WO2013191306A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant une huile diméthicone non volatile, une huile silicone phénylée non volatile et une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant une huile diméthicone non volatile, une huile silicone phénylée non volatile et une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013191306A1
WO2013191306A1 PCT/JP2013/067748 JP2013067748W WO2013191306A1 WO 2013191306 A1 WO2013191306 A1 WO 2013191306A1 JP 2013067748 W JP2013067748 W JP 2013067748W WO 2013191306 A1 WO2013191306 A1 WO 2013191306A1
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Prior art keywords
oil
composition
non volatile
composition according
weight
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PCT/JP2013/067748
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English (en)
Inventor
Momoko Shimizu
Maki Ishida
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L'oreal
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Priority to JP2014560578A priority Critical patent/JP6271449B2/ja
Publication of WO2013191306A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013191306A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, more particularly to a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least a non volatile dimethicone oil, a non volatile phenylated silicone oil, a non volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil, in a particular content.
  • the present invention also relates to the processes using such composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising the application to the skin and/or the lips of such cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic properties of the said compositions in particular the applications properties such as the glide and the easiness to apply (easiness of the erosion of the composition in case of a solid composition) and to obtain a uniform (homogenous) deposit on the lips and/or the skin, and in particular to have a deposit on the skin and / or the lips that has a good transfer resistance, and in particular a good color transfer resistance.
  • the deposit should also be sufficiently shiny and/or sparingly tacky or not tacky.
  • a non volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil a non volatile dimethicone oil and a non volatile phenylated silicone oil are used in combination in a particular content, preferably in a solid composition.
  • the aim of the present invention is to overcome these drawbacks and to propose a cosmetic composition that is homogenous, stable (for example no separation into two phases, and/or exsudation, and/or sedimentation of the pigments, in particular after 24 hours or 72 hours at room temperature), and capable, in particular to form a deposit (in particular on the lips) that has a very good or a good color transfer resistance level.
  • the composition of the invention has to be capable of affording good cosmetic properties; in particular applications properties such as glide and easiness to apply, in particular on the lips, and forming a deposit having at least an acceptable level of shine (moderately good, good or very good level of shine).
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising:
  • non volatile phenylated silicone oil chosen from silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part, and from silicone oils having no dimethicone part, or mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Such a composition is stable and homogenous, and are preferably makeup compositions, whose deposition on keratin materials, and in particular the lips and/or the skin, is easy to apply (good glide, homogenous deposit) and the deposit has good transfer resistance after application (in particular, no transfer or poor transfer of the color of the deposit, in particular on a cup or a glass while drinking for example).
  • the deposit obtained with such composition is sparingly tacky or non-tacky, and has a good level of shine (moderately good to very good).
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least the application to the said skin and/or the said lips of composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising:
  • the composition under consideration according to the invention is an oil-in-oil type composition.
  • the non volatile silicone oil(s) and the non volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) are in a stable oil in oil state before application, without being separated from each other. After application, the non volatile silicone oil(s) comes up to the surface of the deposit, and this separated non volatile silicone oil(s) covers an adherent layer of the non volatile hydrocarbonated oil(s).
  • the resulting composition has good transfer resistance and offers a good level of shine. Rubbing the lips again each other during application further enhance this separation.
  • the composition under consideration according to the invention is anhydrous.
  • the composition according to the invention is solid at 20°C.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to denote a medium that is suitable for the application of a composition to the skin and/or the lips, for instance the oils or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium (acceptable tolerance, toxicology and feel) is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which the composition is to be conditioned.
  • the combination under consideration according to the invention proves to be most particularly effective for affording a composition whose deposit on the skin or the lips that simultaneously has improved gloss and non transfer properties.
  • the deposit also exibit remanence over time, in particular of remanence of the colour of the deposit (no embrittlement or fragmentation of the deposit, which remains homogeneous) and satisfactory comfort properties, both on application (especially glidance, breakdown, thickness and uniformity of the deposit formed, and reduction of the tack on drying) and during wearing, namely softness, absence of a tacky sensation or of a sensation of tautness or dryness.
  • the invention also preferably relates to a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, from 5% to 40% of non volatile non phenylated silicone oil(s) having at least a dimethicone part, or mixture thereof, at least 5% by weight of non volatile phenylated silicone oil chosen from silicone oil having at least a dimeticone part and silicone oil having no dimethicone part, and from 5% to 70% non volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil(s),or mixture thereof, and at least one colouring agent.
  • a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, from 5% to 40% of non volatile non phenylated silicone oil(s) having at least a dimethicone part, or mixture thereof, at least 5% by weight of non volatile phenylated silicone oil chosen from silicone oil having at least a dimeticone part and silicone oil having no dimethicone part, and from
  • compositions under consideration according to the invention and used in the processes according to the invention may be in solid or liquid form at 20°C.
  • the composition used according to the invention is anhydrous or contains less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • anhydrous especially means that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition, but may be present in trace amount in the various compounds used in the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention and or that used according to the process according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and/or the lips, especially for facial or bodily skin; it may be a complexion product such as a foundation, a face powder or an eyeshadow; a lip product such as a lipstick or a lipcare product; a concealer product; a blusher; an eyeliner; a Up pencil or an eye pencil; a body makeup product; a gloss (lip gloss).
  • the composition is intended for making up the lips and it is more particularly a lipstick (lipstick wand) or a gloss (liquid lipstick).
  • the lipstick compositions according to the invention are anhydrous.
  • the composition is solid at 20°C.
  • solid characterizes the state of the composition at a temperature of 20°C.
  • a solid composition according to the invention has, at a temperature of 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a hardness of greater than 30 Nm "1 and preferably greater than 35 Nm "1 .
  • composition especially of lipstick wand type is measured according to the following protocol:
  • the stick of lipstick is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.
