WO2024089083A1 - Composition solide comprenant de la cire de tournesol, de l'huile de jojoba hydrogénée, une huile non volatile et procédé l'utilisant - Google Patents

Composition solide comprenant de la cire de tournesol, de l'huile de jojoba hydrogénée, une huile non volatile et procédé l'utilisant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024089083A1
WO2024089083A1 PCT/EP2023/079745 EP2023079745W WO2024089083A1 WO 2024089083 A1 WO2024089083 A1 WO 2024089083A1 EP 2023079745 W EP2023079745 W EP 2023079745W WO 2024089083 A1 WO2024089083 A1 WO 2024089083A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
composition
wax
oil
hydrogenated
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PCT/EP2023/079745
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English (en)
Inventor
Roshanak Debeaud
Laure Jouffroy-Wendlinger
Valentin LELOUP
Romain GUITARD
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2024089083A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024089083A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a solid composition intended to be applied to the skin and/or the lips, more particularly for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, which is in the form of a stick, and which comprises particular vegetable waxes, and also to a process using same.
  • compositions intended to be applied to the skin and/or the lips, in particular for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips have been known for a very long time and are in the form of more or less thick fluids.
  • the compositions can take presentation forms with a low viscosity, such as oils and glosses, up to solid compositions in the form of a stick, which may or may not be supported, compositions in pencil form, or else compositions stored in jars.
  • compositions may also be anhydrous or alternatively be in the form of direct (oil-in-water) or invert (water-in-oil) emulsions.
  • the present invention relates more particularly to compositions in stick form comprising little or no water.
  • the compositions have improved their use properties, such as enhancing the wear property or decreasing the migration.
  • compositions also make it possible to obtain matt, satiny or shiny makeup results as a function once again of the ingredients present, for instance silicone or non-silicone volatile oils, silicone elastomers, conveyed or not in at least one oil, and mineral or organic fillers.
  • compositions according to the invention advantageously make it possible to limit the content of ingredients derived in particular from petrochemistry, such as oils of hydrocarbon type, non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as polyethylene or polymethylene waxes, and also of silicone ingredients.
  • the objectives of the present invention are therefore to propose solid cosmetic compositions, in stick form, with a content of ingredients derived from the petroleum industry which is limited or even zero, and which have suitable mechanical properties for an easy, uniform and sufficient application of the composition, without causing the stick to break.
  • the deposit obtained must remain comfortable, non-drying and exhibit little migration, in particular in the wrinkles and fine lines of the region around the lips or eyes.
  • a solid cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin and/or the lips comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one waxy system comprising at least sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil:
  • the sunflower wax content representing 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil representing at least 80% by weight, preferably more than 80% by weight of the waxy system
  • the total content of waxes being between 8% and 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Another subject of the invention is a method consisting in applying said composition to the skin and/or the lips, in particular for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.
  • composition according to the invention is therefore in a solid form, more particularly in the form of a stick, which has the advantage of having a suitable hardness that is compatible with an easy application of the composition, with no breakage of the stick.
  • amount deposited on the lips is suitable, neither too little nor too much, for obtaining a suitable makeup result, in few passes.
  • the deposit obtained is precise, homogeneous, not very tacky, does not migrate much and has a satisfactory wear property over time. The deposit does not dry out the lips either and it remains comfortable.
  • the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by total weight of the composition.
  • the hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:
  • the stick is stored at 20°C for 16 hours before measuring the hardness.
  • the hardness is measured at 20°C by the “cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 0.25 mm, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a rate of 100 mm/min.
  • the hardness of the samples is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing device sold by Indelco-Chatillon.
  • the measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.
  • the average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in metres).
  • the hardness is converted into Nm -1 by the following equation: (Y x 10 -3 x 9.8) / L.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 90 and 220 Nm -1 , preferably 90 and 160 Nm -1 .
  • the measurement is carried out using a dynamic brittleness device from Rematique Electronique Industrielle.
  • the test consists in evaluating the amount of composition deposited on a given support, after having moved the stick positioned flat and parallel on the support, by applying a pressure at the end of the stick of between 75 and 80 g, making one back-and-forth movement per second at constant speed for 3 minutes.
