WO2023208802A1 - Procédés de maquillage utilisant un polyphénol et au moins un composé de polyglycérol, et compositions pour la mise en œuvre du procédé - Google Patents

Procédés de maquillage utilisant un polyphénol et au moins un composé de polyglycérol, et compositions pour la mise en œuvre du procédé Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023208802A1
WO2023208802A1 PCT/EP2023/060572 EP2023060572W WO2023208802A1 WO 2023208802 A1 WO2023208802 A1 WO 2023208802A1 EP 2023060572 W EP2023060572 W EP 2023060572W WO 2023208802 A1 WO2023208802 A1 WO 2023208802A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
lips
skin
chosen
Prior art date
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PCT/EP2023/060572
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English (en)
Inventor
Sandrine FERNANDES
Roshanak Debeaud
Marine GUITTOT
Emilie HENIN
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
Priority claimed from FR2204040A external-priority patent/FR3134977A1/fr
Priority claimed from FR2204038A external-priority patent/FR3134986A1/fr
Priority claimed from FR2204041A external-priority patent/FR3134981A1/fr
Priority claimed from FR2204042A external-priority patent/FR3134988A1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2023208802A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023208802A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one compound of polyphenol type, at least one compound Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, at least 25% by weight of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally water in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, and also to processes using same.
  • the invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for human keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips, in which use is made of a coating agent formed by interaction by hydrogen bonding of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, at least one of them being chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol units, and also to compositions enabling such a process to be performed.
  • compositions which comprise a silicone resin as coating agent, for instance trimethyl siloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or which comprise silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates/polytrimethyl siloxymethacrylate copolymer - INCI name).
  • the aim of the present invention is to propose compositions which afford excellent persistence of the expected cosmetic effects, notably the colour of makeup on the skin and the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, to meals, to water, to sweat and perspiration, to sebum, to oil, or even to cleaning products, notably makeup-removing products, such as certain micellar waters, or makeup-removing wipes, for example.
  • the aim of the present invention is to propose compositions which afford persistence of the expected cosmetic effects, notably the colour of the makeup, combined with an acceptable level of comfort.
  • the subject of which is a process for making up the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, which consists in performing the following steps: 1) a coating agent formed in situ or beforehand by interaction by hydrogen bonding of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least one compound Y that is capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, is applied to the skin and/or the lips; the first step taking place in the presence of at least one dyestuff; 2) a composition (M) comprising at least one oil, more particularly in anhydrous form or in the form of an emulsion, is applied to the skin and/or the lips thus treated.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, which consists in performing the following steps: 1) at least one composition (D) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, b) at least one compound Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, c) at least one monoalcohol including from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more particularly including from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and more particularly ethanol, d) at least one dyestuff; is applied to the skin and/or the lips, preferably to the lips, 2) a composition (M) comprising at least one oil, more particularly in anhydrous form or in the form of an emulsion, is applied to the skin and/or the lips thus treated.
  • D composition
  • D comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different
  • compositions (A) and (B) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two phenol groups; and 1.b) at least one composition (B) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units; said compositions (A) and (B) being applied to the skin and/or the lips i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use; or iii) successively, irrespective of the order of application; one and/or the other of the compositions (A) and (B) comprising at least one dyestuff, preferably composition (A); 2) a composition (M) comprising at least one oil, more particularly in anhydrous form or in the form of an emul
  • a subject of the invention is also a composition (composition (D)) for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition, comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units; c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 and more particularly C2-C5 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol or isopropanol; d) optionally water in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; e) at least one dyestuff.
  • composition (D) for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition, comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y
  • composition (D) for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition, comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, b) at least two compounds Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, at least one of the compounds Y being chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol units; preferably, at least one of the compounds Y is polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, and c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one monoalcohol including from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more particularly including from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol or isopropanol, d) optionally water in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a subject of the invention is also a makeup and/or care process which consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips, preferably to the lips, at least one of the compositions as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, which consists in performing the following steps: 1) one of the compositions as defined previously is applied to the skin and/or the lips; 2) a composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and/or the lips thus treated.
  • the present invention relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, which consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips, preferably to the lips: a) at least one composition (A) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; and b) at least one composition (B) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, at least one of the compounds Y being chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol units; preferably, at least one of the compounds Y is polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate; said compositions (A) and (B) being applied to the skin and/or the lips i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use; or iii) successively,
  • the skin refers to the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), of the body and of the hands.
  • compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This means that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable means compatible with the skin and/or the lips, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
  • hydrogen bonding interaction means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reagents and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reagent, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine.
  • the hydrogen bond(s) are formed between the hydroxyl function(s) (OH) of the reactive phenol group(s) of the polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of compound Y which is capable of reacting by hydrogen bonding with the polyphenol X.
  • the present invention more particularly comprises the use of a coating agent obtained by hydrogen bonding interaction of at least one polyphenol X with at least one compound Y. More particularly, said coating agent is in a latent state in the composition according to the invention and only fully appears when in situ , i.e. once the composition is applied to the skin and/or the lips.
  • the conditions are such that they do not favour the interaction of the polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other.
  • these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.
  • composition according to the invention is advantageously in a liquid form.
  • room temperature means 25°C.
  • atmospheric pressure means 760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 pascals.
  • the polyphenols X that may be used according to the present invention include in their structure at least two different phenol groups.
  • polyphenol means any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds (i.e.: groups), in free or fused form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl (OH) group, preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • phenol groups refers to phenol groups that are chemically different.
  • the polyphenols X that may be used according to the invention may be synthetic or natural. They may be in isolated form or contained in a mixture, notably contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenol groups that are differently substituted on the aromatic ring.
  • the two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.
  • flavonoids examples include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin or naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidze
  • non-flavonoids examples include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.
  • polyphenols X that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted with phenols.
  • the polyphenol will be chosen from catechin tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castalin, casuarictin, castanopsinins, excoecarianins, grandinin, notn, roburins, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, repandisinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurin, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodeshydrodigalloyl, dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin and rhoipteleanins.
  • catechin tannins such as gal
  • the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract having the INCI name Green Tea Extract, notably comprising at least 45% epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract, for instance the commercial product sold under the name Dermofeel Phenon 90 M-C® sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name Tea Polyphenols Green Tea Extract® by Tayo Green Power.