  • the hardness may be measured at 20°C via the "cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 ⁇ in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 rnm/rninute.
  • the hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon. The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres). The hardness is converted into Nm "1 by the equation below:
  • the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.
  • a solid composition according to the invention has a hardness at 20°C of greater than or equal to 30 Nm “1 , preferably greater than 35 Nm "1 and preferably greater than 40 Nm "1 .
  • the composition according to the invention especially has a hardness at 20°C of less than 500 Nm "1 , especially less than 400 Nm "1 and preferably less than 300 Nm "1 .
  • composition whose hardness is greater than 30 Nm "1 is said to be "solid” at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the composition according to the invention especially has a value of hardness at 20°C comprised between 40 Nm "1 and 200 Nm "1 .
  • the hardness is comprised between 50 Nm “1 and 200 Nm '1 , preferably between 60 Nm "1 and 200 Nm "1 .
  • the composition according to the invention is liquid at 20°C.
  • the viscosity measurement is generally performed at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  • the composition has at 25°C a viscosity of between 1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 2 and 20 Pa.s and preferably between 4 and 17 Pa.s.
  • the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention is between 5 and 16 Pa.s.
  • the terms "between” and “ranging from” should be understood as including the limits.
  • the present invention also covers a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the lips, comprising at least the application to the said lips of a composition as defined above.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase and more particularly at least one liquid fatty phase.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one non volatile non phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part.
  • the composition according to the invention comprise from 5% to 40% by total weight of non volatile non phenylated silicone oil(s) having at least a dimethicone part, or mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprise from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by total weight of non volatile non phenylated silicone oil(s) having at least a dimethicone part, or mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention for caring for and/or making up the lips and more particularly of lipstick or lipgloss type may comprise from 5% to 40% by total weight of non volatile non phenylated silicone oil(s) having at least a dimethicone part, or mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention for caring for and/or making up the lips and more particularly of lipstick or lipgloss type may comprise from 5% to 30% by total weight of non volatile non phenylated silicone oil(s) having at least a dimethicone part, or mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention for caring for and/or making up the lips and more particularly of lipstick or lipgloss type may comprise from 5% to 20% by total weight of non volatile non phenylated silicone oil(s) having at least a dimethicone part, or mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the silicone oils that may be used according to the invention are non-volatile.
  • the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention preferably have a viscosity at 25°C comprised between 9cSt and 800000 cSt, preferably less than or equal to 600 000 cSt and preferably less man or equal to 500 000 cSt.
  • the viscosity of these silicone oils may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the non- volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen especially from silicone
  • T CI Name corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane part (chemical name).
  • the non volatile silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part can also be called a non volatile "dimethicone oil".
  • the expression “non phenylated silicone oil” or “non phenyl silicone oil” means a silicon oil having no phenyl substituent.
  • non- volatile non phenylated silicone oils are chosen from :
  • the non volatile non phenylated dimethicone oil is preferably chosen from dimethicone oils, preferably chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and/or alkyl dimethicones, and mixture thereof.
  • non-phenylated non-volatile dimethicone oils can be chosen from:
  • PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABEL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt,
  • PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
  • polyalkylmethylsiloxanes such as cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt,
  • the non volatile non phenylated dimethicone oil is preferably chosen from dimethicone oils, preferably chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • Such polydimethylsiloxane (having the ENCI name dimethicone) may be chosen from the products commercialised under the reference MERASIL DM 50 from Bluestar XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 350CS from Dow Corning and/ or XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID lOOCS from Dow Corning, and/or XIAMETER PMX-200 SIL FLUID lOOOCS from Dow Corning, and/or XIAMETER PMX-200 SIL FLUID 60'OOOCS from Dow Coming, and/or XIAMETER PMX- 200 SIL FLUID 300'OOOCS from Dow Corning and /or XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 500'OOOCS from Dow Corning, and their mixture.
  • the non volatile dimethicone(s) has a viscosity comprised between 10 and 1000 cSt, even more preferably from 75 to 400 cSt.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane (having the INCI name dimethicone) are chosen from the products commercialised under the reference MIRASIL DM 50 from Bluestar XIAMETER PMX- 200 SILICONE FLUID 350CS from Dow Corning and/ or XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID lOOCS from Dow Corning (53103), and mixture thereof.
  • non volatile non phenylated dimethicone oil is linear.
  • the composition comprises a mixture of non volatile dimethicone oils, preferably, a mixture of at least two different polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • the composition comprises a mixture of two non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, preferably in a weight ratio comprised between 0,5 and 2.
  • the non-phenylated linear dimethicone oil may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula ( ⁇ ):
  • R ls R 2 , R 5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • R 3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25°C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x lO /s) and 800 000 cSt.
  • non-volatile non phenylated silicone oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which:
  • the substituents Ri to 3 ⁇ 4 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General
  • the substituents Ri to R and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,
  • the substituents Ri to Re and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning,
  • composition compositions comprises a
  • polyalkylmethylsiloxanes such as cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt.
  • the composition comprises from 0,1 to 10% polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, such as
  • the phenyl silicone oils having no dimethicone part prove to be particularly advantageous. They can especially impart a good level of gloss to the deposit on the skin or the lips made with the composition according to the invention, without generating any tack, and enable forming of a non transfer deposit in association with the non volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by total weight of non volatile phenylated silicone oil(s), or mixture thereof.
  • additional silicone oils two types of oil may be distinguished, according to whether or not they contain a dimethicone part.
  • said non volatile silicone oil is chosen from phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part, and from phenylated silicone oils having no dimethicone part, or mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 50% by total weight of non volatile phenylated silicone oil(s), , preferably of non volatile phenylated silicone oil(s) having no dimethicone part,or mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • phenylated silicone oil or "phenyl silicone oil” means a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.
