (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-0 group.
  • the phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is chosen from dimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicones and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the non-volatile first oil is chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane, isoeicosane, C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-C21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-C28 Alkane (INCI name), hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polydecenes, and also mixtures thereof; and/or from non-phenylated silicone oils chosen from dimethicones, phenyl silicones, for instance trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicones, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones, and also mixtures thereof; and preferably from said apolar hydrocarbon-based oils
  • the first oil is chosen from ester, ether or carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils, devoid of free hydroxyl groups, and different from the liquid polyesters (B) described previously.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil conventionally denotes an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil is thus different from a silicone oil and a fluoro oil.
  • the hydrocarbon- based oils according to the invention contain only carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and possibly nitrogen atoms.
  • the oil is chosen from plant oils, with the exception of castor oil and lesquerella oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • plant oils examples include those chosen from jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, dog rose oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, kaya oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sweet almond oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the plant oil is chosen from sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil and sesame seed oil, alone or as mixtures.
  • the first oil is chosen from ester oils, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising in total between 17 and 70 linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic carbon atoms.
  • esters are chosen from monoesters and polyesters, different from the abovementioned liquid polyesters (B), for instance:
  • a monocarboxylic acid and of a monoalcohol for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate
  • purcellin oil cetostearyl
  • diesters for instance diesters of dicarboxylic acids and of monoalcohols, preferably such as diisostearyl malate, or diesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate;
  • the non-volatile first oil may be chosen from the ethers of formula ROR’, the carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR’, in which formulae the groups R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based group comprising less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C16 group.
  • ROR the carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR’
  • formulae the groups R and R’ which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based group comprising less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C16 group.
  • dicaprylyl ether dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14- C15 dialkyl carbonate, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the non-volatile first oil (C) is chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, from ester hydrocarbon-based oils comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising in total between 17 and 70 linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic carbon atoms, devoid of free hydroxyl groups, from plant oils with the exception of castor oil and lesquerella oil; dicaprylyl ether and dicaprylyl carbonate, alone or as mixtures.
  • the non-volatile first oil (C) is chosen from squalane, capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, oleyl erucate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, olive oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil and sesame seed oil, alone or as mixtures.
  • the content of non-volatile first oil(s) (C) represents from 10% to 60% by weight, notably from 10% to 50% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 55% by weight and preferably from 30% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention having a viscosity of between 6 and 18 Pa.s, measured as indicated previously in the description, more particularly comprises a content of non-volatile first oil(s) comprised between 10% to 60% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of glyceryl trihydroxystearate, and more particularly comprises a content of non-volatile first oil(s) comprised between 10% to 50% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one lipophilic thickener, chosen from silicas, which may or may not have undergone a hydrophobic treatment; glyceryl trihydroxystearate, dextrin esters, alone or as a mixture, and preferably glyceryl trihydroxystearate.
  • lipophilic thickener chosen from silicas, which may or may not have undergone a hydrophobic treatment; glyceryl trihydroxystearate, dextrin esters, alone or as a mixture, and preferably glyceryl trihydroxystearate.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise, as lipophilic thickener, a fumed silica, preferably a hydrophobic fumed silica, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
  • Fumed silica which has undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment is suitable for use in the invention. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is notably possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • hydrophobic groups may be:
  • Silicas thus treated are known as “Silica Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot;
  • Silicas thus treated are known as “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (Sth Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.
  • SM specific surface area per unit mass
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.
  • the specific surface per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • BET Brunauer-Emmett-Teller
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non- spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter.
  • This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.
  • SM surface area per unit mass
  • D[0.5] volume mean diameter
  • the aerogels are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • hydrophobic silica means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
  • Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g. [0109] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
  • Use will preferably be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • VM-2270 INCI name: Silica silylate
  • the lipophilic thickener that may be used in the context of the present invention may also be glyceryl tri hydroxy stearate (also known as trihydroxystearine - INCI name), which is thus the glycerol triester of 12-hydroxystearic acid.
  • This product is, for example, sold under the name Thixcin® by the company Elementis Specialties.
  • this compound is preferably used, in the process for preparing the composition, at a temperature below its melting point.