  • the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark having the INCI name Pinus pinaster Bark/Bud Extract, notably comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract, such as the commercial product sold under the name Pycnogenol® sold by Bio prises Ariquess.
  • Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X.
  • This compound is notably sold under the name Brewtan F by the company Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv.
  • the polyphenol content is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2% and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the compound(s) Y that are capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X are thus chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units.
  • the compound(s) Y, in the medium of the composition do not include an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are nonionic.
  • the compound(s) Y are chosen from compounds with a molar mass of greater than 200 g/mol, or even greater than 350 g/mol.
  • the compounds Y are chosen from esters of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and of saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid(s) or carboxylic acid polymer(s), comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and derived from plant oils, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the compounds Y are chosen from nonionic esters of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and of saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid(s), comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or derived from plant oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the carboxylic acids may also comprise 1 to 3 carboxylic groups, and preferably are monocarboxylic acids.
  • the polyglycerol compounds are more particularly mono-, di- or tri- esters.
  • Examples of compounds Y that may be mentioned include the following compounds, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Poylglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Trilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, polyglycerolated apricot kernel oil esters comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the compounds Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X are chosen from at least two compounds Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, at least one of the compounds Y being chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol units.
  • the compounds Y are chosen from the following compounds, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate , Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Dioleate, and mixtures thereof. According to an even more preferred mode, at least one of the compounds Y is Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate.
  • composition comprises at least one compound Y, advantageously it comprises at least two, or even three compounds Y.
  • the content of compound(s) Y is at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, and even more advantageously between 3% and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material ranges between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
  • composition(s) according to the invention or implemented according to the present invention preferably comprise(s) at least one C 2 -C 8 and more particularly C 2 -C 5 monoalcohol.
  • C 2 -C 8 and more particularly C 2 -C 5 monoalcohol.
  • the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol is such that the compounds X and Y do not react together in the composition, before its application.
  • Said monoalcohol can thus be regarded as a hydrogen-bonding inhibitor.
  • the term “hydrogen-bonding inhibitor” refers to any compound which is capable of preventing hydrogen bonding interaction between the polyphenol X and the compound Y and/or which is capable of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonding.
  • the content of C 2 -C 8 and preferably C 2 -C 5 monoalcohol, and more particularly ethanol is greater than 25% by weight, preferably between 25% and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30% and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition(s) according to the invention or implemented according to the present invention may optionally comprise water. It may be a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the water content is less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water content of the composition is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits inclusive, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the water content is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition is anhydrous. It should be noted that in such a case, water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small amounts or even in trace amounts in the various products used.
  • the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, and more particularly ranges from 2 to 6.
  • composition(s) according to the invention or implemented according to the present invention may also comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or ingredients (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • composition(s) according to the invention or implemented according to the invention which is/are preferably liquid, may comprise an oily phase.
  • oil phase refers to a phase which is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one fatty substance other than the compounds Y, such as oils, waxes or pasty substances and also optionally all the organic solvents and ingredients that are soluble or miscible in said phase.
  • the oil(s) may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • oil refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • silicon oil refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil refers to an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. These oils are thus different from silicone oils.
  • volatile oil refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.
  • non-volatile oil refers to an oil that remains on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa.
  • the vapour pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure (standard OCDE 104).
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils examples include those chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of the hydrocarbon type (i.e. apolar hydrocarbon-based oils consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) and of the ester type.
  • they may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and notably: - branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, - linear alkanes, for example C 11 -C 15 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, - branched C 8 -C 16 esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, - mixtures thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, notably those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis.
  • volatile silicone oils mention may be made, inter alia , of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • oils examples include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures.
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions, and preferably hydroxyl, ester or ether.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and notably from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may notably be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil
  • Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA®; - linear fatty acid esters and polyesters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 80, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate; - esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty
  • the oil may also be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • linear or branched, non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon type).
  • Said linear or branched apolar oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance: - liquid paraffin, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly of C 15 -C 28 , such as the mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-C21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-C28 Alkane (INCI name), for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC, - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers, - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes,
  • the non-volatile oil may also be chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups, notably such as (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group.
  • the phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is chosen from dimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicones and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the concentration of the oily phase of the composition is between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 1% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the oily phase if it is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
  • the oil(s) are chosen from polar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils.
  • the non-volatile oil is not chosen from non-volatile silicone oils.
  • the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil. More particularly, the content of volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil, is less than or equal to 20% by weight, notably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not comprise any volatile silicone oil.
  • composition(s) according to the invention or implemented according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one wax.
  • the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 40°C that may be up to 120°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measuring protocol is as follows: A sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a “hermetic aluminium capsule” crucible. The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point value of the wax is measured, which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes or silicone waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes and polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, which are preferably esters, and also mixtures thereof.
  • apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes i.e. waxes comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure
  • polar hydrocarbon-based waxes i.e. comprising carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms
  • waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester and/or ether group.
  • Hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax, and also mixtures thereof, may notably be used as waxes.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains.
  • C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate waxes are also suitable for use, alone or as a mixture, or a C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate.
  • Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
  • alcohol waxes mention may be made of linear, saturated C 30 -C 50 alcohol mixtures such as the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
  • the wax content if the composition comprises any, generally ranges between 0.1% and 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition(s) according to the invention or implemented according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one pasty compound.
  • the term “pasty compound” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and including at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • a pasty compound can exhibit a starting melting point of less than 20°C.
  • the pasty compound can have, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that described in detail above for the waxes.
  • the measuring protocol is, however, as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and it is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
  • this or these pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from:
  • mango butters such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; babassu butter such as the product sold under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, and also orange wax, for example the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
  • mango butter such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarl
  • - partially hydrogenated plant oils for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut kernel, palm and rapeseed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
  • polyesters obtained from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C6-C20 monocarboxylic acids notably such as the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and having the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2.
  • This type of compound is notably sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.
  • esters of diol dimer for example of dilinoleyl alcohol
  • dilinoleic acid for example the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols, of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilino
  • the pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, compounds having the INCI name Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and also mixtures thereof.