  • thel non volatile phenylated silicone oils contains a dimethicone part.
  • the expression "Dimethicone” corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane part (chemical name). 1.
  • the non volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part can also be called a non volatile "phenyl dimethicone oil".
  • the non volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part may be chosen from: a) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (TV):
  • R 1 to R 10 independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C3 0 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, p is an integer between 1 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.
  • the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100.
  • the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800.
  • q is equal to 0.
  • Ri to R 10 independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched -C30, hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, and especially Q-C 12 hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular C 3 -C 16 and more particularly C4- 0, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 and especially C 10 -C 13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.
  • Rj to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • R 1 to R 10 may especially be identical, and in addition may preferably be a methyl radical.
  • R 2 , R 5 and Re independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched -Qo hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably are a -C 3 o alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical,
  • R 3 and R4 are independently of each other Ci-C 3 o hydrocarbon-based alkyl radicals, preferably methyl,
  • - p is an integer between 1 and 100
  • n and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
  • Ri R 2 , R5 and Re independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 1 -C 30 , hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, and especially -Cn hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular C 3 -C]6 and more particularly C 4 -C 10 , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 and especially CKJ-C ⁇ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.
  • Ri R 2 , R 5 and Re may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • Ri R 2 , R 5 and Re may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • m 1 or 2 or 3
  • Ri, R 2 , R 5 and Re are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical, with the proviso that at least one from R 3 and R4 is a phenyl radical,
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being integer superior or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol. f) and mixture thereof.
  • the weight-average molecular weight of the non- volatile phenyl silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part according to the invention ranges from 500 to 10 000 g/mol.
  • the non volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part is chosen from phenyl
  • the silicone oil is preferably chosen from diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt).
  • p is between 1 and 100 in formula (VII)
  • the sum m is between 1 and 100
  • n 0 , in formula (VTI).
  • trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone such as Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker.
  • non- volatile silicone oils having at least a dimethicone part are chosen from:
  • trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone for instance Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (cf. formula (V) above)
  • phenyl dimethicones for instance Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (cf. formula (V) above
  • phenyl dimethicones for instance Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (cf. formula (V) above
  • phenyl dimethicones phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes
  • diphenyl dimethicones such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50- 300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt).
  • the non volatile phenylated silicon oil is a phenyl silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part, and is preferably chosen from: diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), F-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt);
  • diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), F-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt);
  • the composition according to the invention is free of non volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part.
  • a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having no dimethicone part, or mixture thereof. And preferably, according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of non volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part.
  • phenylated silicone oil or "phenyl silicone oil” means a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent. volatile phenylated silicone oil having no dimethicone part may be chosen from: the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula
  • the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. b) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (II):
  • the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
  • the said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may be used. Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxanes.
  • the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (III):
  • Such a phenyl silicone oil is preferably trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, or Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane.
  • oils are especially manufactured by Dow Coming under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: l,3,5-trimethyl-l,l,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane), or Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning may also be used.
  • the henyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V') below:
  • y is equal to 0.
  • Use may be made, for example, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556).
  • DC556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid
  • the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VTH) below, and mixtures thereof:
  • R independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched -C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R is a -C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, - m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
  • R independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched Q- C 3 o, hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, and especially C ⁇ -Cn hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular C 3 -C 16 and more particularly C 4 -C 10 , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 and especially C10- 3 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.
  • R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • R may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VTII).
  • R is methyl radical.
  • a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VTH) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.
  • the non volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones; such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), the oil diphenylsiloxy
  • phenyltrimethicone such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu
  • the values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°G
  • said silicone oil is preferably DC556 from Dow Corning
  • m and n are between 1 and 100
  • said said silicone oil is preferably KF56 A from Shin Etsu.
  • the silicone oil is a phenyl silicone oil having no dimethicone part, preferably chosen from:
  • phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane such as DC556 from Dow Corning
  • Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane such as PH- 1554 HRI or Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning
  • trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane such as PH- 1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning, and
  • non-volatile phenylated silicone oils examples that may be mentioned include silicone oils such as: non volatile phenyl silicone oil with no dimethicone part, preferably chosen from :
  • Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane such as as PH-1554 HRI or Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning
  • phenyl trimethicones such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning
  • phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes
  • diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes 2-phenylethyl Irimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic fluid by Dow Corning) (cf.
  • diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu
  • non volatile phenyl silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part, preferably chosen from diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt); trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, such as Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker, trimethylsnoxyphenyltrimethicone, and mixture thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may contain from 5% to 90% by weight, in particular from 10% to 80% by weight and preferably from 20% to 70% by weight in total of non volatile phenylated silicone oil(s) or mixture thereof, preferably having no dimethicone part, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may contain from 30% to 650% by weight in total of non volatile phenylated silicone oil(s) or mixture thereof, preferably having no dimethicone part, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises as non volatile phenylated silicone oil(s) a mixture of at least two different non volatile phenylated silicone oils.
  • the composition comprises preferably a mixture of non volatile phenylated silicone oils comprising:
  • At least a first non volatile phenylated silicone oil having no dimethicone part preferably such as diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone, and
  • At least a second non volatile phenylated silicone oil having no dimethicone part preferably such as trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, different from said first non volatile phenylated silicone oil having no dimethicone part.
  • the composition comprises preferably a mixture of non volatile phenylated silicone oils comprising:
  • a non volatile phenylated silicone oil having no dimethicone part preferably such as trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane and/or diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone, and
  • the weight ratio of the total non volatile phenylated silicone oil(s) to the total non volatile non phenylated dimethicone oil(s) is superior or equal to 1, preferably comprised between 1 and 100, more preferably comprised between 2 and 50.