  • it is not excluded to use it as a wax, i.e. at a temperature above its melting point.
  • the lipophilic thickener is chosen from dextrin esters, more particularly a fatty acid ester of dextrin, which is preferably a C 3 -C 3 o ester.
  • fatty acid ester of dextrin corresponds to formula (I):
  • radicals Ri, R 2 and R 3 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 30, notably from 8 to 22, or even 12-18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of said radicals Ri, R 2 or R 3 is other than hydrogen, n is an integer between 3 and 150, notably 10 and 100 and preferably 15-40.
  • the three radicals Ri, R 2 and R 3 are other than hydrogen, thereby resulting in dextrin esters of formula (II) below: [Chem 3] in which: the radicals R’i , R’ 2 and R’ 3 , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 30, notably 8 to 22, more particularly 12-18 carbon atoms, n is an integer between 3 and 150, notably 10 and 100 and preferably 15-40.
  • the radicals -OCOR’i, -OCOR’2 and/or -OCOR’3 may be chosen from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethy I butyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoarachic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linole
  • the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, notably underthe name Rheopearl from the company Chiba Flour Milling Co.
  • the content of lipophilic thickener(s) more particularly represents from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the lipophilic thickener is or comprises glyceryl trihydroxystearate
  • the content of this ingredient is such that it does not exceed 8% by weight, and more particularly does not exceed 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More particularly, the content of glyceryl trihydroxystearate is between 0.1% and 8% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises glyceryl tri hydroxy stearate
  • its content is more particularly between 3% and 8% by weight, even more preferentially between 3% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may further comprise at least one lipophilic thickener different from the glyceryl trihydroxystearate, chosen from silicas, which may or may not have undergone a hydrophobic treatment; dextrin esters, alone or as a mixture; in such a case, its content is more particularly between 0.1 % and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition [0123]
  • the composition comprises silica
  • said silica is chosen from fumed silica, which is preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, which are preferably hydrophobic.
  • the composition comprises at least glyceryl trihydroxystearate.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic thickener chosen from natural or synthetic clays, which have in particular been made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt, for instance a C10 to C22 chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • an alkyl ammonium salt for instance a C10 to C22 chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
  • They are preferably chosen from hectorites.
  • the clays are lipophilic and chosen in particular from hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium halide, notably a chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (87% isododecane/10% disteardimonium hectorite/3% propylene carbonate) by the company Elementis.
  • a chloride such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride
  • composition comprises such clays, their content is preferably not greater than 2% by weight, preferably not greater than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention does not comprise any modified or unmodified clay.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water.
  • the composition comprises any, its content is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 8% by weight.
  • the content of water if it is present, is between 0.05% and 8% by weight and more particularly between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one hydroxylated solvent, more particularly chosen from monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, notably such as ethanol, isopropanol, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the hydroxylated solvent may also be chosen from C2-C8 polyols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising from 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3- propanediol, butylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the content of hydroxylated solvent(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 8% by weight.
  • the content of hydroxylated solvent(s) is between 0.05% and 8% by weight, more particularly between 0.1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water and of hydroxylated solvent(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more preferentially less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one solid fatty compound chosen from waxes, other than glyceryl trihydroxystearate, pasty fatty compounds, or mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax, other than glyceryl tri hydroxy stearate (trihydroxystearine - INCI name).
  • waxes means water-insoluble solid fatty compounds, in particular having a melting point of between 40 and 120°C, more advantageously between 45 and 100°C and even more preferentially from 50 to 100°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a “hermetic aluminium capsule” crucible.
  • the sample is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point value of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes, ester hydrocarbon-based waxes, and also mixtures thereof.
  • apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes i.e. waxes comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure
  • ester hydrocarbon-based waxes mention may be made of fatty acid monoesters, dicarboxylic acid diesters, total esters of glycerol and of a C16-C30 carboxylic acid, these waxes not comprising any free hydroxyl groups; waxes of animal or plant origin with the exception of carnauba wax; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or plant oils, with the exception of hydrogenated castor oil; and also mixtures thereof.
  • waxes of fatty acid esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen.
  • R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen.
  • cetyl palmitate and C20-C40 alkyl stearates may be used as wax.
  • Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax® K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
  • Use may also be made of mixtures of esters of C14-C18 carboxylic acids and of alcohols, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from the company Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MBAL and Crodamol MS PA from the company Croda, and Miraceti from the company Laserson.
  • Diesters of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R 3 -(-OCO-R4-COO-Rs), in which R 3 and R 5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C 3 o alkyl group and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C 3 o aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, are also suitable for use as ester waxes.
  • the C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
  • Use may also be made of total esters of a saturated C -C 3 o carboxylic acid, with glycerol, for instance tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate) or tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture.
  • glycerol for instance tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate) or tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate)
  • Use may also be made of waxes of animal or plant origin, with the exception of carnauba wax, for instance beeswax, synthetic beeswax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or sunflower wax, in particular refined sunflower wax.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of plant oils notably containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains for instance hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil or hydrogenated coconut oil
  • waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol such as those sold under the names Phytowax® Ricin 16L64 and Phytowax® Ricin 22L73 by the company Sophim.
  • Such waxes are described in patent application FR 2 792 190.
  • waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol or lauryl alcohol mention may be made of those sold under the name Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57 or Phytowax® Olive 12 L 44.
  • the composition comprises at least one wax other than trihydroxystearine
  • said wax is preferably chosen from beeswax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, fatty acid ester waxes, in particular cetyl palmitate, polyethylene wax, Fischer- Tropsch waxes, ozokerite, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the content of wax(es) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly between 1 % and 10% by weight, more particularly between 2% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pasty compound, more particularly an apolar or polar hydrocarbon-based compound.
  • pasty compound means a lipophilic solid compound having, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • a pasty compound may have a starting melting point of less than 25°C.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for the waxes.
  • the measuring protocol is, however, as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and it is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include lanolins and derivatives thereof, for instance acetylated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Butters of plant origin for instance shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, and also mixtures thereof, are also suitable for use.
  • esters derived from pentaerythritol for instance the products of INCI name Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate; triglycerides of saturated fatty acids or of hydrogenated fatty acids, for instance the products of INCI name Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Cocoyl Glycerides, and mixtures thereof.
  • Use may also be made, as pasty compound, of totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, with the exception of hydrogenated castor oil, for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, partially hydrogenated olive oil, and also mixtures thereof.
  • hydrogenated castor oil for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, partially hydrogenated olive oil, and also mixtures thereof.
  • Hydrogenated castor oil esters such as the products of INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (sold, for example, under the name Risocast DA-L by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) or Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate (notably sold under the name Salacos HCISV-L by the company Nisshin OilliO), may be suitable for performing the invention.
  • the pasty compound(s) are chosen from plant butters; totally or partially hydrogenated, preferably partially hydrogenated, plant oils, with the exception of hydrogenated castor oil; Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate / Tetraisostearate, Caprylic / Capric I Myristic / Stearic Triglyceride; Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2; Bis-Behenyl I Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl I Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl/ Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; and also mixtures thereof.
  • the content of pasty fatty compound(s) is between 0.5% and 15% by weight, more particularly between 1 % and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional compound chosen from oils, waxes, pasty compounds, other than the liquid polyesters (B), the non-volatile first oils (C), glyceryl trihydroxystearate and the solid fatty compounds detailed previously.
  • additional compound chosen from oils, waxes, pasty compounds, other than the liquid polyesters (B), the non-volatile first oils (C), glyceryl trihydroxystearate and the solid fatty compounds detailed previously.
  • said additional compound(s) are chosen from Cs-C eo fatty alcohols; hydroxylated esters, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil; lesquerella oil; carnauba wax; monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated hydrocarbon-based or silicone compounds, the alkyl group(s) of which are of C2-C3, which may be monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated, and also mixtures thereof.
  • saturated or unsaturated Cs-Cso alcohols which are liquid or solid at room temperature
  • hydroxylated esters mention may be made of hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably with a total carbon number ranging from 20 to 70, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate or diisostearyl malate.
  • esters of glycerol or polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 8 glycerol units, for instance glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, and also mixtures thereof.
  • esters may optionally be oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated.
  • composition according to the invention does not comprise any additional compounds.