  • composition comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon-based compound
  • its/their content is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition (D) for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition, comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units; c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 and more particularly C2-C5 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol or isopropanol; d) optionally water in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; e) at least one dyestuff.
  • composition (D) for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition, comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to
  • composition (D) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one polyphenol X as defined previously, b) at least two compounds Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units as defined previously, at least one of the compounds Y being chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol units, and preferably at least one of the compounds Y is polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, and c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one monoalcohol including from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more particularly including from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably ethanol or isopropanol, even more preferentially ethanol.
  • composition (D) the coating agent is in a latent state and only fully appears when in situ , i.e. once composition (D) is applied to the skin and/or the lips.
  • the conditions are such that they do not favour the interaction of the polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other.
  • these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.
  • the content of polyphenol X in composition (D) is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2% and 30% by weight, even more particularly from 3% to 25% by weight, and even more preferentially between 5% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
  • the content of compounds Y in composition (D) represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% and even more preferentially from 3% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material ranges between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
  • the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol, more particularly C2-C5 monoalcohol, notably ethanol, is such that the compounds X and Y do not react in composition (D) before its application.
  • Said monoalcohol can thus be regarded as a hydrogen-bonding inhibitor.
  • the term “hydrogen-bonding inhibitor” refers to any compound which is capable of preventing hydrogen bonding interaction between the polyphenol X and the compounds Y and/or which is capable of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonding.
  • the C2-C8 monoalcohol content is at least 25% by weight, notably between 25% and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30% and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).
  • composition (D) comprises water.
  • it may be a demineralized water, or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • composition (D) comprises a water content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the water content of composition (D) is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits included, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, and more particularly ranges from 2 to 6.
  • composition may also comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or ingredients (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • composition (D) comprises an oily phase.
  • composition (D) comprises any
  • the oily phase content is between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 1% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the oily phase if it is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
  • the oil(s) are chosen from polar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils.
  • the non-volatile oil is not chosen from non-volatile silicone oils.
  • the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil. More particularly, the content of volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil is less than or equal to 20% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition (D) does not comprise any volatile silicone oil.
  • Composition (D) is advantageously in a liquid form.
  • Composition (D) may also comprise at least one wax. Reference may be made to the list indicated previously.
  • the wax content, if the composition (D) comprises any, generally ranges between 0.1% and 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • composition (D) may optionally comprise at least one pasty compound, as described previously. If composition (D) comprises any, the content of pasty compound(s) is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Composition (A) more particularly has a polyphenol(s) X content of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A).
  • the polyphenol(s) X content is between 2% and 50% by weight, preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
  • composition (A) comprises water. It may be, for example, a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water. More particularly, the water content is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A).
  • Composition (A) may also comprise at least one C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol. Examples that may be mentioned include ethanol, isopropanol and butanol, preferably ethanol and isopropanol and even more preferentially ethanol.
  • the content of C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol, more particularly ethanol is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A).
  • composition (A) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, more particularly ranging from 2 to 6.
  • Composition (A) may also comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or ingredients (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • composition (A) is anhydrous.
  • anhydrous composition refers to any composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of water.
  • water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small amounts or even in trace amounts in the various products used.
  • composition (A) comprises an oily phase.
  • composition (A) is anhydrous
  • the oily phase preferably comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more preferentially chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin such as isodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, and more particularly isododecane.
  • Composition (A) may optionally comprise at least one wax. Reference may be made to the list detailed previously.
  • Composition (A) may optionally comprise at least one pasty compound.
  • the pasty compounds listed previously are suitable for use and reference may be made thereto.
  • the pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, compounds having the INCI name Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and also mixtures thereof.
  • composition (A) When composition (A) is anhydrous, the concentration of the oily phase of said composition is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly ranges from 20% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition relative to the total weight of composition (A).
  • composition (A) comprises an oily phase, it comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil. It preferably does not contain any volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.
  • the content of compounds Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 75% by weight and preferably from 2% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).
  • composition (B) comprising the compound(s) Y comprises at least water. It may be, for example, a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the amount of water is preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 30% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).
  • Composition (B) may also comprise at least one C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol.
  • C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol By way of example, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol and butanol, preferably ethanol and isopropanol, preferably ethanol.
  • the content of C2-C8 and preferably C2-C5 monoalcohol, more particularly ethanol is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 35% to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (B).
  • composition (B) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0, more particularly ranging from 2 to 6.
  • Composition (B) may also comprise other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or ingredients (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
  • polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol
  • C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, and dipropylene glycol.
  • composition (B) is anhydrous.
  • composition (B) may comprise at least one oily phase as defined previously.
  • composition (B) is anhydrous
  • the oily phase preferably comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, more preferentially chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isodecane, isohexadecane and isododecane, and more particularly isododecane.
  • C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin also known as isoparaffins
  • composition (B) is anhydrous
  • the oily phase concentration of the composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, more particularly ranging from 20% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
  • composition (B) comprises an oily phase, it comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil. It preferably does not contain any volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.
  • compositions (A) and (B) so that they are compatible and can be mixed and the amounts for obtaining, in the mixture obtained, the formation of a coating agent by hydrogen bonding interaction of the polyphenol X with the compounds Y as defined.
  • composition(s) according to the invention or implementedaccording to the invention may optionally comprise at least one dyestuff, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
  • the content of dyestuff(s) in the composition is advantageously at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between 0.05% and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the dyestuff(s) may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • pigments means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit.
  • the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.
  • mineral pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
  • mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder.
  • the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta 2 O 5 , Ti 3 O 5 , Ti 2 O 3 , TiO, ZrO 2 as a mixture with TiO 2 , ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , CeO 2 , ZnS.
  • the size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ m and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ m.
  • the sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 ⁇ m to 1000 ⁇ m.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an “effective” particle diameter to be determined. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles , Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.
  • the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.
  • iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the nacres can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
  • pigments that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect different from a simple conventional colouring effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect such as produced by conventional dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments.
  • stabilized means lacking the effect of variability of the colour with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, notably interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
  • composition(s) according to the invention comprise(s) at least one uncoated pigment.
  • composition(s) according to the invention comprise(s) at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
  • This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then convey them.
  • the coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
  • the “coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed on, adsorbed on or grafted to said pigment.