  • the weight ratio of the total non volatile phenylated silicone oil(s) to the total non volatile non phenylated dimethicone oil(s) is comprised between 2 and 30, more preferably comprised between 2 and 10.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprises at least one additional compound, preferably chosen from a hydrocarbonated polar oil, and/or an additional volatile oil, and/or a fatty pasty compound, and/or a filler and/or a colouring agent, and/or mixture thereof.
  • additional compound preferably chosen from a hydrocarbonated polar oil, and/or an additional volatile oil, and/or a fatty pasty compound, and/or a filler and/or a colouring agent, and/or mixture thereof.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one non volatile apolar hydrocarbonated oil (also called apolar "hydrocarbon-based" oil).
  • the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 70% by total weight of non volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • apolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5 a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • 3 ⁇ 4> characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts
  • 5 a ( ⁇ ⁇ 2 + 3 ⁇ 4 2 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the parameters ⁇ , 3 ⁇ 4, 3 ⁇ 4 and 6 a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • hydrocarbon-based oil (or “hydrocarbonated oil”, or “hydrocarbon oil”) means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.
  • said -volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from:
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one non volatile
  • hydrocarbon-based apolar oil preferably chosen from polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, polydecenes and/or hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of non volatile apolar
  • hydrocarbonated oil(s) ranging from 5% to 70% by weight and preferably from 5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • said non volatile hydrocarbon oil comprise at least a hydrogenated polydecene and/or hydrogenated polyisobutene, preferably in a total content ranging from 10 to 60%, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • said non volatile hydrocarbon oil comprise at least a hydrogenated polydecene and or hydrogenated polyisobutene, preferably in a total content ranging from 10 to 40%, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the total apolar non volatile hydrocarbonated oil(s) to the total non volatile silicone oil(s) comprised between 0, 1 and 10, more preferably comprised between 0, 1 and 5, and preferably comprised between 0, 1 and 1.
  • the weight ratio of the total non volatile apolar hydrocarbonated oil(s) to the total non volatile silicone oil(s) is comprised between 0,1 and 0,5.
  • the weight ratio of the total apolar non volatile hydrocarbonated oil(s) to the total non volatile non phenylated dimethicone oil(s) is between 0, 1 and 20, preferably between 0, 1 and 10.
  • the weight ratio of the total apolar non volatile hydrocarbonated oil(s) to the total non volatile phenyl silicone oil(s) is between 0,1 and 10, more preferably comprised between 0,1 and 5, and preferably comprised between 0, 1 and 1 , more preferably between 0, 1 and 0,5.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprises at least one additional compound, preferably chosen from wax, hydrocarbonated polar oil, and/or an additional volatile oil, and/or a fatty pasty compound, and/or a filler and or a colouring agent, and/or mixture thereof.
  • additional compound preferably chosen from wax, hydrocarbonated polar oil, and/or an additional volatile oil, and/or a fatty pasty compound, and/or a filler and or a colouring agent, and/or mixture thereof.
  • composition according to the invention comprise an additional non volatile polar hydrocarbonated oil.
  • polar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5 a , is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
  • hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil;
  • fatty acid esters in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
  • R ⁇ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon- based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 1 + R 2 ⁇ 16, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinole
  • R 1 represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid
  • R represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue
  • h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9
  • - fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms which are preferably branched, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
  • Ci 2 -C22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • oils of plant origin such as sesame oil (820.6 g mol);
  • dialkyl carbonates the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC ® by Cognis; and
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil chosen from:
  • vinylpyrrolidone copolymers preferably such as the vinylpyrrolidone/1 -hexadecene copolymer
  • esters preferably with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, preferably chosen from polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;
  • oils from plant origin preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids
  • R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R 2 > 16;
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of additional non volatile polar hydrocarbonated oil ranging from 0,1% to 50%, for example from 0,1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 0,5% to 30%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of additional non volatile polar hydrocarbonated oil ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a content of non volatile polar hydrocarbonated oil comprised between 0, 1 and 10%. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from non volatile polar
  • the weight ratio of the total non volatile hydrocarbonated oil(s) (ie apolar and polar if present) to the total non volatile silicone oil(s) is comprised between 0,1 and 10, more preferably comprised between 0,1 and 5, and preferably comprised between 0,1 and 1.
  • the weight ratio of the total non volatile hydrocarbonated oil(s) (ie apolar and polar if present) to the total non volatile silicone oil(s) is comprised between 0,1 and 0,5.
  • a cosmetic makeup and/or care composition according to the invention also comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium that may comprise the usual ingredients, as a function of the intended use of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise, besides said non volatile silicone oil and said non volatile hydrocarbonated oil, an additional liquid fatty phase, preferably chosen from non volatile polar hydrocarbonated oils described before, and/or volatile silicone oils.
  • the additional liquid fatty phase may represent from 0,1 % to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention and/or used in a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 % to 75% by weight of an additional liquid fatty phase relative to its total weight.
  • composition according to the invention and/or used in a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 70% by weight of an additional liquid fatty phase relative to its total weight.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil.
  • a composition under consideration according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more oils, which may be chosen especially from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oil and fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in
  • vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 " to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (O.l to lO mmHg).
  • the oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • the fluoro oils that may be used in the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.
  • perfluoro compounds means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
  • the fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.
  • the fluoro oil is chosen from
  • perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes and especially the Fiflow® products sold by the company Creations Couliv.
  • use may be made of the fluoro oil whose I CI name is
  • the composition according to the invention further comprises a volatile hydrocarbonated oil such as isododecane and/or isohexadecane.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C 8 -C 16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixture thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C 8 -C 16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixture thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Mention may be made especially of n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n- pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil is intended to mean an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least isododecane and/or isohexadecane.
