WO2019051635A1 - Composition anhydre solide et son utilisation - Google Patents

Composition anhydre solide et son utilisation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019051635A1
WO2019051635A1 PCT/CN2017/101360 CN2017101360W WO2019051635A1 WO 2019051635 A1 WO2019051635 A1 WO 2019051635A1 CN 2017101360 W CN2017101360 W CN 2017101360W WO 2019051635 A1 WO2019051635 A1 WO 2019051635A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
wax
weight
mixture
composition
composition according
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Application number
PCT/CN2017/101360
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English (en)
Inventor
Chunyan LEI
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to CN201780096485.0A priority Critical patent/CN111278424A/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2017/101360 priority patent/WO2019051635A1/fr
Publication of WO2019051635A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019051635A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8117—Homopolymers or copolymers of aromatic olefines, e.g. polystyrene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62—Coated
    • A61K2800/623—Coating mediated by organosilicone compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and especially to compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. Further, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method involving use of same compositions.
  • compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials′′ according to the present invention is understood to mean compositions different from rinse-off cleansing compositions.
  • Compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips generally contain one or more fatty substances and are structured with a ′′structuring′′ or ′′gelling′′ agent, conventionally a wax or a polymer, to improve the stiffness of the compositions and especially to obtain solid compositions, preferably in the form of sticks. These solid compositions remain stable and in particular do not exude, especially at room temperature.
  • compositions which has very good sensory, for example, moisturizing while not draggy sensory.
  • compositions which has good wear of color.
  • compositions which integrate all of the benefits described in the preceding aspects.
  • the present inventors have discovered that a specific combination of a) at least one wax with a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C, b) at least one wax different from a) , of solid linear ester derived from C 6 -C 30 fatty acid, c) at least one nonvolatile oil, d) at least one film forming polymer selected from i) at least one C 2 -C 6 carboxylic acid ester of sucrose, ii) at least one film-forming silicone resin, or iii) a mixture thereof, and e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle may satisfy one or more of the abovementioned requirements.
  • Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably the skin and/or the lips, comprising the step of applying to the keratin materials the composition as described above.
  • the term ′′at least one′′ means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixture/combinations.
  • the term ′′about′′ as used herein means within 10%of the indicated number (e.g. ′′about 10%′′ means 9%-11%and ′′about 2%′′ means 1.8%-2.2%) .
  • ′′solid′′ means a composition which the hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm -1 when it is measured according to the protocol described below.
  • composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring.
  • the hardness may be measured at 20°C via the “cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 ⁇ m in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.
  • compositions of the present invention expressed in Nm -1 , is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.
  • the measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.
  • the average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into Newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres) .
  • the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.
  • the composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of greater than or equal to 40 Nm -1 and preferably greater than 50 Nm -1 .
  • the composition according to the present invention especially has a hardness at 20°C of less than 500 Nm -1 , especially less than 400 Nm -1 and preferably less than 300 Nm -1 .
  • these compositions have a shear value ranging from 80 to 160 and preferably from 100 to 140 gF.
  • these compositions may be formulated in standard packaging that does not require any composition support means.
  • the term ′′anhydrous′′ means a composition containing less than 2%and preferably less than 0.5%by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided.
  • the “keratin material” is the skin and the lips.
  • skin we intend to mean all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the lips.
  • ′′INCI′′ is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
  • wear refers to the extent by which the color of the composition remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as viewed by the naked eye, after a certain period or an extended period of time.
  • Wear properties may be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, wear may be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to human lips and evaluating the color of the composition after a specified period of time. For example, the color of a composition may be evaluated immediately following application to skin or lips and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a certain amount of time. Further, these characteristics may be evaluated with respect to other compositions, suchas commercially available compositions.
  • the composition comprises at least one wax with a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C.
  • the wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C) , with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 60°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the wax a) according to the present invention may be of natural origin, for instance plant origin, animal origin, or mineral origin. It may also be of synthetic origin, or a mixture thereof.
  • waxes of natural origin for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax, montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, ozokerite, and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil;
  • waxes of synthetic origin such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax, polyethylene waxes, which is derived from the polymerization of ethylene; the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis (Fischer-Tropsch waxes) and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof; fatty acids or esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains, preferably C 16 to C 18 chains; silicone waxes; fluoro waxes; or a mixture thereof.