  • compositions were to comprise any, their content would preferably be less than 7% by weight, more particularly less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More precisely, this content would be less than 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • liquid additional compound(s) is less than that of nonvolatile first oil(s) described previously.
  • the content of additional solid compound(s) remains less than that of the solid compounds described previously, if the composition comprises these two types of compounds.
  • the overall content of water and/or of hydroxylated solvent(s) and/or of liquid or solid additional compound(s) and/or of glyceryl tri hydroxy stearate, if one or more are present is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise, in addition to the natural dyestuffs or dyestuffs of natural origin (A) described previously, at least one additional dyestuff, which is preferably solid.
  • the additional dyestuff different from the abovementioned dyestuff(s) (A), may be chosen from nacres and pigments.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
  • the nacres are chosen from those with a mean particle size (corresponding to the D50 (mean diameter, measured by laser particle size analysis or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art)) of at least 70 pm, preferably of at least 100 pm.
  • composition contains any, such nacres may be present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, in particular between 0.01% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one pigment.
  • pigments means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous or oily medium, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit. These pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
  • These pigments may be coated or uncoated mineral pigments.
  • mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, titanium oxides and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder.
  • These pigments may also be organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
  • the organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200,
  • These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment may also be a lake.
  • the term “lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed or precipitated onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
  • the pigments may have been subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.
  • the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen, for example, from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes
  • fatty acids such as stearic acid
  • metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogen
  • the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited previously notably denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the pigment(s) have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.
  • the content of pigments may range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the content of additional dyestuffs is such that the composition according to the invention shows a variation of colour under the extreme conditions detailed below:
  • the ingredients are mixed for one minute at 3000 rpm (for example using a speedmixer).
  • the ingredients are mixed for one minute at 3000 rpm (for example using a speedmixer).
  • the colour of the deposit is measured after 24 hours using a CM600d colorimeter from the company Konica Minolta in the CIELab 76 system (illuminant D65, SCI, observation angle 10°).
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more filler(s) conventionally used in makeup and/or care compositions. It should be noted that the fillers are neither pigments nor nacres.
  • These fillers are colourless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • fillers of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, make it possible to give the composition containing them softness, a matt effect and uniformity of the makeup result.
  • these fillers advantageously make it possible to combat various attacking factors such as sebum or sweat.
  • the composition comprises such fillers, they may be present in a content ranging from 0.3% to less than 10% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile oil, chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone oils, and also mixtures thereof.
  • volatile oil means an oil with a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging up to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging up to 1300 Pa.
  • the hydrocarbon-based volatile oils are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of hydrocarbon type (thus apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen).
  • they may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably: branched Cs-C alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, alone or as mixtures, linear alkanes, for example C11-C15 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile silicone oils may be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • oils examples include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt) or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures.
  • composition comprises at least one volatile oil
  • said oil is more particularly chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils.
  • the content of hydrocarbon-based or silicone volatile oil(s) is preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and advantageously the composition does not comprise any volatile oil.
  • the composition may also contain at least one adjuvant chosen from those usually used in the cosmetics field, in particular for makeup and/or care compositions for the skin and the lips.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include dyestuffs that are soluble in the composition, other than the natural dyes (A) described previously, preserving agents, antioxidants, surfactants, moisturizers, fragrances, bactericides, etc.
  • the content of optional additive(s) ranges between 2% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be obtained in a conventional manner.
  • the liquid polyester, the first non-volatile oil(s) are mixed, where appropriate in the presence of the wax-like or pasty solid fatty compounds, advantageously at a temperature above the melting point of said solid compounds.
  • the operation preferably takes place with stirring.
  • composition comprises glyceryl tri hydroxystearate
  • said compound may be added in the first step, together with the other solid compound(s), or separately, at a temperature below or above its melting point, and preferably with stirring.
  • this compound is added separately, once the first step has been performed.
  • the operation is advantageously performed at a temperature below the melting point of said compound.
  • this step of adding glyceryl trihydroxystearate takes place at a temperature of between 45 and 55°C.
  • the volatile ingredients are generally added at the end of the process, at a temperature in the region of room temperature.
  • the mineral thickeners may be added in the first step.