  • the amount deposited is directly calculated by weighing the lipstick and the packaging mechanism (without the cap) before and after the measurement on a precision balance.
  • This test also makes it possible to visually evaluate the resistance of the lipstick (to cracking, breaking, loss of alignment, dislodgement, etc.).
  • the stick is removed as much as possible from the mechanism of the packaging.
  • the lipstick to be tested is placed in a chamber thermostatically controlled at 20°C, 16 hours before the measurement.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably has an amount of composition deposited at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 8 and 35 mg.
  • the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 2000 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one waxy system comprising at least sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil.
  • composition may optionally comprise at least one additional wax, different from the two waxes mentioned above, which will be described in detail below.
  • wax system is understood to mean all the waxes, that is to say the sunflower wax, the hydrogenated jojoba oil and any additional waxes, present in the composition according to the invention.
  • the sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil represent at least 80% by weight, preferably more than 80% by weight, of the waxy system, and advantageously up to 100% by weight of the waxy system.
  • the sunflower wax and the hydrogenated jojoba oil represent from 85% to 95% by weight of the waxy system.
  • the sunflower wax represents between 20% and 95% by weight of the waxy system and the hydrogenated jojoba oil represents between 5% and 80% by weight of the waxy system.
  • the hydrogenated jojoba oil/sunflower wax weight ratio ranges from 0.15 to 7.5, even more particularly from 0.15 to 5.
  • the total wax content represents from 7% to 16% by weight, and preferably from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the sunflower wax (INCI name: HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) is obtained by cooling (winterization) of sunflower seed oil, filtration and lastly refining. It is notably sold by Koster Keunen.
  • the composition according to the invention has a sunflower wax content of between 1.5% and 8% by weight, in particular between 1.8% and 8% by weight, preferably between 2% and 7% by weight, or even between 2% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hydrogenated jojoba oil INCI name Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil
  • Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil is more particularly obtained by catalytic and complete hydrogenation of jojoba oil obtained from Simmondsia chinensis seeds. Complete hydrogenation is understood to mean the production of a compound with an iodine value of less than 2.
  • the hydrogenated jojoba oil is in the form of a solid, the melting temperature of which is between 67°C and 72°C, more particularly from 68°C to 71°C.
  • the hydrogenated jojoba oil is composed mainly of saturated monoesters, comprising from 36 to 48 carbon atoms.
  • the composition according to the invention has a hydrogenated jojoba oil content of between 2% and 12% by weight, more particularly between 3% and 11% by weight, preferably between 3% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional wax, other than sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil.
  • This or these optional wax(es) may be polar or non-polar.
  • a wax is in general a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (20°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 40°C and less than or equal to 120°C, more particularly less than or equal to 90°C.
  • polar hydrocarbon-based wax means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one oxygen, optionally nitrogen, atom. These compounds thus do not contain any silicon atoms.
  • the additional polar hydrocarbon-based wax is chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes comprising an ester function.
  • ester wax means a wax comprising at least one ester function.
  • the ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.
  • R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and the melting point of which ranges from 40°C to 120°C, preferably from 40°C to 100°C.
  • ester wax of a C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate.
  • Such waxes are in particular sold under the names Kester Wax® K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax® K 80 P or Kester Wax® K82H by Koster Keunen.
  • Use may also be made of mixtures of esters of C 14 -C 18 carboxylic acids and of alcohols, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MBAL and Crodamol MS PA from Croda, and Miraceti from Laserson.
  • Partial or total esters preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C 16 -C 30 carboxylic acid with glycerol, for instance glyceryl tristearate (INCI name: Tristearin), glyceryl trihydroxystearate (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin), glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: Tribehenin), alone or as a mixture.
  • glyceryl tristearate INCI name: Tristearin
  • glyceryl trihydroxystearate INCI name: Trihydroxystearin
  • glyceryl tribehenate INCI name: Tribehenin
  • waxes of beeswax, lanolin wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes or laurel wax, which may optionally be refined, and also mixtures thereof.
  • Mention may more particularly be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil and hydrogenated coconut oil.
  • waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil mention may also be made of the waxes with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Stearyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Behenyl Castor Esters.