  • synthetic origin such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax, polyethylene waxes, which is derived from the polymerization of ethylene; the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis (Fischer-Tropsch waxes) and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof; fatty acids or esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains, preferably C 16 to C 18 chains;
  • the wax a) of the present invention is selected from those of synthetic origin.
  • Mentions may be made of polyethylene waxes which, for example, those sold under the tradename Performalene 500-L Polyethylene by the company New Phase Technologies.
  • waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis or Fischer-Tropsch waxes can be mentioned are those synthetic wax sold under the tradename Cirebelle 108 by the company Cirebelle (Technical name: Paraffin wax) , for example.
  • fatty acids obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains, preferably C 16 to C 18 chains.
  • fatty acids used in the current invention are commercially available under the trade names, for example, AEC Stearic Acid sold by A & E Connock (Perfumery &Cosmetics) Ltd., Emersol sold by Emery Oleochemical LLC, Palmitic Acid PC sold by Protameen Chemicals, Inc.
  • waxes for example those obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin and by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.
  • Mentions may be made of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C 12 to C 18 chain fatty alcohols such as those sold by the company SOPHIM under the brand names Phytowax Olive 12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57.
  • silicone waxes such as C 30 - 45 alkyl dimethicone; and fluoro waxes.
  • the wax a) of the present invention is selected from polyethylene waxes, beeswaxes, or a mixture thereof.
  • a composition of the present invention may comprise from 1%to 20%by weight, and preferably from 2%to 15%by weight of wax (es) a) , relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one wax of solid linear ester derived from C 6 -C 30 fatty acid, which is different from the wax a) as described above, to provide good sensory, e.g. moisturizing sensory without draggy.
  • fatty acids mentioned above are caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, and cerotic acid, saturated or unsaturated.
  • the solid linear esters contain in total from 25 to 36 carbon atoms and have melting points of between 38°C and 60°C.
  • a linear ester is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid crystalline form at room temperature.
  • the solid linear esters that are suitable for use in the present invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising stearyl stearate, tetradecyl tetradecanoate (INCI name: myristyl myristate) , cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate and cetyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
  • stearyl stearate tetradecyl tetradecanoate
  • stearyl stearate that is most particularly suitable for use in the present invention, use may be made, for example, of the product sold under the name SS sold by the company Lipo Chemicals.
  • the wax b) according to the present invention is solid linear ester derived from C 10 -C 22 fatty acid, and containing from 25 to 36 carbon atoms.
  • the wax b) according to the present invention is solid linear ester derived from C 12 -C 20 fatty acid, and containing from 28 to 36 carbon atoms.
  • solid linear ester derived from C 12 -C 20 fatty acid, and containing from 28 to 36 carbon atoms.
  • myristyl/cetyl/stearyl myristate/palmitate/stearate (INCI name: cetyl palmitate)
  • OLEM myristyl/cetyl/stearyl myristate/palmitate/stearate
  • Cutina Cutina sold by the company BASF
  • Ercawax CP Ercawax CP V/O sold by the company ERCA
  • Paester 9104 sold by the company Patech Fine Chemicals.
  • the wax b) of the present invention is selected from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, or a mixture thereof, more preferably cetyl palmitate.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises a content of solid linear or ester (s) ranging from 0.5%to 20%by weight, preferably from 1%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the wax a) to b) is from 0.05 to 5.
  • the weight ratio of the wax a) to b) is from 0.5 to 4.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one nonvolatile oil.
  • oil it differs from the waxes as described above, in that the oils are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 5 Pa or 760 mmHg) .
  • nonvolatile oil means an oil that remains on keratin materials, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
  • a nonvolatile oil may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm 2 .
  • the oil may be chosen from polar oils, apolar oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • polar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ a, is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polar nonvolatile oil, chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, fiuoro oils, silicone oils, or a mixture thereof.
  • polar nonvolatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, fiuoro oils, silicone oils, or a mixture thereof.
  • ′′silicone oil′′ means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-O groups.
  • ′′fiuoro oil′′ means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the composition comprises nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil (s) .
  • the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
  • the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, and branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
  • the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.
  • fatty alcohols that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin, for example alcohols derived from plant material (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc. ) or animal material (tallow, etc. ) .
  • alcohols of natural origin for instance coconut (C 12 to C 16 ) or tallow (C 16 to C 18 ) or compounds of diol or cholesterol type.