  • the surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to a person skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
  • the surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
  • the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments.
  • the coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
  • the coating may be produced, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
  • the coating may be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578 266.
  • the chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
  • the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating
  • the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
  • the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone surface agents fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
  • the dyestuff is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
  • organic pigment refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
  • the organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17
  • the pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment may also be a lake.
  • the term “lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61
  • the pigment(s) are preferably present in contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly of at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the dyestuff content is less than 30% by weight, more particularly between 0.05% and 30% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the dyestuff is a water-soluble dye or a liposoluble dye.
  • water-soluble dyestuff means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.
  • liposoluble dyestuff means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with the oily phase, and which is capable of imparting colour.
  • water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1.
  • FDC Red 4 DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33
  • DC Orange 4 DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1.
  • anthocyanins Among the natural water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of anthocyanins.
  • liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made, for instance, of the liposoluble dyes DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red and Sudan brown.
  • carotenes for instance ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, quinazine green SS) and chlorophylls.
  • xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin
  • the water-soluble or liposoluble dye(s) are preferably present in the composition in contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition(s) according to the present invention or implemented according to the invention may also comprise any additional ingredient that is common in the field. Mention may notably be made of antioxidants, preserving agents, neutralizers, gelling agents or thickeners, surfactants, cosmetic active agents, for instance emollients, moisturizers or vitamins, and mixtures thereof.
  • the antioxidants are used to prevent the oxidation of the polyphenol X. They may be chosen from ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, erythorbic acid, citric acid, sulfites and metabisulfite, and reducing agents of thiol type, in particular cysteine. Mention may also be made of carotenes and lycopenes, which also act as liposoluble dyes.
  • compositions (A), (B), (C) and/or (D) may be present in compositions (A), (B), (C) and/or (D) in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15.0% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions may be manufactured via the known processes, generally used in the field of cosmetics.
  • They may be care, makeup or hybrid products (with a care and makeup valency) for keratin materials such as the skin, the eye contour and the lips.
  • the composition is applied to the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting in applying successively, regardless of the order of application to the skin and/or the lips: a) at least one composition (A) as defined previously; and b) at least one composition (B) as defined previously; composition (A) and/or composition (B) advantageously containing at least one dyestuff.
  • the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material ranges between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.
  • A makeup composition
  • B top coat
  • said makeup composition (A) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (B) is aqueous.
  • said makeup composition (A) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (B) is anhydrous.
  • said makeup composition (A) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (B) is aqueous.
  • said makeup composition (A) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (B) is anhydrous.
  • said makeup composition (B) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (A) is aqueous.
  • said makeup composition (B) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (A) is anhydrous.
  • said makeup composition (B) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (A) is aqueous.
  • said makeup composition (B) is anhydrous and the post-treatment composition (A) is anhydrous.
  • a first pretreatment layer with a composition (A) as defined previously, and then b) onto the skin and/or the lips thus treated, a second makeup layer (top coat) with a composition (B) as defined previously, comprising at least one compound Y and at least one dyestuff.
  • said pretreatment composition (A) is aqueous and the makeup composition (B) is aqueous.
  • said pretreatment composition (A) is aqueous and the makeup composition (B) is anhydrous.
  • said pretreatment composition (A) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (B) is aqueous.
  • said pretreatment composition (A) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (B) is anhydrous.
  • a first pretreatment layer with a composition (B) as defined previously, and then b) onto the skin and/or the lips thus treated, a second makeup layer (top coat) with a composition (A) as defined previously, comprising at least one dyestuff.
  • said pretreatment composition (B) is aqueous and the makeup composition (A) is aqueous.
  • said pretreatment composition (B) is aqueous and the makeup composition (A) is anhydrous.
  • said pretreatment composition (B) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (A) is aqueous.
  • said pretreatment composition (B) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (A) is anhydrous.
  • variants 1 to 4 defined previously, use will preferably be made of variants 1 and 2, in which a first coat of makeup is applied with composition (A) or composition (B) containing said dyestuff(s).
  • composition (A) and/or the makeup composition (B) comprises an anhydrous support comprising an oily phase.
  • a first makeup layer with a preferably anhydrous composition (B) as defined previously, comprising at least one dyestuff, preferably a pigment, and then b) onto the skin and/or the lips thus coloured, a second post-treatment layer (top coat) with an aqueous composition (A) as defined previously.
  • Another cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, according to the invention consists in applying to the skin and/or the lips at least one composition (D) as defined previously.
  • Composition (D) may advantageously comprise at least one dyestuff.
  • composition according to the invention is used in a process comprising the following steps: 1) a composition according to the invention as described previously is applied to the skin and/or the lips; 2) a composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and/or the lips thus treated.
  • the second composition (composition (M)) is applied onto the first composition, without mixing.
  • the second composition is applied after the composition applied in the first step has at least partially dried.
  • the second composition is applied a few minutes after the first.
  • compositions (A) and (B) are identical with compositions (A) and (B)
  • the present invention relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, which consists in successively applying: a) a layer formed by application to the skin and/or the lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, in any order: a)1) at least one composition (A) as defined previously; and a)2) at least one composition (B) as defined previously; b) onto the skin and/or the lips thus treated, a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil.
  • said process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips consists in applying successively: a) a first layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil and at least one dyestuff; and b) onto the first coloured layer, a second layer formed by application to the skin and/or the lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, in any order: b)1) at least one composition (A) as defined previously; and b)2) at least one composition (B) as defined previously.
  • M at least one composition
  • B at least one composition
  • compositions (A) and (B) on the one hand and of composition (M) on the other hand irrespective of the order of application, is advantageously performed without mixing. More particularly, it is preferable for the composition of the second step to be applied once the composition of the first step has at least partially dried. As a guide, the second step is performed a few minutes after the first.
  • Another process for making up the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, consists in successively applying: a) a layer consisting of at least one composition (D) as defined previously; the composition (D) applied comprising at least one dyestuff, and b) a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil.
  • Another process for making up the skin and/or the lips according to the invention consists in successively applying: a) a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil and at least one dyestuff; and b) onto the first coloured layer, a second layer consisting of at least one composition (D) as defined previously.