  • Such waxes are sold in particular under the names PHYTOWAX® Olive 12 L44, PHYTOWAX® Olive 14 L 48, PHYTOWAX® Olive 16 L 55, PHYTOWAX® Olive 18 L 57, PHYTOWAX® Castor 16 L 64, PHYTOWAX® Castor 18 L 69 and PHYTOWAX® Castor 22 L 73 by SOPHIM.
  • Such waxes are described in patent application FR 2 792 190.
  • the additional polar hydrocarbon-based wax(es) are chosen from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, other than sunflower wax; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or else by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional polar hydrocarbon-based wax(es) are chosen from beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes or laurel wax; from hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil or olive oil, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the additional wax(es) are chosen from candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters, hydrogenated olive oil myristyl esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention does not comprise any non-polar hydrocarbon-based wax (in other words constituted only of carbon and hydrogen atoms), resulting from the conversion of petroleum, such as, for example, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes (synthetic wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes), alone or as mixtures.
  • non-polar hydrocarbon-based wax in other words constituted only of carbon and hydrogen atoms
  • petroleum such as, for example, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes (synthetic wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes), alone or as mixtures.
  • compositions were to comprise any, their content would not exceed 5% by weight, preferably would not exceed 3% by weight and advantageously would not exceed 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is free thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one pasty hydrocarbon-based compound.
  • pasty compound means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and including at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • a pasty compound may have a starting melting point of less than 20°C.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for the waxes.
  • the measurement protocol is, however, as follows :
  • a sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
  • this or these pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from:
  • mango butters such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product of which the INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; babassu butter such as the product sold under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, and also orange wax, for example the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen;
  • mango butter such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product of which the INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Ra
  • - totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance;
  • esters resulting from the condensation of a preferably saturated, linear or branched, C 6 -C 10 dicarboxylic acid and of ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, C 6 -C 20 monocarboxylic acids, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and of a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C 6 -C 20 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and hydroxystearic acid, notably sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2);
  • - triglycerides of fatty acids which are optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 -C 18 ; for instance the glycerides of saturated C 12 -C 18 fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES);
  • esters of diol dimer, or of polyol, and of diacid dimer for instance:
  • esters of dimer of dilinoleyl alcohol and of dilinoleic acid the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE);
  • esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
  • esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of the dilinoleic acid dimer such as those sold under the names Risocast-DA-L or Risocast-DA-H by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE).
  • the pasty compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, the esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C 6 -C 10 dicarboxylic acid and of ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, C 6 -C 20 monocarboxylic acids, triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 -C 18 , fatty acids and also mixtures thereof.
  • the pasty compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with the INCI names BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 and HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES, BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, PHYTOSTERYL / ISOSTEARYL / CETYL/STEARYL / BEHENYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the pasty compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with the INCI names BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 and HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES, BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILIN
  • compositions comprises any, their content preferably ranges from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 7% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • non-volatile oil denotes water-insoluble fatty compounds which are liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10 5 Pa), the vapour pressure of which at 20°C is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.
  • the vapour pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure (OECD standard 104).
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen, optionally nitrogen, atom. These oils are thus different from silicone oils. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the composition comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • a polar oil for the purposes of the invention comprises, in addition to the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom and preferably at least one oxygen atom.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon-based group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12;
  • the alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols. They comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxyl alcohols.
  • said alcohol(s) are chosen from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.
  • ethers of formula ROR’ or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR’ in which formulae, the groups R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C 3 -C 16 group.
  • the oil(s) may be chosen from:
  • Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils with ester function(s) are non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils with ester function(s)
  • the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also comprise at least one oil chosen more particularly from hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon-based group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12.
  • the ester oil can optionally comprise one or more ether or hydroxyl functions.
  • ester oils mention may be made of monoesters and diesters optionally comprising one or two ether groups; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters optionally comprising one to three ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of a diol; esters and polyesters of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid and of a dimer diol and of monoalcohols; vegetable oils, and also mixtures thereof.
  • Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic monoesters or diesters comprising more particularly from 12 to 80 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one or two ether groups. Mention may be made, among the compounds of this type, of monoesters or diesters obtained from a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 and preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol, comprising from 2 to 26 and in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12 and preferably at least 16.