  • Use is preferably made of a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • fatty alcohols that may preferably be used, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol, such as the product sold under the tradename Eutanol by the company BASF.
  • hydroxylated diesters of a C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate,
  • hydroxylated triesters of a C 2 -C 8 tricarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate or tributyl citrate,
  • esters of a C 2 -C 8 polyol and of one or more C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acids such as glycol diesters of monoacids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters of monoacids, such as triacetin.
  • ester oils in particular containing at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly between 18 and 70 carbon atoms.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters or triesters.
  • the ester oils may be hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated.
  • the non-volatile ester oil may for example be chosen from:
  • R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of the radicals R 1 and R 2 is greater than or equal to 18, for instance Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearic oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alky
  • esters of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R 1 and R 2 being such that the sum of the carbon atoms of the radicals R 1 and R 2 is greater than or equal to 18.
  • the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
  • Preferred monoesters include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate;
  • monoesters of a fatty acid in particular containing at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, and of diols, for instance propylene glycol monoisostearate.
  • diesters especially containing at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total and in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total.
  • diesters of a dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols preferably such as diisostearyl malate, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Akzo) ;
  • hydroxylated monoesters and diesters preferably with a total carbon number of at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly ranging from 18 to 70, for instance polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or glyceryl stearate;
  • triesters especially containing at least 35 carbon atoms and even more particularly comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triesters of a tricarboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;
  • a tricarboxylic acid such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate
  • glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate
  • tetraesters especially containing at least 35 carbon atoms and even more particularly with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris (2-decyl) tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate;
  • pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
  • polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1, 4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) , or else copolymers of polyols and of dimer diacids, and esters thereof, such as Hailucent ISDA;
  • esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid and esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid especially of C 8 to C 34 , especially of C 12 to C 22 , in particular of C 16 to C 20 and more particularly of C 18 , such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for instance those sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan and
  • hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (which are liquid at room temperature) , especially of fatty acids containing at least 7 carbon atoms and even more particularly containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; mention may be made in particular of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglycerides and mixtures thereof, for example such as the product sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and C 18-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference Dub TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois, and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil or pracaxi oil;
  • - C 12 -C 26 fatty acids preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, which are preferably unsaturated, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • the hydrocarbon-based polar oil according to the present invention is selected from the group consisting of C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, ester oils, in particular containing at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly between 18 and 70 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof.
  • the hydrocarbon-based polar oil of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of C 12 -C 22 alcohols, diesters especially containing at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, or a mixture thereof.
  • the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil is selected from the group consisting of diisostearyl malate (for instance the compound sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade name Schercemol TM Dism Ester) , octyldodecanol (for instance G from the ABSF company) , or a mixture thereof.
  • apolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ a, is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • ⁇ a ( ⁇ p 2 + ⁇ h 2 ) 1/2 .
  • nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is apolar
  • the compound is then free of oxygen, nitrogen atom (s) .
  • nonvolatile apolar oil is nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil.
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as, for instance:
  • the nonvolatile oil of the present invention is polybutene.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one nonvolatile oil selected from the group consisting of nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils, hydrocarbon-based apolar oils, or a mixture thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one nonvolatile oil selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon-based mono-or di-esters of the carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and the alcohol residue represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, polybutenes, or a mixture thereof.
  • the nonvolatile oil is selected from diisostearyl malate, polybutenes, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one nonvolatile oil is present in an amount ranging from 3%to 80%by weight, preferably from 5%to 60%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may optionally comprise at least one volatile oil as additional oil.
  • Such a volatile oil may especially be a hydrocarbon-based oil or a silicone oil.
  • volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile organic solvent (s) and volatile oils of the present invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, with a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg) , in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) , and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .
  • oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • volatile oils that may be mentioned include volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and especially volatile hydrocarbon-based oils with a flash point of less than or equal to 80°C (the flash point is in particular measured according to ISO Standard 3679) , such as hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and especially:
  • C 8 -C 14 alkanes for instance C 8 -C 14 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl,
  • ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone
  • short-chain esters (containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate
  • ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether
  • the composition comprises less than 5%and better still less than 2%by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free of volatile oil.
  • film forming polymer′′ as used herein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film forming polymer has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated on the substrate.