  • M at least one composition
  • D at least one composition
  • composition (D) on the one hand and of composition (M) on the other hand irrespective of the order of application, is advantageously performed without mixing. More particularly, it is preferable for the composition of the second step to be applied once the composition of the first step has at least partially dried. As a guide, the second step is performed a few minutes after the first.
  • Composition (M) may comprise at least one oil. Reference may be made to the description of the oils given previously.
  • Composition (M) may also optionally comprise at least one dyestuff chosen from those defined previously.
  • Composition (M) may advantageously comprise at least one silicone or non-silicone film-forming polymer, or a mixture.
  • silicone film-forming polymers examples include silicone resins, such as the resins whose INCI names are as follows: trimethyl siloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and also mixtures thereof. Also suitable for use are polymers having the following INCI names: acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates/dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
  • the film-forming polymer may also be chosen from ethylcellulose, or ethylenic block copolymers, for instance acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name).
  • composition (M) comprises any, the content of film-forming polymer(s) advantageously ranges between 0.1% and 50% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (M).
  • Composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product, such as pasty compounds, in particular hydrocarbon-based compounds, for instance compounds such as plant butters (e.g. shea butter), ester compounds derived from dimerdiol dimerdilinoleate (e.g.
  • waxes notably hydrocarbon-based waxes, polar waxes (for example of ester type) or apolar waxes (for example polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, etc.); organic solvents; thickeners; colourless or white, lamellar or spherical fillers, or fillers in the form of fibres; cosmetic active ingredients such as vitamins, solar UV-screening agents, moisturizers, antioxidants.
  • Composition (M) may or may not comprise water.
  • Composition (M) may be a product, notably for making up and/or caring for the skin, the face, the cheeks or the eye contour. If these compositions (M) are intended for makeup, then they contain at least one dyestuff as defined previously.
  • compositions (M) for the skin are preferably gels, creams, milks or lotions. They may be aqueous dispersions, oily anhydrous compositions or multi-phase compositions such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, or two-phase or three-phase compositions.
  • compositions (M) for the skin may also be in hot-cast solid form.
  • compositions (M) for the skin may also be eyeshadows or face powders, and are more particularly in the form of loose or compact powder.
  • compact powder means a mass of product whose cohesion is at least partly provided by compacting during the manufacture.
  • loose powder means a mass of product that is capable of collapsing under its own weight; such a mass being formed by particles that are predominantly isolated and mobile relative to each other.
  • the makeup compositions (M) in the form of loose or compact powder which are preferably anhydrous, generally comprise at least one powder phase, in a content notably greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which may represent a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Composition (M) may be a product intended to be applied to the lips, notably a lipstick, a lip gloss or a lip balm.
  • the lip compositions (M) may be in solid form such as a wand or products in a dish or alternatively in liquid form.
  • They may be anhydrous or aqueous, notably water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions.
  • Composition (M) may also be an eyeliner which is preferably an aqueous composition with at least one film-forming polymer, notably in the form of a particle dispersion (latex).
  • the process according to the invention is performed in the presence of a composition (M) in emulsion form.
  • It may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (continuous aqueous phase in which is dispersed an oily phase in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture) or a water-in-oil emulsion (continuous oily phase in which is dispersed an aqueous phase in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture).
  • composition (M) The water content of composition (M) varies according to the nature of the emulsion.
  • the amount of water may range between 10% and 90% by weight, more particularly between 20% and 70% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (M).
  • the aqueous phase of the emulsion may optionally comprise water-soluble solvents such as those indicated previously.
  • the pH of the aqueous composition is preferably less than 8.0, more preferentially less than 7.0 and more particularly ranges from 2 to 6.
  • Composition (M) comprises at least one lipophilic phase.
  • the lipophilic phase content of composition (M) varies according to the nature of the emulsion.
  • the amount of lipophilic phase may range between 10% and 90% by weight, more particularly between 20% and 70% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (M).
  • lipophilic phase refers to a phase that is immiscible with the aqueous phase and which comprises at least one fatty substance such as oils, waxes or pasty substances and also optionally all the organic solvents and ingredients that are soluble or miscible in said phase. It should be noted that if the lipophilic phase is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, the lipophilic phase is an oily phase.
  • oils reference may be made to that which was previously indicated for the description of the oily phase of compositions (A) to (D).
  • composition (M) comprises at least one non-volatile silicone or hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • the phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is chosen from dimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicones and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones, and also mixtures thereof.
  • ester oils for instance triglycerides of fatty acids (C4-C36) and of glycerol, notably capric/caprylic triglycerides, plant oils, fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, and synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; and mixtures thereof.
  • ester oils for instance triglycerides of fatty acids (C4-C36) and of glycerol, notably capric/caprylic triglycerides, plant oils, fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, and synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; and mixtures thereof.
  • It may also comprise at least one volatile silicone or hydrocarbon-based oil, for instance volatile cyclic or linear silicones, branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes and more especially isododecane, and also mixtures thereof.
  • volatile silicone or hydrocarbon-based oil for instance volatile cyclic or linear silicones, branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes and more especially isododecane, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the content of oil in composition (M) ranges from 10% to 90% by weight and preferably from 20% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Composition (M) may optionally comprise at least one wax. Reference may be made to the description just above on this subject.
  • the wax content varies according to the presentation form of the composition, if the composition contains any.
  • the wax content if this type of ingredient is present in the composition, ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • Composition (M) may optionally comprise at least one pasty compound, which is preferably hydrocarbon-based, lists of which have been given previously.
  • composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based pasty compound
  • their content preferably ranges from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition (M) comprises at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, notably chosen from hydrocarbon-based block polymers; from silicone polymers notably such as silicone resins, silicone acrylate polymers bearing carbosiloxane dendrimer units, silicone acrylate copolymers; ethylcellulose, and also mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophobic film-forming polymer notably chosen from hydrocarbon-based block polymers; from silicone polymers notably such as silicone resins, silicone acrylate polymers bearing carbosiloxane dendrimer units, silicone acrylate copolymers; ethylcellulose, and also mixtures thereof.
  • a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin within the meaning of the present invention.
  • silicone resins also known as siloxane resins
  • MDTQ silicone resins
  • the letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula R1R2R3SiO 1/2 , the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
  • the letter D means a difunctional unit R1R2SiO 2/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
  • T represents a trifunctional unit of formula R1SiO 3/2 .