  • the composition is free of additional volatile hydrocarbonated oil other than isododecane and/or isohexadecane.
  • composition according to the invention contains between 0.1% and 20% by weight of volatile oil, preferably isododecane and/or isohexadecane, relative to its total weight.
  • the composition according to the invention contains between 1% and 15% by weight of volatile oil, preferably of isododecane and/or Isohexadecane, relative to its total weight.
  • the composition according to the invention contains between 1% and 10% by weight of volatile oil, preferably of isododecane and/or isohexadecane, relative to its total weight.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based solvents oils
  • the volatile oil has a flash point of greater than 65°C, and better still greater than 80°C.
  • a volatile oil mention may be made of isohexadecane.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% and better still less than 2% by weight of volatile oil having a flash point of less than 80°C, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of volatile oil having a flash point of less than 80°C.
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil.
  • silicone oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-0 groups.
  • volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils especially
  • cSt centistokes
  • silicon oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-0 groups.
  • the volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40°C to 150°C, preferably having a flash point of greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 105°C, and preferentially ranging from 65 °C to 95°C.
  • the flash point is in particular measured according to ISO standard 3679.
  • the volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
  • PDMSs linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes
  • Volatile silicone oils that may more particularly be mentioned include decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning,
  • a composition according to the invention may preferably also comprise at least one solid fatty substance especially chosen from waxes and/or pasty fatty substances.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least a wax.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises from 1 % to 30% by weight of total waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises from 3% to 20% by weight of total waxes, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the presence of waxes is preferred when the composition according to the invention is solid at room temperature.
  • the composition in case a makeup composition, for instance for the lips, the composition can be a lipsticks.
  • wax for the purposes of the present invention, means a lipophiHc compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from - 20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature.
  • the wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa.
  • the hardness is determined by measuring the compression force, measured at 20°C, using a texturometer sold under the name ⁇ - ⁇ 2 ⁇ by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter, moving at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least an apolar wax, preferably a hydrocarbon based wax.
  • apolar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C as defined before, ⁇ 3 ⁇ 4 is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • 3 ⁇ 4 characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts
  • ⁇ ⁇ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
  • 3 ⁇ 4 characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);
  • the parameters 3 ⁇ 4, 3 ⁇ 4, 3 ⁇ 4 and 5 a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • Apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes. Such waxes are particularly formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O and P.
  • apolar wax means a wax that is formed exclusively from apolar wax and not from a mixture also comprising other types of waxes that are not apolar waxes.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes.
  • Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and
  • Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
  • microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn and Micro wax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt.
  • microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax mention may be made especially of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.
  • the composition may contain from 1% to 30%, better still from 1% to 20% by total weight of apolar waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may contain from 3% to 20%, better still from 4% to 15% by total weight of apolar waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the apolar wax is chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes, and/or mixture thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise, besides the apolar wax, an additional wax, for instance an polar wax.
  • polar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ 3 ⁇ 4 is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • polar wax means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen or phosphorus atom.
  • the waxes may especially be hydrocarbon-based or silicone waxes.
  • hydrocarbon-based wax means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • sicone wax means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially comprising Si-0 groups.
  • the polar wax is hydrocarbon based.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of beeswax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candeliUa wax, shellac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, laurel wax and olive wax.
  • the polar wax is an ester wax.
  • ester wax means according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function.
  • ester waxes such as : i) the waxes of formula R4COOR2 in which Rj and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and whose melting point ranges from 25 to 120°C.
  • Rj and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and whose melting point ranges from 25 to 120°C.
  • a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms
  • a C ⁇ -C ⁇ -alkyl stearate may be used as ester wax.
  • Such waxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® or Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen. It is also possible to use an ester of polyethylene glycol and of montanic acid (octacosanoic acid), such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.
  • R J and R J are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C 4 -C 30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R 4 represents a linear or branched C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms), which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and is preferably linear and unsaturated, iv) waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 ® and 22L73 ® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2792 190.
  • the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.
  • alcohol wax means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
  • An example of an alcohol wax that may be mentioned is the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of polar - waxes.
  • the composition is free of pasty fatty substances.
  • the composition comprises at least one pasty fatty substance.
  • the amount of pasty fatty substance in the makeup and/or care composition according to the invention is between 0.5% and 60% by weight, especially from 1% to 50% by weight or even 2% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the term "pasty”, within the meaning of the present invention is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and comprising, at a temperature of 23 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the term "pasty compound”, within the meaning of the invention is understood to mean a compound having a hardness at 20°C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.
  • the hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyser (for example, the ⁇ - ⁇ 2 ⁇ from R eo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm.
  • the hardness measurement is carried out at 20°C at the centre of 5 samples.
  • the cylinder is introduced into each sample at a pre-rate of 1 mm/s and then at a measuring rate of 0.1 mm/s, the depth of penetration being 0.3 mm.
  • the value recorded for the hardness is that of the maximum peak.
  • this pasty compound is, at a temperature of 23°C, in the form of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 °C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23°C, represents 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 °C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85%, by weight.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 °C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty compound is "in the solid state” when the whole of its mass is in the crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty compound is "in the liquid state” when the whole of its mass is in the liquid form.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instrument, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10°C per minute, according to the ISO Standard 11357-3: 1999.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy necessary to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23 °C, composed of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 80 to 100%, more preferably from 90 to 100%, by weight of the compound.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
  • the pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin. Mention may be made especially, alone or as a mixture, of:
  • lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,
  • polyol ethers chosen from polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ethers, fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, and mixtures thereof, polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxyethylene (5 OE) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether) and mixtures thereof, and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, which is a mixture in which the constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5
  • esters ie pasty fatty substance comprising at least one ester function
  • liposoluble polyethers that are particularly preferred are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C 6 -C 30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30.