  • the at least one film forming polymer is selected from i) at least one C 2 -C 6 carboxylic acid ester of sucrose, ii) at least one film-forming silicone resin, or iii) a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one film forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 20%by weight, preferably from 5%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the present invention comprises at least one C 2 -C 6 carboxylic acid ester of sucrose, to improve wear of color.
  • this C 2 -C 6 carboxylic acid ester of sucrose is chosen from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, and in particular sucrose diacetate hexakis (2-methylpropanoate) , such as the product sold under the name Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher by the company Eastman Chemical (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate) .
  • a composition of the present invention may comprise from 1%to 15%by weight and preferably from 3%to 10%by weight of the at least one C 2 -C 6 carboxylic acid ester (s) of sucrose, if used alone or as a part of the at least one film forming polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one C 2 -C 6 carboxylic acid ester of sucrose is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 20%by weight, preferably from 5%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming silicone resin.
  • This or these film-forming silicone resin (s) makes/make it possible to improve the staying power and to obtain all the surprising effects mentioned above.
  • the word ′′resin′′ denotes a three-dimensional structure.
  • the at least one film-forming silicone resin used in the compositions of the invention can be any silicone resin which has film-forming properties.
  • the film-forming silicone resin is chosen from among the silsesquioxanes, the siloxysilicates and the resins obtained by hydroxysililation.
  • silicone polymers or derivatives thereof as film-forming agents in cosmetic compositions is known in the art: see for example, the patents US-A-5,965,112, US-A-5,800,816, US-A-5,911,974 and US-A-5,959,009. Nonetheless, the combination of such resins with the special polymers according to the invention is neither described nor suggested in the prior art. None led one to imagine, in consideration of the prior art, that such a combination could result in a surprising improvement in the properties, especially of staying power and possibly of non-transfer, in a deposit obtained from a cosmetic composition comprising this combination.
  • silicone resins also called siloxane resins
  • ′′MDTQ′′ siloxane resins
  • the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units which it comprises, each ′′MDTQ′′ characterizing a type of unit.
  • the letter ′′M′′ represents the monofunctional unit of formula R1R2R3SiO 1/2 , the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
  • the letter ′′D′′ means a difunctional unit R1R2SiO 2/2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms.
  • the letter ′′T′′ represents a trifunctional unit of formula R1 SiO 3/2 .
  • R represents a hydrocarbon (especially alkyl) radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or else a hydroxyl group.
  • the letter ′′Q′′ means a tetrafunctional SiO 4/2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
  • silicone resins which can be used in the first composition according to the invention of silicone resins of the MQ type, of the T type or of the MQT type.
  • an MQ resin is used.
  • MQ type silicone resins of the alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [ (R1) 3 SiO 1/2 ] x (SiO 4/2 ) y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.
  • silicone resins of MQ type of trimethylsiloxysilicate type mention may be made of those sold under the reference 1000 by the company Momentive Material, under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312J by the company Shin -Etsu, or DC 749, DC 593 by the company Dow Corning.
  • silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units
  • phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 marketed by General Electric) .
  • the preparation of such resins is described in particular in US Pat. No. 5,817,302.
  • silicone resins of type T By way of example of silicone resins of type T, mention may be made of polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO 3/2 ) x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes may further comprise Si-OH end groups.
  • the polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group can be used, such as, for example, those marketed:
  • Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH 3 SiO 3/2 (T units) , also comprising up to 1%by weight of (CH 3 ) 2 SiO 2/2 units Units D) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000 g /mol, or
  • KR 220L which are composed of units T of formula CH 3 SiO 3/2 and have SiOH (silanol) terminal groups
  • KR-242A which comprise 98%of units T and 2%dimethyl units D and have terminal Si-OH groups
  • KR 251 comprising 88%T units and 12%dimethyl units D and have Si-OH end groups.
  • MQT resins are MQT-propyl resins (also referred to as MQTPr) .
  • MQTPr MQT-propyl resins
  • the MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units:
  • R1, R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or else a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,
  • a being between 0.05 and 0.5
  • d being between 0.05 and 0.6
  • the siloxane resin comprises the following units:
  • R1 and R3 independently represent an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group,
  • a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,
  • c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,
  • d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55,
  • siloxane resins usable in the composition according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising reacting:
  • an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol%of (R1 3 SiO 1/2 ) a and (SiO 4/2 ) d .