  • Ri namely R 1 , R 2 and R 3 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon-based radical (notably alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.
  • the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit SiO 4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
  • silicone resins with different properties may be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying as a function of the type of monomer (or unit), the nature and number of the radical(s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the side chains.
  • silicone resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, use may be made, for example, of silicone resins of MQ type, of T type or of MQT type.
  • silicone resins of MQ type mention may be made of the alkyl siloxysilicates of formula [(R1) 3 SiO 1/2 ] x (SiO 4/2 ) y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined previously, and is preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.
  • solid silicone resins of MQ type of trimethyl siloxysilicate type mention may be made of those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company Momentive Performance Materials, under the reference MQ 1600 by Dow Corning or under the reference Belsil TMS 803 by the company Wacker.
  • silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units
  • phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials).
  • the preparation of such resins is notably described in patent US 5 817 302.
  • silicone resins of T type examples include the polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO 3/2 ) x (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes also possibly comprising Si-OH end groups.
  • polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted with another group.
  • polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described, for example, in US 5 246 694.
  • Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins that may preferably be used are those in which R represents a methyl group, for instance those sold: - by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising CH 3 SiO 3/2 repeating units (units T), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH 3 ) 2 SiO 2/2 units (units D) and having an average molecular weight of about 10 000 g/mol, or - by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR-220L, which are composed of units T of formula CH 3 SiO 3/2 and contain Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A, which comprise 98% of units T and 2% of dimethyl units D and contain Si-OH end groups, or else under the reference KR-251, comprising 88% of units T and 12% of dimethyl units D and contain Si-OH end groups, - by the company Dow Corning under the references Dow Corning 670 Fluid,
  • Resins comprising MQT units that are notably known are those mentioned in US 5 110 890.
  • a preferred form of resins of MQT type are MQT-propyl (also known as MQTPr) resins.
  • MQT-propyl resins Such resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are notably the resins described and prepared in patent application WO 2005/075 542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.
  • the siloxane resins that may be used according to the invention may be obtained via a process comprising the reaction of: A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R1 3 SiO 1/2 ) a and (SiO 4/2 ) d , R1 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greater than zero, the ratio a/d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R3SiO 3/2 ) c , R3 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, c being greater than zero, with the proviso that at least 40 mol% of the groups R3 are propyl groups, where the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85, preferably the mass ratio A/B is
  • the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85.
  • the ratio A/B is less than or equal to 70/30. These preferred ratios have proven to afford comfortable deposits.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises, as silicone resin, at least one MQ type resin, T type resin, and even more preferentially at least one MQ type resin, as described previously.
  • the silicone resin is a siloxysilicate resin, preferably a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
  • the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a block ethylenic copolymer containing at least a first block with a glass transition temperature (T g ) of greater than or equal to 40°C and being derived, totally or partly, from one or more first monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40°C, and at least a second block with a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°C and being derived, totally or partly, from one or more second monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°C, said first block and said second block being linked together via a random intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first constituent monomers of the first block and at least one of said second constituent monomers of the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I of greater than 2.
  • T g glass transition temperature
  • Vinyl polymer comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer unit
  • composition (M) may comprise at least one vinyl polymer comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit.
  • This type of vinyl polymer notably has a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
  • Vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer unit as described in patent applications WO 03/045 337 and EP 963 751 by the company Dow Corning may be used in particular.
  • carbosiloxane dendrimer structure represents a molecular structure containing branched groups of high molecular masses, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction starting from the bond to the backbone.
  • Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in laid-open Japanese patent application Kokai 9-171 154.
  • the monomer of vinyl type that is component (A) in the vinyl polymer is a monomer of vinyl type that contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.
  • this monomer of vinyl type methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate or a methacrylate of an analogous lower alkyl; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate or a higher-analogue methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate or a vinyl ester of an analogous lower alkyl; vinyl
  • Multifunctional monomers of vinyl type may also be used.
  • trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate pentaerythrityl trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropane trioxyethylmethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane capped with styryl groups possessing divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or analogous silicone compounds containing unsaturated groups.
  • the number-average molecular mass of the vinyl polymer which contains a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be chosen within the range between 3000 g/mol and 2 000 000 g/mol and preferably between 5000 g/mol and 800 000 g/mol. It may be a liquid, gum, paste, solid, powder, or any other form.
  • the preferred forms are solutions formed by dilution of a dispersion or of a powder in solvents such as a silicone oil or an organic oil.
  • a vinyl polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of patent application EP 0 963 751.
  • a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be the product of polymerization of: (A) from 0.1 to 99 parts by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomers; and (B) from 100 to 0.1 part by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.
  • a vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit may comprise a tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit corresponding to one of the formulae: [Chem 4] or [Chem 5]
  • a vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.
  • a vinyl polymer may also comprise at least one fluoro organic group.
  • a fluorinated vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in the examples of patent application WO 03/045 337.
  • a vinyl polymer grafted in the sense of the present invention may be conveyed in an oil or a mixture of oils, which are preferably volatile, chosen in particular from silicone oils and hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • a silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be cyclopentasiloxane.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be isododecane.
  • Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit that may be particularly suitable for use in the present invention are the polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100, TIB 4-101, TIB 4-120, TIB 4-130, TIB 4-200, FA 4002 ID (TIB 4-202), TIB 4-220 and FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow Corning.
  • the polymers sold under the names FA 4002 ID (TIB 4-202) and FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow Corning will preferably be used.
  • the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit that may be used in a composition of the invention is a copolymer having the INCI name Acrylates/polytrimethyl siloxymethacrylate copolymer, notably the product sold in isododecane under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate by the company Dow Corning.
  • composition (M) comprises at least one copolymer including carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.
  • copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups means a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more carboxylic (acid or ester) monomers, and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.
  • carboxylic monomer means both carboxylic acid monomers and carboxylic acid ester monomers.
  • the monomer (a) may be chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, esters thereof and mixtures of these monomers.
  • Esters that may be mentioned include the following monomers: acrylate, methacrylate, maleate, fumarate, itaconate and/or crotonate.