  • dyestuffs they may be introduced during the first step, into the mixture of the fatty substances (liquid polyester, first oil(s)), optionally comprising the solid compound(s).
  • fatty substances which is preferably liquid, for example using a three-roll mill.
  • the resulting mixture (ground material) may then be added during the preparation of the mixture of the remaining fatty substances.
  • This ground material may also be added at the end of the process for preparing the composition.
  • composition comprises dyestuffs of nacre type, it is then preferable to add them at the end of the process for preparing the composition.
  • the composition obtained is cooled or allowed to cool to room temperature or in the region thereof, advantageously while keeping it stirring.
  • composition is finally packaged in a suitable container.
  • the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
  • the fatty substances (dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, capric/caprylic triglyceride) and the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate and also the pigments are placed in the tank (multilab type) and the whole is mixed at 47°C.
  • the gelling agent trihydroxystearin
  • the whole is stirred for 10 minutes, the temperature remaining below 55°C. 3.
  • the whole is cooled with continued stirring.
  • composition is packaged in a suitable container.
  • the viscosity (measured according to the protocol of the description) is less than 6 Pa.s.
  • the sensation on application is very oily.
  • the deposit is sparingly glossy, with strong migration.
  • the fatty substances (dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, Ricinus communis seed oil) and the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate and also the pigments are placed in the tank (multilab type) and the whole is mixed at 47°C.
  • the gelling agent (trihydroxystearin) is added and the whole is stirred for 10 minutes, the temperature remaining below 55°C.
  • composition is packaged in a suitable container.
  • a stable, homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.
  • composition applies easily and leaves a very glossy deposit.
  • the fatty substances (dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, capric/caprylic triglyceride) and the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate and also the pigments are placed in the tank (multilab type) and the whole is mixed at 47°C.
  • the gelling agent (trihydroxystearin) is added and the whole is stirred for 10 minutes, the temperature remaining below 55°C.
  • composition is packaged in a suitable container. [0266] Evaluation of the composition
  • a stable, homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.
  • Viscosity (according to the protocol of the description): between 6 and 18 Pa.s.
  • composition applies easily and leaves a comfortable, very glossy deposit which remains so over time.
  • the deposit migrates little. No colour variation of the deposit is observed once it has been applied.
  • the AE value measured under the conditions of the description is not significant.
  • the fatty substances (dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, squalane) and the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate and also the pigments are placed in the tank (multilab type) and the whole is mixed at 47°C.
  • the gelling agent (trihydroxystearin) is added and the whole is stirred for 10 minutes, the temperature remaining below 55°C.
  • composition is packaged in a suitable container.
  • a stable, homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.
  • composition applies easily and leaves a comfortable, very glossy deposit which remains so over time.
  • the deposit migrates little.
  • the AE value measured under the conditions of the description is not significant.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition liquide pour le maquillage et/ou le soin des matières kératiniques telles que la peau et/ou les lèvres, présentant une viscosité comprise entre 6 et 18 Pa.s, comprenant : (A) au moins un colorant naturel choisi parmi des anthocyanines, des anthocyanidines, des proanthocyanines, des proanthocyanidines, (B) au moins un polyester liquide obtenu à partir d'un dimère d'acide gras mono ou polyinsaturé ; l'acide gras comprenant de 16 à 22 atomes de carbone ; (C) au moins une première huile non volatile choisie parmi des huiles hydrocarbonées apolaires, des huiles de silicone, des huiles hydrocarbonées éthérées, estérifiées ou carbonatées, ces huiles étant différentes des polyesters liquides (B) et dépourvues de groupes hydroxyle libres, des huiles végétales à l'exception de l'huile de ricin et de l'huile de lesquerella. Un autre objet concerne une composition liquide comprenant : (A) au moins un colorant naturel choisi parmi des anthocyanines, des anthocyanidines, des proanthocyanines, des proanthocyanidines ; (B) au moins 40 % en poids d'un polyester liquide obtenu à partir d'un dimère d'acide gras mono ou polyinsaturé ; l'acide gras comprenant de 16 à 22 atomes de carbone ; (C) au moins une première huile non volatile telle que décrite précédemment ; (D) de 3 % à 10 % en poids de trihydroxystéarate de glycéryle. L'invention concerne également un procédé de maquillage et/ou de soin de matières kératiniques qui consiste à appliquer ladite composition.