  • R1 representing an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group
  • the ratio a/d being between 0.5 and 1.5;
  • R3 representing an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group
  • mass ratio A/B is between 95 ⁇ 5 and 15 ⁇ 85, preferably the mass ratio A/B is 30 ⁇ 70.
  • the weight ratio A/B is between 95 ⁇ 5 and 15 ⁇ 85.
  • the A/B ratio is less than or equal to 70 ⁇ 30.
  • the silicone resin is chosen from the group comprising:
  • an MQ type resin especially chosen from (i) alkyl siloxysilicates, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates, of formula [ (R1) 3 SiO 1/2 ] x (SiO 4/2 ) y , in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80 and such that the group R1 represents a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, and is preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 8 atoms, and more preferably, methyl group, and (ii) phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, and/or
  • T-type resin in particular chosen from polysilsesquixanes of formula (RSiO 3/2 ) x , in which x is greater than 100 and the group R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example a methyl, said polysilsesquioxanes may further comprise Si-OH end groups, and/or
  • an MQT type resin in particular of the MQT-propyl type, which may comprise units (i) (R1 3 SiO 1/2 ) a , (ii) (R2 2 SiO 2/2 ) b , (iii) (R3SiO 3/2 ) c et (iv) SiO 4/2 ) d ,
  • R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkyl radical having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or else a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,
  • a being between 0.05 and 0.5
  • d being between 0.05 and 0.6
  • the film-forming silicone resin is an MQ resin, especially chosen from (i) alkyl siloxysilicates as disclosed above.
  • the at least one film-forming silicone resin is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 20%by weight, preferably from 5%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention includes at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle.
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S M ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D [0.5] ) ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ m, better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ m, preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ m, in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ m, more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ m, better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • S M specific surface area per unit of mass
  • D [0.5] volume-mean diameter
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume-mean diameter (D [0.5] ) ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ m, preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ m, better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • D [0.5] volume-mean diameter
  • the specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D) .
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an ′′effective′′ particle diameter.
  • This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., ′′Light Scattering by Small Particles′′ , Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S M ) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D [0.5] ) ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density ⁇ ranging from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 , preferably from 0.03 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 and in particular from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density may be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the tapped density protocol:
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume S V ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • S V S M ⁇ ⁇ where ⁇ is the tapped density expressed in g/cm 3 and S M is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m 2 /g, as defined above.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the present invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
  • the absorption capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • the aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate) .
  • ′′hydrophobic′′ means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the present invention
  • an example that may be mentioned is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • Aerogel TLD 201 Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Aerogel MT 1100 and Aerogel MT 1200.
  • VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) , by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 0.01%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the solid anhydrous composition especially for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprises from 1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 2%to 15%by weight, of at least one wax a) selected from polyethylene waxes, beeswaxes, or a mixture thereof, from 0.5%to 20%by weight, preferably from 1%to 10%by weight, of cetyl palmitate, from 3%to 80%by weight, preferably from 5%to 60%by weight, of at least one nonvolatile oil selected from diisostearyl malate, polybutenes, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate or a mixture thereof, from 0.01%to 20%by weight, preferably from 5%to 15%by weight, of at least one film forming polymer selected from sucrose acetate isobutyrate, trimethylsiloxysilicate, or a mixture thereof, from 0.01%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.
  • a composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one dyestuff, in particular at least one pulverulent dyestuff.
  • the dyestuff according to the present invention are distinct from fillers.
  • the dyestuff is especially chosen from organic or mineral dyestuffs, especially such as the pigments or nacres conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with a specific optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pulverulent dyestuffs are in particular chosen from organic or mineral pulverulent dyestuffs, especially of pigment or nacre type, materials with a specific optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pulverulent dyestuffs are chosen from pigments and nacres, and mixtures thereof.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and which are intended to color and/or opacify the corresponding composition.
  • dyestuffs that may be mentioned more particularly include mineral pigments such as titanium oxides and iron oxides, water-soluble or liposoluble coloring agents, for instance Sudan red, ⁇ -carotene, beetroot juice, the disodium salt of ponceau, the disodium salt of alizarine green, quinoline yellow, DC Red No. 7, DC Green No. 6, DC Yellow No. 11, DC Violet No. 2, DC Orange No.
  • mineral pigments such as titanium oxides and iron oxides
  • water-soluble or liposoluble coloring agents for instance Sudan red, ⁇ -carotene, beetroot juice, the disodium salt of ponceau, the disodium salt of alizarine green, quinoline yellow, DC Red No. 7, DC Green No. 6, DC Yellow No. 11, DC Violet No. 2, DC Orange No.