  • the monomers in ester form are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, preferably C 1 -C 24 and better still C 1 -C 22 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, the alkyl radical preferably being chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl and 2-ethylhexyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.
  • the copolymer comprises as carboxylate groups at least one group chosen from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl or 2-ethylhexyl acrylate or methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
  • polydimethylsiloxanes also called organopolysiloxanes or abbreviated as PDMSs
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the PDMS chains that may be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention include at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, i.e. the PDMS may contain, for example, a polymerizable radical group on the two ends of the chain or one polymerizable radical group on one end of the chain and one trimethylsilyl end group on the other end of the chain.
  • copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by free-radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or on both ends) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described, for example, in documents US-A-5 061 481 and US-A-5 219 560.
  • the copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from approximately 3000 g/mol to 200 000 g/mol and preferably from approximately 5000 g/mol to 100 000 g/mol.
  • the copolymer used in the composition of the invention may be in its native form or in dispersed form in a solvent such as lower alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance isopropyl alcohol, or oils, for instance volatile silicone oils (for example cyclopentasiloxane).
  • a solvent such as lower alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance isopropyl alcohol, or oils, for instance volatile silicone oils (for example cyclopentasiloxane).
  • KP561 is preferably used; this copolymer is not dispersed in a solvent, but is in waxy form, its melting point being about 30°C.
  • composition (M) comprises at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, notably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, and preferably ethylcellulose.
  • the alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain constituted of ⁇ -anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds.
  • Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + R’Cl ROR’ + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical and R’ represents a C 2 -C 6 alkyl radical.
  • the alkylcellulose may be chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, and preferably ethylcellulose.
  • the ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferentially polymers with a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to 50%.
  • the alkylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is more particularly found in powdered form.
  • Ethocel Standard from Dow Chemicals, notably including Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium.
  • Other commercially available products such as those sold by Ashland, Inc. under the trade names Aqualon Ethylcellulose type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for performing the invention.
  • composition (M) comprises at least one film-forming polymer chosen from the compounds having the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates/dimethicone, acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, ethylcellulose, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one silicone film-forming polymer.
  • composition (M) comprises any, the content of film-forming polymer(s) advantageously ranges between 0.1% and 50% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (M).
  • Composition (M) comprises at least one oil and optionally at least one dyestuff chosen from those defined previously.
  • Composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product, such as organic solvents; hydrophilic and lipophilic thickeners; fillers; additional moisturizers (also known as humectants); salts (magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride); cosmetic active agents such as vitamins, solar UV-screening agents, moisturizers or antioxidants.
  • ingredients commonly used in this type of product such as organic solvents; hydrophilic and lipophilic thickeners; fillers; additional moisturizers (also known as humectants); salts (magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride); cosmetic active agents such as vitamins, solar UV-screening agents, moisturizers or antioxidants.
  • Composition (M) in accordance with the invention may be a product, notably a makeup or care product, or else a hybrid product (in other words a product with a makeup and care action).
  • Composition (M) is more particularly a product intended to be applied to the lips, notably lipstick, lip gloss and lip balm.
  • compositions (M) for the lips may advantageously be in fluid (gloss) to solid (wand) form.
  • fluid (or liquid) notably refers to a composition that is not solid at 25°C, and whose viscosity it is possible to measure.
  • solid notably refers to a composition whose hardness can be measured by the “cheese wire” method at 20°C.
  • composition (M) is not in the form of a wand. It is advantageously in fluid or pasty form, and preferably in fluid form.
  • the viscosity measurement is generally performed at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2, 3 or 4 spindle, according to the recommendations for use, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition, at a speed of 200 revolutions/min.
  • the composition may have a viscosity of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s at 25°C.
  • composition in wand form is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.
  • the measurement is taken at 20°C and consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 ⁇ m in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.
  • the hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine sold by the company Indelco-Chatillon.
  • the measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.
  • the average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).
  • the composition may have a hardness of between 20 and 200 Nm -1 .
  • Composition (M) comprises at least one oil and optionally at least one dyestuff chosen from those defined previously.
  • Composition (M) in accordance with the invention may be a product, notably a makeup or care product, or else a hybrid product (in other words a product with a makeup and care action).
  • Composition (M) is more particularly a product intended to be applied to the lips, notably lipstick, lip gloss and lip balm.
  • compositions (M) for the lips may advantageously be in fluid (gloss) to solid (wand) form.
  • fluid (or liquid) notably refers to a composition that is not solid at 25°C, and whose viscosity it is possible to measure.
  • solid notably refers to a composition whose hardness can be measured by the “cheese wire” method at 20°C.
  • the composition may have a viscosity at 25°C of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s, measured according to the protocol detailed previously.
  • composition (M) is solid.
  • the composition may have a hardness of between 20 and 200 Nm -1 , measured according to the protocol detailed previously.
  • composition (M) comprises at least one oil.
  • composition (M) comprises at least one non-volatile oil, which is preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil. Even more particularly, composition (M) comprises at least one polar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil, of ester type.
  • fatty acid triglycerides notably caprylic acid or capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof, plant oils; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol; esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the oil content may notably range from 10% to 80% by weight, notably from 20% to 75% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • Composition (M) may optionally comprise at least one wax. Again, reference may be made to the description detailed previously.
  • the content of this type of ingredient varies according to the presentation form of composition (M).
  • the wax content if this type of ingredient is present in said composition, ranges from 0.01% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • Composition (M) may also comprise at least one pasty compound, as described previously.
  • composition (M) comprises at least one pasty compound, their content ranges from 0.5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product, such as organic solvents; thickeners; silicone or non-silicone film-forming polymers, notably as previously described; fillers; cosmetic active agents such as vitamins, solar UV-screening agents, moisturizers or antioxidants.
  • ingredients commonly used in this type of product such as organic solvents; thickeners; silicone or non-silicone film-forming polymers, notably as previously described; fillers; cosmetic active agents such as vitamins, solar UV-screening agents, moisturizers or antioxidants.
  • compositions (A), (B), (C), (D) and/or (M) according to the invention may each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment that comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing member.
  • the container may be in any suitable form. It may notably be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar or a case.
  • the closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid or a cover, notably of the type including a body fixed to the container and a cap articulated on the body. It may also be in the form of a member for selectively closing the container, notably a pump, a valve or a flap valve.