  • the ester can optionally comprise one or two ether groups and optionally one or two hydroxyl groups.
  • 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearylneopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyloctanoate, cetyloctanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyle palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stea
  • Suitable in particular for the implementation of the invention are the monoesters of a C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated, and the diesters of a C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated, such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate or bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.
  • Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters comprising up to 80 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one to three ether groups.
  • Suitable for the invention are the esters obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, C 2 -C 40 , preferably C 4 -C 40 , mono- or polycarboxylic acids, which are optionally hydroxylated, and from C 2 -C 40 , preferably C 3 -C 40 , polyols or monoalcohols; said polyesters optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.
  • Use may be made, for example, of triacetin and also triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated C 4 -C 36 fatty acids, more particularly saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 20 fatty acids, such as, for example, triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid; in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, for example such as the products sold under the DUB MCT range by Stearinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triglycerides of C 18-36 acid, such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois), or glyceryl triisostearate.
  • saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, for example such as the products sold under the DUB MCT
  • oils comprising three ester functions, which are optionally hydroxylated or acetylated, of a C 2 -C 8 acid comprising three carboxyl functions, which is optionally hydroxylated, and of a C 2 -C 8 monoalcohol.
  • citric acid esters such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, tributyl acetylcitrate and likewise tridecyl trimellitate, and also mixtures thereof.
  • Tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate).
  • ether groups such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononan
  • esters of a dimer diol or of a polyol, and of a mono- and/or dicarboxylic acid Mention may be made for example of esters of a dimer diol and of a fatty acid and esters of a dimer diol and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid notably of C 8 to C 34 , notably of C 12 to C 22 , in particular of C 16 to C 20 and more particularly of C 18 , such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic dimer diols, having the INCI nine Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, for instance those sold by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and DD-DA7 ® .
  • esters derived from the esterification of a polyol of at least one monocarboxylic acid and of at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in patent US 7 317 068.
  • the polyol comprises more particularly 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, it preferably being pentaerythritol.
  • the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as preferably stearic acid, isostearic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid or combinations thereof; as regards the aromatic, unsaturated or saturated, linear or branched dicarboxylic acid, it comprises more particularly 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably adipic acid.
  • pentaerythrityl isostearate/caprate/caprylate/adipate sold in particular under the name Crodamol L by Croda
  • pentaerythrityl adipate/caprate/caprylate/heptanoate sold under the name Lexfeel 700 EX-LO MB by Inolex.
  • vegetable oils such as for example castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, Rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, maize oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood nut oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter
  • a non-hydroxylated vegetable oil is chosen, and even more advantageously chosen from olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also their mixtures.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from:
  • non-hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils preferably non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, in particular those which have just been listed;
  • ester oils comprising from 1 to 4 ester functions, preferably 3 or 4 ester functions, of which at least one of them, which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms;
  • non-hydroxylated vegetable oils examples include caprylic/capric triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • the content of polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) ranges from 20% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • non-polar oil is intended to mean, for the purposes of the present invention, an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
  • non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, for instance:
  • C 15 -C 28 mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly of C 15 -C 28 , such as the mixtures of which the INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,
  • non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by Ineos, Dekanex by IMCD for instance non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by Ineos, Dekanex by IMCD,
  • the non-polar non-volatile oil is chosen from oils of vegetable origin.
  • the content of non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) ranges from 0.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not comprise any non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s).
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional oil chosen from non-volatile or volatile silicone oils, or from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • volatile oil denotes an oil having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging to 1300 Pa.
  • silicon oil denotes an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and notably containing Si-O groups.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises limited contents of volatile or non-volatile silicone oils.
  • volatile silicone oils of dimethicones with a viscosity of less than 5 cSt (5 x 10 -3 mm2/s, measured in particular according to the ASTM D-445 standard
  • non-volatile silicone oils the latter may be non-phenyl silicone oils, or phenyl silicone oils optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.
  • phenyl(ated) specifies that said oil includes, in its structure, at least one phenyl radical.
  • divalent siloxane fragment denotes a divalent siloxane group, the silicon atom of which bears two methyl radicals, this group not being located at an or at the ends of the molecule. It may be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH 3 ) 2 -O)-.