  • the pasty fatty substance comprises at least one ester function.
  • ester pasty fatty substances the following are especially preferred:
  • esters of a glycerol oligomer especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12- hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol,
  • vinyl ester homopolymers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups such as polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer PP buy the company Chimex) and arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,
  • fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof for instance triglycerides of fatty acids, which are especially o- s, and partially or totally hydrogenated such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol,
  • non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 - C50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C 2 -C 50 diol or polyol,
  • the aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.
  • the aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
  • the aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is chosen from:
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis- behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (commercialised under the references Plandool G and Plandool G7), phytosteryl/isostearyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,
  • the dimer acid can be obtained by standardized industrial processes. More particularly, the dimer acid can be obtained by dimerizing an unsaturated fatty acid with 11 to 22 carbon atoms, or a lower alcohol ester thereof with a clay catalyst or the like.
  • the resulting dimer acid has a dibasic acid having about 36 carbon atoms as a main ingredient, and may contain a trimer acid and a monomer acid in amounts in accordance with the degree of purification.
  • the dimers derived from vegetable fats and oils are preferable.
  • PRIPOL 1006, PRIPOL 1009, PRIPOL 1015, and PRIPOL 1025 provided by Croda Inc. and the like, can be used.
  • the dimer diol is more particularly a product having a diol with about 36 carbon atoms as a main ingredient.
  • the dimer diol is obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned dimer acid and/or the lower alcohol ester thereof in the presence of a catalyst to form the diol having about 36 carbon atoms in which the carboxylic acid part of the dimer acid is an alcohol.
  • the dimer diols derived from vegetable fats and oils are preferable. For example, PRIPOL 2033 provided by Croda Inc., can be used.
  • the trihydric or higher hydric alcohol having 3 to 10 carbon atoms is preferably selected from glycerol, diglycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, c trimethylolpropane and dipentaerythritol.
  • the monohydric alcohol having 1 to 34 carbon atoms is more particularly selected from a linear saturated alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a branched saturated alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, cholesterol and phytosterol.
  • the monohydric alcohol is a linear saturated alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a branched saturated alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, cholesterol and phytosterol.
  • the monohydric alcohol is a linear saturated alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a branched saturated alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, cholesterol and phytosterol.
  • the monohydric alcohol is a linear saturated
  • the monohydric alcohol having 16 or more carbon atoms, and is in the form of a paste.
  • the monohydric alcohol is cholesterol or phytosterol.
  • a double bond remains after the dimerization reaction. Therefore, a dimer acid in which hydrogenation is further carried out can be used.
  • mango butter such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn,
  • hydrogenated oils of plant origin such as hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (sold as
  • shea butter in particular the product whose ESTCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn,
  • hydrogenated rosinate esters such as dilinoleyl dimers of hydrogenated rosinate (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical); and
  • the pasty fatty substance is a hydrocarbon-based compound comprising at least one ester function.
  • the pasty fatty substance is chosen from hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (SALACOS HCIS (V-L) fromNISSHIN OIL), bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, esters obtained by allowing a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 34 carbon atoms to react with an ester which is obtained by reacting a dimer acid with an alcohol mixture of a dimer diol and a trihydric or higher hydric alcohol having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, by using 0.8 to 1.5 molar equivalents) of the monohydric alcohol with respect to one molar equivalent of a carboxyl group remaining in the ester obtained from the dimer acid and the alcohol mixture (and for instance described in JP2011-20933), bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (Risocast-DA-L®, Risocast DA-
  • the cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising:
  • non volatile phenylated silicone oil chosen from silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part, and from silicone oils having no dimethicone part, or mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • At least a pasty compound chosen from (i) bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate; (ii) esters obtained by allowing a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 34 carbon atoms to react with an ester which is obtained by reacting a dimer acid with an alcohol mixture of a dimer diol and a trihydric or higher hydric alcohol having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, by using 0.8 to 1.5 molar equivalents) of the monohydric alcohol with respect to one molar equivalent of a carboxyl group remaining in the ester obtained from the dimer acid and the alcohol mixture; and preferably among (ii).
  • a makeup and/or care composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more filler(s).
  • the composition is free of fillers.
  • the composition comprises at least one or more filler(s).
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve especially to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
  • the fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, clay, bentone, fumed silica particles, optionally hydrophilic- or hydrophobic-treated, polyamide (Nylon®) powder (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- ⁇ - alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powder, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as polyvinylidene
  • chloride/acrylonitrile microspheres for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres (Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.
  • organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laur
  • They may also be particles comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone.
  • it may be a copolymer of hexamethylene dfeocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone.
  • Such particles are especially commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D- 400® or Plastic Powder D-800® from the company Toshiki.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least silica, preferably hydrophobic treated silica.
  • the composition comprises at least one filler, and in particular chosen from fumed silicas that have optionally been hydrophilic- or hydrophobic-treated, preferably hydrophobic-treated.
  • the composition comprises at least one filler known as Silica
  • the hydrophobic groups may especially be dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane.
  • Silicas thus treated are known as Silica Dimethyl Silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
  • composition according to the invention is free of
  • nanonosilica preferably free of hydrophobic treated silica of INCI name Silica Dimethyl Silylate.
  • silica means silica having a nanometric size, or a least a fraction of nanometric size.
  • the composition contains between 0.01% and 25% by weight and in particular between 0.1% and 20% by weight of fillers relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition when it is in liquid form, it comprises at least one filler, preferably chosen from silica, kaolin, bentone, fumed silica particles, which have preferably been hydrophobic-treated, lauroyllysine and starch.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a filler chosen from:
  • organomodified clays which are preferably clays treated with compounds chosen especially from quaternary amines and tertiary amines.
  • Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, and organomodified hectorites such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 and Bentone 38 by the company Rheox, hydrophobic fumed silica.