  • the container may be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described, for example, in patent FR 2 722 380), in the form of a deformable or undeformable element, made of foam or elastomer, and flocked or not flocked.
  • the applicator may also be free (sponge) or securely fastened to a rod borne by the closing member, as described, for example, in patent US 5 492 426.
  • the applicator may be securely fastened to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959.
  • the product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
  • the closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing.
  • the coupling between the closing member and the container occurs other than by screwing, notably via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by gripping.
  • click-fastening in particular means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, notably of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of said portion after the bead or cord has been crossed.
  • the container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material.
  • thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene and polyethylene.
  • the container may have rigid or deformable walls, notably in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.
  • the container may comprise means intended to bring about or facilitate the dispensing of the composition.
  • the container may have deformable walls so as to make the composition exit in response to excess pressure inside the container, which excess pressure is brought about by the elastic (or non-elastic) squeezing of the walls of the container.
  • the container may be equipped with a drainer positioned in the vicinity of the opening of the container.
  • a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be securely fastened.
  • Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
  • the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
  • composition weight% Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 15 Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate (Sunsoft Q-102H-C - Taiyo Kagaku) 5 Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Tegosoft PC 41 - Evonik Goldschmidt) 5 Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate (Sunsoft A-121E-C - Taiyo Kagaku) 5 Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 OR – Sensient) 10 Ethanol qs 100
  • Preparation process Without heating, mix the tannic acid and the ethanol with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Next, introduce the polyglycerolated compounds once the tannic acid has dissolved. Sprinkle in the Red 7 pigment and leave stirring for 15 minutes.
  • the mixture obtained is not stable over time: it undergoes phase separation, but by simple manual shaking, the pigments are redispersed and the formula remains homogeneous for the time of the makeup application.
  • the formula is applied very easily with a dipping applicator, making it possible to obtain a very thin film on the lips, with an intense, homogeneous colour.
  • the deposit lasts for a long time while at the same time being comfortable.
  • composition was evaluated in a test of resistance to mechanical stress and chemical attack: dry rubbing, water and oil.
  • the deposit comprises at least one dyestuff with a sufficiently intense colour (for example a red dyestuff, notably such as Red 7).
  • compositions are compared, they have the same colour (same amount and same dyestuff).
  • composition (M) below was prepared:
  • Preparation method Except for the tocopherol, mix all the ingredients using a Rayneri blender with heating at 98°C for 20 minutes until the mixture is melted and homogeneous. Add the tocopherol and pour into a lipstick mould. When the composition is solid, remove from the mould and package.
  • Example 1 The composition 1 of Example 1 is applied. It is applied very easily with a dipping applicator, making it possible to obtain a very thin film on the lips, with an intense, homogeneous colour.
  • composition (M) is applied over it.
  • the assembly does not transfer (for example, kiss test on the hand).
  • the resulting deposit was evaluated in a test of resistance to mechanical stress and chemical attack: dry rubbing, water and oil, as described in Example 1.
  • composition Composition 2 weight% Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 5 Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate (Sunsoft Q-102H-C - Taiyo Kagaku) 7.5 Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 OR – Sensient) 10 Ethanol qs 100
  • Preparation method Without heating, mix the tannic acid and the ethanol with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Next, introduce the polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate once the tannic acid has dissolved. Sprinkle in the Red 7 pigment and leave stirring for 15 minutes.
  • the mixture obtained is not stable over time: it undergoes phase separation, but by simple manual shaking, the pigments are redispersed and the formula remains homogeneous for the time of the makeup application.
  • the formula is applied very easily with a dipping applicator, making it possible to obtain a very thin film on the lips, with an intense, homogeneous colour.
  • the deposit lasts for a long time while at the same time being comfortable.
  • the composition does not transfer (for example, kiss test on the hand).

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de maquillage de la peau et/ou des lèvres, qui consiste à 1) appliquer sur la peau et/ou les lèvres un agent de revêtement formé in situ ou au préalable par interaction par liaison hydrogène d'au moins un polyphénol X comprenant au moins deux groupes phénol différents avec au moins un composé Y qui est capable de former au moins deux liaisons hydrogène avec lesdits groupes phénol du polyphénol X, choisi parmi les esters de polyglycérol comprenant 2 à 20 unités glycérol ; la première étape ayant lieu en présence d'au moins un colorant ; 2) appliquer une composition (M) comprenant au moins une huile sur la peau et/ou les lèvres ainsi traitées. L'invention concerne une composition comprenant a) au moins un polyphénol X et b) au moins un composé Y tel que décrit, c) au moins 25 % en poids d'au moins un monoalcool en C2-C8, e) au moins un colorant. L'invention concerne également un procédé de maquillage et/ou de soin consistant à appliquer ladite composition sur la peau et/ou les lèvres, ainsi qu'un procédé en deux étapes dans lequel on applique ensuite une composition (M) comprenant au moins une huile.
PCT/EP2023/060572 2022-04-28 2023-04-24 Procédés de maquillage utilisant un polyphénol et au moins un composé de polyglycérol, et compositions pour la mise en œuvre du procédé WO2023208802A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (8)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2204040A FR3134977A1 (fr) 2022-04-28 2022-04-28 Procédé de maquillage à partir d’un polyphénol et au moins deux composés polyglycérolés, compositions pour la mise en œuvre du procédé
FR2204038A FR3134986A1 (fr) 2022-04-28 2022-04-28 Composition de maquillage comprenant un polyphénol, un ester de polyglycérol, au moins une matière colorante, un mono-alcool et une teneur limitée en eau, et procédé la mettant en œuvre
FRFR2204041 2022-04-28
FR2204041A FR3134981A1 (fr) 2022-04-28 2022-04-28 Procédé de maquillage avec l’application d’une composition comprenant un polyphénol et un composé polyglycérolé, et une matière colorante puis application d’une composition anhydre
FR2204042A FR3134988A1 (fr) 2022-04-28 2022-04-28 Procédé de maquillage avec l’application d’une composition comprenant un polyphénol et un composé polyoxyalkyléné et/ou polyglycérolé, et une matière colorante puis application d’une composition anhydre
FRFR2204040 2022-04-28
FRFR2204038 2022-04-28
FRFR2204042 2022-04-28

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