  • the silicones do not comprise a C 2 -C 3 alkylene oxide group or a glycerolated group.
  • non-volatile non-phenyl silicones mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: DIMETHICONE), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C 2 -C 24 alkyl group, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-volatile phenyl silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment
  • non-volatile phenyl silicone oils with no dimethicone fragment(s) mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, alone or as mixtures.
  • the content of silicone oil(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 2 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition is preferably free thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which are preferably non-polar mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and in particular:
  • C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar, which are sold by Exxon Mobil,
  • the content of volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition is preferably free thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one colorant which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
  • the colorant can be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • pigments means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour the resulting composition and/or deposit.
  • the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
  • mineral pigment refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
  • mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder or copper powder.
  • the following inorganic pigments can also be used: Ta 2 O 5 , Ti 3 O 5 , Ti 2 O 3 , TiO, ZrO 2 as a mixture with TiO 2 , ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , CeO 2 , ZnS.
  • the size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 ⁇ m to 1000 ⁇ m.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the conventional Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from the submicronic to multimicronic; it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles , Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.
  • the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.
  • examples that may be mentioned more particularly include titanium dioxides and iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of pearlescent agents.
  • pearlescent agents should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • the pearlescent agents may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
  • pearlescent agents examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the pearlescent agents can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.
  • the term “stabilized” means lacking the effect of variability of the colour with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, notably interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated by at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
  • This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then convey them.
  • the coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
  • the “coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
  • the surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
  • the surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
  • the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments.
  • the coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
  • the coating may be produced, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
  • the coating may be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578 266.
  • the chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
  • the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone surface agents fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
  • the colorant is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
  • Organic pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
  • the organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17
  • the pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment can also be a lake.
  • lake means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61
  • fat-soluble dye means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with the oily phase, and which is capable of imparting colour.
  • carotenes for instance ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, quinazine green SS) and chlorophylls.
  • xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin
  • the composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight, notably from 1% to 15% by weight and even more particularly from 3% to 15% by weight of colorant(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can also be free of colorant(s).
  • the composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water.
  • the water content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water content if the composition comprises any, does not exceed 1% by weight, notably does not exceed 0.5% by weight and even more particularly does not exceed 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can additionally contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those generally used in the cosmetics field, in particular for makeup and/or care compositions for the skin and the lips.
  • lipophilic thickeners such as silicas, organic gelling agents (organogelators), clays, fillers, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, solvents, active agents, fragrances, and the like.
  • These optional adjuvants may be present in a content which may range up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name.
  • Composition 1 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Masester E7000 Medium Chain Triglycerides, sold by USIM MAS) q.s. for 100 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV); sold by Croda) 30 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (Softisan 649, sold by CREMER OLEO 15 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (Sunflower Wax Double Refined, sold by Koster Keunen) 5.1 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX (820 Light Special Candelilla Real, sold by Multiceras) 1.0 HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (sold by Desert Whale) 3.9 C15-19 Alkane (Emogreen L15, sold by SEPPIC) 4.5 Red 6 4.6 Red 7 2.9 Iron oxides 1.9 Fragrance,
  • the pigments are ground in the portion of oil(s) required for good dispersion, using a three-roll mill or a ball mill.
  • the waxes, the pasty compound and the remainder of the oils are heated to 98°C in a suitable container, so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
  • the pigment/oil(s) mixture from the first step is added to the mixture from the previous step, with stirring.
  • composition is poured into moulds preheated to 42°C.
  • the surface is levelled off and the moulds are placed in the freezer between -25°C and -20°C until the mould comes to a temperature of 4°C.
  • a stick of homogeneous composition, without defects, is obtained.
  • the composition is easy and pleasant to apply, with good slip.
  • the deposit obtained is comfortable and creamy, with good coverage, and provides a satin finish on the lips.
  • the wear property and resistance to migration are satisfactory.