  • suitable pigments include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pearlescent pigments, irridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof. Said pigments may optionally be surface-treated within the scope of the present invention but are not limited to treatments such as silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.
  • inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, coded in the Color Index under the reference CI 77, 891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, coded under references CI 77, 499, 77, 492 and, 77, 491; manganese violet (CI 77, 742) ; ultramarine blue (CI 77, 007) ; chromium oxide (CI 77, 288) ; chromium hydrate (CI 77, 289) ; and ferric blue (CI 77, 510) and mixtures thereof.
  • organic pigments and lakes useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, D&C Red No. 19 (CI 45, 170) , D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15, 585) , D&C Red No. 21 (CI 45, 380) , D&C Orange No. 4 (CI 15, 510) , D&C Orange No. 5 (CI 45, 370) , D&C Red No. 27 (CI 45, 410) , D&C Red No. 13 (CI 15, 630) , D&C Red No. 7 (CI 15, 850) , D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15, 850) , D&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19, 140) , D&C Red No. 36 (CI 12, 085) , D&C Orange No.
  • pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of the white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.
  • white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions of the present invention will depend on the color, intensity and use of the cosmetic composition and, as a result, will be determined by those skilled in the art of cosmetic formulation.
  • the at least one dyestuff is present in the present composition in an amount effective to impart color when applied onto keratinous substrates.
  • a composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one compound chosen from, hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents and oils different from the nonvolatile oils cited before, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition according to the present invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, fillers, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, colorants, and mixtures thereof.
  • any additive usually used in the field under consideration chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, fillers, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, colorants, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skin care, make up or cosmetic treatment product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of makeup product such as lip balm, lip stick, lip gloss, and so on.
  • composition of the present invention is solid.
  • definition of “solid” is described above.
  • composition of the present invention is anhydrous, which is also defined above.
  • compositions that are more particularly under consideration according to the present invention are solid and are in the form of cast products, obtained by hot-casting in a mould, and cooling to room temperature via a phenomenon of setting to a solid or via a cooling tunnel according to the industrially available tools, which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • compositions according to the present invention in the form of a cast product are endowed with satisfactory properties in terms of sensory, in particular, no oily feeling, and they are such that they give the user a very good spreading during application, and meanwhile does not break when using at a high temperature, such as 37°C.
  • the cast product of the composition of the present invention has an improved aesthetic appearance after long time storage.
  • composition of the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose its method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, the application envisaged for the composition.
  • the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably the skin and/or the lips, comprising the step of applying to the keratin materials the composition according to the present invention.
  • compositions/formulas described below are expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
  • Comparative formula A does not contain a wax b) , e.g. CETYL PALMITATE, of the present invention.
  • Comparative formulas B to D replace the film forming polymer of the present invention with other polymers.
  • Moisturizing feel was evaluated by 6 panelists, by applying each of the formulas listed above to the lips, and comments were given by the panelists.
  • the Invention formulas A to C were also stored for 2 months at the temperatures of 4°C, 20°C, and 37°C. All of the formulas are stable after 2 months of storage. Besides, none of them exudes.

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Abstract

Une composition anhydre solide, en particulier pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de matières kératiniques, comprend a) au moins une cire ayant un point de fusion supérieur ou égal à 60 °C, b) au moins une cire différente de a), d'un ester linéaire solide dérivé d'un acide gras en C6-C30, c) au moins une huile non volatile, d) au moins un polymère filmogène choisi parmi i) au moins un ester d'acide carboxylique en C2-C6 du sucrose, ii) au moins une résine de silicone filmogène, ou iii) un mélange de ceux-ci, et e) au moins une particule d'aérogel de silice hydrophobe. La composition anhydre solide présente une couleur de résistance à l'usure améliorée et une sensation d'hydratation améliorée.
PCT/CN2017/101360 2017-09-12 2017-09-12 Composition anhydre solide et son utilisation WO2019051635A1 (fr)

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WO2021081859A1 (fr) * 2019-10-31 2021-05-06 L'oreal Composition anhydre solide servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques
CN113613620A (zh) * 2019-03-29 2021-11-05 欧莱雅 无水防晒组合物、制备无水防晒组合物的方法以及无水防晒组合物的用途

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