PCT/EP2022/081253 2021-11-09 2022-11-09 Composition liquide comprenant des colorants naturels WO2023083858A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2111877A FR3128877A1 (fr) 2021-11-09 2021-11-09 Composition liquide comprenant des colorants naturels, un polyester liquide et de la trihydroxystearine
FRFR2111882 2021-11-09
FR2111882A FR3128878A1 (fr) 2021-11-09 2021-11-09 Composition liquide comprenant des colorants naturels
FRFR2111877 2021-11-09

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WO2023083858A1 true WO2023083858A1 (fr) 2023-05-19

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FR2679771A1 (fr) 1991-08-01 1993-02-05 Oreal Utilisation pour la teinture temporaire des fibres keratiniques d'un pigment insoluble obtenu par polymerisation oxydante de derives indoliques.
JP2000191789A (ja) 1998-12-28 2000-07-11 Takemoto Oil & Fat Co Ltd 有機シリコ―ン微粒子、その製造方法、有機シリコ―ン微粒子から成る高分子材料用改質剤及び化粧品原料
FR2792190A1 (fr) 1999-04-16 2000-10-20 Sophim Procede de fabrication d'un emollient non gras a base de cires-esters
EP1086683A1 (fr) 1999-09-22 2001-03-28 L'oreal Composition de gel et son utilisation en cosmétique
EP1184426A2 (fr) 2000-09-01 2002-03-06 Toda Kogyo Corporation Particules composites, procédé de préparation, pigment et peinte, et composition de résine les utilisants
FR2829344A1 (fr) 2001-08-29 2003-03-07 Oreal Dispositif d'acquisition d'au moins une image d'au moins une partie du visage ou de la chevelure d'une personne
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WO2017162599A1 (fr) 2016-03-21 2017-09-28 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant un colorant soluble dans l'eau

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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FR2679771A1 (fr) 1991-08-01 1993-02-05 Oreal Utilisation pour la teinture temporaire des fibres keratiniques d'un pigment insoluble obtenu par polymerisation oxydante de derives indoliques.
US7470725B2 (en) 1996-11-26 2008-12-30 Cabot Corporation Organically modified aerogels, processes for their preparation by surface modification of the aqueous gel, without prior solvent exchange, and subsequent drying, and their use
JP2000191789A (ja) 1998-12-28 2000-07-11 Takemoto Oil & Fat Co Ltd 有機シリコ―ン微粒子、その製造方法、有機シリコ―ン微粒子から成る高分子材料用改質剤及び化粧品原料
FR2792190A1 (fr) 1999-04-16 2000-10-20 Sophim Procede de fabrication d'un emollient non gras a base de cires-esters
EP1086683A1 (fr) 1999-09-22 2001-03-28 L'oreal Composition de gel et son utilisation en cosmétique
EP1184426A2 (fr) 2000-09-01 2002-03-06 Toda Kogyo Corporation Particules composites, procédé de préparation, pigment et peinte, et composition de résine les utilisants
FR2829344A1 (fr) 2001-08-29 2003-03-07 Oreal Dispositif d'acquisition d'au moins une image d'au moins une partie du visage ou de la chevelure d'une personne
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FR2851914A1 (fr) * 2003-03-06 2004-09-10 Oreal Composition cosmetique brillante
FR2992193A1 (fr) * 2012-06-21 2013-12-27 Oreal Composition cosmetique liquide comprenant une huile, des particules d'aerogel de silice hydrophobe et une cire de temperature de fusion superieure a 60°c
JP2017155034A (ja) * 2016-02-29 2017-09-07 日本精化株式会社 低分子シリコーン代替油剤
WO2017162599A1 (fr) 2016-03-21 2017-09-28 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant un colorant soluble dans l'eau

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BRINKER C.J.SCHERER G.W.: "Sol-Gel Science", 1990, ACADEMIC PRESS
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DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 15 October 2018 (2018-10-15), ANONYMOUS: "Lip Tint", XP055950263, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/6050891/ Database accession no. 6050891 *
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