  • composition 2 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (Masester E7000 Medium Chain Triglycerides, sold by USIM MAS) 24.3 PRUNUS ARMENIACA (APRICOT) KERNEL OIL (Apricot kernel oil; sold by Henry Lamotte Oils) 10 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV); sold by Croda) 30 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (Softisan 649, sold by Cremer Oleo) 15 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (Sunflower Wax Double Refined, sold by Koster Keunen) 7.1 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX (820 Light Special Candelilla Real, sold by Multiceras) 1.8 HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (sold by Desert Whale) 1.8 RED 7 3.7 RED 28
  • the pigments are ground in the portion of oil(s) required for good dispersion, using a three-roll mill or a ball mill.
  • the waxes, the pasty compound and the remainder of the oils are heated to 98°C in a suitable container, so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
  • the pigments are added to the mixture from the previous step, with stirring.
  • composition is poured into moulds preheated to 42°C.
  • the surface is levelled off and the moulds are placed in the freezer between -25°C and -20°C until the mould comes to a temperature of 4°C.
  • a stick of homogeneous composition, without defects, is obtained.
  • the composition is easy and pleasant to apply, with good gliding.
  • the deposit obtained is comfortable and creamy, with good coverage, and provides a satin finish on the lips.
  • the wear property and resistance to migration are satisfactory.
  • compositions were prepared:
  • composition 3 Invention Composition C1 comparative CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (Masester E7000 Medium Chain Triglycerides, sold by USIM MAS) 7.5 7.5 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (Softisan 649, sold by Cremer Oleo) 15.0 15.0 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (Sunflower Wax Double Refined, sold by Koster Keunen) 10.0 10.0 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX (820 Light Special Candelilla Real, sold by Multiceras) 1.5 3.0 HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (sold by Desert Whale) 1.5 - PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV); sold by Croda) qsp 100 qsp 100 OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT O
  • the pigments are ground in the portion of oil(s) required for good dispersion, using a three-roll mill or a ball mill.
  • the waxes, the pasty compound and the remainder of the oils are heated to 98°C in a suitable container, so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
  • the pigments are added to the mixture from the previous step, with stirring.
  • composition is poured into moulds preheated to 42°C.
  • the surface is levelled off and the moulds are placed in the freezer between -25°C and -20°C until the mould comes to a temperature of 4°C.
  • Composition 3 Composition C1 Hardness (N.m -1 ) 159 Nm -1 167 Nm -1 Aspect of the stick Sticks of homogeneous composition, without defects Application / depositt Easy application with a satisfying gliding effect, a good creamy sensation.
  • the deposit is homogeneous, not very sticky and comfortable Application remains easy even with a lower gliding effect, and the creamy sensation is less important.
  • the deposit is homogeneous but less comfortable than composition 3.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique solide destinée à être appliquée sur la peau et/ou les lèvres, comprenant au moins une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile et au moins un système à base de cires comprenant au moins de la cire de tournesol et de l'huile de jojoba hydrogénée : - la teneur en cire de tournesol représentant 1 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, - la teneur en huile de jojoba hydrogénée représentant 1 à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, - la cire de tournesol et l'huile de jojoba hydrogénée représentant au moins 80 % en poids du système à base de cires, la teneur totale en cires étant comprise entre 7 et 16 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. L'invention concerne également un procédé de maquillage et/ou de soin de la peau et/ou des lèvres, qui consiste à appliquer ladite composition.
PCT/EP2023/079745 2022-10-27 2023-10-25 Composition solide comprenant de la cire de tournesol, de l'huile de jojoba hydrogénée, une huile non volatile et procédé l'utilisant WO2024089083A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR2211188A FR3141347A1 (fr) 2022-10-27 2022-10-27 Composition solide comprenant de la cire de tournesol, de l’huile de jojoba hydrogenee, une huile non volatile et procede la mettant en œuvre
FRFR2211188 2022-10-27

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FR2679771A1 (fr) 1991-08-01 1993-02-05 Oreal Utilisation pour la teinture temporaire des fibres keratiniques d'un pigment insoluble obtenu par polymerisation oxydante de derives indoliques.
FR2792190A1 (fr) 1999-04-16 2000-10-20 Sophim Procede de fabrication d'un emollient non gras a base de cires-esters
EP1184426A2 (fr) 2000-09-01 2002-03-06 Toda Kogyo Corporation Particules composites, procédé de préparation, pigment et peinte, et composition de résine les utilisants
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