  • Such silicas are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot, and under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
  • the filler may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and better still from 0.4% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprise may comprised at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles .
  • Such compound is a filler.
  • such compound is present when the composition is free of nanosilica and more particularly free of Silica Dimethyl Silylate.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 6% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may comprise at least a additional fUler, such as those described before for example.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, when the composition is free of nanometric silica particules as described before, such as Silica Dimethyl Silylate.
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical C0 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m /g and better still from 600 to 800 m /g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 um, more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • SM surface area per unit of mass
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention have a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • the specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the size of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ and better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • SM surface area per unit of mass
  • D[0.5] mean volume diameter
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped density p ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 and preferably from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density known as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
  • the oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used according to the present invention are preferably of silylated silica type (TNCI name: silica silylate).
  • hydrophobic silica means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups Use will be made in particular of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (TNCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m /g.
  • VM-2260 TNCI name: Silica silylate
  • Dow Corning the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m /g.
  • Aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100.
  • Use will be made more particularly of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g (oil uptake equal to 1080 ml/100 g).
  • the hollow particles in accordance with the invention are at least partly formed from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, preferably those with a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m /g and preferably from 600 to 1200 m /g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , better still from 1 to 1000 urn, preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 um.
  • SM surface area per unit of mass
  • D[0.5] mean volume diameter
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles also advantageously makes it possible to improve the stability of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least an ester of dextrin, preferably an ester of dextrin and a fatty acid, preferably a C 12 a C 24 fatty acid.
  • the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrine and a C 14 -C 18 fatty acid.
  • the dextrin ester is dextrine palmitate, for example such as those commercialised under the references Rheopearl TL ® or Rheopearl KL ® by the society CHIBA FLOUR.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of dextrin ester ranging from from 0, 1 % to 15% by weight and preferably from 0, 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of dextrin ester ranging from 1 % to 8% by weight and preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is free from dextrin ester.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one dyestuff (also known as a colouring agent), which may be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments and nacres, and mixtures thereof.
  • dyestuff also known as a colouring agent
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes and pulverulent dyestuffs, for instance pigments, nacres and glitter flakes that are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution, which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting film.
  • the pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight and in particular from 0.2%» to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
  • a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
  • the dyestuff may also comprise a pigment with a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.
  • a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL- 100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
  • DPP diketopyrrolopyrroles
  • nacres should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres examples include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Tirniron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica- based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
  • nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of the gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the n
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or liposoluble dyes.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect as dyestuff.
  • This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect as produced by standard dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments.
  • stabilized means lacking an effect of variability of the colour as a function of the angle of observation or alternatively in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, especially interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined so as to afford the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even of a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
  • Aqueous phase may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, especially interference fibres.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise an aqueous phase, which may represent 0,01% to 50% by weight, especially 0,1% to 30% by weight or even 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • This aqueous phase may be formed essentially from water, or may comprise a mixture of water and of water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) chosen especially from monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C 3 -C ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes, and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the invention are anhydrous.
  • anhydrous especially means that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. Additivefs)
  • a makeup and/or care composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one agent usually used in cosmetics, chosen, for example, from reducing agents, thickeners, film-forming agents that are especially hydrophobic, silicone elastomers, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, ceramides; cosmetic active agents; peptizers, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, propellants, hydrophilic or lipophilic, film-forming or non-film-forming polymers; lipophilic or hydrophilic gelling agents.
  • the above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the constituents of the composition such that the advantageous properties associated with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected.
  • a composition used according to the invention may also comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient, which may be chosen especially from antioxidants, film-forming polymers, fragrances, preserving agents, emollients, moisturizers, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, free-radical scavengers and sequestrants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amounts of each of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and range, for example, from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition in accordance with the invention may be in liquid form or in solid form.
  • the composition is in solid form.
  • it may be a cosmetic product chosen from a lip balm and/or a lipstick.
  • This product may preferably be in the form of a stick or cast in a dish.
  • it is a lipstick or a lip balm in stick form.
  • a composition according to the invention may constitute a liquid lipstick for the lips, a body makeup product, a facial or body care product or an antisun product.
  • a composition of the invention is in liquid form.
  • composition according to the invention is homogeneous and stable and gives access to a deposit on the skin or the lips that has good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of gloss, comfort (thickness deposit) and absence of transfer of the deposit.
  • compositions according to the invention enable forming a deposit exhibits no color transfer, in particular on a cup while drinking for a lip product, and when the composition contains one or more colouring agent(s).
  • the percentages are weight percentages and the ranges of values given in the form "between... and" include the stated lower and upper limits. Unless otherwise mentioned, the values in the example below are expressed as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of Examples 1 to 5 were obtained according to the following protocol:
  • the fillers, pigments and/or active agents of the fatty phase were ground in a three-roll mill in part of the oily phase (in PENTAERYTHRITYLTETRAISOSTEARATE).
  • the waxes and the rest of the liposoluble ingredients are introduced into a heating pan and mixed in the heating pan at a temperature of about 100°C with Rayneri blending until a homogeneous mixture was obtained.
  • the ground pigmentary material was then incorporated into the mixture, along with the nacres, if present, and stirring was continued until the mixture was homogeneous.
  • compositions were poured into moulds preheated to 40°C, to produce sticks 11,5 mm in diameter. The whole was then left to cool in a freezer for about one hour, and then placed at room temperature for 24 hours.
  • compositions 1 to 5 at 20°C were evaluated according to the protocol described previously. The measured values of the hardness of the compositions are listed in the table before.
  • the texture obtained was not hard enough to obtain a stick and to measure the value of the hardness.
  • compositions obtained were placed for 72 hours at 24°C and at 47°C in order to evaluate the stability of the composition. More particularly, it is observed if the compositions remain homogenous (no phase separation and/or no exudation for example) and if the stick remain unchanged.
  • compositions were then applied to the lips in order to evaluate the application properties and the characteristics of the deposit obtained; and more particularly the easiness to apply (quantity of composition applied and glidance on application), the shine of the deposit, and the color transfer resistance, particularly on a cup.
  • the color transfer resistance is evaluated after applying the composition and rubbing the lower and the upper lips together for 5 seconds, and by applying the lips on a white pottery cup 5 minutes after applying the compositions on the lips.
  • the shine is evaluated according to the following protocol:
  • composition is applied on Bio Skin (Beaulax) by fixed number of strokes and measure the shine by gloss meter(GM-268, MINOLTA) on the condition of 60degree iUuminating angle and 60degree acceptance angle.
  • the deposit amount is measured by its weight loss after application on the Bio Skin.
  • composition 1 , 2, 3 and 4 are solid enough as not to fracture or crack when it is applied to the hps or on a blenderm. Furthermore, compositions 1, 2, 3, and 4 are stable over time, without exudation or collapse, in particular after 1 month at 24°C, and 47°C. Beside, none of the obtained sticks is collapsing while being placed at 47°C, for compositions 1 , 2, 3, and 4.
  • comparative composition 5 outside the invention containing no non volatile phenylated silicone oil
  • Composition 5 not cosmetically acceptable is to pasty and unhomogeneous to enable forming a homogenous acceptable deposit. No evaluation of the properties of shine and color transfert resistance could be realised.
  • composition 1 and 2 comprising a non volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil, a non volatile non phenylated dimethicone oil and a non volatile phenylated silicone oil are easy to apply on the lips (good and homogenous erosion (fondant, creamy sensation) of the stick while applying, and good or acceptable glide).
  • the deposit obtained on the lips is thick, comfortable, and homogeneous.
  • compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention enable forming a deposit having good or very good color transfer resistance on a cup. At the same time, these deposits obtained with composition 1 and 2 enable exhibit a good level of shine or a moderately good level of shine, but still acceptable.
  • the comparative composition 3 containing a non volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil, a non volatile phenylated silicone oil, but containing no non volatile non phenylated dimethicone oil (these oils have been replace by a phenylated silicone oil) is easy to apply and its deposits on the lips has a good level of shine.
  • the deposit on the lips obtained with composition 3 has only a moderately good level of color transfer resistance whereas the deposits obtained with composition 1 and 2 illustrating the invention have a good or a very good color transfer resistance level (the color transfer resistance level of the deposit obtained with formula 3 is lower than for formula 1 and 2, but better than for comparative formula 4). Therefore, this composition 3 does not meet the objective of the invention.
  • Comparative composition 4 comprising a non volatile non phenylated dimethicone oil and a non volatile phenylated silicone oil but no non volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil (the apolar oil of compositions 1 has been replaced weight by weight by glyceryl isostearate) has a bad color transfer resistance. . Therefore, thought it is easy to apply and has a good level of shine, this composition does not meet the obj ective of the invention.
  • Examples 6 and 7 of cosmetic formulae of solid lip product type The following composition according to the invention was prepared according to the preceding methods (the percentages indicated are weight percentages).
  • a hydrogenated dimer acid (Pripol 1006 from Croda Inc.; 1 lOOg (1.902 mol)), a dimer diol (Pripol 2033, from Croda Inc.; 20.9 g (0.038 mol)), glycerin (74.4 g (0.808 mol)), behenyl alcohol (Stenol 1822A from Cognis; 375.9 g (1.179 mol)) and phytosterol (from ADM, 128.3g (0.314 mol)) were placed in a reactor equipped with a stirrer, a thermometer and a gas introducing tube.
  • the mixture was heated to 210°C to 220°C under a nitrogen stream to carry out an esterification reaction for 41 hours while water produced during the reaction was distilled off. Thereby, 1618g of the target ester was obtained (yield: 99.2%).
  • the obtained ester was a pale yellow compound in the form of a paste (Gardner color: 1 or less; acid value: 4.0; saponification value: 133.6; hydroxyl value: 6.8).
  • compositions were homogeneous and the feeling of moisturizing of the lips was very good

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions, pour le maquillage et/ou les soins de la peau et/ou des lèvres, présentant au moins une phase grasse comprenant : entre 5 et 70% en poids total d'huile(s) apolaire(s) hydrocarbonée(s) non volatile(s), par rapport au poids total de la composition, entre 5 et 40% en poids total d'huile(s) silicone(s) phénylée(s) non volatile(s) comportant au moins une partie diméthicone ou un mélange de celles-ci, par rapport au poids total de la composition et au moins 5% en poids total d'huile silicone phénylée non volatile sélectionnée parmi une huile silicone présentant au moins une partie diméthicone ainsi que parmi les huiles silicones ne présentant pas de partie diméthicone ou un mélange de celles-ci, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
PCT/JP2013/067748 2012-06-21 2013-06-21 Composition cosmétique comprenant une huile diméthicone non volatile, une huile silicone phénylée non volatile et une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile WO2013191306A1 (fr)

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PCT/JP2012/066472 WO2013190710A1 (fr) 2012-06-21 2012-06-21 Composition cosmétique comprenant une huile de diméthicone non volatile, une huile de silicone phénylée non volatile et une huile d'hydrocarbure apolaire non volatile

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PCT/JP2013/067748 WO2013191306A1 (fr) 2012-06-21 2013-06-21 Composition cosmétique comprenant une huile diméthicone non volatile, une huile silicone phénylée non volatile et une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile

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EP0955039A1 (fr) 1998-03-31 1999-11-10 L'oreal Composition topique contenant un ester d'acide ou d'alcool gras ramifié en C24 à C28
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